In the two years since you posted this, nobody else, before or since, has posted a better explanation video for this. All of your Ender3 V-2 videos are top quality. Thank you, sir!
Followed this guide and worked great. Just to note, I had to reduce my retraction to 4mm and increase my printing temp +5 degrees C to resolve an issue where my all metal hot end nozzle was becoming blocked when trying to print PLA on my normal settings. Might save someone a headache!
I've been watching your videos for about a year now and you just seem like an all round really nice guy, and you put so much effort into your videos, even more than some of the larger channels, I admire that! Keep it up. Euan
Hi Greg! I realize this is nearly a year late, but THANK YOU very much! RUclips rolled out this Applaud feature (now called Super Thanks) but, until very recently, didn't give creators an easy way to find them. Now they have, and I wanted to say I am grateful for your support!
Hi Bryan. Thank you for making it clear that the hot end and nozzle should be replaced if you're working with filaments that require higher melting temperatures. Some vloggers make it sound like a must, and it's not if you're printing with lower temperatures like those needed to melt PLA.
“Don’t over tighten the screw, the idea is to keep the (thermistor) wires in place without crushing them.” You Sir are a life saver. And I’m a fool. I couldn’t figure out why the printer would not boot up. Or alternately, reset in the middle of heating up. You only need it hold the thing in place, not pressure weld it into the block.
Thank you.I just installed one but was concerned that the bowden tube doesnt go in very far. You mention this and alleviated my worry. Much appreciated!
I've been printing CF nylon with the stock hot end. Using a hardened steel nozzle and Capricorn bowden tubing. I'm printing it at 250 C. Capricorn can be used at 260 C indefinitely.
Bro your gonna love it.. Just make sure it's put together tight, like tighten when its hot so you get no leakage! I just printed a carbon fiber wrench 🛠 😎
Thank you! I have successfully replaced my hot end on my Elegoo Neptune 2S with the Micro Swiss. It took me longer to think about it than to actually just do it. Your video made it so easy. Thank you!
Thank you for this video. Helped me install a new hot end on my ender3v2. Next up is installing the Aliminum extruder, then the BLTouch. Going to watch your other two videos now. Thank you and please keep making these videos for us beginners!! They really help out so much and are the best and thorough out there!
Damn, recently ordered a ender 3 V2 and I do want to upgrade some of the components, fortunately you seem to have got all the videos i need for the upgrades. Love this channel
NICE! Thank you for the shout out and, of course, your business!!! You're also the first guy to use that bottle opener properly. Using your thumb to push up, was EXACTLY how its intended to be used. What infill did you use? We run them at 100... gives it a nice heft and when we give them out at trade shows (sometime in 2021 we hope), we think they'll be well received.
Thanks man, you saved my life. I was starting to print in ASA and the recomenadtion was this upgrade and now with your tutorial i'm 100% sure how to do that change, thanks from México.
Would love to see you upgrade the ender v2 with the micro swiss direct drive extruder. In any case I think this is the first youtube comment I've ever made. That's just how much I appreciated this video. The technical instruction combined with very helpful camera angles makes for a 10/10 video.
Hi William! I've been thinking of doing that. I'll need to either find or design something to adapt the V2's fan shroud to fit the mounting holes for the old-style fan shroud, since the hole patterns are different. So far the only thing I've seen is a little mount that kind of holds one of the fans in place, and then you glue the second fan onto the first one. That's very utilitarian, and seems kind of fragile. So maybe early 2021? Also, thanks for your comment! 👍
@@BV3D Looking forward to it! Popular printer and upgrade. Just set mine up and currently tooling through some under-extrusion problems. And I used the thingverse print of the ender 3 pro shroud for mine, albeit I do plan on finding something better eventually.
I may pick up one of those direct drive kits. I like that there's an upgrade path if you already have the hot end. And if you don't, you can get the complete kit. 👍
I just upgraded my hotend to all metal hotend on Ender 3V2. I am using Cura 4.11. I mostly run PLA a little PETG. I was wondering what you are using for retraction distance and retraction speed settings? Is there anything else I need to change?
