I drove my 2013 Leaf 24 kWh until the battery died part 1
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
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19:28 If you look at 12V battery, it's being charged at over 150W, this explains only 1.8kW going into the high voltage pack
And at 19:13 the battery is charging at a whopping 0.168kW while 1.8kW is entering the battery, so 1967.904/2280 = 86.3% efficient charging from the power bank to the battery, that's not bad. At 20:10 the car pulls 2047W, assuming the power bank is the same, at 4.4% SoC efficiency improves to 89.7%
After running to dead flat the Leaf won't normally start again until there is a significant charge in the main battery. However, you can get it to start at a lower level of charge if you disconnect the 12V battery and reconnect it.
Thanks for the tip.
You don't have to replace the 12v battery, just connect a 12v booster to it
I personally think, you should try testing how far it can drive as a city car. So only city driving.... no high ways a preferable, no speeds above 60km/h.
With mine Nissan Leaf 40kwh, I have the experience that you can drive much more when following the "economy" routes in Google Maps. It will send me through the city, instead of to the high way. Which Google Maps did when I was still driving petrol.
With 14.5kWh you easily would be able to drive 100km: just do some tweaks as well. Increase the tire pressure to 2.9bar for example.
The Leaf will go down as an automotive classic.
I totally agree
Leaf and BMW i3
Yeah people will take them to classic car shows...as long as they are less than 30 miles away
@@rhydlew true story bro
@@rhydlew Look at Dala's EV repair. Some of these leaf's will be driving 100's of miles a day for many years to come.
I have a 40kw Zoe (a younger brother to the Leaf), and I'm still surprised how efficient the thing is...my average on the last 4300km is 12.1kWh/100km..and it includes a road trip I did with the family with the car fully loaded.
Only has 22kW AC charger but we have tons of those here in Portugal (and the are pretty cheap).
Love the thing..never going back to fossil for sure.
*kWh
@@bjornnyland my bad 😂
Well, since it's Japanese, "FrankenSan" would be à propos....
living the dream - driving in circles at ikea
Thanks Bjorn. You make breaking down in a electric vehicle fun! ❤❤❤
I'd like to start a "Adopt a LEAF" program in future. I can imagine to give shelter to an old LEAF veteran and use it for driving around town and to work. 70 km per week would be sufficient for me. But for now even old LEAFs are still too expensive in Germany for that. May be that changes in the next years.
@bjornnyland In LeafSpy Pro, go to service menu and you can change the dashboard language to English US, English 2, and English UK. Mine shows as # km/kWh.
I also changed some of the lights and beep warnings via the app. (I have 2011 Leaf SL with only 50% health left 6 bars and get 35km max hwy range, 50km if I drive slow like a grandma)
Respect!
Ouch, I have a 2012 C class and that still gets 700 miles (1050km) at 65mpg☺ - was £12k to buy in 2016 and is still worth around £6k now. In hindsight, I would've bought a Lea... no way, C class all the way haha. Just came back from a 500 mile trip in it, a little under half a tank left, love this thing.
Nice. My 2014 Tekna still has 70% SOH, 9 bars, and I do a daily commute of 70km. Driven distance of 240.000km, on this 10 years. Daily charged with the EVSE at 10amps.
Legend :-)
This is the kind of testing we need - thank you so much, very helpful!!
As far as I remember the heater is "on" no matter what, it will heat up coolant when you start the car in all settings and temps..
I do not remember the "hack", but there's a trick to manually turn off that heater.
This should be true for all those 2010-2013 (pre-facelift) and facelift Visia (non heatpump).
Yes about 10% over-reported km/h sadly is normal on the old Leafs.
But km in trip should be pretty spot on.
The heater is off, when you turn it on it heats upp the coolant even if lower temp settings vs outside
You can drive without the heater on, but then the fan doesn't work. If you wan't to use the fan (to clear the windscreen in cold or humid weather ) it starts to heat the heater fluid to 80C.
I have a 'trick button' installed on mine that fools the car thermostat to believe the temp is 80C in the heater - thus not using any energy. Then the fan can be used. - saves significant energy in most seasons. (Can be prettycold in winter though....).
I get a little emotional seeing the 24kw leaf :)
*kWh
Now, 1000 km challenge with this car, that would actually be a challenge :-P („One week later…“)
Congrats on 300k Bjørn!
I read somewhere that the battery cutoff is at 4 gids , which is what was showing on your Leafspy. I’ve gone down to 5 gids on our 24kWh with no cutoff.
Not that I need to know since I don't own a Leaf, but out of curiosity, what does "gids" stand for?
@@bradallen1832I think the first person to inspect the Leaf's battery was called "Gary Giddings" and 1 gid is 75-80Wh
L1 chargers take forever to charge, i'd be much better to just push the car to the charging station. also if you wanted to run the traction battery to empty, just park at the charging station and run the heater at full blast with all the windows open.
