I worked with Dave in a repair shop in Nashvegas and you will not find a better fret job anywhere. He sets the bar for me when I’m doing fretwork. Paste wax and the thin CA is some straight method. Best technique hands down.
This made me a bit confident to start doing my frets on my guitar. All I have to do now is to get the right equipment and practice on some beaters to get some experience
Word of warning...if you are doing this on a set neck or neck through guitar, either do not do the steel wool bit at the end, or mask off your pickups first, because you will get tiny steel fillings all over your pickup magnets and potentially down inside the pickups, which will be impossible to remove
8:10 i have been doing frets for 20+ years.. and this is something that i just learned from this guy.. that is why my fret dressing was 'defective'.. i 'm happy to have found your video ... thanks
I know you've been working on guitars 20+ years just based on the fact you have the exact same Stu-Mac tools I bought in 2005. Those new black straightedges look sexy as hell, but the old silver one has been one of the most used tools I've ever owned. I just grabbed one of the shorter under string beams. Just using the longest one I kept taking too much off. With a short one I can hit the highest frets first and then level the rest with the big one to them. Otherwise I'd still have marker on some frets and I'd level the other frets way too much just to get the high ones down.
Crazy, that may have been the first time I have heard someone discuss fallout at the heal and how to deal with it when leveling frets. Would have never known and would have just leveled everything as is.
Very detailed and professional approach. However, we find that when looking for high frets by putting a straight edge across three at a time, it’s not uncommon that only part of a fret is high. We have a brass piece with a cut-out. Placing it on the high section of a fret and tapping it with a small mallet usually reseats the fret. Our preference is to do that before we resort to filing down the offending fret.
Thanks for explaining fret bar tool. I got one in a kit of tools to set up my Les Paul copy Firefly fflp Classic. I found this guitar has a 14 inch radius. I bought it second hand and found it a bit hard to play after changing from overwrap on the stop to through the stop. I do recommend the notched level for testing truss rod, as it is a way to know exactly what relief you prefer and of course action height. Great video!
This is a good video, packed with useful information. I've done many levelling jobs, and agree with Dave's methods. I refretted my Telecaster last year, and foolishly didn't pay sufficient attention to seating the frets. Luckily, I realised this just as I was starting to level them, so I got some CA glue in there, locking them solid. That did a great job, and the guitar plays really well now.
"A lot of overseas makers"... Really? I'm sorry, but I've had 2 Gibsons - "proudly made in the USA yeehaw!!!" - over the years, and they were absolutely terrible, including the frets. Especially considering the prices they went for. Couldn't fix the issues, and I did try. Both were sold cheap, because we, in Europe, don't trust Gibson anymore to deliver up to its (largely self proclaimed) reputation. So, you're very welcome to keep American overpriced stuff - I'm only *ever* playing Asian made instruments, because they play and sound great - mainly 90s and current Epiphone models (Korean and Indonesia) and mostly my early 80s Aria Pro-II (Japanese). Unbeatable 🤘😎🤘
Did I just miss it, or was there no mention of what grit sandpaper should be used for the initial leveling? Not to mention the differences in working with nickel vs stainless frets? A lot of good information, but just enough information for a stone cold beginner to completely ruin their guitar 😬 Details matter, especially with fretwork.
4 months late, but he did mention the grit of sandpaper. He said he uses “400, next 600(or 800), and then 1000. Wouldn’t go lower than 400 cause it’ll be too aggressive against the frets.” He didn’t really touch on much of the nickel v stainless steel frets though
Where’s the notched straight edge to straighten the neck? No taping up the fretboard? Where’s the radius block in his method after the fret level with the bar? WHAT A WANKER!
No one has ever mentioned glueing the frets down. Very interesting. I’m practicing in a $20 Kirk Hammett practice guitar I got before moving onto my MIM strat.
Great video. Tools have developed a lot in recent years - I never knew. It's been a long while since Ive dressed frets. I didnt know that many of the overseas Fenders didnt have their frets glued in. The truss rod adjustment always concerns me as its down to experience and feel. Less is more in my world. Next time my System 1 strat needs strings, Ill do the frets too. ✌️👍💜😊
I saw a YT video the other week where the guy had a bit for his drill press that would crown and bevel fret ends perfectly and consistently. I wish I knew where it came from. Looking down a neck at fret level separates the boys from the men when it comes to crowning and beveling ends. I think you have to do about 30 necks before you can really be satisfied with the results. This is especially tricky when dealing with existing binding. Not for the faint of heart:)
What grit do you use on the bar? Do you start with a lower grit and work your way up to a finer grit? Or do use the different grades of grit when crowning and polishing?
