I've seen this bridge sanding technique to increase the contact of the bridge feet and compensate for leaning, however if you move the bridge side to side rather than forward and backward (only moving 1/4 of an inch total) it gives more control and less choppy drag across the sandpaper while still matching the arch of the top quite accurately. You can still lean the back of the bridge into the sandpaper to help counteract any forward leaning when the strings are tensioned up. These videos are quite informative since I have this exact model Kentucky KM-630.
Cumberland Acoustics makes some of the best mandolin bridges in the world. They also make and sell a jig/tool to attach to the new bridge that makes sanding and fitting the bridge base easier. It's made to sand the bridge length ways across the top, not side to side. There are some videos on the tube on how to use it. Stew Mac also sold a similar jig that worked the same way.
@@waynesworldofmandolin3616 I want to see how you do it, I've seen it done a few ways, may try it on mine man. I really like your videos and appreciate what you do to teach people your craft. Also, its cool that its done on a budget, I cant wait to see what it will sound like.
Very good video, Wayne. Thanks for sharing this valuable info. I learned that a violin bridge is fitted with a slight rear camber to bisect the string/s angle at the contact point. Makes sense to me!
Yep. I've heard fiddle players complain about the bridge leaning forward over time, even to the point of falling. This approach to bridge fit is common on banjo also.....
Gilligan’s Island! 😄 Just don’t get too indulged with the show while loosing focus on that bridge sanding! Enjoyed this video, Wayne! 👍 Can’t wait to view Part 4!
I’m working on lowering the action on a second hand KM-500. The saddle is already bottomed out on the thumb wheels. Do you see any problems with continuing to sand the base of the bridge ( not the saddle ) even to the point of full contact all the way across to accomplish lower string height?
Wayne, instead of moving it forward/ and back, you should be moving it side to side, about 1/4 or 5/16 inch side to side, favoring a slight back slope, ever so slightly. That way you don't get a round-ish bottom to the actual bridge itself. I watched the proper adjustment to bridges at the Flatiron shop back in the early 90s. With strings on the mandos they stood almost perpendicular to the top. When I set my bridge to my A-5 I did it that way and since '94 the bridge has never leaned forward noticably. Thanks for mentioning this fitting procedure, but it's not entirely accurate. Just side to side a small amount and 220 will do, just takes a bit longer. Also put pencil marks on the under side. When the marks are gone and no visible "daylight" under bridge to top (or ability to slide a piece of printer paper under the fit) it should be a good fit. Try side to side (1/4 inch). You will have a better result. Use pencil marks to help see what needs to be sanded off. Cheers, my friend. PS you will always be a better mando player than I will ever be. Bob
This is poor advice. This assumes the arch of the top to be consistent across the width of the soundboard, which is highly unlikely to be true. With the minimal forward-to-back movements Wayne employs the problem "robert" raises is not a problem. Plus, this way the bridge will be fitted more suitably for adjustment for intonation If this technique is good enough for Ted Woodford as well as Wayne, then it's what I'll use.
I own this same model and lately the going price for a decent used one is about $300-$500 did you ever tell us what you paid for it? or I am wondering if maybe your saving that for the end.😉
I've seen this bridge sanding technique to increase the contact of the bridge feet and compensate for leaning, however if you move the bridge side to side rather than forward and backward (only moving 1/4 of an inch total) it gives more control and less choppy drag across the sandpaper while still matching the arch of the top quite accurately. You can still lean the back of the bridge into the sandpaper to help counteract any forward leaning when the strings are tensioned up. These videos are quite informative since I have this exact model Kentucky KM-630.
Thx for the advice! I will definitely try that on my next bridge fit......
Cumberland Acoustics makes some of the best mandolin bridges in the world. They also make and sell a jig/tool to attach to the new bridge that makes sanding and fitting the bridge base easier. It's made to sand the bridge length ways across the top, not side to side. There are some videos on the tube on how to use it. Stew Mac also sold a similar jig that worked the same way.
Good point but wouldn't you lose the pinacle of the arch going side to side?
Can't wait to see your speed neck video, thanks for sharing.
Thx for the comment Troy. I'm hopin to make that video soon....
@@waynesworldofmandolin3616 I want to see how you do it, I've seen it done a few ways, may try it on mine man. I really like your videos and appreciate what you do to teach people your craft. Also, its cool that its done on a budget, I cant wait to see what it will sound like.
Very good video, Wayne. Thanks for sharing this valuable info. I learned that a violin bridge is fitted with a slight rear camber to bisect the string/s angle at the contact point. Makes sense to me!
Yep. I've heard fiddle players complain about the bridge leaning forward over time, even to the point of falling. This approach to bridge fit is common on banjo also.....
@@waynesworldofmandolin3616 Bisecting makes sense. I’m sure it has a stabilizing effect on the foot plant, too. 👍
Gilligan’s Island! 😄 Just don’t get too indulged with the show while loosing focus on that bridge sanding! Enjoyed this video, Wayne! 👍 Can’t wait to view Part 4!
Coming soon!
I watched Mayberry RFD instead! Thank you for posting this.
I’m working on lowering the action on a second hand KM-500. The saddle is already bottomed out on the thumb wheels.
Do you see any problems with continuing to sand the base of the bridge ( not the saddle ) even to the point of full contact all the way across to accomplish lower string height?
That's exactly what I would do in that situation. Good luck....
Works on Hofner basses and arch top guitars too ! 😊
😉
Very cool!
Thx. Check out parts 1 and 2 if you didn't already.....
@@waynesworldofmandolin3616 Saw them earlier. Great idea for lesson, especially for us neophytes
You’re hired!!! When can you start? 🤣
😁
Need help my mandolin everytime keeps getting off tune like half stop after everytime I play its kinda annoying, was it related to the bridge problem?
If your mandolin is going out of tune that easily it most likely isn't the bridge causing it. Could be an issue with the tuners.
Wayne, instead of moving it forward/ and back, you should be moving it side to side, about 1/4 or 5/16 inch side to side, favoring a slight back slope, ever so slightly. That way you don't get a round-ish bottom to the actual bridge itself. I watched the proper adjustment to bridges at the Flatiron shop back in the early 90s. With strings on the mandos they stood almost perpendicular to the top. When I set my bridge to my A-5 I did it that way and since '94 the bridge has never leaned forward noticably. Thanks for mentioning this fitting procedure, but it's not entirely accurate. Just side to side a small amount and 220 will do, just takes a bit longer. Also put pencil marks on the under side. When the marks are gone and no visible "daylight" under bridge to top (or ability to slide a piece of printer paper under the fit) it should be a good fit. Try side to side (1/4 inch). You will have a better result. Use pencil marks to help see what needs to be sanded off. Cheers, my friend. PS you will always be a better mando player than I will ever be. Bob
Thx for the advice Bob! I'll definitely keep this in mind on my next "bridge fitting".....
This is poor advice. This assumes the arch of the top to be consistent across the width of the soundboard, which is highly unlikely to be true. With the minimal forward-to-back movements Wayne employs the problem "robert" raises is not a problem. Plus, this way the bridge will be fitted more suitably for adjustment for intonation If this technique is good enough for Ted Woodford as well as Wayne, then it's what I'll use.
I own this same model and lately the going price for a decent used one is about $300-$500 did you ever tell us what you paid for it? or I am wondering if maybe your saving that for the end.😉
Time will tell.....