Thank you so much for your video. I called out a electrician to fix my immersion and he couldn't diagnose the problem. But with this video and my solar panels I was able determine my thermostat had gone. Orderd it and replace it my self. Total cost £25 and 2 minutes to replace. literally. Thanks again.
Thank you for this video, it’s the only one that I could find on RUclips that genuinely helped me replace my indirect thermostat. My santon cylinder is a slightly different setup but nonetheless I figured it out.
Hi Kieran, thanks for the video, it explains why my immersion heater isn't working. When you showed the thermostat wiring connections, I noticed mine was not wired. As we have not needed it over the last 14 years, it hasn't been an issue, until now. Gas Valve on our boiler has gone and we are awaiting the replacement. Builders have long gone and I don't they would have been of any help. They say cold showers are good for you.
Trade tip: If it's swelteringly hot and you're working in a confined loft space, try removing your fleece (don't think that is actually covered by the unvented domestic HW syllabus, to be fair, so I can understand how you missed it).
Top marks good video, had one the same today only after watching your video later on,I was also going in blind so ordered the whole immersion on doing tests it proved to be the sat. Happy days for me.Customer not happy but if I had left them with out hot water for the weekend? Should have taken the call out fee it would have been cheaper.
Thank you very much for this detaild and very helpful video. I have a question regarding to the Thermostat with positions from 1 to 5. As I can see on your video the Thermostat was put on 5 befor and after. I have the same water heater in my flat that we are renting. Our lendlord says, that if the Thermostat is put higher than 3 the heater it going to be damaged/burned out. Is it correct? I have a timer for this heater with 4 options to use. The landlord claims if the heater is running 4 times during a day only for 1 or 2 hours each slot, the heater element is going to be destroyed. Is it correct? Thank you very much for your help.
By putting the thermostat on 5 of course the temperature will increase and so will the electricity bill. Let's compare this to a motor vehicle... will pushing the acceleration to maximum destroy your car sooner? Yes probably
Thanks for the video upload. What is the purpose of the black wire to the bottom of the 3rd bank of the wiring? I am also wondering if there is any investigation into looking at why the thermostat has failed?
The black _wires_ may be the temperature probes of the boiler run stat and high temp cut out stat. The blue immersion thermostat has its own high temp cut out which is just under the number 2. Use a pen point to reset it.
on copper cylinders the resistance may be good like between 15 and 25 ohms but it still may not work. this could be because at the bottom of the cylinder is filled with limescale.
+Martin Farmer Thanks Martin Did you perhaps mean an earth loop impedance test or an insulation test? Why would you single those tests out in particular?
I didn't think you needed a electrical qualification to wire a immersion the same as you re wiring a plug. Can you explain and also do you need a qualification to wire a boiler or change a zone valve roomstat or timer the regs as a whole ???? Thanks in advance.
+B1cam Hi B1cam No you're right you don't need an electrical qualification (Unless the installation is in your bathroom or kitchen (unlikley!)) But if you're messing with an "Unvented System" you need to be Gas Safe Unvented Category Qualified. In the end I didn't need to break the seal of the tank so strictly speaking, even I didn't NEED to be qualified to do this... G'luck!
The reason you need the qualification is there is a lot of scaremongering that the hot water tank can explode under the pressure of boiling water if, for example, the immersion heater stuck on. The reality is though that the pipes would fly off the tank long before the tank could explode.
Ktec you seem to be confused about the relevant qualifications required.Gassafe has nothing to do with it .You needs G3 certification. Are you sure you are qualified or did you just break the law? Lol.
the explosion is not the water pressure really . The boiling point of water is higher under pressure. When water under pressure above 100 degrees escapes the cylinder it instantly expandes into steam which is 11,000 times more volume. So the critical safety of these systems is to never allow the water to get to 100 plus degrees. Hence why you need the correct qualification and knowledge to ensure you fit and test the correct parts with the correction working temperature cut outs.
