3D printers really are "force multipliers" when it comes to building things. Be careful though....they have a nasty habit of self-replicating. I had 1, now I have 3.
Great design ! Your printer managed really well the upper part of your "contour" as you call it, doesn't seem to have much overhanging. When asked about the perfect amount of printer one really need, n+1 is the answer where n is the actual amount owned ;)
@@dominicgagne14 N + 1 is ALWAYS the appropriate answer when anyone asks, "How many of do you need?" ....or if I'm feeling especially snarky/miffed I'll ask them a rather inappropriate personal question. Usually ends the conversation right quick and in a hurry.
I have their small rectangular dustless sander and I like it, I had some trouble finding the Mirka one when I went to buy it a few months ago. What I like about this is you can buy different hardness pads online, and really could put any 5 or 6 inch pad on here based on your preference.
If the smaller Design fails you could try designing screws going all the way through to the top of your part and topping them off with nuts. That will strengenth the whole Part.
I have found that incorporating threads in the print usually results in a fairly strong connection. Fusion 360's thread tool really helps with that. Then run a tap through to clean them up.
Great idea. I could see these being in production somewhere soon. I don't have a 3-D printer but if I did I think I would make one of these. The thing-a-verse link didn't work.
Great project Chris! Great take on solving a problem we have all learned to ignore (can't do nuttin about that hand sanding dust, just the way it is). Like that bigger picture thinking! Also enjoyed you taking us through the design/prototyping process on this! Don't have a 3D printer (yet) so got me thinking about other ways to make something with similar functionality!
They are great to have! its the kind of thing that really becomes a need once you spend more time doing the 3d modeling part. Ive found it really satisfied my desire to always be creating things, even when I can't be in the shop.
Chris my Lawyers will be in touch with you , they want to discuss Patent Infringement 😂😂😂😂😂 . All kidding aside this is great and I have and idea for a add-on for easier use that I will talk to you about in the near future. Stay Dry and Alive .
I like the concept a lot and the only changes that Id make would be to add a few (3-5) half-inch projections on the inside perimeter of the bell to support the outside edge of the sanding pad. That would add support to it and remove some of the strain from the plastic that the bolt is screwed into caused by the constant back and forth strain that sanding and getting knocked about causes. If you wanted to make it even more robust, instead of projections they could be supports that radiate from the central support boss to the outside perimeter, like a Mercedes star or a starfish shape. That would serve the double duty of locating the pad more securely and also adding strength to the outer bell in case it gets dropped. Printing wise it may still be possible to do in one piece but making it in 2 pieces and glueing them together would be easy also. In the long run, for ongevities sake, I think the small one needs nut inserts or the internal threads will soon wear out.
If you find that screwing in the smaller disc doesn't last very long, it is pretty easy to create holes with a standard threading in Fusion. The holes would have thicker walls around the threading and should be stronger. You could then use something like a metric hex bolt to hold it all together.
I agree with you regarding a patent. Both the design and concept, or idea, are most likely patentable. Unfortunately, getting a patent is a long, drawn out process and it is expensive. In the early 2000s it was costing around $75,000 to get a patent. I am most impressed with your creativity and skill. Keep up the good work! Bob
Great idea I used a PVC pipe and cap then drilled a hole on the side with a small dia I put a use straight pipe cut then smooth then the cap glued to the PVC pipe with a carriage bolt 2nuts and washers
Thank you for sharing the 3D Print files. Many of us have lower skill level with computer design. - It is definitely better to follow in your foot steps.
Manufactured pads have foam so they give a little Under the pressure of sanding, a 3D printed pad would have no movement under sensing pressure, it makes more sense to use one for the $8
I have an almost identical DIY hand sander, no dust collection though. I built mine out of a porter's bell. Just removed the spring and chime and swapped the finial for a wing nut. I have a huge crate of 5-in circular sanding pads that are 1950s NOS, far more than I can use in one lifetime. The bell portion clamps the paper all the way around to the base. The base originally had a raised perimeter but I zipped that off in the surface grinder. It's such a small thing but very handy, I probably use it once for every 2 hours I'm in the shop. I also feel a lot safer using it on the lathe then a strip of Emory cloth.
