Let me tell you something, the way you explain the whole process while showing us how is done helps a lot, no bs at the beginning, just a plain and simple explanation! Thanks
Great tutorial. Just when I thought it wasn't going to turn out with a gradual burst transitioning from dark to light, you blended it all together perfectly. Nice job!
You deserve to have 1000 times the subscribers that you do. You do a great job finishing and an even better job describing what you’re doing. This was an awesome find.
Nice tip at the end. That denatured alcohol brought the whole project together. The time I was thinking "well it must soak in and blend together as it dries". Because I was starring at a clear line between the dark and the light dyes. Then at the very end you you took out the alcohol and everything blended nicely. That was nice. I'm starting my very first build and watching everything I can to NOT mess this up. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man! I watched videos for days when I first started building. Good luck on your build. Don't be afraid to make mistakes. They teach some of the best lessons. The real talent is how you recover from them. A lot of mistakes can become "happy accidents" as well.
Im excited to try this on a double/cut p90 style build. I have always done natural wood tones. but I want this to be a dark, vibrant, deep green. Its gonna be fun!
very cool now I see how you apply the dye to the guitar. I did a kit where I used oil stain then put clear lacquer over the top. But I think if i do a kit again Ill definitely do a tinted lacquer or dyed application.
Getting ready to dye my first guitar using Transtint. My kit has pretty much the same wood color and grain. This video helped out a ton. Thank you for the straight to the point explanation. Would the same hold true for the neck as well?
I love the green burst - emerald burst - i did an emerald burst on a squire strat using aerosol cans, i have it as solid colours but if I was doing it again I would use dye and hope to see the wood grain through the dye. It will be dye for my next project. Maybe on a tele...
So I used the dye alcohol mixture that you currently use and the center of the guitar is to dark and I want to lighten it up so I was wondering how long is the wait time before I could sand it
Awesome video,thank you.When using Keda Dye,do you use a grain filler before or after the dye?And is there anything I need to do before I use True Oil for the finish? I have used Keda dye before but want to try the True Oil for finish this time. Last time I applied 18 coats of brushed on laquer, sanded after every 2 coats.
I rarely ever use grain fill. Maple is very tight grained so I don't think it really needs it. There are quite a few grain fills on the market that allow for staining before fill and some for after. My best advice would be to do some research on the product and test on scrap before applying it to your final project.
Thx for the vid. Gathering dye finish info and I like the use of alcohol; as a carrier. I also like the less sanding. I've got a Curly Top Maple 335 clone and a Flame Maple Tele clone, that I plan on refinishing. Have you ever done a dark base coat (brown, black), sanded it back, and then applied color? I've seen others doing it, with diff dyes. I'm wondering if the Keta is appropriate, for that finish.
Hey Tomas! Yes, I've tried the dark dye and sand back technique. It works on thicker pieces of wood with deeper grain and figure. Not so much on thinner veneers. That process requires a lot of sanding which is why I generally try to avoid it on thin veneers.
Mahogany is difficult because of it's naturally darker color. Not impossible though. Try using a strong concentrate dye like TransTint or Keda mixed with straight Isopropyl alcohol. Mix it in a clear mason jar until you can't see through it. Then do 3 to 4 coats (dry in between coats). If you have a scrap piece to test on first that would be preferable. The end result may be a deep dark blue. It may be a challenge to achieve a lighter vibrant blue due to the dark pigment of the wood. In that case I would try a white wash first (let it dry for a day) then dye. Good luck my friend!
I do not use conditioner. I tried it twice with no real difference so I decided to eliminate 1 less chemical from my cabinet. I usually find that there are 3 main causes for any uneven finish. 1- poor wood quality, 2- not enough sanding, 3- the presence of a glue residue or oils from skin/ work surface/ wood. The first 2 have obvious solutions. The third I usually take care of by wiping the guitar down with naptha or acetone before applying the stain. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment!
Great video man, I learnt a lot watching this and will refer back to it when I finally get around to staining my guitar. I had a question regarding the use of denatured alcohol at the end. Will the same affect happen if I were to use denatured alcohol on a 100% water based stain?
Hey kitsterino! Thanks for checking out the video! Yes, the denatured alcohol will work the water based stain as well. It's a solvent so it takes some of the color off which helps with the blending in addition to "moving" the stain around.
@@NorthstarGuitars Thank you for the response Nate! I'll be sure to use your tip in the future. Thanks for again for the video too, the guitar looks great.
I'm working on a PRS style project with a black to aquamarine burst on flamed maple. I have the fade pretty near perfect but plan to use Aquacoat as a grain filler to get a piano finish- but I'm afraid it will bleed the colors out as I work it in. Is there any kind of sealant I can use to make sure the color is stable?
I still struggle with sealing and clear coat. So I might not have the best answers. Shellac and Poly are good sealers. You could do a few very light mist coats. I always recommend testing on scrap first though. There are also a ton of videos on peoples trials and errors as well. Take your time and be patient and you will end up with a great finished product. Good luck!
When you say you use a different tint starting out, do you mean a bottle of a different color dye, or have you thinned out the dye you're using somehow?
