Your so wrong about the t top MR2s being worth less!!! The most valuable is the hard top. I think all us MR2 fans know that! Next in line is the T top, And least valuable is the sunroof. I have been buying MR2s for 28 years. And this has been my experience. I buy atleast 2 to 3 MR2s a year. The sunroof MR2s always sell for less.
Then we might be dealing with a regional issue here. I assume you are from the USA. In Europe we did not get the sunroof. T-tops here are like 90% of the MR2’s. Not very smart from me to not specify the market I am in. Thanks for the comment btw, I am pinning it so people from other markets are informed.
@@Bl00dwerK I totaled my hardtop last year and was super bummed. Picked up my second t-top this year and it's okay. I just wanted to avoid the sunroof, but retrospectively perhaps I should have gone for a sunroof model since it would be easier to convert than a t-top, but I've always hated sunroofs and thought they were a great place to rust.
Some advice for those looking to own an SW20 for the first time. Don't worry too much about which MR2 you get as all 6 revisions are great cars and pretty much the same besides engine, brakes and suspension which can be upgraded no problem if desired. MR2's only rust up really bad if they are not cleaned very often so as long as they are washed and garaged then you won't have to deal with rust for a long time. Parts is mainly an issue depending on where you live, certain toyota dealerships sell them cheaper than others so shop around. Most frustrating part to replace will be the front bumper as they are discontinued and impossible to repair. These cars are still able to be daily driven, easy to service and economical. With regards to snap oversteer it will not be a problem you encounter if you drive sensibly. There is no need to throw 1000's on fancy suspension to eliminate it either, a simple staggered wheel set up is all you need to tame it. Lastly don't buy cheap tyres. A good set of middle priced tyres at least is not only going to make spirited driving more fun but also safer.
@@kzukiodenthechad7205 wow I'm amazed yours still has the original wheels, that's pretty rare. When i bought mine used it was rolling on 16 inch aftermarket alloys. It ultimately depends on how you drive it, if you're not flinging it into corners at speed then any tire is acceptable. If you are hitting the corners hard then definitely get some tyres from kumho or continental.
@@kzukiodenthechad7205 The original width in 14" is getting extremely hard to find. Even when you do, the choices will be very limited. If you upgrade to larger wheels, you'll have much easier time shopping for tires at wider price range. I put on 17s on mine. But, you need to lower the car if you go from stock 14" to 17". Otherwise, the MR2 will look like an offroader. I lowered mine with coilovers while I was at it. Even going to 16s will give you a lot more choice in tires than 14s. Not sure if you need to lower the car going to 16 (I'm guessing you would). If you're dead on keeping the oem wheel, you'll have hard time finding tires. You may not be able to retain the original stagger...
@@jamescrosby3431 yea before I bought the one I currently have I looked at one that was on a set of Avid’s however that guy did still have the original set of rims, he sold that car out from under me though… but though it was grimey, can’t fully bash him for it, cause he did make up for it by sending me the link for the one I have now that was just put up for sale in my state at the time Edit - Just checked both brands of tires you recommended, Both Kumho and Continental have the Select The Make and Model Search Bar, but doesn’t carry the 195/60 R14 Front / 205/60 R14 Rear in either inventory 😕
@@kzukiodenthechad7205 the values of these cars is starting to rise now because people realise what these cars are capable of and all the other jdm cars are priced out. You've done good to get in when you did, these cars are one of a kind 👍
All is at the start of your ownership : if you can put a bit of money in good tires, a good engine clean up and if you know mechanics or have a friend who knows it, GO ! You won't be disappointed with an MR2. It is a really good mind cleaner and a nice car to learn from. I have mine since 2022 and damn, you can do so much on it without killing the 90' vibe of the car. There is a lot of website or fb groups where they 3d print pieces like originals... edit : I also upgraded a lot of my driving skills since :p
Really like your first point. I don't like how some people think owning an old school sports car is all sunshine and rainbows, never do the research (before owning the car and/or when owning it), then talk trash about the car because "it's unreliable".
What helped me the most with leaking t-top was unclogging the water channels meant to take water away from the seal. I used a long piece of wire and just went back and forth in there. Another thing is that we have to keep in mind is that it's old rubber. It's dry, hard and it has small cracks in it. Now, there is a way to somewhat mitigate this, and that is to apply glycerin. The rubber absorbs it, swells up closing the cracks and improving the seal against the window, and it gets softer and kinda greasy.
Having owned a technically almost stock MR2 coupe for a few years, some things are true and fun to watch. But the snap oversteer was never a problem. This is mainly a problem with turbo models and earlier revisions of the SW20. Also in my eyes the reliability argument is not entirely true, at least for the 156hp n/a version. The car has a not so common lay-out, but the parts in itself are mostly not that complex or unique. I found it an easy car to maintain, however the rust was becoming an issue at certain point. Only costs can get relatively high as there is obviously more labour needed to do work in the engine bay. Anyway, it has always been a great car, I loved that it had no power steering and that it was just simple. Driving was always a joy!
snap oversteer - just continue to look in the direction you want to go and turn your steering wheel in that direction - do not slam in the breaks or handbrake
3:42 that's half of snap steer, it is usually caused by lift off oversteer or just being incredibly aggressive with your inputs. It's not at all just some magic moment where your car decides to unalive you. But the second half that wasn't explained is the overcorrection the makes it "snap" the other way, this is usually a mistake made by people who are used to driving FR platforms. To anyone interested in getting an MR2, don't let snap steer discourage you, just getting a good set of tires and coilovers pretty much makes it a non issue unless you're going far too fast to begin with. Also have of the situations he mentions in the video, I live in, and I plan to daily my '93 Turbo. And my main combatant in part availability is just learning how to fabricate, and not to mention the MR2 community is very welcoming and supportive (I recommend mr2oc for forums).
Yeah I also mentioned in the video that snap oversteer is always a drivers error, but it can definitely catch beginning drivers off-guard. I am not trying to gate-keep MR2's, just trying to inform people that are not very known with the platform. A young driver in my area owned MR2s for TikTok cloud and ended up crashing three nice MR2s. My first MR2 almost financially ruined me because I ignored some very obvious red flags on the car. Well informed buyers will prevent these types of situations for themselves. You seem to be a well informed and experienced car enthusiast, so you can definitely keep this car running very well, however this is not the case for everyone including me a few years back. The MR2 community is indeed an amazing community. I have met quite a lot of cool local MR2 owners here in the Netherlands who also have helped me out with a lot of things. Thanks for your comment! And I wish you a lot of fun times with your MR2!
