Many thanks for this, especially the copper slip tip; easily got an extra quarter turn using less force, and stopped the drippy leak that had been plaguing me!
like everything you do here ! 1 thing i usually do before i drain down the domestic hot water is to get the immersion spanner on the immersion and give it the first " crack " while you've got the head pressure still acting on the cylinder ! - A fully drained cylinder is a lot less stable and thus more prone to cracking with the force of an immersion spanner !
This was really helpful. I'm about to fit an immersion heater in a big plastic tank that I've converted into a hot tub, and this told me all the things I needed to know.
I've always loosened the element while the tank still has water in it. Doesn't need to be much, just budge it that first little quarter-turn. Sounds counter-intuitive, but an empty copper cylinder is way more liable to distort (then subsequently leak) if it's empty. If it's an unfamiliar installation, it's probably a good idea to let a littlewater out of the draincock first to make sure it isn't blocked.
Watching you undo that element worried me as you were applying all the pressure on one side and buckling the cylinder. I always put a long bar through the box spanner and apply an even pressure to both sides. I think this stresses the cylinder less. Never damaged a cylinder yet.
I too was wincing when I saw this. Sensible people would also soak the assembly thoroughly with WD 40 and leave for a few minutes before attempting to loosen....
My element would not move and the tank started to buckle so stopped and went and had a word with my supplier. His suggestion was to use a hot air gun to soften the jointing compound that had been use worked a treat, I did have to remove some of the insulation first to stop it burning.
watching this from the U.S. its amazing to see how the procedure is the same but all the equipment is totally different. our tanks look nothing like yours, the thermostats are usually located away from the elements, and we generally don't run an economy style cutoff for a dual element. so its nice to see how things look/work on the other side of the pond :)
John, ptfe is good idea..not for seal as your right the washer does seal...but the tape stops water scaling up the threads, making it easy to remove in future...oh and crack that joint whilst full...stops tank twisting
Before unscrewing the element Give a clockwise tightening, and then it's easy to unscrew. How KWatts is this element? If you want to drain the water, opened the tap of warm! Thanks for the video.
I did not read alll the comments so sorry if it was mentioned but would be good to hear you say about checking the setting on the Thermostat before leaving it.
Hi. I need some advice if you see this comment. I need to change my immersion heater but non of the available immersion box spanners fit around the nut. I really am stuck now, is there smaller sizes than the standard 86mm spanners ? I need approx a 3inch spanner size. The immersion is for a NIBE which are popular in Sweden. 🤦🏻♂️
Well done mate, it's not an easy one replaceing the immersion heater, it can be a real James Hunt to unscrew it!! You covered most things, perhaps you could of shown testing the element with a multimeter, ohms law etc? Another tip your viewer may like is using a blowtorch if it's too tight to unscrew; remove the thermostat & heat the centre of the old immersor for a good few minutes(don't burn the cylinder insulation), then while it's still very hot unscrew with your box spanner. Dickie...;-)
another good video, hanks. The only thing I'm a little unsure about is how tight to fit the new element. Would I fit it hand tight and after filling then tighten it fully.
Good video, after watching this I'm feeling confident enough to change my own immersion heater. I just don't know what length replacement I need to order so I can swap it over. My current immersion says "Backer Type-327", its on the top of my cylinder but I have no idea what length it is, is there any way to tell without removing it? or is there a generic size I could buy and it will be fine? thanks for any advice you can give.
Hiya, good educational video as always. My immersion heater is situated below & took at least 2 hours to drain why?. You said it will take 15 to 20 minutes. Please inform me what I did wrong. Cheers mate. Keep well!!
Here's a wee leason on testing the element on an immersion heater; Test everything is dead before you are, just do this if you're OK with electrics. Right; with a multi meter test the Ohms resistance of the element only, not through the thermostat. Ohms Law; 3000watts div 230Vac = 13Amps 230Vac div 13Amps = 17.69Ohms So a 3KW immersion heater element should have a 17.69Ohms Resistance. Got it??
