excellent idea! I've handled that type of e-stop assembly in my professional career, very handy little units. Handy tip for making sure it's where it needs to be in an emergency, stick it a surface with a bit of black butyl rubber. Super sticky stuff, and doesn't leave a residue if you go to remove it, and it's reusable. Just don't stick it to textiles (cloth, carpet, etc).
I build a three way switch into my ATX power supplies. Neutral is where the RaspberryPi is controlling the power. The other two positions are always on (used when I maintain the printer) and the other is the emergency off position. And yes. I used it a couple of time to shut down my printers.
looks like you only used the foot pedal for the enclosure. That means you could have used any old wire to control the e-stop. i might not be understanding though. just wondering bcuz im trying to hook my DIY laser engraver to the e-stop. after watching this, im thinking i should just remove 1 wire from the power supply..connect it to the e stop and another, should go right back to the previous terminal. what do you think. lol. thanks man!!
Hi! You could certainly do that, and I'd suggest that if you want to go that route, use it to switch the DC voltage coming from the power supply. You should probably use at least the same gauge of wire that's used on the DC power and ground leads. Run a couple feet of it from the printer's power supply to the Emergency Stop switch, and another couple feet of it back, and you'd have a hardwired kill switch without having to buy the foot pedal part. I wanted to make a portable solution that would work with nearly anything, rather than hardwiring it into one particular piece of equipment. That's why I used the foot pedal so I could harvest the switch mechanism and its power cable. The way the power cable is wired on it, the ground pin and one of the two power pins pass straight through from the "prong" side to the "socket" side of that part that plugs into the wall. But the other power pin? There's a wire from the "prong" side that comes up the cable, and a wire from the "socket" side that also comes up the cable. When those two wires are connected to a switch, and the switch is "on", whatever's plugged into the socket part gets power. When the switch is "off," whatever's plugged into the socket no longer gets power. :)
That's so cool and very timely as I am currently building an E-Stop linked to a lightning detector for the radio array I've got here. Although I'm having to deal with 230v rather than 120v so I'm being EXCEPTIONALLY careful!
Nice iedea, however; Better to just kill the power to hotend, bed and steppers? Or else you get a cloggled nozzle aa a bonus. Easier yet is to you your method, but hook up an small external power adapter to power the heatsink fan..
I was wondering what you were going to do with that foot pedal. I like your solution rather than cutting the 3d printer's power cord. I have always wondered why emergency stop buttons only come in 10 amps.
Did you verify continuity of the ground pin through that plug? Also there are several pre-made emergency stop power cords on Amazon for under $40. Rockler makes one rated at 15A if you want a brand name, it’s $40. There are some no-name ones for around $33. They are very common in wood shops, and they are typically a paddle instead of a button but they work sitting on a table just as well. I think they use a paddle below the work surface so you could also deactivate the equipment with your knee or leg if your hands are caught. 😬
Hi! Yes, it passes ground through. My Google-Fu (or whatever the Amazon equivalent of "being good at searching" is) must've been malfunctioning. I think I was being too focused in my searches, looking for emergency stop buttons. I do prefer the button to a paddle, though.
It's probably better to wire the first two terminals of the switch between the mainboard and power supply and if you want the other two terminals between the outlet and power supply because it takes time for the capacitors in the power supply to discharge.
With Octoprint and the SimpleEmergencyStop plugin, you can integrate this with a power relay controlled by your Pi. Just put the high-voltage side of the relay in-line between the foot pedal power cord and the Emergency Stop switch, and connect the lower-voltage side to the appropriate pins on the GPIO connector of your Pi, and you have both a physical button to slap, and a remote power control via your Octoprint interface. I'm sure there's similar functionality for Klipper. I've already done this (without the physical emergency stop button) with the relay inside my Ender3v2 case, wired inline between the inside of the power socket and the power supply, with the wires connecting to to the Pi following the same path as the power wires from the supply into the logic board enclosure, then out with the wires going to the motors. I putting the relay in the emergency stop button box is an even simpler way to do the same thing, without having to re-wire anything inside the printer.