I have a 1991 MR2 2.2 non turbo. 476,000 miles. Cylinder head is off rebuilding the cooling system. Commuted 110 miles a day. Many parts are interchangeable with Celica, and Camry.
Yeah, definitely with the 2.2, I believe it also uses quite a bit of Camry parts. 2.0 is a bit harder but has some parts shared with the 2.0 Celica. Any plans to turbo the 2.2? 👀
This is a really good video. I always see videos where people just say what we want to hear, but now that i bought my sw20 1 month ago, seeing this video makes me really happy because i can spot good problems and search for many other swaps. I bought my sw20 as a restoration project because he doesnt even run, i tried specially to look only for rust problems and missing parts. I didnt really care if the engine was good. Although i noticed that the seals were leaking water, i have to fix that but as you say, it will be a big problem. But enough of problems. People dream for lamborghini and ferraris, my dream car was this toyota mr2 since i was 15 yrs old. Its everything a car guy could want for a decent price. Mid engine, pop up headlights, t-top, lightweight and toyota reliable. I think that this car was one of the best cars ever made because its a perfect combination between cheap and fun and it looks so fkin nice...
Thanks for the support on the video! Nice to see you are a happy MR2 owner. Hopefully the project will not have to much issues so you can start to enjoy her to the fullest soon.
I have owned a 1992 T-bar since 2008. I have never had any issues with it except, with its age, "bumping" from the two glass roofs. This was easily fixed with asymetric locking rod replacements which cost less than 20 €. Do a YT search for leaking roof repairs to get the spare parts number. It's easy - my friendly repair shop fitted them within a day. Otherwise, this is the most reliable car I have ever owned and is a gas to drive - especially open. It still turns heads and is rare these days. Being mid-engined, it has excellent weight distribution and drives like on rails. Don't overdo it in the rain though - the fat rear tyres will teach you a lesson trying to take corners too sharply at speed. With winter tyres, I drove it to work through ice and snow - the weight on the rear axle is a big help. Unless you drive it like a maniac at top revs, overheating is not a problem. It is also not a gas guzzler and can be economical to drive normally despite its age. Mine is now a registered oldtimer (over 30 years old) with a fixed vintage car tax bracket. Its value has also shot up, overtaking its 1980s cousin. I thought I was mad buying a 2-seater back then, but I was proved wrong. One of the best things I ever did. Don't believe the sensationalist "shock/horror" crap you often see in revue videos. It's just click bait.
Love that first point. Having bought a gen 5 Celica (basically a FWD SW20 MR2), I've learnt that if you buy an old 90s car, you're probably going to want to replace everything that's a gasket or made of rubber :D
As far as what may need to be replaced when buying a 90s car, a lot has to do with the mileage and maintenance history. I sold my 60,000-mile '93 - it was all original, except for routine maintenance.
Even on a 10 years old BMW that i maintained very well with no mechanical failure, in the last year i had to change almost many rubber/plastic parts, sealings and gaskets in the engine bay because the broke or became brittle. Anything that is rubber on any car will eventually fail at some point because of aging no matter how well you maintain the car.
My 1997 Honda Del Sol Si manual transmission is very reliable. It has 220,000 miles and runs great. After 26 years I had to rebuild my air conditioning system. I live in Florida. The car believe it or not still has some major parts. So I will match any car against my car for reliability.
My 1990 tbar was a rot box, but my current 1998 rev 5 is much more resistant to rust. Must have been given attention by Toyota over the revisions. Sharp handling for rev 1, but much more dead, and more boring on rev 5. I have other more exotic classics, but mr2 is my favourite. Beautiful.
Yeah rust can go a bit crazy on the mr2. My 1992 has an anti rust treatment that helped very well the past few years. Right now rust is coming back a bit so I am getting some paint corrections and repairs and will give another anti rust treatment for the bottom of the car.
I just got my 1991 T-top with the back lights swapped to the later revision ones. I found out that my dynamic driving style is a perfect prevention for snap overstear. The only issue i have is that the second gear doesn't go in very smoothly. Maybe you could mention that issue, i have heared that it is pretty common. Anyway i'm in love with the car and i will do whatever is nessecary to keep it running
I wish you a lot of fun with your MR2. Personally I am not familiar with the gearbox issue, but in general it might be a sign of wear on the gearbox. Make sure to keep an eye on the problem and when it gets worse you might want to look into a repair or replacement of the gearbox.
I know you own the car and I'm only searching for one, but you are wrong about snap oversteer, taking your foot off the gas or braking through a turn initiates LIFT oversteer. It's people over correcting for that that leads to snap oversteer.
A lot of these problems do get solved with the "newer" models 95 seems to be the one people go for, Including myself, I am eying one atm. I want this car to be a part of my life and I want to take care of it as much as I can. I can rust proof it to solve that issue due to my area having snow occasionally
I owned a '93 MR2 t-top for 23 years. I appreciate the time you took to create this video. No offence, but I urge those looking for an MR2 to do additional research in other places, especially MR2 forums. Even Bring a Trailer is worth a look. FYI, the suspension was considerably changed in '93 making it far friendlier. You make a point about them being "hard to work on" and then get into engine swaps? They aren't simple. And as far as ALL old sports cars being unreliable, one word: Miata. ;) (I've also owned my '03 Miata since new.)
Well I'm not a big mr2 sw11 guy but my friends that I grew up with are .. I do have an 85 mr2 just to have.... They both have turbo models but one has the gen 3 jdm motor heavily modified... Besides the snap oversteering issue I noticed blowing piston rings is another issue in the 3sgte and sound terrible engines... It sounds like the old model t ..... I got the 4age in my 85 even though it's not as powerful I like it better...I'm more of a supra guy and have lot of fun in with the platform...
Hey great video. I have found a 1991 MR2 T-Top with the Typ 5S-FE engine 16valve (130ps). It was sitting in a dry shed for 10 years and was not moved/started. The owner said there was no contact to water nor direkt sunlight. What are your thoughts about it?
@@dasun4239 Depends on the price, a car that has not started for 10 years will have some work. But if the price is right and there are no noticeable rust issues (yes MR2s even rust in dry sheds) it could defenitely be a great start for a cool build or weekend driver.
I've bought some things from MR2Ben but often I've found it cheaper to buy new OEM parts from Japan and ship them over. I typically use amayama for a lot of parts. GT4PLAY is another great option for the UK but if you find the part number many parts are shared with other cars so you can avoid the MR2 tax.
