There should be more good people around like you and me. I ordered the rebuild kit and a bunch of assorted just in case parts before i took my 2 piece flo jet apart. I got everything I didn't need. The brass seat was a mess and none of the needles from BS would work. I figured i do a little investigating and I found your amazing video. Thank you for sharing your expert knowledge. I was prepared to buy an upper body for $75.00. I found the brass needle seat and ordered it. I used your method and popped the old one out. I was amazed the part was available and even more amazed how your extraction method worked. I definitely would have butcher that upper casting. 1985 Briggs I/C 8 HP. THANKS AGAIN
WELL, all I can say is Thank You too much Taryl, you saved the day....and ME, from a frustration OVERLOAD (it woudnt' be pretty). OK, now back to normalcy (cant believe I just said that). CA retired boy with nothin better to do, so decided to rebuild/pretty up/make it work vintage sears roto-tiller, circa 1979/80 I bought in(used) 1990 there abouts.I was puttin' in new lawn/sprinklers etc. Anyway, a real education/learning process re: B & S 4cycle's.Fact is, I didnt' know what the heck a 4 cycle was! ENTER THE INTERNET!...boy howdy, and shut my mouth wide open, I found your "Tarl Fixes All" vids, and I am now a bona-fide Briggs know it all. All right, enough of that bally hoo. Appreciate your vids, and...THANKS again,...for helping us all get an understanding of... 'what the heck we're doing!!
Excellent instructional, and hilarious too. I was 99% gonna just buy a replacement carb, but now, I'm gonna buy a rebuild kit AND a carb, so I'll have a spare.
My old man doesn't have time to take a look at his Bolens 10 hp tractor.. The beauty runs until it warms up and then it shuts off. It doesn't want to start anymore and it hesitates to crank like it's flooded but when it cranks it doesn't start. Any ideas to what could cause this issue? Do you think fuel isn't getting into the bowl or too much?
My 8 hp Updraft starts right up, runs at any RPM you give it, and in 5 minutes shuts off like you hit a kill button. starts right back up...starts to die, choke it, it will recover...than it shuts off...Anyone out there no whats up with this thing I've rebuilt the carb twice. thats easy. Thank you
9:27 that's no bugger, it's a telfon washer that may be there (Briggs design patch) and its supposed to help prevent leaks between the emulsion tube carb body.
Ya really gotta wonder what they were thinking when they designed this one. I have one on a leaf blower I bought last fall and it has some carb issues. Glad I got through the season with it. Now I know the correct way to pull it apart without muckin up the works. I would've yanked that bowl off there from the start. Thanks bud. I love the sound effects and the best thing anybody could do with a couple of turds is flush em away! lol!
got a homelite 5500 watt generator with a similar carb just a bit longer maybe. when i pull the starter a few times it starts leaking out the bottom of the carb but the spark plug looks dry. wont start. some carb spray and more pulling and it will fire and run. tried adjusting carb a bit but the governor wants to bring it to max rpms when manually giving it throttle it sticks to max rpms. why is it leaking when trying to crank? and why is it wanting to run at max throttle? thanks its an old generator and makes good power but cant keep it running. any thoughts? thanks? new carb aswell but same problem
This brought back a recurring nightmare I had when I was in 1st grade about being flushed down the toilet. I guess i won't be sleepy well for a few nights.
I have two questions for you guys concerning the 19245 tap set: Looks like it's NLA, not even from ebay. While you can find both 1/4-32 5/16-32 taps, the drawing in Taryl's Master Parts Catalog seems to show bottom taps. There in lies potentially the problem, so far, I haven't found bottom taps in these sizes. Do these have to be bottom taps, or can you use tapper/plug style taps? Next question, if it has to be a bottom tap, who sells ones in 32 thread count? Thanks.
Thanks for another great video, Taryl! I'm missing the throttle lever on a troy built chipper with this type of carb and the linkage looks the same. in the video, I see the one screw that hold the lever on but don't see the other end of it and how it's attached. Can you buy the throttle lever. I think I may have to just manufacture one to replace it.
