Delboy's Garage, Suzuki Bandit Brake Caliper (Full Rebuild).
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- An invaluable 'How-To' video on restoring a siezed and tired old brake caliper back to perfect working order for just £7.50.. same principles apply to rebuilding any brake caliper, and it could save not only a bag of cash buying a new one, but also your life.
Also a tip on how to get the notorious Bandit rear caliper pad pins out in one piece.
12 years on and you've just taught me how to do my first caliper rebuild on a bandit 600. I Appreciate it, perfect video thanks👍
Glad I could help Lee, it's wonderful to know the old videos I hardly remember making lol are still out there doing the business! Thanks for taking the time to let us know.
BTW......Im working on 28 year old Performance Machine 4 piston calipers for my 1981 shovelhead.
I can NOT believe how mucked up they were inside!!
Its amazing I was able to stop at all!
Im gonna have to slpit the front caliper to really clean it up.
Love your vids mate....tx!
Thanks mate, sounds like an interesting project, have fun with it and ride safe.!
did this on my zx9r, rear brake was binding, cleaned it up but took me about 2 hours to bleed after constant swearing and kicking the cat etc, walked away, came back and took the bleed nipple out, cacked up was not the word, no cap ont nipple, it was so shit up that I couldn't see the bleeding holes, i cleaned it up with brake cleaner and a panel pin and a bit of elbow grease and it bled perfectly, covers for all of my nipples have been ordered, oo-er missus, good work, keep it up mate, paul.
Hi Rob,the best tool for this job is a good quality, sharp, 10mm chisel, use it to tap the bearing cups out of the head tube from the inside (the sharper it is the better it will catch the little lip they leave for you to bear against) & to get the bottom race off the stem just lay it on it's back on a piece of wood and tap the chisel in between the race the bottom yoke alternating side to side until you drive it off..hope that helps, mate, Del
The fluid pushes equally on the back of all pistons, but sometimes the free ones will pop out leaving the stuck one behind, the trick is to hold the moving ones in with a G-clamp leaving all pressure to push on the back of the seized one... it is very rare that this will not work, but if it's stubborn, then dip the caliper (still connected to the hose) into red hot water, this will expand the caliper casting quicker than the steel piston and help free it off... hope that helps, good luck, Del
Hi Andrew...stupid design or what?, but its an easy fix, and once they are drilled out, you can slip the pads out in a moment the next time you need to.. thanks for your kind comments mate, i appreciate the support.. Del.
hi mate.well done for getting stuck right in there and doing it yerself, good on you mate, 90% of bikers run a mile at the thought of stripping brakes....OK , the 'bar' you talk about is called the "Torque Arm! and its job is to stop the caliper rotating round with the disc when you apply the brake..with the caliper fitted to the mount, loosen off the axle then back off the wheel adjusters and push the wheel right forward, then it will line up, loosen the front bolt too and it'll all fit again.
Yes it is, if you are going to grease rubber, then red rubber lube is the right product, (i just dont have any lol).. make sure not to use too much mind, because for one it can melt a bleed onti the pads, and also collect dust to make a thick hard putty and jamm your brakes, putting you right back to square one.... just a very light smear of it, and wipe all the excess off.... thanks for your kind comments mate... Del.
Thanks del, just sorted it I was in a bit of a panic, I thought I'd messed the suspension up or something. The rear caliper was a nightmare, fluid went every where, one caliper bolt seized but local mechanic got it out for a fiver, took about 2 hours to bleed and then stupidly I used an old brake pad instead of a licence plate in between the pads.. it slipped out a little and destroyed them. But you learn from your mistakes and top blokes like your self.. so thank you again
Also Max...despite its visual appearance,,,and doing 20k miles a year, its better maintained than most shiney bikes i see at bike meets with thier rusty dry chains, and underinaflated tyres...so what would you rather have...a bike that gets you there, or a dangerous, pretty onrnament..?