I've owned my '94 JDM GT-S Turbo Rev 3 for 16 years and have driven it in typhoons in Japan on Route 11 in Aichi prefecture outside Toyota City which is an awesome, snakey, thrilling road. Sometimes the rain was so hard it was like being under a waterfall lol...never had a single drop enter the cabin from the Targa roof panels. 3SGT-E Rev 3 with the ceramic shaft turbo CT20b is an amazing engine. I enjoy it, a lot ;) Glad to see you have a turbo!
Mine ate up tires but then again I drove her like a race car, but mine was reliable everyday, to combat rust buy since bars from a boat shop, the oversteer can be controlled keep the shifted weight of the car in the rear side by maintaining throttle so taking turns is planned different, braking in a high performance maneuver turn is a big mistake, you can find proven intakes from reputable companies, But wow a v6 in a mr2 omfg!!!
Really big point for point 2, Snap Oversteer, is simply knowing or reading any of Steve Hoelscher aka "XHEAD" old discussion about it which should still be around in spades if you look within the MR2 Community. So far as SW20 also observing that 91-92 has more inherent issues that were corrected with 93-95 is also important but similar rules apply. Learning to drive around oversteer like you said takes precedent, even if that just means learning how to avoid and counter it in worst case, but big thing with his recommendations was it didn't just make winning cars but killed the "snap" in the snap oversteer. Crux of it could be done without pickup point modification by simply lowering the rear of the car, with increase rear tire diameter to level it optionally, reason being the "roll center" is simply a bit too high in the rear, in any car (for instance is a problem even in very different cars like 80-90s ford mustangs) will cause snap oversteer but especially in 93-95 models really easy to fix by simply lowering 1 inch/2.4cm approximately, where with others in 1st and 2nd generation (91-92) pickup point modification was more warranted. He also recommended more even front to rear spring rates, often in race configuration with front still being stiffer. Setup properly these cars DO NOT understeer and still retain the wanted handling aspects out of the MR platform, rode in a few back in the day and if anything they naturally (trail brake) drift a bit if wanted or desire beautifully and desirably while putting in amazing lap times. These were the cars that took back various stock tire class titles at national level Autocross, created a resurgance in MR2s being extremely competitive in North America and it was largely on the back of Steve's work into the matter, as a old X1/9 driver. Another thing maybe more from NA community is 2GR for street swaps, which wasn't mentioned here, obviously K20 is amazing but they've nailed that and great option for price, sound, performance here, apparently weighs less then a stock turbo with lower CG, additional 80-100hp stock, and not sure but at least here has good kits to very easily slot in. If said kits ship overseas for not too money may be a good option as 2GR is a very easy engine to source, or if one is crafty and or wishes to retain toyota engine in a toyota. For me the first generation especially, followed by second generation has the most street appeal, but my head keeps steering me towards the fact the 3rd generation is just all the good without all the grief, but hope second and first generation community continues to thrive and keep these cars going. Very nice video covering all aspects.
Thanks for your comment! Lots of good points. I am defenately going to look into the suspension settings, I have got some new wheels in the garage and in the furure I am probably combining them with coilovers on my MR2. So this info will really help!
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari Don't take my words for it just hope if it become of interest enough you go on a deep dive with the hints i gave. A lot of good info with way more details then i could speak directly for, unless im mistaken should still be around on the net.
to be honest,with all the swaps going on,its starting to become more rare to see a 3sgte in a mr2 then anything else,everybody does K and 2gr swaps,gives me another reason to still go with a 3sgte,plus i dont need 400hp out of it
Dutch Fake Ferrari, What size tires do you have on your yellow MR2? I live in the USA and I own an original and completely stock 1993 MR2 turbo with no rust 🙂. I can only find racing tires in the original size and I need street tires.
@@flyntmyrick6291 My tire specs are the following: 205/55R15 88V (Rear) 195/55R15 85V (Front). Good luck with looking for tires! Not a lot of cars drive around with 15 inches that are as wide as the rims from the MR2, so finding a fitting set of tires was quite a difficult task for me.
I own a 1998 Mr2 Sw20 GTs Tin Top. with 12 years of reliability. Don't ever drive one of these in the snow or ice. You are going nowhere and drive very carefully in the wet. Did spend a few grand on bringing up to spec but that would be expected anyway.
Snap oversteer is BULLSHIT. I've owned multiple MR2's and they are no porblem to drive hard. You just have get used to it not being a front engine / rear drive. The balance is different.
You just countered your own argument lol snap oversteer is not bullshit… it’s an obvious issue that even Toyota knew was there and went on to fix it in the later years
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari I like T-tops generally because they are cool, but I do want the full smooth roof for hopefully motorsport applications once I go to college
@@lohostege You can use the T-tops for that as well, but the car is a bit heavier then tin tops. When you get into high horse power numbers you want to get some chassis reinforcements and it will work as well.
Ok I don't agree about cooling comment. The MR2 cooling system is actually really good as far as radiator/coolant being that it uses a lot of coolant from factory. Factory intercoolers on turbocharged cars always undersized on JDM cars
1. MR2 snap oversteer has been grossly over-exaggerated. Majority of the snap oversteer footage you see are deliberately driven to cause one for content, sensationalism, and attention. It is not a glaring issue as the media make it out to be. It's a non-issue as long as you don't drive like a complete maniac and know how to handle a car in general. If you didn't die driving a Mustang or an S2000, you'll be fine with an MR2. 2. Old car reliability and issues are same as any other old car. MR2 is not that terribly unique that you have to look for something special. 3. T-top leaks are hit or miss. Blanket statement that they all leak are false. I have a 91 that does not leak even after power wash. 4. Conditions of these cars vary tremendously. Also, the regionality is a huge factor. Therefore, we can never rank the value solely based on body type. Summary: Helps if you know how to work on cars yourself (simple repairs, maintenance, diagnosis skills). Get a decent set of tires, and you'll be fine. Again, MR2s are not that special or unique in how they are made. Use the common sense you'd use on any other car.
Don't get this car if you're a novice driver or it's suicide and that snap oversteer is fine for Pro Racing drivers and also none power steering is the better than the power assisted update also Abs if you want to achieve the perfect speed before feeling the grip before an entry into a corner for instance take the fuse out to cancel ABS and you will have a better feel of the car
@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari Very cool! I'll check it out. BTW, The rarest version here in the U.S. are the 93 hard tops. With only 11 turbos and an estimated 24 NAs brought here.
