Reassuring, did a self build yesterday swapping out shafts then grips on my new clubs using the leader board website and feel, 4-PW All coming out at D4 for 4-6 and D5 7-W so happy thats now quite accurate 😁
Hi AJ, great name! I am AJ as well. Thank you for this video. You just saved me from buying a swingweight scale. I really appreciate it. Love your videos and informative style.
But it really is so easy to use a swing weight machine/scale. I've had mine for over thirty years and I just have to have. But there is the other way, as long as you can get your clubs to feel similar, it makes for a better set of clubs.
I've been using learderboard for the past year and I figured things were fairly close as most irons were right on spec with manufacturer's specs. To do my balance point, I had a small piece of aluminum angle leftover from a project. So I used that as a very accurate spot to find balance point.
Just wanted to stop by and thank you so much for this video. I just used the calculators you mentioned to set up my new driver to have the same swing weight as my previous driver. Much appreciated!
Thanks for posting this. I've cut down and lengthened some drivers and used the Leaderboard calculator without having any way to compare against a scale hoping the calculations were at least in the ballpark. It's nice to finally have some confirmation. Wish I'd have thought to look here sooner.
Great video again. You do an amazing job explaining the lingo about golf clubs in a very easy to understand way. Providing practical means for golfers to do these things at home. The visual applications have really helped me advance my knowledge! Thank You!
I just did a refit with Titleist 2019 T-200 heads and I went from the stock shaft of 115 g down to 95 g so I lost two swing weight points. However I wanted them absolutely accurate and the Polish website for me was perfect. It was bang on accurate
I've been doing the diy way on all my clubs (a lot) and it's accurate enough for me - Weigh total on kitchen scale first, then - lol balance it on my finger with 1 hand/ Measure to the butt on a tape with the other.....minus 14 inch I don't even bother with the internet calculator - just multiply the 2 numbers then reference the chart you can print out.
This is awesome. I had my swing weights calculated at a golf shop for $5 per club. They ranged from D5 to D1.5. I like the heavier so now I can add lead tape and figure this out and save the money. Love this. Thank you.
I’ve tested that on the tour van and have found Excellent results for what it says estimator I found down to a half a swing weight is very easy to obtain
Great video-Thank you. Maybe you could show us a way we could measure the over all length of our driver/3 wood/5 wood or irons from home with a tape measure. Seems like everyone measures clubs a little differently and can be off up to an inch!
Interesting video and I enjoyed it AJ I have a Golfworks scale, it’s their middle of the road one about $80. It’s probably about 20 years old, survived a few moves. Last major move I lost the end cap on the balance beam. I’ve been using coins or paper clips inside the beam to set the “0” Still Works great.
I’ve used Leaderboard and it seems good. Imperial and metric calculations. It is effectively the mathematical representation of the swing weight balance tool so it should be extremely accurate......subject to the accuracy of your scale and tape measure!
True. I altered a couple of the length measurements after just to see how close you needed to be and it seems that within 2mm it was still plenty accurate.
I've used the balance point method, scale method, and an indepth spreadsheet... All were close...but I had more confidence in the spreadsheet (requires a 0.1 gram scale )
Excellent. This is going to save me $$. I’ve always used the Leaderboard with my metal ruler and a wedge. But I’ve never used cm, only mm. Going to try that, but really, I’m just a weekend golfer and probably couldn’t tell if it was off by 1 or 2 points. If it’s in the ballpark I’m good! Thanks
While on this subject I would love to see a video on swing weight and how the different components (lighter grips) affect it. With driver adjustability and weighting, it's easy to mess with SW without realizing how much and how quick things can change...