I think this isn't the best solution. If you just cut the power supply, the steppers are no longer energized as well, causing the nozzle to potentially crash into whatever is beneath it and then staying there untill you turn the system back on to move it up and away from it. I suggest to dedicate a pin on the motherboard to the emergency button with a macro that does a software emergency stop. Meaning that if you push the button, filament gets retracted a bit, the nozzle moves up a bit, the printhead moves to a save position and the heaters get turned off.
Really you want 2 stop buttons: this one, and one that is tied into your printer's firmware that will immediately cancel the print and raise the nozzle. Just turning power off can complicate the situation if you have a print that has flipped up and is melting all over your hot end, and now your printer insists on homing before you can move anything.
You don't need to DIY an emergency stop button. Save your $$ and get something like the "mxuteuk 120V 10A Magnetic Switch Table Saw Safety Switch Power Tool Switch Emergency Stop Push Button Switch G017" from Amazon. I don't 3D print enough, but if I did, I would get one.
I looked and looked and *_looked_* for an already-built solution on Amazon and couldn't find it! Thanks! For others just coming in, here's a link to the product Matthew is talking about. amzn.to/3VTUE9A
I already fitted orange 13A electrical plugs to my printers power leads and the power strips are on the front of my Lack enclosures so I just unplug in an emergency or throw the strip switch but my Laser cutter has one of those emergency power buttons already fitted, why I did not think of fitting those emergency switches to my printers has me scratching my chin though!
Let me find some. The wire stripper is super nice. The crimper I used was 100% NOT the right one for the job, but it did what I needed it to do. I have a "correct" one somewhere but as usual, couldn't find it when I needed it.
Very cool. I'm very new to this, and I have learned a lot from you especially on leveling. You are organized and explain it out in detail for me. Thank you for that. I don't know if this is out of line to ask, but I haven't seen this covered yet. My knew ender 3 v2 neo won't lift itself up Asia's printing. I have to keep z axing it up. I can't get an answer from creality about it. I'm sure I'm an idiot for even asking it. What the heck am I doing wrong. Can you please help. Thank you.
It's a neat idea to use that foot pedal adapter to switch mains voltage off completely. One word of caution you missed tho: When cutting mains voltage, you cut the power to all the cooling fans of the device too. Sure, there will be no more new energy going into the device to produce heat, but things around the hotend made from 3d printed plastic might start to melt, if you cut any airflow and the heater block is at >200°C. And of course cutting the mains supply might introduce quite a delay between e-stop switching and a device stopping in it's tracks, because of the bulk capacitors in the powersupply. This is a bigger problem with laser engravers or other robots like drawing robots, as they don't use much power, sompared to a 3D printer that has usually some powerhungry heating elements running.
A good many cnc controllers (I could probably say "most" but certainly can't say "all") have some form of "crash detected abort" built in - if a limit switch is hit it will immediately stop motion and disable the toolhead & heaters... I know not all 3d printers have this because I've seen it can be disabled in marlin at least, but it's for sure a part of simpler controllers, like the GRBL boards running many lasers and hobby cnc.
So you expect your emergency to not actually be an emergency? (Honesty, the more I think of it, since my printer is on a small ups, neither of you solutions would work)
This solution is way too rude and not sofisticated. I would like a solution that will rise the toolhead, keep all fans running, but stop extrusion and other movement.
Hi. It turns out there's a reason this is referred to as an *_Emergency Stop Button_* and not *_A Button That Stops The Printer In An Orderly Fashion_* ... This button is to be used in the event of an emergency, when you want the printer (or other device) OFF, and you want that to happen RIGHT NOW. Your 3D printer already has *_A Button That Stops The Printer In An Orderly Fashion_* -- It's the "stop print" button on your 3D printer's screen. 🙂
Very cool! I was a bit surprised that these machines didn’t have a E-Stop when I first started printing.
What’s that cool screwdriver?
I would like to know too!
excellent idea! I've handled that type of e-stop assembly in my professional career, very handy little units. Handy tip for making sure it's where it needs to be in an emergency, stick it a surface with a bit of black butyl rubber. Super sticky stuff, and doesn't leave a residue if you go to remove it, and it's reusable. Just don't stick it to textiles (cloth, carpet, etc).
Hey Bryan, off topic question, what is that screwdriver you're using?
I build a three way switch into my ATX power supplies. Neutral is where the RaspberryPi is controlling the power. The other two positions are always on (used when I maintain the printer) and the other is the emergency off position. And yes. I used it a couple of time to shut down my printers.
