Print Farm Owner Here. One tip I can give people with the problems of the cardboard spools in the ams is that you can put electrical tape around the edges of the spools for almost perfect grip. works almost better than plastic spools and doesnt leave a cardboard dust mess. No need for those dumb plastic liners around your spools. Also consider a spool weight if you are having issues with the spool rolling in and out of your ams and lodging itself on the top cover of your ams.
is there a way to slice it such that there's only one or two layers of different material on the supports? I would imagine that'd cut down on filament changes a lot
@@justinpedersen9174 Yes you set the support interface to PLA but the leave the support itself as PETG, that way it only does a filament change on the final layer of support. On prints with basically flat supports this works really well.
If you are having adhesion issues with textured PEI you are doing something wrong. Keep your greasy meat sticks off the bed and be very careful to never touch it. If anything I would say it holds almost too well most of the time. That nasty looking glue-stick stained plate is unnecessary.
I touch my PEI build plate all the time and have no adhesion issues. Maybe I have clean hands, but these build plates are awesome are other than texture, I see no real reason to swap it out for pla or petg
I've never understood why people go through the trouble of printing that tool head holder when it is just far easier to pop the one connector for the fan on and off. As for actual mods, the one that allows you to add the A1 silicone wiper in line with the existing wiper is probably the single best one for those of us who do a bunch of multi material printing. I've never had a failed print due to wipes being drug back into the print area since doing that.
I may be wrong but I think you run the risk of the connector breaking over time through repeated connecting and disconnecting, so it may be preferable to securely place the holder off to the side instead. That is my best guess though.
@@fitzgeraldlewisI recently had to take the cover off to check for stuck filament in the PTFE tube and the official guide tells you to just take that connector out so it's probably fine.
@@fitzgeraldlewis removed the cover over one hundred times now due to repeat Extruder failures, absolutely no issues to date but I understand this concern. This connector likely has a cycle life of 500-1000 uses before its worn out
@fitzgeraldlewis good point, maybe a small pcb with male and female connectors, and a microswitch to connect and disconnect would be enough to avoid physically connecting and disconnecting the cable.
I am just learning, but I just learned, My P1S gets heat creep on TPU and flexible PLA. Covering up the top of the head for the dust cover will propagate heat creep. I know it doesn't matter to most people, but I thought I'd add that.
@@Iamdudeman12 probably. that gap is probably there by design and for cooling. when doing mods like this, you always run the risk of hurting more than helping due to the fact you are really trying to fix something that isn't broken. print in clean enviorment/service your printer and you will be fine.
I haven't used any glue or any other adhesion helper on my P1S textured plate. I've printed PLA and PETG, and both stick perfectly fine. Most prints are impossible to get off without bending the plate or getting something underneath the print. The only thing you may need after a while is a bit of Isopropanol alcohol (IPA) to remove the grease from your fingers. Other than that, you simply don't need anything.
You’re not supposed to use glue on textured pei in the first place and is likely why he’s having issues with adhesion anyways. Iv never once used glue on textured pei
Great video - Thanks! I like the idea of that PEX plate and just ordered one. I bought a Bambu X1C from Microcenter, opting for the additional $300 extended warrantee plan. Maybe a big pill to swallow, but having a walk-up replacement guarantee instead of having to deal with Bambu in China helped me sleep better. About two weeks into owning it, something went wrong with the AMS and I ended up returning the printer and getting another one as a walk in replacement. All I really needed was an AMS, but all they could do was replace "the whole shooting match". So be it. I get home to find that the second printer had a smooth plate (whereas the first printer came with the textured plate). I decided I really liked the textured plate better (no glue needed, at least with PLA), and bought an additional textured plate. That left me with a smooth plate for smooth finishes (and a pain in the a$$ dealing with glue), or a textured plate that had a finish that wasn't always desirable. Now, along comes a matte finish plate that requires no glue, and no funky patterns? Bring it on!
Great timing for your upload, I was looking for EXACTLY this since I just ordered my P1S and saw it was just uploaded 5 hours ago. Great vid, will be printing most of these!