All things being equal, how accurately the swing weight scale you own was built: fulcrum pt exactly at 17 inches from end, counter weight exact weight required , scales printed at exactly the right location on the arm, etc ? All manufacturing processes incorporate tolerances; same probably applies to sw wt scales. Even mathematic calculations include tolerances, i.e. rounding to 1, or 2 or 3 digits after the point...Swing weight has a relative importance in club making, but one must not go crazy with details. I do not think any golfer will feel a difference between let's say C8 and C9 or even D0 and D2. That having been said, your comparison study was very interesting. Happy camper, learned something new today ! THK's
Better use the MOI (moment of inertia) measurement.: take the raw shaft without the grip and join it with the club head without glueing them. Then messure the weight of the club hanging it as close as possible to the club head and let the but end rest on something as far from the the club end as the planned length of the club. Write down the weight in kg (smthng like 0,250 kg). The multiply the length in cm (LxL x o,250) and you get a figure something close 3000. That is MOI of the club with these parameters.
Not dumb at all. Really depends on the golfer. Some care / can feel the differences, some can't or don't. SW is really about matching the feel of all your irons although many people try and match up the SW through all the clubs in the bag. All my SWs are in a general range from D0-D4 through the bag but not all the same. In the end, SW is only one way to measure and of limited value. You can have a driver and a PW with the same SW, but they really won't "feel" the same.
Great content, thanks so much. Do you know which modern manufacturers match the swing weights when assembling a new set of clubs and which don’t? And which swing weight do they use?
They all should be, or at least say they do. Usually an iron set will run around D2 and up to D3 or D4 in the 9 and wedge for a steel mens set. Women's and graphite will be less usually. Men's clubs usually seem to default to D2 with woods, hybrids, and irons. Wedges get heavier.
@@EFGMC thanks for that AJ. I have just ordered my first new set since 1995, I have been playing with a set of Top Flite Tour irons which have been great and have now been fitted for and ordered a set of Mizuno 921 HM Pro. Amazingly the best shaft for me is still pretty much the same as in my old clubs, a Tru Temper Dynamic Gold R300 but the weight has changed slightly.
I'm now checking all of my clubs as well as regripping them. I'm interested in the most accurate calculators because I have good scales and measures. I wish you'd shared the weights and lengths for your clubs here, so I could check the calculator I'm using now--against your proper swingweight scale. I suppose I can "reverse engineer" it out close enough. I'm trying various grips because I've never tried bigger grips/wraps for my large hands. Fresh grips feel so great. Somehow I landed on Hirekogolf calculator.
Question /////// I have many iron sets in my garage. I just purchased a set of PXG irons. I played terrible with them. Just did not feel right. I set out an EIGHT Iron each. Ping i3 / Mizunos / Taylormades and the PXGs. The Mizunos gave me the best striking results. I could feel the head the best through out the swing. I found the balance point on each club's shaft by suspending the club on a string. The distances from the top of the grip to the balance point were off by 3-4 inches when comparing each Eight iron. My question is, Is this Balance point somehow related to Swing weight? Thank you,
Yes it is. The balance point moving is evidence of the SW changing. This can happen because of head weight differences, shaft length, shaft weight, shaft balance point, or grip weight. Probably not a bad idea to take static weight measurements of all the clubs and see how those numbers compare with the results you got hitting them.
A couple of questions if you please. First, should the swing weight be progressive throughout the set, i.e., lob wedge be the heaviest, 5 iron be the lightest? Or should the sw be consistent throughout the set. Second, how is target swing weight calculated from raw components, i.e., uncut shaft, head and grip before assembly?
I use a progressive SW set up like you describe where the longest irons are a bit lighter and the wedges are a bit heavier. That seems to work well for the majority of golfers. I don't know of a calculation to get SW from raw components. If you can dry fit everything together before epoxying, you can get whatever measurements you need.
@@EFGMCThanks for your opinion on progressive SW. Yes I can dry fit everything before epoxying, I put the grips on with air vs adhesive grip tape. Only problem is the shaft is already cut. I guess if I start with the longest club, say 5 iron for discussion, and SW is too light, I can use the cut shaft on the 6 iron. Thanks for responding. Cheers!