Nice video. Might suggest using the cool down feature that allows the fan to cool the hotend. Helps keep the filament from cramming and jamming. Otherwise great work as usual sir.
What about firmware if the hot end is replaced? What do we do here for temperature calibration? What is the max temp of the stock heater? Also how do we adjust retraction setting? This is not covered and I feel it's an important step that's left out of this video and needs to be acknowledge when following this upgrade. Can you do a follow up video because I haven't seen one yet.
You should also mention the need to drastically reduce rettacts and also change the way to do filament chsnges. Basically you should NEVER retract filament more than 1mm or so else you get clogs in the heat break
Interesting comments on the temperatures.and fumes I run a prusa mini and an i3 and the standard temperatures for petg is 250C. Both printers handle polycarbonate and carbon infused with ease. One is a bowden tube and the other direct drive but I am pretty sure the i3 is ptfe lined. No warnings from prusa about fumes from the tubing at high temps lol. Thanks for the video. Have one of these on the way for the ender extender project!
Hi! While a premium PTFE tube is nice (they're usually more precise on the inside diameter), it's not necessary for this hot end. The tip of the PTFE tube only goes into the heat sink a couple of millimeters, so it doesn't get hot enough to get damaged even at 250-260˚C.
Hi Bryan I have a Micro Swiss All metal Hot End on my Ender 3 and use a Micro Swiss A2 plated Wear Resistant Nozzle which i fully recommend especially when printing with Glow in the Dark Filament!
Put this on my CR-10S (heavily modded) and never looked back, its a Ferrari of a hot end and can let you print anything your heater let you. I'm killing it with nylon & PC granted I have a 750 watt AC heated bed. Love it, love it, love it.
Good morning, Mr. B. I just started watching your channel, would you have a video on replacing the hotend of a Sunlu S8 with the same part? Thank you kindly, I hope all is well.
Hi! I cannot be 100% certain, but the images I've seen of the Neptune 2 hot end look exactly like the hot end on the Ender-3 series, so in all likelihood it would work.
Great video as usual! What would be nice is a video explaining how to modify the firmware to increase the nozzle tempature limit for printing high temp filaments such as Nylon etc beyond stock 260c.
Hi Bryan, loving the stuff you put on. Helped me loads. Question, on your Ender 3V2 you have a different assembly for the spool holder pointing forward. Its great, where can I get the .STL files to print it.
Looking at getting this printer as my first printer. Love the upgrade. Would love to see an upgrade video of the fan you would use instead of the stock fan. Is the spool an upgrade or did you just put it in a different place? Thanks for your help and love the videos.
I have one of these and generally love it with one exception. Micro Swiss refuses to add an M3/M4 threaded hole for a thermistor cartridge. If you want to print above 260, it's a no-go. The glass bead ntc thermistors have ptfe insulation on the conductors. If you want a to go hotter, you need a cartridge thermistor and micro swiss refuses to add a port for one. I am looking for a clone heater block with the port for a cannister. VERY annoying for such an expensive hot end.
Hello Bryan, thank you very much for all you are doing. You are a big reason I bought my Ender 3 V2. Since it has been almost 2 years since you published this video, is this still the best all around All Metal Hot End for the V2?
Just installed it yesterday. Needs a little bit tuning for retraction, and parts cooler fan adjustment as it blows too much towards the heat block which causes excessive stringing. I printed a new duct with lower flow to parts that fits on the stock fan (no fan used when printing it out), and this fixed all the excessive stringing.
Hi sounds like an easy upgrade that you don't need to update the firmware. I have updated the firmware many many times on my tevo tornado printer. But I just bought the Ender 3 max printer so I could actually print something. I keep having issue with under or no extrusion on my Ender 3 Max. I just installed a zesty nimble to this printer. Then I saw that I broke the thermistor wire. Bummer. ? - can I do this upgrade on the Ender 3 Max? 2) have you tested the heat from the Micro Swiss hotend with a infrared thermometer? I would like to know your readings. I tried reading my stock hot end and the temp was all over the place but very low. ? - also, does the tubing go all the way into the hotend? If not I'd like to know how you handle stringing? I install a E3D hotend on my Tevo and I can't get even close to getting rig of the stringing issue. I have tried different retraction speeds, etc. but nothing helps.