Hi Mark... brak cleaner is developed to be used on all brake parts safely including the pads.. its a vapourising spirit and not an oil...so dried out grease and slime a treat.. and is a very good periodic tool for winter use...do the worst with soapy water and a hose as in my brake washout video...then hit it with the brake cleaner for a fine finish...! good luck, Del.
Hi mate, the simplest way is to re-plumb it by putting the hydraulics back together so you can pump fluid in behind it...use a small G-clamp or vice grips (with a cloth to protect) to clamp the moving piston in place and stop it coming out, then pump the brake lever leaving all the pressure to hit the stuck one... it should push it out fine... if not, then rotating the piston in it's hole by gently using grips or pliers can help to break it free.. hope that helps, Del
Yep, bleeding brakes is always a knack...try the 'upside down' method if you can get them off the bike, it works instantly and gives a rock hard lever too.... thanks for watching mate.. Del.
Thank for your kind comments mate, and i get what you say on the videos, they are a different mind set to us. With the brake pad pins.. its cool to split the caliper to get the pins out..but only when you are doing the seals too..when you just want to slip a new set of pads in, the holes come in real handy.... and yes.. for £3 you should have bunged some new seals on DOH..! Bleed it with the systme upsidedown. the air come to the caliper naturally, and then use the fluid to push the pistons out.
I don't know how RUclips knew, but I'm preparing to work on my calipers, 6 pot tokicos on my old J2 ZX6R (I believe known to seize at the slightest whiff of dust). I've only been riding a year and am psyching myself up for it. Watching you fearlessly approach these jobs is great inspiration. I'd like to thank you dad for teaching you, so you could then share the knowledge with us. This channel is pure gold! Thank you!
Hi buddy, I've actually made a specific video on stripping and re-building 6 pot Tokicos if you check the playlists, or just look up Delboy's Garage 6 Pot Tokicos... good luck with them, hope they turn out fine!
@@Moonfleet41 you are actually my hero! 🍻
Hi Mr Chuff... thanks for your very kind comments, and Penny says thanks too... i like to spread a little sane common sense in a world of uptight certificate hunting technicians.. its never as hard as they make it.. take care and thanks again... Del.
del thanks to you I am one hard braking fool! cleaned the pistons so they shine like polished brass ,flushed out the entire system front and back bled it correctly new dot 4 fluid new ebc double h sintered pads used copper slip and some really good synthetic brake grease where nessesary.My zx9r already had braided steel lines so I didnt have to change those.the difference in braking power and feel is nothing short of dramatic.the bke stops so hard and fast I practice panic stops just for fun. I was used to doing brakes on cars and it seems most mechanics neglect the caliper pistons and brake fluid kind of if its not broke dont fix it.Thanks for opening my eyes.By the way when I did the brakes on my brothers minvan I cleaned the gumline around the pistons and used a little red rubber grease. a little spillover from working on bikes I guess.If mjy boss saw me doing that to a customers car at work he would have a heart attack.I wish you would rethink doing a video on checking valve adjjustment.I have changed timing belts and chains know about tensioners and timing marks if i saw you check the valve lash on the streetfighter and explain the process of shimming it correctly it would give me more confidence to do it myself.You are an excellent teacher and one cool dude.Thanks always keep up the good work.Sincerely yours Russell
Hi Donovan, No my friend, just take the banjo bolt out, clip the hose upwards out of the way so the fluid in the hoses stays put, and open the caliper up on a rag so the fluid soaks into it and not all over the bench....then when you're done, just bleed it through... hope that helps.. good luck Del.
Now you see what a 30 years of experience can teach you. Thank you to share this with us simple souls. I've learned alot!! Keep going man.
Thanks buddy, appreciate your support.
Thanks for the in-depth guide! I was able to rebuild my rear and front calipers with no problem thanks to you, delboy. For the record, my pins came out no problem on the rear caliper - it just took a little twisting with locking pliers. Maybe pressing down on the brake pads to relieve pressure helps, or maybe it's just the difference in environment. In the southern U.S., we don't get much snow, so we almost never have salt on the roads to get onto vehicles and mess things up. Either way, it was a huge relief. The brakes are as good as new now!
