Great video and nice job as always.. I'm wondering if it's not better to have a little extra material removed from the top of the t-nut( very little) Perfectly flush with the compound like this maybe will work, but i think is better to have some free space beetwen the bottom of the tool post and the top of the t-nut, so when tightening the nut there is enough force applied to the fresh compound plane to prevent the tool post from moving, especially with your heavy cuts. Look forward to the see the next phases
Hey Adam, You are my Saturday 3pm favorite divertissement for many years now. looking good for the future with all your projects. Keep on going. We will be there for you.
I am just glad to see you making chips again lol. I know you have a lot going on with the new shop so I understand. Love watching your shows. Abby great camera work.
You mentioned "climb cut" at 9:25, and I had no idea what that was until 9:40 when you showed it in slo-mo. At that instant a light bulb flashed in my mind and I figured out that a climb cut is where the cutting action of the mill is going the same direction as the travel. It is not as aggressive of a cut, and probably results in a smother finish as well. And no, I have never machined in my life, and probably never will, as much as I regret never taking shop class in high school 40-plus years ago! LOVE your videos, Adam!
Climb milling is tricky and can be dangerous since the cutter tries to “climb” over the work resulting in broken cutters and spoiled work especially if attempted on heavy cuts. Unless the machine has hydraulic backlash control it’s best to only use climb milling on light finishing cuts.
Great stuff Adam! You call it a T-nut, but if I understand its use it is really an insert to create a solid compound with multiple locations for the multifix.
Another good one Adam. Set screws are a nice touch to keep the t-nut from moving, BUT, I think you should take a few thou off the top of the nut to insure the ears on the compound are “sandwiched” in compression when the tool post bolt is tightened.
Great shot of that "funnel chip" forming on the side of the piece....love that aesthetic! I also like the striated finish that milling tool leaves on the piece
Seeing you tap those giant threads with authority! It's crazy watching and learning from a "garage diy" perspective. I've broken many cheap taps being gentle. Made in USA and doing it right is the way to go. Thanks, love the channel 👍👍
You make such good videos with different camera angles, good lighting, good sound, even have a silent partner camera operator for roving camera views. Also have very good sound for clear dialog. The editing is also well done and makes the story move along at the right pace. These videos should be shown in regional technical schools for machinists, that is, if those kind of schools still exist.
It is so much fun to see you restore this magnificent tool. I know that dead blow hammers were well known in 1970 because I worked in a GM factory that year and the Die Makers used them when they repaired my machine. They had a selection of lead, plastic, and leather, each kind in several weights. They had to be so careful of those dies, which were hugely expensive, and which bent parts with precision, particularly the hole punches. The point is that I have trouble conceiving a machinist hitting that compound with an actual hammer. How did they become skilled enough to operate the American Pacemaker lathe and yet they hit it with a hammer.
1018 steel? Never found a way to get a good looking finish on that stuff with a shellmill. Smooth? Yes. Looking good? Not. That tool post is a monster! 1/8" DOC and full radial? That machine got some power! Carbide rules bro!
I always enjoy your videos Adam, and this one is no exception. Thank you for all your informative, educational, and entertaining videos. And, please say HI, to Abby from me.
PeWe Tools multifix is just awesome, In the 1980s i had original multifix ..i now ave PeWe multifix on my new machines s every bit as good and afordable plus i can use my old original multifix holders
Your predecessors would be proud of you care and diligence, nice work. it's great to bring a great machine back to it's former days. You also add integrity to your craft.
Hey Abom, just wanted to say I love your videos and I can always learn something from them and apply it to my own job as a welder/fabricator. Love the content you put out here for us! Keep up the hard work! Also, loving the adventures channel too! You and Abby are great fun on the camera!
You are a true professional! You keep your shop really clean and also your machines and tools. Your machinist skill is outstanding. It´s a real pleasure to see you work!! Thank you Adam!
@@carld7580 cry more. You boys are so jealous that he doesn't need to be slaving away in his shop. I LOVE IT. Your so bad that you need to punch a time card while he gets to do whatever he wants. You're jealousy makes me so happy it's indescribable.
Magnet Protip for you. Cut a plastic screw top soda bottle and heat shrink it to your cutting oil can magnet. It will be easier to keep the chips off of the magnet.