But how do you know if the frets are not already glued in? I have a 2000 Telecaster with the truss rod adjustment on the head stock. I think I paid around $850 for it at the time. The frets have always been buzzy and made me quit playing several times in frustration. Same story with just about every guitar that I ever purchased. Finally picked some pro tools to take care of all the issues myself as this looks fairly straight forward to do now that I know what fall away and crowning is. Are the tops of the frets still a little flat after you are finished or are they perfectly crowned?
Been doing fretwork for quite a bit and for novices, I would say use a notched straight edge. Using just the normal straight edge on top of frets you know are not straight to start with may make a bad job worse without all the proper experience.
Gluing frets in also makes it harder to refret the neck if and when the time comes to do so. And with that soft Indian Laurel, pulling the glued frets will almost certainly pull out some of the wood as well, possibly beyond repair.
@@keithw203 In theory, yes - that may help. But if the fret wire is the correct size, pre-bent to the fretboard radius, and installed correctly, there should be no need for wholesale gluing.
Outstanding! So when doing this on a set neck, basically I would support the neck along its length, headstock hanging off?? I understand I dont use muscle, rather I use finesse, yes??
See you. It seems like a long time to me from 1985 to now. I realize that there are many mistakes, especially from myself, in dealing with various electric and acoustic guitar problems. Until now I have not witnessed changes that result in accurate installation. Leveling seems to be the mainstay and the pressradius tool is the main pressure. There are many other factors beyond that that must be considered. Until now I have concluded that many people lack enthusiasm for guitar problems. So I feel this is the best. Even though there is a lot that has been missed. Hopefully this can be my reflection. Have a good fight. My greetings from Indonesia. If you need help, I'm ready to do it as long as it's not part of my confidentiality in handling especially freting.
You should remark the frets before you crown them. Makes it easy to see when you get there. Tape the fret board before all of the sanding and then no scratches in the wood.
That were my thoughts as well.. .but then I watch movie till the end and understood his approach :P He just have enough exp to know when he can take shortcuts :D Good job! :)
I am about to refret my 93 maple neck Stratocaster as the wear is getting to be a problem. I have a set of Fender frets, precut and pre bent as I don't have all the fancy luthier tools and don't want to buy them just for this job. I have ordered a notched fretboard level as I want to start from a flat fretboard. I am undecided about the wear on the fretboard varnish - a lot of it has gone under 30 years of finger wear - it would look better revarnished, but if I sand it and revarnish , then I feel I am erasing a part of the guitar's history I have a question about levelling - at manufacture the fret slots are all machine cut to the same depth and the frets pressed in. On a home refret, if one fret is higher than the other. then could it be that it is not properly seated and a tap with a mallet might bring it back into line? - after all, the frets are all made from the same wire profile.
When you level, don't you need to use the radius blocks? Don't the frets themselves follow the radius of the fretboard? If so wouldn't the levelling process with a flat block mess up the radius?
No, here’s why. The leveling beam is 1” wide. The frets are curved in a radius, so only part of the arc is touching the leveling beam. So the straight beam allows you to follow the radius if you move it side to side as you are moving it up and down. The biggest benefit of the straight leveling beam is that it allows you to even follow a compound radius, which is not uncommon. (That, plus you don’t need to buy a bunch of different radius blocks to match every radius.) The benefit of the radius block is you can move a bit faster because it levels the entire width of the frets at once, as you move it back and forth. But then you cannot do compound radius necks so you need a straight type anyway. If you’re doing diy work, the straight leveling beam can do everything well. Maybe a high volume shop would also stock up on a bunch of radius blocks, but I see plenty just using a flat beam.
15:03 Your big reveal is hidden behind those annoying video suggestions at the end. I was enjoying it until then, and now I'm frustrated. This is someone's fault!
Bro, don't you think it's about time after 20 years to invest in the notched straightedges? I mean, you're checking the neck for straightness by laying that standard straightedge on top of frets that you JUST DETERMINED WEREN'T LEVEL WITH EACH OTHER.