You can park it at home, but what's the fun..?
Such an awesome video! As an old LEAF ZE0 owner, I thoroughly enjoyed your experiment to 0%! Keep it up!!
But why does Frunkenstein have no frunk? 😂
Don't leaf me 😂
Congratulations for 300k subscribers!🎉
You will be standing there for a long time, the car wants over 10% to start
😮😳🫣
Loving the organ music 🦇
After 1000Km challenge now comes the drive in circles on an IKEA parking lot. 😁
You may have a 12V Battery that may fail soon. Looks like its drawing a lot of current.
Also, those new cells/modules look too low. They may need to be pulled and charged outside the pack. I had good luck replacing cells, however I needed to charge them (I believe it was about .10V - .25V) above the rest of the pack. Otherwise my range took a nosedive.
Alternatively, you may consider a few of your magic battery-recalibrating/re-balancing method. It certainly helped me.
Nope. The 12 V battery was replaced not long ago and it is in good shape.
@@bjornnyland 🤔 interesting, perhaps it was just at a low State charge at that time and needed to have its annual boost charge. Regardless, I'm eager to see your progress and I'm wondering if you have done your rebalancing procedure yet
@@bjornnyland I honestly didn't think that you would reply 🤣.
I have had a couple of Nissan leafs now, your videos are the reason why I purchased my first one. Please keep us updated and thank you for what you do, you are awesome 😎
It’s ded. Good. Awaiting part II for resurrection.
Lol as talks about the low SoC at the start of the video, and it goes down!
The leaf spedometer is the biggest liar i've found in a car. On my 2016 30kWh leaf, 132 on the speedometer are 120 on GPS speed.
Yeah 88kmh speedometer gps speedometer 80kmh
All Leaf shuts down on 0,3 kWh. And unbricking after run out of juice is need a litte more juice to unlock the high voltage to engange again.
Also the 40kWh Leaf?
Yesterday I was a bit surprised by the consumption (-11C, strong wind and wet snow on the road). SOC% disappeared in the car display disappeared a few km from the charger. I did reach the charger. Then I plugged in Leaf Spy. I had like 12% SOC left according to leaf spy. Can I drive until almost 0% SOC (Leaf spy measurement) before it stops. Somewhere between my situation and total stop Turtle mode will kick in…
basically most people could use a 10 year old leaf and be quite happy
I've just bought one and the battery loses charge insanely fast! Went from showing 79 miles range to 24 after driving 10 miles! It is a 2013 model and getting it checked over by dealership next week.
@@janiebell- so what was the diagnoses of your LEAF???
TB is out of spec. He can provide his T ref link at any time everywhere 😅 If T complains: TB will answer: give me my Roadsters first! 😅Just kidding. TB is an original. Always a pleasure, thanks 🙏
Btw: Frankenstein is the doctor who "built" the monster. The monster is called "Frankenstein's Monster".
Correct, but...
www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=frankenstein
When are you going to the Arctic circle with it?
I'm pretty sure you just forgot to press the brake pedal along with the start button. The car is prompting you to do that at 20:27.
Nope. I did press brake.
I saw the thumbnail and just assumed he drove it 4kms.
After the 16min off charging, you unplug and try to drive.. BUT you do not turn the car on the all the way. it look like you forgot the break pedal..
Incorrect. I did push the brakes.
Do crackheads also say "let's get cracking" ?
In the beginning I thougt it's degrading at the speed of charging!
Mount the ledbar beneath the license plate for best look
The best EV car forever
When nissan make upgrade battery for this car?
Don't Leaf meeee 😂😂
Love your German.
I guess you have various 'bad cells' on the pack...the cells equalization takes some hours...
The leaf may be rubbish compared to modern EVs but it's 1/3rd the price of a hyundai ioniq 28/38 and are they really 3x the car? Naaah! Especially not compared to a Tekna
I got a Nissan Leaf Tekna 40kWh from 2019 and even though it doesn't come as far as a Tesla: it does come with 360 camera's, very useful while parking. Pro-Pilot, working parking sensors, leather interior, working entertainment system with no bugs at all.
Big boot space and the Leaf can be very efficient within the city as well: even though the SOH is 84% it can still do 300km's of driving, when using it in the city mainly.
And buying as a second hand, was way cheaper than the other EV's. Only other option was Renault ZOE, with usually a rental Battery...
frankenstein leaf yes!
Hahaha don't leaf me😂😂
Black on white: Call it Panda. Or Oreo :D
150w was going to the ded lead b3
Holy Macaroni......leafgate
17:38 Does it really take 2 Amps when OFF? If yes, there's something wrong with 12V circut - maybe faulty relay?
@@benbaselet2026 Oh, yes, indeed: closing air inlets on HVAC, opening high voltage contact breakers, etc.