Really great informative video! Just learning a bit about club making and after watching this video went and did a swing weight on all my clubs. Was quite surprised to find my swing weight for most of my irons were in the E2-E4 range, which seems really high! I am a really tall guy though at 6'6" and play +1.5 clubs. I've seen a lot of articles talk about an ideal swing weight being in the D1-D5 range, which is what you had yours at in a reshafting video you had done that I watched recently. What would be considered an 'ideal' swing weight, and would being taller make a difference in that regard?
It will be very difficult to get your setup (1 1/2 over) in the mid D swing weight range. The extra length basically adds around 9 SWPs. That only matters though if they feel too heavy to you. If you never noticed it before, I wouldn't worry about it. If you did want to lower it, options would be getting or making your iron heads lighter or going with a much lighter shaft, possibly counterbalanced.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the reply! I'm actually doing some work with my 7-Iron as the shaft broke on it a year ago and I had the local pro shop reshaft it. However the head came loose so I was using your video to learn how to epoxy it back on. I did notice when weighing the shaft that it was only 90 grams, which seems to be roughly 30 grams lighter than my other irons. I'm also planning to regrip it with a Golf Pride midsize MCC +4 grip, which is heavier than the grip I had on it. Anyway, we'll see how it feels after those adjustments. Your videos have been incredibly helpful in learning some of these club making techniques I would have never dared try before, so thank you so much for making this valuable information available to us!
Hi AJ. There are no specialty clubs on the market that I can find to hit a very low ball under trees that go say 150 meters. This is a shot most golfers experience every round and try to manufacture a griped down 4 iron or something similar with limited success. So I had an attempt to make one. I cut an old 1 iron down to 7 iron length and added considerable weight (fishing sinker) to the back of the head. It is very successful so far as I must have fluked the correct weight and iron length. Could you make a video for a specialty club to hit a very low ball to escape trees?
Quick question. I put strips of lead tape low on the back of my iron heads to make the SW (D0) on all of them. The problem I keep having is it keeps coming off, I’m assuming from ground contact. Would it be better to wrap it low around the hosel? I ask because it seems like that is were the weights go when you put them in the heads. Thanks
It usually not enough weight to make any difference where you put it.on an iron head. Are you putting the tape on the back of the head or on the sole. The tape shouldn't come off if you just put it across the back of the head.
@@EFGMC I’ve been putting it on the back not the sole. I have callaway mavrik’s so the back is not smooth. I think it’s just not sticking well enough. On average I’m adding 9-10 grams per club to bring it up from a C6/C7 to D0.
@@snakesvt Have you tried to really work it into the space with a hard rubber or plastic tool. The tape is quite malleable and should eventually stick if you can get enough surface contact.
Great vid! I’ve got a sim with a cb ust elements chrome and a Winn dri tac grip standard at 45 inches playing length and the calculator said I was in the high C range like C11 I think it was. Is it worth adding weight to head or is total weight being lighter more important? I hit it pretty well but I get some left misses every so often (I cut the ball very consistently)
Get some lead tape and put a couple 3 inch pieces on the back of the head. Then go try it and see how your body responds to the added weight. Might be better, might not. Only you can answer that question. If it doesn't work, just pull the tape back off.
So let say we have a swing weight of d3 and we want to make it d2 how much lead tape would be need attaching to the grip side to achieve d2 , now let say 5gr lead is 1 swing weight but if you put 5 gram extra on the grip and would you then have to read do the fulcrum measurement to get the correct swingweight . As i did this say starting at d3 with x amount gram weight of club and just kept altering the weight in the caculator till i got d2 then added the difference amout of grams to the grip but when i put it all in place then re did the full measurement after adding the lead and taking the fulcrum measurement again it was way out
First question is why are you wanting to get from D3 to D2? Assuming all your clubs are the same, D2 or D3 really won't make a difference. If you want to experiment with counterbalancing that's one thing, but adding weight to a golf club to make it lighter is usually not going to yield better results.