Spot-on, Mr Washer! A good tip is to also check between the element's Live or Neutral pins and its earth terminal using the MegOhms range of your meter - obviously there should be no connection, i.e. very high or infinite resistance. I'm about to change an immersion heater which reads about 17 Ohms Live to Neutral, but unfortunately reads about 10 Ohms Live to Earth. Circuit breaker, him go POP! :-(
Hi great easy to follow channel I have just moved home to a house that has solar panels max output just over 3kw on a hot day I’ve wired a timer switch on the standard 3kw immersion heater but thinking of changing it to a low power 1kw so can tap into the free power other than just mid summer . Question is , with the cylinder thats 22years old . would it be worth the risk of possibility damaging it trying to replace the immersion heater on a cylinder that old .
Hi, I have a E7 flat and when we turn on the water heater after a time, obviously its heating the water, the feed tank starts to bubble as if the water is boilers and the pipes from boiler start to bang. Once that happens we turn the boost off and all is fine. Would that be a faulty stat i.e. never turning off or? Thanks in advance!
what compound are you using? had to do 2 of these on a combination cylinder, and like you said, cant fully tighten it without water inside or risk tearing cylinder open. only used fibre gasket and were there ages trying to tighten up the heaters with the spanner, ended up putting a bit of 15mm pipe over the handle for extra leverage...
My mate had a faulty Immersion heater. It had stuck on and was actually boiling the water! He only realized when the house was full of moisture! We all had a great brew though.
Think you should fully remove the fuse when you switch it off at the junction box incase someone comes along and turns it on whilst you are working on it. apart from that it was very informative thanks
Can you help ? I need to replace the insert in my hot water Bath tap but I am struggling to isolate the hot water. Is it the RED valve on the piping to the front of the tank ? How long will it take to clear the hot water in the pipework ? THANKS !
Instead of fishing from the immersion hole. You can open the support washers slightly as it’s a split washer,Then you can put the thread on the anchor line, push it through the hole, then do a screw motion with the washer, then push the rubber washer through the hole. Bobs your uncle.. pull the thread out the hole...minimal chance of losing anything also use a tooth pick hook the metal ones from boots to pull the anchor hook back through the hole. It’s a 2 minute job
Is draining the tank the same as stopping the supply but running the hotwater at the bath tap ? I have only one immersion fitted from the top , I assume I just need to drain the water about a third .
when the drain valve doesn't drain, I turn off the supply to the cylinder, open the hot taps so the hot water is drained off to the top of the cylinder. Then loosen the nut at the top of the cylinder that joins the 22mm copper pipe to the cylinder(a small amount of water will run out). Then I pull the pipe out the way and syphon the water out of the cylinder with a hose pipe, the wc or bath is normally pretty close so I just shove the other end of the hose pipe down there.
Do you have a video about replacing the whole of the tank? We are on economy 7 yet have a standard tank which A, we are unable to boost during the day and B, provides not enough hot water for the family. Many thanks!!
what kind of price would u say this would cost my old tank is just about done last guy fitted this and left it leaking it is now tripping the fuse has lasted a few years tried new thermostat just tripped again so it must be the element yes preferable woud be great to fit a new modern tank but not sure where to start
If you do it yourself, the immersion costs about £35 in most plumbers merchants. If you're going to pay a plumber, the whole job will cost about £135 or something....SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️if you haven't already!
just happened to me, water does drain but very slowly, I trusted in the 15 minutes as he said:) I rushed a little without thinking that by this flow there is no way it could drain 150 liters:) since I am changing the top one I thought lets see lol, and all floor in water:) I managed to close the immersion heater back but Im stuck how to drain it now lol, I guess maybe unvented tanks are a bit different than what he does here, even though great video but floor in water, hmmm what is the next step
I've just changed my thermostat as the water in my immersion tank started to bubble and boil one night but now I only seem to be getting 3/4's of the hot water I used to before it turns cold. I never changed anything just dropped in the new thermostat rod. Do you have any ideas why this could be, thanks.
