Part 1 of 2 - Chevy Cruze - Bad Head Gasket - How to remove and replace.
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Today I will be removing the cylinder head on this 2014 Chevy Cruze with the 1.4 Liter Turbocharged 4 Cylinder. This can serve as a complete guide, as I will show you every step of the way.
Important - if you're this far in, have the cylinder head hydrotested. This particular vehicle was burning coolant and all signs pointed to the head gasket. In the end, the cylinder head itself was cracked on the exhaust side of cylinder 1 which was causing the issue.
If you feel that I earned it, I'd greatly appreciate a thumbs up! Also, please consider subscribing!
Watch for Part 2 of 2 which will cover re-assembly, and thank you so much for watching!
Link to the timing tool:
www.amazon.com...
Now for the fine print:
Disclaimer - this video is for entertainment and informational purposes only. Do not attempt. Attempts to recreate, reproduce, or replicate anything seen in this video is done at your own risk. As with any product, it should only be serviced by the manufacturer or a licensed professional. Tampering with your product may void your warranty. Video owner shall not be held responsible if you void your warranty. The video owner will not be liable for any damage or injury incurred by anyone to anything while trying follow the steps in this video. Any and all liability to any part for any direct, indirect, implied, punitive, special, incidental, or consequential damages arising directly or indirectly from any use of the video content is hereby disclaimed. No guarantees or warranties are either implied or expressed that you will have the same results as shown in this video.
I'm a professional mechanic with over 25 years experience. This guy is really good at preparing mating surfaces in this video, looks like a pro. When I started this video I wanted to see if he was gonna check with a straight edge. MLS gaskets don't fail unless they're rusted thru(which I've seen like once or twice) it's ALWAYS the head, either warped or cracked. When I started fixing cars in the 90s we did head gasket jobs all the time with no worries but this ain't the 80s- 90s engines we're working on now. Nobody does head gaskets anymore without replacing the head. Ya might gamble and win but they're lottery odds you're up against.
I'm glad to hear that I appear to be a pro! haha I agree, warped head is the typical cause of these head gasket failures. Of course, in my case, it was a warped AND cracked head. Lucky me! Thanks for watching, the compliments, and for sharing your experience!
@@3DayWeekend I’m going through a similar issue. This is a new to me car 200k miles….. everything has worked perfect on this car. I was beginning to think I got a lucky Cruze. I was checking my oil and coolant before going on a long drive. After about 50 miles my dash said engine over heating and it also killed my A/C, I pulled over popped my hood, realized I never did put my coolant cap back on. I felt so dumb, Coolant was shooting everywhere. The reservoir was bubbling. The car had a rough idol. I let it cool down for about 30-40 minutes, refilled the reservoir again rough idol at start but drove fine. At nearest gas station it was blowing excessive white smoke out of exhaust. Checked the oil and there was no coolant in the oil. I ended up turning around and I had to pull over three or four times adding water because it kept overheating, the water was not necessarily going anywhere, but the reservoir was so hot and full of pressure it overheated, the following morning I bled the radiator getting all of the air out. starting the car and it was having issues starting. finally got started, idle fine, still white smoke, checked oil and boom! I believe coolant/and water has mixed with the oil. I went to the store again, having issues starting so I parked it in my driveway and trying to figure out what the problem is. I believe it’s a head gasket, but not 100%.
@@ericsanchez7789 White smoke means water is getting into the combustion chamber, so that's not a good symptom. It is likely a bad head gasket, and quite possibly a cracked cylinder head. These engines have weak head gaskets and cylinder heads. One overheat is enough to ruin a head gasket and crack a cylinder head. If I were in your position, I would just pull the head now and have it hydrotested and decked by your local machine shop, then put it back together again. Sorry for the bad news.
@@ericsanchez7789Just get a new car. These pos are not worth the time
I'm a 61 (almost 62) year old mechanic considering retirement. One reason is the complexity of today's engines and the hand dexterity needed to work on them.
I hope people considering tackling this job read your comment on here because you are so correct. That's why many cost estimate web sights vary the price from $1500 to $2600 hundred for this job. Not to mention the fact that often when you get into it you discover that all the timing and chain components may need replacement too! The last one I did the owner didn't want to spend $ for a new head so he brought me a "good" used one which failed less then a year later. I was willing to work with him if he would go with new head but he opted to sell the car instead. Live n learn.
My purpose of watching was 2 fold, obviously, to see how it's done, but , just more importantly, SO I DON'T HAVE TO DO IT TWICE! Thanks for all you do.
Glad it helped and thank you for watching!
@@edsullivan7288 put the camshaft indexer key in before you remove the head and stick a piece of tape there so you won't have to retime it after assembly.
@doomVoxel thank you for the help
When you add the part of experience at the end where everything is looking good but take it to the machine shop to get it checked is pure GOLD thank you for the insight and also sharing the option was genius level.
Life experience kicking in for the win right there! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend hello there
can you please tell me what kind of machine shop can check this type of measurement
thank you also for great video you got new subs 😀
@@gshotboss835 Hi! Typically if you search for an "engine machine shop", you'll probably find one near you. If not, call those search results up and ask them, and they can probably refer you to one. If your local Napa is anything like mine, you could run down there and speak to those guys, and they will know of one. Whoever you talk to, just tell them you need a cylinder head hydrotested and decked. They will know what you're talking about! Hope that helps!