@EFGMC well my clubs are not all the same for whatever reason as i didnt build them and they are in the high c to d5 range so i will have to do something to get them all the same
On a similar subject but different note...how necessary is swing weight? I've hacked up some clubs in my garage and I've had both success and not so much success without ever taking swing weight into consideration which makes me feel like it's not that necessary a measurement as long as everything is built similarly. What's your take on this? An example is I had a set of Titleist AP2's with weight tips in the shaft but I reshafted them to a stiffer set and found more success and didn't really notice the difference between all the heads (who can feel 3-5g differences in their club heads?)
Some people will be more sensitive to it than others but I agree in many cases its not as important. I think having consistent weight through a set of irons is important and matching SWs usually indicates that though.
So when you do this are all your clubs supposed have the same number? Like say I start at PW and it’s D1 should every club in my back be D1? Is there a common weight clubs should be?
When you are measuring for length, you used a cut grip. Do you think you can just add .5 inch instead? Would that work because a grip is around .5 inch longer? Just a thought.
I usually do just add a bit of length in my head for total length, however it's a 1/4 inch. A grip cap add right around 1/4 inch to the end. If I am using the cut grip, it is to get a swing weight measurement.
MOI is basically just swing weight progression of .6 or .7 swing weight points per progressive iron so you should be able to use it to do a MOI matched set.
The hierko site I hope I spelled that correctly works with Microsoft edge web browser. If you try to use chrome or mozilla it will crash. I used it for my clubs and it worked very well.
Hi AJ. I know this is an old video but hoping you could help me. Using the swing weight calculators you recommend, all of my clubs come out to around E1. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong. For instance, my 7-iron weighs 435 grams and balance point to end of grip is 29.25. Appreciate any help. Thanks!
@@EFGMC Thanks AJ. Yes, I will get them checked with a SW scale. Oddly, they don't seem overly heavy, and I hit them well. The OEM specs list them as D2. Thanks again!
Either the heads are heavy or the shaft lengths are longer. I've had to get rid of head sets before because they were just too heavy for the build I needed.
I use golf okrasa..the length shall be measured up to the shaft end and not grip butt end..if u deduct the grip butt end maybe around 2mm to 3mm, ur sw point shall be lowered to 0.2 to 0.3 sw point per mm..based on this video the result shall be closer i guess if it was measured correctly
Have been using leaderboard for what seems like 20 years, and have had it checked periodically on a scale. The results have always been positive.
Reassuring, did a self build yesterday swapping out shafts then grips on my new clubs using the leader board website and feel, 4-PW All coming out at D4 for 4-6 and D5 7-W so happy thats now quite accurate 😁
Hi AJ, great name! I am AJ as well.
Thank you for this video. You just saved me from buying a swingweight scale. I really appreciate it.
Love your videos and informative style.
This is fantastic! I was considering purchasing a swing weight scale but now that won’t be necessary. Thank you!
Your local pro would probably do it for free...
But it really is so easy to use a swing weight machine/scale. I've had mine for over thirty years and I just have to have. But there is the other way, as long as you can get your clubs to feel similar, it makes for a better set of clubs.
I've been using learderboard for the past year and I figured things were fairly close as most irons were right on spec with manufacturer's specs. To do my balance point, I had a small piece of aluminum angle leftover from a project. So I used that as a very accurate spot to find balance point.
This is just what I'm needing, thank you so much for making the video!
Just wanted to stop by and thank you so much for this video. I just used the calculators you mentioned to set up my new driver to have the same swing weight as my previous driver. Much appreciated!
Thanks for posting this. I've cut down and lengthened some drivers and used the Leaderboard calculator without having any way to compare against a scale hoping the calculations were at least in the ballpark. It's nice to finally have some confirmation. Wish I'd have thought to look here sooner.
Been using the internet calculators for a while and glad to see they are accurate.
Great video again. You do an amazing job explaining the lingo about golf clubs in a very easy to understand way. Providing practical means for golfers to do these things at home. The visual applications have really helped me advance my knowledge! Thank You!
