Thanks for this video. The bits I really liked having toiled with my own servo motor installation and found ALL the problems using servos are; the micro switch mounting and operation. That is excellent and secondly keeping the horn inside the channel which will prevent the runaway case pulling the wire out of the tie bar. I have had that happen a few times and it is a real pain trying to get the now shortened wire back through the tie bar hole. It was hard enough before the wire was trimmed! I am going to try this out this afternoon. Cheers. Happy modelling!
A suggestion... a little blob of E6000, Aleene's 7800, or Gorilla Clear Grip (all are similar "SBR adhesives") in the bottom of the channel will hold the servo securely, but if you need to remove it, working a screwdriver under it can be pried up and removed.
Replace aluminium channel with cheap standard slim electrical flat plastic conduit. Cut short lengths. cut slot in sides of conduit : Servo just clips in no screws simple remove replace/ adjust . My layout is on the floor servos connected on top ( in short cut length plastic to existing hand operating lever. No back bending / swearing underneath . Using 2 x 6 channel servo controller ( also on the floor) = 12 points..
A few loose ends here - The make and model number of the micro switch. Did you tap those 256 holes for the micro switch The gage number of the piano wire and the source you bought it from A pattern on how to shape the 2 pieces of piano wire would be real nice. Other than these items - a nice clear how-to video. Please respond with these answers. Bob S
Hi Robert, I bought the micro switches years ago and don’t have a part number. I looked for low actuation force and a short straight arm. Yes the holes in the channel are tapped 2-56 for the mounting screws. I used .032 music wire for my HOn3 hand laid turnouts, local hobby shop carries a selection of wire. I just bent each wire as I went along, didn’t bother measuring other than eyeballing it. Hope this helps!
Hi Mike! I use the same .032" piano wire as used for the actuator piece. I made the first one by trial and error then just copied it. I have started using some super glue to ensure it doesn't pop out of the servo horn. Glad you liked the video.
Ok... great video... but maybe i missed it after watching twice... Question: Where did you purchase the Polarity Micro Switch? And specifically what part type. Again... embarrassed to ask but its a key component for the frog polarity. Please advise or time stamp in video so I can order specifically the same micro switch and wire it same as you have.
Hi there! I bought a bulk package of the micro switches off EBay years ago and I don’t have the specific part number anymore. Most likely they were a surplus item and the exact switch is probably no available anymore. A search for micro switches will bring up pages of results, I looked for one that had a low working force ( easy to push the button ) and that came with the short straight arm. Hope that helps.
@@slidevamr I'm really illiterate with these areas. Trying to set up a ceiling train with a 6 foot passing loop using fastrack. Want to surface mount some servos. Found some hobbyking has. Think they would work but no idea how to control them remotely or set that up. I dont have any of the TMCC, etc stuff.. trying to learn a simple way to do it remotely. Any help would be great
jimeronimo , servos require some kind of controller to send the appropriate pulse width signal to them. If you are interested in making your own controller search Google for Geoff Bunza Servo and that should bring up his great Arduino tutorials. If you are only looking to control a couple servos you can search eBay for servo testers and buy an inexpensive one for each servo you want to control. Hope this helps!
Hi Bob, I used .100” breakable header strips, mine came in 50 pin lengths but various lengths are available. Ebay or places like Mouser electronics are good sources. My last purchase of the female side were not the breakable style so I use a razor saw to cut down to 3 socket sections, this does cause you to lose 1 socket on each cut but this style tends to be cheaper. www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-40-Pin-2-54mm-100-Single-Row-Male-Breakable-Header-Strip-Fast-Ship/321667114644?hash=item4ae4daa694:g:k2UAAOSwrklU28sM www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-1-40Pin-Single-Row-Female-2-54mm-Breakable-Header-Connector-fr-Arduino-MSYG/173012784721?hash=item28485d9651:g:vK8AAOSwyQtVijiV
Great video! Fabulous video! Very informative. I just wish you had spent a little time showing how the servo is connected to the "octopus" and how the octopus is connected to the rest of the layout (power source?) If that info is in another video, how about a reference and/or link in the description. You still get a "Like" and sub'd.
hhc19avn, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Servos simply plug into the Tam Valley Depot board directly or via an extension cable if the board is too far away from the servo mounting location. I am using and old laptop power adapter that runs a 12volt bus around the underside of the layout and that powers the driver board and it provides the power to each servo. These little Servos can draw up to an Amp of current while moving so if you plan on having multiple Servos move at the same time be sure to have a power supply that can provide the necessary current.
Thanks for this video. The bits I really liked having toiled with my own servo motor installation and found ALL the problems using servos are; the micro switch mounting and operation. That is excellent and secondly keeping the horn inside the channel which will prevent the runaway case pulling the wire out of the tie bar. I have had that happen a few times and it is a real pain trying to get the now shortened wire back through the tie bar hole. It was hard enough before the wire was trimmed! I am going to try this out this afternoon. Cheers. Happy modelling!
Malcolm,
Glad to hear this was helpful! Good luck and I would love to see how it works out.
No razzle-dazzle nonsense. Love it!
A suggestion... a little blob of E6000, Aleene's 7800, or Gorilla Clear Grip (all are similar "SBR adhesives") in the bottom of the channel will hold the servo securely, but if you need to remove it, working a screwdriver under it can be pried up and removed.
Great video! This makes servos even more economical. Thanks for posting.
Kenny, glad you found it useful!
