I had to search back through RUclips to find these videos, great information,. on my way to rebuild a 1960's Garden Mark Squire 9 by Simplicity Carb and these videos are priceless. Thanks Zippo for the time and information, I really appreciate it.
We got the carb kit and performed a successful rebuild thanks to your video. Really thank you. It was a great help. Since I have seen most of your videos, I wanted to share one of mine with you. Here is my son Scott on his grandfathers Allis Chalmers B-110 (that my late father bought new). Enjoy... Scott pulling day 2. 950lb class. He took it to the Banks (Oregon) Tractor Pull last year. I don't see many of these tractors. You don't even have one like this that I have seen. Now we have this AC B-110 and the Landlord 2012 (cousin's,,, sisters?) and a greater appreciation for them, thanks to you. They will both be going to the pull this summer.
My apologies for not seeing or replying to this sooner! I was a diehard Wheel Horse guy until a Simplicity landed in my fleet. It didn't take long before the Wheel Horses were history and I was building my Simplicity and Allis fleet. The single tractor I restored to showroom new was a 3212V, which is the Simplicity equal to your B-110. I prefer the earlier models which resemble your 2012, so no flat hoods are in my collection. I'm off to view your Son Scott pulling! Cheers!! And Thanks for the compliments!! Zip~
man i like you ,your are a rare dyeing breed , ive got one of these on mixer and just cleaned and adj, wish i had found you sooner , im building homemade small mill and i love these old engines , thanks again
Thanks for sharing your experience. 25 years ago I was in the small engine/mower repair biz and knew all this stuff. I picked up an 1970-71 141-960 MTD GT a few days ago. Today I'm going to start working on it. I bought a new fuel tank shut off valve and a J19LM. I'll find out in a few hours what kind of shape I'm in with the carb, spark & compression. So fare I just needed the adjustment settings for the carb but it was great getting a review for a rebuild. Thanks again for your efforts.
You put out great info. This is the second time I have looked up guidance from you. My son and I are restoring a Simplicity Landlord 2012. I have a carb kit on the way for it and I'm doing my research now. Thank you for what you do for us shade-tree types.
Sean I really like your videos. I know nothing about engines but you are teaching me. I really enjoy your videos. You are truly a great person my Friend. I hope you are doing well.
Thanks for the help! The tank and lines had already been replaced. I've always been good at keeping engines and such running great but never did any big work on them. I got an old Wheel Horse garden tractor and the engine on it is a B&S 7hp from 1973. Amazes me how well these engines run after so long.
Very glad you were able to stop the dreaded leaking Flo-Jet Up Draft!! They're notorious for leaking and most don't know the fuel actually sneaks by the main jet and assume it's the float that is the problem. When I learned of this anomaly, all my dripping carb woes were gone. The least I could do was to share my lesson here. Cheers!!! Zip~
Dude! Awesome, im looking for my specialty screwdriver but I just ID'd one I can grind away.. I love all your videos. like you im disabled, blown up too many times cant see shite anymore outa my one good eye, right side all busted up, right hand nearly useless due to arthritis and previous injuries but I have never been one to sit around, and I do it all over again but I appreciate guys like you that take time too mentor, would love to be your neighbor haha...
If I couldn't do something, my mind would get soft. Like you, I've had my fair share of damage done to my body, but we just have to keep plugging along! Cheers Dude! Zip~
Great video. I just picked up a used Giant Vac leaf blower with an 8hp B&S with what looks like that same exact carb. I wasn't sure what the starting point was for setting those screws. It didn't run at all when I got it but after tinkering with it for a while I got it going. But still not where it should be. I did notice some fuel leaking around the bottom where you said to check. I guess I need to tighten that main jet and then reseat the adjustment screw and back off 1.5 turns. I haven't been able to run the blower off of choke yet. I'll mess with it again tomorrow.
Hi Ken. Unfortunately, it's very difficult to chase the threads and repair them. The pot metal the carb bodies are made of is very unforgiving and damages easily. I suggest checking small engine collectors web sights and eBay for a good replacement lower carb body. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. The special screw driver is a must to make when dealing with these fragile pot metal carburetors. Cheers!
Hey, Love your vids! I have a 3310 landlord that's losing engine speed while mowing. Is seems like the rpms are too low. Car was rebuilt and setup, governor was set up, all with help from your videos!
THANK YOU! I got my 1968 Rugg, 6.5HP Brigs & Stratton running, and fuck do I love it. Carbs always confuse the shit out of me, and thanks for your vid it runs like fucking new now!
Hey thanks for the video ive been working on an 8 horse briggs 91 model with that carb and baught a rebuild kit and replaced everything on it and before and after i did the rebuild it would always flood the carb with gas i didnt know why i checked the needle and float and then i seen your video and the main jet if i would always leak gas into the lower part of the carb then its that main jet i didnt know that untill i seen this video i checked it and it fixed my problem Thank you!
hey bud I think you're doing a great job anyway we can get you to finish putting on springs and throttle levers. I didn't mark the spots where I needed to place them on a vintage Briggs & Stratton
You're on the right track with adjusting the screws to keep it running. As you adjust them you'll find the sweet spot where it idles nice and ramps up smoothly. Best advice is to "tinker" with the settings. The baseline is 2 turns out on each, then you can fine tune from there. Some engines like the factory setting and others need a little tweak. Best of luck!! Cheers!
Two possibilities come to mind. The engines exhaust valve is burned up and needing replaced/re ground or you have the fuel mixture too rich. Turn the main jet screw clockwise until the engine starts to falter, then open it back up 1/4 turn. At night and in low light, these engines produce enough heat that you can actually see the mufflers glowing red hot. If it's not backfiring, I would rule out valve problems and concentrate on fine tuning the carb. Hope this is helpful! Cheers!!
Thanks Bill! Part three is still downloading...I have my good and bad days, but I live for those asking for help on here. It helps motivate me to get out and move a little..lol. I'm surprised I don't weigh 1000 pounds! Thanks for the motivation my Friend!!
My B&S 5hp won't idle unless the choke is on 1/3 to 1/2.... at such a point it idles nicely Googling says this is because of a lean mixture. Adjusting the idle mixture screw seems to do nothing. I've blown it out with JB blaster and it seems to go through. New diaphram, cleaned out float bowl, gas tank, and main jet with a small electrical wire thread. Of course, I can't run it with 1/3 choke on, because if I accelerate it stumbles because the choke is on making the mixture too rich.
Watched several of your videos many times and have a BS 16hp able to start and run but can never take off the choke completely. moves through the speed range decently. went through carb as you have shown
If the male threads of the main body of the main jet are not stripped going into the lower part of the carb, I suggest getting a replacement and not tapping anything. The carb kits are cheap and you'll have peace of mind that it's done right.
ebay is always a great resource for finding these carbs. You can use the three or four bolt carb and just dial back the main jet if you get the 4 bolt. If it needs rebuilt, you can also find the kits on ebay. Hope this helps!