It's either the tapered seat where the high speed emulsion tube screws in, there was a teflon sealing washer on this guy's which he flicked off, OR it's the o-ring which seals around the needle that screws into the emulsion tube. Either way, your comment is 4 years old and i'm sure you've found a fix now :p
Omg Taryl You saved my carbs life tonight. I damn well know how to take a carb apart... Gulp And when the fuel bowl wouldn't come off.. Whimpers. I finally begged my grandma for her smart phone and dialed you up interspace Well thanks a bunch Our 8 hp BNS generator With the 2 piece flow jet carb. Is almost back together. Grandma Where's my dinner!
Hi Taryl great sense of humour I enjoy your skits.Would like to ask you if the Booger on the hi speed tube was some sort of 'o' ring ? I have a large two piece Flojet carb and it is forever leaking after engine shut down . Read somewhere that there was a small type of 0 ring installed there to help the taper to seal in the carb body. Do you know of this, and would it be the remedy?
+Taryl Fixes All Thanks for your time answering the question .Going to try your tip .Hey do you think that I could borrow Andy or Slippers to install the tape,those small hands would come in handy- LOL .
I am currently rebuilding this carburetor (soaking in vinegar right now). 1) Shouldn't there be a gasket between the carb and air horn support against the bowl? None shown in parts diagram or video 2) Mine is a snow blower with a non-adjustable tube intake unlike the air horn. When mounting on carb, 1/4" space when installed and air horn in video shows a flush fit. Aso, there is no gasket and non shown on parts list unlike the video 16:53. Should I drill a hole and make it flush and also get/make gasket? model 190412, type 1024-01 3) Everyone questions your tee shirt when i wear it. I watched your video 3 times before starting this project.
Are there any option to replace these updraft with regular carb? I have a few of these engines and it's a pain in the tuchus to get them running for the first time
+Arnold Johnson If it's the bolt that secures the control plate then the needle & seat are leaking. If it's leaking from the adjusting screw then yes there is a o-ring. If its leaking a tiny bit then stops its just some fuel being sucked up & settles in the lower carb. body from when the engine wound down to stop It continues to create vacuum and continues to suck up fuel.
You always put out great information Taryl, but I need to correct you on one little thing. WD40 is NOT a lubricant. WD=Water Displacement and the 40 is the number of formulas it took to get to the finished product. LMT By PB Blaster (LMT=Lawn Mower Tuneup)...Now THERS YUR DINNER!! Just a little friendly helpful tidbit. I spent years thinking WD40 was the answer to all my lubricating needs until I was shown how it actually dries out any surface. It was originally developed for NASA as a means to remove moisture from electrical components and somewhere along the lines, people started thinking on their own, that it was a miracle lubricant. Hope this little bit of information is helpful! Cheers!! Zip~ p.s. Give LMT by PB Blaster a try!
ZippoVarga WD is garbage,on the whole. Rusted stuck or cleaning something OK whatever. Turns to a gummy varnish with time Deep Creep by Sea foam is a nice fine oil.
my grandpa had those screw drivers ...... he died in 88, thanks for reminding me , his briggs ran for over 40 yrs ... wish they still made the cast iro flatheads
Timely, I bought a chinesium unit that won't take fuel through the needle valve. Among other things, little, or no responce from the needle adjusters. Rather than take it apart, I'm going send it back. So now I dive into the old one. 20,000 ! Hrs. on the clock.
little propane torch can loosen that emulsion tube if stuck and aluminum is good heat sink and won't melt but might warp if using to much heat to quickly so small flame and 5 minutes usually works👍
I have this engine 194412-0122-01 and my local shop replaced the ball and rachet recoil starter with the new type that has pawls. I don't see anyone who has done a video yet on how to replace the pawls when they break. I tried to order the pawls but was told I have to buy the entire recoil starter for my 8 hp b&s engine. I see the pawls for sale at major stores via online, but the ones online are 1 1/2 and my engine takes 1 1/4 inch so they have to be cut down. Taryl seems to know ways to fix problems for less so if a part number is known please do a video or do a video how to fix the new style recoil starter for the 8 hp b&s when the pawls break. Great tip about the jet breaking, I didn't know and may have broken mine, I will have to check it. My engine is on a 4.4 KW coleman engine generator I have not had running right for awhile now. I replaced the carb and could only get the engine to run for about 20 minitues before it would die. I cleaned the flywheel and replaced the ignition coil and replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the plastic gas tank and replaced the petcock even had the local engine shop work on it and no improvement when the housing rusted out and the recoil starter broke. I replaced the housing and now at the point trying repair the new style recoil starter. Great videos thanks for doing them.
