It’s a wonderful service you offer, and I’m grateful you’re extending the lifespan of these tube amps, in fear of what comes of the future. I learn a lot by your explanations, you have a knack for details. Thanks again.
Thank you for this amazing video! Liked and new subscriber! I have an RD100H as well and really learned a lot about my amp. Getting ready to replace my preamp tubes but have no idea what sockets are V1, V2, V3, V4, and which # is the phase inverter. Any chance you would mind helping with that info?
Randall makes decent amps. I've had to replace all "Pissvane" tubes encountered in the preamp or PI position. Maybe ok in the V2 in a pinch. Western Electric here in the US is currently making 300B tubes and plans to expand. A matched pair of their 300B's costs $1500.00 US though. Yikes.!! Plus, they are mainly audiophile tubes. The world is in desperate need of more competition to hopefully bring prices back down. I have had good luck with the Tung-Sol 12ax7's as well as the Russian Mullard 12ax7's more than any others. Tube brands have always been subject to change through the years though. They don't seem to reject the bad/poor ones anymore like they used to. A good supplier is as important as a good mechanic these days. T.A.D. seems to rule that as of now in my opinion.
The guys supposedly trying to kickstart GE have been saying that since the mid 90's. They come out and ask for capital, then go away for another decade or so, unfortunately.
@@BradsGuitarGarage The only big move that WE ever made toward small tube production was buying Ei without realizing that they were also buying all the obligations to their employees. Supposedly the machinery got scrapped, and that's the whole reason Ei doesn't exist anymore. I wouldn't trust any claim that WE makes until they're already producing.
@@RudolfWolph True. I filled out their online questionnaire of what tubes would you like to see them manufacture. I won't hold my breath though lol. I think they only do the 300B's because they can do low volume for a big profit margin and incorporate them in their audiophile tube amp, the 91E, priced for a Saudi prince lol.
Oh, those old GE 6L6 tubes you mentioned had getters on the side instead of on the top, and the shape wasn't a ring. If the flash goes away and you're looking for a halo getter, it'll look like it never had one.
I got one of these amps, when played at “bedroom” level the amp has a tendency to jump in volume. I took it in for a look see but it came back as, “ohh the tubes” need replacing, so it was but the volume jump still persists. What I’ve noticed is when the amp is cranked it doesn’t do that jump but rather plays aggressively like I like. What ideas do you have that might be the low volume jump culprit? I’d like to have your take thanks.
Grab a short patch lead and use it to bypass the FX loop. Plug one end into the send and the other into the return. If this fixes it, you likely need the FX loop jacks replaced.
I have a problem, I can't get the amp out of the case. I can't push it backwards on the input side. The other side is no problem at all. Screws are loose ;)
I literally just took my RD100H apart for a cleaning and servicing last night. Did you get the large screws from the bottom out? Did you take the front baffle completely off? The housing wont budge if not. If you look in the rear of the amp towards the front, there are 4 screws near the transformers holding that front baffle on. 2 on the far left side and 2 on the far right. There is also 1 screw in the center top. 5 screws total holding that front baffle on from the INSIDE of the case. You will need a long Philips screwdriver to get them out. Pull the amp out through the rear. It helps to have a second person at this point if possible to hold the case so it doesn't move while you're trying to get the amp out. Lift up on the amp housing at an angle from the rear using the transformers and start wiggling. It should start to budge. After it's loose, try to lift it up just enough to clear the shielding paper so it doesn't get torn up. The amp is sitting on it so clearing it as much as possible makes it easier to get the amp out and . There is not a lot of clearance because of the wood on each side so it can take a few minutes to get out. Reinstall in the reverse order above, and don't be afraid to give that front baffle a little smack on the corners if it's being stubborn to line it back up with the amp housing before putting the front baffle screws back on, it's a tight fit. If you didn't already get it out, hope this helps!
G'day cobber! I have worked in production, and testing could be 1 in 10, or 1 in 10,000 so depending on how strict quality control is, the better or worse the final product will be.
That tube retainer caused damage definitely is a bad thing. I never ever use any tube retainers which are in direct contact with class envelope of power tubes or rectifier tubes.
The soldering at pins 4 and 5 of one of those Ruby tubes looks pretty poor (you can see a hollow inside the pins). I have seen Chinese octal-base output tubes made with leadfree solder where the pins were badly soldered and intermittent; if you lost the connection inside pin 4 the tube wouldn't have any screen voltage, and if you lost the connection at pin 5 you would lose not just grid signal but negative bias voltage as well, leading to an overheated tube In a fixed bias amp.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , Yes I saw that as well. That was a first for me, Ive never seen a pin pull out of a miniature tube like that! (I work with NOS tubes, and only occasionally have to use Russian or Chinese tubes). This is evidence of some pretty shitty manufacturing.....
They are the worst I've had. 10/10 with issues. Then the Psvane EL34's are the most consistent I've had ever. So weird how they get some so right, and some so very very wrong!
