Basic Solid Riveting - Shop Project
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- Опубликовано: 16 июн 2024
- In today's video we discuss Basic Solid Riveting. I will undertake a basic solid riveting project to show you how to do the job. As well as explaining some of the important basic details of solid rivet installation. Whether it be rivet guns, bucking bars, solid rivets themselves, I discuss it all in this video. Check out the video for math basics of solid rivets as well as the tools associated with riveting.
Air Craft Tool Supply: www.aircraft-tool.com/
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*** 4x Rivet Gun: amzn.to/2Lg5ibe
*** Bucking Bar and Rivet Set Kit: amzn.to/2uGwsNX
*** Economy Riveter: tinyurl.com/ycahul7z
*** Rivet Cutter: amzn.to/2uE543g
*** Rivet Gauge: amzn.to/2uCcMeq
*** 1/8" Cleco Fasteners and Pliers: amzn.to/2Laqcoc
*** 3/16" Cleco Fasteners and Pliers: amzn.to/2L7lSWL
*** Cleco Combo Kit with Pliers: amzn.to/2JcwaTy
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Email: Alan@HotRodHippie.com
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The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. This is not a paid product advertisement. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out.
Disclaimer: This is not a paid advertisement. This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them.
#sheetmetal #solidrivets #riveting 
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Great job on the video, I am a aircraft mechanic by trade. There is a great place where you can pick up materials for a really great price like aircraft spruce. There are diffrent material rivits that can be used that will make things a little easier such as A rivets being softer than AD rivets. Depending on what materials you are using you can use diffrent types of rivets for stainless steel work. Another avenue you maybe interested in would be a rivet squeezer for smaller rivets, it really speeds things up. They make them in a pneumatic version or hand squeeze style. Keep up the great work love the channel!
adirtyd great info. I didn't get into materials and all cause I didn't want this video to be 20 minutes long. Ha. My boss has an old CP 36" power squeezer I want to get from him eventually. We don't have much use for it at the shop but I could see using it personally.
HotRodHippie that would be a great piece of equipment to get! The material topic could take hours to cover lol. The diffrence in materials you plan to rivet together or even the type of rivet can cause corrosion. The video is great and I totally agree with you on steering clear on that topic. Non the less great video and keep them coming!
Thank you very much. No end of videos in sight!
What’s up Alan, I came across your channel and definitely subscribed. Great info on riveting and that is what I am learning. Been a trucker and a restoration guy for many years and now am into customizing old semis. My old 57’Kenworth was a log truck then after years and years of hard work and abuse, was shoved into a corner of the yard and left to die. I found it, rescued it and now it needs,….well, Lots of love. You video got me going in the right direction. Thank you brother.
I have been watching solid rivet videos all day, this is the best one , thank you
I'm glad to hear it and thank you for watching.
Maybe because he has a lot of drawings:-))))))))))))))
You rock! I am getting into riveting aluminum sheet for creating my own motorcycle accesories and your video has helped me a lot!
Thanks thanks thanks!
I'm currently working on a dually ambulance that had fender flares riveted to the body with these. I had to take the fenders of to repair the rust behind them, and want to go back on with the same style rivets. This video helped a lot.
Thanks for the excellent intro to solid rivet setting for beginners. Can't wait to get to my first project !
Thank you. Put it to use and build someone cool 👍👍
Good information and a great demonstration. Thanks!
You did a much better job at teaching and explaining "how to" And What tools should be used than the video from an actual instructor I just saw. Great job man!
Thank you very much. I’ve been told more than once my videos have been shown in tech classes. 😂
Great job. I found the content absolutely riveting!!
Hey, great video! Most videos on bucking rivets make the assumption the viewer has some knowledge on the subject. I’m a Day 1 person, and this is great.
Excellent info, thanks. I just scored over 24 different sized bucks yesterday at a local recyclers. Didn't originally associate them with rivets......thought they were just unique application dollies...which I will also use them for. I skipped on several associated items (ID'd thru your video that I need) Going back this morning with breakfast fir the ctew!!! Thanks
awesome video!! just what i needed to understand the process!
