I appreciate the breakdown and run through from simplest to most complex/costly, but also it's explained at a High School level so almost anyone that would be working on a vehicle can understand. you obviously had some great teachers in your learning
Your enumerating of the common starting problems is military-spec; Your presentation is easily the equivalent of a good Staff, Master, or SFC training his mechanics in the Motor Pool. Memory challenged as I am (disabled & wheelchair bound), I can still type some of these causes, and if I purchase a vehicle explore the few I can leaning on a car's hood skirt. With others, the cheap tester I can paste into notes & try these things before a service manager tells me maybe a hundred things that could need attention. That's knowing any car I buy is going to be fairly old. The stuck valves and/or low compression reasons for other problems like dirty valves or piston rings went just far enough. Most of what I have been saving for w/ the possible purchase of an old Subaru would be the major things in the heads (like gaskets), water pump wear caused by same. So with your good video I'll always be able to rule many things out first. Again, a definitely college level presentation.
I would add a time line with select able symptoms that are compartmentalized. ie no crank(or whatever layman term you wanna use) no fire, rough running, immediate or randomly dying.
I have a 2019 Subaru impreza and it was cranking fine but not turning over. It started up fine at my house, from on the way from home to my work which is only a 10 minute drive I encounter a small hill and then the speed limit goes from 30-40 mph there, when I went up the slight hill and engaged in the gas pedal it stalled to a complete stop, it went from 2,500 rpms to less than 1,000 rpms, I checked for a code and no codes were found but when it stalled it threw a permanent non flashing check engine light, battery light, traction control light, and oil light. I'll add it only has 3,510 miles on it and I've owned it since September of 2019, bought it new and drove it hours and hours away already had handled just fine but all of a sudden tonight couldn't go the full 10 minutes to work, it broke down halfway there and had to have it towed to dealership after ruling everything looked ok, nothing was loose, do you think it's a factory faulty repair needed? Have you ever heard of this ever happening to a brand new car before? Checked my fluids even. I'm still on the first factory oil in my car since it's well below 5,000 miles and oil looks brand new still and all the fluid levels looked fine also. First time I tried to crank it it just crank, if I kept it going it sounded like it was going to start and then just dropped off and stopped. Update... mechanic at dealer said it is throwing a stall code but can't figure out the issue, asked for my extra key to help solve the issue.
Hey, not sure if you figure out the issue yet but I think it’s your brake light switch “BLS” that went bad. I think there’s a recall for it but it’s a pretty easy fix under your steering wheel.
@@duckiedx they said it was a bad tank of gas or it had e-85 in it and the gas station filled up 87 with e-85 by accident at Sam's club, not sure if it buy that story since it was the dealership, it ended up costing me $400 for them to drain the tank and clean out the deposits they said had accumulated inside, I feel like they were trying to scam me so from now on I'll be paying the extra money and going to the second closest dealership where I bought the car at and I've been putting in ams oil upper cylinder lubricant, gasoline additive plus I've been putting in a little higher than 87 either 89 or 90 or even 93 depending on the gas station and what they have. I just thought it was bs that they said that considering the miles and it not even being a year old yet and that happening to me especially on my way to work, had to use a non paid sick day and lose holiday pay because of that damn car. My first Japanese car so far and so far because of that I don't hardly drive it anymore if it wants to act that way. 😒 should've stuck with my GM cars like the 2 others I had before I ran into the ground.
Just got my first subaru a 2023 crosstrek and holy cow this vehicle has so many fuses 3+ Main Boxes w/ whats gotta be 150+ fuses I've found as well as 10+ different Various specialized Fuse types on top of that tracking down a mischievous saboture is not an easy task forsure!
Welcome to Subaru ownership! In all likelihood, you will probably never have a single fuse blow though. Unless a rodent gets into your wiring or the car is in an accident, it is pretty unlikely to have an electrical short or overload anymore.
My subura Tribeca 2008 had a fuel injector leaking, it didn’t send any codes. But I didn’t follow these instructions and had the ignition coil and fuel injectors replaced.
I have a 2013 subaru impreza 2.0, and have the same problem. I have done the PCV valve, fuel pump relay, the fuel pump. So I just installed the relay, behind the glovebox, and it seemed to have help. However sometimes i still have a long crank, but no more then 2 seconds. The fuel pump relay is located behind the glovebox so you will need to take out the glove box and a few trim pieces. But as of now, after running and starting their is no problem. I installed the relay 4 days ago, and i havent had one no start since.
A crank sensor tells the PCM which two cylinders are on top dead center. Only the cam sensor can tell which cylinder is ready for power stroke or spark. The PCM learns the photo if you will of the speed of the crank, if it slows down when power should happen, then it slows. This is P0300, if it happens long enough, info from the cam sensor can help the PCM tell which cylinder is a misfire say #3. Then code P0303 will set. I’m done here.
I have a Forester that cranks but don't start. I replaced the battery, the next day it worked fine. Now it's 18F and this morning it's cranking but not starting at all .
My 2012 legacy 2.0 diesel boxer won't start it's turning over fast changed fuel filter.. pumped the pump till hard on filter. There's a injector pipe going to pump in a U upside down on top of pump opened one on right as U look in. Diesel there when turning over . Use to run for 10 seconds before filter change and cuts out. Trys to fire. No codes up or pending codes air filter changed yesterday any idea. Would I tow it to start?