If you make the vacuum port be a stepped taper, that would allow nearly any vacuum to be used. A straight taper necessarily works, but often requires tape in addition. If you have stepped tapers, this is usually enough to grip the hose well
Yet another "diy" "you can make yourself" where they have a shop with a 3d printer, lathe, cnc machine. It's like a at home car repair made at a mechanics shop
Yes, I have a shop with a lot of very complicated and expensive tools but many people have 3D printers, for many modern day makers, that’s their first tool. I do a lot of projects with simple tools to show that you don’t need anything crazy to make cool stuff. Also another reason why I gave the print files for this so even if you have no 3D desifn experience you could print one or have one printed
Chris, if you want this video to have a wider appeal, it should be a 3 minutes video tops: problem, idea, solution, implementation. you want to target specifically someone who is searching for a 3dprinted sandpad, focus and that, and it should still be under 10 minutes. But almost no one needa to see all the itinerations, your though processes, how many holes a makita pad has… trim and figure out who you are making videos for! Good luck
Great idea. I would look at the Mirka handle as a model. I also think you might want to have more air flow around the sides, so there is less vacuum when you sand a large board, hindering your ability to move the sander.
There are a couple other advantages that come from making your own platen. You could make a size and shape that allows for a small 1/8 clearance between the outside of the sanding pad and the body. Also, why be limited to Festool or Makita paper? The holes are a fairly weak design. Think about slotted and drilled rotors, they resemble older machine laps. The idea is to have a lot of clearance channels for the grit to not end up between the sander and the work. Since you are 3D printing, these channels could theoretically have a third dimension, they could sweep smoothly and upwards, guiding the sawdust into a vortex. This will help keep the airspeed high. You should take a look at older cast iron laps, I think you will find a lot of valuable information that is applicable to this project
This is a pretty interesting design! A few thoughts right off the bat, the main bore for the suction, if you made that have a slight hourglass shape above the manifold point, the venturi effect would speed up the air without narrowing it enough to drop out heavier dust. The surface finish of 3D prints would be awful for suction, I have read that there are many techniques to smooth things out such as acetone or sanding. I think you would be surprised by how much difference in efficiency a smooth surface with gentle bends makes. The only other obvious modification to me is the vacuum port. If you made this out of two pieces, you could have an elbow that can free spin. I think this would make it more comfortable to use and easier to get in tight spots.
I think this project has a lot of potential to become a production run. I think the next step needs to be eliminating the Festool or Makita part. It's just a disc with holes and some foam. You need a bolt circle, but no other precision is required. The angle around the perimeter is an irrelevant angle, I believe it is only sloped for access reasons. There's nothing proprietary about velcro mounting, if you developed your own platen I think you would be free to pursue it. I don't see that part taking more than 10 minutes on a lathe, but UHMW would certainly be flat and strong enough. In fact, I think that would be the logical next step. Find somebody with a commercial grade CNC that can use your files. I know of send cut send, I'm sure there are many other companies that will machine your designs for a flat rate. This would enable you to measure the suction rate, I'm sure you could go through the iterative process with 3D prints, there's no reason that the ratio should not be consistent. Knowing the suction rate could very likely drive your marketing and it might expose you to other industries / applications for your design. I think it is worth pursuing, it's far more elegant than the classic bent wire locking system
3D printers really are "force multipliers" when it comes to building things. Be careful though....they have a nasty habit of self-replicating. I had 1, now I have 3.
I have one at home, and one at the shop!
That's why it's very important to neuter or spay your 3D printers
Great design ! Your printer managed really well the upper part of your "contour" as you call it, doesn't seem to have much overhanging. When asked about the perfect amount of printer one really need, n+1 is the answer where n is the actual amount owned ;)
@@dominicgagne14 N + 1 is ALWAYS the appropriate answer when anyone asks, "How many of do you need?"
....or if I'm feeling especially snarky/miffed I'll ask them a rather inappropriate personal question. Usually ends the conversation right quick and in a hurry.
Brilliant!
Any reason why you didn't use Mirka's solution in the first place(Mirka Roundy)?
I have their small rectangular dustless sander and I like it, I had some trouble finding the Mirka one when I went to buy it a few months ago. What I like about this is you can buy different hardness pads online, and really could put any 5 or 6 inch pad on here based on your preference.
If the smaller Design fails you could try designing screws going all the way through to the top of your part and topping them off with nuts. That will strengenth the whole Part.