Awesome video - thanks for posting! My son and I are making an environmentally-friendly reusable "tri-fold" (for science fairs etc.) out of plywood and hinges. We plan to solid rivet the hinges to the plywood (using washers etc.). We live in Vancouver, BC, Canada.
Great, hope the project turns out well. 👍
Awesome tutorial! I was wondering how to do this, because I want to use some rivets on an early 40’s RH drive p/u cab I’m building, to stay w the army theme. It’s an old truck that was used on the Alaska Highway construction. It’s really beat up and ripped in places, so I plan to weld the tears, but hammer-form pieces over the tears and rivet them on, to make it look like that’s the way it was repaired. Take care!
Just found yr channel. Great job explaining and demonstrating Looking forward for many more thanks
Thank you for watching and Commenting. Glad to have you around 👍
That was very good. Great ideas from this lesson.
Thank you very much
Thanks so much for producing this video. I have always wanted to learn and see how these rivets were made. Now its a matter of finding some spare cash to buy a x2 kit...
Glad to help you learn and to contribute to tool addiction. 🤣
Excellent, informative video. Thanks for posting and sharing..
I have seen solid rivets set in the opposite manner for light-duty applications such as leather working that used decorative solid brass rivets, using hand tools. Small "anvil" made to support the head of the rivet where the "anvil" was held in a bench vise and a hand held punch used to form the "back side" of the 1/8" diameter rivet into a rounded "back side" using "rounding punch" made for that purpose. The force on the rivet used to form the "backside" was from 6 or 8 oz hammer to strike the punch.
Back in the 1970's my grandfather used the same hand-held tools to create fishing lures out of thin gauge brass stock, where the rivet served to add weight to the lure; dab of paint to the head and back-side to catch the attention of the fish. The whole family thought he was crazy, but he had repeat customer's at the lakes where he fished every year for 20 years; plus it gave him something to do the other 8 months of the year.
Mr. Ed some of the upholsterers that I know have small foot operated riveters for just that kind of purpose too.
Excellent video, well done.
Thank you very much
This video was a lot of help. Redoing my truck bed. Having to replace a couple of the large panels attached with rivets like these. I am not looking for perfection. None of the factory rivets are perfect either. Nice how-to video on the process.
great video. thanks for the info.
Another great vid. Thanks man
Cody3232 Cody3232 thank you
The USA needs to embrace metric. SO much simpler
Royale with cheese
@@yamahaelsker Don’t get me wrong. I still use imperial at times, MPH, MPG, Yards to next exit, Pint, Half pint.
But when it comes to accuracy, ease of use and communication with people across the globe, Metric wins handsdown.
Its consistently based on decimal numbers, works well with percentages, has one sort of unit for weight, has one system of volume, it handles mechanical and electrical quantities, the units are the same internationally, simple calculations such as floor area, energy consumption and volumes are also easy.
Agree! Go with the global science system
Aircraft mechanic here, specialized in sheetmetal work: Great Video!!! I have to say, from what I’ve seen, we’re a bit less technical than you get here, there’s alot more eyeballing and less doing the math lol. At least once you’ve done it for a while. It’s more “get that bird out the door” and “that looks about right” in a hangar. And I see plenty of the same even with factory riveting, Cessna and Piper included.
Also, good tip, put a piece of masking tape over the face of the gun, between rivet and driver. It’ll make the rivet face come out cleaner, and reduce the risk of “half-moons”, when the gun face creeps sideways to base material while you’re shooting. One or two layers tape is good, depending how soft the base material.
Thank you very much. I usually like to present the "Right way" of doing things and let people figure out how it works for them from there. You probably have experience under your belt to know how to eyeball it, rest of us are probably better sticking to the "rules" for a bit, ha.
@@HotRodHippie For sure, learn it the proper way, then once you’ve got that locked down, thennn you can think about playing with it lol.