Thanks very much for a really useful video. I notice that the body you're staining hasn't been coloured on the back yet. I'm thinking of spray-painting the basswood back of mine and staining the veneer front. Is that a workable plan? If so, which should I do first? Thanks very much.
Thanks! I would tape off the front and spray the back and sides first. That way if any over spray or seeping occurred you could still sand it clean before dying the front. Just be sure to let it dry thoroughly. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a thin coat of clear on it for protection as well.
@Northstar Guitars what is the ratio of colors and alcohol you're using on the 1st coat (the light coat where one can still see the grain)? I'm still sanding ash and alder down lol (it's all good. learning curb and loving it.)
Depends on the wood and the type of grain filler used. I typically don't use grain filler on figured tops because it can potentially change the contrast of the grain and add unwanted color. With that being said, you can tint some types of fillers and get some cool results. My advice is to try both ways on some test scraps and see what works best for your project.
You mentioned the clear coat, but didn't say what you recommend, and how many layers you'd use. How would the wipe on poly clear work against dyes vs a spray on poly (using MinWax for both). I can test this on scrap maple flooring but I'll get a different result of the flamed maple veneer this kit guitar from StewMac comes topped with. I have seen a technique for applying the wipe on using 1500 grit sand paper. The dust created creates the seal, but I feel that might scuff the dye itself. Also I won't be using power dyes these are undiluted liquids from Rit (yes some hate that product, but I've seen great results).
Hey kjemradio! I started out using Rit dyes. There are tons of ways to get unique and stunning colors and I love that. It keeps things fresh and interesting. I recently saw somebody use melted crayons! If it looks good, it is good. I've been experimenting with different clear coat finishes ever since I started building. The learning curve is steep! This video was mainly to showcase 1 type of dye technique. I still consider myself a novice when it comes to clear coats. Once I feel comfortable with my results and techniques I will try to make a separate tutorial video. As you know, there is a ton of prep that comes before putting on the clear that is very important. I found out the hard way that putting on 10 coats of tru oil gives a pretty good gloss but also shows off every scratch, dent and oil mark that I failed to get out before hand. I have recently been going back to wipe on poly finishes. I found that using 3 or 4 coats of sanding sealer (after the dye) and level sanding before applying the poly is very effective. I use Aqua Coat and that stuff is amazing. Whatever you decide to use as a clear coat, you'll want to start with 1 or 2 thin coats. This will help to lock in the color and keep it from bleeding. If you sand between coats and still get color in the dust, keep adding coats. The sand paper grain fill technique works well with natural finishes but you're right in thinking that it will show up on a dyed surface. Hope that helps. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. I don't mind sharing what I've learned.
exactly what is that color you put on first? It must be one you mixed yourself because the green I just got from this place (transtint dye) is basically a dark hunter green and is basically black until you smear it out way way thin and then it has no pop and hardly any color saturation. thx
@@NorthstarGuitars I see that but what are the exact colors you used to create the lighter and darker greens? I want to know so I can check them out. thx!
@@TruthSurge Start with a mix of Yellow. Add small amounts of blue until you get the desired shade of green. If you start with Blue as your base and add Yellow, it will be dark green and will make it hard to get a lighter shade. I use Isopropyl Alcohol. You can use water or a mix of both. Test on scrap of the same type of wood if you can.
@@NorthstarGuitars yep, I know color theory but I was concerned that you had used some special color because I didn't know what colors that company offered. I tried the "bright green" transtint and it literally was almost black even when rubbing it across a paper towel. It was much too dark and too desaturated to be remotely called "bright green" but that label was given by the Woodcraft website so I don't fault transtint but that green was worthless. It was a dark hunter green, not even a standard green. So, I will def be mixing blue and yellow and almost certainly get a more intense green than that horrible green I just got. thx!!
Best thing to do is sand slowly and carefully. Unfortunately with thin veneers, if there is a glue spot coming through, that means it is fully saturated in that spot. I started out doing a lot of kits and had glue spots on almost every one. Luckily they were all near the edge and I was able to modify the color design by doing a darker burst or a natural edge. I have sanded through many veneers as well and just had to roll with it and change the design. My best advise is to practice doing your own veneers. It's not that scary after you do it a few times and the cost vs. throw away is very reasonable. Plus: even the thin veneers you get on ebay (.6mm) are still way thicker than the paper thin ones on kits, you can sand them properly and get way more depth in the grain. Best of luck!!!
