The air fuel screw is not going to radically change the performance of the bike. It primarily effects around idle. This bike should be like feel like it's possessed by satan and you're scared to ride open it up. If that's not the case it's likely compression is low and you need to do work on the piston/rings.
Also a little tip on how to start it pretty fast and easy. With this tip, I can start our 2000 cr500 in shoes. Do a few compression kicks first (slow kicks) then bring the kickstart all the way back up. Slowly kick it down until you feel it hit a spot where the kickstart moves a little easier. (Can’t figure how to explain that easily) it will be about a 1/4 of a kick down. That’s top dead center. Bring the kickstart all the way back up then boot it. Will start first kick even in shoes
Recently found your channel and really enjoy your videos. I bought a new 92 CR500 in my early 20's. As I'm sure you know by now when they run right they're hard to hold on to if you open it up. So fun.
the first thing I used to do when I was into motocross bikes when I bought a second hand one is change the piston and rings as you have no idea how old the one in there is
if you think thats working ok you obviously have never driven a good one.. working right those things were scary.... my 250 would eat that thing as its running here
did you find your power valve yet 😂😂😂 (of course not because they don't have one). get a compression reading. and you hold the reeds up in the light see if you see any holes in them. the screw for carb was not set right meaning your main jet and Probaly all your other jetting is off too. sounds like your bike is a slug and doesnt want to rev out how it should. carb related almost certain of that. or your top end is shot. compression test will let you know. and I would suggest you not to be doing those wide open runs with your bike not running correctly unless you are planning to grenade the engine.... and no one will be able to tell you the jetting because your elevation and temperature with different air filter and exhaust set up with change it. you need to let people know your elevation and temp to give you a guideline
Purple Ether you mean like a decompression head... they make them for the bike but no his does not have it. the 89 and newer engines have scallops makes them a bit easier to kick compared to the 85 and 86 model
isnt it 90 on that has less compression cause thats why i thought a 1989 was so collectable cause thats the year they had the most power but also had heaps of compresion
Hawk Gamer 85 and 86 were what was known as the "suicide engine". After that they started taming them down making them more enjoyable for most people to ride. A lot of people liked the oldschool 80s forks. The 80s engines were known to always have water pump problems though. Any ways they are all great bikes, two stroke big bore power and reliability.
I've been riding since the early 80's and replaced reeds once. Do people really have reed problems that often? I've worked at 2 large motorcycle dealers as well.. First I've heard of this CR's reeds always go bad.
Nice kickstarting there dude. Need full commitment and a strong kicking leg to get one started. My technique starting a 500cc is to hold the clutch in virtually standing upright when I kick it over and push myself back towards the back of the seat as I slam down as hard as I can. Normally can get one started in 5 or 6 kicks.
I agree, there is a jetting issue. The only logical solution is to find an original manual, and in there it will list the appropriate settings for your altitude and outside temp. That's your benchmark, and you can usually gauge if it's running lean or rich by the WOT response and observing the spark plug carbon deposits.
If it’s fouling plugs you need to look into adjusting the carb screws... and if you end up having to adjust them jurrastically to get it running right then you need leaner jets. Your bike doesn’t have enough air to lean out the fuel oil mix... you need leaner jets and a carb adjustment
Never seen anyone blow into reeds like that. Your suppose to hold them intake boot side up, to a light and see if there are any gaps. Change the plug again since you probably fouled it and check carbs settings and float height.
Tim Luttringer 500's a whole different animal, trust me, a 125 has like 25 hp,?! That 500cc 2 stroke Makes like 60 hp. It really needs that pipe seal for maximum HP!
It isn't jetted properly PERIOD. People going on about power valves lmfao, a dude even mentioned KIPS ffs it's a Honda dude... Also people going on about oil premix ratios have no clue what they are talking about either, you mix the oil to the oil manufacturer spec, it could be Amsoil Saber 80:1 makes no odds.. Air filter check, reeds check, it isn't over revving on idle so no air leaks check, the carb jetting sounds too low not enough fuel getting in there!! I'd go with the 175 main 55 Pilot that has been mentioned a few times (obviously dependant on altitude and temp, which will mostly affect the pilot and clip position). Good luck!! Love your vids guys (Y)
exactly i got a cr500af they dont got power valves for 91 to 96 when they changed the engine alittle bit to help smooth the power from my experience from building one and racing it the things will pull wheelies in any gear and actually dont have a power band really there more like 450s but one way to achieve the power band sort of speak you go with a 2001 cr250 fly wheel and cdi which i did and holy shit it revs like a cr250 does insane fun to ride but i think he should put a top end in you never know how many hours it has and a cr500 i did a full rebuild on my 91 500 engine but even with the piston about to go they dont feel like they have low compression to the average rider thats not use to be around these fire breathing dragons
You'll see the same shit in every motorcycle video.. People actually say shit like they know the oil mixture by watching someone ride their bike.. All kinds of MMI graduates in the comment section..
