Thanks buddy I have about 570 videos it might take awhile to go through them but there's quite a lot of good stuff in there always keep your eye out cuz I'm always posting new stuff once in a while sometimes it's a little slow and I don't want to do the same videos more than once because for those that view my channel I can maybe get a little bit boring
Ha...i literally just pulled out my Jato 2.5, that's been sitting for 9 years, today. I soaked it in WD-40...let sit for 5 minutes and slowly began turning the flywheel back and forth. Finally got it totally free. I broke the backplate trying to pull it out (cheap part). I soaked the entire engine with Gunk engine cleaner and washed with hot water after 10min soak. It's completely freed up and the cylinder walls feel fine, i can spin the flywheel and the piston travels freely. I just need a new backplate and dust boot for carburetor as it was dried up and cracked apart. In fact, the cheapo batteries in my remote were STILL GOOD. tested with multimeter. The whole truck has been cleaned up and needs a few parts here and there, but i'm hoping to fire it up in a few days. I was thinking of converting to electric too (i can 3d print my own parts).
Yeah for some reason I've just got your notification right now and yeah WD40 it WD40 is just water dispersant it doesn't really work good for breaking down Nitro varnish non chlorinated brake parts cleaner is usually the way to go and will free up pretty much any engine in like seconds Degrees there's work great too but you have to be careful that they do not contain If sodium hydroxide Or potassium hydroxide as those will attack the aluminum Yet then when you're finished your cleaning and reassembling make sure to oil all the moving parts before putting it back together with just engine oil or racing grade caster oil
I had an OS 40 that had set for over ten years and the throttle barrel was stuck solid, I tried everything that normally worked but I could not get this one freed up. Searched RC forums and found a solution: put in a mixture of Dawn detergent and lightly boiling water for about three minutes and presto! It is freed up. Never had one stuck that bad before.
I found a way to break it loose. Remove the curb and pour nitro inside take the glow plug pour nitro and take exhaust pipe pour nitro then heat it up with hair dryer eureka it’s works lol
If it's been sitting for 10 years what I can suggest is taking the engine out completely disassembling it a thorough cleaning use the correct type of oil to reassemble the engine with and then run it also follow a break-in procedure with the engine because it was only run one dime check the fuel system for any kind of leaks as well as the exhaust
Throw the engine in a plastic peanut butter jar, fill with petrol, forget about it for a few days. Put jar in ultrasonic bath set to heat to 50 Celsius. I store my dormant engines in vat full of transmission fluid.. the always wake up new. Dexron III is cheap! Also great as an after run oil!
I would like to do that but I have certain ways I do other things including soaking things and ghastly does not always a good idea Depending on if it has silicone parts in it that you want to preserve and gasoline will destroy those however if you do decide to strip your engine down and want to get it absolutely clean you can simmer it and use car brake fluid for a couple of hours or green Antifreeze it works good too
Fired up mine after 10 years in storage fired up fine after a ton of bollixing around with it and wd40 went to fire it up today and it completely siezed up. opened the backplate and sprayed wd40 around inside blowtorched the crankcase and head blowtorched inside up at piston and slowly but surely she shifted round and round until she loosened up. i had only fired it up for 1 minute the week before leaving a full tank in it didnt put after run oil in and worse of all i left the pistion top dead center which jammed up when it cooled down. 10 years is enough time to forget the fundamentals.
You don't want to blow torch the peston if possible or the sleeve it will change the integrity of the material make it fail shortly after Just warm up the crankcase a little bit and WD44 water dispersant formula 40 isn't that great for engines if you have one that's really stock non chlorinated brake parts cleaner eats all the varnish out instantly and then just add I lights and thetic to get everything moving again But glad you got a going
@@thebug4046 cheers for the tip will be dropping into an autoparts store on the way home. I figured the same about heat but I reasoned the crankcase has been through a fair bit of heat after a gallon and a half through it with heavy bashing that I'd figure the metal would be tempered to withstand a flame. With a siezed engine I wasn't sure id ever get it going again. But it really drove home the point of leaving the piston bottom dead center. Got an auto center punch and put two divots on the flywheel of both car and truck after that episode to make sure I always have them both set. Didn't know that about wd40 heard it eats o rings alright.