Heya Bruce.....if you take the upper part of the carb and set it on the face that connects to the intake elbow (up side down) then the float should be perfectly level. Gently bend the tab that makes contact with the needle until you achieve this level plane. I sometimes even let the opposite side from the needle set a 1/16 inch or so higher than where the float connects to the carb body. If you continue to have trouble, you may look into how well the needle is seating. Let me know how it goes!
Hey Charles...I've got a little trick I use to get flywheels off. I've had a couple people say. DON'T DO THAT!!! You'll screw up the bearings!!! No worries though...What they don't understand is how I'm doing it only frees the flywheel and puts no stress on the connecting rod, bearings or bearing plates. I'll get a vid up the next time I have to take one apart. Later my long distance Friend!
Take the main jet screw assembly out and see if fuel pours out, if not, you're not getting gas to the engine. So check your fuel lines. If they're old, replace them and make sure the fuel tank is clean of debris. Also, the gas tank has to be higher than the level of the fuel bowl on the carb. After all that, give her a go. You may have to turn the main jet in or out until you get the engine to pop like it wants to start, then keep adjusting until it will start. Also slowly open the choke.
I've got basically the same carb you have here (main components anyway, slightly different air intake). Set the fuel and Idle valve to 1 1/2 and back and forth but it's still not kicking over. Idle is open and set as well. Cleaned it, rebuilt. New jet, needle, gaskets.. Whole nine yards. It wants to go but just won't get there.
Zippo thanks for your help you're right The fuel line was too long and it created an air gap works well now but now I have a leak coming from the glass petcock bowl at the bottom of the gas tank now to look for a O-ring for that
hey Dave! Keep a check on ebay. The three bolt carbs are smaller than the 4 bowl bolt pattern carbs. They do pop up regularly on there. You can also put in classifieds on the tractor forums. Good luck!!
If you haven't, run new fuel lines with at least a 150 micron filter in line. Check the gas tank for any sediment. If there is any, drain the tank using the old gas line and clean the tank out. Make sure the fuel level in the tank is higher than the carburetor then start the engine. As you open the choke, slowly turn the main jet (Bottom) counter clockwise until the engine runs with the choke off. Then see if it will throttle up and down smoothly.
It sounds like either the fuel line or pick up tube is partially clogged. With your 5hp, the tank is attached to the carb if I'm not mistaken. Remove the tank and make sure it's good and clean and at that time, you can clean the filter screen at the base of the pick up tube and make sure it's not causing part of your problem. Best of luck with your engine!
If your carburetor has 4 screws attaching the upper to lower bodies (or three if it's an early 65, which by the serial number, it looks to be), then just search ebay for Up Draft carm rebuild and you will get a ton of reasonably priced rebuild kits. They are universal kits, so just look for the bowl to upper 4 (or 3) screw gasket and you can't go wrong. Typically, the kits come with both the two and three bolt gaskets, so you should be fine. The Spring is necessary for the governor. Continued...
Mine is rebuilt, all of your boxes are checked...when I pull the cord, it will cough once, then next pull coughs or pops 4 times, then it acts like it's flooded and doesn't even pop.. I pull the plug and it's dry, it's gapped at 29 to 30 and I can't figure out what's going on. I've tried to spray some starting fluid in it. Your instructionals are very clear, hoping I'm as clear in seeking your help to get this monster started. 1960 Briggs & Stratton 6 and 1/2 horsepower updraft carb just like yours
zippo after all the fuss i went thru with my 8 horsepower briggs i discovered i had to raise the fuel tank a few inches,i believe the tank was put on and engine would never run for well................anyway, the carb is gravity fed and fuel dont run up-hill. after raising the fuel tank it runs beutifully. this is a rare thing but worth noting, joe
Thanks for your instructions I definatly get my fuel leakage of my motor. I had to remove the high fuel tube off 4 times and blow a little bit of compress air and retighten quite a bit and now everything is working good. And a the last question I ask about charging system I discover that the diode was broke and loosing the power when the motor was running. Now here a question. when the motor is running I have a lot of vibration and I tought that may be if I put some rubber shims under the motor will help a bit. Thank you from Denis.
+Denis Poulin Don't do that Denis. The engine is in perfect alignment with the drive shaft and rear gear box. Raising the engine will cause all kinds of bad things to happen. These engines vibrate. They always have. I'm glad you got the carburetor fixed. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks Ram! The last one just finished uploading and I'm fixing to make fun of my self a little where I totally blanked out for a few seconds...lol. Thanks again Buddy!!
I have the 8 horse Briggs and Stratton with the upjet carb and am a little bit in a bind when it comes to the governor and adjusting it, their is a nut on a bolt that's got a spring that's connected and not sure on it's proper setting also the idle adjust screw setting
Hi Troy. I have a video on the vertical engines as well as many more on the horizontal crank shaft engines. Try a search and if you come up empty handed, let me know and I'll see if I can help further. Is your engine a vertical crank shaft engine or horizontal? Zip~
You might get lucky and be able to rebuild your carb as long as you didn't damage the port that the main jet goes into (long tube). Typically, there are only two culprits to a leaking carb. The main jet isn't seated well or the float needle isn't closing off the fuel supply as it should. Best of luck and I hope this helps you out! Cheers!!
@YellowFordTruck The carb shouldn't leak very much at the bowl gasket. It sounds like the needle and seat and float are to blame for your problems. Disassemble the carb as per my videos and purchase a carb rebuild kit. Don't use gasket maker, it will compound your problems. Check that everything moves freely and that your float doesn't have a hole in it. Often, you can get away with reusing the old bowl to body gasket, but don't use any gasket sealer or maker on the carb at all.
If you stripped the threads on the carb body it self, you need to replace the carb. The main jet inside the carb uses those same threads and it's a recipe for disaster if you ever have to rebuild or replace the main jet. It's unfortunate, but the carb bodies can be found cheaper than a whole carb, which may be another option. I suggest ebay or jackssmallengine dott comm for a lower carb body.
My snow blower Gilson with 8 hp working only on chock ?.When I pull chock out ,then he starting to chocking engine and working very bad,but on little open chock working good when engine is hot already ?🤔.What is wrong with that ?
