Hi again, I built about a dozen of these and they worked really well for a while. This last spring, I had a few of them come apart where the backs were glued and the front from the base. I really like this system so I decided to try to 3D print up some to see if they would work. After a few trials and errors, they came out really nice. If you would like, I can send you the pics of the 4 pieces that make up the build. I did set a couple up for the long leg limit switches and these you need to drill and mount yourself depending on how you place your arm. I'm not offering the STL files to anyone as the concept is yours and without your permission, I would feel like it would be wrong to do so. Pete
I mentioned in the video that the idea was borrowed from Dingo Servo Mounts. www.dingoservo.co.uk I just adapted the concept for my own needs. With over 100 points and signals to control, cost £££ Cost was a primary concern. 3D printing is the way forward and you need no permission from me (in my opinion) to market such items. I think they should prove quite popular 👍👍
You can save a lot of time and effort by using thin spring steel wire from the arm, through a pivot point and allow the rails to move from side to side. The servo provides a small amount of over-shoot and this allows the spring steel wire to keep the rail pressed against the side rail. No sliding mechanism is needed.
I’m hoping to work with a friend as he makes plans to get his model railway out of mothballs. I’m guessing I could 3D print a similar structure to what you have assembled. Thank you for a really well shot and edited video! All very clear.
Another well balanced and informative video. Watch out DCC Concepts et all! If 'their' products were a little more within financial reach for the average modeller - then maybe we would not consider this approach. I am impressed how you seem just to throw these bits of p/card together and form an operating point motor for less than a fiver (including servo). Thanks for the dimensions. Look forward to more of this kind of stuff in the future.
Very cool build. Love how you’ve both visually and textually explained your method. Really like the simplicity. And, of course, the linear motion you’ve achieved. Definitely will check out your method for my point motors. Humbly think this method also allows for smoothly operating ‘remotely controlled’ points, turnouts and even is an excellent possible solution to mechanize scenes. Thanks 🙏 for sharing!!
Brilliant way of overcoming the up and down problem with servos which I've been pondering since I opted for the same system as you 👍 great mounting design, take care and thanks again for a great video
Well done you. Thanks for the plug to my website. My only comment is that plastic mounts deteriorate with time especially if used in the loft of garage, whereas my aluminium mounts will last a life time. Also it would be very hard if mot impossible to change a servos should it fail in your mount. Regards Dave (Dingo Servo Mounts)
Fantastic! I’ve also been experimenting with servo motors and have built prototypes from Aluminium Angle and from 2mm MDF. However they all have a point actuator arm that pivots and therefore rises and falls. Your solution which provides linear motion is a great improvement… with the added bonus of provision for micro switches rather than needing to use separate relays. To test the concept, I’ve built one of your designs (although I like to have the servo on its side) using 2mm card for the housing and 1.5mm card for the actuator assembly. I’ve not linked it to a point but it works really well. In the new year I’ll build one from 2mm MDF with the actuator assembly made from Plastikard. Thank you, and I like your assembly line production methods.
My last layout that I had til the early eighties, my father built in an absolute block system with relays so you had to set a path rather than just a signal and point setting as per a lever arrangement. He put in neutral sections energised by green signals and a correct path using cheap RS components relays and he had his mate on the S&T work out the electricals. One of the reasons Hornby/Triang lever switches are so shaped is you could with a bit of jiggery pokery mount them into the roof of a signal box thus give you an actual signal box control, sadly no bells but it had the curious and fun thing of a main train forcing a following train to halt at a red and proceed as the next but one block cleared. I seem to remember he set it up controlled using bus bars and each energised section was under control of one controller. For years I had all the paperwork and schematics from this but lost them in the mists of time, it was insanely complex but actually worked and I remember showing off my layout to school which prompted the creation of a rail club. He used I think momentary microswitches as signal treadles and seem to remember the logic work was the first movement of the train into a section would energise that section but kill the section behind which a relay on the next section gateway would release the first relay to be energised which powered up the signal and track circuit. Sadly as teenage years took hold and girls etc became more important than model rail, sold it for a very tidy sum prob a couple grands worth in todays money as it was beautifully done spending much time with papier mache, chicken wire, paints and model buildings etc to make it into a very detailed layout and no LED's back then all incandescant micro bulbs which was handy as BR NX panel bulbs my father got me a whole box of which ended up in coaches, engines, houses and stations. The thing produced a LOT of heat and smelt like a burnt out clutches cod piece but it was brilliance homebrew.
