Keep meaning to try this style. I use a 3/8 steel cable setup as a choker (2 ton min break) or a polyester climbing loop (roughly 1 ton strength when in a choker). Both grab better than a plain chain but the climbing chokers do get worn out quick. I also use a winch not a tractor or truck tug. This version does look pretty much perfect if executed right.
"Make no cut before it's time" I'm going to use that quote going forward. This grubber looks like it would work better than the one made this past weekend using the same pipe concept.
To trap the sapling where the pipe bites into it you have to force the sapling onto the pipe end. It seems hooking on the inside would not confine it. Try it and let me know!
That is nicely done. One thing I thought of doing is putting a small serrated edge on the end of the pipe. It doesnt have to be much of one, but I find it does really well on those slippery suckers like cedar or even thorned berry bushes. Just a thought.
Wish I had thought of that. Could just take an angle grinder and lightly touch the end. The cedar was so flimsy it offered no resistance to allow the chain to tighten. Thanks for watching
What did you use to lubricate your saw blade with before the cut? Does it help extend blade life? Them things are expensive! I made an early version and love it. Thx. Scott. Vass, NC
Scott, I had to watch the video to see what you were mentioning. It is called CRL Tube Wax Lubricant, purchased on Amazon. I think it helps extend the life but can’t prove it. Since cutting oil is similar probably need to apply the wax a few times while making the cut. Hope all is well in NC. I worked in Durham and found it beautiful!
The chain choke works most of the time with 2 wraps on 1” saplings, but grub 3 works every-time (except as shown with the run over cedar). The chain crushes but the pipe bites. Thanks
If you were to make it with the hole centered, you could use it with either the smooth end or serrated. On the smooth end, you could even weld a ring of round bar or something to make it less-marring for use on stuff you didn't want to tear up so badly
Seems good , But you have a tractor you could use a root rake . or cut and spray . to much time and fuel for one sapling at a time . Good but you must do better.
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill what about a choke cable , We use to use a choke cable for logs never slipped rare but if did wet bark and such , we would wrap twice or three . So I am thinking instead of a pipe. a smaller choke cable or maybe 2 or 3 connected to a chain so you can pull 2 or 3 at the same time . Its almost like the pipe but its the wire wrap that holds the tree . Just a thought from copper not cooper. I am an old logger I sub hope you don't mind a little criticism ?
@copperjacket00 none taken! I have done the chain multiwraps around multiple saplings at once too. The grub pipe is another tool that is good for getting small saplings. I did another version with just a slot in the pipe for the hook. Thanks for watching !
Keep meaning to try this style. I use a 3/8 steel cable setup as a choker (2 ton min break) or a polyester climbing loop (roughly 1 ton strength when in a choker). Both grab better than a plain chain but the climbing chokers do get worn out quick. I also use a winch not a tractor or truck tug. This version does look pretty much perfect if executed right.
It just keeps getting better & better. I was going to make a grubber 3.0, but now I plan on a 4.0
"Make no cut before it's time" I'm going to use that quote going forward.
This grubber looks like it would work better than the one made this past weekend using the same pipe concept.
Yes I used that quote alot in wood working! Thanks
Great video..just a thought would it work better on smaller things if you put the hook on the inside of the pipe?
To trap the sapling where the pipe bites into it you have to force the sapling onto the pipe end. It seems hooking on the inside would not confine it. Try it and let me know!
That is nicely done. One thing I thought of doing is putting a small serrated edge on the end of the pipe. It doesnt have to be much of one, but I find it does really well on those slippery suckers like cedar or even thorned berry bushes. Just a thought.
Wish I had thought of that. Could just take an angle grinder and lightly touch the end. The cedar was so flimsy it offered no resistance to allow the chain to tighten. Thanks for watching
I have a piece of square steel pipe do you think that would work the same as the round pipe?
Would there be any advantage to grinding teeth into the end of the pipe just so it would grab the sappling a little better?
Yes I think so but shallow or depth of serrations should be shallow so it will be less likely to cut thru. Thanks
Thumbs up!
That’s awesome!!!! 0 failure points!
seems to work as intended. i can see the need for this
What did you use to lubricate your saw blade with before the cut? Does it help extend blade life? Them things are expensive! I made an early version and love it. Thx. Scott. Vass, NC
Scott, I had to watch the video to see what you were mentioning. It is called
CRL Tube Wax Lubricant, purchased on Amazon. I think it helps extend the life but can’t prove it. Since cutting oil is similar probably need to apply the wax a few times while making the cut. Hope all is well in NC. I worked in Durham and found it beautiful!
I have a piece of square steel pipe. Do you think it would work the same as the round one ?
Yes that will work! Its the end that provides the bite
Thanks very much for that cheers Adam
Nice
What’s the advantage of this over taking a chain and wrapping it around the trunk of the tree a few times and then hooking the chain hook to itself.
The chain choke works most of the time with 2 wraps on 1” saplings, but grub 3 works every-time (except as shown with the run over cedar). The chain crushes but the pipe bites. Thanks
A chain might have just enough slack allowing the sappling to slip off. The grubber just keeps getting tighter as you pull.
I am going to make one with teeth on the end to stop slipping
Don’t make the serrations too deep or you stand the chance of cutting through. Thanks
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill exactly
If you were to make it with the hole centered, you could use it with either the smooth end or serrated. On the smooth end, you could even weld a ring of round bar or something to make it less-marring for use on stuff you didn't want to tear up so badly
What size is the pipe? 2" or 2 1/2"?
2 7/8 OD 2.44” ID. Diameter is dependent on your chain hook width.
Seems good , But you have a tractor you could use a root rake . or cut and spray . to much time and fuel for one sapling at a time . Good but you must do better.
Cooper I use an old backhoe alot but sometimes you have to reach out. Thanks
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill what about a choke cable , We use to use a choke cable for logs never slipped rare but if did wet bark and such , we would wrap twice or three . So I am thinking instead of a pipe. a smaller choke cable or maybe 2 or 3 connected to a chain so you can pull 2 or 3 at the same time . Its almost like the pipe but its the wire wrap that holds the tree . Just a thought from copper not cooper. I am an old logger I sub hope you don't mind a little criticism ?
@copperjacket00 none taken! I have done the chain multiwraps around multiple saplings at once too. The grub pipe is another tool that is good for getting small saplings. I did another version with just a slot in the pipe for the hook. Thanks for watching !
Meant to say another grubber with a hook hold similar to slot version but can reach into the briars with one hand hook ups.
Pretty sure I can make something much better
LOL, I totally agree! Especially if doesn’t have a microprocessor, a few bits of available memory, and an interrupt service routine!!!!!!!!
Useless dumas😂