@@Babihrse Yeah when applying he E just have to be careful especially if you have plastic caged bearings you can melt the cage and then your ball bearings will fall out and destroy your engine Or you can melt seals When applying heat to disassemble as usually when I replace the bearings it's all about how you do it Now there is a group on Facebook called nitro RC enthusiast's group you can join that I'm also in there
@@thebug4046 i browse now and again. Take a look at johnnyq90 if you want to see a machinist make and upgrade every single part of a RC car. Has made dual engined twin carbs with ports and brake discs. It's really relaxing to watch each part being machined with every video iteration.
Do NOT! try prying it. Get a old slow cooker and fill it with green coolent and let it sit overnight. Outside or away from pets etc.. that will remove all the varnish and free stuck rings. This would be a good time to replace the bearings as well. And look for an extra piston ring to keep on hand.
Do you know if the pro 15 has a hole behind the front bearing that bypasses the crank to crankcase seal? I'm guessing it doesn't and that's probably why the pro 15 runs good. I know the 2.5 and 3.3 will run really good and have a nice low steady idle if you plug that hole completely. Supposedly it's there to suck oil out so that it doesn't seep oil from the front bearing. I have found that their design is sucking in air from the atmosphere bypassing the carburetor and the important seal between the crank and crankcase that causes a permanent air leak unless that hole is completely plugged. The best Traxxas engine I've ever had was a 2.5r that I plugged the hole from the beginning before I even ran it in a jato. The idle came straight down to a nice low steady even idle every single time without fail. It ran great with the stock carburetor. It is a complete garbage design to have a hole there and it is not like other engines I have seen that has an oil groove and slot behind the main seal between the crank and crankcase. The normal design for it to have oil at the front doesn't have a bypass hole. The hole in the Traxxas engines bypasses the seal. Since it does not have crank seals the seal on glow engines is the very small area between the crankshaft and crankcase. The thin oil film is what seals the engine. Probably also why so many have problems early on with low oil content fuel. Besides their engines wearing out very fast. I'd much rather have a little bit of oil seeping from the front bearing and not have an air leak and not sucking in dust through the bearing. The idle will never be right with a constant air leak on the 2.5 and 3.3. A better carb is just a cover for the real cause and problem. Just like high nitro is a cover for the garbage savage tank for half tank lean. A symmetrical tank is the actual fix. More nitro means the engine can run richer and still make decent power. Allowing someone to run super rich when the fuel is above the step .... And then when it hits the step it will lean out, but if the tune was rich enough it won't be too lean with high nitro when it hits the step. I can't believe they still pump out that garbage tank to this day. Same with the T-Maxx. Tmaxx will go rich when fuel level drops. Opposite of savage. And it creeps up on you rather than happening all of a sudden with the savage tank. The Traxxas engines will run perfectly fine and very good with that hole plugged. And the tmaxx needs a symetrical tank also so the tune doesn't change as fuel level drops. Would be interesting to know if the pro 15 has that hole there. I don't recall having my 2.5r seeping oil from plugging the hole. But maybe there was a little I don't remember. Not a big deal at all to have a sealed engine. That is way more important so that it doesn't attract dust through the front bearing and ruin your idle.
I do have a pro 15 rebuild video I can't remember exactly if it has not hold there or not I don't think it does from what I can remember but I haven't had much issue with the oil port or vacuum port whatever its called. Mostly all engines I work on have it. Even my 1966 Enya 60-iii 2 stroke. I will try to plug one with a little JB or something one day just to see how it goes. My 3.3 and both 2.5R engines all have different carburetors and they run much better than the oem carb. The 2.5R in my tmaxx has a 3.3 crank and os 11k carb it runs amazing! Very responsive and stable. I don't know if you are on Facebook but if you are check the nitro rc enthusiasts group lot's of good stuff in their
A fuel like 20/14 mix will run lean and hot compared to 20/9 will run richer and cooler and if you run with 30/9 it will again run richer and cooler keep your oil 12% or less more oil more heat I'm also very limited on fuel right now because of everything and I'm not spending 70$ a gallon for a video lol And as far as the fuel temperature goes cold fuel will actually be much more harder to start and tune because it does not want to turn the vapors as easy so those fuel cooler things are a complete joke they do nothing and hot fuel well just cause moisture problems Or make the methanol evaporate off and cause all sorts of issues keep it at ambient temperature
I haven't found your vid on bearings removal. I have 2 motors here that I'm afraid of ruining them if i start taking them out like old ford u-joints . Same with install.