It's very hard to find a repair manual for a 1992 B&S 5 HP self propelled walk behind mower. I've cleaned and rebuilt the carb, and this mower has a mechanical governor located under the shroud. I have no problem starting the mower, but the idle mixture screw doesn't seem to work. I can seat that screw all the way, and the motor doesn't choke out. I can go 5 to 6 full turns counter clockwise, and still wont choke out. I adjusted idle screw and speed screw,and speed control cable as well..............beats the hell out of me to why the motor revs up like it's going to fly off. My brain is drain Taryl. Any idea what else could be wrong and why the idle mixture screw doesn't work?
+Real Gagne That screw is for the low speed circuit for the carb. The bowl nut is the main jet. If the motor is screaming thats the governor. If yur unable to set the governor then the chances are the governor is broken inside the engine. The spring on the mower is the governor spring & if its not the correct spring that too will make it scream. Check out my how-to adjust a governor video that may help you to repair the mower. Remember all governor systems work the same they just have different arm & lever set ups. But the spring is what regulates the speed more tension on the spring more engine speed. Less tension less speed but it has to be the spring for that engine.
+Taryl Fixes All ...........I've set that governor 10 times over. It starts great at full throttle, but it over revs. As far as the idle mixture screw goes, I know I have to be at my lowest speed on my control, but when I start slowing it down from full throttle............it chokes out after backing it up just 2 clicks. I'm trying to get it down to about 2000 rpm or so to set that screw.............guess I'm gonna have to pull the motor and see the governor gear..............I've tried everything that I know..........thnx Taryl
+Taryl Fixes All ......I downloaded the parts catalog that B&S said included my model, but some parts don't look anything like the ones on my motor. I wish I could send you pictures via e-mail if I could so you could see the governor spring (not in catalog), and governor arm. I've watched 100's of videos on this, but none come close to the 1992 B&S 5 HP quantum model 126702...type 3120-01.....code 92011456. I wish I could find a repair manual on that particular motor......Let me know if I can send pictures.
+Taryl Fixes All thanks for all your help Mr. T. I appreciate all your videos. Unfortunately I don't have FaceBlock to send pics of my carbutrator or Briggs and Strapon motor :-)
Looks like Slippers RE hydrated LOL Nonc Andy is lost in the pipe somewhere. He'll pop up in the toilet later just like the lil turds do after the flush LOL !!!!
Like e information. Just a little too much "carbatraitor". I work on engines of all types for a living and have done so for 40 years. In the background of my picture here you see my shop at work. Actual shop is 40X50 feet with 24X70 storage area also. Gonna subscribe and see what ya got for info. I still get stumped now and again with some of these small engines. I taught myself on small ones. Certified in all systems of all GM cars and trucks built up to 1994. Automatic and manual transmissions, fuel injection, climate control and specialized electronics for the "computer car". LOL
I could do without the poor accent and silly accent and fake teech, but that's just me. I'm here to learn, and I learned. Thank you very much, keep up the great work!!
My 8 hp Updraft starts right up, runs at any RPM you give it, and in 5 minutes shuts off like you hit a kill button. starts right back up...starts to die, choke it, it will recover...than it shuts off...Anyone out there no whats up with this thing I've rebuilt the carb twice. thats easy. Thank you
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Pick Up YOUR Taryl Apparel Today!
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And There's Your Dinner!!
I didn't need this info 7 years ago but I was all ears today when I needed it , Thanks a million
i enjoy watching Taryl and the gang.