+plumberparts Thanks for answering, Yes, same length, I took the old thermostat with me to get a replacement, I was not sure if the fact the water in the tank boiled had anything to do with it. It happened in the middle of the night I could hear it boiling so I switched it off and replaced the thermostat which did cure it and I get hot water at the right temperature only now when running a bath the hot water goes cold quicker than it used to and I only get 3/4 of what I did before.
DONT RUSH IT TAKE YOU TIME AND SHOW US EVERYTHING, ITS INTERSTING BUT U SKIP SOME PARTS NEAR TO THE END GO FULL IN DETAIL AND SHOW US EXACTLY WHAT YOU WOULD DO NEXT, GREAT JOB
Hiya John... I'm going to replace the immersion heater element in my hot water tank - the current model is a 11" Backer BS311C (I'm assuming the C stands for copper). I was wondering if a new Backer replacement will be wired slightly differently due to changes in regulations or even easier if I would be okay just picking up a new element from my local Screwfix just down the road (not sure of the quality of their generic elements)? [Mark]
Excellent video, however, for a novice, you actually blocked the shot of testing the circuit with a multimeter to determine that the power was off, someone may meed to see that particular shot!
Hey John, quick Q: My bottom immersion heater doesn't seem to work but the top one does. It may be a wiring issue (new place I've moved in to). Is there any harm in me swapping the wiring around from the top one to the bottom one? I plan on installing a digital timer so having a full tank of hot is what I aim for. great post and channel BTW.
davide pascolo Bottom one is the night cheap electricity heat store. Top one is boost. Get an electrician in to do the work as it'll need a ticket to sign it off. Regards, PP!
***** Thanks John, I think I'm just going to replace the whole thing with a new one and follow your instructions on the video clip. I'll need to change kitchen taps soon after and fix a noisy flushing toilet, all of which I'm sure you cover in your great video's. Very much appreciated :)
Then you're draining the whole tank out in the loft too, then cutting a valve in as part of the job! Good luck! Sub here please>> ruclips.net/user/plumberparts
I was afraid you were going to say that,looks like there is nothing else for it, i will deffo add a gatevalve to shut the cylinder off shouldn't be to difficult. cheers
I've just done one of these this weekend just gone and it was a right bitch of a job! Right from the start continuous issue after issue. Got it done and working perfectly in the end but I certainly don't wanna have to do that again in a hurry I can tell you.😂 but really great video though.👌👍
@Tabassam86 Sorry mate you're quite right, it is classed as potable. You know what; that's the second time I've been wrong............in this life time!! It amazing to think it was 2002 I did my Water By-laws, I think I need a refresher.........!!!
You mustn't have fitted many they just love to leak. So theres a tiny drip you can tear the copper cylinder by over tightening or you can drain the whole thing down again and put on ptfe and boss white.
Done mine at home a good few times. Never once managed to get it leak free without the ptfe tape and joining compounds. There's a lot of pressure on them so they love to leak.
Agreed. I’ve changed a dozen with no leaks by just using the (new) fibre washer These people who can’t get it to seal without all kinds of crap applied to it can’t be very good plumbers....
*Links to the tools I use everyday here:* www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts
Plus, follow my *Vlog “TimesWithJames”:* ruclips.net/user/timeswithjames
very well described you are the only vid to show bottom mounted immersion heater removal thank you!
Many thanks for this, especially the copper slip tip; easily got an extra quarter turn using less force, and stopped the drippy leak that had been plaguing me!
This vid saved me hundreds of quid, massive thanks!
like everything you do here ! 1 thing i usually do before i drain down the domestic hot water is to get the immersion spanner on the immersion and give it the first " crack " while you've got the head pressure still acting on the cylinder ! - A fully drained cylinder is a lot less stable and thus more prone to cracking with the force of an immersion spanner !
+Mike Rice Same here man!