Hi amazing result , I'm thinking of dying a mahogany tele the same colour, however iv sanding up to 320 it still has open grain pores in the wood. Do you reckon it would be advisable to use a wood filler before applying the dye or would this hamper the results ? Also been looking at maybe adding a black wax at the end to fill in the grain and then pullback with oil as an alternative green and black finish , just wondering what your thoughts might be? As your guitars are works of art 👍
Thanks! Your stain and grain fill idea is really cool, however, it may not turn out exactly the way you think. And that's not a bad thing. If you haven't stained mahogany yet, be prepared for some trial and error. It is a darker tint wood which will have an affect on the color that is being applied. You're green may turn out darker than expected. Test on some scrap if it's available. If not, start with a very light green first and test it on the back of the guitar. As for the grain fill: some products are stainable allowing you to fill first. I prefer staining first. It also depends on how you are going to finish the guitar. If you want a high gloss mirror coat, grain fill , sanding sealer and a ton of clear coats will be necessary. Another option that I have had success with is: color, then seal with a few light coats, and then color grain fill. The sealer helps the grain fill from staying anywhere other than the pores. Hope this helps. Good luck!
how would this work on a swamp ash body. I have a Warwick team build being a left we get just the natural finish unless we go masterbuild. so thinking about a way to dye the guitar. any thoughts? should i use a filler first? and brand suggestions?
That depends on a few things. Sometimes "natural finish" means no color but there will be a finish coat applied. If that is the case, you will need to sand it off to be able to apply the color. If they leave it "raw" then you are good to go and just need to do prep sanding before color. The filler will depend on the type of clear finish you want to achieve. If you want a glassy, smooth finish you will need filler. If you want a more tactile finish that showcases the grain you can skip the filler.
Hi, nice job! What's the dye that are using? Can you share it with me? And what's the finish that you apply over the dye? Could it be danish oil por example?
Hi Fabrício! I am using Keda Wood Dyes for this guitar. You can find them on Amazon and Ebay if they are available in your area. The clear coat for this guitar was water based Polycrylic and Renaissance wax.
Hi Bruno. This process needs to be done on raw wood. If your guitar is already painted you would need to strip the varnish, paint and sealer off and sand it down to bare wood. There are a ton of tutorials here on RUclips that show how to do that. Best of luck!
Is there a preference for an oil finish on water base dye? I’m looking to build my first and would like to do a nice stain without the glossy hard coat of poly or lacquer, thanks
Absolutely! I would recommend Crimson Guitars finishing oils. Ben does tutorials on both kinds they sell. If you don't want to wait for shipping go with TruOil. Both have a pretty shallow learning curve and can provide good results to first time users. There are a ton of videos on how to apply it. Watch as much as you can and do tests on scrap wood before applying to the guitar. My best advice is to not worry about making your first guitar perfect. The point is to learn by doing and making mistakes. I have a wall of mistakes that are my own collection. Each one plays great and has a it's own mistakes. I love them all for what they are, a chronological display of how I got better at the craft. Good luck and have fun building!
@@NorthstarGuitars I was looking at that earlier. Thanks. Btw what color should i make it? I have a prs flame top style and all my friends are telling me different things lol.
@@tropic1018 that may always be a tough choice. My best advice: get some scrap pieces, test different color mixes and see which one turns out the best. You will be happier with a good result rather than a favorite color (that may or may not interact with the wood properly).
Denatured alcohol contains ethanol and several other chemicals. It does work similarly to isopropyl alcohol but I generally stay away from it. I have used it for stains before but didn't notice a difference in workability, so I just stuck with the isopropyl.
Hey I have a question if you're still answering them. Can you blend water based dyes with isopropyl alcohol or water? Thanks for the vid btw, very helpful.
Absolutely! I started out mixing the Keda dyes with water, then tried half water half isopropyl alcohol and now I just use isopropyl alcohol. So yes, these dyes can be mixed with water and alcohol. Thanks!
That depends on the the finish. All are different and require different curing times. Best advice is to read the products instructions and then add atleast 1 week if not more. Waiting sucks but there's nothing worse than spending months on a build and then rushing through the last part. That last 10% is what everyone will see. Do the best you can on it. Good luck and happy building!
Food coloring can be used to stain wood for sure. I've used aniline dye, fabric dye, leather dye, calligraphy ink, acrylic paint, melted crayons and a bunch of other stuff as well. The results are different for each one but all work in some way or another. The best lessons learned come from trial and error. My recommendation is to search for some tutorials, mix some up in a jar and go to town on some scrap wood. You might even come up with something way cooler than expected. Good luck!
I have a stratocaster and I want to dye it like that, will it look alright or the old finish will not let the dye get in the wood? or just sanding it well will do the trick?
@@geovani60624 I'm not really an expert on this type of thing, I'm new to this as well. I think he said these were Keda dyes, and Transtint is also popular. Do a few tests on scrap wood before you go straight to the guitar.
@@RurouniTenShins Awesome! The first build is really exciting. What's even more exciting is realizing that you can doing again when you're done! Good luck and happy building!
Soemtimes. Most of it is how you mix them. Making greens for example: If you start with say 6oz of blue and start adding drops of yellow you will get dark green. But if you take 6oz of yellow and add drops of blue you will have a much lighter green. It is dilution done at the mixing stage as opposed to dilution by adding more water or alcohol after the color is mixed. I hope that makes sense.