STOP! Replacing the seals is a once in 15 year task that costs the same as a set of tyres. it's not a deal breaker so please stop touting this as huge issue. The issue is worse now because these cars were cheap for years and the tight owners didn't bother to buy what the car needed. If it leaks (most of them do), buy the seals and move on. don't overlook sagging door hinges, window adjustment and missing roof drains.. or whatever, keep spreading nonsense.
Hi mike, thanks for your comment! The point I was making is not about not choosing to buy an MR2 because of the leaking T-tops. It is about the fact that most of these cars leak. I am recommending not to replace the seals because this did not fix the issue for my car and a lot of other MR2 owners I have contact with. There are a lot of different ways to reduce leaking T-Tops that are more cost effective so I suggest that new MR2 owners look into those options first before spending €1.500 for new seals. When all of these other methods don't work, replacing the seals can become something worth looking into.
broertje kocht hem nieuw in 91, dealer zij rij er mee zo hard als je wil, je krijgt hem toch nooit kapot was wel een lastige auto, brak zo uit als je ff te veel gas gaf . Momenteel heb ikzelf een mx 5 nd rf 2 l een veel betere auto, zo voorspelbaar
@@robvanderpeijl1326 Ja de onvoorspelbaarheid kan inderdaad een ding zijn. Helemaal met de 91 want die kan nog een rev1 model zijn. Hoe bevalt de de nd? Heb zelf onlangs de kans gehad om een na en nb te rijden. De NA vindt ik verrassend leuk.
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari Dit is mijn tweede nd, had eerst een 1,5 en nu de 2l rf uitvoering Beide auto’s zijn na wat kleine aanpassingen aan het onderstel Bilstein pakket, zo makkelijk op en over de grens te rijden En ook nog redelijk comfortabel en Lux De na rijd top maar erg gedateerd lijkt mij
@@robvanderpeijl1326 NA is geweldig in rijervaring, maar idd gedateerd gezien je van het geld wat je betaald tegenwoordig voor een goede NA, je al een NC en bijna een ND kan halen.
V6je in je MR2 is nog best te doen, de auto moet alleen omgekeurd worden. Je auto moet aan de APK regels van het bouwjaar voldoen. Uit mijn hoofd zijn emissie regels van voor 1994 erg losjes dus kom je makkelijk weg met een V6.
@@hectorae86 Kijk netjes! Zoals het hoort! Mijne staat nu ook lekker binnen, vindt de Nederlandse winters toch net iets te onbetrouwbaar om in te schatten of de emmer nou buiten kan blijven of niet.
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Your so wrong about the t top MR2s being worth less!!! The most valuable is the hard top. I think all us MR2 fans know that! Next in line is the T top, And least valuable is the sunroof. I have been buying MR2s for 28 years. And this has been my experience. I buy atleast 2 to 3 MR2s a year. The sunroof MR2s always sell for less.
Then we might be dealing with a regional issue here. I assume you are from the USA. In Europe we did not get the sunroof. T-tops here are like 90% of the MR2’s. Not very smart from me to not specify the market I am in.
Thanks for the comment btw, I am pinning it so people from other markets are informed.
Hardtop MR2's just don't look right. Had a '91 (w/t-tops) that I drove for eleven years. Guess maybe that's why...
Mike do you have an MR2 you would like to sell? I would be interested in buying one as I've been looking.
@@Bl00dwerK I totaled my hardtop last year and was super bummed. Picked up my second t-top this year and it's okay. I just wanted to avoid the sunroof, but retrospectively perhaps I should have gone for a sunroof model since it would be easier to convert than a t-top, but I've always hated sunroofs and thought they were a great place to rust.
Lucky me, mines a hardtop.
Some advice for those looking to own an SW20 for the first time.
Don't worry too much about which MR2 you get as all 6 revisions are great cars and pretty much the same besides engine, brakes and suspension which can be upgraded no problem if desired.
MR2's only rust up really bad if they are not cleaned very often so as long as they are washed and garaged then you won't have to deal with rust for a long time.
Parts is mainly an issue depending on where you live, certain toyota dealerships sell them cheaper than others so shop around. Most frustrating part to replace will be the front bumper as they are discontinued and impossible to repair.
These cars are still able to be daily driven, easy to service and economical.
With regards to snap oversteer it will not be a problem you encounter if you drive sensibly. There is no need to throw 1000's on fancy suspension to eliminate it either, a simple staggered wheel set up is all you need to tame it.
Lastly don't buy cheap tyres. A good set of middle priced tyres at least is not only going to make spirited driving more fun but also safer.
For the tires, what tires would you recommend for the stock non turbo set up, which have the 14 inch Rims
@@kzukiodenthechad7205 wow I'm amazed yours still has the original wheels, that's pretty rare. When i bought mine used it was rolling on 16 inch aftermarket alloys.
It ultimately depends on how you drive it, if you're not flinging it into corners at speed then any tire is acceptable. If you are hitting the corners hard then definitely get some tyres from kumho or continental.
@@kzukiodenthechad7205 The original width in 14" is getting extremely hard to find. Even when you do, the choices will be very limited.
If you upgrade to larger wheels, you'll have much easier time shopping for tires at wider price range.
I put on 17s on mine. But, you need to lower the car if you go from stock 14" to 17". Otherwise, the MR2 will look like an offroader. I lowered mine with coilovers while I was at it.
Even going to 16s will give you a lot more choice in tires than 14s. Not sure if you need to lower the car going to 16 (I'm guessing you would).
If you're dead on keeping the oem wheel, you'll have hard time finding tires. You may not be able to retain the original stagger...
@@jamescrosby3431 yea before I bought the one I currently have I looked at one that was on a set of Avid’s however that guy did still have the original set of rims, he sold that car out from under me though… but though it was grimey, can’t fully bash him for it, cause he did make up for it by sending me the link for the one I have now that was just put up for sale in my state at the time
Edit - Just checked both brands of tires you recommended, Both Kumho and Continental have the Select The Make and Model Search Bar, but doesn’t carry the 195/60 R14 Front / 205/60 R14 Rear in either inventory 😕
@@kzukiodenthechad7205 the values of these cars is starting to rise now because people realise what these cars are capable of and all the other jdm cars are priced out. You've done good to get in when you did, these cars are one of a kind 👍
I'm hearing about all these "issues" but I'm looking at the car like "yeah but shes worth it" LOL
Haha, that is great to hear. That means you are the right person for an MR2!
