I used a green scotch brite pad on the neck of my first mandolin, which was an Epiphone A style. I made a huge difference and I wasn't afraid I would screw it up too much in the process.
Definitely doing this tonight on my Eastman MD815! Tired of my hand getting hung up on the neck. I've heard of people applying mineral oil after they sand it, but that's probably if you're taking it down to bare wood, which does seem unnecessary. Glad I watched this vid! I'll probably do this to my Martin guitar, as well.
I would do this between string changes so you can wipe the dust off really well. It's gonna be everywhere. I'd even cover the holes w/ painter's tape first. Assuming your bridge position is dialed, mark the bridge position by placing little piece of painter's tape on both sides of it & mark where the top & bottom sits on the tape with a fine sharpie. Or just mark the 4 corners directly on the Mando if you're not too worried about it.
Nope. I've sold or traded every Bush model I've ever owned trying to make other deals work or raise money for other purchases. I sure hope to have another one at some point.....
I sure hope not! My plan is to follow this video up and finish the series inside of one month of releasing this one. I can't wait to hear what it sounds like....
@@waynesworldofmandolin3616 Well i guess it's good to busy, if it's the right kind of busy... Love your lessons Wayne...I'll keep watching for the part 5... and Cumberland acoustics sell a great bridge jig makes a perfect fitting bridge.......
I used a green scotch brite pad on the neck of my first mandolin, which was an Epiphone A style. I made a huge difference and I wasn't afraid I would screw it up too much in the process.
Yep. That does sound like a potential safer approach. Thx for sharing...
Definitely doing this tonight on my Eastman MD815! Tired of my hand getting hung up on the neck. I've heard of people applying mineral oil after they sand it, but that's probably if you're taking it down to bare wood, which does seem unnecessary. Glad I watched this vid! I'll probably do this to my Martin guitar, as well.
How did those speednecks turn out pal?
Nice! I use brown, green, maroon, then light gray scotch brite! Works well also. Wayne your lessons help me a ton! Thanks
Great to hear!
Thanks for all of the helpful information. Will this gloss back up over time with use or does it usually stay pretty slick?
It should stay slick. I did this same thing to a Yamaha gtr many years ago and the owner now says it still plays great.....
Imma do this to my Washburn mandolin it's new I'm assuming I could do this with the strings on? I don't see what it would hurt any thoughts?
I would do this between string changes so you can wipe the dust off really well. It's gonna be everywhere. I'd even cover the holes w/ painter's tape first. Assuming your bridge position is dialed, mark the bridge position by placing little piece of painter's tape on both sides of it & mark where the top & bottom sits on the tape with a fine sharpie. Or just mark the 4 corners directly on the Mando if you're not too worried about it.
It won't hurt to do it with the strings on. Did it turn out ok?
My grandpa sold you a Sam bush Gibson a few years ago. Do you still have it?
Nope. I've sold or traded every Bush model I've ever owned trying to make other deals work or raise money for other purchases. I sure hope to have another one at some point.....
should i do this on $7000 gibson lol? it would feel so much better
👍
Oh no! not another year of waiting ?
I sure hope not! My plan is to follow this video up and finish the series inside of one month of releasing this one. I can't wait to hear what it sounds like....
@@waynesworldofmandolin3616 Well i guess it's good to busy, if it's the right kind of busy... Love your lessons Wayne...I'll keep watching for the part 5... and Cumberland acoustics sell a great bridge jig makes a perfect fitting bridge.......