@@NorthstarGuitars I've got several airbrushes and a spray gun. I don't do much airbrushing anymore but if I were to try a burst stain, I'd def use one of the airbrushes or my spray gun. I have an LPH 50 by Iwata and it's a mini spray gun so it would work fine for a burst if I set it right. Or another one that would work is Olympos 102C but none of mine have closed cups so I have to be reaaaally careful not to spill color from the cup. I guess they make some plastic tops for those but I just never researched. This green guitar turned out pretty nicely even using a towel. I WONDER if you put down a thin line of water at the edge of where you THINK the fade should kind of be THEN go around with stain and hit that water each time so it's MORE wet than needed, that way when you come back wtih a new rag, it'll fade better cuz you'll be able to push it around in that fade zone and blend better. ? Just a silly idea I had just now. haha thanks!!!
No. I tried using it once a few years back but I didn't notice any difference so I didn't bother with it after that. No point in itroducing another chemical for no real gain. Your results may vary.
@@NorthstarGuitars Hey thanks for the quick response! I've only used keda mixed with water, I'm going to give the isopropyl alcohol a shot after seeing this video.
This is exactly the results I am looking for on an upcoming project. Only with blue on a quilted maple top. Thanks. I have one question. After watching your video I was curious what the difference in isopropyl and denatured alcohol is. I found this article: (sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html) which says that when denatured alcohol evaporates, it leaves a residue. The article is referring to using it on computer parts but i was wondering if you've noticed any residue when using denatured alcohol. Ok two questions :) Can you just use isopropyl alcohol for the entire process? Thanks
I used water as my base mixture for about 4 years before switching. Though I don't feel qualified to tell you what the physical differences between Denatured and Isopropyl Alcohol are, I will say that for me it was a feel and results difference. My colors and saturation were much better with Isopropyl over denatured and water. The dry time and work ability were also improved. Those are the key points that shaped my preferences. My advice is always experiment on scrap and see what works best for the project.
No problem. There are a ton of kits on the market. None are perfect but most issues can be worked out. Just be patient with the build. RUclips is a great resource.
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Let me tell you something, the way you explain the whole process while showing us how is done helps a lot, no bs at the beginning, just a plain and simple explanation! Thanks
Right on! Glad to hear it. Thanks for the comment!
Stunning results. Thank you for sharing this!
Good explanation of the process… and the result speaks for itself. Beautiful! ! !
That is awesome! I want to build a kit and finish it in green like this. Yours is the first explanation that makes me feel like I can really do this.
Thanks for really explaining what you're doing. The finish looks beautiful!
Great tutorial. Just when I thought it wasn't going to turn out with a gradual burst transitioning from dark to light, you blended it all together perfectly. Nice job!
This is super relaxing to watch
You deserve to have 1000 times the subscribers that you do. You do a great job finishing and an even better job describing what you’re doing. This was an awesome find.
Thanks! I appreciate it!!!
Great video, very informative format, beautiful finish on that guitar
Spectacular work!
Thanks for the pointers. I did learn something today from your video. Keep up the good work
That looks incredible
Looks fantastic!
Looks nice. Great job!!
Fantastic and informative 8 minutes. Thank you!
outstanding. i was waiting for you to tell me to consult my doctor when considering my dye application method
fantastic color ... very nice!
Dyes can be tricky great info , and final finsh just looked killer. I'm doing a amber/purple burst to try get fire effect.
Nice tip at the end. That denatured alcohol brought the whole project together. The time I was thinking "well it must soak in and blend together as it dries". Because I was starring at a clear line between the dark and the light dyes. Then at the very end you you took out the alcohol and everything blended nicely. That was nice. I'm starting my very first build and watching everything I can to NOT mess this up. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man! I watched videos for days when I first started building. Good luck on your build. Don't be afraid to make mistakes. They teach some of the best lessons. The real talent is how you recover from them. A lot of mistakes can become "happy accidents" as well.
I just started my first as well. Doing the same thing. Good luck with it. And thanks Nate! Very helpful, and beautiful guitar!
Excellent! Thanks for the tutorial.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Im excited to try this on a double/cut p90 style build. I have always done natural wood tones. but I want this to be a dark, vibrant, deep green. Its gonna be fun!
very cool now I see how you apply the dye to the guitar. I did a kit where I used oil stain then put clear lacquer over the top. But I think if i do a kit again Ill definitely do a tinted lacquer or dyed application.
Beautiful guitar...
This is amazing. Thank you.
This guy knows his stuff!!!
Very informative, thanks!
its like painting on a canvas, you blend two colors very smoothly
That guitar turned out nice!
fantastic video
Thanks for the great content.
Super helpful thanks!
Beautiful 😍
Thanks I Found This Video Very Helpful
Getting ready to dye my first guitar using Transtint. My kit has pretty much the same wood color and grain. This video helped out a ton. Thank you for the straight to the point explanation. Would the same hold true for the neck as well?
Very nice work.
Thank you!
Thanks for the tips
Thank you so much for this insight into a dye finish. Other than sanding and a tack cloth…is there any other preparation you perform? Thanks again.
I love the green burst - emerald burst - i did an emerald burst on a squire strat using aerosol cans, i have it as solid colours but if I was doing it again I would use dye and hope to see the wood grain through the dye.
It will be dye for my next project. Maybe on a tele...