I don't recall the G3 regulation approving the use of PLASTIC hep2o pipe on the discharge!! Surely if ur qualified u would have picked up on that straight away and insisted on the importance of having that correctly installed!!
I disagree with you regarding plumbers shying from wiring jobs.I do all my own wiring because the sparks i have used in the past seem to be confused by heating controls.Anything more complicated than a s plan system they seem to struggle which amazes me as its so simple.Plus i have never heard off or met a spark with a G3 qualification. Yes i am g3 qualified and renew it every 5 years.Just one of the many expenses us plumbing/heating engineers have to pay for. The above mentioned sparks I still highly rate as everything else they do is second to none.
Today - New Year's Day- I have lost all internal water to my house. There is good pressure from the external supply at my kitchen tap but no water going anywhere else into the house rooms. No water to the toilets, bathrooms or shower. I have no hot water and there is no water coming from any of the taps. I have a Megaflow unvented system and on speaking to a couple of specialists by phone today, they both consider that the only explanation for the lack of both cold and hot water is the failure of the pressure reducing/blending valve on the cylinder. There is no plumber available at present unfortunately and I am stuck with no hot water at all and no cold water apart from the kitchen tap. Has anyone any advice on this and whether indeed that particular valve must be the problem or could there be some other explanation for the total lack of water. Any thoughts and advice would be gratefully received. Peter Taylor Brewood Staffordshire
You have a fault on combination valve. Filter blocked. Sometimes you can clean it but most of the time you have too change it. Get a local unvented plumber to change it
Do you actually have the Unvented Hot Water qualification as if not you're breaking Building Regulations doing this work, and exposing your customer to a possible explosion.
+Liam Harrison True Liam but I attended the job "blind" with no previous knowledge of what I would find. The excess part will not go to waste it will be used for the next job.
Don't know many plumbers that don't deal with these. I dont know any sparks with an unvented ticket as they dont install them. Maybe thats just me. Btw videos like these will lead the amateur to make mistakes in my opinion. So much missed out to correctly fault find. As an example, I've had a faulty fused spur with intermittent contact on the neutral. You never checked voltage between neutral and earth. If stray voltage on the neutral this would play havoc with the timer if there is one. Always start at the spur with basic electric tests. It will save you.
The only reason they give these "qualifications" out is to create jobs for otherwise useless people. Anyone with 1/2 a brain can figure this out.Most UK plumbers might have that 1/2 brain, can be issued with a "qualification", but are absolutely brain dead with ergonomic installation. From my experience, you'd be luck to get 30p on the £ for UK workers... the other 70p is spent on their phones or talking about their kids playing football or having their "tea".
@@yoya4766 Yup, I'm early 60s... no qualifications, built my own power amps, rebuilt diesel engines (6 in total) rebuilt motorcycles, database designer, commercial fisherman for marlin/tuna/wahoo, and am an advisory on serious motorcycle events .... just rewired a 4 zone heating system in my house, electrics in new garage (3phase)... no "official" qualifications - I understand the systems.. not "the book".
Thank you so much for your video. I called out a electrician to fix my immersion and he couldn't diagnose the problem. But with this video and my solar panels I was able determine my thermostat had gone. Orderd it and replace it my self. Total cost £25 and 2 minutes to replace. literally. Thanks again.
Cool. I wanted to see where my immersion temperature adjustment was. Thanks for allowing me to sanity check what I was looking at 👏
Thanks for the informative post, haters gonna hate an honest hard worker who's helping others.
Not haters, but scammers mostly in London.
Thank you for this video, it’s the only one that I could find on RUclips that genuinely helped me replace my indirect thermostat. My santon cylinder is a slightly different setup but nonetheless I figured it out.
Hi Kieran, thanks for the video, it explains why my immersion heater isn't working. When you showed the thermostat wiring connections, I noticed mine was not wired. As we have not needed it over the last 14 years, it hasn't been an issue, until now. Gas Valve on our boiler has gone and we are awaiting the replacement. Builders have long gone and I don't they would have been of any help. They say cold showers are good for you.