@@3DayWeekend thank you so much for your replay and ur time
god bless you and ur famliy thanks again ☺
Nicely done sir
There are folks like me who appreciate what you did here.
Much effort and I am truly grateful
Thank you!
Chris, I just wanted to drop note to thank you for this very detailed video. Your enthusiasm, time lapses, and tips made the job accessible. I had been dealing with overheating for some time and after replacing a few other components a local mechanic diagnosed the blown head gasket. No one in my area was interested in taking on this project and those who offered did not come with very good references, so I thought I would try to take this on myself. As others have noted below, taking the head to a machinist was the perfect recommendation and saved me a bunch of time and money. I am now ~6 months into the replacement and haven't had any issues *fingers crossed*. In total it probably took me about 40 hours of work and has now empowered me to tackle other projects that I didn't ever think I could fix. I will be following Chris and using his videos more in the future. Thanks!
One note, I stripped the T55 plug where you insert the pin to keep the cam shaft set and creates slack in the timing chain. That was almost the death of me, take your time when removing bolts that have not been removed since day 1.
Thanks, Justin! I am thrilled that the video helped and that you were able to get back on the road! That plug can be a pain to get out and like to strip out with little warning. Fortunately they have a little lip on them so you can get vice grips locked onto it and can turn it out that way. Thanks again for your words of encouragement. They mean a lot to me!
WOW Buddy sorry you had to do this multiple times. Thank you so much for saying the sizes of the bolts and things AND for telling us what each part you were taking off as well THAT thoughtfulness is why your video is highly regarded by me to anyone who ever has to do this job THANK YOU for making it and sharing it lol it’s me and you for a couple days lol pause/play-pause/play
Glad I could help. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the details,its a big help.
Looking at helping a buddy replace the head on his son's 1.4l Turbo Cruze. Those 2 part series has become my homework.
Good luck to you, sir! I'll cross my fingers that the head is OK and it just needs a gasket.
@@3DayWeekend The head has a hole in it so it's not ok. We did the valve cover and gasket trying to chase down the leak. Thought it was the PCV regulator and while that was bad...it's not the only thing wrong.
@@HannibalACP82 those cheap crap plastic thermostat housings have flimsy tabs inside that can break and jam the thermostat closed. they make an aluminum aftermarket thermostat. that factory thermostat was what blew my cruze.
you may also want to go with an aluminum valve cover that has a serviceable pcv.
A big thanks from me. My daughters shitbox Holden cruze over the past year has blown a heater hose, jammed the thermostat closed, and popped the coolant line to the turbo. So 3 good overheats, but she insisted on driving it the rest of the way home on the last one and blew the gasket as well as warping the head.
Its taken me many 3 day weekends to get all the parts and specialist tools in and get it back on the road, but you saved me a fortune by showing how the timing is set. A better detail of the wheels on the end of the cam shaft would have been handy, I got a exhaust timing code, as I thought it was correct as it fitted the guide, but was out about 60 degrees and still fitted.
Glad it helped! Yes, I've set a cam out of time before, but once everything was tightened down I turned it by hand to double check the timing and found that the timing set didn't quite fit in there just right. Turns out it fits in one of the notches, but not perfectly. Spun it around a bit and it fit right in. Thanks for watching!
GREAT video ! Thank you so much !! I've got to fix my Chevy truck first (2 vehicles, BOTH down ...ughhh ) so it can be mobile for a parts/tools chaser. LOL ! So goes life. Really appreciate the timer and info you shared with us. VERY much appreciated ! I'm '70 years old on SS, a former jet engine mechanic and classic car restorer. At todays prices on labor and parts, I've decided to dust off the ole SNAP-ONS and GIT-ER-DUN !! I still enjoy swinging a wrench but my BACK disagrees with it being fun .... lol. Haven't done much wrenchin' for a while but HERE WE GO !! Thanks for a very informative video !
A simple "thanks" would have been enough.... the rest of your story is pointless and not needed. *yawn*
You're welcome. Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project!
@@moshesheckel7369 don't like my story little liberal ?? Just move on. Nobody needs your 2 cents worth of lousy attitude Karen ....
TIP: Push the metal clips on the injectors IN (not out) and carefully pull up on the connector. Those pins are NOT MEANT to be pulled out.
You're right, and I've been called out on that one a few times! haha I had just finished another vehicle with the pull kind and it didn't click with me until I put it back together that I could just push them in instead! Good tip. Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend Dont feel bad i used to remove them the same way.
Same. One of those clips is still stuck somewhere around the exhaust flange (fell IN BETWEEN the two pieces. Like, a 1 in 100,000,000 chance). To this day, a paperclip has held it on snug. So yeah, push them in. Don't try to take them off.
What this world be without people like you???
hello I have a question for you on my 2015 Chevy Cruze Lt 1.4 tubro engine I can't figure out whats going on my scan tool shows multiple codes Po303 ,po36 , and some thing to do with mass air flow sensor. I have replaced spark plugs and coil pack,new negative cable. Plus on the dashboard it says service stabilizer and traction control. my Mass air flow sensor I bought OEm Bosch I can't believe it is gone already I'm at a loss tried of putting money in to it but only thing I have to get me to my doctors appointments. But now I have to depend on rides ugh any help would be appreciated ty
I might be looking down the barrel of this repair job on my 2011 and I'm absolutely terrified.