That s nice you know what your doing.
looks dope
Great video
So I used the dye alcohol mixture that you currently use and the center of the guitar is to dark and I want to lighten it up so I was wondering how long is the wait time before I could sand it
Awesome video,thank you.When using Keda Dye,do you use a grain filler before or after the dye?And is there anything I need to do before I use True Oil for the finish? I have used Keda dye before but want to try the True Oil for finish this time. Last time I applied 18 coats of brushed on laquer, sanded after every 2 coats.
I rarely ever use grain fill. Maple is very tight grained so I don't think it really needs it. There are quite a few grain fills on the market that allow for staining before fill and some for after. My best advice would be to do some research on the product and test on scrap before applying it to your final project.
Thank- You !
Thanks for the video
Thx for the vid. Gathering dye finish info and I like the use of alcohol; as a carrier. I also like the less sanding. I've got a Curly Top Maple 335 clone and a Flame Maple Tele clone, that I plan on refinishing. Have you ever done a dark base coat (brown, black), sanded it back, and then applied color? I've seen others doing it, with diff dyes. I'm wondering if the Keta is appropriate, for that finish.
Hey Tomas! Yes, I've tried the dark dye and sand back technique. It works on thicker pieces of wood with deeper grain and figure. Not so much on thinner veneers. That process requires a lot of sanding which is why I generally try to avoid it on thin veneers.
Thanks for the great video! I was wondering where you got that great guitar body. Thanks!
i like the tip about mixing the same colours in different order. any tips on dyeing mahogany blue? always comes out green.
Mahogany is difficult because of it's naturally darker color. Not impossible though. Try using a strong concentrate dye like TransTint or Keda mixed with straight Isopropyl alcohol. Mix it in a clear mason jar until you can't see through it. Then do 3 to 4 coats (dry in between coats). If you have a scrap piece to test on first that would be preferable. The end result may be a deep dark blue. It may be a challenge to achieve a lighter vibrant blue due to the dark pigment of the wood. In that case I would try a white wash first (let it dry for a day) then dye. Good luck my friend!
I love color green paint on guitar
Do you use wood conditioner on the maple top before dyeing? I tried it out and it made the colors pop less but the finish was also very even looking
I do not use conditioner. I tried it twice with no real difference so I decided to eliminate 1 less chemical from my cabinet. I usually find that there are 3 main causes for any uneven finish. 1- poor wood quality, 2- not enough sanding, 3- the presence of a glue residue or oils from skin/ work surface/ wood. The first 2 have obvious solutions. The third I usually take care of by wiping the guitar down with naptha or acetone before applying the stain. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment!
When in the proces do you sand off the lifted wood fibres?
Great video man, I learnt a lot watching this and will refer back to it when I finally get around to staining my guitar. I had a question regarding the use of denatured alcohol at the end. Will the same affect happen if I were to use denatured alcohol on a 100% water based stain?
Hey kitsterino! Thanks for checking out the video! Yes, the denatured alcohol will work the water based stain as well. It's a solvent so it takes some of the color off which helps with the blending in addition to "moving" the stain around.
@@NorthstarGuitars Thank you for the response Nate! I'll be sure to use your tip in the future. Thanks for again for the video too, the guitar looks great.
I'm working on a PRS style project with a black to aquamarine burst on flamed maple. I have the fade pretty near perfect but plan to use Aquacoat as a grain filler to get a piano finish- but I'm afraid it will bleed the colors out as I work it in. Is there any kind of sealant I can use to make sure the color is stable?
I still struggle with sealing and clear coat. So I might not have the best answers. Shellac and Poly are good sealers. You could do a few very light mist coats. I always recommend testing on scrap first though. There are also a ton of videos on peoples trials and errors as well. Take your time and be patient and you will end up with a great finished product. Good luck!
what's the best way to get the dye that dripped over the edge?
When you say you use a different tint starting out, do you mean a bottle of a different color dye, or have you thinned out the dye you're using somehow?
Thanks very much for a really useful video. I notice that the body you're staining hasn't been coloured on the back yet. I'm thinking of spray-painting the basswood back of mine and staining the veneer front. Is that a workable plan? If so, which should I do first? Thanks very much.
Thanks! I would tape off the front and spray the back and sides first. That way if any over spray or seeping occurred you could still sand it clean before dying the front. Just be sure to let it dry thoroughly. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a thin coat of clear on it for protection as well.
@@NorthstarGuitars Thanks very much. I wouldn't ave thought of putting the protective coat of clear.
@Northstar Guitars what is the ratio of colors and alcohol you're using on the 1st coat (the light coat where one can still see the grain)? I'm still sanding ash and alder down lol (it's all good. learning curb and loving it.)
I use 100% Isopropyl Alcohol. Not sure on the Yellow to Blue ratio unfortunately. I just mix and test until it looks good.
Did you use a grain filler? If so, when?
beatiful job. when it's come to staining doe's it need to grainfill first or later.?
Depends on the wood and the type of grain filler used. I typically don't use grain filler on figured tops because it can potentially change the contrast of the grain and add unwanted color. With that being said, you can tint some types of fillers and get some cool results. My advice is to try both ways on some test scraps and see what works best for your project.