@@130rapid A lot of cars keep the in-car entertainment and other computers alive for a few minutes after key-off. I know with my Mazda, my phone will remain connected to the bluetooth for a while after key-off. I think its probably just a convenience thing, like if you just popped out the car for a couple of mins, everything is "ready" to go again.
Do you have any climate schedules active?
For sure you were not charging at the begining, Wh with + in LeafSpy means usage.
I see when he was charging with the eco flow the Wh reading had a '-' in front of it, but when he was "charging" in the garage there wasn't... Somewhat confusing app because the amp readings did have '-' in both situations... Which is what was most obvious to me... so it would be easy to confuse if this is how it works as you say
That's very strange because it was pulling power from the charging station.
I have been charging my 2012 leaf with it's schuko charger its fine. The car has so small battery so it will charge overnight no problem.
But it might be inefficient.
@@bjornnyland yes, you are right , it is.
@@Ruudi05 What's stopping you from installing a better evse?
@@samusaran7317 nothing stops really, but that is the way I have been living with my EV and it works for my needs and it came, with my car.
Can buy a new Leaf now for less than 200k nok (under $20K) 40KW Battery, amazing deal
*kWh
outside temp a 56 ???
Not familiar with your term " shukel", not sure what language it is?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuko
Don't leaf me :D :D
It’s now a golf cart
My Volt/Ampera plug-in with 10+ years gets almost the same range lool😂😂
But your Volt has only half the interior space as the Leaf... lol
@@bjornnyland but in compensation, the Ampera looks great 😄... In a more serious note, I follow you since 1st year, and frankly, I think you would get more views if you reviewed more traditional car brands, even used/old EV and Plug-in, than so many videos about Chinese car brands, that most of us don't care at all. I known there are other things involved, but there are so many important models that you missed, that someone looking to get your opinion on it, don't find it here. Just an opinion. Cheers.
So what was with the leaf discharging 10% in the garage. Was it just not charging?
I've read somewhere that the red bars in Leafspy means that those cells are being balanced. Perhaps that's why after some time of idling it started to accept some charge again because the voltage on the top cells went down a bit.
Thats right! The red cells are bleeding energy. But the cell imbalance is to big due to the new cells has to low charge. It will take log time to bleed down all the high cells. Charge the car to 100% then let it be on in the garage over night and in the morning check is cell mV imbalance is lower(better)
TOP!!!
hi, can you tell me which apps use for obd-elm??
Conclusion - you have to be a real Asian to drive electric car. Those calculations made on the run, maan.. very impressive.
😅
68,73% soh gosh ;)
Yep 49mv is very high
At the end you needed to put your foot on the brakes then push the on button the car was telling you but you didn't do what it says :)
The pressure on brake pedal must be very hard, due to no servo help on steering or break when battery is flat
Nope. Once it's dead it's dead. I put the foot on the brakes of coruse.
1:50 what App is this?
LeafSpy
and this is why electric cars had a bad name 10 yrs ago. lol😂
❤❤❤
Bjorn recreating my Leaf range test from 8 years ago :) ruclips.net/video/ddFs5FU8J_I/видео.html
It's funny 😂
Algorithm
My Volvo S80 D2 is 12 years old and can drive over 1000 KM with full tank.
I love EVs but EVs are not as durable as reliable ICE cars like Toyota, Honda...
The ideal situation for EV's is as follows: you drive to your destination, let's say it's 200km? Which you would get with a 2019 Leaf atleast.....
Than you charge the car again fully, and have again 200km available for driving. With an EV it's not about how full is your tank, because you can charge at your end destination.
Whereas with your ICE: you need to drive to the petrol station.
@wesleyvelroij4837 my point is when I look at old old electronic cars they are not as durable and future proof as good ICE cars. I do not see the evidence that I can buy an EV and own it for 15 years with marginal maintenance. The only logical way I see to buy EV today is leasing or switch it every 3 to 4 years.
@@purnoruz you need to keep spending a lot of money on maintenance for an ICE car: else they won't get very old either. An EV on the other hand, needs almost no maintenance at all. Expect tires, brake fluid and brakes.
So an EV can last very long, just the charging connectors might be outdated in 20 years. CHAdeMO is now already being replaced by CCS. For example, every new fast charger Lidl places is one with a CHAdeMO connector.
I think in 20 years, it wouldn't make sense at all to still drive a Nissan Leaf. It's better that the car gets recycled, instead of keep driving it.
I don't know how long the battery of an Nissan Leaf could last: but I would say, if you drive at least 15.000km's a year. Than an EV is beneficial. But if you drive less than 5000 a year? You would be better of driving an ICE, because not driving an EV causes more degradation to the battery.
@wesleyvelroij4837 thank you. yes I drive less than 5K km and in any ways I calculate, 3 years old EV becomes more expensive to buy and own for 10-15 years vs. a 3 years old ICE (especially insurance is a big cost).
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankenstein%27s_monster originally Frankenstein is the name of scientist who assembled monster
www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=frankenstein
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