My thoughts exactly! I would be more eager to use silicone moulds instead if any at all due to that exact reason since i'm sure there was a team of engineers foreseeing the overheating issues.
Best P1S mods video I have seen. All super useful. Would it be possible for you to link the magnets and connectors you used for the smoothy mount? Thanks! Again, great video!!!
Due to the possible overheating complications down the line, I would be more eager to use silicone moulds or maybe even none at all since i'm sure there was a team of BambuLab engineers foreseeing the overheating issues hence the gaps and vents in the original design.
If you look for 'long drop poop chute' you will find the one I designed that lets you have the poop go into a container underneath the table it is sitting on. I have 2 printers sitting side by side so I dont have the room for the side bucket which is also much smaller.
Great help with add ons. But the Fan cover plate when printed doesn't have the holds just a cover. I did all 3 listed nothing all came out with no holds
strange oppinion as a ender 3 pro to p1s changer.. Its sad that the p1s is pretty close to beeing perfect. I loved to heavaly modify it and build around it to make it 0.1% better. if its installing a pythingy or making extruding ever so slighty better. im IMMENSLY happy with my p1s since my failpraint%rate went from 70% with the ender, down to 5% since i use custom and hard fillaments. but still. You cant print stuff to ''upgrade'' the p1s to make it better. Anyone feel like that? Its still one of the best decisions ive made but. still. theres this thing in the back of my head as a hobbyuser of 3d printing.
hi there new p1s owner, had it a week. had other printers before but new to bambu. trying to print the fan cover, anyone know why there are no holes in it when i import it into bambu studio
Can someone let me know what the grey thing on the back of his printer is that has the tubing running into it? I don't have that. I feel like it's a cleaner of some sort and I'd like to look more into it.
@@svgPhoenix Ah 💀 I wasn't planning on covering it as I figured it's there for a reason, but yeah. Definitely won't be doing so now. All these "dust protections" seem unnecessary anyway. I do like the chamber fan one though, I'm dumb enough to get something stuck in there lol
This 3D printing concept just got next-level! Forget pushing plastic through a nozzle, what if we built objects from the inside out, layer by layer, with a two part container? Imagine a two-part vat that spins while a fancy nozzle sprays a special resin, building the object layer by layer. But here's the twist: a UV light zaps each layer to harden it, and tiny magnets outside the vat can manipulate the resin for even crazier designs! Think dissolvable layers hidden within the object, or even tiny components placed precisely using magnetic fields. This "Morphing Matrix" could be a game-changer, letting us print objects with hidden compartments or even self-assembling parts! #FuturePrinting #MindBlown What do you guys think? Could this be the future of 3D printing?
Print Farm Owner Here. One tip I can give people with the problems of the cardboard spools in the ams is that you can put electrical tape around the edges of the spools for almost perfect grip. works almost better than plastic spools and doesnt leave a cardboard dust mess. No need for those dumb plastic liners around your spools. Also consider a spool weight if you are having issues with the spool rolling in and out of your ams and lodging itself on the top cover of your ams.
Use a PLA support interface layer on your PETG prints (or vice versa), the support will just fall away because PETG and PLA don't stick to each other.
Genius!
is there a way to slice it such that there's only one or two layers of different material on the supports? I would imagine that'd cut down on filament changes a lot
@@justinpedersen9174 Yes you set the support interface to PLA but the leave the support itself as PETG, that way it only does a filament change on the final layer of support. On prints with basically flat supports this works really well.
Nice tip man thanks@@whatsup3d
I tried vice versa and PLA simply clogged where I had to disassemble the extruder.
If you are having adhesion issues with textured PEI you are doing something wrong. Keep your greasy meat sticks off the bed and be very careful to never touch it. If anything I would say it holds almost too well most of the time. That nasty looking glue-stick stained plate is unnecessary.