Thanks for the video, what kind of gloss do you use after the dye?
I believe I used clear gloss minwax poly on this one. It has been a few years though and my memory is a little fuzzy.
You mentioned the clear coat, but didn't say what you recommend, and how many layers you'd use. How would the wipe on poly clear work against dyes vs a spray on poly (using MinWax for both). I can test this on scrap maple flooring but I'll get a different result of the flamed maple veneer this kit guitar from StewMac comes topped with.
I have seen a technique for applying the wipe on using 1500 grit sand paper. The dust created creates the seal, but I feel that might scuff the dye itself. Also I won't be using power dyes these are undiluted liquids from Rit (yes some hate that product, but I've seen great results).
Hey kjemradio! I started out using Rit dyes. There are tons of ways to get unique and stunning colors and I love that. It keeps things fresh and interesting. I recently saw somebody use melted crayons! If it looks good, it is good.
I've been experimenting with different clear coat finishes ever since I started building. The learning curve is steep! This video was mainly to showcase 1 type of dye technique. I still consider myself a novice when it comes to clear coats. Once I feel comfortable with my results and techniques I will try to make a separate tutorial video. As you know, there is a ton of prep that comes before putting on the clear that is very important. I found out the hard way that putting on 10 coats of tru oil gives a pretty good gloss but also shows off every scratch, dent and oil mark that I failed to get out before hand.
I have recently been going back to wipe on poly finishes. I found that using 3 or 4 coats of sanding sealer (after the dye) and level sanding before applying the poly is very effective. I use Aqua Coat and that stuff is amazing. Whatever you decide to use as a clear coat, you'll want to start with 1 or 2 thin coats. This will help to lock in the color and keep it from bleeding. If you sand between coats and still get color in the dust, keep adding coats. The sand paper grain fill technique works well with natural finishes but you're right in thinking that it will show up on a dyed surface.
Hope that helps. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. I don't mind sharing what I've learned.
exactly what is that color you put on first? It must be one you mixed yourself because the green I just got from this place (transtint dye) is basically a dark hunter green and is basically black until you smear it out way way thin and then it has no pop and hardly any color saturation. thx
These are Keda dyes. I mixed a lighter green first and applied the darker mix second. All mixed by hand.
@@NorthstarGuitars I see that but what are the exact colors you used to create the lighter and darker greens? I want to know so I can check them out. thx!
@@TruthSurge Start with a mix of Yellow. Add small amounts of blue until you get the desired shade of green. If you start with Blue as your base and add Yellow, it will be dark green and will make it hard to get a lighter shade. I use Isopropyl Alcohol. You can use water or a mix of both. Test on scrap of the same type of wood if you can.
@@NorthstarGuitars yep, I know color theory but I was concerned that you had used some special color because I didn't know what colors that company offered. I tried the "bright green" transtint and it literally was almost black even when rubbing it across a paper towel. It was much too dark and too desaturated to be remotely called "bright green" but that label was given by the Woodcraft website so I don't fault transtint but that green was worthless. It was a dark hunter green, not even a standard green. So, I will def be mixing blue and yellow and almost certainly get a more intense green than that horrible green I just got. thx!!
Any tips on dealing with glue bleed-out on thin veneer? I'm working on a guitar right now and it looks like there might be a few problem areas on it
Best thing to do is sand slowly and carefully. Unfortunately with thin veneers, if there is a glue spot coming through, that means it is fully saturated in that spot. I started out doing a lot of kits and had glue spots on almost every one. Luckily they were all near the edge and I was able to modify the color design by doing a darker burst or a natural edge. I have sanded through many veneers as well and just had to roll with it and change the design. My best advise is to practice doing your own veneers. It's not that scary after you do it a few times and the cost vs. throw away is very reasonable. Plus: even the thin veneers you get on ebay (.6mm) are still way thicker than the paper thin ones on kits, you can sand them properly and get way more depth in the grain. Best of luck!!!
@Northstar guitars. are you using acetone to erase the stain marks on the bindings?
Hi amazing result , I'm thinking of dying a mahogany tele the same colour, however iv sanding up to 320 it still has open grain pores in the wood. Do you reckon it would be advisable to use a wood filler before applying the dye or would this hamper the results ? Also been looking at maybe adding a black wax at the end to fill in the grain and then pullback with oil as an alternative green and black finish , just wondering what your thoughts might be? As your guitars are works of art 👍
Thanks! Your stain and grain fill idea is really cool, however, it may not turn out exactly the way you think. And that's not a bad thing. If you haven't stained mahogany yet, be prepared for some trial and error. It is a darker tint wood which will have an affect on the color that is being applied. You're green may turn out darker than expected. Test on some scrap if it's available. If not, start with a very light green first and test it on the back of the guitar. As for the grain fill: some products are stainable allowing you to fill first. I prefer staining first. It also depends on how you are going to finish the guitar. If you want a high gloss mirror coat, grain fill , sanding sealer and a ton of clear coats will be necessary. Another option that I have had success with is: color, then seal with a few light coats, and then color grain fill. The sealer helps the grain fill from staying anywhere other than the pores. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Thanks for the advice, your passion for the work shows through, keep up the great work 👍
how would this work on a swamp ash body. I have a Warwick team build being a left we get just the natural finish unless we go masterbuild. so thinking about a way to dye the guitar. any thoughts? should i use a filler first? and brand suggestions?