Jamie Cosham Just FYI they won't always over rev on idle with an air leak. My CR500 had an air leak from the ignition side crank seal as well as a blockage on the pilot circuit of the carburetor. The combination of the two caused it to refuse to idle. Only after messing with adjustments on the carb and changing the jetting multiple times did it finally run away on me.
the idle screw only works up to 1/4 throttle and sets the air fuel mixture (in decreases air added, out increases air added), so you want to set it to the highest, smoothest idle point
Ive got some specs here for you mix gas 32:1 main jet 175 pilot jet 55 air screw 2 out third clip position and needle is r1369n you can find these if you look up on google the specs
Did you clean that carb? You have to take out every single jet and screw, soak it in solvent such as diesel fuel to clean it well, then spray all the small air passages out with compressed air. There are some tiny passages you can't see that can be clogged. But first of all compression test that...Looks a little easy to start if you ask me.
Easiest and most overlooked thing to do.... CHECK THE COMPRESSION! Almost certain it needs a new top end, because you should not be able to kick that bike that easy, and it should come up with you in every gear.
I will be standing virtually upright and slamming down as hard as I could pushing my self back as I kicked it over. 5vor 6 kicks like that to get my 500 started
If you put the piston at TDC when you kick it will start first kick every time. I usually give my 95 cr500 3 or 4 slow kicks to draw some fuel and then roll the kick starter slow until it falls into the most solid or stiff notch or gap in the stroke then bring the kicker back to the top and give her a good thump with a slight blip of throttle it will fire. When you kick thru TDC you are fighting the engine. Start from TDC on any bike and it will make life easy. Definitely reeds or jetting on your power issue. Also make sure the exhaust packing isn't clogged with oil. Its not your engine I promise. I had a kx500 that ran poorly. Once the reeds and carb were sorted it would run the dunes all day without a paddle. Then the motor seized out by devils dune at St. Anthony in Idaho. Broke it loose in gear and that ride back to camp was the fastest that bike ever ran. Upon disassembly the cylinder was scored so bad it had to be sleeved and all but 3 or 4 of the balls in the crank bearings were disintegrated. Its not your engine. But as everyone else says your cr500 should loop you 1st thru 3rd, wheelie 4th, and roll a wheelie off a slight hill in 5th even worn out.
Hey Vintage listen up bud. hey i had a 91 KX500 that bogged out like this we couldn't figure it out for nothing we tried just about everything/ jets/reeds/cdi box/ powervalves etc etc. The problem was the top piece of the jug on top that goes over the piston was WARPED and was slightly blowing the top end gasket and it was causing water to and coolant from the jug to get into the top end causing it to bog like crazy when you snap on it, Im not saying this is whats wrong with your bike but if you cant figure it out this could most likely be it orrrr there could be a crack in the inside of the jug somewhere letting coolant get into the top end.... if you can figure it out worst comes to worst just get a wash board orr something really flat and smooth with some very fine sandpaper LOOK UP WHAT KIND TO USE/ and take the top of the jug and put the sandpaper on the bottom of it where it gets spark at and take it and twist it back and forth a few times on the smooth board surface to smooth out the surface of the top jug piece. hope this helps if you cant figure it out.
Hey 2vintage I have a question because I know you are a pretty good mechanic, I just bought a 2003 banshee and it starts right up 1st kick when it cold but after 10 min or so of it warming up it just dies within seconds and loses power, do you think you can help me out I would greatly appreciate it, thanks John
take out pickup coils and measure resistance. then heat them up with heat gun and measure resistance again. if it goes significantly out of specifications, thats your problem, but thats just one thing to check
+Legend Entrepreneur yes on the outside of the flywheel...if you can figure which wires are right I wouldnt take them off because they need to be put back at the right distance, resistance will be around 200 ohms, there are probably two of them unless you have both cylinders set to have powerstroke at the same time, and you need to measure resistance between the wires of each one. do not use the torch, use heat gun, it wont do any damage because engine gets hot anyways, just get it to working temparature of the engine. take a picture of the wiring so you would assemble it back the right way. good luck
main jet #175, pilot jet #55, needle is R1369n, needle clip is 3rd position, air screw should be 2 turns out. Also check the clutch plates, if they are worn and slipping, you're not going to get that scare the crap out of you acceleration.
I found this in a Honda book for a 1994 CR500 carb jetting Main jet 172 Pilot jet 60 Needle clip position 2 from top Needle r1369N I still would put a new spark plug cap on it I think the ohms are too low so you're not getting enough resistance to burn the fuel.