Love your videos, I'm just a bit shocked that you didn't use the pole and hammer, plus wet vac the bottom of the cylinder to get rid of scale
Just followed this guide and it’s spot on! Thanks very much mate 👍🏻
Superb instructions - thank you
This was really helpful. I'm about to fit an immersion heater in a big plastic tank that I've converted into a hot tub, and this told me all the things I needed to know.
Great video. Helped me out big time about 5 years ago. Mate your videos are essential viewing for plumbing info and jokes! Ledge!
nice clear instructions - did not realise the tank needed draining. so I think its one for a professional
this is a very good video. thanks for all the excellent tips and information.
I've always loosened the element while the tank still has water in it. Doesn't need to be much, just budge it that first little quarter-turn. Sounds counter-intuitive, but an empty copper cylinder is way more liable to distort (then subsequently leak) if it's empty. If it's an unfamiliar installation, it's probably a good idea to let a littlewater out of the draincock first to make sure it isn't blocked.
Watching you undo that element worried me as you were applying all the pressure on one side and buckling the cylinder. I always put a long bar through the box spanner and apply an even pressure to both sides. I think this stresses the cylinder less. Never damaged a cylinder yet.
+devonfuse Thanks for the heads up! PP!
Here here!
I too was wincing when I saw this. Sensible people would also soak the assembly thoroughly with WD 40 and leave for a few minutes before attempting to loosen....
That Gent is GOOD....
THANKS
My element would not move and the tank started to buckle so stopped and went and had a word with my supplier. His suggestion was to use a hot air gun to soften the jointing compound that had been use worked a treat, I did have to remove some of the insulation first to stop it burning.
Ok, but all good now?
SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️if you haven't already!
Yes all good thanks ,your vide are very useful
watching this from the U.S. its amazing to see how the procedure is the same but all the equipment is totally different. our tanks look nothing like yours, the thermostats are usually located away from the elements, and we generally don't run an economy style cutoff for a dual element. so its nice to see how things look/work on the other side of the pond :)
Cheers dude!
Thanks ever so much Heatandplumb. A nice, straight forward step by step guide that's empowered me to get the job done myself. Really appreciate it.
Great post. Very clear easy to follow instructions Thanks for sharing.
John, ptfe is good idea..not for seal as your right the washer does seal...but the tape stops water scaling up the threads, making it easy to remove in future...oh and crack that joint whilst full...stops tank twisting
Indeed George!
Thanks for this, it answered my question about compound and PTFE. Any tips on a quick way to get the sludge out of the bottom of the tank?
Before unscrewing the element Give a clockwise tightening, and then it's easy to unscrew. How KWatts is this element? If you want to drain the water, opened the tap of warm! Thanks for the video.
Awesome video and quite amusing,
likable bloke
Always remember to clean the threads on the flange out before reassembling, been there done that and had to replace the tank.
What do you use to clean the threads, a brush?
@@ijustwanttoaskaquestion106 small brass suede brush
I've got one to replace. Is there a reason you used grips on the box spanner rather than the supplied tommy bar?
you did do mention the wire coming out of the thermostat. live in. other wire out, is that live wire to element?
I did not read alll the comments so sorry if it was mentioned but would be good to hear you say about checking the setting on the Thermostat before leaving it.
Hi. I need some advice if you see this comment. I need to change my immersion heater but non of the available immersion box spanners fit around the nut. I really am stuck now, is there smaller sizes than the standard 86mm spanners ? I need approx a 3inch spanner size. The immersion is for a NIBE which are popular in Sweden. 🤦🏻♂️
Well done mate, it's not an easy one replaceing the immersion heater, it can be a real James Hunt to unscrew it!! You covered most things, perhaps you could of shown testing the element with a multimeter, ohms law etc? Another tip your viewer may like is using a blowtorch if it's too tight to unscrew; remove the thermostat & heat the centre of the old immersor for a good few minutes(don't burn the cylinder insulation), then while it's still very hot unscrew with your box spanner. Dickie...;-)
another good video, hanks.
The only thing I'm a little unsure about is how tight to fit the new element. Would I fit it hand tight and after filling then tighten it fully.