I enjoy watching all your videos to the end. Even though, as you say, most people will never do this, there are always great tips and ideas that can be used on other projects. Keep up the great videos!
Nice work. I see something I'd like to integrate on my home brew tool post, to make it easier to use ... another thing to add to the (growing) list of small improvements.
Very nice machining work. Like others have said, the T-nut has to be slightly below the surface of the cross-slide otherwise the clamping foce is just between the nut and the toolpost.
That is the whole point. Multifix tool post is a German invention. European lathes do not have a t slot in the top slide, just a threaded hole in solid metal. Aloris style works fine with a big slot missing under it because it's a big square block. But if he mounted the multifix over that big slot, just the tips of the circular contact area probably only like 25% would actually be touching and most of the base would be touching nothing above the slot. The thing he made in this video is not really a t nut, more like a filler piece to adapt the American style top slide for a European style tool post to have enough contact area.
Hello Adam, again a very nice video. It is very important that the tap is thoroughly cleaned when tapping. I've already destroyed several threads. Otherwise, such a compensating feed is a nice thing. We have installed it on all our machines. However, for smaller threads we use collet chucks with a 4-point. It is more precise but also more dangerous. Greetings Paul
Love those fine pitch roughing or ripper cutters, I use them in 6 mm to 12 mm diameter, brilliant for smaller milling machines. Powder Metallurgy type are a great step up from HSS, not as rigid or liable to break as solid carbide. Great job as per usual Adam. Thanks for sharing.
From the title.... I was not really interested in watching this video....! But I did watch it... and it was one of your better videos...! I think the fact that is was a longer than normal, and not chopped into segments was good.... Keep up the good work!!!
Adam, would you explain for the RUclips world even for the hobbyist when to use coolant vs cutting oil vs nothing? I’m 64, retired and at the hobby level now but the principal doesn’t change. You are a very good teacher so for me I would very much like to get you input. Thanks and hi from Texas
You inspired me to get my 60" end mill out for the 930M. Cut speed is about 1.3 Ac per hour. John Deere is proud of that puppy, too. But you can sharpen the 3 inserts with a grinder. ;-).. Loved your video.
Is that an end mill, or a fly cutter, or a face mill. I would consider it more of a face mill or fly cutter. I've got one too, It's a 72". But the power unit is red, the tool is orange. ;-)
Glad see chips flying, we where kinda afraid you had forgotten with all the new stuff, also seen folks asking where you'd gotten money 💰 💰 to buy all new stuff, in our view, it's none of their business! You do what you do and sling chipss!!! That is why people watch, not the new toys & such, but for the content that brought us (and all your long time subscribers)!
As an engineer turned software engineer decades ago, I very much appreciate your precise honed methodology, your attention to detail and your thoroughness. You make beautifully engineered pieces. The summer I worked in a machine shop during a summer internship in college makes me appreciate just how skilled you are. On a different note, I have been enjoying your channel for a few years now and I would like to command you on your style: You let your technique, the tools and the materials speak for themselves.
I'm not sure I agree with the toolpost clamping method used here. Seems to me that the top of the nut should not contact the bottom of the tool post. There is only a few small pressure points locking this in position. IMO I think you should remove .010" off the top of the nut. But it is your lathe, you do you! Thanks for taking us along.
I agree. I believe Adam is concerned with rigidity. Removing the material as you suggest would actually increase clamping strength. Adam is essentially removing the T-nut and slot. Why?? It's his machine. Let's watch
As long as it's not sticking up above it shouldn't be a problem but saying that if it was me I'd be leaving clearance.. i just don't think there's really anything to be gained by making the t nut flush but i guess we'll find out soon enough.. i recently put a quick change tool post on my little lathe and i left clearance and rigidity certainly isn't a problem on that machine, the 1hp motor is overloaded long before rigidity is a problem.. my big lathe doesn't have a t slot and it's no more rigid than other lathes that size that do have a t slot
@29:00 I know exactly why it cut loose. You came at it a second time Adam and it started cutting from the top removing extra material. I'm a mechanic by trade and have a full 30" deep draw in my Snap-on box full of taps, die's, chasers and extractors. Unlike you I don't have the luxury of using big equipment as I operate in tight places. Over the years I have switched from taps to chasers because if I chased with taps they would just start cutting excess material. This is exactly what happened to you Adam.