Hey guys look up ken Kaplan cycles CR500 video . Listen to his bike and see the power his cr500 puts down just riding it around. Keep up the videos on this bike .
warm up bike, Install new plug, Start bike, Do a WOT run down the street, shut off bike and stop, pull out plug, look at the porcelain around the electrode, if it has a golden brown ring its jetted properly, If its light brown its too lean if its dark brown its too rich. PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF CR DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!
Run motul 800 two stroke premix it is the best out there. A bit pricey but it is well worth it. And mixing at different ratios is not a "cure all". It comes down to having the proper jetting.
Need Heights clip should be set at the second spot on the top of the needle the mixture screw should be set in around two turns too 1,3/4 turns out Only a bit of advice don't smash that mixture screw so hard down when you're checking how many turns you at you score the mixture screw and you will need to buy a new one
Replace the reeds, just because they look fine doesn't mean there worn, buy some carbon fiber ones. Keep that filter clean, make sure the float is set properly
bansheemania i have a honda 250r 3 wheeler, the plug has not been changed in 36 years and no one has ever look at the air filter and it still runs, dont waste your money babing your bike
@@danborsos3826 is it frozen in there? I get a deal on plugs. So i just change every week if i ride every day. Uni filter i clean weekly, i ride the coal dumps. Dust
from my experience with 2strokes I can say it sounds too rich, because idle is slow, kinda struggling, to lean would have inconsistent and to fast idling, maybe its clutch side crank seal because your jetting sounds pretty lean to me(i never owned a 500, im just thinking), I would burn out the pipe and go for colder spark plug because they seem to work better in less air conditions when the temparatures are lower and hold up better with bike that is not being pinned all the time and see how it works.
+doobyboy21 it took the nycasil coating off my cylinder around the intake and exhaust ports choke should be left open for a minute or so on two strokes I was told to do so by speedway mechanic and it also makes more sense to me that way, I may be overly careful but thats just my experience so I tell it to others because spark plug is still cheaper than cylinder replating
It obviously needs rebuilt you can't check the piston by looking through the intake and exhaust ports unless it's been seized and it's turning over way to easy the carb needs rejetted and the slide needle set jet replaced
ok first of all the air screw is for zero to 1/8th throttle. secondly maybe its the video but it sounds like the clutch is slipping. if not check the seal where the exhaust meets the cylinder. A leak there can make a huge difference.
Make sure it warms up to full temp before you give throttle. Let it idle without touching the throttle for around 10 minutes and it won’t foul the plug
dirtbagian not really...my 125 will foul a plug if I don’t let it idle for 10 minutes before I ride. It’s built up as well with a 144 kit, pipe, reeds, and it’s ported. But it’ll foul one if it’s not warmed up and I get on the throttle
DctheGr8 _ that's because you have it jetted too rich, so it will only run properly warm.. your powervalves are more than likely gummed up from letting it idle every time you ride it.
dirtbagian the reeds and powervalves are clean. I’ve checked those. Eric gorr did my bike and jetted it. Therefore that is very unlikely. I run 32:1 too. He said that’s a problem with most 2 strokes.
run 40:1,(sounds like 32:1 in the bike) and the jetting needs to be lower with the carbon fiber reeds. so go a #160 or #165 for the main jet. (if you hear a wobble at max RPM then revert the the last jet and mess with the pilot), and lower the pilot jet a little to a #55 and fine tune it with the AF screw. and i think either the exhaust valve is dirty or the KIPS/Power valve needs adjusting. everything else seems normal
My cr250r was running like that with the bogging sound & feel. Remembered seeing my brother fucking around with the throttle screw on the handle bars. Turned it back down and it had crazy more power then I was running.
It needs a rebuilt. She’s got like no compression it looks like. I would check your tolerances and order a oem piston. And your powervalves are sticking or something. A cr500 should feel like it’s ripping your arms off
Mtb Ridingog if you can show me a factory power cr500 with a power valve you can have my bike title and all. I'm not sure where you are getting your information but you are misinformed. After about a year of research I chose the cr500 over the kx500 due to the steeper rake, the lack of nikasil coating in the cylinder and the lack of a power valve.
@@joeljohnson2539 your talking factory I'm talking aftermarket cyclinder with the power valve and case swap for the valve to work ... Yea the cr500 factory has no power valves your correct I was talking aftermarket cyclinder and head ...