You had me at meat sticks
I touch my PEI build plate all the time and have no adhesion issues. Maybe I have clean hands, but these build plates are awesome are other than texture, I see no real reason to swap it out for pla or petg
I've never understood why people go through the trouble of printing that tool head holder when it is just far easier to pop the one connector for the fan on and off. As for actual mods, the one that allows you to add the A1 silicone wiper in line with the existing wiper is probably the single best one for those of us who do a bunch of multi material printing. I've never had a failed print due to wipes being drug back into the print area since doing that.
I may be wrong but I think you run the risk of the connector breaking over time through repeated connecting and disconnecting, so it may be preferable to securely place the holder off to the side instead. That is my best guess though.
@@fitzgeraldlewisI recently had to take the cover off to check for stuck filament in the PTFE tube and the official guide tells you to just take that connector out so it's probably fine.
@@fitzgeraldlewis removed the cover over one hundred times now due to repeat Extruder failures, absolutely no issues to date but I understand this concern. This connector likely has a cycle life of 500-1000 uses before its worn out
@fitzgeraldlewis good point, maybe a small pcb with male and female connectors, and a microswitch to connect and disconnect would be enough to avoid physically connecting and disconnecting the cable.
I am just learning, but I just learned, My P1S gets heat creep on TPU and flexible PLA. Covering up the top of the head for the dust cover will propagate heat creep. I know it doesn't matter to most people, but I thought I'd add that.
So it makes it worst? I'm confused
@@Iamdudeman12 bump
@@Iamdudeman12 probably. that gap is probably there by design and for cooling. when doing mods like this, you always run the risk of hurting more than helping due to the fact you are really trying to fix something that isn't broken. print in clean enviorment/service your printer and you will be fine.
awesome video, saved it for a later watch for when my P1S arrives
I haven't used any glue or any other adhesion helper on my P1S textured plate. I've printed PLA and PETG, and both stick perfectly fine. Most prints are impossible to get off without bending the plate or getting something underneath the print. The only thing you may need after a while is a bit of Isopropanol alcohol (IPA) to remove the grease from your fingers. Other than that, you simply don't need anything.
It's got to be the highest alcohol content. I used the lower, and it doesn't work as good!
You’re not supposed to use glue on textured pei in the first place and is likely why he’s having issues with adhesion anyways. Iv never once used glue on textured pei
Great video - Thanks! I like the idea of that PEX plate and just ordered one. I bought a Bambu X1C from Microcenter, opting for the additional $300 extended warrantee plan. Maybe a big pill to swallow, but having a walk-up replacement guarantee instead of having to deal with Bambu in China helped me sleep better. About two weeks into owning it, something went wrong with the AMS and I ended up returning the printer and getting another one as a walk in replacement. All I really needed was an AMS, but all they could do was replace "the whole shooting match". So be it. I get home to find that the second printer had a smooth plate (whereas the first printer came with the textured plate). I decided I really liked the textured plate better (no glue needed, at least with PLA), and bought an additional textured plate. That left me with a smooth plate for smooth finishes (and a pain in the a$$ dealing with glue), or a textured plate that had a finish that wasn't always desirable. Now, along comes a matte finish plate that requires no glue, and no funky patterns? Bring it on!
Very nice. Thanks for the info and links! Looking forward for part 2.
This video is underrated, 10/10 video!
Thank you!!
Great timing for your upload, I was looking for EXACTLY this since I just ordered my P1S and saw it was just uploaded 5 hours ago. Great vid, will be printing most of these!
The cable tidy is one of the best 👍
There is probably a reason why Bamboo Labs left the holes in the back and on the top, possibly for heat-related reasons. Just throwing that out there.
My thoughts exactly! I would be more eager to use silicone moulds instead if any at all due to that exact reason since i'm sure there was a team of engineers foreseeing the overheating issues.
Best P1S mods video I have seen. All super useful. Would it be possible for you to link the magnets and connectors you used for the smoothy mount? Thanks! Again, great video!!!
Due to the possible overheating complications down the line, I would be more eager to use silicone moulds or maybe even none at all since i'm sure there was a team of BambuLab engineers foreseeing the overheating issues hence the gaps and vents in the original design.
very good video i would like to see some more when you can
I saw you used one of my designs for the dust cover!! I have also designed some stuff for the a1 mini too if you would like to check it out.
u missed... the glue didnt go into the trash man 🙅
Good stuff, thanks bro!