Excellent video…I learned a lot. Great formula’s. I’m doing a 64 LANDY Thanks Steve o Reno
Thanks for all the math stuff on how to know which size rivet to use for a particular project. As well as the basic dif between 4x, 3x, 2x. Seems every vid I’ve watched lately (probably 10?) gives me that much more info that the others didn’t so I am grateful for what you shared. Something tells me perhaps another reason you made the vid other than to share your knowledge and perhaps become the next RUclips sensation is to show off the latest snazzy ink you had laid down. Or piercing maybe ... or do I see scarification too? Hmpf ... possible PDX connection ... maybe?
Anyway, cool stuff, thx!
Nope I made this so I can reference it whenever I need to do rivets. Because I always forget the math necessary so now I can look up my own video to find the formula.
A tip you might find useful, when you have plenty of clearance for your bucking bar (like you do on the rivets in the video) try holding the bucking bar the long way, and and putting one of the surfaces on the end of the bar on the rivet. That way you have more of the weight of the bar behind the rivet and it bucks it a little more solidly. Not that what you're doing is wrong, obviously there are times when lack of clearance will require you to buck it the way you did, and it's certainly possible to get a good buck that way.
This was pretty interesting. *Rivet King* _Haha good bucking._
You make it look easy. I’ve been trying to do some 1/4 aluminum rivets and they are kicking my butt
1/4" rivets will need a strong riveter, even aluminum rivets. Something like this #4 I have. What are you using to drive them??
HotRodHippie an ingersol air chisel 🤫 I can’t justify a high dollar speciality tool. I just need to figure out how to set 12 rivets
Do they need to be 1/4" rivets? I fully get not wanting to drop the $$$ on a specific riveter. I usually do 1/8" or 3/16" at the most when using a normal style riveter. Are you using 1100 Soft rivets or some 2 series hard ones? If you are using the 2117 rivets that isn't going to help matters. The softer 1100 rivets would help. You MAY be able to anneal the rivets by heating rhem with a torch to around 600-700F and allowing them to come back to room temperature afterward. That should soften them and make them more usable. However it will soften them so their structural strength will not be the same.
Is this a structure that is going to depend on the strength of those rivets?
HotRodHippie unfortunately I just received some new rivets and they are the 2117. They will be for riveting knee braces back in a 16’ aluminum boat with a 40hp motor. Not a tremendous amount of stress. I could bolt it but the rivets keep the original look. And I love trying to learn something new. I’ll try heating the rivets to soften some
@@eljeffe5938 Chris 2117 rivets are called icebox rivets. Put them in the freezer and wait 24 hours then install them. They will age harden after the get to room temp.
Prepare to win by Carroll smith has some sound advice and reference material for rivets, nuts, and other ways of fastening stuff for automotive purposes.
Excellent introduction to basic riveting. Kung Fu included, impressed.
Thank you
This video is going to help keep my 1949 packard on the road. I'm restoring a broken door handle mechanism.
Wow very good job. Thank you... Question have you ever used rivets like on truck frames when relocating mounts instead of using bolts.
Bradley Thompson no, I do not have access to big enough riveters to do that. Also I generally find bolting mounts like that is a little stronger in the end. A lot of folks have taken say like K5 blazer frames and replaced al the rivets with bolts and found the frame tightened up. Rivets loosen up a little bit over time in those applications I guess. That said, for the proper look I wish I did have the option to rivet them some times.
Thank you
What kind of rivet is used that produced circular motion to the material you rivet?
Your rivets are missing 😆
Thanks for the vid. most detailed. 👍
thanks, I am ordering 4x gun, but nowhere on the airspruce website can i find a cupped setting tool, can you help, please
I'm in the aviation trade and really like the video I'd recommend looking at a book called ac43.14-2B it has a whole chapter on riveting I know your just doing it for astitics but things like edge distance and spacing well be helpful
Thank you. I really need to dive deeper into Aviation Mechanics. I've got some old Navy books/pamphlets on the topic that I really need to make time for dissecting. I'll add that to the list.