Hi Brian. Great video as always! I'm going to do this upgrade to my v2 but I'm wondering, would you recommend a direct drive all metal hot end or just the hot end? Thanks
Which material has better detail for miniatures, PLA or ABS? And if PLA has better detail and I print only with PLA, do I need this upgrade for better results than stock?
Does this particular hot end upgrade already come with the Micro Swiss direct drive upgrade or is it a different hot end and I’d have to buy this separately?
Teaching Tech has an extra step where he goes into the Marlin code and changes some settings. I'm not exactly sure why and he doesn't explain it very well. Do you know why TT would edit the PID tuning?
Question, aren't you supposed to back off one of the items and then tighten it when heated? I thought it was the nozzle. Go to till tight, back off like a full turn, heat, and then tighten.
In the two years since you posted this, nobody else, before or since, has posted a better explanation video for this. All of your Ender3 V-2 videos are top quality. Thank you, sir!
For fral
"At about 240C some PETG will start to deform" - Brian, this is the BEST advice I've heard so far on why to switch to an All Metal Hot End.
I guess it's a typo but it's PTFE, not PETG. PETG usually fully melts at 240c
Once again. Nailed it. You are the Ender 3 expert on RUclips. Go Spurs!
Followed this guide and worked great. Just to note, I had to reduce my retraction to 4mm and increase my printing temp +5 degrees C to resolve an issue where my all metal hot end nozzle was becoming blocked when trying to print PLA on my normal settings. Might save someone a headache!
fanks
A year later, was the upgrade to an all metal hot end worth it?
I've been watching your videos for about a year now and you just seem like an all round really nice guy, and you put so much effort into your videos, even more than some of the larger channels, I admire that! Keep it up. Euan
I’m sure that changes when he accidentally touches the heating block
Love your dorkiness and 80s TV-Presenter-Style! 👍
The Bob Ross of 3D printers ❤️
I cant remember the video you talked about changing the max temp on an ender 3 max
Super video! I applauded for $2.00 👏
Hi Greg! I realize this is nearly a year late, but THANK YOU very much! RUclips rolled out this Applaud feature (now called Super Thanks) but, until very recently, didn't give creators an easy way to find them. Now they have, and I wanted to say I am grateful for your support!
Hi Bryan. Thank you for making it clear that the hot end and nozzle should be replaced if you're working with filaments that require higher melting temperatures. Some vloggers make it sound like a must, and it's not if you're printing with lower temperatures like those needed to melt PLA.
“Don’t over tighten the screw, the idea is to keep the (thermistor) wires in place without crushing them.”
You Sir are a life saver. And I’m a fool.
I couldn’t figure out why the printer would not boot up. Or alternately, reset in the middle of heating up. You only need it hold the thing in place, not pressure weld it into the block.
Could you share STL for PTFE tube cutter?
Thank you.I just installed one but was concerned that the bowden tube doesnt go in very far. You mention this and alleviated my worry. Much appreciated!
Can you please do a tutorial on how to change the mainboard and PSU fans on the Ev2 as they are the loudest. THANKS!
Hero Me Gen 5 after that!!!
I've been printing CF nylon with the stock hot end. Using a hardened steel nozzle and Capricorn bowden tubing. I'm printing it at 250 C.
Capricorn can be used at 260 C indefinitely.
I like that filament spool holder, it's both low and doesn't make the printer excessively wide.
Thanks!
You are super welcome! Thanks so much! 👍
Just placed my order! Cant wait for it to arrive!
Bro your gonna love it.. Just make sure it's put together tight, like tighten when its hot so you get no leakage! I just printed a carbon fiber wrench 🛠 😎
Thank you! I have successfully replaced my hot end on my Elegoo Neptune 2S with the Micro Swiss. It took me longer to think about it than to actually just do it. Your video made it so easy. Thank you!