Hey Zippo Iam not getting any action on my throttle at carb when I move lever on dash. The governor rod moves but not the arm that move throttle on carb. Cheers Eric💈
Hi Sir. I have this carb and its flooding with gas, as you say at 3.45. Gas comes out the bottom of the air filter etc. When I screwed the needle valve in after cleaning it, I simply screwed it till it was seated all the way in. When you say "back it out" should I just try backing it out half a turn and then retry and repeat the process if necessary, until it no longer floods? Is this what you mean? Would really appreciate your advice, if you could kindly spare the time to give it. Love your channel. I have a 1972 Honda CL125 by the way. Fixing it up now - another longer term project.
Without seeing the assembly, I can only speculate here. Check that the old needle and new needle are identical in length and that the float tabs that the stainless pin goes through are not bent. If you have the needle to float spring installed, try assembling with out this part. Did you install the new brass seat that came in the kit? These are for the newer 4 bolt carbs, so you shouldn't have had the need to install it. Let me know. Cheers!
Excellent videos. Just rebuilt my carb and now that the motor runs, there is a small flame coming out of the muffler. 8hp Briggs. What is going on there?
Hello thank you so much for this video it helped me to understand my engine. I rebuild my carb and the whole engine and it still seems that i may not have gas getting into the engine. It will fire when i put starting fluid in it so i do have spark. I also set my idle speed so i dont know who to look for next. If you could give me an idea of where to start i would appreciate it. Thanks
What is this engine on? I have a 1970 something Speedex garden tractor and I'm trying to find out the serial/model of the engine. My carb looks just like yours except it has a high idle screw instead of a thumb screw. The vid helped and I'm gonna rebuild the carb and go from there but it would be nice to know the numbers to order parts.
Thanks! Now I stripped out the female threads on the drain screw on bottom of carb. If I retap to next larger size, will that metal crack. Suggestions for fixing?
i have several briggs cast carbs like in the video. i have a problem with them always dripping gas. i have had the main jet out several times. it look to be only seating on the upper seat. any idea how to fix. thanks mat ps your videos are very helpful
Will carb leakage cause engine not to fire. I have good spark, it was running then stopped out of the blue, rope broke, now with new fuel and good spark it still will not fire. 8 hp briggs and stratton snowblower. Thanks, Gary
Zippo- I have an old gilson with a briggs 326437 (16hp single cast iron, etc.) It ran fine for years, then for a few months it wouldn't start, but if I blew a shot of starting fluid in the air cleaner it would start and then run fine. Now, It will only run on starting fluid. I can drive it around the yard if I keep squirting starting fluid in the air cleaner, but it won't run by itself. I've taken the carb apart twice, soaked it, cleaned it, blew it out, and everything looks good in there as far as I can tell. Any ideas? I'm stumped.
Chances are, that the fuel line needs replaced and/or the gas tank needs cleaned out. Since it ran fine and these carbs rely partly on vacuum suction, an occlusion in the fuel delivery can cause this problem. Keep us posted! Cheers!! Zip~
I have a 16hp briggs cast iron that I want to use for a go kart build. If I remove governor, add billet flywheel will I be safe from any dangerous blow offs? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated!
Cast Iron Briggs and Stratton Carb Rebuild. Thanks for the great video. I have the same engine and was rebuilding the carbonator because the gas was leaking out. I got the rebuild kit and started to assemble it but noticed that the float did not go back to the original position and was rubbing on the float bowl. It was sitting to high on the needle valve. I did not want to bent the tab that hits the needle valve to much more that it was already. Any hints why it is sitting higher than it should
I have 2 david bradley walk behinds, one with a 2 horse model n and one with a 5 horse model 14. Both carbs need rebuilt. Where can I find kits for these? both are from the early to mid '50's. TY
thanks for this video set very informative. i have a model br6 that had been sitting 20 plus years outside i took the carb apart and cleaned it, sunk the float in a bucket of water for a while and it didnt take on any water, all the gaskets seamed good enough to reuse and didnt brake when comming apart, none of the needles were worn from being over tightened, i set the float parallel... i've got it all back together but its pouring fuel out of the air intake/cleaner side. when i say pouring i mean its like i just ran an open fuel line out of it. i pulled the needle out and reseated it like you stated and still pouring fuel out, i then pulled the carb back apart and re set the float a little lower in the bowl thinking maybe it was just badly flooding itself (although the engine runs very good even with fuel pouring out) got it back together and still pouring fuel out. you have any suggestions? any help would be awsome
Long explanation short. Over time, the material the carbs are made of begin to pit. Put an in line fuel shut off between the tank and engine and always remember to shut it off before shutting the engine off. Or, find/buy a new carb and install it. Most likely, the float is fine and fuel is seeping past the main jet.
Hello Zippo. I have a quick question on a Flo Jet. Someone brought me a old Powermate generator with a 11 HP I/C briggs with the 4 bolt flo Jet for service. It runs fine with full choke and dies with it off. Being there are not a whole lot of passages on these carbs, what would be the cause? Emulsion tube clogged at the little side ports? I have worked on hundreds of carbs, but, never a Flo Jet. Thanks
we have a couple of those carbs on a couple simplicity's we have, we cant get either of them to idle up we have tried everything clean and adjusting would you know whats wrong?
Please help , my carb is similar, someone took it off for me, but they're not around so I'm trying to figure out the placement of the long wire piece and choke cable placement
Zippo, I bought a new carb. Briggs model 390323. my question to you is how are the initial jet, idle and fuel screws set? Do I install and start then begin to make adjustments? thanks!!
I bought a tractor figured the carb was dirty. Bought new carb. Installed. It does same thing. Runs for a second and dies. Changed fuel line and checked flow Seems to be flowing just fine. But only runs when dump gas in carb
Hello Zippo, I have a old B&S 8 hp motor. The coil is bad (meter shows coil is open). I have been to every small engine parts stores in Augusta Ga with no luck. One even looked in old paper parts books (they were stored in a dusty trailer). Bottom line is I have had no luck even identifying this coil. There are no numbers anywhere on the motor. Can I send you a picture of this coil? If so how? Hate to retire this motor because it runs (ran) great and is (was) very easy to start.
i NEED your HeLp bady! my gas tank is emptying into the oil crankcase after sitting for awhile....i had to change out the oil/gas with fresh oil-seems my float isnt set right and cant find anything to adjust this! ive had the carb apart several times already-and everything appears to be good in there-i just cant seem to figure out how to adjust the float to stop it from overflowing and emptying the gas tank! then once i figure that out-i can adjust those other three screws to tune the generator-
hi zippo> great vids. Im working working on my grandfathers old simplicity. it has a cast iron 12hp briggs from 88. electric start. one day it died and sat until i got some confedance to try and fix it. im took the carb off the noticed there is rust in the intake port and on what i assume is the intake valve stem, under valve cover is nice and clean. i need your opinion on what to do to that intake and valve . if its not to pitted can i clean it up, lap it, and use it? or should i just order a new valve? also beside a rebuild kit . can u think of anything else i will need ? also can i put a rewind kit on an electric start and keep the electric start? thanx so much . love your vids
Yes sir I've got a newer version of that carb on a log splitter 8hp m.wards version and it runs for 5-10mins. Then dies like I hit the kill switch got any pointers
Is the engine suppose to run with the idle screw completely removed, on full choke? From the diagrams I look at, gas should be spewing out of that hole in such a situation, or it shouldn't be running at all. My engine will only run when fully choked.