Just keep scrolling through I have several videos I posted 1 about 2 weeks ago and had removed bearings and put them back in and an engine rebuild basically and elsea 4 engine rebuild something like that this keeps growing there and watch a few videos and all show how to do it it takes literally 5 minutes
@@speedbob712 Like I said looking the latest videos I posted a video about the pro 15 bearing installation and removal it doesn't matter what engine you have it's all the same
you know there is a easyer way remove the plug fill it with wd40 take a paint burner (electric) heat it till it smokes carvuly turn the flywheel withing 10 min every engine is free also the best thing to do when you just freed up an engine run it burn the wd40 out of it
Not exactly sure what you mean by quench If you mean pench that's different and if you are going to be doing that you have to send it away to places like Ray A racing or RB Mods cost you about 30$ US Now if you go to Facebook and look up nitro RC enthusiasm group I am in there you can join it and those people are in there that can help you out with that
@@dacgaming415-30P Yes reconditioning the cylinder there is lots of companies out there that do it it's pretty easy to find them if you live in the United States And please whatever you do don't buy those cheap pens tools off eBay or anything like that or any the home remedies that's how you put your cylinder out of round and your engine will never run again
It won't hurt anything just make sure that everything is thoroughly cleaned you can also use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner to final wash everything and then reassemble with after run oil just make sure you're using a sealed container because Nitro fuel can pull water out of the air or evaporate and leave an oily residue all over everything
@@thebug4046 I tried non-chlorinated brake cleaner on an engine, and it did nothing to it. I finally used carb cleaner, and it took all of the fuel and oil off of it. I then lubed everything with lightweight oil, put it all back together and it fired on the 1st pull. Worst case scenario I use unleaded gas in a sealed container and let it sit for a few hours.
@@InTheDogHouse3DPrinting be careful how you store your fuel because it does absorb water from the atmosphere and become corrosive other than that depending on where you live sometimes the brake cleaner could be really groggy or really good the stuff I get here in Canada is really nasty and it will eat the worst case of nitrile varnish you can imagine carburetor cleaner works fantastic as well just be careful around silicone parts but glad to hear you got it running
I read through the comments a lil but I still want to ask if heating up my engine would be a good idea or option. I used WD-40 but won't come out. My problem is: engine is not seized but the statting pin thats supposed to pop out a bit on the piston crank won't come out. So when I turn the engine it doesn't catch on that pin. I'd appreciate the help. Thank you for the video btw
If heat is essential to getting them apart most of the time it's just the way it is they can often be very tight and just need a little bit of heat to loosen up and be able to be taken apart as far as WD40 goes it's not very good at breaking down Nitro varnish brake parts cleaner is much better. And we'll actually clean and remove all the varnish off the moving parts after that you want to reassemble all your parts with oil wd40 Stands for water dispersant formula 40
Hey man, I have a question do you think it’s worth rebuilding an engine that has a scored piston and sleeve like will the other components be ok. I’m thinking about getting an engine from my friend (he is kinda dumb) he didn’t run an air filter, scored the piston and sleeve and just got another engine so do you think it would be worth rebuilding? It’s an sh18
OK so basically I have a volcano S 30 I have an electric start the electric start is turning but the gear right next to the engine closest to the engine is basically locked it gets a little play this way or that way but it’s locked will this fix it or is this another problem ?