Best of luck to you! Don't rush it, follow the procedure and you'll be just fine!
Same with my 2011. How did it go???
I’m doing it now and once u take all the small stuff off like the valve cover all the wire harness it get pretty easy
How did it go?
@@ronaldwilliams4053😅
followed the video to the T and was able to fix wife's car. Shop wanted 3-5k for the job on a car worth about 4k. Did it myself car is running fine and spent maybe $800 on tools and stuff i ended out purchasing (including rebuilt heads). thanks for this info!!!
You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful and that it saved you so much money!
Glad you made this video . There is no way id be able to do this myself ( lack of tools and space ) just gonna sell it 😑
Thanks for watching! Sorry to hear you had to throw in the towel.
I agree, theres a Ton of special tools required. I just did the turbo job this weekend. It's not that complicated but its designed such that you need a tools you want have, especially for a DIY person, I love taking challenges but if my 2011 Opel Astra 1.4 turbo, needs a head or cylinder work, I will junk it period.
Hello I'm having issues with my 2015 chevy cruze 1.4 TUBRO I have replaced water pump , thermostat and water coolant outlet. No check engine light ever but it skips like crazy one of my coolant hoses doesn't like it is flowing coolant threw it it's the one that goes from water pump to the radiator on the passenger side of the car any help would be appreciated ty
@Pat Caron same, I just put tons of money into upgrades for my car thinking it had plenty of life left in it and now my head gasket sprung a leak :( 200$ part, 1200$ job
@@RandoManFPV $30 + $50 parts. $60 specialty tools counting the timing tool plus random torx sockets you may need (assuming you have basic tools and a tourqe wrench) its a $140-$150 job and 2 days of your time, most spent waiting for the tool and parts to come in.
Greatly appreciated, thanks for this video, im going to approach this project by myself with my new found confidence, and im only 14 minutes in.
Glad it was helpful!
How is the repair going, I'm thinking of trying it myself also
@@dmorton80 let's just say, there is always a screw somewhere waiting. If you're talking to me.
Yeah I was, did you finish the repair?
@@dmorton80 no, between my day job and doing a little bit each night.
Excellent work on this repair. Your attention to detail is exactly what I look for when facing , in my opinion, an above average DIY engine repair especially on 2000 and up Chevy and Chrysler engines. These type of repairs always fall into my lap and can be frustrating at times. Once again many thanks to you as I was able to complete the same repair with no issues. I am a subscriber now to your channel and look forward to watching more of your repair videos......
Thank you very much! I'm happy that you found it helpful! Thanks for the sub!
This engine is much better than earlier version. Put compressed aluminium composite doesn't like heat. I am just just starting on replacement of head gasket and looking at your video to learn all bolt locations and how to lock timing chain. Thanks for your honesty. I have always leaked for cracks unless no testing equipment available. At least easy clean up 2 time.
Great video, it was nice how you explained each step and then did the Timelapse
Glad you liked it. Thanks!
im working on same issue....these little 4 banger engines with a turbo are high compression and need high octane gas. compression check showed 185-200, the knock sensor was out on the engine and caused the head to crack. thanx for showing everyway to remove the head, id leave the intake on.
Yes, I've done a few and left the intake on. Definitely easier and faster that way. Plenty of room with it in there. Hopefully you were able to find a replacement head without spending a fortune! Thanks for watching and for the comment! Glad the video was helpful.
You can have good compression and still have a cracked head, the knock sensor doesn't crack the head, your sensor could be ok but if you have too much slack in the timing chain that throws the knock sensor code. these engines are made for 87 octane.
In the middle of this job right now… thanks for the video! Wish me luck people
Best of luck!
Very well done - using your videos I was able to replace my head gasket
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
I sure hope you are married. The things this man can do with one hand is very impressive.
Great work man, seriously. Very meticulous, and yet straight to the point. Sub from me for sure.
Thank you very much! I appreciate the compliments and the sub!
Thanks! Got my Cruze back on the road thanks to your videos.
That is awesome! I'm glad the video helped. Thank you so much for your support!!
Just changed my head gasket this past 2 weeks, your videos helped a lot. Thanks Man
I'm happy it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for making this video series. I was able to follow along and save myself thousands of dollars and learned a lot along the way. I can't thank you enough for this.
You are so welcome! Glad it helped you out! Thanks for watching.
Very well explained,and you makes it looks easy to do it ,and I am going to try,thanks!
Thank you! Best of luck to you!
Señor, not all people shows every procedure 👍🏼 you are one of a kind 👍🏼 thanks 4 your video 4 sure u have 5⭐️ THANKS A LOT and 4 sure a new SUBSCRIBER
Thank you! I'm glad it helped. Welcome to the channel!
The fuel injector electrical plugs held by the metal clips? You can push those inward and they will release. This way you can avoid potentially losing the clip itself.
Yes, that is correct. I mostly work on MOPAR and didn't recognize them as the push-style when I was working on this one. My bad! Thanks for keeping me honest!
Great help in removing the heads, now to check it and reinstall with a new gasket.
Glad it helped! Hopefully you're back on the road in no time!
@@N4594C i hate when people throw away perfectly good cars over something as minor as a head gasket
I am a 55 yr old female about to attempt to take this on because I can not find a mechanic willing to do this! I will be using your video so wish ne luck!
