finally a good beginners with out an air brush, almost every Technic requires an air brush but these video does not. it is nice to finally weather models
I won't lie, Ballcrusher, an airbrush does make life easier overall for initial painting and some kinds of weathering. But yeah, for normal everyday weathering I find non-airbrush techniques definitely work better. Thanks mate, Dave
I don't know why everyone's complaining about your mic. Sure, it wasn't like TV studio quality, but it was totally understandable and not at all irritating to listen to. Thanks for the vid!
@@DavesModelWorkshop The only time the mic got me was when you blew off the powdered pigment. I was wearing headphones at the time. Soft calm voice explaining the process and then a tornado went through. LoL! All joking aside, great video and tips. I would like to add that, although I believe you already know, you forgot to mention that when using the pigments, you need to do it over a matte surface. Pigments don't stick very well to a glossy finish. I'm not some expert who came in to critique your techniques. I just know about pigments. I still learned a lot from your video. I do weathering and rusting on Hot Wheels sized vehicles and am always looking for ways to make it look more realistic. I thank you for the tips. I especially liked the sponging technique for chipping. You have a new subscriber. Here's some examples of what I've done. facebook.com/jpatton/media_set?set=a.2333240265282&type=3 facebook.com/jpatton/media_set?set=a.1050276231983&type=3
Another tip that I just remembered. When painting anything black, mix a bit of earth brown with the black. Black by itself in scale is too harsh of a contrast. I learned that from Bob Letterman. I use Humbrol paints. The earth brown for Humbrol is #29.
Thanks Bucket, good tip. I'm not much of a fan of Humbrol any more, I just got sick of the little tins not sealing properly and drying out. That said, there is one I do still use and stock up on: #66, this is my go to for grey German uniforms! Dave
Great work! Love how you coordinated with panzermeister36 but put your own spin on things. Important techniques to know - well demonstrated with clear instructions. This should help give modellers (of any level) the confidence to tackle these finishes!
I have been weathering with pastels for about a year now, and I am hooked! The best weathering effects I have produced have been with pastels. No more dry brushing for me. Great video!
Thanks! Good info here, even for an aircraft builder like me. Just got back into building after 30 years. I discovered pin washes by accident when I was a kid, but didn’t know it was a technique until later. I used to be able to paint canopies by hand using a thicker wash to flow in between the raised areas. I can’t see well enough now to try that 😅
Greetings from South Louisiana, USA! Great videos Dave! I'm getting back into modelling after 30+ years away and your tutorials are a great help! Keep them coming!
Bill Starrett thanks so much for the feedback. Welcome back to the hobby. It’s changed a lot in thirty years, but you’re going to love it! Cheers, Dave
A tip about pastels: some brands are very low in pigment and heavy on fillers. There are brands like Schminke and Art Spectrum that have heavy pigmentation and work very well for modelling but they are quite expensive. I'm a professional artist in my day job and worked extensively with pastels at one time.
Hi Dave, great video, great techniques and what appeals to me is the cheap and chearful approach with a great end result. Just goes to prove you don't have to spend a shed load of money when you have things to hand, such as the mud effect. I find that with some shop bought items you get very little for your money. Although I have watched some of your videos before, a shout out to "panzermeister36" for adding the link to this video. Thumbs-up from me 👍🏻
Was excited to try the salt technique on my acrylic spray painted Stug and followed the instructions as per the video. Even after leaving the sea salt on for a full 24 hours before removing it, it sadly left no modulation whatsoever! Oh well never mind! Mud technique though was great.
Hi Dave, I use for creating pigments out of soft pastels the fine mesh of a tea stainer.. with little pressure you get a very fine dust from the pastels almost as fine as the AK or MIG products.
Good tips mate, I just learnt about chipping fluid for acrylic paints and I'm really excited to try that, also wet painting acrylics to give a runny rust effect....
Sherman tank with the mud looks really sharp , I think improvising with materials is not only cheaper but can create a better look than manufactured modelling products . Just hope the cat hasn’t been going in the garden. Great job!
The 1st example you showed using sea salt could have passed as a slushy snow covering parts of the tank where the heat from inside hadn't yet melted it right off!
Just getting into the rc world, I'm definitely impressed with the ease of detail painting. Both you and Panzer have really been instrumental in my future build. Thanks for taking the time to show us Newbies a few tricks to the Hobby. Keep it up.