I have found that incorporating threads in the print usually results in a fairly strong connection. Fusion 360's thread tool really helps with that. Then run a tap through to clean them up.
dead links
Fixed it! I had added an extra W to my websites URL. should work now
You will get more strength by adding extra perimeters (loops in some slicers) vs. additional infill.
You could also 3D print a flat base and get hook and Loop(velcro) that has an adhesive side to stick on the base. This is very very cool!
Great idea. I could see these being in production somewhere soon. I don't have a 3-D printer but if I did I think I would make one of these. The thing-a-verse link didn't work.
Are we not gonna mention how he stood there with the hose between his legs? 🤨
Why did it break?
I dropped it down the stairs in my house on the way to the shop...
Great project Chris! Great take on solving a problem we have all learned to ignore (can't do nuttin about that hand sanding dust, just the way it is). Like that bigger picture thinking! Also enjoyed you taking us through the design/prototyping process on this! Don't have a 3D printer (yet) so got me thinking about other ways to make something with similar functionality!
They are great to have! its the kind of thing that really becomes a need once you spend more time doing the 3d modeling part. Ive found it really satisfied my desire to always be creating things, even when I can't be in the shop.
Very cool watching you talk through this. Another big benefit is that the paper doesn’t clog up as much when it has a vacuum on it.
Thanks for watching Jeremy, ill have to print you one!
@@MakeEverything well, I’ll be happy to have it! I have the Dewalt size 😉
This is probably the best shop made hand sanding solution...ever. I'll be making one of these for sure. Thanks for the design.
Chris my Lawyers will be in touch with you , they want to discuss Patent Infringement 😂😂😂😂😂 .
All kidding aside this is great and I have and idea for a add-on for easier use that I will talk to you about in the near future.
Stay Dry and Alive .
Should you Kickstarter this? Yes. Yes you should
very nice and helpful. keep making. god bless.
I like the concept a lot and the only changes that Id make would be to add a few (3-5) half-inch projections on the inside perimeter of the bell to support the outside edge of the sanding pad. That would add support to it and remove some of the strain from the plastic that the bolt is screwed into caused by the constant back and forth strain that sanding and getting knocked about causes.
If you wanted to make it even more robust, instead of projections they could be supports that radiate from the central support boss to the outside perimeter, like a Mercedes star or a starfish shape. That would serve the double duty of locating the pad more securely and also adding strength to the outer bell in case it gets dropped. Printing wise it may still be possible to do in one piece but making it in 2 pieces and glueing them together would be easy also. In the long run, for ongevities sake, I think the small one needs nut inserts or the internal threads will soon wear out.
If you find that screwing in the smaller disc doesn't last very long, it is pretty easy to create holes with a standard threading in Fusion. The holes would have thicker walls around the threading and should be stronger. You could then use something like a metric hex bolt to hold it all together.
You may want to patent this!! What a great idea!
I agree with you regarding a patent. Both the design and concept, or idea, are most likely patentable. Unfortunately, getting a patent is a long, drawn out process and it is expensive. In the early 2000s it was costing around $75,000 to get a patent.
I am most impressed with your creativity and skill. Keep up the good work!
Bob
Looks great, I will try and print one this weekend. I'll try with PETG.
Great idea I used a PVC pipe and cap then drilled a hole on the side with a small dia I put a use straight pipe cut then smooth then the cap glued to the PVC pipe with a carriage bolt 2nuts and washers
This video popped up on my Google cards👌 subscribing for sure 🔥🔥
What a Awsom idea, I have never seen this idea. So
great job...
Thank's
Thank you for sharing the 3D Print files.
Many of us have lower skill level with computer design.
- It is definitely better to follow in your foot steps.
You are welcome! Good luck on the print!
Where does the motor go? 🤪
gotta eat your wheaties!
Great idea and design. Mahalo for sharing! 🙂🐒
you have 3d printer, why you make separated part?
you could make integrated pad
Manufactured pads have foam so they give a little Under the pressure of sanding, a 3D printed pad would have no movement under sensing pressure, it makes more sense to use one for the $8
What's the difference between the 3D printed version and the regular 600 dollar sander? 😕
I have an almost identical DIY hand sander, no dust collection though. I built mine out of a porter's bell. Just removed the spring and chime and swapped the finial for a wing nut. I have a huge crate of 5-in circular sanding pads that are 1950s NOS, far more than I can use in one lifetime. The bell portion clamps the paper all the way around to the base. The base originally had a raised perimeter but I zipped that off in the surface grinder. It's such a small thing but very handy, I probably use it once for every 2 hours I'm in the shop. I also feel a lot safer using it on the lathe then a strip of Emory cloth.