Keep skipping the deburring for the table
Get a heavier bucking bar brother helps so much more
Does one tool install both domed as well as pop rivets or do I need to buy two separate guns?
Two separate tools. They use entirely different methods and have zero cross over.
Does the bucking bar rattle your hand?
How hard do you have to push the bar into the rivet?
It really doesn't rattle your hand as kucha s you'd think. That said I'm used to such work on a regular basis so I may be desensitized to it. It really doesn't require much pressure application. It is most important you keep it straight so the tail of the river doesn't angle. Other than that light pressure pushing it against the tail is all that's required. If you push to hard you risk pushing the rivet up out of the hold which is an issue.
I'm curious why you have the bucking bar on the long side and not the head when hitting it with the air hammer?
That is how it is done. The bucking bar is intended to flatten the tail of the rivet to the uniform shape it needs to provide a strong and proper fastening effect. It seems mildly counter-intuitive to drive on the side that is remaining flat against the metal you are securing, but it is how the job is performed.
If you drove the tail side and bucked the head side, you'd have to pay very close attention to both sides at the same time (effectively requiring two people) as to not damage the rivet or surrounding material. At least in my mind it would require that.
I don't know the detailed science of why it is done this way, but it is how the task is achieved. Look up photos of anyone riveting an aircraft and you will find the same.
I've got an assembly position interview tomorrow and I'm learning riveting from abraham lincoln the night before
HAY what i do. Useing solid brass .domehead.decration only on a truck. Thin aluminum. They gun can rip are bend my aluminum.i got a the right gun. Keep air dwn. The very center of the RIVET HEAD gets a little flat spot. I say my shank is to long. So every peice gets bead rolled. Then a rivet. Will the cutter DO BRASS RIVET. I need HELP ! The brass is 100 times STRONGER than my thin aluminum! Any knowledge is welcome ! !
I know its an old video, but I want to restore and old school tool box that uses solid rivets. What would you advise? Just replace with standard rivets and washers or try and source a small rivet gun,rivets, and etc?
I have an old tool box I've been meaning to restore for a while. Do you think you'd watch a few videos about it?
If you are ok with the look of pop rivets instead of regular rivets, that will be easier. Personally it wouldn't be my choice.
Replacing the rivets with solid rivets is the way I intend to go. They don't need to be large so a small air hammer should be able to get used as a riveter. Honestly whatever affordable one you can find locally or on Amazon should handle a few small aluminum rivets. That along with a rivet setter and a bucking bar (aka solid chunk of whatever metal) will get the job done.
@@HotRodHippie it has the scissor drawer style organizers. I would prefer solid rivets. It's just very limited space to even get anything in there
@@HotRodHippie but also yes I would definitely watch videos on that
what is the minimum distance between the rivets to avoid buckling?
Is the dude wearing a Testament shirt? 🤘
⚙️🔩🔧⚒️ Very nice project 🔧 ! Great video 🎥 !! _ Congratulations! 👍 🇧🇷
Thank you very much. It's appreciated. 👍
Question. What cause the bucktail to slant sideways with everything proper as far as the bucktail length and dia?
Most often it is the result of the Bucking Bar being angled. If the bar is not perpendicular to the rivet (even slightly) it will do that. It is difficult to maintain the proper angle in many real world applications, that is why so many Bucking Bars have such odd shapes. To get behind cross members, around corners, etc etc.
It is a constant struggle to maintain the proper angles when hammering rivets.
@@HotRodHippie gotcha gotcha bruh, ill give it a try. I thank You so much for the info now i can share it with my partner we both was wondering wth.... 😂😁👍
What diameter is the rivet head on say a 3/16th rivet - im on the AIRCRAFT SUPPLY page now through your link,looking at the ATS ECONOMY RIVET GUN and the accessory RIVET SET MIX which has 5 pieces and sizes - i assume those are rivet thickness sizes and not head size? correct? - i want to know head sizes primarily for aesthetics on my project - Thanks
All of the 3/16" Rivets I have on hand have .39" heads on them. So just over 3/8". McMaster-Carr lists the Head diameter on the rivets they sell. Their 1/8" Rivets have .26" Heads and their 1/4" Rivets have a .52" Head. That is where I ordered from most recently when I ordered some other hardware as well.