Thank you Bryan for being an awesome person to.
i'll second that!
I LOVE THIS! What a great project so well explained and sourced. Thanks for the helping us keep safe, Bryan!
looks like you only used the foot pedal for the enclosure. That means you could have used any old wire to control the e-stop. i might not be understanding though. just wondering bcuz im trying to hook my DIY laser engraver to the e-stop. after watching this, im thinking i should just remove 1 wire from the power supply..connect it to the e stop and another, should go right back to the previous terminal. what do you think. lol. thanks man!!
Hi! You could certainly do that, and I'd suggest that if you want to go that route, use it to switch the DC voltage coming from the power supply. You should probably use at least the same gauge of wire that's used on the DC power and ground leads. Run a couple feet of it from the printer's power supply to the Emergency Stop switch, and another couple feet of it back, and you'd have a hardwired kill switch without having to buy the foot pedal part.
I wanted to make a portable solution that would work with nearly anything, rather than hardwiring it into one particular piece of equipment. That's why I used the foot pedal so I could harvest the switch mechanism and its power cable. The way the power cable is wired on it, the ground pin and one of the two power pins pass straight through from the "prong" side to the "socket" side of that part that plugs into the wall. But the other power pin? There's a wire from the "prong" side that comes up the cable, and a wire from the "socket" side that also comes up the cable. When those two wires are connected to a switch, and the switch is "on", whatever's plugged into the socket part gets power. When the switch is "off," whatever's plugged into the socket no longer gets power. :)
@@BV3D Many thanks for the detailed explaination my friend. ill actually subscribe so i can check out some or your next vids too! thanks again!
Hey Brian, thats a pretty cool screw driver, where did you get it?
That's so cool and very timely as I am currently building an E-Stop linked to a lightning detector for the radio array I've got here. Although I'm having to deal with 230v rather than 120v so I'm being EXCEPTIONALLY careful!
Nice iedea, however;
Better to just kill the power to hotend, bed and steppers? Or else you get a cloggled nozzle aa a bonus.
Easier yet is to you your method, but hook up an small external power adapter to power the heatsink fan..
I bought a simple stop switch off Amazon for 15.00. Came with fuse and is basically what you've built.
I was wondering what you were going to do with that foot pedal. I like your solution rather than cutting the 3d printer's power cord. I have always wondered why emergency stop buttons only come in 10 amps.
Did you verify continuity of the ground pin through that plug? Also there are several pre-made emergency stop power cords on Amazon for under $40. Rockler makes one rated at 15A if you want a brand name, it’s $40. There are some no-name ones for around $33. They are very common in wood shops, and they are typically a paddle instead of a button but they work sitting on a table just as well. I think they use a paddle below the work surface so you could also deactivate the equipment with your knee or leg if your hands are caught. 😬
Hi! Yes, it passes ground through. My Google-Fu (or whatever the Amazon equivalent of "being good at searching" is) must've been malfunctioning. I think I was being too focused in my searches, looking for emergency stop buttons. I do prefer the button to a paddle, though.
It's probably better to wire the first two terminals of the switch between the mainboard and power supply and if you want the other two terminals between the outlet and power supply because it takes time for the capacitors in the power supply to discharge.
With Octoprint and the SimpleEmergencyStop plugin, you can integrate this with a power relay controlled by your Pi. Just put the high-voltage side of the relay in-line between the foot pedal power cord and the Emergency Stop switch, and connect the lower-voltage side to the appropriate pins on the GPIO connector of your Pi, and you have both a physical button to slap, and a remote power control via your Octoprint interface. I'm sure there's similar functionality for Klipper. I've already done this (without the physical emergency stop button) with the relay inside my Ender3v2 case, wired inline between the inside of the power socket and the power supply, with the wires connecting to to the Pi following the same path as the power wires from the supply into the logic board enclosure, then out with the wires going to the motors. I putting the relay in the emergency stop button box is an even simpler way to do the same thing, without having to re-wire anything inside the printer.
Thanks BV3D. 👍🏻
I think this isn't the best solution. If you just cut the power supply, the steppers are no longer energized as well, causing the nozzle to potentially crash into whatever is beneath it and then staying there untill you turn the system back on to move it up and away from it. I suggest to dedicate a pin on the motherboard to the emergency button with a macro that does a software emergency stop. Meaning that if you push the button, filament gets retracted a bit, the nozzle moves up a bit, the printhead moves to a save position and the heaters get turned off.