How wide are tool chests?
Great work
If you make the vacuum port be a stepped taper, that would allow nearly any vacuum to be used. A straight taper necessarily works, but often requires tape in addition. If you have stepped tapers, this is usually enough to grip the hose well
This is great! I don't have a 3D printer, but will be giving this design a shot with my CNC. Thanks for the inspiration!
Heated inserts for life
Maybe with tab’s printed with it on the inside of the larger one would help to stabilise the disk, if that’s possible
You could also add a block of higher infill in the slicer just around that square part for the pad.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yet another "diy" "you can make yourself" where they have a shop with a 3d printer, lathe, cnc machine.
It's like a at home car repair made at a mechanics shop
Yes, I have a shop with a lot of very complicated and expensive tools but many people have 3D printers, for many modern day makers, that’s their first tool. I do a lot of projects with simple tools to show that you don’t need anything crazy to make cool stuff. Also another reason why I gave the print files for this so even if you have no 3D desifn experience you could print one or have one printed
@Make Everything I'm just jealous. I like your channel
Great video, I haven't got a 3d printer but they do look great.
Cool idea! 👍
Thanks for watching!
It's like a Flowbee, but for wood.
Chris, if you want this video to have a wider appeal, it should be a 3 minutes video tops: problem, idea, solution, implementation. you want to target specifically someone who is searching for a 3dprinted sandpad, focus and that, and it should still be under 10 minutes. But almost no one needa to see all the itinerations, your though processes, how many holes a makita pad has… trim and figure out who you are making videos for! Good luck
I like to give all the info, if you want to skip around, RUclips makes it easy to do that. Ill add some chapters, that should help.
👍👍👍👍
Awesome idea I’d buy one of those
Cool idea! You could use heat gun on max heat to clean up supports leftovers really fast and easy.
Great idea.
I would look at the Mirka handle as a model.
I also think you might want to have more air flow around the sides, so there is less vacuum when you sand a large board, hindering your ability to move the sander.
There are a couple other advantages that come from making your own platen. You could make a size and shape that allows for a small 1/8 clearance between the outside of the sanding pad and the body. Also, why be limited to Festool or Makita paper? The holes are a fairly weak design. Think about slotted and drilled rotors, they resemble older machine laps. The idea is to have a lot of clearance channels for the grit to not end up between the sander and the work. Since you are 3D printing, these channels could theoretically have a third dimension, they could sweep smoothly and upwards, guiding the sawdust into a vortex. This will help keep the airspeed high. You should take a look at older cast iron laps, I think you will find a lot of valuable information that is applicable to this project
This is a pretty interesting design! A few thoughts right off the bat, the main bore for the suction, if you made that have a slight hourglass shape above the manifold point, the venturi effect would speed up the air without narrowing it enough to drop out heavier dust. The surface finish of 3D prints would be awful for suction, I have read that there are many techniques to smooth things out such as acetone or sanding. I think you would be surprised by how much difference in efficiency a smooth surface with gentle bends makes. The only other obvious modification to me is the vacuum port. If you made this out of two pieces, you could have an elbow that can free spin. I think this would make it more comfortable to use and easier to get in tight spots.
I think this project has a lot of potential to become a production run. I think the next step needs to be eliminating the Festool or Makita part. It's just a disc with holes and some foam. You need a bolt circle, but no other precision is required. The angle around the perimeter is an irrelevant angle, I believe it is only sloped for access reasons. There's nothing proprietary about velcro mounting, if you developed your own platen I think you would be free to pursue it. I don't see that part taking more than 10 minutes on a lathe, but UHMW would certainly be flat and strong enough. In fact, I think that would be the logical next step. Find somebody with a commercial grade CNC that can use your files. I know of send cut send, I'm sure there are many other companies that will machine your designs for a flat rate. This would enable you to measure the suction rate, I'm sure you could go through the iterative process with 3D prints, there's no reason that the ratio should not be consistent. Knowing the suction rate could very likely drive your marketing and it might expose you to other industries / applications for your design. I think it is worth pursuing, it's far more elegant than the classic bent wire locking system