Zippo, I rebuilt the carb on my briggs engine, and have finally got it to stop leaking fuel out the bottom thanks to you! Now it starts in one pull, fantastic except that the engine has no power. as soon as it gets put under load, it stalls out. Additionally the engine makes a popping noise once every 3-5 seconds or so. with each pop it emits a small amount of blue smoke. Im wondering if maybe the engine is missing or maybe bad compression. Any ideas?
hey Zippo, maybe u can help, Im losing my mind here, I have 7hp briggs 170402. I bought the motor used for a tote gote mini bike. I cannot get a smooth idle, I bought a rebuild kit installed that, floats level,seals when floats closed, new gaskets etc, and cannot get a smooth idle, had the same problem before I put the kit in, governors adjusted, you'll think you have a decent idle, you'll rev it, it'll break up when revving, even trying to adjust thr screws, then after you rev, wont come back down, idles higher?, Im lost
+THEBGRED1Pull the head and inspect the head, gasket and block for evidence of a blown head gasket. you will also be able to see of there is oil on top of the piston which would indicate bad rings. Next, if the head gasket is fine, check that the valves are fully seating. If you have a leak down kit, use that. If not, rotate the engine over until there is no obvious resistance indicating the cam is in contact with the lifters. Then see if the valves appear to be seating well. If not, you will need to remove the crank case breather and gauge the gap between the valve stem and tappet. They should have .007-.009 clearance. If they need corrected, you will need to remove the valve spring keepers to free the valve from the block so you can reduce the length enough to gain your recommended clearance. If it's an aluminum block, the keepers are usually just a large washer with a "keyhole" in the center. Compress the spring and dislodge the keeper to remove it and take the spring tension off the valve. If it has the two wedge type keepers, when you compress the spring, these keepers can be removed with a small telescoping retrieval magnet. The wedge type keepers are very difficult to reinstall if you don't have the correct valve spring compression tool, so be aware of that. These suggestions are what I would do if I wasn't able to dial in an engine with the carburetor adjusting screws. But...before you tear into anything, get some carb cleaner/brake cleaner and with the engine running, spray it around the carburetor where it connects to the engine, intake elbow etc to see if you get any reaction from the engine. If so, you've got an air leak in one of the gaskets causing an issue. Cheers!! Zip~
+ZippoVarga hey thanks for input had all apart today, do believe the head gasket was leaking, changed that everything else seems good, put it back together runs alot better, I noticed in your video you said if gas is leaking out of the bottom of the air filter to tighten the jet, mines tight, when its cold?, choke ir note?, hard to get started, once started runs pretty good, but gas will leak out of the air filter until started, any other input you can give me? thanks Bill
+ZippoVarga another thing if it adds anything, with the 1&1/2 turns out on the idle and main jet and the one turn after it touches on the idle? it wont start unless i open the jets up
+ZippoVarga thanks for the input Im at wits end with it went out today took forever to get it started, then is started breaking up again when reving, Im going to try a new carb and intake gasket
Hello Zippo, I got an old cast iron engine Briggs Stratton Model#23AFB type 700530 serial795530 Gerty is not seized, has an auto type or similar gen hook-up thru a starter solenoid but not hooked for bat chrg, she has the flow-jet carb and since I have all her #s hope I can get the air filter. Do you have an idea of her HP? Thanks very much Zippo.
Rebuild kits are available pretty much everywhere on line. Your kit number is 299720. Be aware, the carb rebuild kits contain parts for a variety of these carburetors, so you will have extra parts or parts that don't appear to go to your carburetor. All the main components like jet (emulsion tube), metering screw, needle and gaskets are contained in the kit. Zip~
hey zippo been watching a lot of your videos,, i got a old briggs on a simplicity that will only run wide open has no throttle response dont know if its the govenor hooked up wrong or what??
Hi Ryan. I've got an extensive library of videos on setting everything up in regards to the carburetor (rebuild videos as well) and the Governor. There's a series on how the governors work, how to hook them up in relation to the carburetors etc. Zip~
Hey Zippo, love all your videos. I have a 16hp cast iron Briggs I that leaks gas out around the bowl. I checked my main jet as per your video but still having trouble. Is there a rule of thumb when setting your bowl height. I currently have it cutting off fuel when the top of the bowl is parallel to the upper part of the carb. Again, thanks for the videos.
My carb was leaking like a seive after rebuild even before trying to start it. I am afraid the needle screw and perhaps even the long tube inside might be messed up When I took it apart I didn't know it was there and who knows what type of damage I may have done in side the chamber itself. So I don't know if I should try to salvage it or not or take it too someone. I may just find a replacement Horizontal shaft engine for the old snow blower. Usually I just clean out float bowl...
My 8 hp briggs carb looks just like yours. It will run good for 1-2 min. then dies. Any tips? I've already cleaned the carb. I'm suspiscious that I just haven't found the right adjustment on the two screws yet. If it starts dying I can quick turn the main screw and keep it going.
Zippo your videos are so straight forward and informative without bloat. Thanks pal! Cheers from Canada.
I had to search back through RUclips to find these videos, great information,. on my way to rebuild a 1960's Garden Mark Squire 9 by Simplicity Carb and these videos are priceless. Thanks Zippo for the time and information, I really appreciate it.
Happy they can be of some good Robert!
We got the carb kit and performed a successful rebuild thanks to your video. Really thank you. It was a great help. Since I have seen most of your videos, I wanted to share one of mine with you. Here is my son Scott on his grandfathers Allis Chalmers B-110 (that my late father bought new). Enjoy... Scott pulling day 2. 950lb class. He took it to the Banks (Oregon) Tractor Pull last year. I don't see many of these tractors. You don't even have one like this that I have seen. Now we have this AC B-110 and the Landlord 2012 (cousin's,,, sisters?) and a greater appreciation for them, thanks to you. They will both be going to the pull this summer.
