Yes. The main seal has a chamfer so it's important to put it in the right way up. When you draw your finger out over the seal you should feel a small lip. Under pressure that's what creates the seal against the piston. The more pressure applied, the tighter the seal. The chamfer also allows the piston to withdraw when pressure is released so as to avoid drag. Dragging pads will cost you in warped rotors and knackered pads.
Thanks for posting the video , I am also a second gen Busa owner, will take note how the seal lip is positioned either facing inwards or outwards of the port if need to do in the future....
Great video man i'm going to fix my tokico too cause i clean the pistons and i saw the dust seals so i think is the time to take them apart...GSXR 750 99 same brakes.. Keep it up😉
my busa fronts were hanging and grabbing at low speed, took em apart and the body has grooves worn where the disks right, then the pad material wears and the disk wants to get stuck inside the groove.. i sanded both ends flat on one I'll do the same to the other tomorrow hopefully this works, $300 fora rebuild kit is ridiculous, before I do that ill get the radial adapters for $250 or so then get a pair of busa brembo 100mm for $250 or so.. I mean for another $150 I get brembo radials, um yes these things are just going to groove again, weak arse aluminum.. bizzare, previous owner opted for chapo chinese pads.. I went with EBC but I will slightly chamfer the edges of the pad bases so if they groove it won't be a sharp channel and it will sort of wear roundish and give the pad a chance to release off the rotor.. if these pads just do not work I will get a set of the same calipers to use up the pads then do the conversion, billet all the way, good billet aluminum...
Great video. As someone who isn't very adept at mechanics, this looks do-able. Would like to know a bit more about removing the calipers from the bike and what to do with the detached brake lines (do you cap them off to stop them leaking?) and how to properly drain the calipers (as your calipers don't seem to have an ounce of fluid anywhere in them).
Before you remove the calipers from forks brake all pinch bolts loose otherwise you'll never get them out. 1st step before removing the calipers is to remove pads and pump out the pistons far enough so they can be removed once on the table. Next suck off all the fluid from the reservoir with a syringe, that way you minimize the spillage of fluid after unscrewing banjo bolts from calipers. Then simply unbolt the calipers and you're ready to work. You'll have some fluid inside the calipers but that's not a worry, just invert them and let the fluid drain through banjo port. Make sure wheels or painted surfaces are covered with rags or foil as brake fluid will destroy the paint in no time.
Great video, I'm currently rebuilding these, all the seals are out but its really crudded under the dust seals. I did notice people say about the lip on the seals but looking at the ones I removed theres no clear lip?
Matthew hi Matt. By looking at seals it's pretty much impossible to spot the lip on them,best way is to put the seal in the channel and go by touch of a finger. If the lip feels barely tangible then the seal is probably put in wrong way so take it out and put it back in opposite way again checking by sliding the finger over it in the channel. Choose the position in which the lip seems more prominent. I know all this sounds a bit weird but i refurbed over 30 calipers that way and people were always happy with them so it works i guess:) Good luck with the work, take care!
dood look where your pads hit on these calipers, doing damage, mine wore a channel out and the base plate would stick in it, about a mm maybe 1.5 mm deep, I filed it back super flat then polished it so the pad base can slide, you may want to do the same here, looks ugly, its where they hit that small area, altho on mine all areas where the pad mase came in contact was worn and channeled some, those small ends were the deepest, managed to file it all flat however the pads will be looser, lest they wont get stuck in those grooves again
Hi! What's your secret to cleaning those grooves where dust seals sit? I'm currently rebuilding my SV1000 4 pot Tokicos and they are dirty as hell. Thought I'd give them a sandblast and then a respray with paint. But if I can achieve such a shiny result myself I'll gladly do it.
MIne look like they were at the bottom of the ocean. Lots of corrosion on the bare Aluminum surfaces, especially in the groove. It is coming through the black coating from the inside on one of the calipers it is so bad. And yes that little piston is stuck in there extremely tight. I scarred at least 2 pistons so far too (and only got 2 of 6 out on one caliper) Should I stop here and just get another set of (more rebuildable) calipers? Or is there a way to stop the corrosion (to keep the seals from tightening up solid 2 months after the rebuild)?
Christopher Young hi buddy. If they're so terribly knackered then perhaps it' better idea to get another set of calipers. If you have a Suziki bike consider replacing your calipers with 4 piston Nissins as those are just fantastic. Very easy to work on and great in termd of braking performance. Much less prone to seizing. It's the Nissins from early Bandit 1200 and RF900.
Christopher Young yes tokicos have stronger bite but must be really clean and nicely refurbed to provide good feel. Often they feel blunt which ruins the riding experience. So yes when really well renovated tokicos are good.
