"Stupid Strong" CNC Build - PART 2 - Z AXIS COMPONENTS
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- How to build a DIY CNC machine completely from scratch. I designed the machine in Fusion 360 from the ground up and had a local water jet cut the parts.
The frame is built from 1/2" aluminum plate. Fully supported linear rails reduce the flex and NEMA 23 stepper motors drive the anti-backlash ball screws for the best possible performance on a budget. I used a TinyG motor controller in this project.
In this episode I put together the Z Axis rails and ball screw and finally get to see how the machine with look assembled.
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Bill of materials for this machine (Affiliate Links):
Total Price - $1,255.47
Aluminum Frame Local Shop ($520):
1/2" Aluminum Plate
Stepper Motors ($66.00):
amzn.to/2i6lN8B
ebay.to/2Br5FX6
Motor Controller ($129):
synthetos.mysh...
Z Axis Linear Rails ($41.40):
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ebay.to/2iv0PEy
X and Y Axis Linear Rails and Ball Screw Kit ($218.96):
amzn.to/2j69yKl
ebay.to/2j79CJD
Z Axis Ball Screw ($37.99):
amzn.to/2zU9Nm6 (Doesn't include supports or coupler)
ebay.to/2AyFBN3
Longer X Axis Ball Screw ($29.36):
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ebay.to/2ANj8fx
Router Mount ($29.98):
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ebay.to/2AmtsrD
Small Drag Chain ($4.45):
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ebay.to/2zVFRpB
Big Drag Chain ($12.99):
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ebay.to/2i8tsU4
Wire ($21.95):
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ebay.to/2zUyGOm
Limit Switches ($11.59):
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ebay.to/2nlAjyM
Power Supply ($50):
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ebay.to/2zGuY6S
Nuts and Bolts Order Screenshot ($81.80):
bit.ly/2kepBca
The Router I Used:
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Transfer Punch Set:
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Your frustration in the captions when you kept on calling it an angle iron is hilarious
This is your own design, and clearly you have great enthusiasm, which I applaud. Every new design gets revisions, and ECOs ( engineering change orders ). This, and every project you do, will make you an even better mechanical engineer / machine designer.
Your foundation is beefy, so you can revise, and modify over time so all this time and money will not be wasted.
Just a couple of suggestions being suggested as constructive help, some for future projects:
1.) To drill / tap the holes on the edge of your plate, bolt your drill press to your work bench on a corner of your work bench, loosen the collar holding the headstock of your drill press ( make sure the safety ring is tight below it so it doesn't slam down to the base and hurt you ) , swing the headstock out over the side of you work bench, bolt your plates to a knee or angle , and start drilling and tapping. For tapping, leave the tap a little loose in the Jacobs chuck and just get it started straight, then hand tap to depth.
2.) Get an 82 degree counter sink and flat head allen screws to put everything together. Makes for a much more polished design and things won't get snagged on hardware. Or get a piloted counter bore, and machine counter bores to get your existing hardware below surface.
3.) Never grind the fillet out of angle stock. Reduces strength. It would be better to sand the corner off your bearing block for clearance.
I hope these three tips will help you with your current, and future projects.
Take care
Magic aluminum sparks at 1:51. Or your c clamp is lighter than it used to be. Good looking heavy design.
how not to build a precision machine
my thoughts exactly (CNC machinist by trade)
Neat project for the beginer however
yeah, c-beam xl seems like a perfect beginner machine. Then you can mill plates for a super strong cnc.
5:32 Spider coupling?? Lol. Clearly doesn't understand the concept of backlash.
He's bootstrapping. This machine can cut parts for a more precise machine. And the new more precise machine can cut parts for yet another machine... ad infinitum.
Maybe, we'll find out in a couple weeks.
5:01 That ball screw nut block is retained in place by the friction generated between it and the spindle mounting plate when the bolts are tightened so removing half the bolts and probably 80% of the nut holder with mean that it will move under load. Such a shame, all those expensive parts and materials could build a really cool machine, next time perhaps.
Some advice, don't grind aluminum, and you should have ground the bearings, not the angle alum, that radius greatly reduces the stress concentration in the material, bring it to a right angle greatly increases the chance of that part failing due to fatigue over time, even if you don't load it to yield.
Interesting, thanks.
Been machining for 30 years. This is a hack.................Precisely hand grind the precision bearing surface. LOL this is really funny.
It definitely is stupid... i imagine it is super squre, that angle grinder work looked really square. Love how you tested every part after your “precision” machining
Nice video. where did you buy your linear slides? and what size are they? Thank you.
Any reason for such a small machine? Seems a lot of effort for a tiny machine
I cringed so hard while watching parts of this. That's going to end up being a very expensive dust collector. Didn't you already have a CNC that someone sent you for free?
That machine sent to me is what inspired this build. I wanted something stronger than a hobby kit. I'm sure you disagree I've achieved that so far ;)
Stronger maybe, but square, accurate, and precise?...no
To anyone who does precision machine work or has any experience with machine design the amount of cringe in this video is almost unbearable...