I have a 2011 Subaru wrx and whenever i floor it (to give it gas) it like grogs and twitches, it doesn’t fully pull. You can hear the turbo spool, but the actual car doesn’t drive like it’s supposed to. It feels like you’re trying to drive a car that’s out of gas, it’s like groggy. What could this be?
Seems like an air fuel ratio problem. Could be a dirty or bad mass airflow sensor or a fuel pump. Also could be an air leak somewhere along the intake tube or intake manifold. Or a dirty or clogged fuel injector.
Any ideas how to diagnose the 9/10 stuck fuel pump issue you mentioned? Our 2010 impreza has intermittent starting issues, cranks strong but won't start, then another try and it will fire right up. Other times it nearly stalls after starting. Shop of course hasn't been able to replicate the issue.
It might be a sticky/dirty EGR valve which is pretty easy to clean. If it intermittently sticks, the computer will really struggle to figure out how much fuel to deliver upon startup. Also check all the couplers on your exhaust. They are held together by two bolts. If one of the two rusts off it can wiggle the pipe more closed which again will throw the computer's guess on how much fuel to deliver out of whack since the back pressure is more variable. It could just be the fuel pump which is accessable under the back seat, but you might as well check those easy things first. Mine actually did the same thing for a while and the EGR cleaning cleared it up.... but my muffler fell off right around the same time, so that's where my exhaust coupler theory comes in as a small chance that may have actually been the cause
2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 4cyl here, car stalled while driving 55mph, wont start now. Car made no sound, no lights came on, nothing weird happened when it stalled. Just died.
I have a 2013 Subaru Outback The engine light is on and brake light and cruise control lights are flashing. And it starts rough when is hasn’t been ran for a while. Any thoughts? My mechanic wants to change timing belt which I don’t think is the problem and sounds expensive
It’s possible your catalytic converter is starting to fail due to being clogged. The only way to determine this is to have your shop conduct an emissions test. They can rule this out for you. Good luck!
Thanks for the top tips. My 98 impreza turbo cranks slow. The alternator is reading 14.4 volts on the battery, but my battery is new at 60amps and 500 but do I need a stronger battery?
I have a 2014 2.5i Outback and have intermittent starting issues. It always cranks but sometimes takes a while to actually start. I replaced the battery and spark plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor. The issue is still there. It is not temperature dependent. I am thinking it may be something with fuel pressure, but I want to make sure before removing the fuel pump from inside the tank... any thoughts?
Check your EGR valve. Mine got a lot of carbon build up and was doing a similar thing with no check engine light. I cleaned it super good with a wire bristle brush and some carb cleaner and it has been fine ever since. If it doesn't seat all the way closed reliably, it can act like an intermittent vacuum leak.
Sorry for the late response. It could be the starter solenoid. That would usually make a click sound or just start to crank then you would hear the starter freely spinning. Also could be the battery. That would be more of a slow attempted crank for maybe two revolutions, then stop. If you jump it and it starts, it is probably the battery. Did you end up figuring out the problem?
Great video! I have a 2005 wrx ej205 non Avcs and engine im installing a ej205 avcs but car will not start. I changed the cam sensor. Dont know if im supposed to change the camgear because it has some kind of oil that flows inside. Non avcs camgear doesn't have that =/ any advise?
I've been having an issue with my 2012 outback. In cold weather when I put the key in, all power comes on, air fans work, etc. However, when I turn the key nothing happens. No clicking sound, no engine turning over or trying to turn over, just nothing. When the weather gets warmer the problem goes away. From researching the problem, someone suggested to stomp the clutch down a few times (this car is manual) and then try to start--they said it might be the neutral safety switch. The stomping actually worked and the car started when it was cold outside. Do you think im on the right path with trying to find the neutral safety switch?
Yes, it does sound like the neutral safety switch or in your case the clutch safety switch. It might actually not be a faulty switch but might not be depressing far enough to click. You may be able to adjust it a bit to fix the problem. My Subaru is an automatic, so I don't know the exact location but it should be up under the dash near the clutch pedal linkage somewhere.
I'm in the same situation kinda..my 2009 forester doesnt make any sound or clicks..just nothing.everything powers up.just wont crank.it doesnt happen often maybe 3 times a month.after a few minutes it then cranks.i just dont understand.
Forums are mostly usless.There's always the guy who asks the question, then you get 300 guys saying I have the same issue, has anyone solve the problem.?
Thanks for info I’ve had my 2008 sti just suddenly die on me and will not crank over at all the temperature is in the max but car is cool there’s an abs light and a a light that looks like a car on tilt with line through it.my Subaru is a 2008 sti hatch ej25 please can someone help me out with info on this.I’ve checked the fuses a can see under foot well and bonnet it’s a uk model
95 Impreza starts normally most of the time. sometimes cranks but won't start, and sometimes turning the key does nothing, I come back about 20min later it starts. Anyone know which wires/connections should I be looking at first? This issue seems to only happen when engine is warm never happened on a cold start
@@dinkyluvsmusic crank no start was a bad cam position sensor, pre OBDII subaru has self diagnosis black plugs under steering column to read fault codes, if there is no codes and it randomly just clicks and no crank it's probably bad ignition wires or starter motor
@@bobriley000444 pre OBDII ??? Have older subaru ....could you tell me more about being able to do codes..no plug in place like newer ones...something about under steering column ???