I've had the spiral flute bind up a bit and it produced a loose hole. My theory is that when you torque the spiral flute the torque "un-spirals" it which causes it to grow in diameter and cut deeper threads. I guess "digging in" would be another way to put it. Either way the tap cuts deeper than it should.
Looking great. I like when you show the small detail steps like deburring the tapped holes, with nothing but live audio. There's always a sound that tells you it's cutting right or not. Great to hear someone performing a step, that knows what they are doing, so I know when I'm screwing it up. (ha!) Do you ever put anything in the set screw holes to keep them from building up crud over the years? I was thinking something oil based like a electricians putty that doesn't harden, or Permatex non-hardening #2 sealer.
Note: I am just learning machining in my retirement. Both my Dad and his father were journeymen tool and die makers. I am enjoying learning about machining in my retirement as a tribute to their skill, profession and memories. Correction to my next comment. "...use any downward force..." Thanks for your patience.
Thought maybe we would get a shaper video out of that. Last time you dialed in the shaper like that, it was perfect. Then you could do that finishing pass in 1 complete operation.
@@chickdenike5861 Wasn't thinking the milling machine, more the Cincinatti scraper that he used for machining the exhaust head with. (reciprocating not rotating)
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Your camera resolution is so good that when you get close to the work I get chips on my keyboard.
I hope you are wearing some safety goggles my friend.
You better make certain the chips are dry, you know how bad coolant is for a computer keyboard
You better make certain the chips are dry, you know how bad coolant is for a computer keyboard
Haha ...here too LOL 😂
My lap is wet. I got coolant leaking out of the charge port of my phone.
Another great video, but I just wanted to mention how the family photo at the end never fails to make me smile. I love it. Thanks.
Love you’re videos. Commercials are getting out of hand.
Today I learnt about 2 items I never knew existed. Triple fluted drill bits and go/no go thread gauges. Lovely work. Cheers!
Great video and nice job as always.. I'm wondering if it's not better to have a little extra material removed from the top of the t-nut( very little) Perfectly flush with the compound like this maybe will work, but i think is better to have some free space beetwen the bottom of the tool post and the top of the t-nut, so when tightening the nut there is enough force applied to the fresh compound plane to prevent the tool post from moving, especially with your heavy cuts.
Look forward to the see the next phases
I wonder if Adam spoke to the toolpost manufacturer re correct method of attaching toolpost to compound, before he machined this?
You are exactly right. This way the toolpost and T-nut will be clamped together and essentially only be held by the set screws.
Man that flexarm tapps like a beast.
I love watching how razor sharp your drills are.
Hey Adam, You are my Saturday 3pm favorite divertissement for many years now. looking good for the future with all your projects. Keep on going. We will be there for you.
I am just glad to see you making chips again lol.
I know you have a lot going on with the new shop so I understand.
Love watching your shows.
Abby great camera work.
Coming along nicely Adam. Really enjoy seeing the old Pacemaker being brought back to its splendor.
You mentioned "climb cut" at 9:25, and I had no idea what that was until 9:40 when you showed it in slo-mo. At that instant a light bulb flashed in my mind and I figured out that a climb cut is where the cutting action of the mill is going the same direction as the travel. It is not as aggressive of a cut, and probably results in a smother finish as well. And no, I have never machined in my life, and probably never will, as much as I regret never taking shop class in high school 40-plus years ago! LOVE your videos, Adam!
Climb milling is tricky and can be dangerous since the cutter tries to “climb” over the work resulting in broken cutters and spoiled work especially if attempted on heavy cuts. Unless the machine has hydraulic backlash control it’s best to only use climb milling on light finishing cuts.
Great stuff Adam! You call it a T-nut, but if I understand its use it is really an insert to create a solid compound with multiple locations for the multifix.
Can’t believe how far you have come since I first started watching you congratulations
Another good one Adam. Set screws are a nice touch to keep the t-nut from moving, BUT, I think you should take a few thou off the top of the nut to insure the ears on the compound are “sandwiched” in compression when the tool post bolt is tightened.
