So I was given a small trailer that has this engine and it’s used for an air compressor. It has the ID for the 16 hp B&S @3600 RPM & 531 CC & a 4 cycle engine oh and 531 CC AND IT RRADS THAT ITS A COMMERCIAL/ industrial motor . So I bought a lawnmower battery for it and she will start and crank and then run slightly with starting fluid . I was having trouble to get the correct model number and ya just gave it on here . The ole numbers that weren’t to readable almost match the numbers that you shared . So I’m certain that mines the same as that one . Now to order a carburetor and I guess points and spark plug and new fuel line . I don’t have any knowledge on how to do the heads as you were talking about , I guess I’ll search the internet on a some videos from different folks on how to do it . Thanks for sharing your knowledge Senor.
I have just rebuilt one of these and cant figure out the decompression. There is no centrifugal weight mechanism and the starter/ gen will not spin it through start cycle.🤨🙄🤔
Failure is all part of learning my Friend! So long as the lesson is learned, it's ultimately a win. Thanks much for the props! I enjoy teaching as much as I do learning. Cheers! Zip~
Can I send a picture of my Montgomery wards 16 horse brings and Stratton cast iron garden tractor I need your help.. On the grumpy engine mine is agzackle all most.. just one different # number on the shroud I can't get parts cause of that zippo
got two of them that are BOTH grumps. both need carb work i'm sure. Thought I would try to "rebuild" them because the one was leaky and after cleaning and replacing gaskets it just wont fire. pour a little gas in and it will pop and run until the gas runs out and it quits again. Since it is pull start (with a rope) it does not take long to wear out your arm.
I fabricated a pulley to mount to a heavy duty 1/2" drill to start the pull start only engines in my collection. Does your flywheel boosted fan have a groove in it that will accept a belt? Also, make sure you haven't sheared the flywheel key. That flywheel nut has to be VERY tight, or often, the first pop will shear it. Just FYI. Keep us posted SSG! Zip~
Conveniently, it's the same thickness as a standard business card, which is what the majority of us use since the feeler gauges are not as flexible. Zip~
Cooling shrouds are about the only part of these old Briggs cast iron engines that actually become deteriorated especially on Simplicity tractors ( mostly because most look at removing the engine as too much work and would junk one before making the effort ) I can take out a Briggs cast iron from a simplicity in about 1 to 2 hours , mostly because I am a simplicity fan. Well anyway Zippo the cooling shrouds are just not parted out intact because most are rusted out badly and it seems more and more like I will have to repair the existing shroud
Man, I'd love to have one of those old 32 CI cast-iron Briggs! Think B&S still makes that model in China for that market (at least they did 20 years ago).
They still do. It's an 18hp version used on boats mostly. You can get the 18hp, but with out a couple components that aren't EPA approved. Cheers Cruse! Zip~
Got a similar engine here. It's a 243431 which has been standing for a long time. I cleaned up the carburetor couple of times, cleaned up the jets etc.. the bowl if gunk free but it stills runs very poorly. It only runs on choke and when I give it a bit too much throttle it dies. Buying a new carb in Europe is expensive so rather fool a bit around with the old one. Can you maybe give me a hint to look for? Thanks. :)
I've got numerous Carburetor rebuild videos on my channel. Just go to my home page then search my videos for Carburetor. You'll find at least 6 on these carburetors. Best of luck! Zip~
So your gonna clean her up? Thanks! I love these old engines, got 1 with regular generator/strtr on it and started to clean her up. If you could tell me about the linkage, mine being similar to urs with the adjustable governor rod, having a nut threaded. Is there a spring from gov arm to throttle and is governor held against the internal rod that moves back'n forth as the weights fly outwards, As I understand it a medium size spring hold gov arm downwards to keep pressure on the actuating part of the gov that works the gov. arm, overwise with a bit of play, engine speed would be somewhat higher and maybe hunting? Thanks very much, I sincerely appreciate your help.
when u said 85lb compression but means bout130 what did u mean,i have same motor,with 90lbs but after using for awhile and shut off then try restart it takes for ever to run again
These engines have a compression release at low RPM to make it easier for them to spin over, which is why you'll have lower than true compression numbers when testing because the RPM during start cycle is lower than what it takes to overcome the decompression cam spring. Your hard start issue could be due to one or two things. Improperly tuned carburetor or improperly set points. Check both as per my videos and keep us posted on the engines health. Zip~
nice i did search only 1 rocked up in oz $26au and its on worldwide rest is car 1s mmmm stuff knows ill get 1 and see if i can get that other motor going cheers
This engine came from the factory with a ring gear starter and internal alternator. They are easily converted to Starter Generator operated engines simply by removing the bendix starter, disconnecting the internal alternator and implementing a regulator. Cheers! Zip~
You can go to the Briggs and Stratton web sight and by entering your engine model number (which will be either stamped into the blower housing OR riveted to the blower housing. ) and get your engines IPL (Individual Parts Listing) manual. There, you can order any part you need simply by entering THAT part number into Google and you'll get plenty of results. Personally, I use Partstree.com. Good Luck! Zip~
Good morning. Does the points eliminator work on the older models 9, 14, 19 and 23s with the Magna Matic type coil ? Finding points are always a problem for these motors. I am currently working on adapting modern automotive points to these engines. As always I enjoy your videos.