All is at the start of your ownership : if you can put a bit of money in good tires, a good engine clean up and if you know mechanics or have a friend who knows it, GO !
You won't be disappointed with an MR2.
It is a really good mind cleaner and a nice car to learn from.
I have mine since 2022 and damn, you can do so much on it without killing the 90' vibe of the car.
There is a lot of website or fb groups where they 3d print pieces like originals...
edit : I also upgraded a lot of my driving skills since :p
I can fix her 😢
Having owned about 30 old cars, BUY THE MOST PERFECT one you can find.
Really like your first point. I don't like how some people think owning an old school sports car is all sunshine and rainbows, never do the research (before owning the car and/or when owning it), then talk trash about the car because "it's unreliable".
What helped me the most with leaking t-top was unclogging the water channels meant to take water away from the seal. I used a long piece of wire and just went back and forth in there. Another thing is that we have to keep in mind is that it's old rubber. It's dry, hard and it has small cracks in it. Now, there is a way to somewhat mitigate this, and that is to apply glycerin. The rubber absorbs it, swells up closing the cracks and improving the seal against the window, and it gets softer and kinda greasy.
@@jakubmuron9030 This is a good tip! I think I am going to try this out!
Having owned a technically almost stock MR2 coupe for a few years, some things are true and fun to watch. But the snap oversteer was never a problem. This is mainly a problem with turbo models and earlier revisions of the SW20.
Also in my eyes the reliability argument is not entirely true, at least for the 156hp n/a version. The car has a not so common lay-out, but the parts in itself are mostly not that complex or unique. I found it an easy car to maintain, however the rust was becoming an issue at certain point. Only costs can get relatively high as there is obviously more labour needed to do work in the engine bay.
Anyway, it has always been a great car, I loved that it had no power steering and that it was just simple. Driving was always a joy!
my turbo is up tuned to 17 psi and you can tell easily when boost is hitting, so if you're paying attention you can easily avoid it.
@@whiplash-wl8764wilhelm racing suspension geometry kit and good tires make my car just grip
Great video! Really sums it up and keeps expectations realistic. The SW20 is great, but it's only as reliable as any 30 year old toyota.
snap oversteer - just continue to look in the direction you want to go and turn your steering wheel in that direction - do not slam in the breaks or handbrake
Exactly! That’s a tactic that has saved me a lot of times as well!
3:42 that's half of snap steer, it is usually caused by lift off oversteer or just being incredibly aggressive with your inputs. It's not at all just some magic moment where your car decides to unalive you. But the second half that wasn't explained is the overcorrection the makes it "snap" the other way, this is usually a mistake made by people who are used to driving FR platforms. To anyone interested in getting an MR2, don't let snap steer discourage you, just getting a good set of tires and coilovers pretty much makes it a non issue unless you're going far too fast to begin with.
Also have of the situations he mentions in the video, I live in, and I plan to daily my '93 Turbo. And my main combatant in part availability is just learning how to fabricate, and not to mention the MR2 community is very welcoming and supportive (I recommend mr2oc for forums).
Yeah I also mentioned in the video that snap oversteer is always a drivers error, but it can definitely catch beginning drivers off-guard.
I am not trying to gate-keep MR2's, just trying to inform people that are not very known with the platform. A young driver in my area owned MR2s for TikTok cloud and ended up crashing three nice MR2s. My first MR2 almost financially ruined me because I ignored some very obvious red flags on the car. Well informed buyers will prevent these types of situations for themselves. You seem to be a well informed and experienced car enthusiast, so you can definitely keep this car running very well, however this is not the case for everyone including me a few years back.
The MR2 community is indeed an amazing community. I have met quite a lot of cool local MR2 owners here in the Netherlands who also have helped me out with a lot of things.
Thanks for your comment! And I wish you a lot of fun times with your MR2!
Excellent video.
@@jondpyle Thanks!
I have a 1991 MR2 2.2 non turbo. 476,000 miles. Cylinder head is off rebuilding the cooling system. Commuted 110 miles a day. Many parts are interchangeable with Celica, and Camry.
Yeah, definitely with the 2.2, I believe it also uses quite a bit of Camry parts. 2.0 is a bit harder but has some parts shared with the 2.0 Celica.
Any plans to turbo the 2.2? 👀
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari would love to. However I live in commiefornia.
@@brianmoore4778 That’s tough
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari can't even use the set of headers I bought 🥺
This is a really good video. I always see videos where people just say what we want to hear, but now that i bought my sw20 1 month ago, seeing this video makes me really happy because i can spot good problems and search for many other swaps. I bought my sw20 as a restoration project because he doesnt even run, i tried specially to look only for rust problems and missing parts. I didnt really care if the engine was good. Although i noticed that the seals were leaking water, i have to fix that but as you say, it will be a big problem.
But enough of problems. People dream for lamborghini and ferraris, my dream car was this toyota mr2 since i was 15 yrs old. Its everything a car guy could want for a decent price. Mid engine, pop up headlights, t-top, lightweight and toyota reliable. I think that this car was one of the best cars ever made because its a perfect combination between cheap and fun and it looks so fkin nice...
Thanks for the support on the video! Nice to see you are a happy MR2 owner. Hopefully the project will not have to much issues so you can start to enjoy her to the fullest soon.
Seals as in the T-Top Seals?
I have owned a 1992 T-bar since 2008. I have never had any issues with it except, with its age, "bumping" from the two glass roofs. This was easily fixed with asymetric locking rod replacements which cost less than 20 €. Do a YT search for leaking roof repairs to get the spare parts number. It's easy - my friendly repair shop fitted them within a day. Otherwise, this is the most reliable car I have ever owned and is a gas to drive - especially open. It still turns heads and is rare these days. Being mid-engined, it has excellent weight distribution and drives like on rails. Don't overdo it in the rain though - the fat rear tyres will teach you a lesson trying to take corners too sharply at speed. With winter tyres, I drove it to work through ice and snow - the weight on the rear axle is a big help. Unless you drive it like a maniac at top revs, overheating is not a problem. It is also not a gas guzzler and can be economical to drive normally despite its age. Mine is now a registered oldtimer (over 30 years old) with a fixed vintage car tax bracket. Its value has also shot up, overtaking its 1980s cousin. I thought I was mad buying a 2-seater back then, but I was proved wrong. One of the best things I ever did. Don't believe the sensationalist "shock/horror" crap you often see in revue videos. It's just click bait.