Is it cranking? If it is cranking but not starting it might be the fuel pump or a spark issue. If it isn't doing anything at all it might be the neutral safety switch.
My car is a 2006 grand marguise can you tell me what do I have a new battery a new alternator,and ,and a starter in it and it still want crank up regular up the way like a regular car do I have to jump starter every day can you tell me what do I have to put my car in neutral to crank up to.
Sounds like a transmission or transmission valve body issue. Is it a CVT? Does it try to lurch forward if you release the brake when it is stalling? It could also be a vacuum leak, stuck EGR or a dirty mass airflow sensor but it would also run a little bad on startup if those were the issue.
so, when I drive it slow, like 15-20 mph (I'm a photographer who goes on back roads a lot, looking for wildlife), then shut the car off, and try to restart it, all I get is a thunk kind of click. Nothing else. We've replaced the starter, the battery, the cam sensor, the spark plug cables and it still happens. Starts fine when jumped. dash lights and windows work. Just one click and won't start. Then I wait 15 minutes, and try again, and it starts right up. It seems to happen consistently when I've been driving slow, and when the engine has been running normally for a while, so hot. I'm just flabbergasted, stumped, and so is everyone we've asked about it. Help?
I just replaced the engine in my 2000 sohc ej25 outback and it ran fine until it spun a bearing, I got a good motor from a junk yard and used almost everything from my old motor and now it will not start it cranks and cranks it has fuel, but it has weak, intermittent spark I have swapped the coil, cam and crank sensors, map sensor tps and I even went through my entire wire harness and repaired 5 broken wires and two connectors and still no change. I’m totally stumped. I checked timing also I took the cam gear off to make sure it was the proper gear for the car and the crank gear both have the 7 teeth. Any help would be appreciated
Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. around all the hoses and seals on the intake manifold. It sounds like a fuel starvation problem though. Can you get it to sputter with a little starting fluid? You should be able to pull a vacuum hose and squirt directly into the intake manifold. With a junkyard engine, the little pinholes on the fuel injectors may be varnished over with old gas and may need a good cleaning.
I have the same car as in the video. It has oil consumption issues and I noticed it hard starts recently. Subaru of American wont replace the motor because it doesn't consume enough oil. I have a feeling my issues are related.
In the video, you made mention that on our Legacy there are common issues. Is there a is there a video that you made that references this or I can you type a reply that outlines them? I'd like to know what to look forward to. I just hit 135k miles and changed the rear passenger side bearing, and my car is throwing a weird code that I think maybe O2 sensor but I'm going to have it read at a dealer because I had it read at an AutoZone but it said that there was something wrong with the rich to lean and lean to rich ratio in both banks. I also had a code for the maf sensor 2 winters ago that disappeared but now that I know how easy it is to clean I'm gonna just do that.
It is far worse than what he is talking about .....look at all the complaints since 2007 through 20013 then just as big of issues with the 20014 and 2015. If you start with a power steering leak and have warranty.......get it to a dealer. Their limit is 60K and my son first changed the oil at 1000 miles and every 3000 after that. It is not a warn engine it is the connected components to the steering ...power train....long block....radiator ....transmission. Google it.....it is true.....it happened to us. Thank God above that it was in the dealer's hands when it blew apart. We got a new short block and reworked valves...etc...etc.
@@sawlovesyou52 they changed mine when I asked why it was burning oil so quickly. I was just under 85k then. They did an oil consumption test after an oil change confirming it was burning oil and swapped out the necessary components. No extra warranty. No additional questions.
@No. 6 nah . They swapped it out at the lumberton Subaru in NJ. I bought maf sensor cleaner and it fixed my cel fix for a bit. It comes on every now and again. But in nj they pump the gas for you so I suspect it comes on cuz they're not closing the gas cap properly. I'd tighten it and it goes off after a couple trips to and from work.
Hey so a girlfriend of mine has a subaru outback I think it's an 08 and she ran out of gas and then her battery died and once I got it started back up all of a sudden the power steering is making noise and over flowing fluid ,any guesses what it could be?
Seems like you might have air trapped in the power steering system. Is it foamy or milky looking? You can jack up the front of the car and turn the steering from side to side while applying a vacuum to the power steering reservoir. A vacuum brake bleeder works well for this. It is a pretty standard process if you replace a power steering pump, so you can google that to get a better idea.
I have a 2019 impreza myself with 3,510 miles on it and it stalled halfway between work to home which is only a 10 minute drive without showing any warning signs prior and left me stranded, this is my first non american car I've ever owned and so far I'm wanting my GM back after having a old pontiac and chevy never leaving me stranded once and one had just over 100,000 and other almost 55,000.
@@Sam21998 update on my impreza... i had a faulty battery. They put a cheap battery in it. The mechanic said 3 out of 100 cars go threw that problem. I'm now at 12k miles no problems at all.
That's good to hear, my dealership said my car had a stalled out code on it they couldn't figure out what it was, I'll keep you updated with whatever happens, it's in the shop now, hopefully done soon because I still have to work and have my friend driving me till then.
