I had one of these back in the Eighties on my Canon AE-1. It was super sharp, sharper even than my 50mm f1.8 lens and great for portraits at 70mm setting.
@@photographyforenjoyment Canon used a rubber substance for the internal zoom rollers on these FD & nFD lenses. Even the L lenses used it. As a result, they all degrade over time and they all will fail eventually. I half disassembled a mint condition nFD 35-70 2.8-3.5 trying to figure out why the zoom mechanism was so bad. After inspecting the rollers it was obvious they were disintegrating. I managed to find a camera repair technician in California that will take these older FD lenses and retrofit them with modern Teflon rollers. It cost me about $150 years ago. Thankfully I got the lens for almost nothing because of the zoom problem. That lens now remains glued to my New F1 :-) It's a tank, and you are correct I would probably be better off with a 50mm, but I just love the engineering on that lens. Cheers!
Hi and thanks for commenting! I haven't been able to reveal any technical specs on this lens that can tell me whether it was designed as a parfocal zoom (in other words maintaining focus throughout the zoom range) or not. That's why I discussed the fact that in my example it might have been due to wear in the mechanism. If your lens holds focus well, then I suspect my lens has suffered in that department; so your comment has kind of answered the question!
@@photographyforenjoyment Going by my experience with this lens on a Canon A1 film camera, and a Fujifilm XE-1 APS digital, it does appear to be parfocal, though I haven't come across any reference to this online - which is surprising. I wonder if, as you mention, your example has internal wear / age degradation, or possibly your adapter has a slight back focus error. I've found my copy to be remarkably good on both film and digital.
I recently acquired a very nice FTb with this lens in the deal, and considering the price I paid for the body, this lens was essentially free. So I can't complain a lot. Seems well made, is very smooth, and does not exhibit focus change across the zoom range at all. I wonder if there is something in the optics of the adapter that's causing that issue for our reviewer. No cap, sadly. Have not had a chance to shoot with it yet.
Well now 'Ranger', the Canon FTb QL was a camera I owned myself back in the 70's and was one of the last models made before Canon (and everyone else) started using plastics, so you have got a real classic there. As for the 35-70, I do know some people have issues when using it adapted, so you may well be correct. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Alan. Whenever I watch your most enjoyable AND very informative videos it makes me want to get back into photography like I was before I rediscovered my long love affair with my guitar! I used to take my Canon cameras (I started out with the T5i and upgraded to the 6D Mk II) with me wherever I went but now I only shoot weddings and an occasional flower or a senior for a family member. Since I started composing and recording ambient guitar my camera sits alone on a shelf gathering dust (not really, it’s covered, but a little dramatic phraseology for emphasis is ok). 😎🎸😎
Well TC, as much as I love my photography I'm not going to be the one who tries to tempt you to put away your guitars as I admire your music so much. Just maybe uncover your camera every once in a while? Stay safe my friend.
Point on the filter issue - some 52mm filters don't seem to work with the lens at all. You can screw them in place when the lens is properly zoomed and focused, but the rim of the filter then prevents the lens from moving, getting stuck if the front element tries to move back.
Yes Juusteli that is a fact and it's down to the slightly odd physical construction of the focusing ring. It is a pretty good performer, but shows it's age coming from an era when zooms were still viewed with suspicion.
Hi Alan, recently bought one, I'm new in film photography, wondered if you could explain me what does the little red inscriptions (70, "50" and 35) just in front of the focus ring means? Thanks!
Hi Lucas, I am delighted to welcome a newcomer to photography! Those numbers refer to the zoom settings for the lens. Obviously you can see the zooming effect when you look through the cameras viewfinder, so those inscribed numbers give you a quick visual check before putting the camera up to the eye. Most zoom lenses of that era had similar markings. If you have any other questions on any topic, please feel free to reach out, and thanks for watching!