I know the guide you refer to, and I'm pretty sure they can be un-bolted and removed, but if not, it isn't hard to bleed it horizontally, which is still better than trying to bleed downwards...air doesn't like going downhill LOL...other than that the trick is to build up pressure with 2-3 pumps, hold the peddle down & then open and close the nipple to release the pressure, truly is just a knack and trial & error, good luck with it, mate, Del
Yep, about 09.15 this morning, Got a replacement main seal and the chap in the shop said not to bother, Gave me a small tub of red grease FOC and to try that. Great videos btw thankyou so much :)
Del, cant thank you enough for the drilling the backside of the caliper them pins are the bain of my life, Thanks for the step by step guilde plus products can use to clean.
Bandit 600 Blackpool
Discovered a stuck piston this afternoon. Remembered watching this how to vid many months ago, so ordered the bits and hopefully can restore my 36 year old Brembo caliper in the next few days. Chrome covered pistons have gone rusty around the edges. Replacing with alloy. Your brilliant explanation gives me confidence to save a few pounds.
pj grumpy Good to hear PJ that the videos can help you out, good move on the new pistons, they'll make a big difference... take care and ride safe, keep in touch, let me know how it goes! Del
Hi Gary, well done on buying a Bandit, they are a brilliant all rounder mate..all i can say to your request for advice. is 'stay on top of it', little day to day maintainance saves a bundle on servicing..if you keep the bike tip top all the time with chain lube and adjustment, tyre pressures, cable and lever adjustments etc..then at service time its just oil and filters..easy..keep it all up to date as often as you can and the bike will reward you with loads of safe miles...take care buddy, Del.
Matt, you've learned more in that job that you would in a whole term at college, dont beat yerself up mate, every step is a new piece of experience....well done for getting stuck in and good on you mate... now go out and enjoy your hard work...Del.
Fantastic video! Thank you for going over absolutely everything in an easy to understand format at a perfect pace. Well done.
Glad it was helpful, best of luck with your projects!
This is so good in that you show how to sort out really messed up brakes. I've found them to be a bugger to work on but I reckon I won't next time. The bit on bleeding was particularly useful. Thanks a lot Del.
You're welcome Steve, glad it can help you mate.. ride safe aye.. Cheers, Del.
Hi buddy, well it's a relief to know it's not leaking from the seals - bleed nipples can sometimes fail, you are relying on a tapered seat, which has to have 100% clean seal, sometimes in the bleeding process a tiny piece of debris can get between the chamfered faces and hold them apart, this will certainly cause it to leak..brakes are always a challenge & no 2 jobs are ever the same - hope that helps a bit, mate, sounds like you are getting there! Del
You are a hero! I bought an old XJ600 (1991) to learn the misses how to drive before taking the exam. As it always go with old bikes, they have their little problems which can be solved with a bit of love, but you have to know how. I can't thank you enough for your videos, because I just restored the old rear brake (fully seized and wouldn't go back) with nothing more than 30 euros (the piston needed to be replaced) and a lot of time!
Wow, what a fantastic success, doesn't it feel great to restore something seized and worn out and give it a new life?! A small price to pay, even at €30, for safe brakes that work. Thanks for the feedback, it's good to know the older videos are still working!
im only 5 mins in and already wishing my boss had a fraction of your gift for sharing your knowledge. Thanks mate, you've given me the confidence to dust off my mothballed RGV :)
How cool is that? An RGV250 was probably the coolest bike of it's time, good luck with it, hope it goes well for you mate!
I would prefer to use a red rubber grease, just in case. Some greases can swell or damage the seals. 33 years in the motor trade. Cars not bikes. There is a lot difference from working on bikes to cars it would seem. Lots more attention needed on bikes as from finding out in a more or less full restoration on one at the moment.Great videos thank you. Great work.
Exactly what I doing, and exactly the same problem with the dust seals, my pins did come out (huuraaay !!). I like the tip for cleaning and bleeding. Great video.