With a small understanding of basic electronics its not that difficult. I pretty much taught myself enough to get by, a pro would be horrified or laugh at me, but I have managed to create route setting with diodes. crude but worked
great thank you i have 8 motors to build an have been pondering how to mount the servo motors i will be using a raspberry pi zero for the actual servo controller i did buy one three d printed contraption from ebay which was to say the least crude and had to be surface mounted your idea looks magnificent
Good morning Nigel and Happy New year 🎉. You remind me of a model railway Allen Millyard 😉👍 Glad I found your video on point motors as I'm about to start a new layout myself. I wonder there's a way to internally modify a small RC servo so that it doesn't need any external control just to give it a simple bi-directional sweep when the polarity of supply is reversed (the same as a tortoise)? I'll investigate this and report back. I did like your "tip of the hat" to certain work colleagues who I also know well 😂 I hope they supplied you with appropriate trainborne mince pies during the festive season along with the timings print off 🤔 😁👍
Like these! They give a nice realistic throw to the switch blades. Typical point machines on the real thing will swing Normal to Reverse in circa 7.5 seconds, so this replicates the swing very well. Simple switch detection via the microswitch as well. Nothing wrong with simple! As an S&T man (now retired) I would be interested to see how you tie your point detection in to your signalling, but I guess that will a future subject? Nothing wrong with relay technology - the real thing has used it for well over a hundred years. Have you had any servo motor failures? I guess you would replace the entire motor module in the event of a fault, then bin the servo? Well-thought out concept! Spot-on! 👍🏻 I’ll shut up now and go take my pills…
My self taught electronics is very basic. I understand micro switches and their electronic brothers, the relay. For the average model railroader, that should be enough! As stated in the video, the idea was copied from a Commercially available product. Having over a 100 points and signals, price became a large £actor. Many attempts were made to create something with simple repeatable construction. Some of the early ones have a Frankenstein look to them, still work though 😃 Haven't encountered servo failure yet. And yes, replacing the whole unit would be the answer. I did design a crude interlocking system, for my needs, a few years ago. Based on 2 pole changeover switches with hundreds of diodes. It worked, but then I discovered the Mega Points system. Expensive, but does more than I could ever hope to achieve on my own. Tablets? I need to take mine too 😝
How do you wire your electrofrog points?? The point motors have a connection for that wire to plug into?? I want to use servos for my points too. Look forward to your answer 😀
Brilliant! Please do a follow up on wiring the microswitches.... presumably one for frog polarity? One for lights? Cheers EDIT: Just watched modifying Peco points ...clear now, thanks!
@@paulhargreaves1497 Indeed 👍 Think I state in the video somewhere that I can produce these for about 20p (not including servo!). And when you have a layout with just over a hundred, well cost is quite important 😃
Hi, absolutely brilliant piece of engineering and solves one of major point movement issues also, (Tie bar keeps moving up and down) can I ask I assume the thin tube of styrene point up on the actuator has a metal inset that goes into the hole in the center of the tie bar still? cheers and keep up the great work.
@@Wallsrail Please see above comment from Buckingham Place "I assume the thin tube of styrene point up on the actuator has a metal inset that goes into the hole in the center of the tie bar still?l
@@repeters1 Ahh! Ok yes, its something I forgot to mention, Doh! The plastic tube does indeed hold the metal wire that switches the point via the tie bar.
Hi, I was wondering if you had worked out the wiring for the limit switches yet? I want to run some Dwarf signals, one on each side of the track with 2 color, red & green, LEDs to show which track was open or closed. Can it be done with 1 switch for both lights or will I need to use 2 switches, one on each side of the bracket? Thanks, Pete
No, not yet!! Getting around to it though! Should be able to do what you want off 1 micro switch. It is after all just a change over switch. I'm. gearing up to do a control panel video, which will cover how to do that. Not sure when it will be though, as got a backlog building up...... Thanks NW
A bit late in the dat, but I have only just come across this video. Brilliant stuff and well worth giving a try,. Which of the Hobby King servos did you use? the HTX900 or the HTX500? Where did you get the micro switch?