Where’s the notched straight edge to straighten the neck? No taping up the fretboard? Where’s the radius block in your method after the fret level with the bar? I’m glad you’re not massacring my guitar lol,,, WHAT A WANKER LEARN TO DO THE JOB RIGHT!
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I worked with Dave in a repair shop in Nashvegas and you will not find a better fret job anywhere. He sets the bar for me when I’m doing fretwork. Paste wax and the thin CA is some straight method. Best technique hands down.
The best video I've seen on neck work. Thank you Dave!
This made me a bit confident to start doing my frets on my guitar. All I have to do now is to get the right equipment and practice on some beaters to get some experience
Word of warning...if you are doing this on a set neck or neck through guitar, either do not do the steel wool bit at the end, or mask off your pickups first, because you will get tiny steel fillings all over your pickup magnets and potentially down inside the pickups, which will be impossible to remove
Thank you. I appreciate people that take pride in their craft! I learned a lot!
Thanks for watching!
First time i’ve someone explain the importance of glueing the frets👍🎸🤘
Glad you liked it!
8:10 i have been doing frets for 20+ years.. and this is something that i just learned from this guy.. that is why my fret dressing was 'defective'.. i 'm happy to have found your video ... thanks
That's awesome!
You should be using a notched straight edge to check neck straightness otherwise your just checking it with unlevel frets!
Great no frills and fast instruction. Good job Dave
I know you've been working on guitars 20+ years just based on the fact you have the exact same Stu-Mac tools I bought in 2005. Those new black straightedges look sexy as hell, but the old silver one has been one of the most used tools I've ever owned.
I just grabbed one of the shorter under string beams. Just using the longest one I kept taking too much off. With a short one I can hit the highest frets first and then level the rest with the big one to them. Otherwise I'd still have marker on some frets and I'd level the other frets way too much just to get the high ones down.
Crazy, that may have been the first time I have heard someone discuss fallout at the heal and how to deal with it when leveling frets. Would have never known and would have just leveled everything as is.
Good to know anyone can do these repairs. Anyone who happens to have professional tools.
This is an amazing video. Thanks to David Johnson and Premier Guitar for posting this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very detailed and professional approach. However, we find that when looking for high frets by putting a straight edge across three at a time, it’s not uncommon that only part of a fret is high. We have a brass piece with a cut-out. Placing it on the high section of a fret and tapping it with a small mallet usually reseats the fret. Our preference is to do that before we resort to filing down the offending fret.
@Macmarr - Dave actually pointed out using a segmented straight edge that sits on the fretboard at 3:00 min.
Thanks for explaining fret bar tool. I got one in a kit of tools to set up my Les Paul copy Firefly fflp Classic. I found this guitar has a 14 inch radius. I bought it second hand and found it a bit hard to play after changing from overwrap on the stop to through the stop. I do recommend the notched level for testing truss rod, as it is a way to know exactly what relief you prefer and of course action height. Great video!
This is a good video, packed with useful information. I've done many levelling jobs, and agree with Dave's methods. I refretted my Telecaster last year, and foolishly didn't pay sufficient attention to seating the frets. Luckily, I realised this just as I was starting to level them, so I got some CA glue in there, locking them solid. That did a great job, and the guitar plays really well now.
"A lot of overseas makers"...
Really?
I'm sorry, but I've had 2 Gibsons - "proudly made in the USA yeehaw!!!" - over the years, and they were absolutely terrible, including the frets. Especially considering the prices they went for. Couldn't fix the issues, and I did try. Both were sold cheap, because we, in Europe, don't trust Gibson anymore to deliver up to its (largely self proclaimed) reputation.
So, you're very welcome to keep American overpriced stuff - I'm only *ever* playing Asian made instruments, because they play and sound great - mainly 90s and current Epiphone models (Korean and Indonesia) and mostly my early 80s Aria Pro-II (Japanese). Unbeatable 🤘😎🤘
Did I just miss it, or was there no mention of what grit sandpaper should be used for the initial leveling? Not to mention the differences in working with nickel vs stainless frets? A lot of good information, but just enough information for a stone cold beginner to completely ruin their guitar 😬 Details matter, especially with fretwork.