Really you want 2 stop buttons: this one, and one that is tied into your printer's firmware that will immediately cancel the print and raise the nozzle. Just turning power off can complicate the situation if you have a print that has flipped up and is melting all over your hot end, and now your printer insists on homing before you can move anything.
You don't need to DIY an emergency stop button. Save your $$ and get something like the "mxuteuk 120V 10A Magnetic Switch Table Saw Safety Switch Power Tool Switch Emergency Stop Push Button Switch G017" from Amazon. I don't 3D print enough, but if I did, I would get one.
I looked and looked and *_looked_* for an already-built solution on Amazon and couldn't find it! Thanks! For others just coming in, here's a link to the product Matthew is talking about. amzn.to/3VTUE9A
I already fitted orange 13A electrical plugs to my printers power leads and the power strips are on the front of my Lack enclosures so I just unplug in an emergency or throw the strip switch but my Laser cutter has one of those emergency power buttons already fitted, why I did not think of fitting those emergency switches to my printers has me scratching my chin though!
Looks like a useful button!
My husband has asked if there links to all the cutting and crimping tools used. I said he must be jealous, and he agreed 😆
Let me find some. The wire stripper is super nice. The crimper I used was 100% NOT the right one for the job, but it did what I needed it to do. I have a "correct" one somewhere but as usual, couldn't find it when I needed it.
Is it also possible to let the user know via a display and a raspberry pi that the emergency stop button is pressed?
Tee shirt is wrong! It’s a failed print, but a fully successful spaghetti monster! 😂
You are technically correct. The best kind of correct.
Yes, awesome shirt!
Another great video
Do you have the files for the strain relief?
Very cool. I'm very new to this, and I have learned a lot from you especially on leveling. You are organized and explain it out in detail for me. Thank you for that. I don't know if this is out of line to ask, but I haven't seen this covered yet. My knew ender 3 v2 neo won't lift itself up Asia's printing. I have to keep z axing it up. I can't get an answer from creality about it. I'm sure I'm an idiot for even asking it. What the heck am I doing wrong. Can you please help. Thank you.
OK that's as I'm printing not Asia
Do you have a file for the actual red stop peice
It's a neat idea to use that foot pedal adapter to switch mains voltage off completely.
One word of caution you missed tho: When cutting mains voltage, you cut the power to all the cooling fans of the device too. Sure, there will be no more new energy going into the device to produce heat, but things around the hotend made from 3d printed plastic might start to melt, if you cut any airflow and the heater block is at >200°C.
And of course cutting the mains supply might introduce quite a delay between e-stop switching and a device stopping in it's tracks, because of the bulk capacitors in the powersupply. This is a bigger problem with laser engravers or other robots like drawing robots, as they don't use much power, sompared to a 3D printer that has usually some powerhungry heating elements running.
A good many cnc controllers (I could probably say "most" but certainly can't say "all") have some form of "crash detected abort" built in - if a limit switch is hit it will immediately stop motion and disable the toolhead & heaters... I know not all 3d printers have this because I've seen it can be disabled in marlin at least, but it's for sure a part of simpler controllers, like the GRBL boards running many lasers and hobby cnc.
Hurt the whole time your dying. Lol
Why not just pull the plug or switch it off at the mains
So you expect your emergency to not actually be an emergency?
(Honesty, the more I think of it, since my printer is on a small ups, neither of you solutions would work)
As long as no one invents a delfdestructinator button all is good, or does as Doofenshmirtz who adds auto destruction buttons to everything he builds
This solution is way too rude and not sofisticated. I would like a solution that will rise the toolhead, keep all fans running, but stop extrusion and other movement.
Hi. It turns out there's a reason this is referred to as an *_Emergency Stop Button_* and not *_A Button That Stops The Printer In An Orderly Fashion_* ... This button is to be used in the event of an emergency, when you want the printer (or other device) OFF, and you want that to happen RIGHT NOW. Your 3D printer already has *_A Button That Stops The Printer In An Orderly Fashion_* -- It's the "stop print" button on your 3D printer's screen. 🙂