Yes, I'm aware of that, but so far, they've been fantastic and supposedly built to TAD spec, but who knows these days with how opaque and scummy the whole market is.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Yeah, absolutely. I've heard good things about the redbases as well, and I'd still probably go with them (and TAD) over JJs which also have reliability issues... there's no good answer right now. It felt like maybe the redbases were going to be a new safe place, but the psvanes aren't helping. ;-) Hopefully it's just a learning curve from supposedly rebuilding post-Shuguang.
Que tipo de fusible pondrías en los cátodos..?? Estoy pensando en poner en mi ampli Clon Marshall Plexi 50w, viendo la basura de tubos que se fabrican ahora.
Man that really sucks about those tubes... seems like ever since that Chinese factory burned down, everyone else still making tubes has been drastically dropping quality to increase quantity... can't even figure out who to turn to.
Its not just garages that are poorly made these days it almost every fecking thing. That wiring drives my OCD mad. 😡 After spending a month as an apprentice learning different ways to loom. I dont know why they dont fit some sort of dust filter, even if it needs adding a small fan to improve air flow.
Have no idea why people do not take care of the gear they own? All that was needed was a cover and if you do not have one for your amp just put a damn sheet or something over it and that would take care of 95% of all that crap. I do not know about you, but I am far from rich and take care of my gear the best that I can.
Nice vid Brad, being a tech, I share your frustration. WRT WES: I've had mixed results with their valves, 4 x TAD red base 'matched' 1 was 35% off, other quads have been OK. Semiconductors ...be very careful, many fake power semis that will blow up at the first opportunity. Notice that they stock many obsolete semi's that no one else can get..... Another source of valves is CE Distribution. WRT valve testers, some of the better ones will test for shorts and leakage powered up. I just finished repairing / overhauling a Military Hickok Cardmatic 118A. Pretty complex tester but 'Rolls Royce' among testers. ruclips.net/video/gtpQSiijmho/видео.html
This sounds sooooo good. I think this amp has a lot more versatility than people expect. Love the tone too.
It’s a wonderful service you offer, and I’m grateful you’re extending the lifespan of these tube amps, in fear of what comes of the future. I learn a lot by your explanations, you have a knack for details. Thanks again.
Thank you for this amazing video! Liked and new subscriber! I have an RD100H as well and really learned a lot about my amp. Getting ready to replace my preamp tubes but have no idea what sockets are V1, V2, V3, V4, and which # is the phase inverter. Any chance you would mind helping with that info?
Randall makes decent amps. I've had to replace all "Pissvane" tubes encountered in the preamp or PI position. Maybe ok in the V2 in a pinch. Western Electric here in the US is currently making 300B tubes and plans to expand. A matched pair of their 300B's costs $1500.00 US though. Yikes.!! Plus, they are mainly audiophile tubes. The world is in desperate need of more competition to hopefully bring prices back down. I have had good luck with the Tung-Sol 12ax7's as well as the Russian Mullard 12ax7's more than any others. Tube brands have always been subject to change through the years though. They don't seem to reject the bad/poor ones anymore like they used to. A good supplier is as important as a good mechanic these days. T.A.D. seems to rule that as of now in my opinion.
The guys supposedly trying to kickstart GE have been saying that since the mid 90's.
They come out and ask for capital, then go away for another decade or so, unfortunately.
@@BradsGuitarGarage The only big move that WE ever made toward small tube production was buying Ei without realizing that they were also buying all the obligations to their employees.
Supposedly the machinery got scrapped, and that's the whole reason Ei doesn't exist anymore. I wouldn't trust any claim that WE makes until they're already producing.
@@RudolfWolph True. I filled out their online questionnaire of what tubes would you like to see them manufacture. I won't hold my breath though lol. I think they only do the 300B's because they can do low volume for a big profit margin and incorporate them in their audiophile tube amp, the 91E, priced for a Saudi prince lol.
Oh, those old GE 6L6 tubes you mentioned had getters on the side instead of on the top, and the shape wasn't a ring. If the flash goes away and you're looking for a halo getter, it'll look like it never had one.
Yeah, I think that may have been the ones my mate was referring to.
@@BradsGuitarGarage TAD has a reproduction of the GE clear top 6L6 available, but it (like all their red base tubes) is made by psvane.
I got one of these amps, when played at “bedroom” level the amp has a tendency to jump in volume. I took it in for a look see but it came back as, “ohh the tubes” need replacing, so it was but the volume jump still persists. What I’ve noticed is when the amp is cranked it doesn’t do that jump but rather plays aggressively like I like. What ideas do you have that might be the low volume jump culprit? I’d like to have your take thanks.
Grab a short patch lead and use it to bypass the FX loop.
Plug one end into the send and the other into the return.
If this fixes it, you likely need the FX loop jacks replaced.
Nice Video , i have one RD100 too .