There should be more good people around like you and me. I ordered the rebuild kit and a bunch of assorted just in case parts before i took my 2 piece flo jet apart. I got everything I didn't need. The brass seat was a mess and none of the needles from BS would work. I figured i do a little investigating and I found your amazing video. Thank you for sharing your expert knowledge. I was prepared to buy an upper body for $75.00. I found the brass needle seat and ordered it. I used your method and popped the old one out. I was amazed the part was available and even more amazed how your extraction method worked. I definitely would have butcher that upper casting. 1985 Briggs I/C 8 HP. THANKS AGAIN
WELL, all I can say is Thank You too much Taryl, you saved the day....and ME, from a frustration OVERLOAD (it woudnt' be pretty).
OK, now back to normalcy (cant believe I just said that).
CA retired boy with nothin better to do, so decided to rebuild/pretty up/make it work vintage sears roto-tiller, circa 1979/80 I bought in(used) 1990 there abouts.I was puttin' in new lawn/sprinklers etc.
Anyway, a real education/learning process re: B & S 4cycle's.Fact is, I didnt' know what the heck a 4 cycle was!
ENTER THE INTERNET!...boy howdy, and shut my mouth wide open, I found your "Tarl Fixes All" vids, and I am now a bona-fide
Briggs know it all.
All right, enough of that bally hoo.
Appreciate your vids, and...THANKS again,...for helping us all get an understanding of... 'what the heck we're doing!!
+James Schreiner Thers yur Dinner!
I like your style you know your stuff buddy
Thank you, Tarly. I needed the little detail about the float being parallel, and how the needle hooks onto the float tab.
Love the videos gives me the giggles learning at the same time thank you very much
Excellent instructional, and hilarious too. I was 99% gonna just buy a replacement carb, but now, I'm gonna buy a rebuild kit AND a carb, so I'll have a spare.
My old man doesn't have time to take a look at his Bolens 10 hp tractor..
The beauty runs until it warms up and then it shuts off.
It doesn't want to start anymore and it hesitates to crank like it's flooded but when it cranks it doesn't start. Any ideas to what could cause this issue? Do you think fuel isn't getting into the bowl or too much?
My 8 hp Updraft starts right up, runs at any RPM you give it, and in 5 minutes shuts off like you hit a kill button. starts right back up...starts to die, choke it, it will recover...than it shuts off...Anyone out there no whats up with this thing I've rebuilt the carb twice. thats easy. Thank you
9:27 that's no bugger, it's a telfon washer that may be there (Briggs design patch) and its supposed to help prevent leaks between the emulsion tube carb body.
I appreciate the video! You’ve helped me out a lot! Thanks!!!
great vids taryl funny and informative stay well mate ,,,Pat from canada
Great vid. Taryl. You can never know to much when it comes to carbatrators.
Great tip on pulling the nozzle before pulling off the bowl. Been there done that had to find a new nozzle.
Thanks for some great tips on working on a carburetor Taryl. Great video as usual.
Thanks!
great video you guys should have your own tv show thanks for another great episode
I agree!
Ya really gotta wonder what they were thinking when they designed this one. I have one on a leaf blower I bought last fall and it has some carb issues. Glad I got through the season with it. Now I know the correct way to pull it apart without muckin up the works. I would've yanked that bowl off there from the start. Thanks bud. I love the sound effects and the best thing anybody could do with a couple of turds is flush em away! lol!
got a homelite 5500 watt generator with a similar carb just a bit longer maybe. when i pull the starter a few times it starts leaking out the bottom of the carb but the spark plug looks dry. wont start. some carb spray and more pulling and it will fire and run. tried adjusting carb a bit but the governor wants to bring it to max rpms when manually giving it throttle it sticks to max rpms. why is it leaking when trying to crank? and why is it wanting to run at max throttle? thanks its an old generator and makes good power but cant keep it running. any thoughts? thanks? new carb aswell but same problem
funniest best small engine mechanic on the internet
I can't believe I've never seen this one before! I thought I've seen all Taryls videos. Good timing too as there wasn't a new one this week (5/20/18)
Thanks Taryl!
blessings
good teaching
for someone
my riding lawn mower
when I driving I feel clear smoke on face and make me cry, thanks
dont smoke and drive
This brought back a recurring nightmare I had when I was in 1st grade about being flushed down the toilet. I guess i won't be sleepy well for a few nights.