Best of luck to you! Hopefully you'll have it up and running in no time!
I'll do it, for some hanky panky in return! 😁
How did it go?
@@user-xw4hn7lb3x eww
Thank you! Following step by step as I'm doing my car. Invaluable info. I'm following your install video next!
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
2017 chevy trax, just noticed traces of coolant in the combustion chamber. No overheating or milkshake. Found it today while fixing the typical pcv issue. More time then i wanted to use this weekend but hopefully nothing is warped/cracked.
Oh boy. Well, hopefully you made out well and it's ok now! Hope the video helped. Thanks for watching!
I made it out just fine she runs better then ever! Appreciate your video alot! The head was a bear to get into perfect position to slide back on, had to warranty the gasket because i accidentally kinked it up under the head but everything worked out! @@3DayWeekend
@@3DayWeekendIm baaack, timing cover gasket didnt hold. Looks like we pinched the headgasket again! Not risking it, redoing the headgasket again, this time with the timing cover off so should be way easier, i think i can leave the phasers on this time because no timing chain. Timing cover is already off just have to remove the intake manifold and the turbski.
Wonderful good job - not easy to record while working - - Thank you for the hard work made life easy 😀 😊
Glad it was helpful!
I have a 2014 Holden Cruze 1.4L turbo that has broken one of the exhaust valves in cylinder No.3, of course the head will have to come off to replace it, did a search on how to remove the head and saw your video, doesn't look as difficult as I thought it would be, although I wouldn't tackle the job myself as I don't have the tools, or the experience, after getting a quote from a mechanic to do it, I'm debating weather it's worth fixing and just getting another car.
I haven't run across a broken valve in one of these yet, so that is interesting. But yeah, the head will have to come off. Definitely a hard choice ahead of you. Best of luck! Thanks for watching!
Sorry to hear about the first head having a leak and it made me have mine tested and yes i found out only the valves have to be down. You almost think i could make something to test it and save money.
That would be great! I've had take so many down to the machine shop, it would make sense to buy a tester from you! Thanks for watching!
Had to rotate my 180 to get chain tensioner installed. The slack on the chain was on the fire wall side. Pulled bottom pin rotated 180 reinstalled bottom pin. Pulled on wrench and valve pin went right in and slack was now on top of the chain. My #1 cylinder is now top dead center. i.e. the 2 outside cylinders on the motor.
Perfect! Great pointer. Thanks for sharing!
I have the same car. Started with filling the gas tank it would click alot and then turn over, but it would want to stall. Even at stop lights. Then one day the turbo area would rattle loud like a diesel truck and like to bog down. Jumping, shaking. Then I noticed my oil and coolant dropped down low. Overheated once. Kept getting MAP codes, Turbo underboost, Intake Air Flow performance, EVAP, and system too lean. Now it's slow to accelerate and louder. Spark plugs went again. No exhaust smoke though. No leaks besides watery leaks underneath Water Pump/Turbo area and Muffler. I pulled the Cat off and checked the honeycomb looked fine nothin unordinary. I did notice the Pcv Valve cover was causing gusts of air when I pulled out the dip stick so I need to replace that and maybe the Purge Canister Valve. I also noticed some build up in the Air Intake Manifolds check valve idk whether it ate it or it's just plastered oil residue all over it. Any thoughts?
That... is a lot. Based on the codes, my novice troubleshooting is telling me that you might have an air leak in your intake. I'd look at the charge pipe, check all of your hose connections, as well as your intercooler. That's where I would start, but it sounds like you have multiple issues all piling up on you. Unfortunately with these engines, one overheat could be enough to warp the head and throw the head gasket so you may have that job waiting for you in the future. I'd start with the MAP/underbooost/air flow/lean codes. Those are all pointing to an air leak on the intake side. Good luck to you!
Over a thousand likes 1.4l Cruz must be a problem child good job on video
Definitely a common failure. I've had to do more than one. If you're lucky it's just the head gasket. If you're unlucky, it's a cracked head. I figure it all depends on how hot it got when the gasket failed.
Excellently explained a lot of spots skipped and still clueless
Thanks for watching! Definitely not an easy job.
I just had same thing happen replaced head gasket then put all back together and still antifreeze in cylinder so now I need a head
D'oh! I have been down that road before. This one had a crack in the exhaust side between cylinders 1 and 2.
Man that totally sucks glad I'm retired don't have to suffer with do overs anymore
Edit: you do not remove clips from fuel injectors, simply push them toward the injector connector and then pull connector up and off, connector will pull off injector and this way you will not loss clips.
Absolutely true, and I realized that on the next intake job I did! I misidentified it as a style clip another manufacturer uses which must be completely removed before it will release. Thanks for pointing that out!
Nice thanks
Thanks my friend it's good to see the road ahead of you clearly 😊 👍🏾
Agreed. Thanks for watching!
Thank you a lot for sharing this great video. A complete repair job. Well done.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
The fuel injector clips, u just press on the clips and unplug. Pulling the clips out a lil will cause the clips to fall.
Yes, you are correct. I had mistook them for a different style. Good catch!
This is such a great video thanks for the steps on how to do it
Glad it was helpful!
All nice ones you guys get. I keep looking at the website.
That's the goal! Thanks for watching!
Doing this now following by step
Best of luck to you! Hopefully all goes well!
