Review/Teardown of an OWON CM2100B 20,000 Counts AC/DC Clamp Meter with Built-in Bluetooth
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- In this video, I reviewed a CM2100B 20,000 counts clamp meter from OWON. This clamp meter also supports Bluetooth and you can use it in conjunction with your smart phone for data logging. www.owonna.com/products_cm210...
00:00 Overview
03:25 DC voltage measurement
06:51 AC voltage measurement
07:37 Resistance measurement
09:37 Capacitance measurement
11:06 Diode mode, continuity
11:57 Frequency measurement
13:49 Current measurement
17:20 NCV test
18:15 Bluetooth connectivity
20:31 Power consumption
22:40 Teardown, conclusions 
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👍 first thing I'd do to the Owon is put a dab of white out or florescent paint into the knob position indicator well. Too many instrument makers skip this on their products. My 71 yo eyes notice this omission immediately.
Hola, yo compré esa pinza por ALIEXPRESS hace unos meses desde chile.... todo funcionaba perfecto , menos la funcion V.FC , cuando media corriente y la activaba , se caia demaciado la corriente, estaba mal esa función.... entonces me puse en contacto con OWON, les mande videos de la falla y constancia de la compra de ALIEXPRESS , y despues de varios correos me enviaron otra pinza por garantía, y ya vino sin falla en la función V.F.C .....por lo demas es excelente pinza, muy precisa en corrientes bajas. La recomiendo.
The selector knob on my ut210e popped it's clogs this week, I was about to order another one but first I came here to see if you had tested an alternative. After watching your review I bought the same Owon, I'm very pleased with it. Thanks for your great reviews & balanced opinions 👍
Impressive the DC current clamp accuracy !
Excellent demo. Thanks.
This is a detailed, well designed and well executed produce assessment and review!
@2:25 The range switch does clackity-clack on this unit. I have a similar meter which the range switch became tight and obstinate after light use. This UT210E could not be operated by one finger and eventually felt like something might break to turn it. I disassembled the unit for this reason only. I added dielectric grease to areas of the wheel components of the range switch where I could see rubbing wear. Also, cleaned off plastic wear particles and recoated the PCB traces that the spring contacts traverse. More lube was added the base of the springs because these springs are rough cut metal with burrs which scratch the plastic, causing plastic shaving to fall onto the PCB and potentially causing an open circuit. After reassembly, I found the range switch could be operated accurately with one finger and had a new smoothness. I liked the result so much I proceeded to apply this to all my "dry" sounding multimeters, new and old alike. One of the old ones had quite a bit of transfer from the 4-finger gear to the wavy shape of the case. In fact, one of those fingers was found broken, probably a result of the stress of high friction*. Most units had this type of "breakable" detent spring arms, and also very small locating posts that go into the PCB centering hole which also tend to break. Some of the better designs have dual-ball bearings that ride on waves on the case with compression springs keeping the tension, which I feel has a superior feel and durability. This greasing is good preventative maintenance, however somewhat risky due to the depth a person needs to go to in order to access the locations that need greased. What would help is more reviewers who tear down not only the PCB area, but also the range selector. This would give additional insight into the quality of the construction and whether or not the manufacturer had utilized grease at the factory (a few do). I now appreciate meters without a range switch more than before. Plus, I practice leaving the meter in the last used mode and letting automatic power off do it's thing, which avoids unnecessary range selections.
*The 4-finger gear, which looks like a 45 adapter for a turntable record player. As it is turned inside the case, the springs deflect and release into radial waves in the case. For each pair of spring arms, one has an "easy" time due to the kinematic friction angle, the other has a stressful journey, being driven into the trough of the wave. Which one is seeing the stress depends on the direction of rotation. By lubricating the interface between the components, the friction angle is significantly reduced, cutting down on the stress that the spring arms must endure, prolonging their life, especially as plastic ages and become more brittle. It's also especially important not to leave this type of range selector between modes, because the spring arms will have a constant load, causing deterioration of the spring action, or creep failure. This is where the ball bearings are superior, because the metal compression spring does not have this failure mode. However, the wheel will incur aging due to environmental factors such as UV radiation and ozone. This is why storing the meters in a case is the best way to treat them. Leaving them on a bench by the window would probably lead to early demise.
Another point of failure would be the plastic jaws. A very hefty return spring is often used and constantly loads the arms to keep them shut. Plastics cannot take a constant high load over time without risk of fracture at the bases of posts which support the springs. I would never store one of these with the jaws open, which I would not be surprised some people do as a way to hang them or keep them organized on the bench.
This is a really nice meter to use. I like the accuracy and different ranges. I was surprised to find it measured frequency up to 20 MHz. I did confirm 20 MHz with a 10 Vpp sine wave. It seems to need more than 8 Vpp for Measurements. Also testing 100 Amp circuit requires some large wire and a hefty current device.