I love it! This is the way to go.
Nice explaination, clear and easy to follow / understand. Laurie
i like the modular design ! very nice
Great idea, very helpful. I am adapting this approach on the BDMRR. Incorporating some other ideas as well.
Thanks for posting 😊
BirminghamRails Glad to hear you found the video useful, good luck with your project.
GREAT IDEA AS SIMPLE AS WORK
THANK YOU FOR SHARE OTHER
Fantastic video thanks !!
HC Treintje Herman from Belgium
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
EXCELLENT
Excellent and clear presentation! Oh so useful! S.
Glad you liked it !
Replace aluminium channel with cheap standard slim electrical flat plastic conduit. Cut short lengths. cut slot in sides of conduit : Servo just clips in no screws simple remove replace/ adjust . My layout is on the floor servos connected on top ( in short cut length plastic to existing hand operating lever. No back bending / swearing underneath . Using 2 x 6 channel servo controller ( also on the floor) = 12 points..
A few loose ends here -
The make and model number of the micro switch.
Did you tap those 256 holes for the micro switch
The gage number of the piano wire and the source you bought it from
A pattern on how to shape the 2 pieces of piano wire would be real nice.
Other than these items - a nice clear how-to video.
Please respond with these answers.
Bob S
Hi Robert,
I bought the micro switches years ago and don’t have a part number. I looked for low actuation force and a short straight arm.
Yes the holes in the channel are tapped 2-56 for the mounting screws.
I used .032 music wire for my HOn3 hand laid turnouts, local hobby shop carries a selection of wire.
I just bent each wire as I went along, didn’t bother measuring other than eyeballing it.
Hope this helps!
Well done on this modification.
How did you bend and install the wire that actuates the micro switch? What type of wire is it? Other than that, great tutorial!
Hi Mike! I use the same .032" piano wire as used for the actuator piece. I made the first one by trial and error then just copied it. I have started using some super glue to ensure it doesn't pop out of the servo horn. Glad you liked the video.
@@slidevamr It took me a while to puzzle out how to fish that wire into place! I must say it is an elegant solution .
Mike Bickle Glad you have found it useful! I would love to see how you have implemented the concept on your Railroad. Ross
Ok... great video... but maybe i missed it after watching twice...
Question: Where did you purchase the Polarity Micro Switch? And specifically what part type. Again... embarrassed to ask but its a key component for the frog polarity. Please advise or time stamp in video so I can order specifically the same micro switch and wire it same as you have.
Hi there! I bought a bulk package of the micro switches off EBay years ago and I don’t have the specific part number anymore. Most likely they were a surplus item and the exact switch is probably no available anymore. A search for micro switches will bring up pages of results, I looked for one that had a low working force ( easy to push the button ) and that came with the short straight arm. Hope that helps.
Thanks Laurie!
Great video. How are you controlling the servo? Would you by chance be using an IR remote? If so how do you set that up to talk to the Octo 3?
Hi jimeronimo, I use the Tam Valley Depot Octo 8 driver board. I have their optional remote aligner that plugs into it to setup the servos.
@@slidevamr I'm really illiterate with these areas. Trying to set up a ceiling train with a 6 foot passing loop using fastrack. Want to surface mount some servos. Found some hobbyking has. Think they would work but no idea how to control them remotely or set that up. I dont have any of the TMCC, etc stuff.. trying to learn a simple way to do it remotely. Any help would be great
jimeronimo , servos require some kind of controller to send the appropriate pulse width signal to them. If you are interested in making your own controller search Google for Geoff Bunza Servo and that should bring up his great Arduino tutorials. If you are only looking to control a couple servos you can search eBay for servo testers and buy an inexpensive one for each servo you want to control. Hope this helps!
Looking for the reversable 3 pin connector, do you have a link to them please.
Hi Bob, I used .100” breakable header strips, mine came in 50 pin lengths but various lengths are available. Ebay or places like Mouser electronics are good sources. My last purchase of the female side were not the breakable style so I use a razor saw to cut down to 3 socket sections, this does cause you to lose 1 socket on each cut but this style tends to be cheaper.
www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-40-Pin-2-54mm-100-Single-Row-Male-Breakable-Header-Strip-Fast-Ship/321667114644?hash=item4ae4daa694:g:k2UAAOSwrklU28sM
www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-1-40Pin-Single-Row-Female-2-54mm-Breakable-Header-Connector-fr-Arduino-MSYG/173012784721?hash=item28485d9651:g:vK8AAOSwyQtVijiV
Regarding your wiring, don't you know that frogs are always green.. 😁
what is the gauge of that moving wire
Hi Holger , I use .032 inch piano wire.
Great video! Fabulous video! Very informative. I just wish you had spent a little time showing how the servo is connected to the "octopus" and how the octopus is connected to the rest of the layout (power source?) If that info is in another video, how about a reference and/or link in the description. You still get a "Like" and sub'd.
hhc19avn, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Servos simply plug into the Tam Valley Depot board directly or via an extension cable if the board is too far away from the servo mounting location. I am using and old laptop power adapter that runs a 12volt bus around the underside of the layout and that powers the driver board and it provides the power to each servo. These little Servos can draw up to an Amp of current while moving so if you plan on having multiple Servos move at the same time be sure to have a power supply that can provide the necessary current.
Aha!
Using Servo’s what? What is it that Servo possesses did you use?
Because if you meant servos as in a plural noun then you should have said that.