To be honest I'm not sure what that would be it's very hard to imagine something like this over text message I'd have to see it I would suggest if you have a Facebook account go on and look up nitro RC enthusiastic answer all the questions and joined the group and post a video or a picture of what your problem is
This and he is an OS 18 CVR and depending on what country you live in sometimes buying pre-made RC fuel can be pretty hard but you don't have to have nitromethane nitromethane is just a power Adder to the fuel you can run with 12% castor oil and the rest methanol which is usually 88% pure methanol and 12% castor oil which is just standard glow fuel without nitromethane it does take a little bit of getting used to for tuning but I have videos on my channel how to do that if you keep looking through also if you search on RUclips 0% Nitro RC you will see many people doing it including myself
Yeah disassemble the engine clean it thoroughly you some after run oil or racing grade castor oil for reassembly as far as cleaning goes you can use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner or 99% rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol
@@dailyriddenhorses7665 set your trim to zero and then look at your idle Gap if it's all the way closed than open your idle gap on your carburetor if you need help there is a group on Facebook call Nitro RC enthusiasts which I'm apart of join that post a video and one of our 12,000 members can help you it's a lot easier that way than trying to do it over RUclips
You are doing what I love to do. Good video 👍
Thanks buddy I have about 570 videos it might take awhile to go through them but there's quite a lot of good stuff in there always keep your eye out cuz I'm always posting new stuff once in a while sometimes it's a little slow and I don't want to do the same videos more than once because for those that view my channel I can maybe get a little bit boring
I like to use pb blaster in the exhaust port and glow plug hole and intake then take a butane torch and heat around the cylinder. Atf works great too
Absolutely!
Ha...i literally just pulled out my Jato 2.5, that's been sitting for 9 years, today. I soaked it in WD-40...let sit for 5 minutes and slowly began turning the flywheel back and forth. Finally got it totally free. I broke the backplate trying to pull it out (cheap part). I soaked the entire engine with Gunk engine cleaner and washed with hot water after 10min soak. It's completely freed up and the cylinder walls feel fine, i can spin the flywheel and the piston travels freely. I just need a new backplate and dust boot for carburetor as it was dried up and cracked apart. In fact, the cheapo batteries in my remote were STILL GOOD. tested with multimeter. The whole truck has been cleaned up and needs a few parts here and there, but i'm hoping to fire it up in a few days. I was thinking of converting to electric too (i can 3d print my own parts).
Yeah for some reason I've just got your notification right now and yeah WD40 it WD40 is just water dispersant it doesn't really work good for breaking down Nitro varnish non chlorinated brake parts cleaner is usually the way to go and will free up pretty much any engine in like seconds Degrees there's work great too but you have to be careful that they do not contain If sodium hydroxide Or potassium hydroxide as those will attack the aluminum Yet then when you're finished your cleaning and reassembling make sure to oil all the moving parts before putting it back together with just engine oil or racing grade caster oil
Jus reading all your responses to your previous comments and you’ve answered all my questions
🙏🏽
Hey no problem dude glad it helps
I had an OS 40 that had set for over ten years and the throttle barrel was stuck solid, I tried everything that normally worked but I could not get this one freed up. Searched RC forums and found a solution: put in a mixture of Dawn detergent and lightly boiling water for about three minutes and presto! It is freed up. Never had one stuck that bad before.
Nice! Never heard of that one before
How much detergent?
Less than a teaspoon
I found a way to break it loose. Remove the curb and pour nitro inside take the glow plug pour nitro and take exhaust pipe pour nitro then heat it up with hair dryer eureka it’s works lol
As long as it works! I just don't use fuel for cleaning things because it's so damn expensive here
Grab an old Crock Pot. Fill it with Prestone Antifreeze. Heat it on high and submerge your motors in it for 4 to 8rs, they come out way easier.
I have done that a few times works great!
My uncle gave me his losi nitro muggy which has been siting for 10 years or more it was used on for one day do you think it will start
If it's been sitting for 10 years what I can suggest is taking the engine out completely disassembling it a thorough cleaning use the correct type of oil to reassemble the engine with and then run it also follow a break-in procedure with the engine because it was only run one dime check the fuel system for any kind of leaks as well as the exhaust
Throw the engine in a plastic peanut butter jar, fill with petrol, forget about it for a few days. Put jar in ultrasonic bath set to heat to 50 Celsius. I store my dormant engines in vat full of transmission fluid.. the always wake up new. Dexron III is cheap! Also great as an after run oil!
I would like to do that but I have certain ways I do other things including soaking things and ghastly does not always a good idea Depending on if it has silicone parts in it that you want to preserve and gasoline will destroy those however if you do decide to strip your engine down and want to get it absolutely clean you can simmer it and use car brake fluid for a couple of hours or green Antifreeze it works good too
Fired up mine after 10 years in storage fired up fine after a ton of bollixing around with it and wd40
went to fire it up today and it completely siezed up. opened the backplate and sprayed wd40 around inside blowtorched the crankcase and head blowtorched inside up at piston and slowly but surely she shifted round and round until she loosened up.
i had only fired it up for 1 minute the week before leaving a full tank in it didnt put after run oil in and worse of all i left the pistion top dead center which jammed up when it cooled down.