I wonder if powdered makeup foundation might work well for both dust and mud? Seems like it would have the very fine consistency one would be going for
1 tip for you Dave. Pastels. Start the scalpel at the lower end of the pastel stick and pull backward slowly with mild pressure. What comes off will be finer and far less course.
Thanks for partnering with Evan and sharing this info. I just subbed to your channel after Evan sent me here. I'm just learning how to weather as I'm a very cherry rookie to model building. Panzermeister36 is actually my mentor and training me on how to weather. Great video and look forward to surfing through your archives and future videos.
I just found your channel. Thanks for taking time to share these techniques. I'm brand new to modeling and dioramas. And videos like this make my day!! Cheers!
Rather enjoy all your videos from scratch build, kits, weathering details. Getting back into model building after a 46 year run of working as a butcher in retail. Course started back in my youth of the 60’s model building mostly military vehicles/ soldiers. Summer month builds outdoors for fresh air and ventilation of the original testers glue before regulation of health concerns by the govt. or basic “ glue sniffing”. Lol Great tips, thanks again.
Excellent video for basic weathering. I loved it. I've been using pastels for pigments for many years. Great method. Of course I do have the store bought pigments too, but still like to revert back to my chalks.
Not really, I find that they both give me the wanted effects I'm looking for, but the aftermarket stuff you can use pigment setting solutions on to make them permanent. I don't think you can do that with the pastels.
@@DavesModelWorkshop I did my last scene in 2000! My oldest son who is now 15 had suggested doing Gundam or Gunpla and this past Thanksgiving I purchased my first kit and loved and then that got me going down the rabbit hole of the lore and the shows and movies.
I'm subscribed to both you, and Panzermeister36 so it was a bit odd to see two videos with similar subjects, and titles. Then I saw that you collaborated. Some great work from the both of you, really informative, and if followed right should bring out some great results, good to see two peoples different takes on the weathering process. Keep up the good work! Thanks
with the mud effect, you might want to use a tea strainer or sieve for the dirt id you're working on a smaller scale. great video with a lot of helpful tips. I'm gonna use the salt and mud on my t34. have a good day!
Great weathering tricks you've shown here. When I was much younger I built armor models mostly WWII. Most irritating aspect of armor modeling is how everything looks like it just rolled off the assembly line or off the showroom floor. Mud encrusted battle scars rust oil/fuel stains the grimier the better. Thanks too much!
Very good video that covers all the basic techniques. The sound on the video is not too bad but the lighting whilst carrying out the application of techniques is very poor, especially when looking at dark on dark. It is good that you provide stills to show the results.
I've found that if you use your thinner to premoisten the area that you're gonna put the pin wash, that you won't get the tide marks and it won't go where you don't want it.
Hi I have just come across your channel and I appreciate the non precious approach 😁 a nice change from some other channel's, good straight to the point tips that's what were all looking for to improve our hobby thanks and subscribed, just a quick note on the pastels use a really fine sand paper 800 grit and above and you get a much finer result takes some practice but its worth it
Dave just a thought on using dirt from your garden for mud. I bake my mine in the oven to kill microbes and germs. It has a unique smell it has to be said when its baking!
Dave's Model Workshop its not like the smell of bread baking thats for sure. Weirdly it just smells very earthy. I have two dogs who use my back garden as a loo so it definitely helps with germs.
Cool video mate. Just a thought though, with the pastels, instead of scraping them with a blade I use a sheet of sandpaper, from 100 to 600 grit, depending on the type of dust you want
Cool. That would actually be less messy than the sandpaper, you could just grind it over a jar and have your pastels collected underneath. I like it. Dave
Hi Dave, thanks for your channel...I learned a lot on armor weathering and actually starting to apply it on my build. However, i still have a lot of questions regarding the application of dull coat to seal the paint, and after applying the decals. What steps do you recommend for using laquer flat coat over acrylic paint - it might mess up the paint and decals. Thank you.
With each step of weathering, do you do it before or after varnish coats. I believe you do the salt before varnishing I think you do the oils after, but what about pigment stage / Mud stage??