Yes, mate, sorry I always refer to the master cylinder as the 'pump' as that's what it does! ... inside you'll find a piston with flared seals round it and holes to let fluid one way and not the other...you can buy the rubber seal kits for them, they aren't expensive, and they also come with fresh springs too...they can get blocked up with small particles of rust and rubber, so a good strip and clean out should sort it for you...hope it goes well, good luck, Del
With the stuck bolts just make sure you have an absolutely fitting tool so as not to chew it and a little free-ing oil over night often helps and I would NOT use an impact driver as they are aluminum castings and not designed to take sharp shocks... good luck with it, Del
Thanks to your awesome vid i have successfully rebuilt both my callipers on my Gs500 and saved me a few quid. Many many thanks del. lewis
Hi Steve - that's amazing mate, and price-wise it's even worse than that! £100 for pad replacement is pretty common, a local Honda dealer tried to charge me £50 for a pair of pads once and all shops will charge at least £50 per hour, so that's just the pads! ...if when you did yours you re-built the seals, etc., you saved even more, as most shops would charge more like £200 for a caliper re-build! Well done matey, you've learned something too, good on yer! ... Ride Safe & thanks again, Del
@travellar Thanks Claus, i think the little Tokico twin pot is used on about ten different bikes, which makes the seals cheaper and easier to get. and yeah, daft design making it underslung, it just acts as a crud collector...the seals were actually pushed out by accumulated salt... but nothing that cannot be cleaned out and sorted aye... thanks mate... and the name plate is seasoning in nicely too now.. ride safe... Del.
Just finished the rear caliper rebuild , all working fine , thanks for your great video and advice Del.
Your welcome Paul, glad you got it all done and that the video helped in small way! ride safe buddy, Del
Hi mate, if you have the system built up, then lock the moving piston tight with a G'Clamp, leaving the stuck one free, then try to pump it out using the brake pedal, if that fails then you could split the halfes and try heating the stuck side, the alloy casting should swell away from the steal piston, if that fails, just soak it in WD-40 for a day or so to soften the crud.. it will go eventually.. sometimes rotating it by gripping the edge with mole grips can free off the lock.. hope that helps
Hey buddy, that is exactly how I have the Hayabusa plumbed with a double banjo bolt on the master cylinder and a single line down to each caliper from the top - you can also run a piggy back system with a single line down to the right caliper...double banjo and then bounce a line from the right caliper over the top of the wheel to the left caliper. Either way works very well - Del
Thank you for all your videos! Looked around RUclips for something to help me strip down and rebuild the rear calliper on my Piaggio scooter. Not convinced with other videos saying to use sandpaper to clean the pistons up, so was pleased to find your channel! Managed to get my calliper all sorted with new seals and pistons gleaming after a polish with Autosol. Your expert tuition really helped me. I'm now watching your other videos as I'm really enjoying learning from you! Cheers!
+Starmax* Hi buddy, yeah, I've heard that kind of sad advice, and the internet is full of it! As you've seen, there's a right way to do everything... good luck with your projects my friend, and thanks for watching the videos!
Bugger the heat and quench, a light soaking of wd-40, some gentle patience, persuasion and the giant truckies flat head screwdriver I found on the road years ago has kicked a goal.
I can't believe how much crud has formed in there! Thanks again dude, you're a champ, best of luck with the numb nuts PBC also!
This is gold! My k1 gixxer 600 rear caliper is seized. The caliper looks similar if not the same! Was about to buy 2 new pistons. Thanks Delboy!