Re servos, err not sure? I use lots of Tower Pro SG90 They're equally good, cheap and easier to get hold of. I get the micro switches off ebay. Various suppliers, normally work out at about 50p each. go for the 27mm lever version
As you know, I am not very knowledgeable about these topics, i realize that as someone else has stated that you manage to do so much with some plasticard etc. I know you are a fan of Dave Fentons products, so wonder why you don't use his laser-cut framework servo mounts? Or have I completely missed the reasons why you chose this method. If so why have I gone wrong LOL. Got to say I really do enjoy your content, cheers Paul
Its the up and down motion of the operating wire that was causing me and others some issues! Having a linear side to side motion eliminates all of those issues. Dave does some excellent stuff, but gears his stuff to make you buy more of his products = brilliant planning and marketing!! I use the micro switch on the top of mine to change the polarity of the point frog, Dave wants you to buy his electronics to do this and doesn't make provision for attachments to his laser cut mounts. I've spoken to him about it. I've got a follow up to this one in process Thanks mate 👍😀👍
@@Wallsrail thought I had missed something important, thanks for letting me know . I too had had those up and down issues, but not brave enough this time to do why you have done . I have a surface one to deal with as well, any ideas lol 😃😃
@@Wallsrail I have constructed some 16 of your point motors and they all work brilliantly. I have also included micro switches as your dwg suggests for indicator LEDS.
Hi again, just curious what size drill bit did you use to ream out the 1/8" tubing for the screw? I tried using shrink wrap but i would have had to keep building it up to keep the threads from tearing through. Thanks, Pete
I built my first one today. I made a few mistakes but was able to jury rig / correct them with a few extra strips of styrene. Next ones should be better. 2 Questions, first, is the rod you used as a spacer 1/8" tube or larger? Second Question, why are there 3 fronts made in your diagram when you / I only use 2?
Excellent 👍 The tube is Evergreen 223 3/32 tube But can be swapped for another size depending on what size of rod you want to operate the point? Third piece of front is used as a larger platform that the micro switch sits on. I sometimes use scrap/off cuts for this. Entirely optional? Thanks NW
@@Wallsrail Thank you. I thought that was it but wanted to make sure... I also made a board similar to the Duplicate-It from Micro Tools for scoring and cutting the styrene sheet but I can't figure a way to post a picture of it in the comments here on UT.
Another Question......not sure why you use the #223 tube .........wouldn't a flat section work as well? Edit....ah, is that where the wire sits (and goes up through the baseboard to the point)?
Hi again,
I built about a dozen of these and they worked really well for a while. This last spring, I had a few of them come apart where the backs were glued and the front from the base.
I really like this system so I decided to try to 3D print up some to see if they would work. After a few trials and errors, they came out really nice. If you would like, I can send you the pics of the 4 pieces that make up the build.
I did set a couple up for the long leg limit switches and these you need to drill and mount yourself depending on how you place your arm.
I'm not offering the STL files to anyone as the concept is yours and without your permission, I would feel like it would be wrong to do so.
Pete
I mentioned in the video that the idea was borrowed from Dingo Servo Mounts. www.dingoservo.co.uk I just adapted the concept for my own needs. With over 100 points and signals to control, cost £££ Cost was a primary concern. 3D printing is the way forward and you need no permission from me (in my opinion) to market such items. I think they should prove quite popular 👍👍
What a great build, love it, thanks so much
You can save a lot of time and effort by using thin spring steel wire from the arm, through a pivot point and allow the rails to move from side to side. The servo provides a small amount of over-shoot and this allows the spring steel wire to keep the rail pressed against the side rail. No sliding mechanism is needed.
I’m hoping to work with a friend as he makes plans to get his model railway out of mothballs. I’m guessing I could 3D print a similar structure to what you have assembled. Thank you for a really well shot and edited video! All very clear.