@@yourmanzach2307 yup I work at a tire factory but our dim witted governor deemed everyone almost essential and wonders why we're the hot spot in america. 😒🤔😂😭 my friends brand new truck broke down when it only had 280 miles on it, had a short in it somewhere now it has 5,000 and that was the only issue. I'm hoping my subaru is simple fix but since it stalled out and threw a million codes on it just in 5 minutes of driving it, probably not going to be good news I can bet but hopefully since I've only had it since September and it only has 3,510 miles on it that anything wrong with it will be covered, glad I took out extended warranty, this is my first ever foreign car I've ever owned and definitely thinking I shouldve stuck with GM if they had an AWD car. Only reason I bought the Impreza, glad it wasn't a turbo either. I refuse to ever buy a turbo, they're too new, CVT transmissions are too new too but until I get more comfortable driving stick shift in bumper to bumper traffic it's not practical.
I have a 1999 Forester, mostly the car starts just fine but sometimes randomly it just won’t start. The engine cranks and will continue to turn over as long as I hold the key. If I leave it alone for a while and try again it’ll usually start. I’ve changed out the fuel pump but that didn’t seem to fix the problem. The car has an old battery but there’s no slow crank or clicking. Any ideas?
2006 legacy will randomly die at stop lights a few times a week, but also goes a month without doing it. Then its difficult to start but eventually goes. Been doing it for 2 years. Battery is old but tests OK. Has new plugs and wires. Its been very tricky trying to figure it out. Any ideas?
Could be a sticky EGR valve. If it occasionally doesn't seat all the way closed, it can act like a vacuum leak which will cause starting issues and can cause stalling issues. And since it can be intermittent, it could otherwise run fine and not throw any engine codes. You could also check the PCV valve. On a 2006, I would bet the EGR is pretty carbon caked though. I would otherwise check all around the intake manifold and the tubes going into it for a vacuum leak, or check the intake tube for any possible leaks that could cause the engine to get more air than is passing by the mass airflow sensor.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike I cleaned the EGR valve not sure if it did much. It does throw a code after you start the car back up. Cruise control light flashed and the code was related to crankshaft position sensor so i changed that also. Thanks for the response.
I just changed, cam and crankshaft position sensors, and it still stalls at stop lights and it will not want to start for like 15-20min then it starts right up and runs again until I have to slow down at the next light
Is it running and making a whining sound? Or the starter is making a whining sound ant it won't start? If it is running and whining it might just be the serpentine belt.
5:11 "listen while your enginer is running" Common Starting Problems for Subaru Hey einstein, the engine won't be running if you are having a starting problem, as in the engine WON'T START, do I have to say it? DUH
“starting problems” not “car will not start” this video isn’t specialized for you. i’m having weird starting problems BUT i can still get it to start up. jeez kid, listen to yourself.
I appreciate the breakdown and run through from simplest to most complex/costly, but also it's explained at a High School level so almost anyone that would be working on a vehicle can understand. you obviously had some great teachers in your learning
Your enumerating of the common starting problems is military-spec; Your presentation is easily the equivalent of a good Staff, Master, or SFC training his mechanics in the Motor Pool. Memory challenged as I am (disabled & wheelchair bound), I can still type some of these causes, and if I purchase a vehicle explore the few I can leaning on a car's hood skirt. With others, the cheap tester I can paste into notes & try these things before a service manager tells me maybe a hundred things that could need attention. That's knowing any car I buy is going to be fairly old. The stuck valves and/or low compression reasons for other problems like dirty valves or piston rings went just far enough. Most of what I have been saving for w/ the possible purchase of an old Subaru would be the major things in the heads (like gaskets), water pump wear caused by same. So with your good video I'll always be able to rule many things out first. Again, a definitely college level presentation.
I would add a time line with select able symptoms that are compartmentalized. ie no crank(or whatever layman term you wanna use) no fire, rough running, immediate or randomly dying.
I have a 2019 Subaru impreza and it was cranking fine but not turning over. It started up fine at my house, from on the way from home to my work which is only a 10 minute drive I encounter a small hill and then the speed limit goes from 30-40 mph there, when I went up the slight hill and engaged in the gas pedal it stalled to a complete stop, it went from 2,500 rpms to less than 1,000 rpms, I checked for a code and no codes were found but when it stalled it threw a permanent non flashing check engine light, battery light, traction control light, and oil light. I'll add it only has 3,510 miles on it and I've owned it since September of 2019, bought it new and drove it hours and hours away already had handled just fine but all of a sudden tonight couldn't go the full 10 minutes to work, it broke down halfway there and had to have it towed to dealership after ruling everything looked ok, nothing was loose, do you think it's a factory faulty repair needed? Have you ever heard of this ever happening to a brand new car before? Checked my fluids even. I'm still on the first factory oil in my car since it's well below 5,000 miles and oil looks brand new still and all the fluid levels looked fine also. First time I tried to crank it it just crank, if I kept it going it sounded like it was going to start and then just dropped off and stopped. Update... mechanic at dealer said it is throwing a stall code but can't figure out the issue, asked for my extra key to help solve the issue.