@@HotRodHippie great info - thanks for the fast reply - ill check out that site
How big is your compressor, hp?
I need to set literally 4 rivets. Trying to decide whether to buy a real cheap air hammer or just use a hammer.
can you use a hammer drill (set to hammer only) for this in lieu of a pneumatic rivet gun?
never seen this so going to say no but you can use a hammer and a snap fits the rivet head
Everyone involved in engineering work should get a copy of 'The Machinaries Handbook'. (It's expensive though). 'The Engineers Bible'.
I deffinilty want to try solid rivets on my truck. My shop doesn't have any of the correct tools though.
DieselPunk Cummins the bare minimum you need is a very basic rivet gun, bucking bar, and rivet setter to match the rivets you are working with. Those things can be found pretty affordably. Clecos are a big help though.
HotRodHippie should I get an eBay kit? I'd very rarely ever use it.
I haven't seen the Ebay kit you are referring to. In the past I used a very cheap air hammer to do solid riveting. Rivet setters use the standard .401" shank and Bucking bars are pretty affordable. They are not nearly as controllable and adjustable as a real rivet gun but can do the job. May be a good way to practice. Depending on the project size I believe we are pretty close to each other and I have all the tools. I'm in Easthampton.
I'm using 3/16 inch brazier rivets to fasten 3/8 inch plywood to aluminum sheets on my fishing boat. How do I determine the grip?
Te grip is the thickness of material being riveted. So the wood thickness plus the metal you are attaching it to. Use the formula I gave in this video to determine rivet length.
Just be careful to hammer lightly as to not embed into your wood. I'm assuming the wood is treated and you won't want to break the surface layer.
Formula is:
1.5 X Rivet Diameter (3/16, aka .1875) + Grip (your material thickness.
Thank you. That is very helpful. I misunderstood what grip meant.
Are those 1/8" you're setting? Not trying to say your doing it wrong, just the buck tail looks a little too flat. For aviation standards though, thats why I'm not saying you're doing it wrong.
They are 3/16". I just measured a few of them. They are right around .330" across and .77" tall. So definitely flattened out a bit too much. Probably over hammered them or should have dialed down my regulator a bit more.
Good spotting. 👍
Can someone comment on best way to do round rivets on small electronic components. Such as installing tube sockets to my amplifier.
I want the look of round rivets so I don't want to use small screws or standard big box rivets. I want to replicate how the rivets look on the vintantage part I have.
My first thought would be “Press Fit Rivets” which are two piece rivers where you press a stud into the backside of the river to retain it all. Less chance of damage than transitional solid rivers that way. There are also “Chicago Screw” which are a stud that looks like a rivet on one side, and a screw that goes into the backside and squeezes the two together. Similar idea to the Press Fit Rivers but serviceable.
You might get the look you're looking for with solid aircraft rivets. The smallest solid rivet in common use is a -3, which is 3/32" in diameter. for an application like yours it would be a lot better to set them with a hand rivet squeezer, if you have room to use a hand squeezer. That would be preferable to using a rivet hammer on your amp, I'd think. Also, the rivets come in soft (annealed)for non structural applications and hard for structural applications. the soft rivets would be a lot easier to set, and would be more that strong enough for your purposes.
8:23 No worries.
Countersunk = Flush
Universal Head = Domed
If you want to get real fancy learn about edge distance.
somewhere over the rainbow matey
how do you do those big holes in the table ?
tweak e I used Blair Holcutters, (fancy hole saws) to cut out the holes, then use my dimple dies in a press to create the detail. I'll be doing a video about it sometime.