I just did a refit with Titleist 2019 T-200 heads and I went from the stock shaft of 115 g down to 95 g so I lost two swing weight points. However I wanted them absolutely accurate and the Polish website for me was perfect. It was bang on accurate
I've been doing the diy way on all my clubs (a lot) and it's accurate enough for me - Weigh total on kitchen scale first, then - lol balance it on my finger with 1 hand/ Measure to the butt on a tape with the other.....minus 14 inch
I don't even bother with the internet calculator - just multiply the 2 numbers then reference the chart you can print out.
This is awesome. I had my swing weights calculated at a golf shop for $5 per club. They ranged from D5 to D1.5. I like the heavier so now I can add lead tape and figure this out and save the money. Love this. Thank you.
I’ve tested that on the tour van and have found Excellent results for what it says estimator I found down to a half a swing weight is very easy to obtain
I actually built a little swing weight tool, with an old tape measure screwed to a 1x4 and a balance bar for measuring swing weights
Great video-Thank you. Maybe you could show us a way we could measure the over all length of our driver/3 wood/5 wood or irons from home with a tape measure. Seems like everyone measures clubs a little differently and can be off up to an inch!
Interesting video and I enjoyed it AJ
I have a Golfworks scale, it’s their middle of the road one about $80. It’s probably about 20 years old, survived a few moves. Last major move I lost the end cap on the balance beam. I’ve been using coins or paper clips inside the beam to set the “0”
Still Works great.
Love it.
I’ve used Leaderboard and it seems good. Imperial and metric calculations.
It is effectively the mathematical representation of the swing weight balance tool so it should be extremely accurate......subject to the accuracy of your scale and tape measure!
True. I altered a couple of the length measurements after just to see how close you needed to be and it seems that within 2mm it was still plenty accurate.
I've used the balance point method, scale method, and an indepth spreadsheet... All were close...but I had more confidence in the spreadsheet (requires a 0.1 gram scale )
Nicely done, you went about this the same way I would.. this did answer some questions.. thanks
Happy it was helpful!
Excellent ! : ) great tuition video thank you, constantly changing out shafts of my growing kids, and this has helped greatly..
Thanks. Glad it helps.
Excellent. This is going to save me $$. I’ve always used the Leaderboard with my metal ruler and a wedge. But I’ve never used cm, only mm. Going to try that, but really, I’m just a weekend golfer and probably couldn’t tell if it was off by 1 or 2 points. If it’s in the ballpark I’m good! Thanks
So how easy was that conversion from cm to mm? ;D 1cm = 10mm
While on this subject I would love to see a video on swing weight and how the different components (lighter grips) affect it. With driver adjustability and weighting, it's easy to mess with SW without realizing how much and how quick things can change...
If you haven't watched this vid from a couple months back, sort of covers what you're asking about.
ruclips.net/video/RFBiO68R9vE/видео.html
@@EFGMC Not sure how that one slipped through, thanks...
As always, another great video.
Another informative and interesting video, loving this series, thanks!
All things being equal, how accurately the swing weight scale you own was built: fulcrum pt exactly at 17 inches from end, counter weight exact weight required , scales printed at exactly the right location on the arm, etc ? All manufacturing processes incorporate tolerances; same probably applies to sw wt scales. Even mathematic calculations include tolerances, i.e. rounding to 1, or 2 or 3 digits after the point...Swing weight has a relative importance in club making, but one must not go crazy with details. I do not think any golfer will feel a difference between let's say C8 and C9 or even D0 and D2. That having been said, your comparison study was very interesting. Happy camper, learned something new today ! THK's
Totally agree. Very few people can tell 1 or 2 pt differences. Most important for me is just that all the irons have consistent sw.
Good to know information. Thanks for sharing A.J.
Hope it helps!
1 video I would like to see you do is on swing. Weight is what's the best swing weight for a younger golfer, an older golfer, our beginner golfer
1st comment - already watching it and ready to test everything - thank you!!!
Thanks Paul!
Thanks for another great video with tons of interesting and useful information AJ!
Thanks as always for the support!