I have a problem, I can't get the amp out of the case. I can't push it backwards on the input side. The other side is no problem at all. Screws are loose ;)
I literally just took my RD100H apart for a cleaning and servicing last night. Did you get the large screws from the bottom out? Did you take the front baffle completely off? The housing wont budge if not. If you look in the rear of the amp towards the front, there are 4 screws near the transformers holding that front baffle on. 2 on the far left side and 2 on the far right. There is also 1 screw in the center top. 5 screws total holding that front baffle on from the INSIDE of the case. You will need a long Philips screwdriver to get them out.
Pull the amp out through the rear. It helps to have a second person at this point if possible to hold the case so it doesn't move while you're trying to get the amp out. Lift up on the amp housing at an angle from the rear using the transformers and start wiggling. It should start to budge. After it's loose, try to lift it up just enough to clear the shielding paper so it doesn't get torn up. The amp is sitting on it so clearing it as much as possible makes it easier to get the amp out and . There is not a lot of clearance because of the wood on each side so it can take a few minutes to get out.
Reinstall in the reverse order above, and don't be afraid to give that front baffle a little smack on the corners if it's being stubborn to line it back up with the amp housing before putting the front baffle screws back on, it's a tight fit. If you didn't already get it out, hope this helps!
G'day cobber! I have worked in production, and testing could be 1 in 10, or 1 in 10,000 so depending on how strict quality control is, the better or worse the final product will be.
That tube retainer caused damage definitely is a bad thing. I never ever use any tube retainers which are in direct contact with class envelope of power tubes or rectifier tubes.
The soldering at pins 4 and 5 of one of those Ruby tubes looks pretty poor (you can see a hollow inside the pins). I have seen Chinese octal-base output tubes made with leadfree solder where the pins were badly soldered and intermittent; if you lost the connection inside pin 4 the tube wouldn't have any screen voltage, and if you lost the connection at pin 5 you would lose not just grid signal but negative bias voltage as well, leading to an overheated tube In a fixed bias amp.
It was the PI tube pin 9. So the heater filament common pin.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , Yes I saw that as well. That was a first for me, Ive never seen a pin pull out of a miniature tube like that! (I work with NOS tubes, and only occasionally have to use Russian or Chinese tubes). This is evidence of some pretty shitty manufacturing.....
What an age we live in.
I got a few of the Psvane 12AX7's to try.......... 3 of 3 were disappointments. JJ is my default budget tube now. Those are generally OK.
They are the worst I've had. 10/10 with issues.
Then the Psvane EL34's are the most consistent I've had ever.
So weird how they get some so right, and some so very very wrong!
The fun thing is that the TAD red base tubes are also made by... psvane.
Yes, I'm aware of that, but so far, they've been fantastic and supposedly built to TAD spec, but who knows these days with how opaque and scummy the whole market is.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Yeah, absolutely. I've heard good things about the redbases as well, and I'd still probably go with them (and TAD) over JJs which also have reliability issues... there's no good answer right now. It felt like maybe the redbases were going to be a new safe place, but the psvanes aren't helping. ;-) Hopefully it's just a learning curve from supposedly rebuilding post-Shuguang.
Que tipo de fusible pondrías en los cátodos..?? Estoy pensando en poner en mi ampli Clon Marshall Plexi 50w, viendo la basura de tubos que se fabrican ahora.
Man that really sucks about those tubes... seems like ever since that Chinese factory burned down, everyone else still making tubes has been drastically dropping quality to increase quantity... can't even figure out who to turn to.
Haz el video de las válvulas. No te preocupes. tendrá seguimiento.
Its not just garages that are poorly made these days it almost every fecking thing.
That wiring drives my OCD mad. 😡 After spending a month as an apprentice learning different ways to loom.
I dont know why they dont fit some sort of dust filter, even if it needs adding a small fan to improve air flow.
Have no idea why people do not take care of the gear they own? All that was needed was a cover and if you do not have one for your amp just put a damn sheet or something over it and that would take care of 95% of all that crap. I do not know about you, but I am far from rich and take care of my gear the best that I can.
What's the riff? I like it
One of the best songs ever written off one of the best albums ever recorded: ruclips.net/video/Fc3-hwX7lOA/видео.html
Nice vid Brad, being a tech, I share your frustration.
WRT WES: I've had mixed results with their valves, 4 x TAD red base 'matched' 1 was 35% off, other quads have been OK. Semiconductors ...be very careful, many fake power semis that will
blow up at the first opportunity. Notice that they stock many obsolete semi's that no one else can get..... Another source of valves is CE Distribution.
WRT valve testers, some of the better ones will test for shorts and leakage powered up. I just finished repairing / overhauling a Military Hickok Cardmatic 118A. Pretty complex tester but 'Rolls Royce' among testers. ruclips.net/video/gtpQSiijmho/видео.html
This thing is mega overpriced, goes for more than the 667 Monster that the KH103 was modelled off. So ridiculous.