Thank you. That's a Really great VT So helpful.
Great video. Helped me out alot. Cheers
Good video, after watching this I'm feeling confident enough to change my own immersion heater. I just don't know what length replacement I need to order so I can swap it over. My current immersion says "Backer Type-327", its on the top of my cylinder but I have no idea what length it is, is there any way to tell without removing it? or is there a generic size I could buy and it will be fine? thanks for any advice you can give.
Hiya, good educational video as always. My immersion heater is situated below & took at least 2 hours to drain why?. You said it will take 15 to 20 minutes. Please inform me what I did wrong. Cheers mate. Keep well!!
Perhaps you didn't open the hot water tap . Then you wouldn't get a vacuum in the system !
looks easy enough mate keep up the gd work !!!!
Here's a wee leason on testing the element on an immersion heater;
Test everything is dead before you are, just do this if you're OK with electrics.
Right; with a multi meter test the Ohms resistance of the element only, not through the thermostat. Ohms Law; 3000watts div 230Vac = 13Amps
230Vac div 13Amps = 17.69Ohms
So a 3KW immersion heater element should have a 17.69Ohms Resistance.
Got it??
Spot-on, Mr Washer! A good tip is to also check between the element's Live or Neutral pins and its earth terminal using the MegOhms range of your meter - obviously there should be no connection, i.e. very high or infinite resistance.
I'm about to change an immersion heater which reads about 17 Ohms Live to Neutral, but unfortunately reads about 10 Ohms Live to Earth. Circuit breaker, him go POP! :-(
Thanks mate, this helped me out big time :)
How can I identify what length element is fitted before removing it so as to buy a replacement before starting the job,
You still have the same immersion tools since this video all those years ago lol
They’ll never leave
What jointing compound did you use mate? It looks like the non-potable stuff?
Thank you buddy
thank you
Hi great easy to follow channel
I have just moved home to a house that has solar panels max output just over 3kw on a hot day
I’ve wired a timer switch on the standard 3kw immersion heater but thinking of changing it to a low power 1kw so can tap into the free power other than just mid summer .
Question is , with the cylinder thats 22years old . would it be worth the risk of possibility damaging it trying to replace the immersion heater on a cylinder that old .
Hi,
I have a E7 flat and when we turn on the water heater after a time, obviously its heating the water, the feed tank starts to bubble as if the water is boilers and the pipes from boiler start to bang. Once that happens we turn the boost off and all is fine. Would that be a faulty stat i.e. never turning off or?
Thanks in advance!
what compound are you using? had to do 2 of these on a combination cylinder, and like you said, cant fully tighten it without water inside or risk tearing cylinder open. only used fibre gasket and were there ages trying to tighten up the heaters with the spanner, ended up putting a bit of 15mm pipe over the handle for extra leverage...
My mate had a faulty Immersion heater. It had stuck on and was actually boiling the water! He only realized when the house was full of moisture! We all had a great brew though.
Very good, thank you so much, I could do it by my self =D
If I have one at the top, surely I dont need to drain the tank?
good job
How do you tell if it is the element that is knackered or the thermostat?
I have had to replace mine a few times , about every 5 years due to limescale,
Think you should fully remove the fuse when you switch it off at the junction box incase someone comes along and turns it on whilst you are working on it. apart from that it was very informative thanks
I sometimes heat up the immersion heater with a blow torch. it helps to remove it easily.
love the giant grips. niiiiiiice
+DJJimCowley Cheers dude!
Please sub >> ruclips.net/user/plumberparts
Can you help ? I need to replace the insert in my hot water Bath tap but I am struggling to isolate the hot water. Is it the RED valve on the piping to the front of the tank ? How long will it take to clear the hot water in the pipework ? THANKS !