There are so many videos out there and they all succeeded in putting me off working on my own guitars! Lol
4 months late, but he did mention the grit of sandpaper. He said he uses “400, next 600(or 800), and then 1000. Wouldn’t go lower than 400 cause it’ll be too aggressive against the frets.”
He didn’t really touch on much of the nickel v stainless steel frets though
@@wayynneethat’s the sanding After the leveling. He does not mention grit for the beam level.
At 11:16
Where’s the notched straight edge to straighten the neck? No taping up the fretboard? Where’s the radius block in his method after the fret level with the bar? WHAT A WANKER!
nice to know what grit paper to use,often left out of videos.
Beautiful... two thumbs up
👍👍
Thanx!
Painters tape would be great for saving time on messing up the wood also....
Especially the purple “delicate surface “ type
No one has ever mentioned glueing the frets down. Very interesting. I’m practicing in a $20 Kirk Hammett practice guitar I got before moving onto my MIM strat.
Great video.
Tools have developed a lot in recent years - I never knew.
It's been a long while since Ive dressed frets. I didnt know that many of the overseas Fenders didnt have their frets glued in.
The truss rod adjustment always concerns me as its down to experience and feel. Less is more in my world.
Next time my System 1 strat needs strings, Ill do the frets too. ✌️👍💜😊
this video is awesome! thank you so much!
You're so welcome!
I LOVE these videos. As a guitar repairman, these are like money in the bank. LOL
Why? What’s he doing wrong?
You know this man is a true craftsman when he busts out a Stewart Mcdonald straight edge before they made the name change to Stewmac. bad ass! hahaha
Great information sir!!
My telecaster Squier has a weird D chord sound sounds like it’s out of tune even after I tuned it, and I think this might help
Excellent video, thank you!
I saw a YT video the other week where the guy had a bit for his drill press that would crown and bevel fret ends perfectly and consistently. I wish I knew where it came from. Looking down a neck at fret level separates the boys from the men when it comes to crowning and beveling ends. I think you have to do about 30 necks before you can really be satisfied with the results. This is especially tricky when dealing with existing binding. Not for the faint of heart:)
What grit do you use on the bar? Do you start with a lower grit and work your way up to a finer grit?
Or do use the different grades of grit when crowning and polishing?
Great Video I mean AWESOME Thanks
Awesome....how do I remove wax from a varnished maple fingerboard? Or, do I tape the board before gluing frets, as done with block (pearl) inlays?
Nice! I just got a job as a starting tech and so I’m learning on the job. This is pretty helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Very Educational. Fun watching a Real Pro work.
But how do you know if the frets are not already glued in? I have a 2000 Telecaster with the truss rod adjustment on the head stock. I think I paid around $850 for it at the time. The frets have always been buzzy and made me quit playing several times in frustration. Same story with just about every guitar that I ever purchased. Finally picked some pro tools to take care of all the issues myself as this looks fairly straight forward to do now that I know what fall away and crowning is. Are the tops of the frets still a little flat after you are finished or are they perfectly crowned?
Players will beat a path to your door if you have these skills & tools or a plek machine.
Been doing fretwork for quite a bit and for novices, I would say use a notched straight edge. Using just the normal straight edge on top of frets you know are not straight to start with may make a bad job worse without all the proper experience.
Thanks for the video. But I don't mess around with Fall Away and I've never had a problem. Just my experience.
Gluing frets in also makes it harder to refret the neck if and when the time comes to do so. And with that soft Indian Laurel, pulling the glued frets will almost certainly pull out some of the wood as well, possibly beyond repair.
You can take a soldering iron with a bit of solder, run it across the frets. That will heat up the glue and release it.
@@keithw203 In theory, yes - that may help. But if the fret wire is the correct size, pre-bent to the fretboard radius, and installed correctly, there should be no need for wholesale gluing.
Outstanding! So when doing this on a set neck, basically I would support the neck along its length, headstock hanging off?? I understand I dont use muscle, rather I use finesse, yes??
Wouldnt measuring how level the board is from the already unlevel frets give u a false reading?
What grit sandpaper are you using on the understring leveler?
What grit sandpaper would you recommend to use with a fret leveling beam?
Hi..Great video.....one?? .....when using the sandpaper u didn't hang the head off the table like with the sanding beam..any reason? Thanks Dave
What grit did you use for the leveler?
