1972 Triumph Bonneville T120RV OIF 650 - Forks & Seals - Part 16
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- This is a continuation of the video of a few jobs on the 1972 Triumph Bonneville T120V OIF (Oil In Frame) 650cc model in the very distinct tiger gold colour/color. In this episode, I will be removing the front forks and replacing the leaking fork seals
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▶️ Playlist:
1972 Triumph Bonneville T120RV mini-series: • Feature | 1972 Triumph...
🎵 Music in this video:
RUclips Audio Library: The Old RV by Craig MacArthur
RUclips Audio Library: Tea for Tat - Verified Picasso
RUclips Audio Library: Anno Domini Beats - Tropic
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It's so nice to watch someone doing this so cleanly and calmly. You, sir, are a gentleman!
Thank you kindly!☺️
Mike, it is always a big highlight for me to see one of your garage videos pop up. You are an absolute pleasure to listen to, your calm voice and methodical mechanical skills are awesome. Live long and prosper old mate.
Thank you very much for your kind words, James! I really appreciate it and thanks a lot for continuing to watch. Best wishes, Mike
Hello Mike, another informative garage session. The pivot bolt on the brake lever (1:55) in my opinion is upside down . If the nut comes loose the bolt will drop out . ( I know it's a nyloc nut ) Anyhoo thanks for the video .
Hi, thanks for your note. Unfortunately, it’s the only way that the shouldered pivot bolt will fit on this clutch side, because the hole in the lever ‘perch’ / mount is threaded at the top and not the bottom like on the other lever. The opposite brake lever perch is the correct orientation with the thread on the bottom, otherwise I could have swapped over the levers. I agree, I prefer to have the nut on the bottom for that reason, plus the screw-head instead of the nut also looks better on the top in my opinion. Cheers, Mike
@TheMightyGarage Thank you for the reply , I'm not overly familiar with that type of lever so thanks for the explanation . Best wishes to you and yours for the new year .
Thanks again Mike. And yes, my eagle Triumph sniffing eyes clocked it straight away… lol! My tank has faded to a rather dull brownish hue that no amount of T Cutting can improve. I’m looking for another T140 tank to paint in the correct scheme ( keeping the original faded one as is). I just hope that the Special’s badges line up with the holes in the regular tank.
I purchased a brand new but leftover ‘79 T140 E when I worked in NC in the early ‘80’s. It was a real problem bike so I’m hoping this one will be better.
All the best, Ian. ( ex.pat. Putnam Valley NY).
Another job where it’s a lot easier when you have the correct tools for the job, as you have here. So often you’d come across bike parts that had been butchered by use of the wrong tools. Well done, another very interesting tutorial.
Thanks Nigel. Hope all is going well for 2025. Cheers, Mike
Thank you very much Mike. Picked up a T140D Special a couple of months ago and will be fitting gaiters shortly. Seeing as I have to remove the legs anyway I’ll follow your lead and change the seals while I’m at it. Much appreciated.
You are very welcome! That is a great bike! Best wishes, Mike
Super cool thanks Mike for the 2 cents. By the way I wish you a very good year to you and your relatives
Many thanks Nicolas. Same to you. I hope you have a great 2025! Cheers, Mike
Hey, Mike, I always use copper- washers for drain-plugs; works great for me… thanks for this nice video again; ALWAYS a pleasure on a cold Sunday morning here in northern Germany!! greetings Manfred
Thank you Manfred! I hope all is well. Cheers, Mike
It's always funny (and scary) what you find when you start taking these bikes apart. An upside down fork seal is bad, but at least it's not going to cause catastrophic damage. Let's hope the guy that did those seals didn't do any major engine work on the bike.
That tool your friend gave you is nice. I used a long breaker bar with flat head screw driver socket on the end and was able to hold the inside part still to undo that allen-head at the bottom. Also, the first time I did fork seals I did battle with one of them for what seemed like hours... because I didn't have the right tools. A tire iron actually works very well. That's my go-to now when doing fork seals.
Thanks for the tip on fork tool, Dave. Cheers, Mike
Good morning Mike. Great to see you back after your well earned holiday break!
Great work on the front end rebuild and maintenance.
After many years of using Silicone, I’ve found that it will prematurely degrade rubber. That includes tires, seals etc.
A fantastic product I started using about 20 years ago is Wurth Rubber Care. It actually lubes while preserving and rejuvenating rubber and extends the life of whatever you apply it to.
God bless you and the family!
Hi Mick, I hope all is well. Many thanks for the tip on Wurth Rubber Care. I was just about to reorder the silicone and so will try it instead. Best wishes to you and your family for 2025! Cheers, Mike
@ Things are good and you are welcome! It also is fantastic for preserving pedal and foot peg rubbers without making them to terribly slippery!
Thanks again Mick, I have ordered some. Cheers, Mike
I did the same job on my TR7RV forty odd years ago , ah , memories 😀
Very nice work you do Mike.
Thank you very much! Best wishes, Mike
Enjoyed the video Mike. Nice job beginning to end. RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
Hello from Hungary!!