Thank you for this video. Helped me install a new hot end on my ender3v2. Next up is installing the Aliminum extruder, then the BLTouch. Going to watch your other two videos now. Thank you and please keep making these videos for us beginners!! They really help out so much and are the best and thorough out there!
Damn, recently ordered a ender 3 V2 and I do want to upgrade some of the components, fortunately you seem to have got all the videos i need for the upgrades. Love this channel
Thanks so much
You are the Rick Baylis of 3d printing! Thank you!
I installed a Gulf Robotics hot end on mine, it's identical but costs about half the price.
NICE! Thank you for the shout out and, of course, your business!!! You're also the first guy to use that bottle opener properly. Using your thumb to push up, was EXACTLY how its intended to be used. What infill did you use? We run them at 100... gives it a nice heft and when we give them out at trade shows (sometime in 2021 we hope), we think they'll be well received.
Hey why don’t you make the cups more bigger the one you selling is to small for me I really enjoy drinking coffee. Great video by the way thumbs up!!
Thanks man, you saved my life. I was starting to print in ASA and the recomenadtion was this upgrade and now with your tutorial i'm 100% sure how to do that change, thanks from México.
That green color is amazing. Thanks for the vid!
Would love to see you upgrade the ender v2 with the micro swiss direct drive extruder. In any case I think this is the first youtube comment I've ever made. That's just how much I appreciated this video. The technical instruction combined with very helpful camera angles makes for a 10/10 video.
Hi William! I've been thinking of doing that. I'll need to either find or design something to adapt the V2's fan shroud to fit the mounting holes for the old-style fan shroud, since the hole patterns are different. So far the only thing I've seen is a little mount that kind of holds one of the fans in place, and then you glue the second fan onto the first one. That's very utilitarian, and seems kind of fragile. So maybe early 2021? Also, thanks for your comment! 👍
@@BV3D Looking forward to it! Popular printer and upgrade. Just set mine up and currently tooling through some under-extrusion problems. And I used the thingverse print of the ender 3 pro shroud for mine, albeit I do plan on finding something better eventually.
When will you make video on installing micro swiss extruder and hotend on the ender 3 v2? I need it please.
Nearly a year after this has been made: just used this to guide my installation. Thank you!
Love seeing Wera tools! Very nice
Randomly looked on your shirt, and instantly loved it :D
Great video!
One time I want you to slip up and say... “I’m Casey Kasem”
"Keep reaching for the stars, but keep your feet on the ground. Or you'll float off into space and die a horrible, painful death."
Best thing for any Ender printer. Thanks! Love mine!
I've been very happy with the Micro Swiss products, too! 🙂
Another great video Bryan. I love my microswiss complete extruder kit for the 3 Pro. It is amazing and prints great...
I may pick up one of those direct drive kits. I like that there's an upgrade path if you already have the hot end. And if you don't, you can get the complete kit. 👍
Great video! Subscribed!
Easy to follow instructions. Nice video mate!
I just upgraded my hotend to all metal hotend on Ender 3V2. I am using Cura 4.11. I mostly run PLA a little PETG. I was wondering what you are using for retraction distance and retraction speed settings? Is there anything else I need to change?
Nice video. Might suggest using the cool down feature that allows the fan to cool the hotend. Helps keep the filament from cramming and jamming. Otherwise great work as usual sir.
What about firmware if the hot end is replaced?
What do we do here for temperature calibration?
What is the max temp of the stock heater?
Also how do we adjust retraction setting?
This is not covered and I feel it's an important step that's left out of this video and needs to be acknowledge when following this upgrade.
Can you do a follow up video because I haven't seen one yet.
Great video. I'm interested in the side mounted spool holder. Do you have a video or something about that mod?
Thank you very much, that helped me like nothing else! ♥
Very thorough description of the process, thank you!