I have two questions for you guys concerning the 19245 tap set: Looks like it's NLA, not even from ebay. While you can find both 1/4-32 5/16-32 taps, the drawing in Taryl's Master Parts Catalog seems to show bottom taps. There in lies potentially the problem, so far, I haven't found bottom taps in these sizes. Do these have to be bottom taps, or can you use tapper/plug style taps? Next question, if it has to be a bottom tap, who sells ones in 32 thread count? Thanks.
My Dad Love's you guys. ..I'm with you. Guys.,..lol 😁
Thanks for another great video, Taryl!
I'm missing the throttle lever on a troy built chipper with this type of carb and the linkage looks the same. in the video, I see the one screw that hold the lever on but don't see the other end of it and how it's attached. Can you buy the throttle lever. I think I may have to just manufacture one to replace it.
Hi Taryl, what’s the part number for the carburetor rebuild kit?
I remember them older carbs and the old 3.5 B and S carbs with the side plate for the chokes .
What is the part number for that teflon washer on the emulsion tube? Ebay I guess?
Sure glad I found this before I dismantled my carb! I have gas leaking from around the hi speed jet. Is that a problem with the float? Thanks
Having this problem now - I think it’s the needle missing the rubber tip. Ever fix?
It's either the tapered seat where the high speed emulsion tube screws in, there was a teflon sealing washer on this guy's which he flicked off, OR it's the o-ring which seals around the needle that screws into the emulsion tube. Either way, your comment is 4 years old and i'm sure you've found a fix now :p
Omg Taryl
You saved my carbs life tonight.
I damn well know how to take a carb apart... Gulp
And when the fuel bowl wouldn't come off..
Whimpers. I finally begged my grandma for her smart phone and dialed you up interspace
Well thanks a bunch
Our 8 hp BNS generator
With the 2 piece flow jet carb. Is almost back together. Grandma
Where's my dinner!
so purple power is ok for this kind of carb?!
Hey taryl, on the one piece carb how do you remove the choke shaft and large Welch plug
Hi Taryl great sense of humour I enjoy your skits.Would like to ask you if the Booger on the hi speed tube was some sort of 'o' ring ? I have a large two piece Flojet carb and it is forever leaking after engine shut down . Read somewhere that there was a small type of 0 ring installed there to help the taper to seal in the carb body. Do you know of this, and would it be the remedy?
+Neil Fleming They did offer a teflon ring but its been discontinued. A small piece of teflon tape may work.
+Taryl Fixes All Thanks for your time answering the question .Going to try your tip .Hey do you think that I could borrow Andy or Slippers to install the tape,those small hands would come in handy- LOL .
i believe the booger you removed at 9:30 was a teflon washer used to seal the emulsion tube to the bowl on a leaky flo-jet, per Briggs 1996 update
^This .
Hahaha that little booger
391413 #
Taryl for President!!!
Thanks for the nozzle tip suggesting first one I did I didn't remove it and got lucky I have more to do and will be removing it next time thanks
Thk u sir for sharing your knowledge
I am currently rebuilding this carburetor (soaking in vinegar right now).
1) Shouldn't there be a gasket between the carb and air horn support against the bowl? None shown in parts diagram or video
2) Mine is a snow blower with a non-adjustable tube intake unlike the air horn. When mounting on carb, 1/4" space when installed and air horn in video shows a flush fit. Aso, there is no gasket and non shown on parts list unlike the video 16:53. Should I drill a hole and make it flush and also get/make gasket? model 190412, type 1024-01
3) Everyone questions your tee shirt when i wear it. I watched your video 3 times before starting this project.
I made that mistake with the fuel nozzle years ago when I first started working on these carburetors.. and sometimes they do get very stuck in there.
Great Video and information. Looks like Uncle Andy got washed away with the turds.