Instead of fishing from the immersion hole. You can open the support washers slightly as it’s a split washer,Then you can put the thread on the anchor line, push it through the hole, then do a screw motion with the washer, then push the rubber washer through the hole. Bobs your uncle.. pull the thread out the hole...minimal chance of losing anything also use a tooth pick hook the metal ones from boots to pull the anchor hook back through the hole. It’s a 2 minute job
is this common in the UK to have electrical tanks ?? Is it convenient because of venting flue gases in certain applications or is it lack of gas.
Is draining the tank the same as stopping the supply but running the hotwater at the bath tap ? I have only one immersion fitted from the top , I assume I just need to drain the water about a third .
My immersion doesn't seem to be refilling afterwards any tips?
I have one immersion heater at the top of my hot tank, can you wire it directly to a Fused switch or do you need to connect it via fuse/MCB
What if it’s the top booster element
my Immersion Heater Cylinder use to go bang about every 18 months for some reason my Immersion Heater Cylinder as lasted 7 years,
Hi mate, I cant find copper slip that is WRAS approved, I don't like using anything that isn't. Where do you get it from?
when the drain valve doesn't drain, I turn off the supply to the cylinder, open the hot taps so the hot water is drained off to the top of the cylinder. Then loosen the nut at the top of the cylinder that joins the 22mm copper pipe to the cylinder(a small amount of water will run out). Then I pull the pipe out the way and syphon the water out of the cylinder with a hose pipe, the wc or bath is normally pretty close so I just shove the other end of the hose pipe down there.
Jimmy where is those grips you got on your amazon store? To undo the emmerssion?
change your anode more often and it will extend the life of the element
Do you have a video about replacing the whole of the tank? We are on economy 7 yet have a standard tank which A, we are unable to boost during the day and B, provides not enough hot water for the family. Many thanks!!
what kind of price would u say this would cost my old tank is just about done last guy fitted this and left it leaking it is now tripping the fuse has lasted a few years tried new thermostat just tripped again so it must be the element yes preferable woud be great to fit a new modern tank but not sure where to start
If you do it yourself, the immersion costs about £35 in most plumbers merchants. If you're going to pay a plumber, the whole job will cost about £135 or something....SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️if you haven't already!
What are those holes in that big spanner for mate?
Could you do a vid on testing the immersion with multimeter.
just happened to me, water does drain but very slowly, I trusted in the 15 minutes as he said:) I rushed a little without thinking that by this flow there is no way it could drain 150 liters:) since I am changing the top one I thought lets see lol, and all floor in water:) I managed to close the immersion heater back but Im stuck how to drain it now lol, I guess maybe unvented tanks are a bit different than what he does here, even though great video but floor in water, hmmm what is the next step
we just bought a new immersion but it says it needs to be wired to mains not like the old one which was on a plug , are they all like that?
Probs best to ask your electrician about it!
Hey, sister
I've just changed my thermostat as the water in my immersion tank started to bubble and boil one night but now I only seem to be getting 3/4's of the hot water I used to before it turns cold. I never changed anything just dropped in the new thermostat rod. Do you have any ideas why this could be, thanks.
+Rod Panhard Was the new rod the same length?
+plumberparts Thanks for answering, Yes, same length, I took the old thermostat with me to get a replacement, I was not sure if the fact the water in the tank boiled had anything to do with it. It happened in the middle of the night I could hear it boiling so I switched it off and replaced the thermostat which did cure it and I get hot water at the right temperature only now when running a bath the hot water goes cold quicker than it used to and I only get 3/4 of what I did before.
So what temp is the new thermostat set at now? Maybe the older thermostat was set at a higher temp?
Where is this guy ... i need him to come and change mine
DONT RUSH IT TAKE YOU TIME AND SHOW US EVERYTHING, ITS INTERSTING BUT U SKIP SOME PARTS NEAR TO THE END GO FULL IN DETAIL AND SHOW US EXACTLY WHAT YOU WOULD DO NEXT, GREAT JOB
Would you say about 10 raps of PTFE tape on the Immersion heater James?
Was the drain of for the tank or cylinder?
i have replaced my immersion heater and power going to it ok but this still is not working, anything i should be looking for??
