There's a ton of pilot resources on YT but not so much A&P focused content. Thanks for doing what you do. Love the content. Have forwarded it onto management, who makes training videos for our apprentices at the shop I work. Top notch quality.
Dude I have so much to learn I almost didn’t understand a word you were saying it was like a Martian speaking Martian explaining how his ufo travels thru space 😂
Pop rivets have their place in aviation. It's just not in structure that being said, a cherrymax is a structural "blind" rivit they just cost more than bullets.
If you know what you're doing, you can use a 3x to shoot #5 rivets even short #6, I use my 4x for everything including #6s, having a tungsten bucking bar help too.
@@K12-n5lnot necessarily true! The guy on the gun has to know how to lead in, and listen for a change in the sound to know when to stop so as to not over shoot it
Unfortunately you have to drill it back out and try again, I'll probably make that a second video because I have at least 6 tips on drilling them back out.
I always wondered how you rivet something. Now I know. Correcting mistakes and actually riveting two pieces of aluminum together would make a very interesting part 2. 10:46
@@brycebuildsit my exam was yesterday. He had tape, and he infact told me I had a great idea. I also passed thanks for the video and the helpful refresher
I've noticed kitbuilders seem to get whatever air tools they have at harbor freight. When I worked on cars everyone had favorite impact gun or air hammer, I had an amazing Cornwell 250mm gun. Is there any brand of rivet gun that is "better" than another?
In my opinion, yes. I know the name is wired, but The Yard Store sells really high-quality aircraft sheet metal tools. Also, aircraft tools supply sells a pretty good catalog, some cheap options, and some more expensive. I also like Seaux Air Tools. I will add right here on the end, though. I don't think there is anything wrong with buying from Harbor Freight. Especially if it's something you will only use a few times. If it's something you are using every day like I do, then I always recommend quality.
You have much better control over the pressure on the shop head holding the bucking bar in one hand and the rivit set in the other. If you put it against a table or wall you would over shoot it immediately. Also when riveting to a aircraft there would be no way to place every shop head against a wall or table so you would have to do it this way
The "bucking bar push back" tip (to level the bar to the work) is one this experienced builder did not know. THanks!
A retired structure mechanic from D Howard taught me that one.
There's a ton of pilot resources on YT but not so much A&P focused content. Thanks for doing what you do. Love the content. Have forwarded it onto management, who makes training videos for our apprentices at the shop I work. Top notch quality.
I really appreciate the advice and your channel. I am a new tech and there is a very limited amount of information out there for aviation mechanics.
Airframe O&P tomorrow, this is helpful. Thanks!
Good luck! Let us know how it goes
Man I learned more today than I have in class. Thank you so much!
Dude I have so much to learn I almost didn’t understand a word you were saying it was like a Martian speaking Martian explaining how his ufo travels thru space 😂
I'm sorry, once you take a sheet metal class it will make much more sense. Aircraft is its own language at times.
@@brycebuildsit oh yeah I haven’t even finished gen 101 yet
great video. definitely going to use the countersunk head as a gauge next time i rivet. thanks for the tip
Thank you for the advice great tips.
No idea why this is recommended to me but great vid
I just found your channel. You have great info to share, thank you so much! I will be testing in about 5 months.
Years ago I used my dad's Pop Rivet Tool. Somehow this looks more professional! Riveting!
Pop rivets have their place in aviation. It's just not in structure that being said, a cherrymax is a structural "blind" rivit they just cost more than bullets.
@@brycebuildsitand the tool needed to set cherrymax isn't cheap either...
Ture, I've also used a regular puller for them, but they don't last very long before the cherrymax stems break the puller.
If you know what you're doing, you can use a 3x to shoot #5 rivets even short #6, I use my 4x for everything including #6s, having a tungsten bucking bar help too.
All you’re doing is pulling a trigger man don’t overcompensate.
@@K12-n5lnot necessarily true! The guy on the gun has to know how to lead in, and listen for a change in the sound to know when to stop so as to not over shoot it
Great video. How do you correct a rivet that wasn’t shot properly? The overshot or crooked ones?
Unfortunately you have to drill it back out and try again, I'll probably make that a second video because I have at least 6 tips on drilling them back out.
I always wondered how you rivet something. Now I know. Correcting mistakes and actually riveting two pieces of aluminum together would make a very interesting part 2. 10:46
Cad plated rivets?
Thanks man I'm gonna ask can I use some tape, and adjust the pressure on my practicals
If the DME has tape, then yes tell him your instructor showed you the tape trick and I'm sure he'll be OK with it
@@brycebuildsit my exam was yesterday. He had tape, and he infact told me I had a great idea.
I also passed thanks for the video and the helpful refresher
@Golden910 congratulations 🎊
Did you take both or just the A
I've noticed kitbuilders seem to get whatever air tools they have at harbor freight. When I worked on cars everyone had favorite impact gun or air hammer, I had an amazing Cornwell 250mm gun. Is there any brand of rivet gun that is "better" than another?
In my opinion, yes. I know the name is wired, but The Yard Store sells really high-quality aircraft sheet metal tools. Also, aircraft tools supply sells a pretty good catalog, some cheap options, and some more expensive. I also like Seaux Air Tools. I will add right here on the end, though. I don't think there is anything wrong with buying from Harbor Freight. Especially if it's something you will only use a few times. If it's something you are using every day like I do, then I always recommend quality.
why not firing the gun with the rivet being supported against the table? or a wall? why is manual pressure applied this way?
You have much better control over the pressure on the shop head holding the bucking bar in one hand and the rivit set in the other. If you put it against a table or wall you would over shoot it immediately.
Also when riveting to a aircraft there would be no way to place every shop head against a wall or table so you would have to do it this way
So it takes 2 people to install those rivets
Sometimes, I've done plenty by myself when I can get to booth sides.
Imagine how simple it would be if it was in metric .... 😄
No kidding.
I get a lot of the measurement methods and sizing is legacy stuff, but would it kill manufacturers to put a metric size on the box?