Strictly speaking aluminium alloys do oxidise - usually in about 30 seconds if left bare. But the result is grey or if bad enough almost white,, not iron oxide. They also corrode wherever they contact steel and get wet because the alloy is sacrificial to steel in the same way zinc is. Electrolytic corrosion usually shows up as paint bubbles (as the paint loses its grip) then a hole. How do I know? I own a 1998 Land Rover Defender that among other things needs a new rear floor where the original alloy one has corroded away where it contacted the chassis rails.
Nice technique on the dust. Regarding the grain size on the pastels, try putting a few small chunks of the pastel color into an old spin style coffee grinder; that you don't use for coffee anymore of course. Spinning it for about 10 seconds will be enough to turn it into fine powder. It will cost a lot less than the store bought weathering powders.
Hi Dave, this video really helped, especially the pin wash, I bought a ready made one and when I tried to clean it up I was really hard. I bought some oils and followed how you done and found it a lot better and more control over it…. Just a question from a beginner Dave…. Would I have to seal at all the stages of different process to keep from losing it or is it a specific order and seal at the end. ( I did varnish after main coat ) thanks for great video 👍
Great video about making rust. I have just one problem with this. There are rarely rust on military equipment in use. There wouldnt be rust on that jerrycan. I could be used, worn out and muddy.
I've never heard of galkyd before, I assumed you had made a spelling mistake until I googled it, heh heh! I'll pick some up next time I'm at an art supply store - thanks for the tip. Dave
I'm new to the whole modeling and weathering, but I have a question, pls don't judge, what if u put maybe just one or two drop of water in the chalk to make it a bit more sticky to apply, does that work better and would it work?
Hey Dave thank your and Panzermeister36 for creating these how-to vids together. I am definitely now a fan of your (and his). The question I have is regarding the mud. I'm planning on using your dirt technique but was wondering if substituting the garden dirt with actual pigment will work also?
michelewinslow thanks for your comment, glad you find some value :) Yes, you could use pigment, it would give the mud a good colour so that you wouldn’t have to add paint I imagine, but it would be very expensive (remember, dirt is free!) and also I think you wouldn’t achieve the grainy texture that dirt gives. On balance, probably not worth it?
Thanks for the reply Dave. Think I will use both what you and Panzermeister recommend. BTW this is Michele's hubby. I didn't want you to think this was some lady trying to model armor lol.
In theory, yes, so long as your paint was nice and thin. But I think you will encounter difficulties with brush strokes dislodging the salt flakes, and they might then tend to bunch up. Test it on an unobtrusive section, or a separate paint mule test subject, but I think it’s going to be tricky to achieve...
Thanks - fellow Aussie here. At the end if section two you show the end result of the rust, but you did not demonstarte how to obtain those rusty streak effects. Was it done with pigment, oils or what?
Hey mate, thanks for asking. If you're talking about the streaks at the 8:00 mark, they were one using rust coloured pigments (without any clear topcoat to seal them). Cheers, Dave
There are different ways and purposes of using pastels. Not just to simulate dirt/dust. They come in a wide variety of colors and shades. I put some of it on the model and gently rub it in to to use as a filter to break up the monotony. You can either use colors similar to the camouflage or something wildly contrasting like white or even light blue on e.g. olive drab. To simulate light dirt i mix pastels with water and generously apply this pulp on the model. When it's dry (usually a matter of minutes) i just brush the excess off. This stuff doesn't stick as well as paint (but better than pastel powder alone) and by manipulating the direction of the brush you can form various streaks. Salt is quite popular with aircraft modellers to create paint chipping. Model is painted with metal colours. Salt is applied in desired places and the camouflage is sprayed on top of it. After removing salt you get the effect of chipped paint.
Hi Origami Chicken, all very true. I have actually done a previous standalone video on the salt technique, it's at ruclips.net/video/0r01GOvZ0e8/видео.html Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave. I've tried to do washes with oil paints and thinners but what happens is the pigments in the paint separate out giving the wash an ugly grainy effect. I've tried different brands of paint including very expensive fine pigment paint, and various types of thinners and the same thing always happens. Would you have any idea what might be happening? Thank you most kindly.
Hi, I had the same issue when I was doing my own wahses in the past. Then I switched th thinner to zipo fluid.. and what a difference.. sure, very nice results this way
I would only add the mud to the tracks and sprockets AFTER I had the tracks in place. Agreed, if you gloop that stuff on beforehand you'll have a tough time fitting the tracks. Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave, I’ve been a big fan of you for years...Could you please suggest me any website where I can buy such old wartime figures like the Vietnam jeep and the old truck with army men?