That's the manufacturer suggested procedure. I guess since they made the damn thing they probably know what they're talking about.
46:50
I think I remember this being addressed in a past sns.
Would have probably been a good shaper project too, but it was cool to watch the K&T get some screen time.
51min was good for me🤷🙂 I enjoy seeing all the details…..thank you Adam
That power tapping machine is nothing short of incredible!
Wow. That flex arm makes tapping look like child's play. Amazing machine! Respect from Texas
Great shot of that "funnel chip" forming on the side of the piece....love that aesthetic! I also like the striated finish that milling tool leaves on the piece
I'm always astounded by the wealth of knowledge your comment section has.
These videos are not only interesting to watch but highly informative if someone is planning to buy a used machine tool.
Seeing you tap those giant threads with authority! It's crazy watching and learning from a "garage diy" perspective. I've broken many cheap taps being gentle. Made in USA and doing it right is the way to go. Thanks, love the channel 👍👍
You make such good videos with different camera angles, good lighting, good sound, even have a silent partner camera operator for roving camera views. Also have very good sound for clear dialog. The editing is also well done and makes the story move along at the right pace. These videos should be shown in regional technical schools for machinists, that is, if those kind of schools still exist.
Fairly obvious that this build is "precision" and has to be done just right. Good design and a great looking tool holder IMO.
I love this content Adam. It's a pleasure watching you work. Thanks for having us in your shop.
You're a hell of a machinist, Adam.
I have used Cleveland drills and taps for over 40 years and do like them.
Boy, do I love it when you make stuff. Keep going sir.
Great work. That Multifix is huge.
Steve.
I can see that you are going to have to get another Flex Arm for the new shop. Once you one of those you never go back!
That is one hella honkin' MultiFix holder! Looks great on that cross slide. Can't wait to see her makin' chips!
All your proper tools for the job. well done Adam
It is so much fun to see you restore this magnificent tool. I know that dead blow hammers were well known in 1970 because I worked in a GM factory that year and the Die Makers used them when they repaired my machine. They had a selection of lead, plastic, and leather, each kind in several weights. They had to be so careful of those dies, which were hugely expensive, and which bent parts with precision, particularly the hole punches. The point is that I have trouble conceiving a machinist hitting that compound with an actual hammer. How did they become skilled enough to operate the American Pacemaker lathe and yet they hit it with a hammer.
I ended up making my t nut with a hacksaw and a file not as good of a fit as yours but it works!
Some epic metal mowing! Like the curly chips on the side!
you do such a great job Abom79, thank you for sharing 🙂
I appreciate the care you take in showing these process steps. I have used your videos as a guide for some of my rebuilding tasks. Thanks!
1018 steel? Never found a way to get a good looking finish on that stuff with a shellmill. Smooth? Yes. Looking good? Not. That tool post is a monster! 1/8" DOC and full radial? That machine got some power! Carbide rules bro!
I always enjoy your videos Adam, and this one is no exception. Thank you for all your informative, educational, and entertaining videos. And, please say HI, to Abby from me.
Hello James 👋🏻
awesome episode, as usual, love how you show the change of plans and when things go right and wrong, cheers!
Man that flex arm has some torque!!
PeWe Tools multifix is just awesome, In the 1980s i had original multifix ..i now ave PeWe multifix on my new machines s every bit as good and afordable plus i can use my old original multifix holders
Your predecessors would be proud of you care and diligence, nice work. it's great to bring a great machine back to it's former days. You also add integrity to your craft.
That one chip on the near side of the bottom pass could very well be chip of the month.
Hey Abom, just wanted to say I love your videos and I can always learn something from them and apply it to my own job as a welder/fabricator. Love the content you put out here for us! Keep up the hard work! Also, loving the adventures channel too! You and Abby are great fun on the camera!
Excellent as usual. It's amazing what you can do with the right tools!
Good work Adam. I look forward to the post bolt and lead screw videos!
You are a true professional! You keep your shop really clean and also your machines and tools. Your machinist skill is outstanding. It´s a real pleasure to see you work!! Thank you Adam!