Since I'm not actually riding it but are you sure all 5 gears are there cuz in the vid it doesn't look like it. If you have at least 2 gears an it won't wheelie sumthins deff wrong with this bike just trade it for sumthin else an cut ur losses. Don't put a dime into it. Next purchase take a compression tester with an take more time lookin over the bike an more time riding it. Just starting it doesn't mean alls ok.
change gaskets, pistonrings and carburator.. the bike has low compression and at the same time you can see its getting too much fuel when u throttle it. the "boiling" sound when u try to ride it is because it gets to much fuel
i think it might be the reeds how many times has he said that lol dude check the power valve. sounds like it isnt adjusted right or might be clogged they are suppose to be taken apart and cleaned every so many hrs
First off again a Honda cr500 does not have a power valve. Second this bike is a torque monster so you need to short shift it, don't rev it out like a four stroke...two strikes are short shifted to stay on the pipe. I had one of these before, now I'm on the kx500, you talking about a power band😳😳
The air fuel screw is not going to radically change the performance of the bike. It primarily effects around idle. This bike should be like feel like it's possessed by satan and you're scared to ride open it up. If that's not the case it's likely compression is low and you need to do work on the piston/rings.
2 vintage :::: it looks like the choke is not fully seated in the card take it out and make sure it seats in the card fully .. like this so he can see
I’m fairly sure that this is the issue please can you tell me if it’s fixed
Yeah i seen that at the end id guarantee they forgot to turn the choke off
Do a compression test! That should be one of the first things to do on a used two stroke, or really anything used!
that thing should be pulling 4th gear power wheelies
Jeff Ferguson really. Its not even doing it in 1st or 2nd
5 th if u know how to ride
Jeff Ferguson exactly mate had 1 in the 90s a absolute beast
Yup they pull so hard they want to rip your arms off.
5th gear wheelie with clutch help
Also a little tip on how to start it pretty fast and easy. With this tip, I can start our 2000 cr500 in shoes. Do a few compression kicks first (slow kicks) then bring the kickstart all the way back up. Slowly kick it down until you feel it hit a spot where the kickstart moves a little easier. (Can’t figure how to explain that easily) it will be about a 1/4 of a kick down. That’s top dead center. Bring the kickstart all the way back up then boot it. Will start first kick even in shoes
Recently found your channel and really enjoy your videos. I bought a new 92 CR500 in my early 20's. As I'm sure you know by now when they run right they're hard to hold on to if you open it up. So fun.
the first thing I used to do when I was into motocross bikes when I bought a second hand one is change the piston and rings as you have no idea how old the one in there is
JOCKATEO don't matter how old just matters how it was maintained and how many hours are on it ...
They are too cheap for that
Yeh I do the same
Stroker6.0h C'mon man, how old it is/how many hours on it...... Use your head you know what he meant.
Stroker6.0h Fucking smartass
if you think thats working ok you obviously have never driven a good one..
working right those things were scary.... my 250 would eat that thing as its running here
My 90 kx 250 would beat this thing too.
did you find your power valve yet 😂😂😂 (of course not because they don't have one). get a compression reading. and you hold the reeds up in the light see if you see any holes in them. the screw for carb was not set right meaning your main jet and Probaly all your other jetting is off too. sounds like your bike is a slug and doesnt want to rev out how it should. carb related almost certain of that. or your top end is shot. compression test will let you know. and I would suggest you not to be doing those wide open runs with your bike not running correctly unless you are planning to grenade the engine.... and no one will be able to tell you the jetting because your elevation and temperature with different air filter and exhaust set up with change it. you need to let people know your elevation and temp to give you a guideline
Does this bike have a compression lever that will effect a compression test?
Purple Ether you mean like a decompression head... they make them for the bike but no his does not have it. the 89 and newer engines have scallops makes them a bit easier to kick compared to the 85 and 86 model
isnt it 90 on that has less compression cause thats why i thought a 1989 was so collectable cause thats the year they had the most power but also had heaps of compresion
Hawk Gamer 85 and 86 were what was known as the "suicide engine". After that they started taming them down making them more enjoyable for most people to ride. A lot of people liked the oldschool 80s forks. The 80s engines were known to always have water pump problems though. Any ways they are all great bikes, two stroke big bore power and reliability.
team 719!!!
Uusually if you open the throttle that much on a CR 500 you end up on your assets!
I was about to say the same...each time you twisted that throttle that front end should be in the air!
@@armyretired28 You have to twist it first, they are not.
I've been riding since the early 80's and replaced reeds once. Do people really have reed problems that often? I've worked at 2 large motorcycle dealers as well.. First I've heard of this CR's reeds always go bad.
Them graphics man I just love em😍 I get the urge to watch Arnold’s classics movie the running man every time i see it this bike.
Nice kickstarting there dude. Need full commitment and a strong kicking leg to get one started. My technique starting a 500cc is to hold the clutch in virtually standing upright when I kick it over and push myself back towards the back of the seat as I slam down as hard as I can. Normally can get one started in 5 or 6 kicks.
I agree, there is a jetting issue. The only logical solution is to find an original manual, and in there it will list the appropriate settings for your altitude and outside temp. That's your benchmark, and you can usually gauge if it's running lean or rich by the WOT response and observing the spark plug carbon deposits.