Great video i got to do this tomorrow on my wife's car
Best of luck to you! Hopefully the video helps. Thanks for watching!
This video help me alot thank you for sharing
Great videos very helpful. I am on this now and cant get the pin in the chain tensioner i have been trying for hours lol.
Hopefully you got it by now! It can be tricky to get it in there. If it helps, use a small mirror so you can see what you're aiming at. When it goes in, you'll know! Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend yes it was not going back enough so I used a screwdriver jus to go that bit more. Head is off and the sump is now off. Pistons will be out tomorrow fi gers crossed its just rings. Thanks for the great videos a true help.
Is there a way to do it without using one of the pins? The top bolt stripped for me and i can put the small pin in for the tensioner plug
Ran into the same problem and curious as well! Would love a reply with some help.
I've never tried. Were you able to make it work?
My brother....thanks for this video instantly liked and followed your video. Much love all the way from Fiji
You're welcome! Thank you for the support!
This is a massive massive job excellent work
I appreciate that! Yes, it's a big job, and unfortunately, a very common failure. Thanks for watching!
I’m having the most trouble in the world with the timing chain pin I’m starting to wonder if my kit sent the wrong size
As you pull on the cam with your wrench, you'll be able to feel it pushing the tensioner back. Be sure it stops you, indicating that the tensioner has been pushed all the way back. Line the pin up with the hole and it should go right in. If not, lighten up very slowly on your wrench while still applying pressure to the pin and it should slide right in. Once you get it lined up, there will be little to no resistance on the pin. You'll know it's in when you can let go of the wrench and the cam doesn't try to move back anymore.
I did go out and measure mine and it is .09 inches or about 2.2 mm thick if you want to check the one in your kit. Hopefully that helps. Good luck to you!
I always pull the engine out in about an hour and get the head off to the machine shop and get it checked it's way easier that.
Respect to you sir the way you did it.
Yes, sometimes it is easier just to pull the whole thing out! Thanks for watching!
Great video. My son and I are doing this to his Cruze. I don’t know if you’ll see this comment but if you do, I’m stuck at getting the head off. All the bolts are out and it’s ready to pull but it’s stuck on there. Any tips on how to break it free without messing up the head?? 🤞 Thank you
Hey there! I've had to hit up on the edges with a rubber mallet to get one loose. However, go back to your timing cover and make sure you didn't miss any bolts! If you missed one on that side, the head will not come loose. I've missed one or two over on that side before and the head didn't want to move. It shouldn't take too much to get it loose once all the bolts, both head bolts and timing cover bolts, are out. Thank you for watching!
Great video! Question for you. Was your machine shop able to repair the head or did you have to get another one?
Thanks for watching! Unfortunately it could not be repaired and I had to get a replacement.
@@3DayWeekend dang that sucks. Hopefully this ones not cracked. Already found a massive wast gate crack.
Was yours cracked also? Did you have to replace your turbo also?
Great work I'm that glad they fix the cylinder head I with aluminum welding and what was the cost approximately for repair the leaking head?
Welldone great video. How long did it take you to strip and assemble? I must say for a DIY to do this job, one needs a Ton of tools and special tools.👌
I didn't really time myself on this one and only worked on it in my spare time so I can't answer with any degree of accuracy. I can say that the last one I did took about 6 hours or so. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for taking time to share this. I have been working on this process but am not having any luck with the second timing pin (the first being the thick pin on the bottom and the second being the pin on the intake side). It doesn't seem to slide in as I would expect. Do you have any tips? If I pull on the 21mm wrench on the camshaft, I can get the pin in but it doesn't feel sturdy to, and if I release and pull on the 21mm some more, the lower thick pin falls out
It's not going to feel super sturdy. It's holding a little sleeve on a spring back. If the bottom pin keeps falling out, you can tape it in. The large pin falling out means you are perfectly at TDC. That little pin definitely needs to hold that tensioner though. Hopefully you were able to get it by now though. Thanks for watching!
Hell yea. Neighbor kid keeps asking me to help him fix his car and it’s this Chevy Cruze. Had a p300-p303? Can’t remember. There was oil in spark plug cylinder and a mini puddle of oil in cylinder 1. I sucked the oil out with a straw attached to a vacuum, replaced spark plugs and pcv valve.code went away but I’m paranoid something worse has happened.
Have you changed the valve cover gasket? For oil to get down into the spark plug hole, I would suspect is drizzling down from the valve cover. Those valve cover gaskets are awful and go bad all the time. The good news is that the new gasket is inexpensive and easy to change. I'd swap that out too. I suspect the mini puddle of oil in cylinder 1 happened when you pulled out the spark plug. Just a guess. I could be wrong. Good luck to you! Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend yea oil in cylinder one but the valve cover wasn’t leaking and when we pulled the pcv valve hose and the hose and manifold was coated in oil. The intake manifold has a tiny rubber valve thing and I’m hoping that’s not bad because it would be replacement manifold :/
What do you do if you removed the cylinder head before you put in the timing chain locking pin? I have the crank locking pin in place and ready to put the head back on, but I see that I missed that the timing pin goes in before you take the head off. What do I do?
You'll want to account for all the pieces of the chain tensioner. They are spring loaded, so if you pull it out without the tensioner locked in, the pieces may go flying. I would recommend buying a replacement to see what pieces it comes with, then be sure all the pieces from your old one are accounted for. They like to fall down through the timing cover and end up down in your oil pan. I would not start the engine until all the parts are recovered.
what are those 3 bolts you removed for? the ones you said chevy is very specific about removing? and before doing what do you have to remove them?