Better use the MOI (moment of inertia) measurement.: take the raw shaft without the grip and join it with the club head without glueing them. Then messure the weight of the club hanging it as close as possible to the club head and let the but end rest on something as far from the the club end as the planned length of the club. Write down the weight in kg (smthng like 0,250 kg). The multiply the length in cm (LxL x o,250) and you get a figure something close 3000. That is MOI of the club with these parameters.
Great video AJ. Very informative 👍
Thank you sir!
Apologies if this question has been asked already... does every club have to be fitted with swing weights ? From irons up to driver ?
Not dumb at all. Really depends on the golfer. Some care / can feel the differences, some can't or don't. SW is really about matching the feel of all your irons although many people try and match up the SW through all the clubs in the bag. All my SWs are in a general range from D0-D4 through the bag but not all the same. In the end, SW is only one way to measure and of limited value. You can have a driver and a PW with the same SW, but they really won't "feel" the same.
Great content, thanks so much. Do you know which modern manufacturers match the swing weights when assembling a new set of clubs and which don’t? And which swing weight do they use?
Mizuno #1, Ping #2. The rest is a crap shoot.
They all should be, or at least say they do. Usually an iron set will run around D2 and up to D3 or D4 in the 9 and wedge for a steel mens set. Women's and graphite will be less usually. Men's clubs usually seem to default to D2 with woods, hybrids, and irons. Wedges get heavier.
@@EFGMC thanks for that AJ. I have just ordered my first new set since 1995, I have been playing with a set of Top Flite Tour irons which have been great and have now been fitted for and ordered a set of Mizuno 921 HM Pro. Amazingly the best shaft for me is still pretty much the same as in my old clubs, a Tru Temper Dynamic Gold R300 but the weight has changed slightly.
Very cool test. Thanks
This is a top golf information man.
Thanks Mark!
I'm now checking all of my clubs as well as regripping them. I'm interested in the most accurate calculators because I have good scales and measures. I wish you'd shared the weights and lengths for your clubs here, so I could check the calculator I'm using now--against your proper swingweight scale. I suppose I can "reverse engineer" it out close enough. I'm trying various grips because I've never tried bigger grips/wraps for my large hands. Fresh grips feel so great. Somehow I landed on Hirekogolf calculator.
Great video, AJ. Is your Swing Weight machine calibrated? If so, how is that done and my whom?
It's not. It's well good enough though as proved by the consistency against the SW calculators.
Great video. I’ve been using the leaderboard site so good to know. AJ where do you get your tip weights?
Thanks for watching!
Tip weights I usually get from Golfworks.
Great video. Very helpful
great video. very helpful
Question /////// I have many iron sets in my garage. I just purchased a set of PXG irons. I played terrible with them. Just did not feel right. I set out an EIGHT Iron each. Ping i3 / Mizunos / Taylormades and the PXGs. The Mizunos gave me the best striking results. I could feel the head the best through out the swing. I found the balance point on each club's shaft by suspending the club on a string. The distances from the top of the grip to the balance point were off by 3-4 inches when comparing each Eight iron. My question is, Is this Balance point somehow related to Swing weight? Thank you,
Yes it is. The balance point moving is evidence of the SW changing. This can happen because of head weight differences, shaft length, shaft weight, shaft balance point, or grip weight. Probably not a bad idea to take static weight measurements of all the clubs and see how those numbers compare with the results you got hitting them.
A couple of questions if you please. First, should the swing weight be progressive throughout the set, i.e., lob wedge be the heaviest, 5 iron be the lightest? Or should the sw be consistent throughout the set. Second, how is target swing weight calculated from raw components, i.e., uncut shaft, head and grip before assembly?
I use a progressive SW set up like you describe where the longest irons are a bit lighter and the wedges are a bit heavier. That seems to work well for the majority of golfers.
I don't know of a calculation to get SW from raw components. If you can dry fit everything together before epoxying, you can get whatever measurements you need.