@@photographyforenjoyment I obviously understand that the white marks on the zoom ring indicate me my settings before I look into the viewfinder, but I don't understand the signification of the littles red ones, those who are placed between the zoom ring and the focus ring, I don't know if they have an incidence or if I don't have to mind them Maybe I'm not clear enough in which case I apologise haha, I hadn't any difficulty to use it, zooming or focusing (for now), there's just those little red inscriptions that intrigue me because I don't understand how to read them, what do they tell me in which situation etc.. thanks 🙏🏻
Sorry Lucas I misunderstood your question! Those smaller red markings indicate focus point at the different zoom settings. In common with many zooms of the same period, the point of focus changes as you alter the zoom amount, so once again these will give you a visual check on distances at the 35/50/70 settings. I would suggest that to all intents and purposes you can ignore them.
@@photographyforenjoyment okay I see, thanks So basically the yellow mark at the middle doesn't really show me my focus point, I theoretically have to read on the zoom ring my actual zoom, look at the red marks where it correspond and then see on the focus ring the focus point it says to me right? I effectively feel like I can ignore them cause of the small correction it is in reality, but I wanted to understand what it exactly mean to know how to completely read my lens!
Yes Lucas, those markings really are just for reference. They MAY be useful when trying to understand Depth of Field but to all intents and purposes, when looking through the lens you can ignore them. DoF is something you will get to learn as you progress!
Hi Alan, if using these zoom lenses on a Panasonic or Olympus camera that allows the user to set the in body stabilisation, would it be better to simply turn the stabilisation off, and just use an appropriate shutter speed , or maybe set stabilisation for the longer focusing length, assuming will will be zooming in and out? The stabilisation works fine with a prime, but using a legacy zoom offers a different challenge.
That's a really interesting question Steve. Personally, with a short zoom like the 35-70 I would tend to set I.S. for something toward the longer end of the scale and then zoom accordingly. However, certainly with longer zooms the I.S. would probably work against you, so my instinct would be to turn it off. Great question and if anybody out there has some other ideas or suggestions, let's hear them!
Very interesting and enjoyable video as always, I'm just curious to know how much Nick is charging you as a rental fee for the lens. After looking at the photos that you shared and doing my usual scientific analysis I can positively determine that the ones in focus are in focus and that the out of focus are indeed out of focus. You mentioned selling these lenses, did you work for Canon or at a camera store? Be well and stay safe.
Ha! well done for spotting the out of focus ones Enrique... I actually (over quite a few years) worked in 4 different camera stores, it just so happens that when Canon launched the 'T' series they proved very popular.
there is no fee per se - but Alan does provide me with cartoon images of Dexter on demand!! well, when I say "on demand" he's sent me one once. as business models go, it's not been my best effort...
Hi! I have one question. If focal length (50mm f1,4) on M4/3 go from 50mm to 100mm because 2x crop factor, what about f stop? Is It the same f1,4, or double f2,8? Thank you in advance!
Hello Kreso and thank you for the question! f-stops are relative to the LENS and are expressed as a ratio between focal length and the maximum diameter of the optics. However, when it comes to EFFECTIVE apertures, the sensor size does make a difference when it comes to depth of field. If you had a 50mm f2 lens designed for a film camera or FF digital, then mounted on a M43 body it would effectively become a 100mm f4. This article might be worth a read; www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care
Hello Joao and thanks for the question. It means Straight Out Of Camera. We get so used to these acronyms that we forget to explain them! So SOOC are basically unedited images. Apologies for any confusion!
I had one of these back in the Eighties on my Canon AE-1. It was super sharp, sharper even than my 50mm f1.8 lens and great for portraits at 70mm setting.
Thanks for that Martin, I have used it quite a lot since making that video and as long as I can hit focus with it, I would totally agree with you!
@@photographyforenjoyment Canon used a rubber substance for the internal zoom rollers on these FD & nFD lenses. Even the L lenses used it. As a result, they all degrade over time and they all will fail eventually. I half disassembled a mint condition nFD 35-70 2.8-3.5 trying to figure out why the zoom mechanism was so bad. After inspecting the rollers it was obvious they were disintegrating. I managed to find a camera repair technician in California that will take these older FD lenses and retrofit them with modern Teflon rollers. It cost me about $150 years ago. Thankfully I got the lens for almost nothing because of the zoom problem. That lens now remains glued to my New F1 :-) It's a tank, and you are correct I would probably be better off with a 50mm, but I just love the engineering on that lens. Cheers!