Hey, not sure if you figure out the issue yet but I think it’s your brake light switch “BLS” that went bad. I think there’s a recall for it but it’s a pretty easy fix under your steering wheel.
@@duckiedx they said it was a bad tank of gas or it had e-85 in it and the gas station filled up 87 with e-85 by accident at Sam's club, not sure if it buy that story since it was the dealership, it ended up costing me $400 for them to drain the tank and clean out the deposits they said had accumulated inside, I feel like they were trying to scam me so from now on I'll be paying the extra money and going to the second closest dealership where I bought the car at and I've been putting in ams oil upper cylinder lubricant, gasoline additive plus I've been putting in a little higher than 87 either 89 or 90 or even 93 depending on the gas station and what they have. I just thought it was bs that they said that considering the miles and it not even being a year old yet and that happening to me especially on my way to work, had to use a non paid sick day and lose holiday pay because of that damn car. My first Japanese car so far and so far because of that I don't hardly drive it anymore if it wants to act that way. 😒 should've stuck with my GM cars like the 2 others I had before I ran into the ground.
Just got my first subaru a 2023 crosstrek and holy cow this vehicle has so many fuses 3+ Main Boxes w/ whats gotta be 150+ fuses I've found as well as 10+ different Various specialized Fuse types on top of that tracking down a mischievous saboture is not an easy task forsure!
Welcome to Subaru ownership! In all likelihood, you will probably never have a single fuse blow though. Unless a rodent gets into your wiring or the car is in an accident, it is pretty unlikely to have an electrical short or overload anymore.
For my sube the air intake was the problem it would crank but just not start got it taken care of and works now first car btw toot toot
Engine ground, ignition +,battery +. No spark/no injector pulse might be the ECU. 02 2.5 ECUs are notorious.
My subura Tribeca 2008 had a fuel injector leaking, it didn’t send any codes. But I didn’t follow these instructions and had the ignition coil and fuel injectors replaced.
You forgot about purge valve solenoid will also cause hard start and fuel smell.. good content anyway
on my 2004 Forester, turn the key on, wait a few seconds then a rapid clicking noise starts, sounds like a relay. engine cranks but won't fire.
2006 2.5 liter outback. flickering dashboard and radio lights after head gasket replacement . ground ? fuse ? alternator ?
I have a 2013 Impreza that will occasionally not start after its been ran a bit. It will just crank for the first try but always starts on the second.
I have a 2013 subaru impreza 2.0, and have the same problem. I have done the PCV valve, fuel pump relay, the fuel pump. So I just installed the relay, behind the glovebox, and it seemed to have help. However sometimes i still have a long crank, but no more then 2 seconds. The fuel pump relay is located behind the glovebox so you will need to take out the glove box and a few trim pieces. But as of now, after running and starting their is no problem. I installed the relay 4 days ago, and i havent had one no start since.
When I turn my signal on my 2015 subaru legacy rpm drops I think maybe it’s that I have after market led headlights. Any other possibility?
A crank sensor tells the PCM which two cylinders are on top dead center. Only the cam sensor can tell which cylinder is ready for power stroke or spark. The PCM learns the photo if you will of the speed of the crank, if it slows down when power should happen, then it slows. This is P0300, if it happens long enough, info from the cam sensor can help the PCM tell which cylinder is a misfire say #3. Then code P0303 will set. I’m done here.
I have a Forester that cranks but don't start. I replaced the battery, the next day it worked fine. Now it's 18F and this morning it's cranking but not starting at all .
Any solutions? Alternator or battery cable erosion
Dude you got sidetracked with your truck pump story right when you were about to diagnose my issue! Can you please advise?
How reliable is 3.6r h6 in the 2012 legacy? I heard oil consumption is bad.
My 2012 legacy 2.0 diesel boxer won't start it's turning over fast changed fuel filter.. pumped the pump till hard on filter. There's a injector pipe going to pump in a U upside down on top of pump opened one on right as U look in. Diesel there when turning over . Use to run for 10 seconds before filter change and cuts out. Trys to fire. No codes up or pending codes air filter changed yesterday any idea. Would I tow it to start?
I have a 2011 Subaru wrx and whenever i floor it (to give it gas) it like grogs and twitches, it doesn’t fully pull. You can hear the turbo spool, but the actual car doesn’t drive like it’s supposed to. It feels like you’re trying to drive a car that’s out of gas, it’s like groggy. What could this be?
Seems like an air fuel ratio problem. Could be a dirty or bad mass airflow sensor or a fuel pump. Also could be an air leak somewhere along the intake tube or intake manifold. Or a dirty or clogged fuel injector.
Humble and educative
Any ideas how to diagnose the 9/10 stuck fuel pump issue you mentioned? Our 2010 impreza has intermittent starting issues, cranks strong but won't start, then another try and it will fire right up. Other times it nearly stalls after starting. Shop of course hasn't been able to replicate the issue.
