The Rise and Fall of Elizabeth and James
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Elizabeth and James today is often remembered as The Row's diffusion line. And though it worked in that manner to help Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen fund The Row in the beginning, it quickly grew from cash cow to star brand for them, standing alone as a successful brand. In fact, Elizabeth and James was significantly more financially successful than The Row for many years and yet quickly made its demise when the company was taken in house, away from it's licensor, and the Olsen twins attempted a rebranding of much higher quality quiet luxury pieces at an affordable price point that just failed to hit the mark. Taking a once well loved brand and removing it from it's already dedicated audience in a way that shows that retailing is seldom about what the owner wants to sell, but what the customer wants to buy. As a result, sales were abysmal, logistics were hard to recuperate and rather quickly the parent company Dualstar was forced to pull the plug ending the line for the once well-loved brand.
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I remember when I asked you to do a video on The Row, and now we have a second video on the twins. I’m so in awe at how smart they are and how they’ve manoeuvred from tabloid child stars to successful yet private businesswomen who have the best of both worlds. The fact that E&J was strategic in their overall journey shows just how smart they are! Thanks again for your videos 😊
Im so glad that you asked for this as a video, I'm so pleased how well received it's been. I agree that I think the twins make some really risky but well planned moves that makes their ventures so interesting to look into
@@understitchYTand thank you more for making it! Yep they really knew what they were doing, ingenious really!
@@understitchYThow did the twins get so business savvy? Did they have some advisors to help navigate these moves
Another fascinating video! I'd be so interested in a Rise and Fall of Agent Provocateur- they seem to have fallen in the zeitgeist and their once yearly sale is now perpetually online.
Oh that'd be so interesting actually
I could kick myself for giving away my E&J clothes/shoes. I got amazing deals at Sal’s during the mid 2000’s recession. Now that silhouette and shoe style is back. 🤦🏽♀️
I like The Row but I’m not paying Dior prices for Helmut Lang lite.
Thanks for the video I didn’t know I needed ❤
helmut lang lite is a deliciously good observation 😂
I'm older, 61, and honestly most everything comes back, slightly different, but you can make it work. Some real oddities of fashion don't return, but enough do!
Diet Helmut Lang is hysterical, and also I agree with Mark. I keep everything because it just comes back around. If anything I'll sew my clothes into something new, but mostly, I just keep things on the back burner for those days I want to dress like a straight guy hahaha
The E&J perfumes were so good. Great video!
Bourbon and Rose were my favorites
I really enjoy how much the perfume community remembers the things they love
Who brought Elizabeth & James perfume back in the day? 🙋🏼♀️😂
Here✋🏻 fantastic perfume line. Would love to bring it back
You never miss. Never. Salute from Brooklyn 🤎
Thank you so much
My favorite perfume of all time is Elizabeth & James Nirvana French Grey. Sorely missed! One of my many weird nicknames I have for my cat is Elizabeth & James.
French Grey is a great cat name
@@understitchYT absolutely! She’s orange LOL
Thank you for a new video and deep dive!! I was somewhat familiar with Elizabeth and James but did not know all of the details. With The Row being so hot right now l think they should keep E+J on ice. As l said in your The Row video, l think they should significantly grow that business by doing a fragrance line like Tom Ford. Great margins with an accessible price point( compared to the RTW) but still on brand with their ultra luxury image. I think this would be more organic and effective than trying to generate income with a diffusion clothing line which could possibly damage the main line. Also think The Row should continue to expand their offerings as far as accessories/ cash cows. The need some signature sunglass styles, silks ala Hermes, some signature costume and fine jewelry styles, neckties for Men, and more footwear , handbags, and slg's options. Their rtw audience tends to be older so after establishing a fragrance line( if they actually do it), roll out a very luxurious cosmetic/ skincare line. Hell, even do a capsule home collection with $300 candles and pillows ,throws, and bedding which could cost thousands of dollars.
Do they still have The Row perfume oils? They were like 500USD for 7ml or something lol.
I agree with you that they should focus on getting a fragrance for TR, it really is ripe for one, and given the audience that E+J's fragrances had, it's already got a built in audience willing to buy, its a no risk, no brainer move they realaly should make
I can listen to you for hours ! ❤ thanks ,amazing video
Me too! I use it as a podcast to sleep to
Oh thank you both so much! And especially thank you for falling asleep to me, thats so good for me in the algorithm
I remember that promotional video from 2006/2007. I thought, well done! Easy pieces that were interchangeable - great for travel and could be dressed up for any occasion. I don't know why it stuck with me (maybe I was traveling too much) but seeing again, I still like it. Simple and well made always works.
Im so glad you enjoyed the video, such a shame when interesting brands like this have a sad ending
Nirvana was such a good scent. Ugh I miss it!
Iconic
Elizabeth + James is actually fire, with lots of thoughtfully designed+ beautiful silk pieces. Lots of them have caught my eye on eBay ❤
oh ebay is a real shout for older E+J pieces
Thank you so much! The graphics were really helpful in understanding the various timelines, changes. I have a really great E&J fragrance.