Those bolts go through the timing cover and into the head from the side. In the beginning of the part 2 (reassembly) video you can see where they go when I put them back in.
Well done vid.Didnt find if mentioned,was the head repaired or replaced? If replaced what was spend,new or used?
Thanks! This head had to be replaced. The machine shop tested it and found that it had a crack. I was able to source a replacement from my local salvage yard, which I took back to the machine shop. They tested it and found the replacement was good. They decked it, i put it in, and the car ran great! Thanks again for watching!
Hi. This might be a little more complex to answer but I have an odd question. At 26lb torque and 180 degree. What overall torque would you say it should be or nearly be? I’m asking for someone else as they did this job but the torque wrench used seems iffy. Hard to read or understand the reading. Or also hard to understand the setting. The guy told me that you seemed to struggle more then he did when doing the 180 degree turn. Please anything works even a rough estimate.
Maybe I'm just a wimp! :-) You can't really tell the final torque, because these bolts stretch when you tighten them. I wish there was a more definitive answer, but that's how it goes with head bolts!
I I need one done now
Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately it is a pretty common failure on these engines.
The cam solenoids do not need to be turned to come out. If you look at the back of them you will see the only part protruding is the pintle. They can go on either side, no turning, and no alignment is necessary.
Correct. I believe they want you to turn them in an effort to get them loose and slide them out squarely.
@@3DayWeekend The o-rings on those solenoids always leak and need to be replaced more often than you would think.
Great content! But do you really need to remove the wheel? Engine mounts? And serpentine belt? All to replace the head gasket?? Beginner DIYer with a lot of questions 😅
Thanks! Yes, unfortunately it all has to come off to get access to other things. It's not that bad though! Thanks for watching!
I have a 2013 Cruze and have been having issues with a coolant leak. I have replaced the thermostat housing, thermostat, hose and antifreeze resevoir but I still got a message that "AC off due to high engine temp" and "Idle engine, engine overheated". When I pulled over and turned my car off, all of my coolant that had just been replaced had leaked out underneath my car. The mechanic ran a compression test which came back fine so they then sent it to a Chevy specialist who ran a block test. They have now told me that there are signs that fluid is leaking internally but they won't know if it is a head gasket until they take it apart. Is that true? I'm a single mom so I am trying to do my own research as well but I don't understand a lot of the terminology/mechanics.
Unfortunately, what they are saying is true and you likely have a bad head gasket, and maybe more. These engines to not like excessive heat, and if it has overheated, there is likely damage to the gasket and possibly the head. The car in this video also had a crack in the head, which added quite a bit to the repair cost. In my experience, the engine block itself rarely fails in this way, so you're probably looking at a new cylinder head and gasket. I really hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you're looking at a couple thousand dollars in repairs. If they find that the block is bad, your best bet would be a replacement engine from a salvage yard at that point. Sorry for the bad news. Hopefully everything works out for you!
@@3DayWeekend last week my car said the same thing “AC OFF DUE TO HIGH ENGINE TEMP”. I had the heater on and the temp gauge was still on C and wasn’t moving. I’ve seen other videos that said it was the temp sensors, one in the water inlet and one in the radiator (hose). It turned itself off after 2 days and the temp gauge started working again. Any ideas?
I have also have a 2013 Cruze and the same exact issues right now. And I was told the same thing.. unfortunately it is going to be expensive to have it fixed.
So I don’t think I had the slim alignment tool in the right spot. When I removed the head a spring and a cylinder popped out and the alignment pin fell. How much trouble am I in??
You'll definitely want to find all of the pieces. They can go back together, but they could fall down through the timing cover and you do not want them to go down in there! Fish them out and you can put it back together. If you're unsure, order another cam chain tensioner so you can make sure all of the pieces are accounted for. You're not in too much trouble, just be sure you find it all!
I have a 2018 that will require a similar procedure to replace a burnt valve. Can you tell me if there is a big difference between the two to get the head off?
They did change the engine a bit in that year, but disassembly is very similar. I'm not familiar with the timing procedure on the new one though.
How to I get the head off if it’s come loose but won’t fully come off
Some are super stubborn. I've had to use a rubber mallet to assist. There are a couple short dowels between the head and block that you need to clear, then slide it to the right, then up and out. It's easier with a helper. Mind the cam chain tensioner pin!
On the injectors you don’t even have to pull the metal clip back just take your screwdriver and push down on it and pull up on the plug it will come loose and you don’t lose the clip.You just push the clip in right where you pulled it out from instead of pulling it out you just push down on it push it into the plug or rather push towards the rear of the vehicle while pulling the plug up…. Don’t pull the wires though
Yes, you're right. I figured it out on the next one I did! Thanks for watching!
Going to change my head tomorrow. Went ahead and bought another one just to be safe. Could you tell my the tolerances again for warpage? Google search is giving me so many different answers.
Hmmm... I think autocorrect got you! Not sure what the tolerances would be for a warpage! Let me know what you need and I'll see if I can find them in the service manual.