Great video, very useful indeed. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍🏻
Trade tip: If it's swelteringly hot and you're working in a confined loft space, try removing your fleece (don't think that is actually covered by the unvented domestic HW syllabus, to be fair, so I can understand how you missed it).
Man's not hot, never hot
Top marks good video, had one the same today only after watching your video later on,I was also going in blind so ordered the whole immersion on doing tests it proved to be the sat. Happy days for me.Customer not happy but if I had left them with out hot water for the weekend? Should have taken the call out fee it would have been cheaper.
MATEE!!! It’s Chris lenton from Acton training centre!
Chris! Hi Dude, sorry I don't check the comments very often! Lovely to see you man. We had some laughs there huh?! Facebook me !
Thank you very much for this detaild and very helpful video. I have a question regarding to the Thermostat with positions from 1 to 5. As I can see on your video the Thermostat was put on 5 befor and after. I have the same water heater in my flat that we are renting. Our lendlord says, that if the Thermostat is put higher than 3 the heater it going to be damaged/burned out. Is it correct? I have a timer for this heater with 4 options to use. The landlord claims if the heater is running 4 times during a day only for 1 or 2 hours each slot, the heater element is going to be destroyed. Is it correct? Thank you very much for your help.
By putting the thermostat on 5 of course the temperature will increase and so will the electricity bill. Let's compare this to a motor vehicle... will pushing the acceleration to maximum destroy your car sooner? Yes probably
Thanks for the video upload. What is the purpose of the black wire to the bottom of the 3rd bank of the wiring? I am also wondering if there is any investigation into looking at why the thermostat has failed?
The black _wires_ may be the temperature probes of the boiler run stat and high temp cut out stat. The blue immersion thermostat has its own high temp cut out which is just under the number 2. Use a pen point to reset it.
on copper cylinders the resistance may be good like between 15 and 25 ohms but it still may not work. this could be because at the bottom of the cylinder is filled with limescale.
As well as testing for resistance, you should have done an Earth insulation test at 500v.
+Martin Farmer Thanks Martin Did you perhaps mean an earth loop impedance test or an insulation test? Why would you single those tests out in particular?
Idk
I didn't think you needed a electrical qualification to wire a immersion the same as you re wiring a plug. Can you explain and also do you need a qualification to wire a boiler or change a zone valve roomstat or timer the regs as a whole ???? Thanks in advance.
+B1cam Hi B1cam
No you're right you don't need an electrical qualification (Unless the installation is in your bathroom or kitchen (unlikley!))
But if you're messing with an "Unvented System" you need to be Gas Safe Unvented Category Qualified.
In the end I didn't need to break the seal of the tank so strictly speaking, even I didn't NEED to be qualified to do this...
G'luck!
The reason you need the qualification is there is a lot of scaremongering that the hot water tank can explode under the pressure of boiling water if, for example, the immersion heater stuck on. The reality is though that the pipes would fly off the tank long before the tank could explode.
Ktec you seem to be confused about the relevant qualifications required.Gassafe has nothing to do with it .You needs G3 certification.
Are you sure you are qualified or did you just break the law? Lol.
the explosion is not the water pressure really . The boiling point of water is higher under pressure. When water under pressure above 100 degrees escapes the cylinder it instantly expandes into steam which is 11,000 times more volume. So the critical safety of these systems is to never allow the water to get to 100 plus degrees. Hence why you need the correct qualification and knowledge to ensure you fit and test the correct parts with the correction working temperature cut outs.
@@hunterb9273 16,000 times when turns to steam 🙄
Put your ear to the cylinder you will hear a buzzing noise when the immersion is working
can you replace the immersion heater without draining the unvented cylinder??
No
I don't recall the G3 regulation approving the use of PLASTIC hep2o pipe on the discharge!! Surely if ur qualified u would have picked up on that straight away and insisted on the importance of having that correctly installed!!