Am not into the 3D printing thing - yet 😬
Suspect it could be done though 👍
Another well balanced and informative video. Watch out DCC Concepts et all! If 'their' products were a little more within financial reach for the average modeller - then maybe we would not consider this approach. I am impressed how you seem just to throw these bits of p/card together and form an operating point motor for less than a fiver (including servo). Thanks for the dimensions. Look forward to more of this kind of stuff in the future.
Very cool build. Love how you’ve both visually and textually explained your method. Really like the simplicity. And, of course, the linear motion you’ve achieved. Definitely will check out your method for my point motors. Humbly think this method also allows for smoothly operating ‘remotely controlled’ points, turnouts and even is an excellent possible solution to mechanize scenes.
Thanks 🙏 for sharing!!
Brilliant way of overcoming the up and down problem with servos which I've been pondering since I opted for the same system as you 👍 great mounting design, take care and thanks again for a great video
Thanks Mate 👍😀👍
@@Wallsrail 👍
Well done you. Thanks for the plug to my website. My only comment is that plastic mounts deteriorate with time especially if used in the loft of garage, whereas my aluminium mounts will last a life time. Also it would be very hard if mot impossible to change a servos should it fail in your mount. Regards Dave (Dingo Servo Mounts)
That's awesome. Hello from Canada
Thanks 👍🇨🇦
Fantastic!
I’ve also been experimenting with servo motors and have built prototypes from Aluminium Angle and from 2mm MDF. However they all have a point actuator arm that pivots and therefore rises and falls. Your solution which provides linear motion is a great improvement… with the added bonus of provision for micro switches rather than needing to use separate relays.
To test the concept, I’ve built one of your designs (although I like to have the servo on its side) using 2mm card for the housing and 1.5mm card for the actuator assembly. I’ve not linked it to a point but it works really well.
In the new year I’ll build one from 2mm MDF with the actuator assembly made from Plastikard.
Thank you, and I like your assembly line production methods.
The basic concept is leads to many different variations. As you build them yourself, its easy to adapt them for any need not just points!!
👍👍👍👍👍👍
My last layout that I had til the early eighties, my father built in an absolute block system with relays so you had to set a path rather than just a signal and point setting as per a lever arrangement. He put in neutral sections energised by green signals and a correct path using cheap RS components relays and he had his mate on the S&T work out the electricals. One of the reasons Hornby/Triang lever switches are so shaped is you could with a bit of jiggery pokery mount them into the roof of a signal box thus give you an actual signal box control, sadly no bells but it had the curious and fun thing of a main train forcing a following train to halt at a red and proceed as the next but one block cleared. I seem to remember he set it up controlled using bus bars and each energised section was under control of one controller.
For years I had all the paperwork and schematics from this but lost them in the mists of time, it was insanely complex but actually worked and I remember showing off my layout to school which prompted the creation of a rail club. He used I think momentary microswitches as signal treadles and seem to remember the logic work was the first movement of the train into a section would energise that section but kill the section behind which a relay on the next section gateway would release the first relay to be energised which powered up the signal and track circuit.
Sadly as teenage years took hold and girls etc became more important than model rail, sold it for a very tidy sum prob a couple grands worth in todays money as it was beautifully done spending much time with papier mache, chicken wire, paints and model buildings etc to make it into a very detailed layout and no LED's back then all incandescant micro bulbs which was handy as BR NX panel bulbs my father got me a whole box of which ended up in coaches, engines, houses and stations. The thing produced a LOT of heat and smelt like a burnt out clutches cod piece but it was brilliance homebrew.
Hmmm Electrical burning!! 🤔😱😂👍
With a small understanding of basic electronics its not that difficult. I pretty much taught myself enough to get by, a pro would be horrified or laugh at me, but I have managed to create route setting with diodes. crude but worked
great thank you i have 8 motors to build an have been pondering how to mount the servo motors i will be using a raspberry pi zero for the actual servo controller i did buy one three d printed contraption from ebay which was to say the least crude and had to be surface mounted your idea looks magnificent
Great job and great help. Thank you very much!