Thanks great review. Just found one attached to an AE1 in a charity shop so looking forward to fitting it to my Sony A7
That sounds like a great find Jeremy, I hope you enjoy using it! Thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated.
Interestingly, I have an example of this lens and focus is remarkably consistent throughout the zoom range.
Hi and thanks for commenting! I haven't been able to reveal any technical specs on this lens that can tell me whether it was designed as a parfocal zoom (in other words maintaining focus throughout the zoom range) or not. That's why I discussed the fact that in my example it might have been due to wear in the mechanism. If your lens holds focus well, then I suspect my lens has suffered in that department; so your comment has kind of answered the question!
@@photographyforenjoyment Going by my experience with this lens on a Canon A1 film camera, and a Fujifilm XE-1 APS digital, it does appear to be parfocal, though I haven't come across any reference to this online - which is surprising. I wonder if, as you mention, your example has internal wear / age degradation, or possibly your adapter has a slight back focus error. I've found my copy to be remarkably good on both film and digital.
That's a very good point about the adaptor!
nice review Alan - the images (well, the in focus ones) look lovely. glad you got some use and a video out of it :-)
It will probably get a lot more views than my Western Approaches museum film, but I guess that's just a given with equipment reviews. Thank you Nick 😊
I recently acquired a very nice FTb with this lens in the deal, and considering the price I paid for the body, this lens was essentially free. So I can't complain a lot. Seems well made, is very smooth, and does not exhibit focus change across the zoom range at all. I wonder if there is something in the optics of the adapter that's causing that issue for our reviewer. No cap, sadly. Have not had a chance to shoot with it yet.
Well now 'Ranger', the Canon FTb QL was a camera I owned myself back in the 70's and was one of the last models made before Canon (and everyone else) started using plastics, so you have got a real classic there. As for the 35-70, I do know some people have issues when using it adapted, so you may well be correct. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Alan. Whenever I watch your most enjoyable AND very informative videos it makes me want to get back into photography like I was before I rediscovered my long love affair with my guitar! I used to take my Canon cameras (I started out with the T5i and upgraded to the 6D Mk II) with me wherever I went but now I only shoot weddings and an occasional flower or a senior for a family member. Since I started composing and recording ambient guitar my camera sits alone on a shelf gathering dust (not really, it’s covered, but a little dramatic phraseology for emphasis is ok). 😎🎸😎
Well TC, as much as I love my photography I'm not going to be the one who tries to tempt you to put away your guitars as I admire your music so much. Just maybe uncover your camera every once in a while? Stay safe my friend.
@@photographyforenjoyment Indeed I should “uncover it every once in a while!” 😎
Point on the filter issue - some 52mm filters don't seem to work with the lens at all. You can screw them in place when the lens is properly zoomed and focused, but the rim of the filter then prevents the lens from moving, getting stuck if the front element tries to move back.
Yes Juusteli that is a fact and it's down to the slightly odd physical construction of the focusing ring. It is a pretty good performer, but shows it's age coming from an era when zooms were still viewed with suspicion.
Great review
Thank you Ricky, both for watching and commenting.
Hi Alan, recently bought one, I'm new in film photography, wondered if you could explain me what does the little red inscriptions (70, "50" and 35) just in front of the focus ring means?
Thanks!
Hi Lucas, I am delighted to welcome a newcomer to photography! Those numbers refer to the zoom settings for the lens. Obviously you can see the zooming effect when you look through the cameras viewfinder, so those inscribed numbers give you a quick visual check before putting the camera up to the eye. Most zoom lenses of that era had similar markings. If you have any other questions on any topic, please feel free to reach out, and thanks for watching!