Quick question? How much for the labor do you think it would be? How many hours if I brought it in to a shop and bought my own part? I have a 2011 chevy cruz 1.4 turbo with a bad head gasket
The parts are very cheap. Maybe $100-200 if you bought everything yourself (head gasket, timing cover gasket, head bolts, silicone, coolant, oil change, etc). The labor is where it gets pretty intensive. The "book" calls for 11 hours, and that is assuming that everything goes well.
I have a 2014 cruze LS no turbo about to attempt this pray for me. I have a check engine and anti traction. Took it to advance auto parts to test the codes got a p0303 cylynder 3 missfire due to fuel injector and a bad oil leak that my oil change spot is coming from the head.
It's not common for the head gasket to be leaking oil externally. Typically that oil is coming from the bottom of the valve cover, which leak all the time. Be sure to change that valve cover gasket if you have it apart! They become hard and brittle over time. Best of luck to you!
Hello. Please help. I have a stripped head bolt nut. How should I try to remove it. It’s a 2014. Chevy Cruze 1.4L Turbo. Thank you
Some people have had luck with an ez-out. Others have had to take it to a shop who will weld on a nut to the top so it can be turned out. The only other alternative would be to remove the timing cover/housing completely (so the head can be lifted straight off rather than sliding it to the right first), then drill/cut the bolt head off.
Be sure the socket you use is of high quality with a perfect fit. There isn't much material to grab onto, so there isn't a lot of wiggle room. Really poor choice of head bolts, GM! Best of luck to you! I hope you were able to get it loose!
Looking for a 2011 cruze 1.4 heads.Unfortunatly part of the head chipped of between cyl 3 and 4 .The customer has no money so looking for a used head
I had to go to my local salvage yard to source a replacement head for mine.
Head won’t budge. Any tips on removing stuck head stuck to block?
Check the timing cover and make sure you got ALL of the bolts. Some are sneaky. If you're 100% sure you got them all, a few hits with a rubber mallet on the right front side of the head in an upward direction (it's awkward, but it can be done) will loosen it up. Hope that helps!
First of all thanks for sharing your videos, I have a 0211 Chevy Cruze 1.8 anyway engine is mixing antifreeze and oil in coolant depositor but I noticed no smoke coming out of exhaust pip it's coming out clean ,so I'm beginning to think it's not a cracked block or blown head gasket, what do you think?🤔
That's a tough one. Always hard to diagnose something like that. It is possible for a head gasket to fail in such a way that it doesn't burn the coolant so there is no smoke in the exhaust. Mine was a pretty extreme case with a cracked head. I wouldn't rule out a head gasket yet, but since it is misfiring, I'd definitely run a compression test next. However, oil in the coolant is not good. I recently had a Cruze come in with coolant in the oil. I tore it down and didn't find any cracks in the head or block. It was low on compression from being overheated, so I honed the cylinders, put some new rings on it, replaced the head gasket, and it ran fine since.
Of course, these were all 1.4's. The 1.8 is a different animal and I haven't ever had a bad head gasket on that engine before. But yeah, I'd check compression next and go from there. Good luck to you!
Great video, thank you and asking for more like this, please.
Thanks for watching! Check out my "Cruze Repairs" playlist. It is pretty extensive!
Really good 👍
Thank you!
Great video brother! What is the name of the specialty tool you used at the 16:30 mark?
Thanks! That's a GM timing tool. Here's the link:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGCR3GV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best video ,very well explained, Thanks for sharing,very helpful!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Can I get a list of all the tools you used
For removal I mostly used standard 6-point sockets. Primarily 8mm, 10mm, and 15mm. The head bolts were inverse torx - E12. Cam sprockets were a 24mm socket. The timing port caps were torx T45 and T55. I also used some pliers and screwdrivers, various 3/8 extensions, swivels, and a couple box end wrenches (21mm for the cam, but a crescent wrench will do).
The timing kit was the only proprietary tool that I needed. You can pick that up cheap on amazon here:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGCR3GV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hope that helps!
@@3DayWeekend Thanks for providing the link to this timing kit! Saved me a lengthy Amazon/eBay search! Also, this is a fantastic and thorough tutorial/walkthrough.... You, my friend, have made my weekend job SO MUCH easier. Thank you. Cheers from Southern CA!
YES. YES, MOST VITAL INFORMATION...plus you forgot to list a jack and block of wood
Loved the video. Very thorough.
Thank you!
I just bought a 2014 with a blown head gasket and I'm buying a wrecked 2014 with a good motor that has 144K. I'm thinking of doing the head gasket on the good motor before I swap it over. Do you think I should buy a new head to be safe? I will have the one hydrotested but I don't want it to test good, and then fail in a couple thousand miles.
The head is generally OK. I've only had one be bad in all the ones that I have done, and it cracked because the owner kept driving it for weeks even though it kept overheating. If your head passes the hydrotest, it'll probably be fine. These engines are extremely sensitive to overheating, which typically causes all of these issues. Hope that helps with your decision! Thanks for watching!
Hey I’m trying to take out the water pump pulley to continue and want to know if it’s really necessary because I don’t have the bit nor does it want to come out
Yes, I had to remove it to gain access to other bolts.
Does 2016 Chevy Cruze 1.4 turbo have the same steps?
Yes, it is pretty much the same procedure.
Did you not check engine block deck clearance as well? I'm in the middle of this myself and the cylinder head checks out clearance wise but my block deck allows .05mm through.