Cheers buddy, try and clean them up and if they won't come up, you can still buy them, quite cheaply, from Wemoto... good luck with it and lets us know how you get on !
ok cheers. I've just finished rebuilding the caliper now (3 hours not bad for a first timer haha), thanks a huge amount for the video, needed your tip for knocking out a stuck piston, and great tip for polishing! brake works like a dream now, thanks again
If you can clamp the moving pistons in place to stop them coming out leaving only the jammed one free to move that will focus all hydraulic pressure on the one and give it some welly with the lever & they rarely fail to come out...I did a video on moving a rounded bolt & if it's an allen bolt where the hole is rounded out then you can drill the heads off...but sometimes a second hand caliper from a breaker is reasonably inexpensive if all else fails, hope that helps, my friend, Del
part two
4. Bled the brakes twice using the squeeze and hold method while opening and closing the bleeder valve. Soft pedal after doing this.
5. bought a vacuum bleeder kit and bled both calipers again, twice per caliper. Still a soft pedal.
6. I now have a bungie cord around the lever as you stated in hopes of clearing any potential air in the lines.
man I had this issue last night and found out how bad the bandit rear caliper is.. started to drill from the back but needed a better drill bit. I actually managed to get one of the pins out too! what a crap caliper! Still havent done it and had to put the old pads back in for work today... lol joys...
Cheers Dell.
Hi ya, just rebuilt both front calipers again following your guide, and now I have brakes like little mofos! I think by following what you've put in different vids I've saved nearly £400 already on labour costs. You deserve a lot of respect for what you do and the help you give... Thank you
Hi Adam, yeah, sadly its almost an annual thing if you ride all year round, the dust seals just seem to get pushed out by salt and crud, then jam the pistons....but rest assured mate once you have done it they are amazing, spring right off again and the wheel rolls like its free...good luck with it matey, happy to help if you get stuck.. Del.
Hi John....Not had that mate, the only thing that tends to defy understanding after you have bled the entire system ten times, is the bobbins can be stuck, holding the disc cockeyed..(it only needs a tiny deflection) clean the bobbins out by spinning them and washing the grooves out with brake cleaner. If that still wont sort it. check you dont have a jammed piston by watching the point where the pads sandwich the disc, if the disc flexes as you pull the lever in, just free it off, good luck Del
Hi Greg, that's great news, i love to hear that someone has actually used a video to help learn a bit about their bike...that's exactly why they are there... well done on getting it done yourself, good luck with it and than you right back for taking the time to watch and comment... stay safe.. Del.
Ah i see, i forgot about the single piston type, its been years since i had one... Well done on getting them sorted, you have done yourself a huge saving there mate, calculate the time you spent on it, and recon that up at about £40 an hour (and thats cheap) and thats money on your pocket...which is what its all about.. ride safe Del.
Hi Dell, i did the front 6 cilinder calipers today on my 2004 bandit 1200. And i want to thank you for the tips on placing the new seals. Somehow i could see how to put the new ones in because on all 12 i placed them in the right way on the first try.. It took me about 4-5 hours but i'm really glad it's done now. Keep up making great videos!!
Congratulations mate, we love to hear that the video was a little help in getting you over the job... and doesn't it feel good once you've dine it and its all working.. Thanks for watching mate, take care and ride safe.. Del.
Of course you can bleed the caliper whilst it's on the bike, the hose is horizontal between pump and caliper, which is way better than pumping straight downwards on the forks, the air in the system will not be fighting it's way upwards constantly, but will kind of sit where it stays and then move when you pump the fluid through...if you watch the recent video on Penny's Harley I showed the easy method to bleed the front up for a fluid change, follow that if it helps, Del
This helped me a hell of a lot. I dont have my bandit on the road yet but i needed to do this on my scooter as the brakes where binding. After watching this i followed step by step and now my brakes are spot on. Thanks for the great tutorial Del and keep them coming.
Classic problem, connect everything with every fastener loose, then tighten up each fastener a 1/4 turn, if something nips up you can deal with it before it comes extreme, torque arms can sometimes hold the caliper in the wrong place, sadly with so many fasteners pulling in so many directions something is bound to work against another, torque arms are flexible, so don't be afraid to bend it slightly so it's in the perfect position, that's all I can do without seeing it, good luck Del
Hi Lewis, well done Sir, glad you got that done and glad the video could help you. this is exactly why we load them up, times are hard and it's great to help our fellow bikers save a few sheckles ... just make sure you double check everything after a few miles...good luck and ride safe, Del
The metal polish trick for the pistons is a great tip. Cheers !!!!