Bi-metal heatbreak from Trianglelab + Arctc MX-4 on cold end could be a reasonably better choice.
Exceptional instructional video!
You should also mention the need to drastically reduce rettacts and also change the way to do filament chsnges. Basically you should NEVER retract filament more than 1mm or so else you get clogs in the heat break
1mm? Bull. 4 minimum. Usual 5-6
@@dugy40 I'm running mine at 0.9 with no issues.
Your videos are fantastic, thank you so much!
I have the MicroSwiss on the Borg with the 0.8mm hardened nozzle and it prints great. It's fed by the Bondtech BMG extruder, great team.
As always, super clear instructions! I am currently running my microswiss with a 0.8 and it’s doing great!
Interesting comments on the temperatures.and fumes I run a prusa mini and an i3 and the standard temperatures for petg is 250C. Both printers handle polycarbonate and carbon infused with ease. One is a bowden tube and the other direct drive but I am pretty sure the i3 is ptfe lined. No warnings from prusa about fumes from the tubing at high temps lol. Thanks for the video. Have one of these on the way for the ender extender project!
Great videos bryan.im new to the space and your videos are very easy to follow along with
Going to need a link for that shirt!
I love the Micro Swiss hotend. I like the E3D V6 even better
Thanks for sharing your process to all.
Thanks for sharing :-)
Great video! If I upgrade to an all metal hotend, do I need a better ptfe tube (carpricorn for example?) to go up to 250-260 or not?
Hi! While a premium PTFE tube is nice (they're usually more precise on the inside diameter), it's not necessary for this hot end. The tip of the PTFE tube only goes into the heat sink a couple of millimeters, so it doesn't get hot enough to get damaged even at 250-260˚C.
@@BV3D nice, thanks for the clarification :)
Thanks for the video. Quality content.
Great video. Ever thought about trying out an E3D V6 on the Ender 3?
Hi Bryan I have a Micro Swiss All metal Hot End on my Ender 3 and use a Micro Swiss A2 plated Wear Resistant Nozzle which i fully recommend especially when printing with Glow in the Dark Filament!
Thank you! Just upgraded my Ender using this vid. Works perfect!
Put this on my CR-10S (heavily modded) and never looked back, its a Ferrari of a hot end and can let you print anything your heater let you. I'm killing it with nylon & PC granted I have a 750 watt AC heated bed. Love it, love it, love it.
Good morning, Mr. B. I just started watching your channel, would you have a video on replacing the hotend of a Sunlu S8 with the same part? Thank you kindly, I hope all is well.
Bryan do you know of any conversion kits for the Ender or CR printers to allow the fitting of a volcano or V6 hotend?
Is there a video about your way to attach the filament spool to the printer? I like it very much!
Thanks Bryan, another great video
Thank you, James! 😀
Great video thanks Brian. Is this also compatible on the Elegoo Neptune 2? I'm inclined to think it is.. your input would be appreciated
Hi! I cannot be 100% certain, but the images I've seen of the Neptune 2 hot end look exactly like the hot end on the Ender-3 series, so in all likelihood it would work.
@@BV3D Thanks for the response and the great videos
Hi Brian, thank you. Do you have a link to the spool holder you are using here? Looks perfect to me
Great video as usual!
What would be nice is a video explaining how to modify the firmware to increase the nozzle tempature limit for printing high temp filaments such as Nylon etc beyond stock 260c.
I would like to know that also
Me 3
What is the best 3d printer for lithopanes ?
Your vid had me rolling I think I’ll have to watch it again I was laughing to hard . Awesome ty for the info
you saved the day again Bryan, thank you so much!
Should you upgrade the Bowen tube to a Capricorn tube? Thanks for sharing.
thank you! Saved me a ton of time and pain :)
Great as usual! Is there any type of PID or other tuning that needs to be done after changing hot ends?
Brian could you tell me where I can find the stl files for the front loading spools please
Hi Bryan, loving the stuff you put on. Helped me loads. Question, on your Ender 3V2 you have a different assembly for the spool holder pointing forward. Its great, where can I get the .STL files to print it.