I am so glad I started with another set. For some reason TL1000 calipers are cheaper than Bandit calipers, yet they are exactly the same. Bandit riders pride themselves on riding in any weather, where TL1000 riders probably are more fare weather riders. At least that is what these calipers I just got show. Neither were any better looking than my bandit calipers on first glance but when I pressurised them with air, all pistons moved freely. They almost do not need a rebuild but I wanted to do it anyway. I got them apart and it was pretty easy to get them just as clean as yours in the video. I got new rotors too and they came with sintered pads. I only rode about 5 miles so far and it already is much better than the 4 pot Nissin calipers I am replacing. It literally has cut the lever effort not quite in half. Once they completely bed in it may be in half. I have enough power now to lock the front with 2 finger braking where with the 4 piston calipers (with ceramic pads) I could squeeze physically as hard as I could and could not lock them. Thanks again for the video and all of your great advice!
Have you had issues bleeding these calipers afterwards? I've heard that the most effective way to do it is with the master cylinder and lever off the bike sitting below the caliper
Abhijeet Gill , Red rubber grease can be used for seals and lubricating the piston before it’s put back in. Red rubber grease protects the seals allowing a slightly longer period between clean ups. Really good if you ride all year. If not a little brake fluid to lubricate is enough. Please do make sure it’s Red Rubber grease. Castrol is the one I use. A little goes a really long way.
Huge mistake using brake fluid for caliper rebuilds, use assembly fluid or grease.. ruclips.net/video/9kmaWATUM_c/видео.html www.nbsbrakesupplies.com.au/technical-information/why-you-need-to-use-assembly-fluids.html www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6494
Yes. The main seal has a chamfer so it's important to put it in the right way up. When you draw your finger out over the seal you should feel a small lip. Under pressure that's what creates the seal against the piston. The more pressure applied, the tighter the seal. The chamfer also allows the piston to withdraw when pressure is released so as to avoid drag. Dragging pads will cost you in warped rotors and knackered pads.
Thanks for posting the video , I am also a second gen Busa owner, will take note how the seal lip is positioned either facing inwards or outwards of the port if need to do in the future....
Exactly the same as Dude on his bike. Got spongy brakes. great video. I’m gonna do this at the weekend
Number 0000 super fine steel wool helps to clean up the pitons surfaces also good to clean up surface rust on chrome
Also ZX12r and ZX9r (amongst others like the early GSXR 750's I believe, later had the four pots) for the description, bit late but there ya go 😎
Great video. Only thing I do different is use a dremel wire wheel to clean grooves and pistons, I also use copper slip on the pins etc.
Great video man i'm going to fix my tokico too cause i clean the pistons and i saw the dust seals so i think is the time to take them apart...GSXR 750 99 same brakes..
Keep it up😉
Great video, I'm currently taking mine apart because they feel really spongy. I have no idea what I'm doing so this video is a massive help
Thanks! i was looking for that!
Those calipers are the same that are on the Kawasaki zx7r from 96 to 03
I'm gonna do the work tomorrow!
Realy god tutorial . the only thing that should be amend is that "the pin hasten been push correctly to the end. apart that is brilliant. Cheers
Great video mate,best brake caliper rebuild I've seen thanks
Good way to take the piston out!! Just what I was looking for Thanks!!
FYI 2005 Hayabusa only need one of the small seals because it doesn't have two of those pass over ports
Same here, just went to go look, thought something was wrong
my busa fronts were hanging and grabbing at low speed, took em apart and the body has grooves worn where the disks right, then the pad material wears and the disk wants to get stuck inside the groove..
i sanded both ends flat on one I'll do the same to the other tomorrow hopefully this works, $300 fora rebuild kit is ridiculous, before I do that ill get the radial adapters for $250 or so then get a pair of busa brembo 100mm for $250 or so.. I mean for another $150 I get brembo radials, um yes these things are just going to groove again, weak arse aluminum.. bizzare, previous owner opted for chapo chinese pads.. I went with EBC but I will slightly chamfer the edges of the pad bases so if they groove it won't be a sharp channel and it will sort of wear roundish and give the pad a chance to release off the rotor..
if these pads just do not work I will get a set of the same calipers to use up the pads then do the conversion, billet all the way, good billet aluminum...
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful. But after reassemble my calipers are leaking little bit. Any idea why is that? 😪
have you ever thought of maybe painting or powder coating your calipers? If so can you do a tutorial on it
Awesome video
Great video. As someone who isn't very adept at mechanics, this looks do-able. Would like to know a bit more about removing the calipers from the bike and what to do with the detached brake lines (do you cap them off to stop them leaking?) and how to properly drain the calipers (as your calipers don't seem to have an ounce of fluid anywhere in them).
Before you remove the calipers from forks brake all pinch bolts loose otherwise you'll never get them out. 1st step before removing the calipers is to remove pads and pump out the pistons far enough so they can be removed once on the table. Next suck off all the fluid from the reservoir with a syringe, that way you minimize the spillage of fluid after unscrewing banjo bolts from calipers. Then simply unbolt the calipers and you're ready to work. You'll have some fluid inside the calipers but that's not a worry, just invert them and let the fluid drain through banjo port. Make sure wheels or painted surfaces are covered with rags or foil as brake fluid will destroy the paint in no time.
@@Adikxx Great advice. Thanks!
Great video, I'm currently rebuilding these, all the seals are out but its really crudded under the dust seals. I did notice people say about the lip on the seals but looking at the ones I removed theres no clear lip?