Dec. 2017---Thanks for the video. Getting back into modeling, but this time it's 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas. One is being called The Fountain which is a combination of using 2 different sized sour cream lids as my molds for the plaster of paris foundation/base, with the 2 tiered fountain parts made from a cut up plastic wine glass & sheet styrene. Used Krylon fine stone spray paint for the foundation/base which has given it realistic stone granite look. As to the fountain parts, spray painted first with a grey primer and then a flat black yesterday. Weathering the foundation is not going to be a problem, but have been wondering how to weather the all black fountain parts. Will use regular table salt for its uniform size to represent pigeon poop and probably use chalk to weather everything else, including several miniature praying angels & Mary who'll have rust streaks on them. Included in this diorama will be a tired looking woman sitting on the ledge of the fountains rim with her weapon, pack and dog besides her. Of course the fountain will be empty/filled with some debri and because of one of the fountain rims cracked while working on it, will have a small tree growing from that crack.
That sounds cool! It tells a great story - that's my main requirement of a diorama, does it tell a compelling tale? And yours certainly does. Please let me know how you get on mate - Dave
@@alaniano Okay. Some people do apply a clear coat over the main overall colour, before they start weathering (washes, etc). It protects the base coat. I've never bothered, as long as you are careful you shouldn't destroy the base coat, but I get why some people do. The second is a clear coat at the very end, to protect and seal in all the weathering you have done. Again, I don't tend to bother as it can tend to dull down some of the effects you have so carefully applied. But if you will be handling or moving your finished model much, or cleaning it regularly, it's a good way to protect it. Just don't apply a gloss over your carefully weathered tank!
Dave's Model Workshop hey Dave, the ones I used are apparently "Gallery" brand. I would classify them as 'regular' colored pencils, the type you'd get for your kids. The lead seemed kind of hard and dry.. I literally used a box cutter and scored the wood on either side to extract the lead, then ground down with sand paper.. Hope that helps :)
finally a good beginners with out an air brush, almost every Technic requires an air brush but these video does not.
it is nice to finally weather models
I won't lie, Ballcrusher, an airbrush does make life easier overall for initial painting and some kinds of weathering. But yeah, for normal everyday weathering I find non-airbrush techniques definitely work better. Thanks mate, Dave
I don't know why everyone's complaining about your mic. Sure, it wasn't like TV studio quality, but it was totally understandable and not at all irritating to listen to. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks, Bumbling Brit, I appreciate that :)
@@DavesModelWorkshop The only time the mic got me was when you blew off the powdered pigment. I was wearing headphones at the time. Soft calm voice explaining the process and then a tornado went through. LoL! All joking aside, great video and tips. I would like to add that, although I believe you already know, you forgot to mention that when using the pigments, you need to do it over a matte surface. Pigments don't stick very well to a glossy finish. I'm not some expert who came in to critique your techniques. I just know about pigments. I still learned a lot from your video. I do weathering and rusting on Hot Wheels sized vehicles and am always looking for ways to make it look more realistic. I thank you for the tips. I especially liked the sponging technique for chipping. You have a new subscriber. Here's some examples of what I've done.
facebook.com/jpatton/media_set?set=a.2333240265282&type=3
facebook.com/jpatton/media_set?set=a.1050276231983&type=3
"How to make mud effects": Slap some real mud.
I love it.
You are the Bob Ross of modelling! It is very relaxing to listen to your video's. And great tutorials too!
Heh heh, thanks Bartyron! That's a big compliment indeed! ;)
Another tip that I just remembered. When painting anything black, mix a bit of earth brown with the black. Black by itself in scale is too harsh of a contrast. I learned that from Bob Letterman. I use Humbrol paints. The earth brown for Humbrol is #29.
Thanks Bucket, good tip. I'm not much of a fan of Humbrol any more, I just got sick of the little tins not sealing properly and drying out. That said, there is one I do still use and stock up on: #66, this is my go to for grey German uniforms! Dave
OMG, Dave that is by far the VERY best tank model I have ever seen.!!!!!!!
Wow, Ricky, that is high praise indeed. Thank you!