It might be a sticky/dirty EGR valve which is pretty easy to clean. If it intermittently sticks, the computer will really struggle to figure out how much fuel to deliver upon startup. Also check all the couplers on your exhaust. They are held together by two bolts. If one of the two rusts off it can wiggle the pipe more closed which again will throw the computer's guess on how much fuel to deliver out of whack since the back pressure is more variable. It could just be the fuel pump which is accessable under the back seat, but you might as well check those easy things first. Mine actually did the same thing for a while and the EGR cleaning cleared it up.... but my muffler fell off right around the same time, so that's where my exhaust coupler theory comes in as a small chance that may have actually been the cause
2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 4cyl here, car stalled while driving 55mph, wont start now. Car made no sound, no lights came on, nothing weird happened when it stalled. Just died.
Hi when I start my subaru legacy 2010 cold its rev itself at 2000rev I went at auto zone it gave me the maf sensor error
I have a 2013 Subaru Outback
The engine light is on and brake light and cruise control lights are flashing. And it starts rough when is hasn’t been ran for a while. Any thoughts? My mechanic wants to change timing belt which I don’t think is the problem and sounds expensive
It’s possible your catalytic converter is starting to fail due to being clogged. The only way to determine this is to have your shop conduct an emissions test. They can rule this out for you. Good luck!
Thanks for the top tips.
My 98 impreza turbo cranks slow. The alternator is reading 14.4 volts on the battery, but my battery is new at 60amps and 500 but do I need a stronger battery?
great video, keep it up man
Bought a 07 Impreza missing a e02 censor drove good for about 40 mins started stalling at lights and eventually smoked out on me
My buddy owns Subaru it cranks then clutters sounds like fuel issue
I have a 2014 2.5i Outback and have intermittent starting issues. It always cranks but sometimes takes a while to actually start. I replaced the battery and spark plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor. The issue is still there. It is not temperature dependent. I am thinking it may be something with fuel pressure, but I want to make sure before removing the fuel pump from inside the tank... any thoughts?
Check your EGR valve. Mine got a lot of carbon build up and was doing a similar thing with no check engine light. I cleaned it super good with a wire bristle brush and some carb cleaner and it has been fine ever since. If it doesn't seat all the way closed reliably, it can act like an intermittent vacuum leak.
Cool Stuff Guys Like i took your advice and just cleaned it. Hopefully the issue doesnt come back. Have you ever tried seafoam in your subaru?
@@lewis7394 did your issue solved? This is happening with my 2013 Impreza battery was replaced & spark plugs but it’s happening again
Same thing with my 2012 impreza gonna check that now thanks for the comments.
hey I have a 06 outback and it wont start. what would cause the motor to crank for 1 sec and thats it.? it wont stay cranking
Sorry for the late response. It could be the starter solenoid. That would usually make a click sound or just start to crank then you would hear the starter freely spinning. Also could be the battery. That would be more of a slow attempted crank for maybe two revolutions, then stop. If you jump it and it starts, it is probably the battery. Did you end up figuring out the problem?
I have a IAC VALVE and when I replace it and I notice coolant dripping off the IAC VALVE, What would you think???
Great video! I have a 2005 wrx ej205 non Avcs and engine im installing a ej205 avcs but car will not start. I changed the cam sensor. Dont know if im supposed to change the camgear because it has some kind of oil that flows inside. Non avcs camgear doesn't have that =/ any advise?
I've been having an issue with my 2012 outback. In cold weather when I put the key in, all power comes on, air fans work, etc. However, when I turn the key nothing happens. No clicking sound, no engine turning over or trying to turn over, just nothing. When the weather gets warmer the problem goes away. From researching the problem, someone suggested to stomp the clutch down a few times (this car is manual) and then try to start--they said it might be the neutral safety switch. The stomping actually worked and the car started when it was cold outside. Do you think im on the right path with trying to find the neutral safety switch?
Yes, it does sound like the neutral safety switch or in your case the clutch safety switch. It might actually not be a faulty switch but might not be depressing far enough to click. You may be able to adjust it a bit to fix the problem. My Subaru is an automatic, so I don't know the exact location but it should be up under the dash near the clutch pedal linkage somewhere.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike Awesome, thanks for the sound advice!
I'm in the same situation kinda..my 2009 forester doesnt make any sound or clicks..just nothing.everything powers up.just wont crank.it doesnt happen often maybe 3 times a month.after a few minutes it then cranks.i just dont understand.
Forums are mostly usless.There's always the guy who asks the question, then you get 300 guys saying I have the same issue, has anyone solve the problem.?
How about loose starter wire?
Thanks for info I’ve had my 2008 sti just suddenly die on me and will not crank over at all the temperature is in the max but car is cool there’s an abs light and a a light that looks like a car on tilt with line through it.my Subaru is a 2008 sti hatch ej25 please can someone help me out with info on this.I’ve checked the fuses a can see under foot well and bonnet it’s a uk model
95 Impreza starts normally most of the time. sometimes cranks but won't start, and sometimes turning the key does nothing, I come back about 20min later it starts. Anyone know which wires/connections should I be looking at first? This issue seems to only happen when engine is warm never happened on a cold start
same here...never happens on a cold start..only when its warm out.
@@dinkyluvsmusic crank no start was a bad cam position sensor, pre OBDII subaru has self diagnosis black plugs under steering column to read fault codes, if there is no codes and it randomly just clicks and no crank it's probably bad ignition wires or starter motor
@@bobriley000444 pre OBDII ???
Have older subaru ....could you tell me more about being able to do codes..no plug in place like newer ones...something about under steering column ???