Are there any option to replace these updraft with regular carb? I have a few of these engines and it's a pain in the tuchus to get them running for the first time
any luck?
I just did this on my 78 Ryan Sodcutter!
Have you ever had a clogged, stubborn carb passage and drilled out the bb like plug ? Would jb weld seal it back up ?
Rebuilt everything, starts,runs, etc. but gas leaks out the bottom bolt. Is there a o ring there? or is something not adjusted right?
+Arnold Johnson If it's the bolt that secures the control plate then the needle & seat are leaking. If it's leaking from the adjusting screw then yes there is a o-ring. If its leaking a tiny bit then stops its just some fuel being sucked up & settles in the lower carb. body from when the engine wound down to stop It continues to create vacuum and continues to suck up fuel.
+Taryl Fixes All Thank you!! Your videos are awesome!!!
That brass nozzle I'll soak it overnight with PB blaster then work it in and out backing it up little by little 👍
You always put out great information Taryl, but I need to correct you on one little thing. WD40 is NOT a lubricant. WD=Water Displacement and the 40 is the number of formulas it took to get to the finished product. LMT By PB Blaster (LMT=Lawn Mower Tuneup)...Now THERS YUR DINNER!! Just a little friendly helpful tidbit. I spent years thinking WD40 was the answer to all my lubricating needs until I was shown how it actually dries out any surface. It was originally developed for NASA as a means to remove moisture from electrical components and somewhere along the lines, people started thinking on their own, that it was a miracle lubricant. Hope this little bit of information is helpful! Cheers!! Zip~ p.s. Give LMT by PB Blaster a try!
If that's the case why do ALL stores sell it as a lubricant?
ZippoVarga mostly kerosene.
ZippoVarga WD is garbage,on the whole.
Rusted stuck or cleaning something OK whatever.
Turns to a gummy varnish with time
Deep Creep by Sea foam is a nice fine oil.
my grandpa had those screw drivers ...... he died in 88, thanks for reminding me , his briggs ran for over 40 yrs ... wish they still made the cast iro flatheads
That motorcycle is awesome
Thank you!
Timely, I bought a chinesium unit that won't take fuel through the needle valve. Among other things,
little, or no responce from the needle adjusters. Rather than take it apart, I'm going send it back.
So now I dive into the old one. 20,000 ! Hrs. on the clock.
What Model engine is this
little propane torch can loosen that emulsion tube if stuck and aluminum is good heat sink and won't melt but might warp if using to much heat to quickly so small flame and 5 minutes usually works👍
I have this engine 194412-0122-01 and my local shop replaced the ball and rachet recoil starter with the new type that has pawls. I don't see anyone who has done a video yet on how to replace the pawls when they break. I tried to order the pawls but was told I have to buy the entire recoil starter for my 8 hp b&s engine. I see the pawls for sale at major stores via online, but the ones online are 1 1/2 and my engine takes 1 1/4 inch so they have to be cut down. Taryl seems to know ways to fix problems for less so if a part number is known please do a video or do a video how to fix the new style recoil starter for the 8 hp b&s when the pawls break. Great tip about the jet breaking, I didn't know and may have broken mine, I will have to check it. My engine is on a 4.4 KW coleman engine generator I have not had running right for awhile now. I replaced the carb and could only get the engine to run for about 20 minitues before it would die. I cleaned the flywheel and replaced the ignition coil and replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the plastic gas tank and replaced the petcock even had the local engine shop work on it and no improvement when the housing rusted out and the recoil starter broke. I replaced the housing and now at the point trying repair the new style recoil starter. Great videos thanks for doing them.
Great CGI Taryl just like "Land of the Giants"!
9:31 that was Teflon gasket (booger) you took off to stop the carb from leaking
It's very hard to find a repair manual for a 1992 B&S 5 HP self propelled walk behind mower. I've cleaned and rebuilt the carb, and this mower has a mechanical governor located under the shroud. I have no problem starting the mower, but the idle mixture screw doesn't seem to work. I can seat that screw all the way, and the motor doesn't choke out. I can go 5 to 6 full turns counter clockwise, and still wont choke out. I adjusted idle screw and speed screw,and speed control cable as well..............beats the hell out of me to why the motor revs up like it's going to fly off. My brain is drain Taryl. Any idea what else could be wrong and why the idle mixture screw doesn't work?
