Don't Buy An 'Interfooler' Get An Intercooler
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- Don't end up with an 'interfooler' when looking to get your next intercooler!
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We don't all have big budgets to buy top-shelf brand name intercoolers that we see used on some of the world's fastest car builds, but that doesn't mean we have to settle for intercoolers that are simply not fit for purpose.
One such issue Andre has seen on budget intercoolers previously is a lack of fins in the core. Without these your intake air is not cooled as much as it could or potentially should be, leading to a loss of power at best, and high temperatures with the issues they bring at worst.
It is easy to do a quick visual check to make sure your next intercooler looks like or is very similar to the @plazmamanracing unit we show here. Buying from trusted sellers (there are trusted sellers for both ends of the market and everything in between!) is also advisable, but even so, it never hurts to double check your parts before you fit them regardless!
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Intercooler Design
0:24 - What's Inside?
0:55 - Worth A Double-Check For Fins
1:44 - Buy Once, Buy Right
2:35 - Thumbs Up, Learn More
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ORIGINAL IG POST:
Heat is a natural byproduct of compressing air, but heat is the enemy of power as it’s less dense, meaning it contains less oxygen for a given volume. The typical solution on turbocharged or supercharged engines is to incorporate an intercooler in the charge air plumbing which is simply a heat exchanger that can reduce the temperature of the inlet charge air. There’s nothing new here but it may surprise you to realise that not all intercoolers are created equal.
Over the years we’ve had the opportunity to test a wide variety of intercoolers including OEM products, generic off-the-shelf intercoolers, and intercoolers from name brand manufacturers like @plazmamanracing and have found a few key differences that can be easy to overlook. There is of course the age-old debate of bar and plate vs tube and fin which relates to the construction method of the intercooler core, however, we’ll leave that discussion for another post. The more important design consideration we’ve found is with regard to the internal fins inside of the intercooler.
These fins add surface area to the intercooler which gives the hot charge air more area to contact and hence this aids heat transfer from the charge air into the aluminium of the intercooler (the reverse happens when the cooler ambient air flows through the fins on the other side of the intercooler in the same way).
What we’ve seen with a number of the cheaper generic intercoolers is that these internal fins are either dramatically reduced, or in some instances completely missing, presumably to reduce costs. From the outside the intercooler looks normal but the lack of internal fins greatly reduces the ability to remove heat from the charge air. In one dyno test conducted with this style of IC core we saw IAT reaching 70-80 deg C at only modest boost levels. Swapping to a core with internal fins like the one pictured reduced IAT by around 45 deg C and resulted in an additional 60 horsepower at the wheels!
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Авто/Мото
Take $25 USD off ANY HP Academy course with this coupon: RUclips25
Enroll now: hpcdmy.co/25offytc - Taz 👨🏻
Whoever named this video bravo 👏
Chur! Let's see how the almighty algorithm judges it too haha - Taz.
Thanks for the info and video, adding an image of a poorly designed intercooler would be helpful too. 👍🏽
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I have an Re-Amemiya intercooler that is sortve like a v mount but instead of going left to right it goes bottom to top and it's a lot lot thicker so that it can be made small enough to fit but still get enough cooling. It's so hard to explain but basically it's excellent at cooling air and it's very small so more room for other things of course. It also isn't mounted in the front giving my 4 radiators and coolers more cool air to enjoy keeping the rotary at a crisp 83c in the winter and 85c in the summer (no matter how much boost or throttle I give it). What I'm saying is I completely agreed with the video. Design is everything and because of re amemiyas consideration for this I'm able to do more with other aspects of cooling (or anything else for that matter). Great video 😉👍
If any1 was curious this is the listing of the car with engine pics
Just received my plasmaman cant wait yo install and see and feel the difference
Bigger contact surface, but also greater resistance to air flow.
Naturally it still gives better results than traditional IC.
I mean, if you're super worried about airflow resistance you could just not run an intercooler at all right 😝 You're of course not wrong though and this is not the only type of intercooler either.
As always, everything has some sort of tradeoff which ideally gives more benefits than problems to justify the use of 🤘 - Taz.
So it picked up power but what was the difference in the iat I've seen a lot of videos saying x intercooler allowed for more power but virtually none say what effect it has from bad to good intercoolers actual iat difference and heat soak when queuing to race renders even brand name coolers sometimes not good enough
Only issue at the moment is that brand names are well over priced in comparision to the chinese knock offs and prob cost the same to make. Be interesting for someone to get hold of some of the cheaper chinese brands and do comparison videos so we know whats good.
When in doubt (like with the cheapest log style 3" air-water intercooler I could find), add a 1/8" bung on the inlet and outlet. From here you can use a proper T-fitting to combine both a ferrule style T/C probe and a pressure tap. For my application what I found it had minimal pressure drop and a notable delta temperature between the inlet and outlet (lower temp at the outlet). If you intercooler shows a differential in pressure of something like 0.5 psi and/or a single digit temperature difference between the inlet and outlet, then you've got something wrong.