Good morning Nigel and Happy New year 🎉. You remind me of a model railway Allen Millyard 😉👍
Glad I found your video on point motors as I'm about to start a new layout myself. I wonder there's a way to internally modify a small RC servo so that it doesn't need any external control just to give it a simple bi-directional sweep when the polarity of supply is reversed (the same as a tortoise)? I'll investigate this and report back. I did like your "tip of the hat" to certain work colleagues who I also know well 😂 I hope they supplied you with appropriate trainborne mince pies during the festive season along with the timings print off 🤔 😁👍
Like these! They give a nice realistic throw to the switch blades.
Typical point machines on the real thing will swing Normal to Reverse in circa 7.5 seconds, so this replicates the swing very well.
Simple switch detection via the microswitch as well. Nothing wrong with simple! As an S&T man (now retired) I would be interested to see how you tie your point detection in to your signalling, but I guess that will a future subject? Nothing wrong with relay technology - the real thing has used it for well over a hundred years.
Have you had any servo motor failures? I guess you would replace the entire motor module in the event of a fault, then bin the servo?
Well-thought out concept!
Spot-on! 👍🏻
I’ll shut up now and go take my pills…
My self taught electronics is very basic. I understand micro switches and their electronic brothers, the relay. For the average model railroader, that should be enough!
As stated in the video, the idea was copied from a Commercially available product. Having over a 100 points and signals, price became a large £actor.
Many attempts were made to create something with simple repeatable construction. Some of the early ones have a Frankenstein look to them, still work though 😃
Haven't encountered servo failure yet. And yes, replacing the whole unit would be the answer.
I did design a crude interlocking system, for my needs, a few years ago. Based on 2 pole changeover switches with hundreds of diodes.
It worked, but then I discovered the Mega Points system. Expensive, but does more than I could ever hope to achieve on my own.
Tablets?
I need to take mine too 😝
I’ve got the dingo ones but I’m going to give your design a go for my next lot
Brilliant 👍
Let me know how you get on...
@@Wallsrail will do
Great cost effective way to control points, and I'm thinking that it could be adapted for crossings, signals, etc.
Very much so, will do a video on the signal conversion soon...
How do you wire your electrofrog points?? The point motors have a connection for that wire to plug into?? I want to use servos for my points too. Look forward to your answer 😀
I've got a video about it.
Its called Modifying Peco Points
I am excited to get going on my project now that I have seen this video...thanks for the knowledge....have you made a video for the wiring end of it?
Only my basic wiring video. Got another couple being planned out.
Brilliant! Please do a follow up on wiring the microswitches.... presumably one for frog polarity? One for lights? Cheers
EDIT: Just watched modifying Peco points ...clear now, thanks!
More to come on micro switches when I start doing colour light signals....
@@Wallsrail Excellent........a homemade holder for those of us who don't 3D print (or pay the huge Shapeways prices!)
@@paulhargreaves1497 Indeed 👍
Think I state in the video somewhere that I can produce these for about 20p (not including servo!). And when you have a layout with just over a hundred, well cost is quite important 😃
Hi, absolutely brilliant piece of engineering and solves one of major point movement issues also, (Tie bar keeps moving up and down) can I ask I assume the thin tube of styrene point up on the actuator has a metal inset that goes into the hole in the center of the tie bar still?
cheers and keep up the great work.
Yes, absolutely correct! And the one thing I forgot to say/show!!
Thanks 👍👍
@@Wallsrail, What size is the metal tube and how do you keep it from moving? Also, where could it be purchased?
@@repeters1 Sorry Pete, not sure which metal tube you're referring to?? Could you time stamp it for me and I'll get back to you, thanks
@@Wallsrail Please see above comment from Buckingham Place "I assume the thin tube of styrene point up on the actuator has a metal inset that goes into the hole in the center of the tie bar still?l
@@repeters1 Ahh! Ok yes, its something I forgot to mention, Doh! The plastic tube does indeed hold the metal wire that switches the point via the tie bar.
Hi, I was wondering if you had worked out the wiring for the limit switches yet? I want to run some Dwarf signals, one on each side of the track with 2 color, red & green, LEDs to show which track was open or closed. Can it be done with 1 switch for both lights or will I need to use 2 switches, one on each side of the bracket?
Thanks, Pete
No, not yet!! Getting around to it though!
Should be able to do what you want off 1 micro switch. It is after all just a change over switch.