Easy to keep things clean when they're not being used 🤣
@@carld7580 cry more. You boys are so jealous that he doesn't need to be slaving away in his shop. I LOVE IT. Your so bad that you need to punch a time card while he gets to do whatever he wants. You're jealousy makes me so happy it's indescribable.
that flexarm continues to amaze.
Magnet Protip for you. Cut a plastic screw top soda bottle and heat shrink it to your cutting oil can magnet. It will be easier to keep the chips off of the magnet.
I enjoy watching all your videos to the end. Even though, as you say, most people will never do this, there are always great tips and ideas that can be used on other projects. Keep up the great videos!
Nice work. I see something I'd like to integrate on my home brew tool post, to make it easier to use ... another thing to add to the (growing) list of small improvements.
Your amazing you make it appear to be so easy ,thanks for sharing the story.
Enjoying it here in Minnesota...
that flex arm has some torque!
Man the shot of the grind on that special drill bit. Incredible work (all of it)
Very nice machining work. Like others have said, the T-nut has to be slightly below the surface of the cross-slide otherwise the clamping foce is just between the nut and the toolpost.
That is the whole point. Multifix tool post is a German invention. European lathes do not have a t slot in the top slide, just a threaded hole in solid metal. Aloris style works fine with a big slot missing under it because it's a big square block. But if he mounted the multifix over that big slot, just the tips of the circular contact area probably only like 25% would actually be touching and most of the base would be touching nothing above the slot. The thing he made in this video is not really a t nut, more like a filler piece to adapt the American style top slide for a European style tool post to have enough contact area.
ADAM, LOOKS GREAT, GREAT VIDEO...
That big cutter is hard core. Gets it dun.
Beautiful workmanship Adam pleasure to watch .
Hello Adam, again a very nice video. It is very important that the tap is thoroughly cleaned when tapping. I've already destroyed several threads. Otherwise, such a compensating feed is a nice thing. We have installed it on all our machines. However, for smaller threads we use collet chucks with a 4-point. It is more precise but also more dangerous. Greetings Paul
Love those fine pitch roughing or ripper cutters, I use them in 6 mm to 12 mm diameter, brilliant for smaller milling machines. Powder Metallurgy type are a great step up from HSS, not as rigid or liable to break as solid carbide.
Great job as per usual Adam.
Thanks for sharing.
Right-on Adam! Getting there!
Great project - looking forward to the next steps...
I suggest you mark (stamp?) the ends of the T-Nut, I=inside and O=outside so that it is re-inserted the same way each time .
I keep saying it, Adam you're a master crafter with all metals and machines 👍🏻... greetings to Abby from us...
From the title.... I was not really interested in watching this video....! But I did watch it... and it was one of your better videos...! I think the fact that is was a longer than normal, and not chopped into segments was good.... Keep up the good work!!!
Awesome machinning there, enjoyed the clip and looking forward to the whole rebuild. Thanks for posting.
Nice looking t-nut thanks for sharing
Adam, would you explain for the RUclips world even for the hobbyist when to use coolant vs cutting oil vs nothing? I’m 64, retired and at the hobby level now but the principal doesn’t change. You are a very good teacher so for me I would very much like to get you input. Thanks and hi from Texas
Nice job Adam as usual, also kudos for the camera work by Abby
That band saw gives an amazing finish
Looks great Adam, going to work really nice when all done, thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
You inspired me to get my 60" end mill out for the 930M. Cut speed is about 1.3 Ac per hour. John Deere is proud of that puppy, too. But you can sharpen the 3 inserts with a grinder. ;-).. Loved your video.
Is that an end mill, or a fly cutter, or a face mill. I would consider it more of a face mill or fly cutter. I've got one too, It's a 72". But the power unit is red, the tool is orange. ;-)
Yep, probably a fly cutter. Good catch, thanks.
Glad see chips flying, we where kinda afraid you had forgotten with all the new stuff, also seen folks asking where you'd gotten money 💰 💰 to buy all new stuff, in our view, it's none of their business! You do what you do and sling chipss!!! That is why people watch, not the new toys & such, but for the content that brought us (and all your long time subscribers)!
Great Video, informative, and enjoyable to watch. Now i wish i actually had a lathe.
That is one beefy toolpost. Looks ridiculously oversized on the mill. Looking forward to seeing it in action on the Pacemaker.
Love the machining videos; looking forward to the next one.