My apologies for not seeing or replying to this sooner! I was a diehard Wheel Horse guy until a Simplicity landed in my fleet. It didn't take long before the Wheel Horses were history and I was building my Simplicity and Allis fleet. The single tractor I restored to showroom new was a 3212V, which is the Simplicity equal to your B-110. I prefer the earlier models which resemble your 2012, so no flat hoods are in my collection. I'm off to view your Son Scott pulling! Cheers!! And Thanks for the compliments!! Zip~
man i like you ,your are a rare dyeing breed , ive got one of these on mixer and just cleaned and adj, wish i had found you sooner , im building homemade small mill and i love these old engines , thanks again
Thanks for sharing your experience. 25 years ago I was in the small engine/mower repair biz and knew all this stuff. I picked up an 1970-71 141-960 MTD GT a few days ago. Today I'm going to start working on it.
I bought a new fuel tank shut off valve and a J19LM. I'll find out in a few hours what kind of shape I'm in with the carb, spark & compression.
So fare I just needed the adjustment settings for the carb but it was great getting a review for a rebuild. Thanks again for your efforts.
I always look to you for guidance and you always come thru never failed me
You put out great info. This is the second time I have looked up guidance from you. My son and I are restoring a Simplicity Landlord 2012. I have a carb kit on the way for it and I'm doing my research now. Thank you for what you do for us shade-tree types.
Sean I really like your videos. I know nothing about engines but you are teaching me. I really enjoy your videos. You are truly a great person my Friend. I hope you are doing well.
Thanks for the help! The tank and lines had already been replaced. I've always been good at keeping engines and such running great but never did any big work on them. I got an old Wheel Horse garden tractor and the engine on it is a B&S 7hp from 1973. Amazes me how well these engines run after so long.
Thanks Zippo this video cured my leaky carb, main jet was very loose. Keep up the good work, we appreciate your help.
Very glad you were able to stop the dreaded leaking Flo-Jet Up Draft!! They're notorious for leaking and most don't know the fuel actually sneaks by the main jet and assume it's the float that is the problem. When I learned of this anomaly, all my dripping carb woes were gone. The least I could do was to share my lesson here. Cheers!!! Zip~
Dude! Awesome, im looking for my specialty screwdriver but I just ID'd one I can grind away.. I love all your videos. like you im disabled, blown up too many times cant see shite anymore outa my one good eye, right side all busted up, right hand nearly useless due to arthritis and previous injuries but I have never been one to sit around, and I do it all over again but I appreciate guys like you that take time too mentor, would love to be your neighbor haha...
If I couldn't do something, my mind would get soft. Like you, I've had my fair share of damage done to my body, but we just have to keep plugging along! Cheers Dude! Zip~
I'm glad my video helped out!! That's my reward for doing what I do buddy. Keeping the old Iron alive and well. Cheers!!
fair play zippo ,you got me out of mischeif...nothing beats experience!! hearty thanks ace!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thankyou Zippo..great video
Cheers Eric 💈
Great video. I just picked up a used Giant Vac leaf blower with an 8hp B&S with what looks like that same exact carb. I wasn't sure what the starting point was for setting those screws. It didn't run at all when I got it but after tinkering with it for a while I got it going. But still not where it should be. I did notice some fuel leaking around the bottom where you said to check. I guess I need to tighten that main jet and then reseat the adjustment screw and back off 1.5 turns. I haven't been able to run the blower off of choke yet. I'll mess with it again tomorrow.
Thanks Zippo! i was able to get my 74 mtd 990 running again. finally i can mow without breaking a sweat....
Hi Ken. Unfortunately, it's very difficult to chase the threads and repair them. The pot metal the carb bodies are made of is very unforgiving and damages easily. I suggest checking small engine collectors web sights and eBay for a good replacement lower carb body. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. The special screw driver is a must to make when dealing with these fragile pot metal carburetors. Cheers!
They're much more reliable than the newer Walbro carbs. I bet I rebuild 5 Walbros to one of these old Briggs carbs. Thanks for the Kudos Matt!!
Hey, Love your vids! I have a 3310 landlord that's losing engine speed while mowing. Is seems like the rpms are too low. Car was rebuilt and setup, governor was set up, all with help from your videos!
THANK YOU! I got my 1968 Rugg, 6.5HP Brigs & Stratton running, and fuck do I love it. Carbs always confuse the shit out of me, and thanks for your vid it runs like fucking new now!
Hey thanks for the video ive been working on an 8 horse briggs 91 model with that carb and baught a rebuild kit and replaced everything on it and before and after i did the rebuild it would always flood the carb with gas i didnt know why i checked the needle and float and then i seen your video and the main jet if i would always leak gas into the lower part of the carb then its that main jet i didnt know that untill i seen this video i checked it and it fixed my problem Thank you!
Fuel is new and flowing well too.
hey bud I think you're doing a great job anyway we can get you to finish putting on springs and throttle levers. I didn't mark the spots where I needed to place them on a vintage Briggs & Stratton
ruclips.net/video/DjYVKRv612g/видео.html
You're on the right track with adjusting the screws to keep it running. As you adjust them you'll find the sweet spot where it idles nice and ramps up smoothly. Best advice is to "tinker" with the settings. The baseline is 2 turns out on each, then you can fine tune from there. Some engines like the factory setting and others need a little tweak. Best of luck!! Cheers!
Very cool brother I learn so much from your show 😀
Two possibilities come to mind. The engines exhaust valve is burned up and needing replaced/re ground or you have the fuel mixture too rich. Turn the main jet screw clockwise until the engine starts to falter, then open it back up 1/4 turn. At night and in low light, these engines produce enough heat that you can actually see the mufflers glowing red hot. If it's not backfiring, I would rule out valve problems and concentrate on fine tuning the carb. Hope this is helpful! Cheers!!
Thanks Bill! Part three is still downloading...I have my good and bad days, but I live for those asking for help on here. It helps motivate me to get out and move a little..lol. I'm surprised I don't weigh 1000 pounds! Thanks for the motivation my Friend!!
My B&S 5hp won't idle unless the choke is on 1/3 to 1/2.... at such a point it idles nicely Googling says this is because of a lean mixture. Adjusting the idle mixture screw seems to do nothing. I've blown it out with JB blaster and it seems to go through. New diaphram, cleaned out float bowl, gas tank, and main jet with a small electrical wire thread. Of course, I can't run it with 1/3 choke on, because if I accelerate it stumbles because the choke is on making the mixture too rich.
@tractorkid99 You bet......the (2) may be needed,as Briggs and Stratton has been updating their inventories to include the 2 as a prefix.
Watched several of your videos many times and have a BS 16hp able to start and run but can never take off the choke completely. moves through the speed range decently. went through carb as you have shown
If the male threads of the main body of the main jet are not stripped going into the lower part of the carb, I suggest getting a replacement and not tapping anything. The carb kits are cheap and you'll have peace of mind that it's done right.
ebay is always a great resource for finding these carbs. You can use the three or four bolt carb and just dial back the main jet if you get the 4 bolt. If it needs rebuilt, you can also find the kits on ebay. Hope this helps!