Yeah cheers Del, I was spewin'! I watched this, then thought how grand it was my 88 GSXR didn't have one. I'm refurbishing my rear caliper tonight, and have disappointingly realised it is indeed the same Tokico unit. Thanks a million for the tips, (3:18) I'm feeling lucky! Have a good weekend, mate!
Absolutely love the way you explain how to do stuff step by step. Thank you and your missus for your time and effort and just don't stop please. It was pleasure to watch your video.
Thanks so much for your kind words.
Glad you found the video helpful ... I am sure there's a proper Sunday name, but just search 'HT lead caps' for your bike and they'll come up and there are plenty on E-Bay ...good luck with it, Cheers Del
i just completed this on my scrambler, thanks man...it went so well w/ no surprises thanks to you...good trick for quickly bleeding before reinstall of caliper.
tsappers Nice one mate, glad it worked for you, and don't it make you feel proud to do it yerself... take care and thanks for watching... Del.
Thanks,first job on Saturday morning is my rear caliper as it is sticking on.Followed your front caliper service and it saved me about two hours compared to when I have done the job before.Excellent more power to you.
Cheers Graham 1200 Bandit rider.
Good luck Graham, hope it all goes well for you buddy... ride safe in the winter.. Del.
Delboy you're a star. I was just doing the rear calliper on my Pan Euro, and was searching around to find the best way of cleaning the brake pistons and came across this. I had a tube of Autosol in my hand at the time!!! (just wasn't sure if it was ok...). Based on your tips I'll crack on
Nice one Geoff, im glad we could help.. good luck with it buddy..
Great video Del! I finished cleaning and rebuilding a set of calipers for my project yesterday with this video showing my how it is done, thanks mate.
You're' most welcome my friend, glad it worked for you, it's a simple enough task, it's just knowing the anatomy of the parts eh?!
superb vid Del,took my back calliper off covered in salt seals popping out followed your video cleaned had to drill back of the pins job done thanks.
bill fishburn Good going Bill.. glad you go it sorted buddy....makes you feel epic to do it yourself aye.. ! ride safe mate... Del.
This was a really good video, you never think about these things like that type of dirt and grime in these, take em for granted too much, it really makes me look at the common sense portion of the maintenance on the bike. You always wait till it's too late and then it's one costly and two difficult.
Just recently bought a 1200 Bandit - thanks for all these great videos. Just stripped and cleaned my front calipers and about to do the back caliper. I used my polisher and drill to clean the six pot pistons - big difference on the brakes. Not sure why they do not make these pistons with holes to punch out the pins. I luckily managed to get all the pins out and have copper slipped them. Watching your new project with interest!
Thanks Bruce, brakes are never a logical design, but then i gues like all design its primary function is to be profitable to the manufacturer......thanks for watching mate ,and good luck with your bike... Del.
Thankyou Delboy. Great techniques and no contact brake cleaner. Though this video was 12 yrs ago
Only problem I have with my 81 GS 850 is my rear pistons were rust pitted, and there was aluminum corrosion around the dust boots, will be replacing ALL the pistons, and make sure I LIGHTLY grease the pistons when I reassemble them this time, so I don't ruin the seal again. :)
Love your vids, Sir.
Thanks ever so much for tacking time to do a vid on calliper a , I've just bought a bandit of eBay and disks are binding now with some heavy braking on and off trailor the garage said they had put new pads in but I can tell they haven't cleaned em up properly so now with your help il do it myself like you say it's worth doing and maintaining them cheers mate keep it up ant from Wales
I mate, i use "Solvol Autosol" metal polish, works very well and wont leave any scratching or abrasion... good luck with the task.. Del.
Followed these steps Del today and rebuilt my bandit caliper on the rear. Wonderful video mate and got the job done with ease. Top video my friend 👍
Most welcome mate. Glad it helped.