+Andrew Knight Well done for picking that up Andrew. Credit to you.
I disagree with you regarding plumbers shying from wiring jobs.I do all my own wiring because the sparks i have used in the past seem to be confused by heating controls.Anything more complicated than a s plan system they seem to struggle which amazes me as its so simple.Plus i have never heard off or met a spark with a G3 qualification.
Yes i am g3 qualified and renew it every 5 years.Just one of the many expenses us plumbing/heating engineers have to pay for.
The above mentioned sparks I still highly rate as everything else they do is second to none.
Pity about the John guest fittings on the TPRV and no tundish visible . Poor install by who ever
Today - New Year's Day- I have lost all internal water to my house. There is good pressure from the external supply at my kitchen tap but no water going anywhere else into the house rooms. No water to the toilets, bathrooms or shower. I have no hot water and there is no water coming from any of the taps. I have a Megaflow unvented system and on speaking to a couple of specialists by phone today, they both consider that the only explanation for the lack of both cold and hot water is the failure of the pressure reducing/blending valve on the cylinder. There is no plumber available at present unfortunately and I am stuck with no hot water at all and no cold water apart from the kitchen tap. Has anyone any advice on this and whether indeed that particular valve must be the problem or could there be some other explanation for the total lack of water. Any thoughts and advice would be gratefully received.
Peter Taylor
Brewood Staffordshire
You have a fault on combination valve. Filter blocked. Sometimes you can clean it but most of the time you have too change it. Get a local unvented plumber to change it
Positive and negative? On AC??
+SDG Electronics What would you have preferred me to say? And please back up your argument.
Do u need to drain the tank before u change the thermostat?
Yes
@@ktecelectricians8144 No you don't. You need to drain the tank to replace the element.
Do you actually have the Unvented Hot Water qualification as if not you're breaking Building Regulations doing this work, and exposing your customer to a possible explosion.
Wow
Could of saved 70 pounds if you tested the stat and element before buying it. Good for people who don't know how to test resistance of a element tho.
+Liam Harrison True Liam but I attended the job "blind" with no previous knowledge of what I would find. The excess part will not go to waste it will be used for the next job.
prove-test-prove before disconnecting the element as a meter may be not working.
u don't show how u fix it probably
So an Element was ordered but not needed ...?
Of course, how would he know without seeing it before, now he will have it in stock for when he needs it.
I am working solar panel ' solar energy convert into electrical energy
Accurate but slow and boring
Don't know many plumbers that don't deal with these. I dont know any sparks with an unvented ticket as they dont install them. Maybe thats just me. Btw videos like these will lead the amateur to make mistakes in my opinion. So much missed out to correctly fault find. As an example, I've had a faulty fused spur with intermittent contact on the neutral. You never checked voltage between neutral and earth. If stray voltage on the neutral this would play havoc with the timer if there is one. Always start at the spur with basic electric tests. It will save you.
Cut you fingernails and if it’s 1000 degrees in the loft take your jacket off
The only reason they give these "qualifications" out is to create jobs for otherwise useless people. Anyone with 1/2 a brain can figure this out.Most UK plumbers might have that 1/2 brain, can be issued with a "qualification", but are absolutely brain dead with ergonomic installation. From my experience, you'd be luck to get 30p on the £ for UK workers... the other 70p is spent on their phones or talking about their kids playing football or having their "tea".
So true, I plan to learn the trades myself as I cannot bear their cheeky chappy nonsense. They cannot explain a thing because they're brain dead.
@@yoya4766 Yup, I'm early 60s... no qualifications, built my own power amps, rebuilt diesel engines (6 in total) rebuilt motorcycles, database designer, commercial fisherman for marlin/tuna/wahoo, and am an advisory on serious motorcycle events .... just rewired a 4 zone heating system in my house, electrics in new garage (3phase)... no "official" qualifications - I understand the systems.. not "the book".
Devastating safe isolation procedure :(