A bit of data logging never hurt anyone.
Well, not counting the wallet.
I'd say "better" but still possibly short of "properly"?
Those end plates are still going to be adding restrictions because of their designs - check out 'vena contracta' for the fluid dynamics theory and math' for the entry losses, and there will be a small loss due to the gas expansion at the exits, check out " the Borda-Carnot equation" for that.
I don't know if it's actually going to be that significant, but a simple redesign of the end plates' pressing would cost little and may be helpful regardless - and be a potential selling point?
Rather than make the end plates, it should be easy enough to dummy build a charge cooler with plasticine or modelling clay, to give a smooth entry to the internal passages to check the affect on the pressure drop and hence calculate potential gains, dito with the cooling air's external airflow.
Of course, the exact same thing applies to the cooling air passing through the matric, too - that may actually be more significant as not only is it going to add additional resistance to the airflow, but restrict the flow to other coolers behind it.
The other thing is the airflow from the inlet through the end tank to the matrix, and from the matrix to the outlet? Those are certainly much better than many on the market, but is the distribution to the matrix tubes equalised as much as practical?
Bar and plate FTW
Can you also to a breakdown betwen different types of intercoolers ? Bar and plate, tube and fin, etc. When is better to use one or the other and where is each type more efficient. That would be good info. Cheers.
These will help a little in that respect I hope! Enjoy - Taz
- www.hpacademy.com/blog/not-all-intercoolers-are-made-the-same/?
- www.hpacademy.com/blog/the-best-intercooler-water-to-air-vs-air-to-air-intercoolers-tech-nugget/?
- www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/235-choosing-an-intercooler-for-your-build/?
Soo...? What makes it teck?
Thanks for sharing this info. I wish there was a picture showing what the interfooler look like. That way I'd know exactly what to stay away from.
I found this for you, hope it helps. I didn't label it - Taz.
iili.io/Jcm6AP.jpg
@@hpa101 That pic speaks a million words. thanks for the yes and no pic
@@hpa101 you should have this as a pinned comment if it's the main focus of the video
Wat about an Adrad intercooler (look it up) they use an extruded design is that always bad? Because a lot of ebay intercoolers Come like that.
Lol I love Chinese cheep stuff I got one on my Evo 580hp at 2 bar boost GTX 3076r
I'll try changing when I have more funds comparing the 2
Study a bit of thermodynamics ….and terms like bypass factor, usually used commonly in HVaC world….
Makes me just want to keep the stock intercooler until I absolutely need or can afford a decent aftermarket one
It's your best bet! All my cheaper cores were staying 35-40 degrees above ambient. That's just not very good
Never thought that deep about intercooler - Thanks for this
If any one knows; I've had a few water rads that don't dissipate heat.
Is it possible for the alloy to be the wrong spec. eeer alloy?😆
Impossible to say without knowing the exact radiators, their design, and the airflow through the radiators*, etc. There is a small variation in thermal conductivity of different alloys, but the gauge (thickness) may have more affect.
*On that, I've seen some HORRIBLE radiator fan "ducting" that blocked of much, even most, of the airflow - some from people who REALLY should have known better!
@@gordowg1wg145 The applications have been a Mini 1275, MGB and a Fiat Punto. All standard cars but with highter power output (Not much ie 15-20%) All had alloy rads but would not stay cool on the dyno. Replaced their new alloy rads for a an other new one but of a different make, problem solved👾
@@gothicpagan.666
Ah, good, thanks - so it would seem to be a poor design issue?
Can't comment about the others, but a cheap and easy cooling upgrade for the Mine would be to use the 'export' fan which was a much higher airflow design.
Way back in the day my motherI had a very quick Mini* and even with 80+mph AVERAGES cross country in 30+ C temperatures, it would barely move from mid-gauge. As I recall it had a stock radiator with the 12 blade fan.
*it was supposed to be 'stock', but a family friend with a dealership in the UK was organising the export of it and we suspect it was 'upgraded' in some way as a surprise for my mum - she was a very fast driver in the day. By that I mean it would pull an indicated 99mph (ignition warning light) or a corrected 94mph even with four in the car! And get ~34 mpg doing it! Those were slightly better than the 1275 GT at the time.
@@gothicpagan.666
Forgot, IIRC, you really needed the thermostat in the A (and B?) series engines as they could run into localised boiling, overheating, and block cracking without them.
Why are they all long flow?
I guess packaging, but no one really talks about short flow ICs anymore
maybe because the bottom tank seems to usually hang pretty low when installed? I agree with you though. I had that style and it worked great. Ugly, and i was worried the bottom was going to get beat up but it worked great.
They say all the cooling happens in the first 4-6"...wonder why this never gets tested
For the love of God, update Chrome before they do it for you.
Pfff, it's called 'retro browsing' my guy. All the cool kids are doing it. Andre is experiencing what life was like 12.4 days ago. Those chumps that did update right away are missing out.
Honestly, he's pretty much a time traveller at this stage - Taz.