My 500 bogged like crazy until I did a total rebuilt and now it’ll wheelie in every gear it’s crazy
If it’s fouling plugs you need to look into adjusting the carb screws... and if you end up having to adjust them jurrastically to get it running right then you need leaner jets. Your bike doesn’t have enough air to lean out the fuel oil mix... you need leaner jets and a carb adjustment
Neither of these 2 should be on any 500cc bike .
They probably have more experience than you
@@davidlux3835 exactly this dude probs don’t even have a dirt bike 🤣🤷♂️
You will be remembered
did the guy you bought it from put new valves on it when he put on the pro circut pipe
Never seen anyone blow into reeds like that. Your suppose to hold them intake boot side up, to a light and see if there are any gaps. Change the plug again since you probably fouled it and check carbs settings and float height.
Pipe seal is VERY important on these 500's! Mine leaked at the pipe and ran like shit too..
Lucas Cady good point Lucas! These 500 2 strokes are very very picky.... and are a little weird for how they like to be run.
Dominick Johnston I can almost guarantee that's the problem on this bike.. Seal the pipe and let it rip!!!
My pipe on my 125 leaks but works great still
Tim Luttringer 500's a whole different animal, trust me, a 125 has like 25 hp,?! That 500cc 2 stroke Makes like 60 hp. It really needs that pipe seal for maximum HP!
Lucas Cady yeah ik im just asking if that would make it run better sorry for not being clear and it makes about 35 hp
It isn't jetted properly PERIOD. People going on about power valves lmfao, a dude even mentioned KIPS ffs it's a Honda dude... Also people going on about oil premix ratios have no clue what they are talking about either, you mix the oil to the oil manufacturer spec, it could be Amsoil Saber 80:1 makes no odds.. Air filter check, reeds check, it isn't over revving on idle so no air leaks check, the carb jetting sounds too low not enough fuel getting in there!! I'd go with the 175 main 55 Pilot that has been mentioned a few times (obviously dependant on altitude and temp, which will mostly affect the pilot and clip position). Good luck!! Love your vids guys (Y)
Dang knowledge
exactly i got a cr500af they dont got power valves for 91 to 96 when they changed the engine alittle bit to help smooth the power from my experience from building one and racing it the things will pull wheelies in any gear and actually dont have a power band really there more like 450s but one way to achieve the power band sort of speak you go with a 2001 cr250 fly wheel and cdi which i did and holy shit it revs like a cr250 does insane fun to ride but i think he should put a top end in you never know how many hours it has and a cr500 i did a full rebuild on my 91 500 engine but even with the piston about to go they dont feel like they have low compression to the average rider thats not use to be around these fire breathing dragons
You'll see the same shit in every motorcycle video.. People actually say shit like they know the oil mixture by watching someone ride their bike.. All kinds of MMI graduates in the comment section..
I've never heard of anyone running 80:1, that sounds weird. I run 32:1, and I know a lot of people that run 50:1, but 80 seems dry as fuck.
Jamie Cosham Just FYI they won't always over rev on idle with an air leak. My CR500 had an air leak from the ignition side crank seal as well as a blockage on the pilot circuit of the carburetor. The combination of the two caused it to refuse to idle. Only after messing with adjustments on the carb and changing the jetting multiple times did it finally run away on me.
Why cant brother just put on both of his riding boots 😂
Jake Gosnell. He isnt the one riding only doing the startup kick
Or put on his pants not inside out lol
Maybe he's only got one
Brother wont bother
the idle screw only works up to 1/4 throttle and sets the air fuel mixture (in decreases air added, out increases air added), so you want to set it to the highest, smoothest idle point
Ive got some specs here for you mix gas 32:1 main jet 175 pilot jet 55 air screw 2 out third clip position and needle is r1369n you can find these if you look up on google the specs
You could even go 36:1 just use good oil the quality of oil back then was worse so you dont need to run it as rich
if he goes down on the main it will probably blow, Best way is to read the plug.
he had 168, so how does he go down if he changes it to the original main jet
oh, thought i heard 186.
but the point is, You should always have the right main jet for your machine even if both are cr 500 .
I think you have to adjust the power valves to get the powerband to kick in that’s what I had to do with my 03 cr250 picks up like a champ now
Theres no power valve on a CR500 buddy!
Did you clean that carb? You have to take out every single jet and screw, soak it in solvent such as diesel fuel to clean it well, then spray all the small air passages out with compressed air. There are some tiny passages you can't see that can be clogged. But first of all compression test that...Looks a little easy to start if you ask me.
Its amazing how you come up with bikes that does not run right
Easiest and most overlooked thing to do.... CHECK THE COMPRESSION! Almost certain it needs a new top end, because you should not be able to kick that bike that easy, and it should come up with you in every gear.