10 years is enough time to forget the fundamentals.
You don't want to blow torch the peston if possible or the sleeve it will change the integrity of the material make it fail shortly after Just warm up the crankcase a little bit and WD44 water dispersant formula 40 isn't that great for engines if you have one that's really stock non chlorinated brake parts cleaner eats all the varnish out instantly and then just add I lights and thetic to get everything moving again But glad you got a going
@@thebug4046 cheers for the tip will be dropping into an autoparts store on the way home.
I figured the same about heat but I reasoned the crankcase has been through a fair bit of heat after a gallon and a half through it with heavy bashing that I'd figure the metal would be tempered to withstand a flame.
With a siezed engine I wasn't sure id ever get it going again. But it really drove home the point of leaving the piston bottom dead center. Got an auto center punch and put two divots on the flywheel of both car and truck after that episode to make sure I always have them both set. Didn't know that about wd40 heard it eats o rings alright.
@@Babihrse Yeah when applying he E just have to be careful especially if you have plastic caged bearings you can melt the cage and then your ball bearings will fall out and destroy your engine Or you can melt seals When applying heat to disassemble as usually when I replace the bearings it's all about how you do it Now there is a group on Facebook called nitro RC enthusiast's group you can join that I'm also in there
@@thebug4046 i browse now and again.
Take a look at johnnyq90 if you want to see a machinist make and upgrade every single part of a RC car. Has made dual engined twin carbs with ports and brake discs. It's really relaxing to watch each part being machined with every video iteration.
@@Babihrse nice man I definitely will
Thanks for the video! Good one.
Welcome
Hi john can you please tell me how to unseize a nitro piston ring on os 55hz _Hyper engine from graham
Do NOT! try prying it. Get a old slow cooker and fill it with green coolent and let it sit overnight. Outside or away from pets etc.. that will remove all the varnish and free stuck rings. This would be a good time to replace the bearings as well. And look for an extra piston ring to keep on hand.
Do you know if the pro 15 has a hole behind the front bearing that bypasses the crank to crankcase seal?
I'm guessing it doesn't and that's probably why the pro 15 runs good. I know the 2.5 and 3.3 will run really good and have a nice low steady idle if you plug that hole completely. Supposedly it's there to suck oil out so that it doesn't seep oil from the front bearing. I have found that their design is sucking in air from the atmosphere bypassing the carburetor and the important seal between the crank and crankcase that causes a permanent air leak unless that hole is completely plugged.
The best Traxxas engine I've ever had was a 2.5r that I plugged the hole from the beginning before I even ran it in a jato. The idle came straight down to a nice low steady even idle every single time without fail. It ran great with the stock carburetor.
It is a complete garbage design to have a hole there and it is not like other engines I have seen that has an oil groove and slot behind the main seal between the crank and crankcase.
The normal design for it to have oil at the front doesn't have a bypass hole. The hole in the Traxxas engines bypasses the seal. Since it does not have crank seals the seal on glow engines is the very small area between the crankshaft and crankcase. The thin oil film is what seals the engine. Probably also why so many have problems early on with low oil content fuel. Besides their engines wearing out very fast.
I'd much rather have a little bit of oil seeping from the front bearing and not have an air leak and not sucking in dust through the bearing. The idle will never be right with a constant air leak on the 2.5 and 3.3. A better carb is just a cover for the real cause and problem. Just like high nitro is a cover for the garbage savage tank for half tank lean. A symmetrical tank is the actual fix. More nitro means the engine can run richer and still make decent power. Allowing someone to run super rich when the fuel is above the step .... And then when it hits the step it will lean out, but if the tune was rich enough it won't be too lean with high nitro when it hits the step. I can't believe they still pump out that garbage tank to this day. Same with the T-Maxx. Tmaxx will go rich when fuel level drops. Opposite of savage. And it creeps up on you rather than happening all of a sudden with the savage tank.
The Traxxas engines will run perfectly fine and very good with that hole plugged. And the tmaxx needs a symetrical tank also so the tune doesn't change as fuel level drops.