Unfortunately, they don't. The points are also, as you stated, getting harder to find. I feel your pain...many of my engines are the older models you mention. Zip~
Ok! I have a 15 horse Briggs on a I believe a 72 sears ss , I looked up on a Briggs chart for head bolt torque , it says 190 inch pounds " does that sound correct ? Or did I look it up wrong?" Model number 325431"
Close enough! Most are 196 inch lbs Jules. Be sure to alternate torquing them down (cris cross pattern) to get the head drawn down evenly and retorque after a few hours of operation. Zip~
ZippoVarga ok !! Thanks a lot!! Part of my confusion was I seen on one of your videos to torque the head bolts to 25 ft pounds" and on the conversion chart I came up with 25 ft pounds came to 300 inch pounds" and the chart I used from Briggs says 190 inch pounds" I must of done something wrong"
25ft lbs is the torque spec for newer engines, namely the Intek's and Vanguard's with push rods and rocker arms in the heads. All of the older L head (Flat Head) engines get the 196in lb. Good catch and it's great that you're making sure before hand too. Any other info, just shoot me a comment Jules. Zip~
ZippoVarga ok!!! Yeah"! Just wanted to be sure "!! But thanks a lot !!! I do appreciate all your help !!!! Will most likely bother you some more in near future "!!! Thanks again!!'
I had to put part II on the back burner and hope to get back to it by Wednesday. Service calls abound! This is the #7 16hp in the shop that is operational (but needs work), and #8 is in pieces. I'll dig it out when I can and get to work on it, then all the 16hp will be ready to go. Cheers Sir Moto! Zip~
So I was given a small trailer that has this engine and it’s used for an air compressor.
It has the ID for the 16 hp B&S @3600 RPM & 531 CC & a 4 cycle engine oh and 531 CC AND IT RRADS THAT ITS A COMMERCIAL/ industrial motor .
So I bought a lawnmower battery for it and she will start and crank and then run slightly with starting fluid .
I was having trouble to get the correct model number and ya just gave it on here .
The ole numbers that weren’t to readable almost match the numbers that you shared . So I’m certain that mines the same as that one . Now to order a carburetor and I guess points and spark plug and new fuel line .
I don’t have any knowledge on how to do the heads as you were talking about , I guess I’ll search the internet on a some videos from different folks on how to do it . Thanks for sharing your knowledge Senor.
I have just rebuilt one of these and cant figure out the decompression. There is no centrifugal weight mechanism and the starter/ gen will not spin it through start cycle.🤨🙄🤔
I think , it's cool the way you explain thing
And when or if you're doing something wrong you addmit it and say excuse me oops
Failure is all part of learning my Friend! So long as the lesson is learned, it's ultimately a win. Thanks much for the props! I enjoy teaching as much as I do learning. Cheers! Zip~
Can I send a picture of my Montgomery wards 16 horse brings and Stratton cast iron garden tractor I need your help..
On the grumpy engine mine is agzackle all most.. just one different # number on the shroud
I can't get parts cause of that zippo
Email me Mike. ZippoVarga@gmail.com
@@ZippoVarga you bet👍
got two of them that are BOTH grumps. both need carb work i'm sure. Thought I would try to "rebuild" them because the one was leaky and after cleaning and replacing gaskets it just wont fire. pour a little gas in and it will pop and run until the gas runs out and it quits again. Since it is pull start (with a rope) it does not take long to wear out your arm.
I fabricated a pulley to mount to a heavy duty 1/2" drill to start the pull start only engines in my collection. Does your flywheel boosted fan have a groove in it that will accept a belt? Also, make sure you haven't sheared the flywheel key. That flywheel nut has to be VERY tight, or often, the first pop will shear it. Just FYI. Keep us posted SSG! Zip~
Nice job
Can I ask what is the clearance or gage between the coil and flywheel
Thanks
Conveniently, it's the same thickness as a standard business card, which is what the majority of us use since the feeler gauges are not as flexible. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thanks for responding
Your advice is vert helpful on the restauration of my MTD 990
Appreciate tour work
Does 10 to 16hp cast iron briggs use the same engine shroud? , my 10 hp shroud is completely rotted away on the bottom
No sir, there are minor differences and you'll need to source a 10 or 11hp shroud. Zip~
Cooling shrouds are about the only part of these old Briggs cast iron engines that actually become deteriorated especially on Simplicity tractors ( mostly because most look at removing the engine as too much work and would junk one before making the effort ) I can take out a Briggs cast iron from a simplicity in about 1 to 2 hours , mostly because I am a simplicity fan.
Well anyway Zippo the cooling shrouds are just not parted out intact because most are rusted out badly and it seems more and more like I will have to repair the existing shroud
Sir I have question where can we find the model number of this Briggs 16hp
Man, I'd love to have one of those old 32 CI cast-iron Briggs! Think B&S still makes that model in China for that market (at least they did 20 years ago).