Low amp DC current accuracy is amazing
I'm very happy.
I miss an Owon current clamp for oscilloscopes with direkt BNC plug. I had to get the Hanteck CC-65 for my Owon handheld oscilloscope. The CC-65 is, for me, the right choice since it can go up to 20 kHz, which is perfect for my usage to measure the actual current usage of devices. Heaters have perfect sinus on their amperage, while motors (fridge or fan) have a sawtooth. And quite some devices have a high startup current, which you cannot capture passively in another way.
quite nice, got the ut210b with modified eeprom for convenience features but this seems the new bang for the buck especially with bluetooth. does it create a CDC virtual com port where you can easily receive measurements in a terminal or does it only work with their software?
There is no COM-port. Communication follows its own protocol.
Huh, that's like an improved UT210E.
Frankly I don't even use a 'classic' multimeter anymore - this format is smaller, current measurements are super easy, there is an NCV, what not to like.
Nice review, well done. I have the OWON CM210E, which looks exactly the same, even the PCB inside, just no bluetooth module fitted. Seems the calibration in the DC range is slightly off, but still 100% in spec. Unfortunately i found no way to recalibrate. Overall good products with high value for the money.
That is tiny...
Reminds me of the ut0212E and the B-side clamp meter.
I dig it.,
Hi! How it stand against the Uni-T 210E ? Seems very similar in appearence
Have you looked at the MUSTOOL ST212? Just 6k count but 400A AC or DC. $30.
Please do a 100amp test. Where can we buy it in Europe?
Thank Q for informative video. Does the data points on the phone be saved and emailed to yourself. Can you open the file in excel?
Does it default to DC mode? My UTM meter is annoying in that it defaults to AC (also have to press a button for the continuity tester).
Another problem I have with a different UTM meter is the continuity tester is basically useless because of how slow it is. I'm done with UTM.
Has anyone found the temperature measurement function on this device?
Do you find (like I do) removing the REL resistance mode makes auto-ranging go faster as you switch to higher resistances or voltages? I am surprised the LED beside the display works in NCV mode but not in continuity. Usually, the beeper and LED are concurrently triggered by the same circuit. Thanks for evaluating the current draw at different wheel settings. It would also be interesting to select different settings within the wheel detent, or to turn on the backlight to see what that feature might draw.
I appreciate the trim pots for user calibration, but wonder why the silkscreen markings seldom show that the VR adjusts. When there are two or more, it's unclear what they do. Sometimes the second one does ACV, DCV (fine), and so on. Due to lack of documentation, It takes experimenting to determine what each pot does, leading to unnecessary erasure of the factory settings to identify the adjustment type. For me, this is one of those "right to repair" serviceability factors.
hello pault, i had it today. how to remove REL resistance mode? i need more faster
Is this just a UT210e in a redesigned case? Layout, size and specs seem remarkably similar as does the clamp head.
The UT210e only has 2,000 counts if I remembered correctly, this one is a 20,000 counts meter.
Correct, 210e is 2000 counts.
Anyways, I've just bought it on Ali since the price is half of the uni-t meters. Seems like a good deal.
@@KerryWongBlog Thanks for the update. I checked online earlier and somebody has a video where they convert a 210e to 10,000 counts but to stretch to 20,000 would require an extra digit on the LCD or to be more precise, a ¼ digit. Not watched the conversion video yet so I don't know if the 10k possibility is already onboard and just requires a strategically placed SMD cap, it apparently measures out to 100 amps now also.
Definitely worth a purchase for anyone who doesn't already have the 210, I bought 2 of them around 7 years ago when they could be had for around $25 a piece, they still perform perfectly to this day, my go to clamps for initial automotive, electrical and electronics diagnosis fault finding and sits in your pocket quite easily.
@@KerryWongBlog This is also only 2000 counts on 2A and 1000 counts in 100A range. Think about it. 20000 counts is on the other scales only. So beginners can be confused obout this marketing trick and buy it.
review the ut204+ , it is similarly priced to this meter and looks like an overall better quality than this. yes it has no bluetooth but it can measure upto 600amps.
with ut204+ you need at least 100mA to get a stable read of current... owon can read from 1-3mA. It's comparable to ut210e, no bluetooth though.
How can this meter be 20,000 count when the display is only 4 digits. Its 2,000. It would need a 5 digit display to be 20,000.
There's a 1 on the left that'll show up, so 1.9999. Look at 5:50 into his video when he shows 2 volts. I was wondering the same thing at first.
Nice video, I ended up ordering one just for the low amperage readings. Thanks
UNI-T ut210e in different colors?