Would be interesting to know if the pro 15 has that hole there. I don't recall having my 2.5r seeping oil from plugging the hole. But maybe there was a little I don't remember. Not a big deal at all to have a sealed engine. That is way more important so that it doesn't attract dust through the front bearing and ruin your idle.
I do have a pro 15 rebuild video I can't remember exactly if it has not hold there or not I don't think it does from what I can remember but I haven't had much issue with the oil port or vacuum port whatever its called. Mostly all engines I work on have it. Even my 1966 Enya 60-iii 2 stroke. I will try to plug one with a little JB or something one day just to see how it goes. My 3.3 and both 2.5R engines all have different carburetors and they run much better than the oem carb. The 2.5R in my tmaxx has a 3.3 crank and os 11k carb it runs amazing! Very responsive and stable. I don't know if you are on Facebook but if you are check the nitro rc enthusiasts group lot's of good stuff in their
Can you do a video on fuel temperature try some reali cold and reali warm and see if it has any effect on engine temp or performance
A fuel like 20/14 mix will run lean and hot compared to 20/9 will run richer and cooler and if you run with 30/9 it will again run richer and cooler keep your oil 12% or less more oil more heat I'm also very limited on fuel right now because of everything and I'm not spending 70$ a gallon for a video lol And as far as the fuel temperature goes cold fuel will actually be much more harder to start and tune because it does not want to turn the vapors as easy so those fuel cooler things are a complete joke they do nothing and hot fuel well just cause moisture problems Or make the methanol evaporate off and cause all sorts of issues keep it at ambient temperature
I haven't found your vid on bearings removal.
I have 2 motors here that I'm afraid of ruining them if i start taking them out like old ford u-joints .
Same with install.
Just keep scrolling through I have several videos I posted 1 about 2 weeks ago and had removed bearings and put them back in and an engine rebuild basically and elsea 4 engine rebuild something like that this keeps growing there and watch a few videos and all show how to do it it takes literally 5 minutes
@@thebug4046 found one on bearing install. Slick.
Still looking for removal. Thanks for the content.
@@speedbob712 Like I said looking the latest videos I posted a video about the pro 15 bearing installation and removal it doesn't matter what engine you have it's all the same
@@speedbob712 ruclips.net/video/rcCAx6VP8jQ/видео.html
you know there is a easyer way
remove the plug
fill it with wd40
take a paint burner (electric)
heat it till it smokes
carvuly turn the flywheel
withing 10 min every engine is free
also the best thing to do when you just freed up an engine
run it
burn the wd40 out of it
i fined wd40 don't work that well and i did have had heat gun but it let the smoke out lol i use 99% IPA it works much better then wd40
cold wd40 does nothing
when it is hot it dissolves the crud
how do you re quench a cyclinder sleeve?????? trying too free up my sandmaster mk2 engine
Not exactly sure what you mean by quench If you mean pench that's different and if you are going to be doing that you have to send it away to places like Ray A racing or RB Mods cost you about 30$ US Now if you go to Facebook and look up nitro RC enthusiasm group I am in there you can join it and those people are in there that can help you out with that
@@thebug4046 recondition the cyclinder
@@dacgaming415-30P Yes reconditioning the cylinder there is lots of companies out there that do it it's pretty easy to find them if you live in the United States And please whatever you do don't buy those cheap pens tools off eBay or anything like that or any the home remedies that's how you put your cylinder out of round and your engine will never run again
My rc engine was seized, so I took it apart, and I'm cleaning it. Is it ok to leave the engine parts in nitro fuel to remove all the grease and dirt?
It won't hurt anything just make sure that everything is thoroughly cleaned you can also use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner to final wash everything and then reassemble with after run oil just make sure you're using a sealed container because Nitro fuel can pull water out of the air or evaporate and leave an oily residue all over everything
@@thebug4046 I tried non-chlorinated brake cleaner on an engine, and it did nothing to it. I finally used carb cleaner, and it took all of the fuel and oil off of it. I then lubed everything with lightweight oil, put it all back together and it fired on the 1st pull.
Worst case scenario I use unleaded gas in a sealed container and let it sit for a few hours.