Best tutorial on this subject. Rear calliper are one on the most neglected yet important parts.
Have to say your vid's are excellent. Precise and no fannying around. Dare I say it, the best bike maintenance vid's on youTube. Keep up the great work. Thanks Nick.
+Templen T Why thank you most kindly Nick.. just saying it like it is aye..! thanks for watching buddy.. Del.
Sold.. a brew and a yarn is spiritual practice buddy....glad to be of help,,,take care aye.. Del.
You're very welcome buddy, its great to spread the things we know and help keep our bikes safe and on the road without paying the stealership to do it for you.... keep at it chap.. Del.
Hi mate, quickest way with the pin, just split the caliper in half and then you can get a decent pair of grips round it, but my drilling out trick works if you prefer that... good luck with the fronts, take your time and once it's all done, if you use the weekly 'wash out' method on one of my vids you'll never have to do it again! Cheers Del
No John....you'll know the master seal is gione if you hold it in and it gradually sinks back to the bar.....what you have sounds like trapped air mate....see if you can unbolt the calipers and hoses (from thier mountings) and 'up-ebnd' the system...bungie the cailpers to the garage roof so they are above the master...make sure the lines are streched straight to eliminate pockets of air..then give it over night..all air will be at the caliper, then bleed them where they are 'upwards', continued.
John, thats great news mate, and the exact reason we started this channel. glad it went well for you, good on you for gettin stuck in....take care, Del.
Delboy great video as are all of your vids. This video saved me a massive amout of cash as the garage qouted me £500 to do front seals and steering bearings. I got the parts off fleabay at a total of £50.
Cheers
a top bloke,, watched your videos many times before doing jobs on my bandit its saved me loads of time and money,,,,,keep up the great work bro your a legend
chubbs freer Ha ha, Thanks matey, not sure about legend, but happy to share the love...nobody owns knowledge aye... good on you for getting stuck in chap.. cheers, Del.
You clean off the grease residue when you finish with brake cleaner...and its much better for assembly than brake fluid as its much more slippery....thanks for watching mate... cheers, Del.
Another win, Del, and I will keep that handy in case it's needed on my own Bandit. Canadian winters are much too harsh for riding for the most part, but still...
Thanks John, glad the videos help you out, ride safe over the winter if you do, we hear from many Canadian viewers about how harsh your winters are, wish it could be summer all year round aye lol !
Hi mate,I've personally never had this happen,but I get what you r describing,the only thing I can think that could cause the pads to suck back too far is if insufficient fluid is being fed down to them from the pump,thus causing the natural hydro-suction to suck back too far..there is a 1 way value in the pump that feeds fluid downwards as more is required,if this is blocked then as the pads wear insufficient fluid is being fed in behind,try re-kitting the pump cylinder,that should cure it -Del
Del been watching and following your video for some time now, this one I saw some time ago, but finally got around to doing the rear caliper on my gsxr600 (same rear caliper as the bandit) . I had a fresh viewing of this video again, and tackled the overhaul of rear caliper and got it all done. Thank you for these videos, definitely the best and most comprehensive how to motorcycle mechanical on the net.
WOW, thank you Gary, that's very kind of you... this was an early video and not our best edit work, but I guess it got the message across and helped you, which makes us very proud... thanks for your feedback, it makes all the difference - cheers Del
hi del n penny awesome vids keep up the good work....last mot on the zx6r j1 he told me that the pistons in the calipers were strugling to come out not in a smooth operation....the bikes coming out after the winter in bed soon and after watching the above video you have given me the total confidence in doing the job myself waiting for the seals as we speak...once again keep it the 2 of you😊
+spykkee boi Thanks buddy, glad the video can help you, good luck with yours, and let us know how you get on.. all the best.. Del.
You're welcome matey, its a simple old job, and real cheap on parts.... the brake will be ten tiems better now you've done them.... good luck and ride safe... Del.