Love your videos! Thanks!
Commenting again because this was gods work thank you
Looking at getting this printer as my first printer. Love the upgrade. Would love to see an upgrade video of the fan you would use instead of the stock fan. Is the spool an upgrade or did you just put it in a different place? Thanks for your help and love the videos.
Is it a big must to upgrade the hotend??
Who many here has the z axis upgrade? The block that sits on top of the rod. Does it make a different?
Sooooo .. all nice and dandy stuff in this video ...
But my 5 yo daughter just wants to know where you can buy that T-shirt !
I have one of these and generally love it with one exception. Micro Swiss refuses to add an M3/M4 threaded hole for a thermistor cartridge. If you want to print above 260, it's a no-go. The glass bead ntc thermistors have ptfe insulation on the conductors. If you want a to go hotter, you need a cartridge thermistor and micro swiss refuses to add a port for one. I am looking for a clone heater block with the port for a cannister. VERY annoying for such an expensive hot end.
Thanks for sharing.
Bro this tutorial is amazing
Does this eliminate heat creep or back pressure from when the tube separates away from the nozzle. Is Luke’s hot end fix needed in short. ? Thank you
Hello Bryan, thank you very much for all you are doing. You are a big reason I bought my Ender 3 V2. Since it has been almost 2 years since you published this video, is this still the best all around All Metal Hot End for the V2?
Will this work on aquila?
Great! I have it on order with the discount! Can you recommend a starting point for retraction with the Micro Swiss?
Just installed it yesterday. Needs a little bit tuning for retraction, and parts cooler fan adjustment as it blows too much towards the heat block which causes excessive stringing. I printed a new duct with lower flow to parts that fits on the stock fan (no fan used when printing it out), and this fixed all the excessive stringing.
Do you have a link for that fan shroud? Mine broke😂
Can You Print Polycarbonate???
Thanks
Hi sounds like an easy upgrade that you don't need to update the firmware. I have updated the firmware many many times on my tevo tornado printer. But I just bought the Ender 3 max printer so I could actually print something. I keep having issue with under or no extrusion on my Ender 3 Max. I just installed a zesty nimble to this printer. Then I saw that I broke the thermistor wire. Bummer. ? - can I do this upgrade on the Ender 3 Max? 2) have you tested the heat from the Micro Swiss hotend with a infrared thermometer? I would like to know your readings. I tried reading my stock hot end and the temp was all over the place but very low. ? - also, does the tubing go all the way into the hotend? If not I'd like to know how you handle stringing? I install a E3D hotend on my Tevo and I can't get even close to getting rig of the stringing issue. I have tried different retraction speeds, etc. but nothing helps.
No support screws for the heater block.
Double edged sword I guess.
Less heat travel but easier to damage hotend when tightening nizzle
What do you do when your hot end doesn't have any screws?
There is a microscopic set screw that holds the heater and thermistor.
Hi Brian. Great video as always! I'm going to do this upgrade to my v2 but I'm wondering, would you recommend a direct drive all metal hot end or just the hot end? Thanks
is this going to be compatable with the ender 3 MAX? it states on the box ender 3 and ender 3 pro....??
The heater cartridge will not budge on my old gear lock how can I get this out? Any ideas I feel I may break it if I give it mick more force
Do you know life of the nozzle before you have to replace? Thanks
Which material has better detail for miniatures, PLA or ABS?
And if PLA has better detail and I print only with PLA, do I need this upgrade for better results than stock?
Does this particular hot end upgrade already come with the Micro Swiss direct drive upgrade or is it a different hot end and I’d have to buy this separately?
Teaching Tech has an extra step where he goes into the Marlin code and changes some settings. I'm not exactly sure why and he doesn't explain it very well. Do you know why TT would edit the PID tuning?
How do we change the jyers to show higher temp than 260 available for temp after upgrade?
Question, aren't you supposed to back off one of the items and then tighten it when heated? I thought it was the nozzle. Go to till tight, back off like a full turn, heat, and then tighten.