Love that first point. Having bought a gen 5 Celica (basically a FWD SW20 MR2), I've learnt that if you buy an old 90s car, you're probably going to want to replace everything that's a gasket or made of rubber :D
Yes, it is unfortunately a commitment you need to make
As far as what may need to be replaced when buying a 90s car, a lot has to do with the mileage and maintenance history. I sold my 60,000-mile '93 - it was all original, except for routine maintenance.
Even on a 10 years old BMW that i maintained very well with no mechanical failure, in the last year i had to change almost many rubber/plastic parts, sealings and gaskets in the engine bay because the broke or became brittle. Anything that is rubber on any car will eventually fail at some point because of aging no matter how well you maintain the car.
My 1997 Honda Del Sol Si manual transmission is very reliable. It has 220,000 miles and runs great. After 26 years I had to rebuild my air conditioning system. I live in Florida. The car believe it or not still has some major parts. So I will match any car against my car for reliability.
That's impressive! Off course you cheat a bit by living in a warm climate ;)
Thanks, Dutch, It looks astonishing, I'm still thinking about it.
My 1990 tbar was a rot box, but my current 1998 rev 5 is much more resistant to rust. Must have been given attention by Toyota over the revisions. Sharp handling for rev 1, but much more dead, and more boring on rev 5. I have other more exotic classics, but mr2 is my favourite. Beautiful.
Yeah rust can go a bit crazy on the mr2. My 1992 has an anti rust treatment that helped very well the past few years.
Right now rust is coming back a bit so I am getting some paint corrections and repairs and will give another anti rust treatment for the bottom of the car.
I just got my 1991 T-top with the back lights swapped to the later revision ones. I found out that my dynamic driving style is a perfect prevention for snap overstear. The only issue i have is that the second gear doesn't go in very smoothly. Maybe you could mention that issue, i have heared that it is pretty common. Anyway i'm in love with the car and i will do whatever is nessecary to keep it running
I wish you a lot of fun with your MR2. Personally I am not familiar with the gearbox issue, but in general it might be a sign of wear on the gearbox. Make sure to keep an eye on the problem and when it gets worse you might want to look into a repair or replacement of the gearbox.
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari it is not a dramatic problem, it is the synchro rings. You don't have to replace the gearbox and it is a fairly easy fix.
@@fleidhdlp1213 I am going to look into the issue, if I run into the problem I'll make sure to cover it on the channel.
How many miles does your 91 have on it
@@kzukiodenthechad7205 185000km
im watching this AFTER rn and you cant stop me
Menace to society
If you buy a sw20 mr2, just know its a restoration project if it wasnt kept in a garage and well maintained
I know you own the car and I'm only searching for one, but you are wrong about snap oversteer, taking your foot off the gas or braking through a turn initiates LIFT oversteer. It's people over correcting for that that leads to snap oversteer.
I paid 5.5k for my mr2 turbo with 130k miles , targa top . I think its a steal
Well done! That is a really good steal for a turbo. Have fun with your MR2!
That’s a crazy deal I paid 7.5k got a n/a most turbo mr2 now go for 13-20k+
@@Scumbagfred i'm picking mineup next week - turbo litteraly show room condition, 7k
@@Jakkk that’s a really good deal most of the ones I’ve seen so far are 15-20k for turbo ones but unfortunately I got into accident and crashed mine
@@Scumbagfred i'm in uk market is probs different to other countries
A lot of these problems do get solved with the "newer" models 95 seems to be the one people go for, Including myself, I am eying one atm. I want this car to be a part of my life and I want to take care of it as much as I can. I can rust proof it to solve that issue due to my area having snow occasionally
Thanks for your reply! I wish you good luck with the purchase of your own MR2!
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari thank you 😊
Hey, Perhaps a little late but how would you rust proof it?
We have a yellow 93 and we will hold this original, new color last year, fight against rost and many tech, rework, but it runs well and we love him❤
Good luck with the work! It will sometimes be hard but definitely worth it!
I owned a '93 MR2 t-top for 23 years.
I appreciate the time you took to create this video. No offence, but I urge those looking for an MR2 to do additional research in other places, especially MR2 forums. Even Bring a Trailer is worth a look.
FYI, the suspension was considerably changed in '93 making it far friendlier.
You make a point about them being "hard to work on" and then get into engine swaps? They aren't simple.
And as far as ALL old sports cars being unreliable, one word: Miata. ;) (I've also owned my '03 Miata since new.)
When comes to MR2s the most critical thing on top of everything else is Rust. second to a worn 3rd synchro lol .
Yes, unfortunately rust is a killer for a lot of JDM cars
Well I'm not a big mr2 sw11 guy but my friends that I grew up with are .. I do have an 85 mr2 just to have.... They both have turbo models but one has the gen 3 jdm motor heavily modified... Besides the snap oversteering issue I noticed blowing piston rings is another issue in the 3sgte and sound terrible engines... It sounds like the old model t ..... I got the 4age in my 85 even though it's not as powerful I like it better...I'm more of a supra guy and have lot of fun in with the platform...
Hey great video.
I have found a 1991 MR2 T-Top with the Typ 5S-FE engine 16valve (130ps). It was sitting in a dry shed for 10 years and was not moved/started. The owner said there was no contact to water nor direkt sunlight. What are your thoughts about it?
@@dasun4239 Depends on the price, a car that has not started for 10 years will have some work. But if the price is right and there are no noticeable rust issues (yes MR2s even rust in dry sheds) it could defenitely be a great start for a cool build or weekend driver.
@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari how the hell would they rust in a dry shed 😭 pls noo
@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari btw what are some sweet spots that definitely will rust?
@@dasun4239 Behind the side skirts will rust, wheel arches and the bottom in general and around the T-tops if the car has them.
We are very lucky when it come to getting parts in the UK
MR2Ben and MR2 midlands are brilliant part provides
Yeah UK has a pretty good market, I sometimes order from MR2Ben to ship to the Netherlands here.
I've bought some things from MR2Ben but often I've found it cheaper to buy new OEM parts from Japan and ship them over. I typically use amayama for a lot of parts. GT4PLAY is another great option for the UK but if you find the part number many parts are shared with other cars so you can avoid the MR2 tax.
My MR2 turbo with 110k miles has never leaked through the t-tops. I guess I am one of the few lucky ones.
Then you are indeed very lucky. Keep good care of your MR2!