I'm. gearing up to do a control panel video, which will cover how to do that. Not sure when it will be though, as got a backlog building up......
Thanks NW
A bit late in the dat, but I have only just come across this video. Brilliant stuff and well worth giving a try,. Which of the Hobby King servos did you use? the HTX900 or the HTX500? Where did you get the micro switch?
Re servos, err not sure?
I use lots of Tower Pro SG90
They're equally good, cheap and easier to get hold of.
I get the micro switches off ebay. Various suppliers, normally work out at about 50p each.
go for the 27mm lever version
@@Wallsrail Thank you very much
As you know, I am not very knowledgeable about these topics, i realize that as someone else has stated that you manage to do so much with some plasticard etc. I know you are a fan of Dave Fentons products, so wonder why you don't use his laser-cut framework servo mounts? Or have I completely missed the reasons why you chose this method. If so why have I gone wrong LOL. Got to say I really do enjoy your content, cheers Paul
Its the up and down motion of the operating wire that was causing me and others some issues!
Having a linear side to side motion eliminates all
of those issues.
Dave does some excellent stuff, but gears his stuff to make you buy more of his products = brilliant planning and marketing!!
I use the micro switch on the top of mine to change the polarity of the point frog, Dave wants you to buy his electronics to do this and doesn't make provision for attachments to his laser cut mounts.
I've spoken to him about it.
I've got a follow up to this one in process
Thanks mate 👍😀👍
@@Wallsrail thought I had missed something important, thanks for letting me know .
I too had had those up and down issues, but not brave enough this time to do why you have done .
I have a surface one to deal with as well, any ideas lol 😃😃
@@Sandlingjunction Have a look at the Dingo servo mount
I love DIY :)
Good job :)
So do I, especially when it saves me £££££££££ 😀👍
I cannot see where your points actuator wire is attached, I assume it is inserted in the tube somehow?
Errors and omissions 😖
Yes, forgot to mention that!!
Wire inserted into the tube on the actuator that pokes through the base board. 👍
@@Wallsrail I have constructed some 16 of your point motors and they all work brilliantly. I have also included micro switches as your dwg suggests for indicator LEDS.
Hi again, just curious what size drill bit did you use to ream out the 1/8" tubing for the screw? I tried using shrink wrap but i would have had to keep building it up to keep the threads from tearing through.
Thanks,
Pete
2mm I think?
But any in the range 1.8mm - 2.1mm should do the job 👍
I built my first one today. I made a few mistakes but was able to jury rig / correct them with a few extra strips of styrene. Next ones should be better. 2 Questions, first, is the rod you used as a spacer 1/8" tube or larger? Second Question, why are there 3 fronts made in your diagram when you / I only use 2?
Excellent 👍
The tube is Evergreen 223 3/32 tube
But can be swapped for another size depending on what size of rod you want to operate the point?
Third piece of front is used as a larger platform that the micro switch sits on. I sometimes use scrap/off cuts for this. Entirely optional?
Thanks
NW
@@Wallsrail, I was talking about the tube / rod that you used spacing the 2 upright arms at the 2:20 minute mark.
Ahh, yes, that would be 1/8th tube. Evergreen 224.
@@Wallsrail Thank you. I thought that was it but wanted to make sure...
I also made a board similar to the Duplicate-It from Micro Tools for scoring and cutting the styrene sheet but I can't figure a way to post a picture of it in the comments here on UT.
@@repeters1 Send it via email. Should be on my page somewhere... 👍
Another Question......not sure why you use the #223 tube .........wouldn't a flat section work as well? Edit....ah, is that where the wire sits (and goes up through the baseboard to the point)?
Yes, forgot to mention the actuating wire! Doh 😖
what glue did you use? like design
Plastic weld
Plastic weld
Plastic Weld
Plastic Weld
What kind of glue did you use?
Plastic Weld liquid poly
www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Cement-Stick-Plastics-Weald/dp/B00QQNNWIW/ref=asc_df_B00QQNNWIW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309775932390&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10992527185875771023&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046213&hvtargid=pla-699618608120&psc=1
You ?!? Not adverse to dipping your hand in your pocket ?!?!? Do we have you tube evidence of this ???
😂😂😂😂😂