@@EFGMCThanks for your opinion on progressive SW. Yes I can dry fit everything before epoxying, I put the grips on with air vs adhesive grip tape. Only problem is the shaft is already cut. I guess if I start with the longest club, say 5 iron for discussion, and SW is too light, I can use the cut shaft on the 6 iron. Thanks for responding. Cheers!
Really great informative video! Just learning a bit about club making and after watching this video went and did a swing weight on all my clubs. Was quite surprised to find my swing weight for most of my irons were in the E2-E4 range, which seems really high! I am a really tall guy though at 6'6" and play +1.5 clubs. I've seen a lot of articles talk about an ideal swing weight being in the D1-D5 range, which is what you had yours at in a reshafting video you had done that I watched recently. What would be considered an 'ideal' swing weight, and would being taller make a difference in that regard?
It will be very difficult to get your setup (1 1/2 over) in the mid D swing weight range. The extra length basically adds around 9 SWPs. That only matters though if they feel too heavy to you. If you never noticed it before, I wouldn't worry about it.
If you did want to lower it, options would be getting or making your iron heads lighter or going with a much lighter shaft, possibly counterbalanced.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the reply! I'm actually doing some work with my 7-Iron as the shaft broke on it a year ago and I had the local pro shop reshaft it. However the head came loose so I was using your video to learn how to epoxy it back on. I did notice when weighing the shaft that it was only 90 grams, which seems to be roughly 30 grams lighter than my other irons. I'm also planning to regrip it with a Golf Pride midsize MCC +4 grip, which is heavier than the grip I had on it. Anyway, we'll see how it feels after those adjustments. Your videos have been incredibly helpful in learning some of these club making techniques I would have never dared try before, so thank you so much for making this valuable information available to us!
Hi AJ. There are no specialty clubs on the market that I can find to hit a very low ball under trees that go say 150 meters. This is a shot most golfers experience every round and try to manufacture a griped down 4 iron or something similar with limited success. So I had an attempt to make one.
I cut an old 1 iron down to 7 iron length and added considerable weight (fishing sinker) to the back of the head.
It is very successful so far as I must have fluked the correct weight and iron length.
Could you make a video for a specialty club to hit a very low ball to escape trees?
Let me think about some ideas.
Quick question. I put strips of lead tape low on the back of my iron heads to make the SW (D0) on all of them. The problem I keep having is it keeps coming off, I’m assuming from ground contact. Would it be better to wrap it low around the hosel? I ask because it seems like that is were the weights go when you put them in the heads. Thanks
It usually not enough weight to make any difference where you put it.on an iron head. Are you putting the tape on the back of the head or on the sole. The tape shouldn't come off if you just put it across the back of the head.
@@EFGMC I’ve been putting it on the back not the sole. I have callaway mavrik’s so the back is not smooth. I think it’s just not sticking well enough. On average I’m adding 9-10 grams per club to bring it up from a C6/C7 to D0.
@@snakesvt Have you tried to really work it into the space with a hard rubber or plastic tool. The tape is quite malleable and should eventually stick if you can get enough surface contact.
Great vid! I’ve got a sim with a cb ust elements chrome and a Winn dri tac grip standard at 45 inches playing length and the calculator said I was in the high C range like C11 I think it was. Is it worth adding weight to head or is total weight being lighter more important? I hit it pretty well but I get some left misses every so often (I cut the ball very consistently)
Get some lead tape and put a couple 3 inch pieces on the back of the head. Then go try it and see how your body responds to the added weight. Might be better, might not. Only you can answer that question. If it doesn't work, just pull the tape back off.
Do a set of irons always match in swing weights. Are they off sometimes ?
Yes, they can be off. Just like any spec; weight, length, loft, lie. Any of them can be off to some degree.
So let say we have a swing weight of d3 and we want to make it d2 how much lead tape would be need attaching to the grip side to achieve d2 , now let say 5gr lead is 1 swing weight but if you put 5 gram extra on the grip and would you then have to read do the fulcrum measurement to get the correct swingweight . As i did this say starting at d3 with x amount gram weight of club and just kept altering the weight in the caculator till i got d2 then added the difference amout of grams to the grip but when i put it all in place then re did the full measurement after adding the lead and taking the fulcrum measurement again it was way out
First question is why are you wanting to get from D3 to D2? Assuming all your clubs are the same, D2 or D3 really won't make a difference. If you want to experiment with counterbalancing that's one thing, but adding weight to a golf club to make it lighter is usually not going to yield better results.