You're over driving those rivets. The height of the shop head (the upset head or buck tail ) should be a minimum of 1/2 the diameter of the rivet, or 3/32 high for a 3/16 dia. rivet. Like you said, you're not building aircraft structure, so it's not critical, but not driving them quite that flat will make them look more authentic. .
Look at me... I'm learning stuff
Look at you go. You can do it!
Just a heads up: I can't be the only one that got motion sickness watching your arms flail around. Good precises info though.
I m purchase this item
How do you remove a solid rivet?
Either drill them out or grind them off. I usually use a combination of the two really.
Personally on chassis rivet removal, I grind the smaller head if it is accessible, then drive them out with an air hammer.
For a project like this? Drilling is the better way to prevent hitting the base metal.
Price
Love the facial hair
Did he really just say "REACH AROUND"? Yep.
a real rivet kit is a bit of cut bar and a hammer
Would it not be better to install the legs of your table under the table top ? Avoiding such knife sharp edges on each corner. Just a thougt.
In many cases sure, but the idea here was a more industrial look. The exposed rivets and overlapping panels all go toward that look. Also of the legs were inside, there would still be open corner joints. Needing to be welded to smooth them off. This was mostly about the look. It was for a computer to sit on top of and that's it. So not like an end table or coffee table where edges would matter more.
looks like this tools comes handy for making holes in your ears, too..
Are you still acting with this channel? I have a life support mechanical device for rope attachment on using grade 8 bolts but I think they're just taking up too much space on this project I like the rivets is there a process for life support units?
I'm not familiar with what you mean by "Life support unit". Are you referring to some rigging / recovery equipment?
Replacing Grade 8 hardware with Solid Rivets is doable but doing so with hand air hammer methods is asking a lot. You'd likely have to heat up the rivets and that affects the metallurgy in a way that I wouldn't recommend for something critically important. If I was to do it I'd be trying to use a large rivet squeezer or rivet press. Neither of which I have ready access to currently.
I post a video a week for almost three years now, quite active. 👍
@@HotRodHippie hey buddy! Life support meaning it's a mechanical device for rope attachment for work placement for arborists window washers every height related work scenario and now immediate exit from fire-related situations in high story buildings
@@Joesdifferent in that case I absolutely wouldnt mess with it without an engineer signing off on rivet usage. You have to take Working Load Limits into account with rigging use. Shear Strength, Tensile Strength, Corrosion factors, etc would all be concerns in my mind. I cannot recommend riveting in that scenario without a lot of design research.
@@HotRodHippie totally true very good response thank you sir and that is why I have always gone in the beginning with stainless steel grade 8 bolts nuts and washers for the simple fact that people can do change outs and deliver exact tension in the body and upper linkage
@@HotRodHippie after that I'm not doing rivets it defeats the whole adjustment purpose that I originated from but I was curious to know if someone would actually help me and therefore you are definitely one good brother thank you brother very very very much and if you ever have any questions you could always ask me I'm quite The Machinist tree climber Carpenter multi mechanic troubleshooting skilled human being LOL God bless bro
How many times did you say "rivet" 🤣
Brianna Ecklin 1.2 million. It must have been riveting to watch.
I wish there was no ‘cool music’ in the background as it is difficult to judge amount of effort and time bucking. Please refrain next time if you wish to teach . Ty
That's not at all true about solid rivet guns being a thing that's different from air hammers. They're the same thing. Back in the day the Chicago Pneumatic "zip guns" were the go to for high volume riveting (not to be confused with the cheap knock-off Central Pneumatic/Chicago Electric from a certain bargain tool store). The faster and harder your hammer hits, the bigger the rivet it can take on the faster you set that rivet. If you know how to use your bucking bar right, it doesn't really matter how thin the material is, but if you really do need less power for some reason, learn how to use the trigger if you've got a good tool with an old style "teaser trigger" or turn your pressure down.
You 100% do not need to buy some special air hammer for riveting. They're the same exact thing. There's no difference. None at all.