That depends on a few things. Sometimes "natural finish" means no color but there will be a finish coat applied. If that is the case, you will need to sand it off to be able to apply the color. If they leave it "raw" then you are good to go and just need to do prep sanding before color. The filler will depend on the type of clear finish you want to achieve. If you want a glassy, smooth finish you will need filler. If you want a more tactile finish that showcases the grain you can skip the filler.
thanks, I'm having a really hard time finding denatured alcohol, none of the hardware stores around me carry it, where do you get it?
Lowe’s, Home Depot and Walmart usually carry it. You could also use isopropyl alcohol. That will yield similar results as well.
How did you clean the binding afterwards? does it come off with the alcohol or did you have to sand it?
I use a razor blade and scrape it. It's not hard to do it just takes time a patience. Tedious work but the end result is well worth it.
Hi, nice job! What's the dye that are using? Can you share it with me? And what's the finish that you apply over the dye? Could it be danish oil por example?
Hi Fabrício! I am using Keda Wood Dyes for this guitar. You can find them on Amazon and Ebay if they are available in your area. The clear coat for this guitar was water based Polycrylic and Renaissance wax.
Hi, I have an already painted and varnished body. How could I do the process in it?
Hi Bruno. This process needs to be done on raw wood. If your guitar is already painted you would need to strip the varnish, paint and sealer off and sand it down to bare wood. There are a ton of tutorials here on RUclips that show how to do that. Best of luck!
What clear coat do you prefer?
Is there a preference for an oil finish on water base dye? I’m looking to build my first and would like to do a nice stain without the glossy hard coat of poly or lacquer, thanks
Absolutely! I would recommend Crimson Guitars finishing oils. Ben does tutorials on both kinds they sell. If you don't want to wait for shipping go with TruOil. Both have a pretty shallow learning curve and can provide good results to first time users. There are a ton of videos on how to apply it. Watch as much as you can and do tests on scrap wood before applying to the guitar. My best advice is to not worry about making your first guitar perfect. The point is to learn by doing and making mistakes. I have a wall of mistakes that are my own collection. Each one plays great and has a it's own mistakes. I love them all for what they are, a chronological display of how I got better at the craft. Good luck and have fun building!
Many thanks
👍very nice!
Aaaannd thats one more thing that alcohol fixes! Good to know...
U okay?
Where do you get your stain? I recently got a guitar kit and i have trouble finding the right stain to use.
I use Keda Wood Dyes. You can get them through Amazon. They come in powder form. I like to mix them using isopropyl alcohol.
@@NorthstarGuitars I was looking at that earlier. Thanks. Btw what color should i make it? I have a prs flame top style and all my friends are telling me different things lol.
@@tropic1018 that may always be a tough choice. My best advice: get some scrap pieces, test different color mixes and see which one turns out the best. You will be happier with a good result rather than a favorite color (that may or may not interact with the wood properly).
Is there a difference when to use isopropyl vs denatured alcohol?
Denatured alcohol contains ethanol and several other chemicals. It does work similarly to isopropyl alcohol but I generally stay away from it. I have used it for stains before but didn't notice a difference in workability, so I just stuck with the isopropyl.
Hey I have a question if you're still answering them. Can you blend water based dyes with isopropyl alcohol or water? Thanks for the vid btw, very helpful.
Absolutely! I started out mixing the Keda dyes with water, then tried half water half isopropyl alcohol and now I just use isopropyl alcohol. So yes, these dyes can be mixed with water and alcohol. Thanks!
@@NorthstarGuitars Wow thanks for the quick reply! Much appreciated.
How long do you wait after finishing the body with water based finishes before you assemble it?
That depends on the the finish. All are different and require different curing times. Best advice is to read the products instructions and then add atleast 1 week if not more. Waiting sucks but there's nothing worse than spending months on a build and then rushing through the last part. That last 10% is what everyone will see. Do the best you can on it. Good luck and happy building!
Hey I have a question could you use food coloring to do this I don't have any type of ink or anything like that
Food coloring can be used to stain wood for sure. I've used aniline dye, fabric dye, leather dye, calligraphy ink, acrylic paint, melted crayons and a bunch of other stuff as well. The results are different for each one but all work in some way or another. The best lessons learned come from trial and error. My recommendation is to search for some tutorials, mix some up in a jar and go to town on some scrap wood. You might even come up with something way cooler than expected. Good luck!
@@NorthstarGuitars thanks man! I actually just started on a guitar it's a 30 year old Memphis guitar
What color of dye are u using.
What type of dye do you use
I have a stratocaster and I want to dye it like that, will it look alright or the old finish will not let the dye get in the wood? or just sanding it well will do the trick?
If the guitar is already varnished, it won’t take the dye and you’ll need to remove it somehow.