@EFGMC well my clubs are not all the same for whatever reason as i didnt build them and they are in the high c to d5 range so i will have to do something to get them all the same
Can I change the back weight on my M2 2016 driver. I’ve been told it’s pretty difficult and getting the weight
If you can find a replacement weight. You also need the right Torx wrench and often some heat as they loctite it.
On a similar subject but different note...how necessary is swing weight? I've hacked up some clubs in my garage and I've had both success and not so much success without ever taking swing weight into consideration which makes me feel like it's not that necessary a measurement as long as everything is built similarly. What's your take on this?
An example is I had a set of Titleist AP2's with weight tips in the shaft but I reshafted them to a stiffer set and found more success and didn't really notice the difference between all the heads (who can feel 3-5g differences in their club heads?)
Some people will be more sensitive to it than others but I agree in many cases its not as important. I think having consistent weight through a set of irons is important and matching SWs usually indicates that though.
So when you do this are all your clubs supposed have the same number? Like say I start at PW and it’s D1 should every club in my back be D1? Is there a common weight clubs should be?
When you are measuring for length, you used a cut grip. Do you think you can just add .5 inch instead? Would that work because a grip is around .5 inch longer? Just a thought.
I usually do just add a bit of length in my head for total length, however it's a 1/4 inch. A grip cap add right around 1/4 inch to the end. If I am using the cut grip, it is to get a swing weight measurement.
Could you do the same for moi swing weight?
MOI is basically just swing weight progression of .6 or .7 swing weight points per progressive iron so you should be able to use it to do a MOI matched set.
The hierko site I hope I spelled that correctly works with Microsoft edge web browser. If you try to use chrome or mozilla it will crash. I used it for my clubs and it worked very well.
Good to know. I tried both Safari and Firefox will no luck.
Hi AJ. I know this is an old video but hoping you could help me. Using the swing weight calculators you recommend, all of my clubs come out to around E1. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong. For instance, my 7-iron weighs 435 grams and balance point to end of grip is 29.25. Appreciate any help. Thanks!
What are the lengths and grips used?
@@EFGMC Total assembled 7-iron length is 37.5 inches with regular Tour Velvet grip 1/64" undersize.
@@jscott4431 That does seem heavy. If you can get somewhere with an actual SW scale, it would help. That said, most importantly is does it feel heavy.
@@EFGMC Thanks AJ. Yes, I will get them checked with a SW scale. Oddly, they don't seem overly heavy, and I hit them well. The OEM specs list them as D2. Thanks again!
Love your channel
So does swing weight affect flex...and if it does if its to light of swing weight for the flex would you have to swing faster to make up for it?
ruclips.net/video/qNvJ370-ve8/видео.html
great vid.....clear explanation
Thanks!
No matter what shaft I put in my miuras the swing weight comes out heavy. Is there a reason why?
Either the heads are heavy or the shaft lengths are longer. I've had to get rid of head sets before because they were just too heavy for the build I needed.
@@EFGMC well the pw head weights 294 grams. Shafts are standard length 7 iron 37 inches long. Shafts are dynamic gold 105 stiff.
@@ericpietrondi9186 What weights are you getting? What grip do you use?
@@EFGMC 5 and 6 iron d5. 9-7d4. Golf pride mmc 49 grams
Hey thank you for the vid
Thanks for watching!
I use golf okrasa..the length shall be measured up to the shaft end and not grip butt end..if u deduct the grip butt end maybe around 2mm to 3mm, ur sw point shall be lowered to 0.2 to 0.3 sw point per mm..based on this video the result shall be closer i guess if it was measured correctly
wow!!!!
ok