Interesting... my block measured within spec. Only the head was off. I did quite a few of these back in the day and never had a block measure bad. The head seems to be the weak spot. I don't remember the specs off-hand, but hopefully yours is OK!
My friend's car needs it replaced (milky coolant in reservoir). I have never worked on internal engine but I've done myself brake jobs, cv axle replacement. Do hou think I could try it or shall i take it to the mechanic?
The official answer is that you should take it to a mechanic. These videos do show the complete process start to finish, but there is always a possibility of unforeseen complications, such as stripped bolts, stuck parts, or doing something incorrectly and causing more damage to the engine.
How do I get to that point? I need to replace my 2012 Cruze head gasket but don’t know the first steps? Can’t find checklist. And I’m not a car guy…
No checklist, but I show how to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold in my other video, "Chevy Cruze Turbo Problems? Here's a complete guide to replacing it!" Hope that helps!
Yes those harness clips under intake are a pain.
I'm glad someone else feels my pain! Thanks for watching!
I have a question the T45 bolt for the timing chain tensioner stripped out it was extremely frozen on does anyone have any tips on how to remove it I don't want to make matters worse thanks
Don't worry, it happens. Soak it in PB Blaster for a few hours (overnight if you can). Take off the water pump and you'll have open access to that cap. If you look close, you'll see the cap has a lip that sits over the timing cover. Grab a good pair of large vice grips, lock them securely onto the lip of that cap, and turn. There is just enough room that if you lock the vice grip onto it so the handles of the vice grip is pointing toward the firewall, you'll have enough room to turn it. It has always come off for me that way. Hope that helps!
Any reason why the head gasket went on it? Besides overheating the engine. Also how many miles were on the engine when the gasket blew
This particular issue ended up being a cracked cylinder head. Not sure how or why (not my car), but it was likely due to overheating because of a leaking water outlet seal that I found later. This engine had about 120k miles on it.
@@3DayWeekend I thought I was going crazy, paused your video and was like, "But...I don't see anything wrong with the gasket. No blowout, or at least, "track" formed between two ports, like you're normally see"
I have a question: So the timing chain tensioner plug for me is either seized, or something is holding it, because I tried to loosen it with a breaker bar and impact wrench, but it will. not. budge. Is there somehow a way that the plug is being held in place? I know there's no way it's supposed to be that tight.
Edit* I got it off: I just used the Impact Drill and wrench at the same time!
Good deal! Yeah, some of them are on tight and can strip out. I've had to get ahold of them with vice grips to turn them out before. Not sure why some are so tight! Must have been the "new guy" at the factory!
is it optional to remove the timing chain plug? Mine is stripped and not coming out 18:55
No, you'll need to release the tension with the pin, or the tensioner will fly apart. The only way to do that is through the plug. I've had some plugs strip out. It's not a big deal. Just take off the water pump and pulley which opens up more space. Then, get a good pair of vice grips clamped down hard on the outer edge of that plug so your vice grips are parallel with the timing cover, and turn it. It will come right off. Hope that helps! Good luck to you!
Muchas grasias, buen video y claro. Saludos desde Dallas Texas.
Thanks for watching!
Friend has a 2011 chevy cruze , every time he trys starting it the cylenders fill up with fuel would that be head gasket or something else
Interesting. If they cylinders were getting coolant in them, I'd say head gasket. The only way for the cylinders to get fuel to them is through the injectors. Either the injectors are stuck open, or there is no spark (bad ignition coil assembly / disconnected / broken wire) and he's cranking it for so long it just keeps putting more and more fuel into the cylinders. Hope that helps!
@3DayWeekend I'm thinking maybe the ECM might be bad , changed the coil pack didn't help , just strange th all 4 cylenders fill up
@3DayWeekend but will check all that you said thank you so much for your help
I tried putting the pin for the tensioner on the timing chain and as I pull the head the tensioner just went off and shoot out all the pieces lol… Let’s see if It’s fixable
Yes, you need to slide the head to the right before lifting so that tensioner clears the timing cover. Then you can lift it up and out. It's a bad day when it goes flying. Make sure all the parts are accounted for!
@3DayWeekend what should I do if it flew apart
I am having trouble with 3 head bolts that won't come out i even tried bolt exters what can I do need your help
If they are stripped and extractors aren't working, you may need to take it to a shop. Sometimes they can weld a new head onto the bolt to get it out. That's a bad situation to be in... make sure the socket you're using is a nice, tight fit before reefing on them. Hope you were able to get them out!
Can I just say that your content is just great , you do such an amazing job going into detail your videos are a great help and I would like to just say thank you very much for taking the time to do such good videos !👍 I also gave you a like and subscribed 👍 thanks again
That means a lot to me! Thank you very much for watching. I appreciate the sub!
The fuel injector clips, actually u squeeze the clip as u grab the injector and pull.
Yeah.... many have pointed that out. I had them confused with a Ford style clip when I was making the video. Thanks for watching!
Do I have to fully remove the turbo to get to the head gasket?
Although I have never done it, some have stated that it can be moved out of the way by taking out all of the exhaust manifold bolts, the feed and drain tubes and the two bolts on the catalytic converter. The flex pipe will then allow you to move it forward toward the radiator. At that point, it is easy enough just to take out the two exhaust bolts and pull the whole thing out. Again, I've never done it so I can't confirm, but you can certainly give it a try!