I will be standing virtually upright and slamming down as hard as I could pushing my self back as I kicked it over. 5vor 6 kicks like that to get my 500 started
Bet he wishes he had that one back to do a redo .Joe has tons of experience now I bet anything he could tune it today
Anyone else think this video would make for a great drinking game. Everytime he says reeds you take a shot. P. S keep up the videos
If you put the piston at TDC when you kick it will start first kick every time. I usually give my 95 cr500 3 or 4 slow kicks to draw some fuel and then roll the kick starter slow until it falls into the most solid or stiff notch or gap in the stroke then bring the kicker back to the top and give her a good thump with a slight blip of throttle it will fire. When you kick thru TDC you are fighting the engine. Start from TDC on any bike and it will make life easy. Definitely reeds or jetting on your power issue. Also make sure the exhaust packing isn't clogged with oil. Its not your engine I promise. I had a kx500 that ran poorly. Once the reeds and carb were sorted it would run the dunes all day without a paddle. Then the motor seized out by devils dune at St. Anthony in Idaho. Broke it loose in gear and that ride back to camp was the fastest that bike ever ran. Upon disassembly the cylinder was scored so bad it had to be sleeved and all but 3 or 4 of the balls in the crank bearings were disintegrated. Its not your engine. But as everyone else says your cr500 should loop you 1st thru 3rd, wheelie 4th, and roll a wheelie off a slight hill in 5th even worn out.
Hey Vintage listen up bud. hey i had a 91 KX500 that bogged out like this we couldn't figure it out for nothing we tried just about everything/ jets/reeds/cdi box/ powervalves etc etc. The problem was the top piece of the jug on top that goes over the piston was WARPED and was slightly blowing the top end gasket and it was causing water to and coolant from the jug to get into the top end causing it to bog like crazy when you snap on it, Im not saying this is whats wrong with your bike but if you cant figure it out this could most likely be it orrrr there could be a crack in the inside of the jug somewhere letting coolant get into the top end.... if you can figure it out worst comes to worst just get a wash board orr something really flat and smooth with some very fine sandpaper LOOK UP WHAT KIND TO USE/ and take the top of the jug and put the sandpaper on the bottom of it where it gets spark at and take it and twist it back and forth a few times on the smooth board surface to smooth out the surface of the top jug piece. hope this helps if you cant figure it out.
find out what the stock jetting is and make sure someone hasn't messed with the sizing
The air screw on the side of the carb only adjusts idle air fuel ratio. Your jetting seems to be off
Hey 2vintage I have a question because I know you are a pretty good mechanic, I just bought a 2003 banshee and it starts right up 1st kick when it cold but after 10 min or so of it warming up it just dies within seconds and loses power, do you think you can help me out I would greatly appreciate it, thanks John
Legend Entrepreneur maybe top end do a compression test on both cylinders
Dave Makiato do you mean you think only one of the cylinders blew up? Because it starts up when cold, do you think it’s running on both cylinders?
take out pickup coils and measure resistance. then heat them up with heat gun and measure resistance again. if it goes significantly out of specifications, thats your problem, but thats just one thing to check
rbh productions pick coils are located where the stator is right?
+Legend Entrepreneur yes on the outside of the flywheel...if you can figure which wires are right I wouldnt take them off because they need to be put back at the right distance, resistance will be around 200 ohms, there are probably two of them unless you have both cylinders set to have powerstroke at the same time, and you need to measure resistance between the wires of each one. do not use the torch, use heat gun, it wont do any damage because engine gets hot anyways, just get it to working temparature of the engine. take a picture of the wiring so you would assemble it back the right way. good luck
I will say the same thing i said in your last video. Check the compression first. If compression is within spec then clean the jets or order new ones.
It’s the jetting try adjusting the air fuel mixture and make sure the needle on the slide is on the right groove
main jet #175, pilot jet #55, needle is R1369n, needle clip is 3rd position, air screw should be 2 turns out. Also check the clutch plates, if they are worn and slipping, you're not going to get that scare the crap out of you acceleration.
Never forget that you are always in the powerband ! It seems pretty normal to me !
spray carb cleaner or wd40 around the intake manifold when it's idling if the bike revs up or down from idle you have an air leak
Great advice!👍
I found this in a Honda book for a 1994 CR500 carb jetting
Main jet 172
Pilot jet 60
Needle clip position 2 from top
Needle r1369N
I still would put a new spark plug cap on it I think the ohms are too low so you're not getting enough resistance to burn the fuel.
Check ignition timing, swap the right spark plug, check pipe seal, check the choke is in right order, compression test the gnarly thing.
Hey guys look up ken Kaplan cycles CR500 video . Listen to his bike and see the power his cr500 puts down just riding it around. Keep up the videos on this bike .