Thanks for this video, really helpful.
Any ideas if my intermittent starting problems goes from 100% starting to nothing- no crank, no noise whatsoever
Maybe a neutral safety switch or a bad cell in the battery that is intermittently shorting out.
My 2006 Subaru Legacy won't start! I've checked the fuse! I've replaced the battery and starter but that's all I did??? Any recommendations??????
Is it cranking? If it is cranking but not starting it might be the fuel pump or a spark issue. If it isn't doing anything at all it might be the neutral safety switch.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike where is the neutral safety switch located???????
@@jimmyhardnett7422 i'd like to know this as well. I can't find a service manual PDF for my 2012 outback.
@@jimmyhardnett7422 my 2010 Impreza has it next to the shifter in a small capped hole. no idea if this is standard, GL
Whst about furl pressure regulator??
My car is a 2006 grand marguise can you tell me what do I have a new battery a new alternator,and ,and a starter in it and it still want crank up regular up the way like a regular car do I have to jump starter every day can you tell me what do I have to put my car in neutral to crank up to.
I have outback 2011 . While stopping on stop sign or when need to stop suddenly . Engine stops . Any idea 💡.
Sounds like a transmission or transmission valve body issue. Is it a CVT? Does it try to lurch forward if you release the brake when it is stalling? It could also be a vacuum leak, stuck EGR or a dirty mass airflow sensor but it would also run a little bad on startup if those were the issue.
so, when I drive it slow, like 15-20 mph (I'm a photographer who goes on back roads a lot, looking for wildlife), then shut the car off, and try to restart it, all I get is a thunk kind of click. Nothing else. We've replaced the starter, the battery, the cam sensor, the spark plug cables and it still happens. Starts fine when jumped. dash lights and windows work. Just one click and won't start. Then I wait 15 minutes, and try again, and it starts right up. It seems to happen consistently when I've been driving slow, and when the engine has been running normally for a while, so hot. I'm just flabbergasted, stumped, and so is everyone we've asked about it. Help?
It's a 1997 Subaru Legacy wagon with 114,000 miles on it. Good car except for this.
and it doesn't throw a code either.
Me car has major lag, like if I pedal to the medal it lags and doesn’t go fast. Do you know why this is?
I have the same car
I just replaced the engine in my 2000 sohc ej25 outback and it ran fine until it spun a bearing, I got a good motor from a junk yard and used almost everything from my old motor and now it will not start it cranks and cranks it has fuel, but it has weak, intermittent spark I have swapped the coil, cam and crank sensors, map sensor tps and I even went through my entire wire harness and repaired 5 broken wires and two connectors and still no change. I’m totally stumped. I checked timing also I took the cam gear off to make sure it was the proper gear for the car and the crank gear both have the 7 teeth. Any help would be appreciated
Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. around all the hoses and seals on the intake manifold. It sounds like a fuel starvation problem though. Can you get it to sputter with a little starting fluid? You should be able to pull a vacuum hose and squirt directly into the intake manifold. With a junkyard engine, the little pinholes on the fuel injectors may be varnished over with old gas and may need a good cleaning.
Tiny voltage leak from starter can leads wrong inductions for sensors!
How does rpm gage behave when you crank?
If u in PA i can give you a contact
I have the same car as in the video. It has oil consumption issues and I noticed it hard starts recently. Subaru of American wont replace the motor because it doesn't consume enough oil. I have a feeling my issues are related.
Does this affect 3.6r h6. I am looking for a 2012 legacy
@@rolldog82 I believe its only 2013-14.
@@RT-wp6fd 2012 legacy 3.6r should be good then right? No problems. Awd h6 not a Camry or Accord is what I am looking for. No recalls do you know.
@@rolldog82 not as far as I know. I think they made the 2.5 xt back then for the legacy which is turbo. May be another option for you besides the 3.6.
My mistake legacy GT
In the video, you made mention that on our Legacy there are common issues. Is there a is there a video that you made that references this or I can you type a reply that outlines them? I'd like to know what to look forward to. I just hit 135k miles and changed the rear passenger side bearing, and my car is throwing a weird code that I think maybe O2 sensor but I'm going to have it read at a dealer because I had it read at an AutoZone but it said that there was something wrong with the rich to lean and lean to rich ratio in both banks. I also had a code for the maf sensor 2 winters ago that disappeared but now that I know how easy it is to clean I'm gonna just do that.
It is far worse than what he is talking about .....look at all the complaints since 2007 through 20013 then just as big of issues with the 20014 and 2015. If you start with a power steering leak and have warranty.......get it to a dealer. Their limit is 60K and my son first changed the oil at 1000 miles and every 3000 after that. It is not a warn engine it is the connected components to the steering ...power train....long block....radiator ....transmission. Google it.....it is true.....it happened to us. Thank God above that it was in the dealer's hands when it blew apart. We got a new short block and reworked valves...etc...etc.
@@sawlovesyou52 they changed mine when I asked why it was burning oil so quickly. I was just under 85k then. They did an oil consumption test after an oil change confirming it was burning oil and swapped out the necessary components. No extra warranty. No additional questions.
