I have to agree about Slot Car Corner. I built a wood track with their components years ago (10 years maybe?) and they were outstanding. I just checked and was pleased to see that they're still in business. If you're tempted, you can't do better than to source your components from them.
I worked at a track in the early 1980's... two medium sized 24th scale tracks... We had a braid IRON that looked like a monokote iron with a stationary metal slot guide on the underside of the pointed...all one piece. We used a hot glue gun and the iron...wish we had the roller too because the only time a significant strip of braid came unglued I had to repair it single handed... The bad part...you need two hands to hold the braid down with a screw driver behind the iron while it cooled...I resorted to running a bead the entire 8ft length and then tacking the braid every six inches with the iron...followed by the soldering at the beginning of the braid and then moving in the direction of the track and using a womp womp to hold it in place for the few seconds it took the glue to cool down...doesn't take long with copper in the mix. The good part...minor repairs are a snap...usually there is still enough glue to just iron the braid back down...I used to heat the iron behind the counter and put a little hot glue in the side groove (sorry I don't know the proper term) and then go back and get the iron and press it in place...usually a few times before the iron hit a sweet spot where it was just the right temp to soften the glue without being so hot that the braid could come up after lifting the iron. Never had to repair the same spot twice...in the two years I worked there. The tape looks like a good idea...and in a repair situation I would try lifting the braid just enough to get the old tape out of the way...and you know the rest.
TurboKev: Thanks for the video. My son and I are planning a slot car track for the attic this winter. I've been trying to decide between braid and tape. This put me over the top. We wanted braid but I wasn't sure I could do it.
You can certainly do it! There are some great tutorials on the Slot Car Corner website, and some really good information on a forum called Home Racing World. I started with a taped track, and once I switched to braid I swore I would never go back. Tape can work well, but isn't as forgiving to temperature swings and it can wear out faster than braid.. Go braid the first time and you won't regret it~
Now wiring would be a big help too !! I am buying a wood routed track but it needs to be finished with braid and wiring. I have NO clue how to wire it.
Very old video, but I’d love to see how you did the modular removable piece to convert from an oval to a roval. Also, the building you added at the start/finish was beautiful, if it’s a kit, I’d love to know what it was. Thanks!
Wow... if you are still around, you paint the tracks with a different color for a cool finish but is there a danger of peeling when the paint ages and the wood soaks with oil?
Nice work. Thanks for sharing. Q:What size/depth router bit for the slot?what size and depth router bit for the braid's recess? what size MDF did you use? 3/4-1"? what kind of surface paint did you apply? How about the colored lines? thanks
To see the finished track (or at least where its at righ tnow) go to the link below: www.homeracingworld.us/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7088&sid=27d4c8ae5e11f463d7d5f3faeb53c134 Enjoy~
Just like pin striping. What an art form. Looks like a nice layout.
I have to agree about Slot Car Corner. I built a wood track with their components years ago (10 years maybe?) and they were outstanding. I just checked and was pleased to see that they're still in business. If you're tempted, you can't do better than to source your components from them.
I worked at a track in the early 1980's... two medium sized 24th scale tracks...
We had a braid IRON that looked like a monokote iron with a stationary metal slot guide on the underside of the pointed...all one piece.
We used a hot glue gun and the iron...wish we had the roller too because the only time a significant strip of braid came unglued I had to repair it single handed...
The bad part...you need two hands to hold the braid down with a screw driver behind the iron while it cooled...I resorted to running a bead the entire 8ft length and then tacking the braid every six inches with the iron...followed by the soldering at the beginning of the braid and then moving in the direction of the track and using a womp womp to hold it in place for the few seconds it took the glue to cool down...doesn't take long with copper in the mix.
The good part...minor repairs are a snap...usually there is still enough glue to just iron the braid back down...I used to heat the iron behind the counter and put a little hot glue in the side groove (sorry I don't know the proper term) and then go back and get the iron and press it in place...usually a few times before the iron hit a sweet spot where it was just the right temp to soften the glue without being so hot that the braid could come up after lifting the iron.
Never had to repair the same spot twice...in the two years I worked there.
The tape looks like a good idea...and in a repair situation I would try lifting the braid just enough to get the old tape out of the way...and you know the rest.
Thanks mate!.... Your video has helped me a great deal. Enjoy!.
TurboKev: Thanks for the video. My son and I are planning a slot car track for the attic this winter. I've been trying to decide between braid and tape. This put me over the top. We wanted braid but I wasn't sure I could do it.
You can certainly do it! There are some great tutorials on the Slot Car Corner website, and some really good information on a forum called Home Racing World.
I started with a taped track, and once I switched to braid I swore I would never go back. Tape can work well, but isn't as forgiving to temperature swings and it can wear out faster than braid.. Go braid the first time and you won't regret it~
Excellent!
This was exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you for sharing.
Now wiring would be a big help too !! I am buying a wood routed track but it needs to be finished with braid and wiring. I have NO clue how to wire it.
Very old video, but I’d love to see how you did the modular removable piece to convert from an oval to a roval. Also, the building you added at the start/finish was beautiful, if it’s a kit, I’d love to know what it was. Thanks!
that woven braid is also better then copperfoil tape for laying it around curves right ?
Amazing job!!!! Nd doy you know how to make a digital slot track?
Wow! Looks great!
Thank you for doing the video of putting the braid on your track !! I do much better with visuals. Big help
Wow... if you are still around, you paint the tracks with a different color for a cool finish but is there a danger of peeling when the paint ages and the wood soaks with oil?
I see some do braid, some do copper tape? Reasons for each?
Hello, Just so I can get a handle on size, how big was/is this track? I'll be starting one soon :-) Thanks.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing. Q:What size/depth router bit for the slot?what size and depth router bit for the braid's recess? what size MDF did you use? 3/4-1"? what kind of surface paint did you apply? How about the colored lines? thanks
How big is your trak and wot power uniti do you ues ples
And I like your trak
WHAT TYPE OF ROUTER BIT DID YOU USE ?
how do you clean the braid
track rubber that will clean the track cheap I buy them for £1 second-hand
Where I find this materials?
www.slotcarcorner.com/
nice job¡¡
To see the finished track (or at least where its at righ tnow) go to the link below:
www.homeracingworld.us/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7088&sid=27d4c8ae5e11f463d7d5f3faeb53c134
Enjoy~
thank you soo much im a auteur slot car builder and im planing my own track. this is the most helpful video i have found thank you very much
get on with it ffs
total waste of time and money, You can be alone even longer in your basement.
Nic Parker
I saw your comment and have to ask:
What's your problem?
@@filmtajm35 He cant find anyone to play with him