Hourston Glascraft Restoration - Part 1 - Splashwell removed to gain access to the transom

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  • Опубликовано: 9 дек 2021
  • 1978 Hourston Glassgraft 18.5 foot
    Full gut and rebuild of a hourston glassgraft 18.5 foot boat. I'm in the process of removing all the wood at this point. I wasn't going to video document this but changed my mind later on that's why there's a bit missing from when I first started. Any comments or questions don't hesitate to post them.
    Progress to date:
    - seats removed and destroyed (junk)
    - electrical removed
    - 115 hp honda outboard motor removed and out on a homemade stand
    - small section of floor removed (to see what I'm working with)
    - splaswell removed to gain access to the transom
    This is the beginning of a full canadian classic boat restoration.
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Комментарии • 9

  • @mollydempsey8798
    @mollydempsey8798 2 года назад +1

    2021-1978 = 43 years lol
    Looking forward to seeing the end result. 😊

  • @redgreen610
    @redgreen610 11 месяцев назад +1

    Yes, I found out the transom is convex by design. I left transom skin in place and clamped 2 laminations of ply in to replicate the shape using numerous big clamps. You have to cut about 2 inches off the keel or you cant get the second lamination in place to clamp it (due to transom shape). Use the popcycle stick method to get templates and cut ply laminations at 1/3 stagering joints. Worked like a damn and it is strong. Lots of guys go for 2 part epoxy. 1708 and normal polyester resin worked for 50 years, so I stayed with that, and it makes things easier.

  • @samLIPS66
    @samLIPS66 2 года назад

    Hey! i see that you live in sidney! I am also a sidney resident with a newly aquired huston 14footer with the saaaame problems. i would love to come by and have a look at your work. maybe you could give me some tips and tricks!

    • @Sea2Skyward
      @Sea2Skyward  2 года назад

      I haven't worked on it since the last video but will be starting again soon

  • @markkelly6395
    @markkelly6395 2 года назад

    I am about to start the same restoration and look forward to following this! I have a few questions. For starters, what is the process for putting the splash well back in? Will you need to build a brace to support it from the bottom? I'd like to understand a little more about the method start to finish before it cut out the splash well vs the transom from the back. Thanks so much for chronicling this project! Kimberly

    • @Sea2Skyward
      @Sea2Skyward  2 года назад

      I'm learning as I go. what kind of boat do you have? I'm suspecting to place the spashwell in its position, ducktap sections on top to hold it where I want it. apply the peanut butter to the bottom areas the 1908 few steps tapering wider with each layer and one cured go to top side and figure out how to blend in the cut marks and hide it the best I can

    • @markkelly6395
      @markkelly6395 2 года назад

      @@Sea2Skyward Thanks for the quick reply. I'll be learning as YOU go! 😊 I've got a 16' Hourston, my best guess is
      early 80s. I've done a bit of research, have concluded that replacing the transom from the inside is the way to go but I can't find any info specifically showing how to put the splash well back in. I guess you cross that bridge when you get there. I'm also pondering raising the transom because the outboard that I have for it is a long shaft.
      The sun just came out so I better get out there while I can! Thanks again. Kimberly

    • @Sea2Skyward
      @Sea2Skyward  2 года назад

      @@markkelly6395 I just did the same seen the sun so removed a bit more of transom.

    • @redgreen610
      @redgreen610 11 месяцев назад

      Probably too late now, but I've done this job. Don't cut splashwell out entirely. I cut about 6 inches from the lower step in well and then up 45 degrees to the top of the cap above transom. That preserved the structural strength and allowed lots of room to get the transom out without cutting the hull. Make cuts away from the corners because the body work to be eventually done is easier on a flat surface rather than a radius edge. The radius is very hard to replicate in fiberglass and you dont want to use too much bondo. All I did was use some plywood backer behind cuts and screwed it into place exactly where it needed to be. Take a grinder to get down to fiberglass where you intend to join the surfaces. Then I fiberglassed a first layer over the joint except where the screws were. Once hardened, I removed the screws, sanded and then put two more layers on. Its very hard to do it underneath, but I used wax paper with good adhesive to hold it in place while it kicked off. Messy job doing it underneath.