+Real Gagne That screw is for the low speed circuit for the carb. The bowl nut is the main jet. If the motor is screaming thats the governor. If yur unable to set the governor then the chances are the governor is broken inside the engine. The spring on the mower is the governor spring & if its not the correct spring that too will make it scream. Check out my how-to adjust a governor video that may help you to repair the mower. Remember all governor systems work the same they just have different arm & lever set ups. But the spring is what regulates the speed more tension on the spring more engine speed. Less tension less speed but it has to be the spring for that engine.
+Taryl Fixes All ...........I've set that governor 10 times over. It starts great at full throttle, but it over revs.
As far as the idle mixture screw goes, I know I have to be at my lowest speed on my control, but when I start slowing it down from full throttle............it chokes out after backing it up just 2 clicks. I'm trying to get it down to about 2000 rpm or so to set that screw.............guess I'm gonna have to pull the motor and see the governor gear..............I've tried everything that I know..........thnx Taryl
+Taryl Fixes All ......I downloaded the parts catalog that B&S said included my model, but some parts don't look anything like the ones on my motor. I wish I could send you pictures via e-mail if I could so you could see the governor spring (not in catalog), and governor arm. I've watched 100's of videos on this, but none come close to the 1992 B&S 5 HP quantum model 126702...type 3120-01.....code 92011456. I wish I could find a repair manual on that particular motor......Let me know if I can send pictures.
Send them to our facebook page. Taryl fixes all
+Taryl Fixes All thanks for all your help Mr. T. I appreciate all your videos.
Unfortunately I don't have FaceBlock to send pics of my carbutrator or Briggs and Strapon motor :-)
Where are you located?
Jr should have done his thing on Slippers and Andy when he had the chance. At least Andy is gone.
You didn’t go through the Governor linkage hookup and possible setting
Thanks
the cheap dollar-store oven cleaner works great to clean stuff too and it doesn't take the paint off and it takes all the grease off
Good video!!!!!!
Taryl, I flushed a Turd that looked just like that Slippers but, mine didn't come back.I guess im just lucky.
Looks like Slippers RE hydrated LOL Nonc Andy is lost in the pipe somewhere. He'll pop up in the toilet later just like the lil turds do after the flush LOL !!!!
Ha ha! He's a floater!
Ah, a fuel nozzle screw inside a fuel nozzle screw. That's why mine was still stopped up lol
Got a copy of the parts catalog through Google
That "booger" was a teflon sealing washer!
Better hope Andy doesn't find his way back up that terlet when a customer is sitting there taking a load off his mind!
Lol! That's what I always call it! Taking a load off my mind!
Slippers pointed left and said "off to the right" then vise versa.
Arrr, the old Briggs & Strapon....
Carburetor rebuild kits can be found here isavetractors.com/by-engine-model/briggs-stratton/
Like e information. Just a little too much "carbatraitor". I work on engines of all types for a living and have done so for 40 years. In the background of my picture here you see my shop at work. Actual shop is 40X50 feet with 24X70 storage area also. Gonna subscribe and see what ya got for info. I still get stumped now and again with some of these small engines. I taught myself on small ones. Certified in all systems of all GM cars and trucks built up to 1994. Automatic and manual transmissions, fuel injection, climate control and specialized electronics for the "computer car". LOL
and there's your dinner
I could do without the poor accent and silly accent and fake teech, but that's just me. I'm here to learn, and I learned. Thank you very much, keep up the great work!!
My 8 hp Updraft starts right up, runs at any RPM you give it, and in 5 minutes shuts off like you hit a kill button. starts right back up...starts to die, choke it, it will recover...than it shuts off...Anyone out there no whats up with this thing I've rebuilt the carb twice. thats easy. Thank you
So does Slippers smell Tarylible?
Fishing bait Lololo