Thermostat?
Hiya John...
I'm going to replace the immersion heater element in my hot water tank - the current model is a 11" Backer BS311C (I'm assuming the C stands for copper). I was wondering if a new Backer replacement will be wired slightly differently due to changes in regulations or even easier if I would be okay just picking up a new element from my local Screwfix just down the road (not sure of the quality of their generic elements)?
[Mark]
Just get an alloy element. I find they last longer. Wiring is usually the same. PP!
***** Many thanks...
Paul Cullen 👍
Excellent video, however, for a novice, you actually blocked the shot of testing the circuit with a multimeter to determine that the power was off, someone may meed to see that particular shot!
Hey John, quick Q: My bottom immersion heater doesn't seem to work but the top one does. It may be a wiring issue (new place I've moved in to). Is there any harm in me swapping the wiring around from the top one to the bottom one? I plan on installing a digital timer so having a full tank of hot is what I aim for. great post and channel BTW.
davide pascolo Bottom one is the night cheap electricity heat store. Top one is boost. Get an electrician in to do the work as it'll need a ticket to sign it off. Regards, PP!
***** Thanks John, I think I'm just going to replace the whole thing with a new one and follow your instructions on the video clip. I'll need to change kitchen taps soon after and fix a noisy flushing toilet, all of which I'm sure you cover in your great video's. Very much appreciated :)
nice vid but what do you do when some numpty hasn't fitted a gatevalve to isolate cold feed to the cylinder?
Then you're draining the whole tank out in the loft too, then cutting a valve in as part of the job! Good luck!
Sub here please>> ruclips.net/user/plumberparts
I was afraid you were going to say that,looks like there is nothing else for it, i will deffo add a gatevalve to shut the cylinder off shouldn't be to difficult. cheers
You should worry! What do you do when some numpty hasn't fitted a drain valve...? (cue hysterical laughter)
How did you know it was the bottom one that was faulty?
Measure the heat of the water when it comes out of the tap
I've just done one of these this weekend just gone and it was a right bitch of a job! Right from the start continuous issue after issue. Got it done and working perfectly in the end but I certainly don't wanna have to do that again in a hurry I can tell you.😂 but really great video though.👌👍
sapo Steve bell lad
But it's just changing the immersion heating element, not the vast tank!
@plumberparts No need I've done it ;-)
Hola... lol good video though
@Tabassam86 It's hot water mate, not potable, wouldn't fancy drinking cylinder water??!!.........Yuck!!!
But hey, whatever lights yer candle!
Hi james actually I am looking for part time job can you do for me favour please studying college ..?
Kazim Mohseni dude, we aren't taking anyone at this time! Sorry, PP!
It's fine thx..?
What is that tester thing called
At 1.06
+Sergio J Thats a Fluke electrical tester. PP!
you forgot to tighten it up!
You could of just changed the thermostat to save all that work ;-)
1:11 Da fuq ?!? 😂
@Tabassam86 Sorry mate you're quite right, it is classed as potable. You know what; that's the second time I've been wrong............in this life time!!
It amazing to think it was 2002 I did my Water By-laws, I think I need a refresher.........!!!
Hola! lol
Total overkill never use jointing compounds or ptfe tape as this is not necessary the fibre washer is all you need to to the job
You mustn't have fitted many they just love to leak. So theres a tiny drip you can tear the copper cylinder by over tightening or you can drain the whole thing down again and put on ptfe and boss white.
+john collins they leak with just the washer .. we been plumbing since the 50s
Done mine at home a good few times. Never once managed to get it leak free without the ptfe tape and joining compounds. There's a lot of pressure on them so they love to leak.
Agreed. I’ve changed a dozen with no leaks by just using the (new) fibre washer
These people who can’t get it to seal without all kinds of crap applied to it can’t be very good plumbers....
What if your old immersion is entombed with lime should i attempt to remove it?
+CashForQuestions Probs get a pro in mate!
Sub here please>> ruclips.net/user/plumberparts