@@bobbirdsong6825 Thanks can you help me with the dye? I didn't find much information online and you just said it is water based
@@geovani60624
I'm not really an expert on this type of thing, I'm new to this as well. I think he said these were Keda dyes, and Transtint is also popular. Do a few tests on scrap wood before you go straight to the guitar.
what kind of finish did you put on top of your stain if any ?
I do all kinds. This guitar specifically for a wipe on poly finish in the end.
I’d love to know what proportions you mixed to get that color. It’s beautiful
Thanks! Unfortunately I couldn't tell you though. I rarely ever measure things out. I just mix until it looks right.
@@NorthstarGuitars hahah... the sign of a true artist. You’re videos are great. Working on my first build.
@@RurouniTenShins Awesome! The first build is really exciting. What's even more exciting is realizing that you can doing again when you're done! Good luck and happy building!
Did you scrape this guitar binding after put color on it?
Yes.
How do you get it shiny
So does the alcohol also pull the dye off the binding?
No unfortunately. You will still need to scrape the binding to clean it up. It's an arduous process but well worth it in the end.
Sir what type of clear coat you use for this guitar?
Mr. Altz05 clear gloss wipe on poly.
I would love to see this with turquoise. Many left-handed guitars are only brown, black,white or natural wood
Yes. Lefty's always seem to get passed over. I've made a few. Last one was a purple Prince themed Strat.
How do you make lighter tints? Do you dilute them?
Soemtimes. Most of it is how you mix them. Making greens for example: If you start with say 6oz of blue and start adding drops of yellow you will get dark green. But if you take 6oz of yellow and add drops of blue you will have a much lighter green. It is dilution done at the mixing stage as opposed to dilution by adding more water or alcohol after the color is mixed. I hope that makes sense.
Where could one buy that unfinished body ?
could just airbrush the edge and forget about that hard edge forever.
It definitely helps speed up the process for sure. I hope to get an airbrush system someday and develop that skill..
@@NorthstarGuitars I've got several airbrushes and a spray gun. I don't do much airbrushing anymore but if I were to try a burst stain, I'd def use one of the airbrushes or my spray gun. I have an LPH 50 by Iwata and it's a mini spray gun so it would work fine for a burst if I set it right. Or another one that would work is Olympos 102C but none of mine have closed cups so I have to be reaaaally careful not to spill color from the cup. I guess they make some plastic tops for those but I just never researched. This green guitar turned out pretty nicely even using a towel. I WONDER if you put down a thin line of water at the edge of where you THINK the fade should kind of be THEN go around with stain and hit that water each time so it's MORE wet than needed, that way when you come back wtih a new rag, it'll fade better cuz you'll be able to push it around in that fade zone and blend better. ? Just a silly idea I had just now. haha thanks!!!
Do you use a wood conditioner at all prior to staining with the keda dye?
No. I tried using it once a few years back but I didn't notice any difference so I didn't bother with it after that. No point in itroducing another chemical for no real gain. Your results may vary.
@@NorthstarGuitars Hey thanks for the quick response! I've only used keda mixed with water, I'm going to give the isopropyl alcohol a shot after seeing this video.
@@RTMvideos Awesome! Good luck and happy building!
This is exactly the results I am looking for on an upcoming project. Only with blue on a quilted maple top. Thanks. I have one question. After watching your video I was curious what the difference in isopropyl and denatured alcohol is. I found this article: (sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html) which says that when denatured alcohol evaporates, it leaves a residue. The article is referring to using it on computer parts but i was wondering if you've noticed any residue when using denatured alcohol. Ok two questions :) Can you just use isopropyl alcohol for the entire process?
Thanks
I used water as my base mixture for about 4 years before switching. Though I don't feel qualified to tell you what the physical differences between Denatured and Isopropyl Alcohol are, I will say that for me it was a feel and results difference. My colors and saturation were much better with Isopropyl over denatured and water. The dry time and work ability were also improved. Those are the key points that shaped my preferences. My advice is always experiment on scrap and see what works best for the project.
Is it the same process if I wanted a blue guitar?
Yes. Technique is the same regardless of dye color. I do blue guitars the same way. Good luck!
Nate Jones I appreciate the quick reply. I haven’t even bought a kit yet but I’m looking for one that I like.
No problem. There are a ton of kits on the market. None are perfect but most issues can be worked out. Just be patient with the build. RUclips is a great resource.
What finishing oil did you use?
I believe I used wipe on poly for this one.
How do I make the tiger patterns on my guitar?
That is the grain pattern in the wood. It is called Flame Maple, Curly Maple or Figured Maple sometimes.
@@NorthstarGuitars thanks
Did you say you used a high gloss to finish your guitar?
For this one I used clear gloss wipe on poly with a final coat of Renaissance Wax.
Doesn't the binding need to be taped off? My binding is very bright white.thx
I typically just scrape the binding with a razor blade after. It's very easy to do just tedious work.
@@NorthstarGuitars ok, thx for your reply.
How you got that strips on guitar before painting
Aman Deep I believe those are natural to the type of wood he used to make the body.
I believe I prefer red or black dye personally.