Heya Bruce.....if you take the upper part of the carb and set it on the face that connects to the intake elbow (up side down) then the float should be perfectly level. Gently bend the tab that makes contact with the needle until you achieve this level plane. I sometimes even let the opposite side from the needle set a 1/16 inch or so higher than where the float connects to the carb body. If you continue to have trouble, you may look into how well the needle is seating. Let me know how it goes!
Hey Charles...I've got a little trick I use to get flywheels off. I've had a couple people say. DON'T DO THAT!!! You'll screw up the bearings!!! No worries though...What they don't understand is how I'm doing it only frees the flywheel and puts no stress on the connecting rod, bearings or bearing plates. I'll get a vid up the next time I have to take one apart. Later my long distance Friend!
Take the main jet screw assembly out and see if fuel pours out, if not, you're not getting gas to the engine. So check your fuel lines. If they're old, replace them and make sure the fuel tank is clean of debris. Also, the gas tank has to be higher than the level of the fuel bowl on the carb. After all that, give her a go. You may have to turn the main jet in or out until you get the engine to pop like it wants to start, then keep adjusting until it will start. Also slowly open the choke.
I've got basically the same carb you have here (main components anyway, slightly different air intake). Set the fuel and Idle valve to 1 1/2 and back and forth but it's still not kicking over. Idle is open and set as well. Cleaned it, rebuilt. New jet, needle, gaskets.. Whole nine yards. It wants to go but just won't get there.
Its gold and thank you have a great chrismas
Zippo thanks for your help you're right The fuel line was too long and it created an air gap works well now but now I have a leak coming from the glass petcock bowl at the bottom of the gas tank now to look for a O-ring for that
hey Dave! Keep a check on ebay. The three bolt carbs are smaller than the 4 bowl bolt pattern carbs. They do pop up regularly on there. You can also put in classifieds on the tractor forums. Good luck!!
If you haven't, run new fuel lines with at least a 150 micron filter in line. Check the gas tank for any sediment. If there is any, drain the tank using the old gas line and clean the tank out. Make sure the fuel level in the tank is higher than the carburetor then start the engine. As you open the choke, slowly turn the main jet (Bottom) counter clockwise until the engine runs with the choke off. Then see if it will throttle up and down smoothly.
That would be awesome! I really don't wanna break the thing. The 6 horse is kinda rare too. Until next time!
It sounds like either the fuel line or pick up tube is partially clogged. With your 5hp, the tank is attached to the carb if I'm not mistaken. Remove the tank and make sure it's good and clean and at that time, you can clean the filter screen at the base of the pick up tube and make sure it's not causing part of your problem. Best of luck with your engine!
And yes......there should be a throttle cable. Check my other videos to see the two options for installing the cable. Best wishes! Cheers!
If your carburetor has 4 screws attaching the upper to lower bodies (or three if it's an early 65, which by the serial number, it looks to be), then just search ebay for Up Draft carm rebuild and you will get a ton of reasonably priced rebuild kits. They are universal kits, so just look for the bowl to upper 4 (or 3) screw gasket and you can't go wrong. Typically, the kits come with both the two and three bolt gaskets, so you should be fine. The Spring is necessary for the governor. Continued...
Thanks, ive never worked on one of these until today. Was wondering how i could still have a leak.
Thanks for the vids! Always enjoy them!
Mine is rebuilt, all of your boxes are checked...when I pull the cord, it will cough once, then next pull coughs or pops 4 times, then it acts like it's flooded and doesn't even pop.. I pull the plug and it's dry, it's gapped at 29 to 30 and I can't figure out what's going on. I've tried to spray some starting fluid in it. Your instructionals are very clear, hoping I'm as clear in seeking your help to get this monster started. 1960 Briggs & Stratton 6 and 1/2 horsepower updraft carb just like yours
Super fantastic video...it worked for me... Thanks for posting...
zippo after all the fuss i went thru with my 8 horsepower briggs i discovered i had to raise the fuel tank a few inches,i believe the tank was put on and engine would never run for well................anyway, the carb is gravity fed and fuel dont run up-hill. after raising the fuel tank it runs beutifully. this is a rare thing but worth noting, joe
To get the right carb kit, take all three sets of numbers off your engine and go to your nearest service center for the rebuild kit. Good luck!!
Thanks for your instructions I definatly get my fuel leakage of my motor. I had to remove the high fuel tube off 4 times and blow a little bit of compress air and retighten quite a bit and now everything is working good. And a the last question I ask about charging system I discover that the diode was broke and loosing the power when the motor was running. Now here a question. when the motor is running I have a lot of vibration and I tought that may be if I put some rubber shims under the motor will help a bit. Thank you from Denis.
+Denis Poulin Don't do that Denis. The engine is in perfect alignment with the drive shaft and rear gear box. Raising the engine will cause all kinds of bad things to happen. These engines vibrate. They always have. I'm glad you got the carburetor fixed. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks Ram! The last one just finished uploading and I'm fixing to make fun of my self a little where I totally blanked out for a few seconds...lol. Thanks again Buddy!!
I have the 8 horse Briggs and Stratton with the upjet carb and am a little bit in a bind when it comes to the governor and adjusting it, their is a nut on a bolt that's got a spring that's connected and not sure on it's proper setting also the idle adjust screw setting
Hi Troy. I have a video on the vertical engines as well as many more on the horizontal crank shaft engines. Try a search and if you come up empty handed, let me know and I'll see if I can help further. Is your engine a vertical crank shaft engine or horizontal? Zip~
www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/antique-engine-specifications.html
This is how I got my engine running.
The manuals have parts numbers specs and more.
You might get lucky and be able to rebuild your carb as long as you didn't damage the port that the main jet goes into (long tube). Typically, there are only two culprits to a leaking carb. The main jet isn't seated well or the float needle isn't closing off the fuel supply as it should. Best of luck and I hope this helps you out! Cheers!!
Hey Sean another great video!
@YellowFordTruck The carb shouldn't leak very much at the bowl gasket. It sounds like the needle and seat and float are to blame for your problems. Disassemble the carb as per my videos and purchase a carb rebuild kit. Don't use gasket maker, it will compound your problems. Check that everything moves freely and that your float doesn't have a hole in it. Often, you can get away with reusing the old bowl to body gasket, but don't use any gasket sealer or maker on the carb at all.
If you stripped the threads on the carb body it self, you need to replace the carb. The main jet inside the carb uses those same threads and it's a recipe for disaster if you ever have to rebuild or replace the main jet. It's unfortunate, but the carb bodies can be found cheaper than a whole carb, which may be another option. I suggest ebay or jackssmallengine dott comm for a lower carb body.
You're very welcome!!