They still do. It's an 18hp version used on boats mostly. You can get the 18hp, but with out a couple components that aren't EPA approved. Cheers Cruse! Zip~
Como acho peças e quando precisar mudar um sistema para outro
I have one of those gems on my lincoln weldanpower 225 welder. If she could cook dinner I would marry her. I love that engine.
They are awesome engines for sure Andrew. Dependable, gobs of power and it's hard to kill one so long as you keep feeding it oil and gas. Cheers! Zip~
Would you sell me that muffler??
I have a couple of them, but they are not in the best of shape.
Ok show me what you have I need it
@@ZippoVarga let me know I need asap
Got a similar engine here. It's a 243431 which has been standing for a long time. I cleaned up the carburetor couple of times, cleaned up the jets etc.. the bowl if gunk free but it stills runs very poorly. It only runs on choke and when I give it a bit too much throttle it dies. Buying a new carb in Europe is expensive so rather fool a bit around with the old one. Can you maybe give me a hint to look for? Thanks. :)
I've got numerous Carburetor rebuild videos on my channel. Just go to my home page then search my videos for Carburetor. You'll find at least 6 on these carburetors. Best of luck! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Thank you for your reply! Will have a look. Thanks!
So your gonna clean her up? Thanks! I love these old engines, got 1 with regular
generator/strtr on it and started to clean her up. If you could tell me about the linkage,
mine being similar to urs with the adjustable governor rod, having a nut threaded.
Is there a spring from gov arm to throttle and is governor held against the internal
rod that moves back'n forth as the weights fly outwards, As I understand it a medium
size spring hold gov arm downwards to keep pressure on the actuating part of the gov
that works the gov. arm, overwise with a bit of play, engine speed would be somewhat
higher and maybe hunting? Thanks very much, I sincerely appreciate your help.
Cool
when u said 85lb compression but means bout130 what did u mean,i have same motor,with 90lbs but after using for awhile and shut off then try restart it takes for ever to run again
These engines have a compression release at low RPM to make it easier for them to spin over, which is why you'll have lower than true compression numbers when testing because the RPM during start cycle is lower than what it takes to overcome the decompression cam spring. Your hard start issue could be due to one or two things. Improperly tuned carburetor or improperly set points. Check both as per my videos and keep us posted on the engines health. Zip~
nice
i did search only 1 rocked up in oz $26au and its on worldwide rest is car 1s mmmm stuff knows
ill get 1 and see if i can get that other motor going
cheers
Do you know why, with some engines with starter generators, why they put ring gear flywheels on them??
This engine came from the factory with a ring gear starter and internal alternator. They are easily converted to Starter Generator operated engines simply by removing the bendix starter, disconnecting the internal alternator and implementing a regulator. Cheers! Zip~
lol....I guess I didn't get up early enough to beat ya to the punch! lol...Cheers Subpar! Zip~
Where did you get your parts from like a head gasket for this same engine.
You can go to the Briggs and Stratton web sight and by entering your engine model number (which will be either stamped into the blower housing OR riveted to the blower housing. ) and get your engines IPL (Individual Parts Listing) manual. There, you can order any part you need simply by entering THAT part number into Google and you'll get plenty of results. Personally, I use Partstree.com. Good Luck! Zip~
Good morning. Does the points eliminator work on the older models 9, 14, 19 and 23s with the Magna Matic type coil ? Finding points are always a problem for these motors. I am currently working on adapting modern automotive points to these engines. As always I enjoy your videos.
Unfortunately, they don't. The points are also, as you stated, getting harder to find. I feel your pain...many of my engines are the older models you mention. Zip~
Number
Ok! I have a 15 horse Briggs on a I believe a 72 sears ss , I looked up on a Briggs chart for head bolt torque , it says 190 inch pounds " does that sound correct ? Or did I look it up wrong?" Model number 325431"
Close enough! Most are 196 inch lbs Jules. Be sure to alternate torquing them down (cris cross pattern) to get the head drawn down evenly and retorque after a few hours of operation. Zip~
ZippoVarga ok !! Thanks a lot!! Part of my confusion was I seen on one of your videos to torque the head bolts to 25 ft pounds" and on the conversion chart I came up with 25 ft pounds came to 300 inch pounds" and the chart I used from Briggs says 190 inch pounds" I must of done something wrong"
25ft lbs is the torque spec for newer engines, namely the Intek's and Vanguard's with push rods and rocker arms in the heads. All of the older L head (Flat Head) engines get the 196in lb. Good catch and it's great that you're making sure before hand too. Any other info, just shoot me a comment Jules. Zip~
ZippoVarga ok!!! Yeah"! Just wanted to be sure "!! But thanks a lot !!! I do appreciate all your help !!!! Will most likely bother you some more in near future "!!! Thanks again!!'
Wow that is pretty beat up mine is 2 years older and looks nicer but I sure like those old 16Hp Briggs.
I had to put part II on the back burner and hope to get back to it by Wednesday. Service calls abound! This is the #7 16hp in the shop that is operational (but needs work), and #8 is in pieces. I'll dig it out when I can and get to work on it, then all the 16hp will be ready to go. Cheers Sir Moto! Zip~