Oh good, Im so glad, sometimes I think my editing is awful, I'm really trying to improve
Oh, I really like how you edit your videos. @@understitchYT
Oh really? Thank you
So much history behind ELIZABETH AND JAMES, as a Designer that previously worked at Jaya I use to see some of the patterns left that were label "ELIZABETH AND JAMES'. An unfortunate legacy that went in my opinion WRONG even though it funded the Row it could have still been a more lucrative label than the Row. Looks like Alice and Olivia took that spot in the retail market, I wish I was there to design the E & J line back then. I would have definitely fought to keep the aesthetics of the youthful yet trend driven line. Sad it was destroyed by so-called strategic planning, it was an amazing line back then and I always wondered what the heck happened to it.
I think you could be right tbh, if E&J was making money, that's the one I would've put effort into continuing personally, but I do understand their decision to use it to fund The Row in that way, even to the downfall of E&J, it clearly was their dream to own a well respected fashion line and at the end of the day, they have achieved that now, so it worked exactly the way it was menat to
Yes, agree, ultimately it was their dream from Walmart to Intetnationsl Boutique specialty department stores. That's a major accomplishment for them and should be respected, having said that "only the elite can afford the Rows price points". And I guess they did try to make an effort to try to keep their customer that made them the status they are in now. I wish them the best in their dream label " The Row"
Love your videos!
Thank you!!
Really interesting. Thank you. They are a fashion phenomenon. I’m really impressed. In the UK, our equivalent would be Victoria Beckham but she’s a long way behind their heels .
Im so glad you liked the video. Did you see my video on VB? I'd say the brands are quite different
Really enjoyed this! Thank you!
Im so glad, thank you for letting me know
Elizabeth & James had some pretty nice, not too trendy, kinda timelessly looks that I really like…..run on…… would like to see them make a come back but one step up from Kohl’s
Theres not many truly mid-level brands atm, they could do well at that positioning
Someone just asked me about an Elizabeth and James Sweater I wore a lot and I think it got lost in the college community sharing era of my life 🥹
I hate losing clothes. I once lost my favourite Prada vest (like a muscle tank) and it was awful. Special mention goes to my 3.1 Philip Lim shirt I lost too, never forget
A request for a video on Todd Snyder, please! He's from Iowa (my home state!) and is quite successful in NYC's fashion scene.
Ooohh Todd Snyder would be so interesting, idk how many people would watch, but I'm interested
@@understitchYT I hear ya! He may be too niche right now, but his humble Midwest beginnings are very interesting when compared to his place in the sartorial zeitgeist now.
I miss the nirvana black perfume badly (if anyone has any similar recs lmk lol)
came to comment the same, it was my all-time fave and i miss it every day 😔
So much love for this fragrance
Would you be interested in doing a deep dive in carol Christian poell?
Oh I would LOVE to, I adroe their work
I love my E&J Nirvana Black perfume ❤
Such a shame its gone now
@@understitchYT Agreed. I will be unhappy when mine is used up
It goes for a pretty penny on ebay now too, not crazy but enough for me to be surprised
@@understitchYT Dang. Oh well.
Not me watching this in one of my threadbare Stylemint tees😅
Stylemint was such an era 🙌
I thought it was originally called Elizabeth James. (no and)
Not a bad name honestly
Oh Elizabeth & James were IT during the zenith of the blogger era of fashion, I’d say circa 2009 to 2013. The Olsens were really ahead of the curve in terms of the rise of the contemporary segment of womenswear along with brands like Theory, Sandro, Alice + Olivia, etcetera. Basically, if you wanted Proenza Schouler but couldn’t afford it then Elizabeth & James. My friend still has a lovely blazer minidress with an ostrich feather trim at the hem that still looks stunning even after twelve years.
oooohhh that blazer minidress sounds so good. I agree with your thoughts btw, thats exactly who they were targetting
Can't wait to hear your thought about the future of Dries Van Noten and Valentino
Controversial but Dries was never my personal favourite designer, but I like the themes in the brand so much, so Im intrested with what new eyes could do there. For Valentino, I'm so happy they've cancelled couture and mens to give the new design team enough time to really develop an idea instead of rushing it
Ohno I lost my first comment streak 😂
noooooo, next time tho
I have a couple of really nice sterling pieces from the E&J Robert Lee Morris collaboration - it's weird that the same brand later sold to Kohls!
Such a huge difference in quality
The E&J fragrances need to come back!!
Everyone loved them so much!
Do you have plans to do a video on Chloé in the future?
I really want to, I think they're on the cusp of a really big return
@@understitchYT I’d love it if you did in the future, especially with the brand being in the hands of many creative directors and each having different reactions from the public.
Are those two little monsters still torturing innocent creatures for their fur…
Because it's hard to take the treasure trolls seriously as designers.
I mean the row is doing quite well 🤸
Say with ever you want.
But Mary Kate and Ashley, have left their impact on fashion and pop culture.
oh undoubtedly
The name also is very generic. Does not stick
I dont mind it for the mid market. But for luxury I dont think its there
This is what happens when a slickly-marketed BRAND/ PRODUCT (the sisters)
--confuse having SMART PEOPLE behind them...
With they themselves having BUSINESS ACUMEN
Right, taking good advice is not the same as being able to give it yourself
Diversity here: Maurice Sedwell of Saville Row
I would love to do that, but unfortunately I have to be smart and play ball with the algorithm if I want to grow 🤷
remain relevancy XD
Argh why are you doing this? There are so many American fashion companies out there whose histories are much more interesting that this, such as Calvin Klein and Donna Karren
I want to do both very very much, did you know Calvin Klein was one of the only people to speak out against the first Met Gala? Such an interesting person