Thank you for this video.
Is there a Way to use a little iPad as a P1S screen? And not the small one that comes in the package!
Looks like you also should print a new door handle 😀
Ahhhhh good ones! I used tapes came with packaging.....
If you look for 'long drop poop chute' you will find the one I designed that lets you have the poop go into a container underneath the table it is sitting on. I have 2 printers sitting side by side so I dont have the room for the side bucket which is also much smaller.
Great help with add ons. But the Fan cover plate when printed doesn't have the holds just a cover. I did all 3 listed nothing all came out with no holds
what type of filament are you using to print all the upgrades?
good afternoon i was just wondering whats the part thats holding all your filament spools ? Thank you
One word. Merely Wonderful. Oops, two words.
Challenge: Make a poop shoot that looks like the human centipede. 😂
Nice collection of mods all in one place.
strange oppinion as a ender 3 pro to p1s changer..
Its sad that the p1s is pretty close to beeing perfect. I loved to heavaly modify it and build around it to make it 0.1% better. if its installing a pythingy or making extruding ever so slighty better.
im IMMENSLY happy with my p1s since my failpraint%rate went from 70% with the ender, down to 5% since i use custom and hard fillaments. but still. You cant print stuff to ''upgrade'' the p1s to make it better. Anyone feel like that?
Its still one of the best decisions ive made but. still. theres this thing in the back of my head as a hobbyuser of 3d printing.
MY PRINTER WORKS JUST FINE why do I keep wanting to mod it... one of these days i'll ruin my printer I swear....
6:00 why not just unplug it?
hi there new p1s owner, had it a week. had other printers before but new to bambu. trying to print the fan cover, anyone know why there are no holes in it when i import it into bambu studio
any build plate like the wham bam that I can buy from amazon?
..so, where is the free bambu?
So you covered all the hole for the dust not to get in
But printed an accessory that leave the top cover open 😂
yes, based on what type of filament ya think?
So true 🤣
Can someone let me know what the grey thing on the back of his printer is that has the tubing running into it? I don't have that. I feel like it's a cleaner of some sort and I'd like to look more into it.
Part of the AMS ( automatic material system) . He also showcases a cable tidy link is in the description
@@davesmith3562 Yup I just got an AMS and found it lol
The tool head cover wont work for anyone using the mods that put the ptfe tube at the optimal angle. Some good choices for mods overall.
Bro There where a lot of Trash upgrades That already got better Versions lol.
2:44 what's that hole even for?
It's a hot air exhaust for the hotend fan. Not a good idea to cover it
@@svgPhoenix Ah 💀 I wasn't planning on covering it as I figured it's there for a reason, but yeah. Definitely won't be doing so now. All these "dust protections" seem unnecessary anyway. I do like the chamber fan one though, I'm dumb enough to get something stuck in there lol
you dont need glue to put on textured pei sheet and it sticks better to pei texture
I never understood the glue, even on my ender 3( original) I never needed it
This 3D printing concept just got next-level! Forget pushing plastic through a nozzle, what if we built objects from the inside out, layer by layer, with a two part container?
Imagine a two-part vat that spins while a fancy nozzle sprays a special resin, building the object layer by layer. But here's the twist: a UV light zaps each layer to harden it, and tiny magnets outside the vat can manipulate the resin for even crazier designs!
Think dissolvable layers hidden within the object, or even tiny components placed precisely using magnetic fields. This "Morphing Matrix" could be a game-changer, letting us print objects with hidden compartments or even self-assembling parts! #FuturePrinting #MindBlown
What do you guys think? Could this be the future of 3D printing?
DUDE. If this concept became reality it would be a game changer.
Next upgrade: NITRO BUTTON 😉
Most are useless mods
What percentage?
So it is still a huge filament waster and slow as ful when using more than one filament. No thanks.
What’s the alternative? U wanna buy a Prusa xl for like 4 times the money or what
We modded the printers cause its the only way to make it work LOL