As an engineer turned software engineer decades ago, I very much appreciate your precise honed methodology, your attention to detail and your thoroughness. You make beautifully engineered pieces. The summer I worked in a machine shop during a summer internship in college makes me appreciate just how skilled you are.
On a different note, I have been enjoying your channel for a few years now and I would like to command you on your style: You let your technique, the tools and the materials speak for themselves.
Great video Adam! Love your shop and all those marvelous tools!
That Really nice paw paw 🐾 when all put together.... looks awesome also.....
The only thing I know about shapers is what you showed me. I expected some shaper work on this. It all looks good to me. Thanks for the videos
looking forward to the rest of your series on this! 👍👍👊👊
👍👍👏👏👍👍 Thanks for sharing Adam, have a nice weekend
Always enjoy watching your content, Adam. Thank you!
That face mill at 40:00 is a BEAST. Wow
I like that you left the in the part of what happened with the threading issue.. Most people should have edited that out.. 💪🏼🙌🏼
Great job 👍 Adam
What can anyone say…. You are the Master!
I'm not sure I agree with the toolpost clamping method used here. Seems to me that the top of the nut should not contact the bottom of the tool post. There is only a few small pressure points locking this in position. IMO I think you should remove .010" off the top of the nut.
But it is your lathe, you do you!
Thanks for taking us along.
My thoughts exactly
@@rroberts383 A few comments along these lines. I hope he takes notice and reclarifies.
I wonder if Adam spoke to the toolpost manufacturer re correct method of attaching toolpost to compound, before he machined this?
I agree. I believe Adam is concerned with rigidity. Removing the material as you suggest would actually increase clamping strength. Adam is essentially removing the T-nut and slot. Why?? It's his machine. Let's watch
As long as it's not sticking up above it shouldn't be a problem but saying that if it was me I'd be leaving clearance.. i just don't think there's really anything to be gained by making the t nut flush but i guess we'll find out soon enough.. i recently put a quick change tool post on my little lathe and i left clearance and rigidity certainly isn't a problem on that machine, the 1hp motor is overloaded long before rigidity is a problem.. my big lathe doesn't have a t slot and it's no more rigid than other lathes that size that do have a t slot
Nice job. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
@29:00 I know exactly why it cut loose. You came at it a second time Adam and it started cutting from the top removing extra material. I'm a mechanic by trade and have a full 30" deep draw in my Snap-on box full of taps, die's, chasers and extractors. Unlike you I don't have the luxury of using big equipment as I operate in tight places. Over the years I have switched from taps to chasers because if I chased with taps they would just start cutting excess material. This is exactly what happened to you Adam.
I've had the spiral flute bind up a bit and it produced a loose hole. My theory is that when you torque the spiral flute the torque "un-spirals" it which causes it to grow in diameter and cut deeper threads. I guess "digging in" would be another way to put it. Either way the tap cuts deeper than it should.
2:18 interesting the contra rotation deception of the mill cutting.
12:49 a nice slip-the-dictome.
Wow that tap is awesome.
Great work Adam! I am enjoying this rebuild. Thanks for all the great videos
Aint no flex like an abom flex.
Looking great. I like when you show the small detail steps like deburring the tapped holes, with nothing but live audio. There's always a sound that tells you it's cutting right or not. Great to hear someone performing a step, that knows what they are doing, so I know when I'm screwing it up. (ha!)
Do you ever put anything in the set screw holes to keep them from building up crud over the years? I was thinking something oil based like a electricians putty that doesn't harden, or Permatex non-hardening #2 sealer.
Note: I am just learning machining in my retirement. Both my Dad and his father were journeymen tool and die makers. I am enjoying learning about machining in my retirement as a tribute to their skill, profession and memories.
Correction to my next comment.
"...use any downward force..."
Thanks for your patience.
Thought maybe we would get a shaper video out of that. Last time you dialed in the shaper like that, it was perfect. Then you could do that finishing pass in 1 complete operation.
All of those new Tungaloy cutters require extensive camera time and they do not work on the shaper!
@@chickdenike5861 Wasn't thinking the milling machine, more the Cincinatti scraper that he used for machining the exhaust head with. (reciprocating not rotating)
Great work as always!