Very informative thanks. Just a question though.. What is the sanding grit of the fret level? Is it a 400?
hello my question is if can take out the frets out why we dont put smaller thinner frets so we wont bother sanding it later ? anyone
See you. It seems like a long time to me from 1985 to now. I realize that there are many mistakes, especially from myself, in dealing with various electric and acoustic guitar problems. Until now I have not witnessed changes that result in accurate installation. Leveling seems to be the mainstay and the pressradius tool is the main pressure. There are many other factors beyond that that must be considered. Until now I have concluded that many people lack enthusiasm for guitar problems. So I feel this is the best. Even though there is a lot that has been missed. Hopefully this can be my reflection. Have a good fight. My greetings from Indonesia. If you need help, I'm ready to do it as long as it's not part of my confidentiality in handling especially freting.
You should remark the frets before you crown them. Makes it easy to see when you get there. Tape the fret board before all of the sanding and then no scratches in the wood.
That were my thoughts as well.. .but then I watch movie till the end and understood his approach :P He just have enough exp to know when he can take shortcuts :D Good job! :)
thanks. Do you have experience with Warmoth necks? Do frets often need leveling?
Should I release or tighten truss rod to make neck straight before levelling?
Stewmac of course
I am about to refret my 93 maple neck Stratocaster as the wear is getting to be a problem. I have a set of Fender frets, precut and pre bent as I don't have all the fancy luthier tools and don't want to buy them just for this job. I have ordered a notched fretboard level as I want to start from a flat fretboard. I am undecided about the wear on the fretboard varnish - a lot of it has gone under 30 years of finger wear - it would look better revarnished, but if I sand it and revarnish , then I feel I am erasing a part of the guitar's history
I have a question about levelling - at manufacture the fret slots are all machine cut to the same depth and the frets pressed in. On a home refret, if one fret is higher than the other. then could it be that it is not properly seated and a tap with a mallet might bring it back into line? - after all, the frets are all made from the same wire profile.
I read an article that even the American made fenders do not have glued in frets? Is thus true and why not?
When you level, don't you need to use the radius blocks? Don't the frets themselves follow the radius of the fretboard? If so wouldn't the levelling process with a flat block mess up the radius?
No, here’s why. The leveling beam is 1” wide. The frets are curved in a radius, so only part of the arc is touching the leveling beam. So the straight beam allows you to follow the radius if you move it side to side as you are moving it up and down. The biggest benefit of the straight leveling beam is that it allows you to even follow a compound radius, which is not uncommon. (That, plus you don’t need to buy a bunch of different radius blocks to match every radius.)
The benefit of the radius block is you can move a bit faster because it levels the entire width of the frets at once, as you move it back and forth. But then you cannot do compound radius necks so you need a straight type anyway. If you’re doing diy work, the straight leveling beam can do everything well. Maybe a high volume shop would also stock up on a bunch of radius blocks, but I see plenty just using a flat beam.
on a beater squier huh
Those usually need the most work.
15:03 Your big reveal is hidden behind those annoying video suggestions at the end. I was enjoying it until then, and now I'm frustrated. This is someone's fault!
Great video, that work cost more than the guitar
Probably
Bro, don't you think it's about time after 20 years to invest in the notched straightedges? I mean, you're checking the neck for straightness by laying that standard straightedge on top of frets that you JUST DETERMINED WEREN'T LEVEL WITH EACH OTHER.
Glueing frets in is a no no...If you use the proper frets with the correct woods the never need glue!
Where’s the notched straight edge to straighten the neck? No taping up the fretboard? Where’s the radius block in your method after the fret level with the bar? I’m glad you’re not massacring my guitar lol,,, WHAT A WANKER LEARN TO DO THE JOB RIGHT!
I call BS on "gluing frets increases sustain" or whatever nonsense you spouted. It helps hold the fret in, that's all. It's not required.
Wait till you have a fret come up from the fretboard, cause it wasn’t glued from the factory. That rattling sound will do wonders for your sustain.
You couldn’t be anymore wrong chuck. Glueing frets absolutely increases sustain. That’s a fact.
Bad take alert
“It merely keeps the frets from falling out of the fretboard” seems like a decent bonus even if it didn’t increase sustain.
My dillema is can I trust myself to do this to my favorite guitar (she needs it)?!
remove the end video suggestions, cant see shit bcoz of it lol