@No. 6 nah . They swapped it out at the lumberton Subaru in NJ. I bought maf sensor cleaner and it fixed my cel fix for a bit. It comes on every now and again. But in nj they pump the gas for you so I suspect it comes on cuz they're not closing the gas cap properly. I'd tighten it and it goes off after a couple trips to and from work.
Hey so a girlfriend of mine has a subaru outback I think it's an 08 and she ran out of gas and then her battery died and once I got it started back up all of a sudden the power steering is making noise and over flowing fluid ,any guesses what it could be?
Seems like you might have air trapped in the power steering system. Is it foamy or milky looking? You can jack up the front of the car and turn the steering from side to side while applying a vacuum to the power steering reservoir. A vacuum brake bleeder works well for this. It is a pretty standard process if you replace a power steering pump, so you can google that to get a better idea.
I have a brand new impreza 1900 miles and had rapid clicking sounds and would not start! Ridiculous
I have a 2019 impreza myself with 3,510 miles on it and it stalled halfway between work to home which is only a 10 minute drive without showing any warning signs prior and left me stranded, this is my first non american car I've ever owned and so far I'm wanting my GM back after having a old pontiac and chevy never leaving me stranded once and one had just over 100,000 and other almost 55,000.
@@Sam21998 update on my impreza... i had a faulty battery. They put a cheap battery in it. The mechanic said 3 out of 100 cars go threw that problem. I'm now at 12k miles no problems at all.
That's good to hear, my dealership said my car had a stalled out code on it they couldn't figure out what it was, I'll keep you updated with whatever happens, it's in the shop now, hopefully done soon because I still have to work and have my friend driving me till then.
@@Sam21998 so you are essential? So am i! Hope no more problems happen.
@@yourmanzach2307 yup I work at a tire factory but our dim witted governor deemed everyone almost essential and wonders why we're the hot spot in america. 😒🤔😂😭 my friends brand new truck broke down when it only had 280 miles on it, had a short in it somewhere now it has 5,000 and that was the only issue. I'm hoping my subaru is simple fix but since it stalled out and threw a million codes on it just in 5 minutes of driving it, probably not going to be good news I can bet but hopefully since I've only had it since September and it only has 3,510 miles on it that anything wrong with it will be covered, glad I took out extended warranty, this is my first ever foreign car I've ever owned and definitely thinking I shouldve stuck with GM if they had an AWD car. Only reason I bought the Impreza, glad it wasn't a turbo either. I refuse to ever buy a turbo, they're too new, CVT transmissions are too new too but until I get more comfortable driving stick shift in bumper to bumper traffic it's not practical.
I have a 1999 Forester, mostly the car starts just fine but sometimes randomly it just won’t start. The engine cranks and will continue to turn over as long as I hold the key. If I leave it alone for a while and try again it’ll usually start. I’ve changed out the fuel pump but that didn’t seem to fix the problem. The car has an old battery but there’s no slow crank or clicking. Any ideas?
fuel pump relay?
I have same issue with a 95 Impreza WRX
Following
2006 legacy will randomly die at stop lights a few times a week, but also goes a month without doing it. Then its difficult to start but eventually goes. Been doing it for 2 years. Battery is old but tests OK. Has new plugs and wires. Its been very tricky trying to figure it out. Any ideas?
Could be a sticky EGR valve. If it occasionally doesn't seat all the way closed, it can act like a vacuum leak which will cause starting issues and can cause stalling issues. And since it can be intermittent, it could otherwise run fine and not throw any engine codes. You could also check the PCV valve. On a 2006, I would bet the EGR is pretty carbon caked though. I would otherwise check all around the intake manifold and the tubes going into it for a vacuum leak, or check the intake tube for any possible leaks that could cause the engine to get more air than is passing by the mass airflow sensor.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike I cleaned the EGR valve not sure if it did much. It does throw a code after you start the car back up. Cruise control light flashed and the code was related to crankshaft position sensor so i changed that also. Thanks for the response.
I just changed, cam and crankshaft position sensors, and it still stalls at stop lights and it will not want to start for like 15-20min then it starts right up and runs again until I have to slow down at the next light
@@MrSkinahh86 Mine is doing a very similar issue. Takes forever to start.
I have a 05 outback it over heated then cut off I put a new starter in it and now it just makes a whining sound can someone help please
Is it running and making a whining sound? Or the starter is making a whining sound ant it won't start? If it is running and whining it might just be the serpentine belt.
Cool channel name
I have to jump my car off with a jump starter it need to start like a regular a car so I can get in and out .
check the heat sensor
Xfavor ..en español.....😢
Thanks I actually understand a little more about my car. Really appreciate it.👍
Oh crap - look at that title - I’m not a guy
Great video! Help me get familiar with my subie :)
5:11 "listen while your enginer is running" Common Starting Problems for Subaru Hey einstein, the engine won't be running if you are having a starting problem, as in the engine WON'T START, do I have to say it? DUH
Einstein would of said to check the timing which is only relative to where you are in space so really what are you measuring?
“starting problems” not “car will not start” this video isn’t specialized for you. i’m having weird starting problems BUT i can still get it to start up.
jeez kid, listen to yourself.
I have ran a full diagnostics on the Subaru and everything came back green lights but overnight it won’t start the next day. Any thoughts?
So volt diode and output, including battery came back ok. Wanted to clear that up.