While this was highly technical, as a rank beginner who just purchased one of these mandolins from you, I found it both fascinating and reassuring. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you for the in-depth look at the rigorous steeps it takes to do a set up on the mandolin and its assuring that this done on the ones you sell. Rest assure I will be buying my first mandolin from Elderly.
When setting up mandolins I always set the neck dead level with no back bow. On a instrument such as a banjo or guitar you need some bow due to the scale length. Not so with a 14 inch or shorter scale length mandolin. On lowering strings on a nut put a piece of sacrifice material between the headstock and the nut file. You want the string break half of the distance between the head stock angle and the finger board level for best tone setup. Make sure the tail piece is not touching the top plate underneath.
I was actually thinking of buying a mandolin until I saw this. I’m a guitarist and have never had to do much to set them up, other than adjust a truss rod in one. The thought of filing the nut down and accidentally damaging an instrument I just purchased is scary.
Good explanation, very authentic. What I was missing was 1. fret height leveling and 2. fitting the bridge feet to the soundboard (usually requires some sanding). Do you not do these things while performing mandolin setup in Elderly, or perhaps the Kentucky mandolins don't require them?
For the most part, the new instruments do not require them. They certainly need to be looked at, but are not always required during setup, it usually an issue outside of setup.
Great video. I’ve watched it about 10 times. When I measure my scale length of km-150, it’s a bit shorter than the one in the video. If I try to meet the scale length plus comp factor, I’d be past the pick guard. Kentucky website says 354mm. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
This was great, thank you. One question, I was a bit unclear about how to know when the nut slot needs adjusting. You say, "press string between 2nd and 3 fret and you want th gap to be a little smaller than the first one". I wasn't sure what "first one" referred to, the gap at the 7th fret you used to evaluate the truss rod?
William Clark. Get an automotive feeler gauge. Find the 18 thou blade and slide it over the first fret under the strings. There should be not space between the strings and the blade (.018"). Do the same thing at 12th fret with a thickness of 42 to 45 thou. (.042--.045"). A straight neck is fine , but an underbow of .005" is good as well. Get some help holding down the strings at fret 1 and 14th and try to measure this underbow ( relief) at the 7th fret. .005 is about the thickness of a dog hair. If the string is too close to the fret, slack the strings a bit and elevate the saddle a tiny amount. Tune back up to near pitch and test for relief. Do the same to check intonation with a tuner. These steps should get you pretty well set-up
I was under the impression that the saddle should not be adjusted so as not to cause the bridge/saddle to slant towards the nut. Also, what was the measurement of the relief that you were adjusting the truss rod to
Sorry about that! Some of our video production quality was a little rough five years ago. Joe has since retired, as well. Hope you were able to still get some good info from the video!
While this was highly technical, as a rank beginner who just purchased one of these mandolins from you, I found it both fascinating and reassuring. Thank you for posting this.
This is just what I was looking for. Actual methods and measurement numbers for setup. Appreciated
Thank you for the in-depth look at the rigorous steeps it takes to do a set up on the mandolin and its assuring that this done on the ones you sell. Rest assure I will be buying my first mandolin from Elderly.
When setting up mandolins I always set the neck dead level with no back bow. On a instrument such as a banjo or guitar you need some bow due to the scale length. Not so with a 14 inch or shorter scale length mandolin.
On lowering strings on a nut put a piece of sacrifice material between the headstock and the nut file.
You want the string break half of the distance between the head stock angle and the finger board level for best tone setup.
Make sure the tail piece is not touching the top plate underneath.
What Size truss rod wrench for Kentucky mandolins???
this i also want to know
It sounds amazing 💯
Next time, how about the topics on: How to distinquish between good sound and not so good sound on a mandolin? (it seems simple....but it is not)!
Stop sawing dude!
Very rude of him to saw while this guy is doing a video.
Haha! The guy is probably so used to the sound.
I was actually thinking of buying a mandolin until I saw this. I’m a guitarist and have never had to do much to set them up, other than adjust a truss rod in one. The thought of filing the nut down and accidentally damaging an instrument I just purchased is scary.
Good explanation, very authentic. What I was missing was 1. fret height leveling and 2. fitting the bridge feet to the soundboard (usually requires some sanding). Do you not do these things while performing mandolin setup in Elderly, or perhaps the Kentucky mandolins don't require them?
For the most part, the new instruments do not require them. They certainly need to be looked at, but are not always required during setup, it usually an issue outside of setup.
Great video. I’ve watched it about 10 times. When I measure my scale length of km-150, it’s a bit shorter than the one in the video. If I try to meet the scale length plus comp factor, I’d be past the pick guard. Kentucky website says 354mm. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Have you ever used StewMac's abrasive string on the nut slots?
This was great, thank you. One question, I was a bit unclear about how to know when the nut slot needs adjusting. You say, "press string between 2nd and 3 fret and you want th gap to be a little smaller than the first one". I wasn't sure what "first one" referred to, the gap at the 7th fret you used to evaluate the truss rod?
William Clark. Get an automotive feeler gauge. Find the 18 thou blade and slide it over the first fret under the strings. There should be not space between the strings and the blade (.018"). Do the same thing at 12th fret with a thickness of 42 to 45 thou. (.042--.045"). A straight neck is fine , but an underbow of .005" is good as well. Get some help holding down the strings at fret 1 and 14th and try to measure this underbow ( relief) at the 7th fret. .005 is about the thickness of a dog hair. If the string is too close to the fret, slack the strings a bit and elevate the saddle a tiny amount. Tune back up to near pitch and test for relief. Do the same to check intonation with a tuner. These steps should get you pretty well set-up
I was under the impression that the saddle should not be adjusted so as not to cause the bridge/saddle to slant towards the nut. Also, what was the measurement of the relief that you were adjusting the truss rod to
This video would be much better without the loud interfering sound of someone sanding or filing. Nasty!
Sanding sound in the background was very distracting. Also, when you talk while turning your face we can't hear you. It seems like you're mumbling.
Sorry about that! Some of our video production quality was a little rough five years ago. Joe has since retired, as well. Hope you were able to still get some good info from the video!
For crying out loud, and I mean LOUD. Couldn't you stop your cohort long enough to not ruin your video?