Szia és köszönöm, hogy megnézted!
Interesting to see how these forks don't have the upper and lower bushings on the tube and slider. I see this also allows you to install the seals before assembling the tube into the slider. Obviously I haven't worked on too many older bikes. Most of my experience is on 1984 and newer.
Doing the front end on my 69' Tiger, have to say the internally sprung forks look a little more tricky to rebuild, though drawing them up into the tripp tree is a breeze as you do not have to fight the springs. Keep up the good work!
Nice job Mike, shame about the gaters not fitting so well!
Have a great week 👍 atvb t .. 🏍
Thanks, you too T!
If you have to work on ceriani style forks again Mike, use a 5/16 threaded rod to go through the bottom of the slider, put the sealing washer on it and let gravity slide it down rather than dropping it in and jiggling it around to place it.
😅
That is a great tip - thanks for sharing, Richard! Cheers, Mike
When backing a bike onto a lift and not having anyone around to assist, I have constructed a longer ramp portion to decrease the amount of sudden incline in getting the bike onto the lift. The gentle incline makes it a bit more manageable although still a little tricky. Unless backing onto a lift often, some of the logistics just feel awkward.
Thanks a lot Daniel for the tip! That's great. Cheers, Mike
Have you thought about extending the brake arms to improve braking effectiveness and fitting progressive fork springs to improve the ride?
Thanks a lot for the tip. Yes, another fellow kindly suggested it and I will see how the brakes feel. The next video is about adjusting them and I'm not sure that they are as good as they can be, but I think I might need new shoes! Cheers, Mike
@TheMightyGarage stainless classics over in the UK offer a kit either in brushed or polished finished however both are sold out, but the pictures are worth a look.
I wonder if the chromed screw is a pozidriv. As identified by four tic marks at a 45 to the slots. If it is a Pozidrive bit may make the difference as they can apply much more force over a Philips head bit.
Thanks Dan, yes it is pozidriv and my screwdrivers are pozidriv and they make such a difference but unfortunately it still wouldn't budge. At least it's oil tight 😀 Cheers, Mike
Yeah, just leaving the screw was probably the safest choice. I recall ever coming across a drain screw that had been chromed in place, a unique challenge. I have delt with a number fork drain screws that were stuck and ended up having to grab a hold of the screw head with a needle nose vise grip. The vise grip method can be risky if the screw still doesn't break loose as the vise grip will chew up the screw head and if things slip off you could scar the fork leg. The worst I had where customer insisted I remove and replace the screw, I had to use vise grip and heat (torch)
Sorry about a couple typos in my previous response about the fork leg drain screw. I'm sure everyone was able to figure out what I meant.
Thanks Mike. Just wish I lived in your neck of the woods so I could get some advice. As soon as it warms up I’ll be changing the jets and needle setting to Euro spec. Still has the original 2-1 zorst but it’s way too quiet. 100% stock machine though and I know the PO. 8000 miles.
Please let me know if you have questions. I'm not sure if you saw but my friend John has one and I'm sure he would be happy to assist if he can. Cheers, Mike
Lovely to watch, I must admit I spent a long time on mine matching and straightening the wire headlamp mounting, I'm not a fan either
Thank you Kevin. Cheers, Mike
At some point you will revisit the frozen drain screw problem I’m fairly certain. Carry on.👍
😃 I think you are right.. I've been thinking about it since I put them back on 😀
Reproduction fork legs are available if you wanted to revert to the original from the non-standard chrome that you have. You could even buy all the bits to fit a T140 disk brake to the front, for a major improvement in stopping power. It is all bolt up stuff. You’d have to change the front wheel to go to a disk brake, but it’s doable.
Your thoughts on the tls front brake on this bike and the earlier tls brakes?
Hi from sunny Townsville in Queensland Australia
Hi Janet! Hope all is well and you're having a wonderful summer. Wish I was there!
Doing jobs like this is when you need a third Arm 😮
Yes, I really did! Cheers, Mike
Also not a fan of those headlight mounts. One side on my 71 BSA broke while I was out on a ride. Replaced them with a different style. Bike is sort of a bitsa so not worried about being all original.
What is the reason to remove the rubber mount handlebars?
Hi Kyle, it was just a personal preference. I don't care much for the rubber mounted bars. They just feel a little odd to me, but I agree that they are better for riding as opposed to the hard mounts that I fitted which vibrate more. Cheers, Mike
@@TheMightyGarage Cool thanx for the answer.
I am 73. Aussie and grew up with these English motorcycles. after the beautiful 70 650s I did not like the style of these OIF Triumphs or BSAs . They were great to ride but ugly so never owend one. I still have a 70 Tiger, a 70 Firebird but my favourite is my 72 Roadster..
I know what you mean Brian. I have a soft spot for the 650's in the 60's up to 1970. Cheers, Mike
With reference to the upside-down seals, last year I changed seals for a friend on an old Suzuki and found one was upside down and the other correct...... what are these people doing working on bikes if they make that kind of error ?
Neetoo