Dedicated Rivet Guns (quality ones anyway) have finer Trigger Control for easier finesse on the Rivet (not over driving them). As well as coming with Regulators attached for another level of control. Also Rivet Guns are rated for the sizes of rivets they can handle well. General Air Hammers are just going to be a trial and error trying to figure it out on your own. I've had basic Air Hammers struggle to drive bigger RIvets before.
They use the exact same technology to achieve the same result, but there ARE differences. I've used both for many years and personally found my ATI 4x Rivet Gun is a better option than my Matco, IR, CP, and Eastwood Air Hammers. From air hammer to air hammer the Blowers Per Minute & driving force will vary wildly. Rivet Guns are made to be a more specific application versus the "One size fits some" tool that Air Hammers are.
I didn't say you NEED a Rivet Gun. I should have clarified more that an Air Hammer is fine enough for the job, but that isn't the same thing as saying you can't use one.
A good cheap alternative .401 would be the sunex hammer, it has a pretty good trigger. Not sure where it lands on the rivet scale, maybe 4x.
Very informative I enjoyed the video very well done.
The tattoo look isn't working tho'. The one on the neck looks like a male part. Why would anyone tattoo their neck?
Stop saying ‘go ahead and’ . . . it’s not required
I hear you and I will try to cut down on it. Due to my very limited time table for video production I cannot currently fully script every video before filming, so much of it is stream of consciousness while filming. As such phrases get reused without me being aware of it until the video is completed. Sometimes it drives me nuts, so I get why it can bug folks.
That said, I watched back the video and I only say "Go ahead" 7 times in an 11 and a half minute video. I don't think that is too excessive, but if you felt the need to comment at least you did, so I hear it.
Oh my gosh. Too wordy and drawn out. How much time do you think we have? I can’t hang. 12 minutes?!!!
Even the palms of his hands are tattooed. Too distracting to pay attention to what he's saying. I'm mystified as to why some people do that to their bodies.
I'm mystified as to why people feel the need to express their distaste for another person's choices about their body. If you can't take information being taught to you unless it's by a straight laced button down teacher, you are severely limiting your learning potential in this world.
I am sorry you feel my information isn't worth learning from because of my personal choice with my own body.
@@HotRodHippie I apologize. I'm 66, and when I was your age, the only people I saw with tattoos were bikers or carnival workers. I still can't wrap my head around why people do it now, and also pierce holes all over their bodies. Anyway, I'll view the entire video, and thanks for the info.
@@JCO2002 Apology accepted. Sorry if I was a bit harsh in my initial response. I get it is certainly a generational difference. I will someday do a video discussing my tattoos but for now I prefer to just focus on my work as if they aren't there. Thank you for taking a chance on watching my stuff anyway. Good day.
@@HotRodHippie Ok, thanks. Sorry again.
Because they are plain idiots!!!!!!!!
First 3 minutes of blabbering deserved a schematic representation. As is, vomitting number at a speed of a rap battle, it’s almost useless.
Excellent information. I had to stop watching because I found the hand gestures way too distracting
Thnx fur sharing
I came here looking for knowledge and what are you building.... your a mechanic but you use the video to build a f****** laptop table later
If I had said it was bracing around a fuel cell in a custom street rod, would you have known any different? Metal is metal. The information and techniques I explained here are exactly the same as when I rivet parts on a car.
Other videos where you might want to look for knowledge could be on grammar and diplomacy....just sayin'...
Half way through I turned you off.
Your hands should never do more movement than you lips. It is so distracting I had to stop watching and move on to other videos.
might be good content but i cant watch. those holes in your ears draw my attention from anything else. wont ever try to watch again. smdh
any reason you have to have all the copper magnets in the way so one can barely see what you are doing after the ear protection stuff?
They are Cleco Fasteners. They are the only thing holding the project together until it get's riveted. Sorry but there will always be some in use on a project like this so some will always be obstructing various angles. That's why I showed multiple rivets being done, so fewer and fewer Clecos were in place.
Learn more here: ruclips.net/video/p-UuKVRHrco/видео.html