I've owned my '94 JDM GT-S Turbo Rev 3 for 16 years and have driven it in typhoons in Japan on Route 11 in Aichi prefecture outside Toyota City which is an awesome, snakey, thrilling road.
Sometimes the rain was so hard it was like being under a waterfall lol...never had a single drop enter the cabin from the Targa roof panels.
3SGT-E Rev 3 with the ceramic shaft turbo CT20b
is an amazing engine. I enjoy it, a lot ;)
Glad to see you have a turbo!
Mine ate up tires but then again I drove her like a race car, but mine was reliable everyday, to combat rust buy since bars from a boat shop, the oversteer can be controlled keep the shifted weight of the car in the rear side by maintaining throttle so taking turns is planned different, braking in a high performance maneuver turn is a big mistake, you can find proven intakes from reputable companies,
But wow a v6 in a mr2 omfg!!!
Everyone needs a V6 MR2 in their life!
I dont regret many things in life but I do regret selling my 92 MR2 T-Top (dead engine) back in 2014 when I was moving cross country for only $2.5k
2.5k for an Mr2.. Those were the days!
The early ones did not really suffer from snap oversteer. They were simply tuned to Dan Gurneys professional driver settings. 😮
👀
the gauges Will only stop working when you run a k-series if you don't get the proper adapters
Oh, that is good news!
I’ve had a couple of these and they were such a pain to work on lol.
I can confirm that haha
They are, but its worth it, I love mine.
Really big point for point 2, Snap Oversteer, is simply knowing or reading any of Steve Hoelscher aka "XHEAD" old discussion about it which should still be around in spades if you look within the MR2 Community. So far as SW20 also observing that 91-92 has more inherent issues that were corrected with 93-95 is also important but similar rules apply. Learning to drive around oversteer like you said takes precedent, even if that just means learning how to avoid and counter it in worst case, but big thing with his recommendations was it didn't just make winning cars but killed the "snap" in the snap oversteer.
Crux of it could be done without pickup point modification by simply lowering the rear of the car, with increase rear tire diameter to level it optionally, reason being the "roll center" is simply a bit too high in the rear, in any car (for instance is a problem even in very different cars like 80-90s ford mustangs) will cause snap oversteer but especially in 93-95 models really easy to fix by simply lowering 1 inch/2.4cm approximately, where with others in 1st and 2nd generation (91-92) pickup point modification was more warranted. He also recommended more even front to rear spring rates, often in race configuration with front still being stiffer. Setup properly these cars DO NOT understeer and still retain the wanted handling aspects out of the MR platform, rode in a few back in the day and if anything they naturally (trail brake) drift a bit if wanted or desire beautifully and desirably while putting in amazing lap times. These were the cars that took back various stock tire class titles at national level Autocross, created a resurgance in MR2s being extremely competitive in North America and it was largely on the back of Steve's work into the matter, as a old X1/9 driver.
Another thing maybe more from NA community is 2GR for street swaps, which wasn't mentioned here, obviously K20 is amazing but they've nailed that and great option for price, sound, performance here, apparently weighs less then a stock turbo with lower CG, additional 80-100hp stock, and not sure but at least here has good kits to very easily slot in. If said kits ship overseas for not too money may be a good option as 2GR is a very easy engine to source, or if one is crafty and or wishes to retain toyota engine in a toyota.
For me the first generation especially, followed by second generation has the most street appeal, but my head keeps steering me towards the fact the 3rd generation is just all the good without all the grief, but hope second and first generation community continues to thrive and keep these cars going. Very nice video covering all aspects.
Thanks for your comment! Lots of good points. I am defenately going to look into the suspension settings, I have got some new wheels in the garage and in the furure I am probably combining them with coilovers on my MR2. So this info will really help!
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari Don't take my words for it just hope if it become of interest enough you go on a deep dive with the hints i gave. A lot of good info with way more details then i could speak directly for, unless im mistaken should still be around on the net.
This is 23 years to late, got mine September of 2000 still in the garage waiting for spring
Cool to see that someone has owned this car for such a long time! Keep taking good care of it!
Wow, snap oversteer comes at slow speeds too?
Yes, it can happen in wet conditions
Great vid anyways, very good tips
If you can find one (a good one) an MR2 Turbo or if you can afford the insurance a 3 litre Camry transplant
Camry transplant is the dream!
The mr2 spider literally made me spit coffee and fall out of my chair why has no one told me about them 😭
Oh wait false alarm they’re soft tops imma stick to the others
@@darraghevans7271 they are almost 400kg lighter than the sw20;. Maybe reconsider
Limited slip rear diff was standard beginning in '93. Lengthened trailing arms also helped address snap over steer.
Oh wow, never knew about the lsd coming in the 93, I thought it was a trd thing or something.
the lsd and inflated interior are probably my favorite things introduced in rev 2, the lsd alone makes it pretty surreal.
to be honest,with all the swaps going on,its starting to become more rare to see a 3sgte in a mr2 then anything else,everybody does K and 2gr swaps,gives me another reason to still go with a 3sgte,plus i dont need 400hp out of it
Staying stock can also be a really good choice. The 3gste itself is also a really good engine.
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari it is,doesnt sound as nice as a 2jz or something but its good for what it is
Don’t take much money to k swap. An you can get those gauges working.
Dutch Fake Ferrari, What size tires do you have on your yellow MR2? I live in the USA and I own an original and completely stock 1993 MR2 turbo with no rust 🙂. I can only find racing tires in the original size and I need street tires.
Do you have the 15 inch wheels?
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari Yes, I have the original 15 inch wheels on my MR2 turbo. The wheels on my 1993 look like the wheels on your yellow MR2.
@@flyntmyrick6291 My tire specs are the following: 205/55R15 88V (Rear) 195/55R15 85V (Front). Good luck with looking for tires! Not a lot of cars drive around with 15 inches that are as wide as the rims from the MR2, so finding a fitting set of tires was quite a difficult task for me.
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari Thank you for the information!
I own a 1998 Mr2 Sw20 GTs Tin Top. with 12 years of reliability. Don't ever drive one of these in the snow or ice. You are going nowhere and drive very carefully in the wet. Did spend a few grand on bringing up to spec but that would be expected anyway.
The 3sgte are realy reliable the only issue is the headgasket (especialy the second gen 3sgte)
Snap oversteer is BULLSHIT. I've owned multiple MR2's and they are no porblem to drive hard. You just have get used to it not being a front engine / rear drive. The balance is different.