Matthew hi Matt. By looking at seals it's pretty much impossible to spot the lip on them,best way is to put the seal in the channel and go by touch of a finger. If the lip feels barely tangible then the seal is probably put in wrong way so take it out and put it back in opposite way again checking by sliding the finger over it in the channel. Choose the position in which the lip seems more prominent.
I know all this sounds a bit weird but i refurbed over 30 calipers that way and people were always happy with them so it works i guess:)
Good luck with the work, take care!
thanks for the response, does this apply to both seals? is there a productive way to clean the grooves in which the seals sit?
thanks a lot very informative video
dood look where your pads hit on these calipers, doing damage, mine wore a channel out and the base plate would stick in it, about a mm maybe 1.5 mm deep, I filed it back super flat then polished it so the pad base can slide, you may want to do the same here, looks ugly, its where they hit that small area, altho on mine all areas where the pad mase came in contact was worn and channeled some, those small ends were the deepest, managed to file it all flat however the pads will be looser, lest they wont get stuck in those grooves again
Six pistons?! That's crazy. 😆
I am used to just one piston for each caliper on my Honda Fit 2012. Lulz.
Thanks bud 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍🏼💯🏆
Hi! What's your secret to cleaning those grooves where dust seals sit? I'm currently rebuilding my SV1000 4 pot Tokicos and they are dirty as hell. Thought I'd give them a sandblast and then a respray with paint. But if I can achieve such a shiny result myself I'll gladly do it.
Great video, doing my tl1000r calipers this weekend. Same parts.
What did you use to clean the seal grooves?
great vid, thanks
What a thorough video. Really well done... but please wear gloves. Your skin I porous and you don't want years of chemical build up.
doesn't the rough part of the sponge wear the metal of the piston?
No
MIne look like they were at the bottom of the ocean. Lots of corrosion on the bare Aluminum surfaces, especially in the groove. It is coming through the black coating from the inside on one of the calipers it is so bad. And yes that little piston is stuck in there extremely tight. I scarred at least 2 pistons so far too (and only got 2 of 6 out on one caliper) Should I stop here and just get another set of (more rebuildable) calipers? Or is there a way to stop the corrosion (to keep the seals from tightening up solid 2 months after the rebuild)?
Christopher Young hi buddy. If they're so terribly knackered then perhaps it' better idea to get another set of calipers. If you have a Suziki bike consider replacing your calipers with 4 piston Nissins as those are just fantastic. Very easy to work on and great in termd of braking performance. Much less prone to seizing. It's the Nissins from early Bandit 1200 and RF900.
I have those nissin 4 pots on the bike now. and yes they work reliably but I was looking for more braking power. Is the difference worth the effort?
Christopher Young yes tokicos have stronger bite but must be really clean and nicely refurbed to provide good feel. Often they feel blunt which ruins the riding experience. So yes when really well renovated tokicos are good.
Great information. Much appreciated. I think I will look for some cleaner calipers for a better starting point and rebuild those.
I am so glad I started with another set. For some reason TL1000 calipers are cheaper than Bandit calipers, yet they are exactly the same. Bandit riders pride themselves on riding in any weather, where TL1000 riders probably are more fare weather riders. At least that is what these calipers I just got show. Neither were any better looking than my bandit calipers on first glance but when I pressurised them with air, all pistons moved freely. They almost do not need a rebuild but I wanted to do it anyway. I got them apart and it was pretty easy to get them just as clean as yours in the video. I got new rotors too and they came with sintered pads. I only rode about 5 miles so far and it already is much better than the 4 pot Nissin calipers I am replacing. It literally has cut the lever effort not quite in half. Once they completely bed in it may be in half. I have enough power now to lock the front with 2 finger braking where with the 4 piston calipers (with ceramic pads) I could squeeze physically as hard as I could and could not lock them. Thanks again for the video and all of your great advice!
Have you had issues bleeding these calipers afterwards? I've heard that the most effective way to do it is with the master cylinder and lever off the bike sitting below the caliper
I must admit it took ages to bleed them but apart from that it was all pretty trouble free.
Good vid. Jingle was very irritating and unnecessary
use assembly lube or 30weight oil to assemble. not brake fluid. brake fluid is corrosive and if those were pretty they would be ruined
21nm? just tell me how many ugga duggas..
can i use grease to lubricate seals and caliper pistons ?
Abhijeet Gill , Red rubber grease can be used for seals and lubricating the piston before it’s put back in. Red rubber grease protects the seals allowing a slightly longer period between clean ups. Really good if you ride all year. If not a little brake fluid to lubricate is enough. Please do make sure it’s Red Rubber grease. Castrol is the one I use. A little goes a really long way.
Huge mistake using brake fluid for caliper rebuilds, use assembly fluid or grease..
ruclips.net/video/9kmaWATUM_c/видео.html
www.nbsbrakesupplies.com.au/technical-information/why-you-need-to-use-assembly-fluids.html
www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6494
How would you rate aftermarket seal kits as opposed to the Genuine dealer parts ?
Never had a problem with aftermarket seals.