A machinist told you should never grind aluminum with a grinding wheel because it can cause the grinding wheel to heat up and explode. You should always use a sanding disk or file. Otherwise looks good, excited to see it in action.
www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=27413
tl;dr: grinding Al is not the best option and it can be realy dangerous...
teorethicaly if your grinding disk is clean(of anything else other than Al), you make sure not to clog it, and threre're no other metal oxides/dust lying around. you can grind alum,
then again it's just better to use chip removal for a coarse work like the one shown and not risk a metalic fire/whatever else the ingestion of Al dust may cause...
A machinist once told me that you have to grind aluminum very carefully. He wasn't literally joking, but we were all having a bit of a joke with it.
It's probably waaaay too late to change this, but if you ever do any upgrades on this you'll want to add a solid plate to hold the top and bottom portions of the Z axis frame. Holding them together with the two linear rails and nothing else adds a weak point that can and will shift while machining anything softer than foam. Even something as simple as adding a 1/4 plate to the underside of the linear rails will do it, and just requires a few new fasteners just 1/4" longer to compensate for it.
Totally agree.
yep support those z axis rails
If I ever find the time, I'd like to build a CNC lathe from epoxy granite
Loving the design, can't wait to see it run!
Thanks for the encouragement!
Quanto ai speso per tutto?
you could have had 2 pieces of plate cut to make into a precision angle piece...
excellent title :) I'm just making a stupid weak cnc machine 850mmx850mmx300mm workspace with some of my ideas. Maybe it worked at the end :)~
Part two where stupid strong simplifies into merely stupid.
Hey Mike, how did you decide on the size? It's not a very big table. I have the xcarve and I've run into some size constraints and I think it's bigger than yours.
I intentionally built a small machine that will fit on a 24" bench in the mobile workshop.
lets remove the word "strong" from the title. and i didnt see the splindle yet... pretty sure its not going to be a 3kw elte or better.
Maybe after it's finished ;)
congratulations for your job! how did you cut aluminum?
Nob
i can hear music, that's what i hate in videos
I think you did a great job. CNC in the ruff! Go for it.
Why do your bearings have so much give?
May i know what tools you use to cut the aluminium plate?
LMFAO, looks like you will have a tolerance of about .150"...Everything is crooked, out of square, out of parallel, not sitting flush, we just threw any resemblance to "Precision" out the window. Gotta be the worst executed "stupid strong" CNC build on RUclips! But still a nice project though, and a nice try.
Sir you not mentioned dimensions of all parts in video could you help to get directions of part which you are used in
Dimensions
Not optimized but this isn't a "stupid" strong chassis because if you want to machine steel hss or titanium, you need a "stupid" strong chassis and a powerful spindle 😜
Slow down.
A lot of money for a very small machine. I hope you have a purpose for something so small. Why did you design something of this size?
small machine = more rigidity , i think
Purposefully this small so it fits on a 24" bench in our mobile workshop. You could double or triple the size for very little extra money.
Good job
Still trying to think of a reason why you overbuild it like that. I'm sure we will find out eventually. :D
Overbuilding is one of the hallmarks of amateur construction. They don't know what is sufficient, so they go overboard, and figure it is all good. An experienced person just does what they need to, and that's it.
I know your comment was intended to be an insult, but you are correct. This is my very first attempt at a machine like this, so I overbuilt for it's own sake. I didn't have the experience to know what the optimal frame thickness would be. Now I know I'd use 1/2" for things like the router plate, 3/8" for the frame, and 1/4" for supporting cross members.
Well - my comment was definitely nit intended as an insult. I suspect that the use will justify the material choices. That's why I'm looking forward to seeing the outcome. ;)
+ Mike and Lauren it is no insult. I was merely enunciating the obvious. Not for the first time either. As others have said the exact same thing innumerable times in the past. Though it still bears repeating today. Usually there is only an efficiency, and economic downside to doing it, but here there may be a performance penalty too. As you're going to have to move some of the extra mass you added to this machine. But if you throw even more money at it you can get around that too.
it may be strong, but not rigid. These Ball rails are sloppy as hell (at least for me because i work on industry machines)
strong and rigid correlate.
well strong is for example the motor and rigid is the base, at least thats what i thought
I guess strong in torque is one thing, but i was more like steel is a stronger material than alu. Thats my aim at it atleast
About the ball rails:
Yes, they're worse in every way compared to profiled rails...Exept one - cost. Profiled rails are so expensive and hard to set up that for beginners, the cheapo rails seem to be a good idea, at least to begin with.
Iron iron iron... sigh... lol
first comment and like!
Why am I watching this, I don't even know what a CNC is. But I want to support you and Lauren. I started watching you guys for the finance videos but I really enjoy your videos. I always watch straight through the whole video and watch any ads you have.
Thanks for the support!
But... Why... Damn too heavy and stronog for nothing.
Inexperience. I didn't know how thin I could make the material and still meet my goals for the machine.
First
This entire video is offensive.
Sorry?
Use cap machine screws, Countersunk screws will locate on the taper of the bolt head and the hole meaning you dont have any room for fine tuning the position of the rails etc meaning you have to drill your holes PRECISELY where you need them. Will make your life easier.
The tapper as opposed to the tapie? Or did you mean the taper? Not to be confused with a tapir, which make terrible pets.
edited my reply but its fairly obvious what i meant mate
Lube your numb nuts ruclips.net/video/8hFC7ENSR7I/видео.html
@@1pcfred
My tapir is deeply hurt.