Are you pretty much pinning the throttle? And still only getting that little bit of take off?
New reed valves and bottom end. Rod bearing and rings will be the excessive vibration felt through the handle bars
I bolted a carburetor from a 2000 cr250 on mine and it ran perfect. Does seem like your timing is on the lazy side.
warm up bike, Install new plug, Start bike, Do a WOT run down the street, shut off bike and stop, pull out plug, look at the porcelain around the electrode, if it has a golden brown ring its jetted properly, If its light brown its too lean if its dark brown its too rich. PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF CR DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!
i would also check the power exaust valve . might be carbon loaded and need cleaning. supposed to clean power exaust valve every 8 rides or so.
Run motul 800 two stroke premix it is the best out there. A bit pricey but it is well worth it. And mixing at different ratios is not a "cure all". It comes down to having the proper jetting.
Bike needs a rider 😂🤣
New piston, rings and wrist pin bearings will bring the bike to life...
1DVSB "pistons" lmao
1DVSB maybe cuz its an inline three I mean after all u did replace the "pistons" emphasis on the plural.
What’s the timing set at? You need to verify the timing
Need Heights clip should be set at the second spot on the top of the needle the mixture screw should be set in around two turns too
1,3/4 turns out
Only a bit of advice don't smash that mixture screw so hard down when you're checking how many turns you at you score the mixture screw and you will need to buy a new one
The weird thing about the big two strokes and even four strokes are either beat to crap or never ridden. Too many people are scared to ride them.
The choke was still on at 10.00? test ride.
Replace the reeds, just because they look fine doesn't mean there worn, buy some carbon fiber ones. Keep that filter clean, make sure the float is set properly
DEFINITELY NEEDS WORK - nice bike though. Keep us posted with the progress👍
Turn the choke knob to adjust your idle then set your airfuel mixture.
Big Strokin 500. Keep air filter clean. And change plugs often
bansheemania i have a honda 250r 3 wheeler, the plug has not been changed in 36 years and no one has ever look at the air filter and it still runs, dont waste your money babing your bike
Dan Games Even a clapped out bike with a worn piston will run. Just sayin'
N VD97 I thats What im saying too
Dan Games There's a difference between a running bike and a well maintained bike. Maintanance is key
@@danborsos3826 is it frozen in there? I get a deal on plugs. So i just change every week if i ride every day. Uni filter i clean weekly, i ride the coal dumps. Dust
You should do a top speed test
On the cr100
from my experience with 2strokes I can say it sounds too rich, because idle is slow, kinda struggling, to lean would have inconsistent and to fast idling, maybe its clutch side crank seal because your jetting sounds pretty lean to me(i never owned a 500, im just thinking), I would burn out the pipe and go for colder spark plug because they seem to work better in less air conditions when the temparatures are lower and hold up better with bike that is not being pinned all the time and see how it works.
Homie is whipping it like a 4 stroke! haha
Only use the choke to start it ! After it's started dump the choke quickly and race the gas to clear the bike up ! Then go bonkers ! Nice bike ! :)
that is what you do on 4 stroke that has independant lubrication, on two stroke choke should be left open for some time
Go see this video ! And Shane Connoly also says the same thing on a 2 stroke cold start ! ruclips.net/video/EVj8Yi6nPm0/видео.html
+doobyboy21 it took the nycasil coating off my cylinder around the intake and exhaust ports choke should be left open for a minute or so on two strokes I was told to do so by speedway mechanic and it also makes more sense to me that way, I may be overly careful but thats just my experience so I tell it to others because spark plug is still cheaper than cylinder replating
Awesome ! this is my bike ! =) ruclips.net/video/UmgipQJNYg0/видео.html
Id rebuild the top end and check for any air leaks, replace the reeds, and rebuild the carb. If its still running like this id order a jet kit.
The carb needs tuning it might be getting to much air or fuel I had the same problem with my rm 85 also it might need a spark plug
Casey DenBesten he just changed the spark plug if you listened
P.S you boys make sure the clutch isn't slipping?
best thing to do is get a carb kit and rebuild plus make sure jets are correct.
That piston is glazed. Do a compression check and post your numbers. If you have time for a leak-down post the numbers.
It obviously needs rebuilt you can't check the piston by looking through the intake and exhaust ports unless it's been seized and it's turning over way to easy the carb needs rejetted and the slide needle set jet replaced
Try vacuum leak test on this motor.
Do theses boys just tool around the yard ?
ok first of all the air screw is for zero to 1/8th throttle. secondly maybe its the video but it sounds like the clutch is slipping. if not check the seal where the exhaust meets the cylinder. A leak there can make a huge difference.
Forget everything you know and stay right there. If you can master a 500 everything else is baby shit.