@@photographyforenjoyment I obviously understand that the white marks on the zoom ring indicate me my settings before I look into the viewfinder, but I don't understand the signification of the littles red ones, those who are placed between the zoom ring and the focus ring, I don't know if they have an incidence or if I don't have to mind them
Maybe I'm not clear enough in which case I apologise haha, I hadn't any difficulty to use it, zooming or focusing (for now), there's just those little red inscriptions that intrigue me because I don't understand how to read them, what do they tell me in which situation etc.. thanks 🙏🏻
Sorry Lucas I misunderstood your question! Those smaller red markings indicate focus point at the different zoom settings. In common with many zooms of the same period, the point of focus changes as you alter the zoom amount, so once again these will give you a visual check on distances at the 35/50/70 settings. I would suggest that to all intents and purposes you can ignore them.
@@photographyforenjoyment okay I see, thanks
So basically the yellow mark at the middle doesn't really show me my focus point, I theoretically have to read on the zoom ring my actual zoom, look at the red marks where it correspond and then see on the focus ring the focus point it says to me right?
I effectively feel like I can ignore them cause of the small correction it is in reality, but I wanted to understand what it exactly mean to know how to completely read my lens!
Yes Lucas, those markings really are just for reference. They MAY be useful when trying to understand Depth of Field but to all intents and purposes, when looking through the lens you can ignore them. DoF is something you will get to learn as you progress!
Hi Alan, if using these zoom lenses on a Panasonic or Olympus camera that allows the user to set the in body stabilisation, would it be better to simply turn the stabilisation off, and just use an appropriate shutter speed , or maybe set stabilisation for the longer focusing length, assuming will will be zooming in and out? The stabilisation works fine with a prime, but using a legacy zoom offers a different challenge.
That's a really interesting question Steve. Personally, with a short zoom like the 35-70 I would tend to set I.S. for something toward the longer end of the scale and then zoom accordingly. However, certainly with longer zooms the I.S. would probably work against you, so my instinct would be to turn it off. Great question and if anybody out there has some other ideas or suggestions, let's hear them!
IS THIS LENSE COMPATIBLE WITH CANON 7D ?
NO, sadly this is the old manual focus 'FD' lens mount, you would need a lens with the 'EF' mount.
Very interesting and enjoyable video as always, I'm just curious to know how much Nick is charging you as a rental fee for the lens. After looking at the photos that you shared and doing my usual scientific analysis I can positively determine that the ones in focus are in focus and that the out of focus are indeed out of focus. You mentioned selling these lenses, did you work for Canon or at a camera store? Be well and stay safe.
Ha! well done for spotting the out of focus ones Enrique... I actually (over quite a few years) worked in 4 different camera stores, it just so happens that when Canon launched the 'T' series they proved very popular.
there is no fee per se - but Alan does provide me with cartoon images of Dexter on demand!! well, when I say "on demand" he's sent me one once. as business models go, it's not been my best effort...
I'll have to come up with a better cartoon or else I'll be in trouble with Dexter! 😉
@@duringthemeanwhilst LOL, I remember seeing the cartoon and it was very well done.
@@photographyforenjoyment LOL, I remember seeing the cartoon and it was very well done, you're very talented.
Hi! I have one question. If focal length (50mm f1,4) on M4/3 go from 50mm to 100mm because 2x crop factor, what about f stop? Is It the same f1,4, or double f2,8? Thank you in advance!
Hello Kreso and thank you for the question! f-stops are relative to the LENS and are expressed as a ratio between focal length and the maximum diameter of the optics. However, when it comes to EFFECTIVE apertures, the sensor size does make a difference when it comes to depth of field. If you had a 50mm f2 lens designed for a film camera or FF digital, then mounted on a M43 body it would effectively become a 100mm f4. This article might be worth a read; www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care
@@photographyforenjoyment Thank you Alan!
Great upload 👍🔔
Thank you for commenting, much appreciated!
What the hell is SOOC?
Hello Joao and thanks for the question. It means Straight Out Of Camera. We get so used to these acronyms that we forget to explain them! So SOOC are basically unedited images. Apologies for any confusion!
@@photographyforenjoyment thanks.