You just countered your own argument lol snap oversteer is not bullshit… it’s an obvious issue that even Toyota knew was there and went on to fix it in the later years
Correction the least desirable spec is the 2.0 16v 3sfe from the uk
I have never heard of that one before, probably shows how undesirable it is 😂
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari hehe indeed 😂
Do a video on the lexus sc300
I still want one, but I can't get a convertible, but hopefully T-top is okay.
T-top is fine! I have one as well, just make sure that people are not charging too much money for it just because it is a T-top.
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari I like T-tops generally because they are cool, but I do want the full smooth roof for hopefully motorsport applications once I go to college
@@lohostege You can use the T-tops for that as well, but the car is a bit heavier then tin tops. When you get into high horse power numbers you want to get some chassis reinforcements and it will work as well.
you dont need geometry kit if you don't lower the car!
Ok I don't agree about cooling comment. The MR2 cooling system is actually really good as far as radiator/coolant being that it uses a lot of coolant from factory.
Factory intercoolers on turbocharged cars always undersized on JDM cars
1. MR2 snap oversteer has been grossly over-exaggerated. Majority of the snap oversteer footage you see are deliberately driven to cause one for content, sensationalism, and attention. It is not a glaring issue as the media make it out to be. It's a non-issue as long as you don't drive like a complete maniac and know how to handle a car in general. If you didn't die driving a Mustang or an S2000, you'll be fine with an MR2.
2. Old car reliability and issues are same as any other old car. MR2 is not that terribly unique that you have to look for something special.
3. T-top leaks are hit or miss. Blanket statement that they all leak are false. I have a 91 that does not leak even after power wash.
4. Conditions of these cars vary tremendously. Also, the regionality is a huge factor. Therefore, we can never rank the value solely based on body type.
Summary: Helps if you know how to work on cars yourself (simple repairs, maintenance, diagnosis skills). Get a decent set of tires, and you'll be fine.
Again, MR2s are not that special or unique in how they are made. Use the common sense you'd use on any other car.
Don't get this car if you're a novice driver or it's suicide and that snap oversteer is fine for Pro Racing drivers and also none power steering is the better than the power assisted update also Abs if you want to achieve the perfect speed before feeling the grip before an entry into a corner for instance take the fuse out to cancel ABS and you will have a better feel of the car
Who knows about the Red Top beams and can someone tell me about it? A buddy of my got 2 from Japan 1999 and a 2000....... any one who answers thanks
It was a old girl car in Japan.but it fast.
oh ik wist niet dat jij yt vids maakte
Tegenwoordig wel haha. Hoe gaat het met jouw MR2?
Hold up the sun roof goes for lot of money
Anyone know about the rear lights on the yellow car towards the end? Looks like Kouki lights with zenik garnish! WTF? European or something?
That is a custom job on my own car. I made a tutorial on how to do it on this channel.
@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari Very cool! I'll check it out.
BTW, The rarest version here in the U.S. are the 93 hard tops. With only 11 turbos and an estimated 24 NAs brought here.
Drinking game take a drink every time he says car in the video and try not to be shit-faced by the end
Let’s go!
Remember: dont oversteer into a family of 4
Best MR2 advice
STOP! Replacing the seals is a once in 15 year task that costs the same as a set of tyres. it's not a deal breaker so please stop touting this as huge issue.
The issue is worse now because these cars were cheap for years and the tight owners didn't bother to buy what the car needed.
If it leaks (most of them do), buy the seals and move on.
don't overlook sagging door hinges, window adjustment and missing roof drains.. or whatever, keep spreading nonsense.
Hi mike, thanks for your comment!
The point I was making is not about not choosing to buy an MR2 because of the leaking T-tops. It is about the fact that most of these cars leak.
I am recommending not to replace the seals because this did not fix the issue for my car and a lot of other MR2 owners I have contact with.
There are a lot of different ways to reduce leaking T-Tops that are more cost effective so I suggest that new MR2 owners look into those options first before spending €1.500 for new seals.
When all of these other methods don't work, replacing the seals can become something worth looking into.
broertje kocht hem nieuw in 91, dealer zij rij er mee zo hard als je wil, je krijgt hem toch nooit kapot was wel een lastige auto, brak zo uit
als je ff te veel gas gaf . Momenteel heb ikzelf een mx 5 nd rf 2 l een veel betere auto, zo voorspelbaar
@@robvanderpeijl1326 Ja de onvoorspelbaarheid kan inderdaad een ding zijn. Helemaal met de 91 want die kan nog een rev1 model zijn. Hoe bevalt de de nd? Heb zelf onlangs de kans gehad om een na en nb te rijden. De NA vindt ik verrassend leuk.
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari
Dit is mijn tweede nd, had eerst een 1,5 en nu de 2l rf uitvoering
Beide auto’s zijn na wat kleine aanpassingen aan het onderstel
Bilstein pakket, zo makkelijk op en over de grens te rijden
En ook nog redelijk comfortabel en Lux
De na rijd top maar erg gedateerd lijkt mij
@@robvanderpeijl1326 NA is geweldig in rijervaring, maar idd gedateerd gezien je van het geld wat je betaald tegenwoordig voor een goede NA, je al een NC en bijna een ND kan halen.
In Nederland kun je niet zomaar ff een Fee sicks in je auto gooien, RDW doet vrij moeilijk hiero.
En je Engels is echt moeilijk om naar te luisteren.
V6je in je MR2 is nog best te doen, de auto moet alleen omgekeurd worden. Je auto moet aan de APK regels van het bouwjaar voldoen. Uit mijn hoofd zijn emissie regels van voor 1994 erg losjes dus kom je makkelijk weg met een V6.
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari mijne is van 91, maar die staat al een tijdje droog in de stal :P
@@hectorae86 Kijk netjes! Zoals het hoort! Mijne staat nu ook lekker binnen, vindt de Nederlandse winters toch net iets te onbetrouwbaar om in te schatten of de emmer nou buiten kan blijven of niet.
Vermogen vermeerdering van 75% en meer of verandering van aantal cilinders moet altijd aangepast zijn op je kenteken bewijs
Whoever was controlling that drone outside IKEA was one of the worst operators I've ever seen. So trash.
Those things are garbage. Who is this seller? Walk away, let me deal with them.
And let you keep all the MR2s 🤔😏
@@Dutch_Fake_Ferrari I'll split em with you.
@@michaelbullock7747 Deal