Put little chuck on the 500 and let him rip it
You should put the 500 engine in to the broken cr250 frame
Make sure it warms up to full temp before you give throttle. Let it idle without touching the throttle for around 10 minutes and it won’t foul the plug
DctheGr8 _ wtf that's terrible advise. That's HOW you foul a plug😂 you are not supposed to let 2 strokes idle.
dirtbagian not really...my 125 will foul a plug if I don’t let it idle for 10 minutes before I ride. It’s built up as well with a 144 kit, pipe, reeds, and it’s ported. But it’ll foul one if it’s not warmed up and I get on the throttle
DctheGr8 _ that's because you have it jetted too rich, so it will only run properly warm.. your powervalves are more than likely gummed up from letting it idle every time you ride it.
By idling I'm assuming no throttle. I always let my bike idle before I ride, while giving it throttle blips.
dirtbagian the reeds and powervalves are clean. I’ve checked those. Eric gorr did my bike and jetted it. Therefore that is very unlikely. I run 32:1 too. He said that’s a problem with most 2 strokes.
run 40:1,(sounds like 32:1 in the bike) and the jetting needs to be lower with the carbon fiber reeds. so go a #160 or #165 for the main jet. (if you hear a wobble at max RPM then revert the the last jet and mess with the pilot), and lower the pilot jet a little to a #55 and fine tune it with the AF screw. and i think either the exhaust valve is dirty or the KIPS/Power valve needs adjusting. everything else seems normal
There is no power valve in a cr500.
anonMS dawg what do you mean
Did you leave the choke on again?
so is minty the new word for good ? or like new ?
It may not be jetted for that exhaust either! My bike was exactly like that after I put on my fmf system a couple days ago
My cr250r was running like that with the bogging sound & feel. Remembered seeing my brother fucking around with the throttle screw on the handle bars. Turned it back down and it had crazy more power then I was running.
It needs a rebuilt. She’s got like no compression it looks like. I would check your tolerances and order a oem piston. And your powervalves are sticking or something. A cr500 should feel like it’s ripping your arms off
No power valve on a cr500
Not feel should rip out of your arms 😂😂😂
@@joeljohnson2539 there is a power valve nuckle head
Mtb Ridingog if you can show me a factory power cr500 with a power valve you can have my bike title and all. I'm not sure where you are getting your information but you are misinformed. After about a year of research I chose the cr500 over the kx500 due to the steeper rake, the lack of nikasil coating in the cylinder and the lack of a power valve.
@@joeljohnson2539 your talking factory I'm talking aftermarket cyclinder with the power valve and case swap for the valve to work ... Yea the cr500 factory has no power valves your correct I was talking aftermarket cyclinder and head ...
The choke was on or not adjusted right I can see it sticking up
55 and 175 for the jets
Since I'm not actually riding it but are you sure all 5 gears are there cuz in the vid it doesn't look like it. If you have at least 2 gears an it won't wheelie sumthins deff wrong with this bike just trade it for sumthin else an cut ur losses. Don't put a dime into it. Next purchase take a compression tester with an take more time lookin over the bike an more time riding it. Just starting it doesn't mean alls ok.
Pull the power valve and clean the carbon buildup, Scrape etc. May be stuck in either position.
does this have a power valve? make sure its not stuck.
smaller main jet and lower the needle one slit and try it, i had a cr250 1991 and it was up jetted for winter riding and it had the same issues.
Yes that's what I'd try too. Reluctance to rev out = classic symptom of rich jetting.
change gaskets, pistonrings and carburator.. the bike has low compression and at the same time you can see its getting too much fuel when u throttle it. the "boiling" sound when u try to ride it is because it gets to much fuel
i think it might be the reeds how many times has he said that lol dude check the power valve. sounds like it isnt adjusted right or might be clogged they are suppose to be taken apart and cleaned every so many hrs
His neighbors must hate the bikes
mine did...
John Putman same with me
you guys need a lt500r
Definately change to around 175 main jet and you might want to change pilot to but start with main
well it’s a STRONG BIKE 500 u might have to tighten it all it vibrates a lot and the screws come out no matter what
Depends where you live theres like 6 or more jets for it.
Pipe has a dual O-ring seal, FMF o-ring seals for like 10$!!
First off again a Honda cr500 does not have a power valve. Second this bike is a torque monster so you need to short shift it, don't rev it out like a four stroke...two strikes are short shifted to stay on the pipe. I had one of these before, now I'm on the kx500, you talking about a power band😳😳
maybe change the rings if the piston is all good check the sprocket size some people get scared when the front pop-up 😂😂 keep up the good work
Raise the needle clip in the carburetor up one notch. 20 to 1 fuel to oil ratio
I have a 2001 CR 500R. I left the carb jets stock. My Mc will take off in 3rd gear in dirt. The plug tests passed