I just had my rear brake stick on last week while riding on my bandit 1200. Just watched your video, and then stripped my calliper, it's exactly the same as yours with salt inside and the seal has failed. Great video, I now know what to do to fix and rebuild it.
Nice one buddy, glad it could help !
Had to do me ZZR once a year. That dam salt
@boredofitall No Sal, the seal recesses are usually packed with salt and crud, if you dont clean them our completely the seals wont seat, and thats much more likely to lead to a leak. The alloy is very high quality and can be scraped carefully to gety it clean..also the only 'seal-to-steel' surface is the sides of the pistons which as i showed, must be gently polished to a mirror finish...
Hi mate, well done for getting stuck in and doing it yerself, its not hard as you found, and makes a huge difference to the bikes safety and saves you money too.... thanks for your kind comments, i think its important to share our knowledge about and pass on what we know... then the dealers cant rip us off so easily aye...lol... ride safe mate... Del.
Hello Matt, wow isn't it amazing how those labour hours add up?! Once upon a time fixing up your bike and doing those basic housekeeping based maintenance tasks were all part of the fun of owning a bike..but these days bikes are so much more reliable and dealers are so much better at stepping up and taking on any task we need, but boy do they charge! Keep at it, mate, and thanks for your kind words.
Hi John. Not really mate, you can use grease or brake fluid, its all just something to ease it all together, and they weren't exactly 'dry' with the old fluid wetting it all they can sometimes slip on ok... the key consideration is just to take real care not to force anything and make sure its all assembled gently.. are you going to do yours then, let me know if you get stuck and need any help buddy.. all the best for the new year, Del.
Hi there.. yeah sorry, a few people missed that... it is "Solvol Autosol"... and you can buy it pretty much anywhere...but if you cannot get it, any general metal polish will do the job.... good luck with it and thanks for watching... take care.. Del.
Hi mate, 750 H1 now that is an amazing bike - proper hard core GP bike in street clothing and a bit of an animal too, which makes them all the better! - take it easy in the bends and ride safe, mate, Cheers Del
Hi there, no i just used what i had, it was some "Autosol" alloy polish...but any metal cleaner will do.. just as long as its not too abrasive, the pistons are stainless steel, but could still nbe damaged by an aggregate thats too sharp... so a regular metal polish will get it.. you are only cutting the salt buildup and soft corrision off... good luck with it, and thanks for watching.... Del.
Cheers for the amazing video. Very informative and easy to follow. Just finished refurbing my front and rear calipers and I don't think I would have even attempted it before watching this.
Brakes work like a dream now along with my confidence that I can tackle these tasks myself without the need of spending £££'s to a mechanic.
Also will you be able to post a video explaining how to set the valve clearances on the Bandit. Fancy giving that a go as it's been a while.
simon hopkin
Hi Simon, well done on the brakes, not a hard job aye, and with the valve clearances, ive been asked for that a dozen times, but just not had cause to do the job in mine...but as we always do, if i get to the job at some point ill surely film and upload it.. The Bandit is laid up these days, and wont be back on the bench for a few months yet..
@russellgreenie By that i assume you mean PennyPitstop camera girl... yeah, she'll do for now...lol.. I dont really run the chanel as a constant source, but when i have things to fix i share them with all... my van failed its MOT this morning, so have a track rod end, and anti-roll bar drop link to replace before the weekend, then a service on the Bandit in the next 700 miles, (which is 2 weeks or so)...so lots coming, as and when it crops up..thanks for your kind comments.. take care. Del.
Fair play to you these are excellent videos. I changed seals, cleaned pistons on my 1997 Transalp front wheel after looking at your caliper renewal videos. Autosol was brilliant for cleaning pistons -spent about half hour with break cleaner and then autosol cleaned them straight away. Used a wooden food skewer to get old seals out and scrape clean seal grooves. Had to change left disc as well as old state of my breaks had disc worn down to less than 3mm.
Thanks Sean, im glad the video could help you mate... its easy once you see it done aye,.. Ride safe buddy, cold out there now..! Del.