My snow blower Gilson with 8 hp working only on chock ?.When I pull chock out ,then he starting to chocking engine and working very bad,but on little open chock working good when engine is hot already ?🤔.What is wrong with that ?
Hey Zippo
Iam not getting any action on my throttle at carb when I move lever on dash. The governor rod moves but not the arm that move throttle on carb.
Cheers Eric💈
Hi Sir. I have this carb and its flooding with gas, as you say at 3.45. Gas comes out the bottom of the air filter etc. When I screwed the needle valve in after cleaning it, I simply screwed it till it was seated all the way in. When you say "back it out" should I just try backing it out half a turn and then retry and repeat the process if necessary, until it no longer floods? Is this what you mean? Would really appreciate your advice, if you could kindly spare the time to give it. Love your channel. I have a 1972 Honda CL125 by the way. Fixing it up now - another longer term project.
Without seeing the assembly, I can only speculate here. Check that the old needle and new needle are identical in length and that the float tabs that the stainless pin goes through are not bent. If you have the needle to float spring installed, try assembling with out this part. Did you install the new brass seat that came in the kit? These are for the newer 4 bolt carbs, so you shouldn't have had the need to install it. Let me know. Cheers!
you may have just solved my problem thanks
Hi, thanks for the video. I have one of these off a 16hp from a Gravely 800 series. Where do you order your kits from?
Excellent videos. Just rebuilt my carb and now that the motor runs, there is a small flame coming out of the muffler. 8hp Briggs. What is going on there?
Good video and great info!
Hello thank you so much for this video it helped me to understand my engine. I rebuild my carb and the whole engine and it still seems that i may not have gas getting into the engine. It will fire when i put starting fluid in it so i do have spark. I also set my idle speed so i dont know who to look for next. If you could give me an idea of where to start i would appreciate it. Thanks
What is this engine on? I have a 1970 something Speedex garden tractor and I'm trying to find out the serial/model of the engine. My carb looks just like yours except it has a high idle screw instead of a thumb screw. The vid helped and I'm gonna rebuild the carb and go from there but it would be nice to know the numbers to order parts.
Thanks! Now I stripped out the female threads on the drain screw on bottom of carb. If I retap to next larger size, will that metal crack. Suggestions for fixing?
i have several briggs cast carbs like in the video. i have a problem with them always dripping gas. i have had the main jet out several times. it look to be only seating on the upper seat. any idea how to fix. thanks mat ps your videos are very helpful
Will carb leakage cause engine not to fire. I have good spark, it was running then stopped out of the blue, rope broke, now with new fuel and good spark it still will not fire. 8 hp briggs and stratton snowblower. Thanks, Gary
Zippo- I have an old gilson with a briggs 326437 (16hp single cast iron, etc.) It ran fine for years, then for a few months it wouldn't start, but if I blew a shot of starting fluid in the air cleaner it would start and then run fine. Now, It will only run on starting fluid. I can drive it around the yard if I keep squirting starting fluid in the air cleaner, but it won't run by itself. I've taken the carb apart twice, soaked it, cleaned it, blew it out, and everything looks good in there as far as I can tell. Any ideas? I'm stumped.
Chances are, that the fuel line needs replaced and/or the gas tank needs cleaned out. Since it ran fine and these carbs rely partly on vacuum suction, an occlusion in the fuel delivery can cause this problem. Keep us posted! Cheers!! Zip~
I have a 16hp briggs cast iron that I want to use for a go kart build.
If I remove governor, add billet flywheel will I be safe from any dangerous blow offs?
Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated!
Cast Iron Briggs and Stratton Carb Rebuild. Thanks for the great video. I have the same engine and was rebuilding the carbonator because the gas was leaking out. I got the rebuild kit and started to assemble it but noticed that the float did not go back to the original position and was rubbing on the float bowl. It was sitting to high on the needle valve. I did not want to bent the tab that hits the needle valve to much more that it was already. Any hints why it is sitting higher than it should
I have 2 david bradley walk behinds, one with a 2 horse model n and one with a 5 horse model 14. Both carbs need rebuilt. Where can I find kits for these? both are from the early to mid '50's. TY
thanks for this video set very informative. i have a model br6 that had been sitting 20 plus years outside i took the carb apart and cleaned it, sunk the float in a bucket of water for a while and it didnt take on any water, all the gaskets seamed good enough to reuse and didnt brake when comming apart, none of the needles were worn from being over tightened, i set the float parallel... i've got it all back together but its pouring fuel out of the air intake/cleaner side. when i say pouring i mean its like i just ran an open fuel line out of it. i pulled the needle out and reseated it like you stated and still pouring fuel out, i then pulled the carb back apart and re set the float a little lower in the bowl thinking maybe it was just badly flooding itself (although the engine runs very good even with fuel pouring out) got it back together and still pouring fuel out. you have any suggestions? any help would be awsome
Long explanation short. Over time, the material the carbs are made of begin to pit. Put an in line fuel shut off between the tank and engine and always remember to shut it off before shutting the engine off. Or, find/buy a new carb and install it. Most likely, the float is fine and fuel is seeping past the main jet.
Hello Zippo. I have a quick question on a Flo Jet. Someone brought me a old Powermate generator with a 11 HP I/C briggs with the 4 bolt flo Jet for service. It runs fine with full choke and dies with it off. Being there are not a whole lot of passages on these carbs, what would be the cause? Emulsion tube clogged at the little side ports? I have worked on hundreds of carbs, but, never a Flo Jet. Thanks
good videos it help me thanks!
Alan Edgmon I'm glad they're helpful Alan! It's why I do what I do! Cheers!! Zip~
we have a couple of those carbs on a couple simplicity's we have, we cant get either of them to idle up we have tried everything clean and adjusting would you know whats wrong?
Please help , my carb is similar, someone took it off for me, but they're not around so I'm trying to figure out the placement of the long wire piece and choke cable placement
Zippo, I bought a new carb. Briggs model 390323. my question to you is how are the initial jet, idle and fuel screws set? Do I install and start then begin to make adjustments?
thanks!!
I bought a tractor figured the carb was dirty. Bought new carb. Installed. It does same thing. Runs for a second and dies. Changed fuel line and checked flow
Seems to be flowing just fine. But only runs when dump gas in carb
Hello Zippo,
I have a old B&S 8 hp motor. The coil is bad (meter shows coil is open). I have been to every small engine parts stores in Augusta Ga with no luck. One even looked in old paper parts books (they were stored in a dusty trailer). Bottom line is I have had no luck even identifying this coil. There are no numbers anywhere on the motor. Can I send you a picture of this coil? If so how? Hate to retire this motor because it runs (ran) great and is (was) very easy to start.
i NEED your HeLp bady! my gas tank is emptying into the oil crankcase after sitting for awhile....i had to change out the oil/gas with fresh oil-seems my float isnt set right and cant find anything to adjust this! ive had the carb apart several times already-and everything appears to be good in there-i just cant seem to figure out how to adjust the float to stop it from overflowing and emptying the gas tank! then once i figure that out-i can adjust those other three screws to tune the generator-
How do you tighten the large Welch plug on the one piece flo-jet? Also do you know how to remove the choke shaft?