@@InTheDogHouse3DPrinting be careful how you store your fuel because it does absorb water from the atmosphere and become corrosive other than that depending on where you live sometimes the brake cleaner could be really groggy or really good the stuff I get here in Canada is really nasty and it will eat the worst case of nitrile varnish you can imagine carburetor cleaner works fantastic as well just be careful around silicone parts but glad to hear you got it running
I got it to start in runs like a beast
Nice
18cvr are my favorite engine for a .18 looks like that one will be and easy one to freshen up
they are awesome all it needs new bearings and a cylinder head and it should run it's got lots of pinch left
might have one for ya, let me check my stash.
nice!
thebug 404 I got 5-6 .18 tm heads at my place in Alaska but going back home next week. I might have a 18 cvr head I will let you know
grimthenoble that's awesome man thank you for the offer keep me posted
I read through the comments a lil but I still want to ask if heating up my engine would be a good idea or option. I used WD-40 but won't come out.
My problem is: engine is not seized but the statting pin thats supposed to pop out a bit on the piston crank won't come out. So when I turn the engine it doesn't catch on that pin. I'd appreciate the help. Thank you for the video btw
If heat is essential to getting them apart most of the time it's just the way it is they can often be very tight and just need a little bit of heat to loosen up and be able to be taken apart as far as WD40 goes it's not very good at breaking down Nitro varnish brake parts cleaner is much better. And we'll actually clean and remove all the varnish off the moving parts after that you want to reassemble all your parts with oil wd40 Stands for water dispersant formula 40
Hey man, I have a question do you think it’s worth rebuilding an engine that has a scored piston and sleeve like will the other components be ok. I’m thinking about getting an engine from my friend (he is kinda dumb) he didn’t run an air filter, scored the piston and sleeve and just got another engine so do you think it would be worth rebuilding? It’s an sh18
If the piston and sleeve are scored so is the crankshaft and block those engines are only about $80 new just got a new one
thebug 404 thanks for the quick response man
@@nitrogas5719 no problem
OK so basically I have a volcano S 30 I have an electric start the electric start is turning but the gear right next to the engine closest to the engine is basically locked it gets a little play this way or that way but it’s locked will this fix it or is this another problem ?
To be honest I'm not sure what that would be it's very hard to imagine something like this over text message I'd have to see it I would suggest if you have a Facebook account go on and look up nitro RC enthusiastic answer all the questions and joined the group and post a video or a picture of what your problem is
thebug 404 Ok
thebug 404 Tell them over there to accept me🤣 are you an admin?
@@danielmajeski3307 Yes I am 1 of the admin but you have to answer all the questions otherwise you will not be added
thebug 404 ok I post mine my name is dantraining02 or daniel majeski not surr it should be posted
Hi, from where did You bought this engine?
Got them used from a friend
No bueno haha cool vid thanks
Sucked but wasn't that bad
@thebug 404 I like how u sused no Bueno thanks I'm looking for part $ losib3570 spur gear any help to find the gear
What is a nitro engine? I don’t have any engines which run
on what I assume is Nitromethane.
This and he is an OS 18 CVR and depending on what country you live in sometimes buying pre-made RC fuel can be pretty hard but you don't have to have nitromethane nitromethane is just a power Adder to the fuel you can run with 12% castor oil and the rest methanol which is usually 88% pure methanol and 12% castor oil which is just standard glow fuel without nitromethane it does take a little bit of getting used to for tuning but I have videos on my channel how to do that if you keep looking through also if you search on RUclips 0% Nitro RC you will see many people doing it including myself
I have. Car I need you to work on.
Go to my rc group nitro/diesel/gas rc and more 2 questions to answer and im sure you will get help
We can't see the tape lol
?
It was used only a once
Yeah disassemble the engine clean it thoroughly you some after run oil or racing grade castor oil for reassembly as far as cleaning goes you can use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner or 99% rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol
Thanks
Can it start without the tranmitter being on
@@dailyriddenhorses7665 set your trim to zero and then look at your idle Gap if it's all the way closed than open your idle gap on your carburetor if you need help there is a group on Facebook call Nitro RC enthusiasts which I'm apart of join that post a video and one of our 12,000 members can help you it's a lot easier that way than trying to do it over RUclips
If I lost the radio and no battery for the electronics can it start
Hi.mad.what.didyou.bad.video.didnot