Excellent video! My problem is the needle keeps dripping fuel...on a 16 hp Briggs and Stratton 1989...any advice?
hi zippo> great vids. Im working working on my grandfathers old simplicity. it has a cast iron 12hp briggs from 88. electric start. one day it died and sat until i got some confedance to try and fix it. im took the carb off the noticed there is rust in the intake port and on what i assume is the intake valve stem, under valve cover is nice and clean. i need your opinion on what to do to that intake and valve . if its not to pitted can i clean it up, lap it, and use it? or should i just order a new valve? also beside a rebuild kit . can u think of anything else i will need ? also can i put a rewind kit on an electric start and keep the electric start? thanx so much . love your vids
Thank you!
Yes sir I've got a newer version of that carb on a log splitter 8hp m.wards version and it runs for 5-10mins. Then dies like I hit the kill switch got any pointers
Is the engine suppose to run with the idle screw completely removed, on full choke? From the diagrams I look at, gas should be spewing out of that hole in such a situation, or it shouldn't be running at all. My engine will only run when fully choked.
Zippo, I rebuilt the carb on my briggs engine, and have finally got it to stop leaking fuel out the bottom thanks to you! Now it starts in one pull, fantastic except that the engine has no power. as soon as it gets put under load, it stalls out. Additionally the engine makes a popping noise once every 3-5 seconds or so. with each pop it emits a small amount of blue smoke. Im wondering if maybe the engine is missing or maybe bad compression. Any ideas?
hey Zippo, maybe u can help, Im losing my mind here, I have 7hp briggs 170402. I bought the motor used for a tote gote mini bike. I cannot get a smooth idle, I bought a rebuild kit installed that, floats level,seals when floats closed, new gaskets etc, and cannot get a smooth idle, had the same problem before I put the kit in, governors adjusted, you'll think you have a decent idle, you'll rev it, it'll break up when revving, even trying to adjust thr screws, then after you rev, wont come back down, idles higher?, Im lost
+THEBGRED1Pull the head and inspect the head, gasket and block for evidence of a blown head gasket. you will also be able to see of there is oil on top of the piston which would indicate bad rings. Next, if the head gasket is fine, check that the valves are fully seating. If you have a leak down kit, use that. If not, rotate the engine over until there is no obvious resistance indicating the cam is in contact with the lifters. Then see if the valves appear to be seating well. If not, you will need to remove the crank case breather and gauge the gap between the valve stem and tappet. They should have .007-.009 clearance. If they need corrected, you will need to remove the valve spring keepers to free the valve from the block so you can reduce the length enough to gain your recommended clearance. If it's an aluminum block, the keepers are usually just a large washer with a "keyhole" in the center. Compress the spring and dislodge the keeper to remove it and take the spring tension off the valve. If it has the two wedge type keepers, when you compress the spring, these keepers can be removed with a small telescoping retrieval magnet. The wedge type keepers are very difficult to reinstall if you don't have the correct valve spring compression tool, so be aware of that. These suggestions are what I would do if I wasn't able to dial in an engine with the carburetor adjusting screws. But...before you tear into anything, get some carb cleaner/brake cleaner and with the engine running, spray it around the carburetor where it connects to the engine, intake elbow etc to see if you get any reaction from the engine. If so, you've got an air leak in one of the gaskets causing an issue. Cheers!! Zip~
+ZippoVarga hey thanks for input had all apart today, do believe the head gasket was leaking, changed that everything else seems good, put it back together runs alot better, I noticed in your video you said if gas is leaking out of the bottom of the air filter to tighten the jet, mines tight, when its cold?, choke ir note?, hard to get started, once started runs pretty good, but gas will leak out of the air filter until started, any other input you can give me? thanks Bill
+ZippoVarga another thing if it adds anything, with the 1&1/2 turns out on the idle and main jet and the one turn after it touches on the idle? it wont start unless i open the jets up
+THEBGRED1 That's certainly an indication that the engine is sucking in more air than it should.
+ZippoVarga thanks for the input Im at wits end with it went out today took forever to get it started, then is started breaking up again when reving, Im going to try a new carb and intake gasket
Hello Zippo,
I got an old cast iron engine Briggs Stratton Model#23AFB type 700530 serial795530
Gerty is not seized, has an auto type or similar gen hook-up thru a starter solenoid but
not hooked for bat chrg, she has the flow-jet carb and since I have all her #s hope I can
get the air filter. Do you have an idea of her HP? Thanks very much Zippo.
Using the numbers on your engine, go to PartsTree dott comm and you should be able to find a carburetor rebuild kit there.
Hey zippo varga were can i find a main jet screw for a cast iron 10 hp briggs and stratton engine
Rebuild kits are available pretty much everywhere on line. Your kit number is 299720. Be aware, the carb rebuild kits contain parts for a variety of these carburetors, so you will have extra parts or parts that don't appear to go to your carburetor. All the main components like jet (emulsion tube), metering screw, needle and gaskets are contained in the kit. Zip~
hey zippo been watching a lot of your videos,, i got a old briggs on a simplicity that will only run wide open has no throttle response dont know if its the govenor hooked up wrong or what??
Hi Ryan. I've got an extensive library of videos on setting everything up in regards to the carburetor (rebuild videos as well) and the Governor. There's a series on how the governors work, how to hook them up in relation to the carburetors etc. Zip~
Hey Zippo, love all your videos. I have a 16hp cast iron Briggs I that leaks gas out around the bowl. I checked my main jet as per your video but still having trouble. Is there a rule of thumb when setting your bowl height. I currently have it cutting off fuel when the top of the bowl is parallel to the upper part of the carb. Again, thanks for the videos.
My carb was leaking like a seive after rebuild even before trying to start it. I am afraid the needle screw and perhaps even the long tube inside might be messed up When I took it apart I didn't know it was there and who knows what type of damage I may have done in side the chamber itself. So I don't know if I should try to salvage it or not or take it too someone. I may just find a replacement Horizontal shaft engine for the old snow blower. Usually I just clean out float bowl...
My 8 hp briggs carb looks just like yours. It will run good for 1-2 min. then dies. Any tips? I've already cleaned the carb. I'm suspiscious that I just haven't found the right adjustment on the two screws yet. If it starts dying I can quick turn the main screw and keep it going.