Great work! Love how you coordinated with panzermeister36 but put your own spin on things. Important techniques to know - well demonstrated with clear instructions. This should help give modellers (of any level) the confidence to tackle these finishes!
I have been weathering with pastels for about a year now, and I am hooked! The best weathering effects I have produced have been with pastels. No more dry brushing for me. Great video!
Some really nice ideas here. I've watched the Panzermeister for a few years and look forward to more of your work. Cheers.
This is great stuff. Been doing this off and on for 20 years, but these videos are really getting me back in the game. Much thanks!
Thanks! Good info here, even for an aircraft builder like me. Just got back into building after 30 years. I discovered pin washes by accident when I was a kid, but didn’t know it was a technique until later. I used to be able to paint canopies by hand using a thicker wash to flow in between the raised areas. I can’t see well enough now to try that 😅
Panzermeister sent me here, will be sticking around, thanks for taking the time and the great video. daveuk
Hi Dave, thank you and welcome aboard. You can never have too many Daves in any given situation ;) Cheers, Dave
same here... cant believe I never stumbled in here before
Panzermeister
Really cool with the mud application. I shall give it a try.
Greetings from South Louisiana, USA! Great videos Dave! I'm getting back into modelling after 30+ years away and your tutorials are a great help! Keep them coming!
Bill Starrett thanks so much for the feedback. Welcome back to the hobby. It’s changed a lot in thirty years, but you’re going to love it! Cheers, Dave
Awesome. Loved the tips . Thank you. Great job. Clear and simple .
Thanks!
You are like the bob ross of weathering techniques. Great video!
Heh heh, thanks Michael! You just made me laugh out loud :)
A tip about pastels: some brands are very low in pigment and heavy on fillers. There are brands like Schminke and Art Spectrum that have heavy pigmentation and work very well for modelling but they are quite expensive. I'm a professional artist in my day job and worked extensively with pastels at one time.
Hi Dave, great video, great techniques and what appeals to me is the cheap and chearful approach with a great end result. Just goes to prove you don't have to spend a shed load of money when you have things to hand, such as the mud effect. I find that with some shop bought items you get very little for your money. Although I have watched some of your videos before, a shout out to "panzermeister36" for adding the link to this video. Thumbs-up from me 👍🏻
Genius techniques and so simple. Thanks so much.
Was excited to try the salt technique on my acrylic spray painted Stug and followed the instructions as per the video. Even after leaving the sea salt on for a full 24 hours before removing it, it sadly left no modulation whatsoever! Oh well never mind! Mud technique though was great.
Best weathering video in the world. Thank you.
Heh heh, thanks very much Jedi Train Spotter! Glad you found it useful. Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave, I use for creating pigments out of soft pastels the fine mesh of a tea stainer.. with little pressure you get a very fine dust from the pastels almost as fine as the AK or MIG products.
Dušan Bača that’s such a clever idea! I’m going to try that next time! Thank you.
I wanna try the salt technique for Hotwheels that is nice real rust to me... Thanks for sharing this video🥰
Hmm, yes, agreed, that could have terrible results! :)
Good tips mate, I just learnt about chipping fluid for acrylic paints and I'm really excited to try that, also wet painting acrylics to give a runny rust effect....
Sherman tank with the mud looks really sharp , I think improvising with materials is not only cheaper but can create a better look than manufactured modelling products . Just hope the cat hasn’t been going in the garden. Great job!
Thanks for taking the time to make these vids. I find them very easy to follow. Cheers.
The 1st example you showed using sea salt could have passed as a slushy snow covering parts of the tank where the heat from inside hadn't yet melted it right off!
Just getting into the rc world, I'm definitely impressed with the ease of detail painting. Both you and Panzer have really been instrumental in my future build. Thanks for taking the time to show us Newbies a few tricks to the Hobby. Keep it up.
I wonder if powdered makeup foundation might work well for both dust and mud? Seems like it would have the very fine consistency one would be going for
1 tip for you Dave. Pastels. Start the scalpel at the lower end of the pastel stick and pull backward slowly with mild pressure. What comes off will be finer and far less course.
Lots of great tips. Thank you.
David Anderson cheers!
Great video.i'm just starting out and found these tips very useful.and great presentation with calm clear instructions.
Thanks Nick. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Cheers, Dave
So professional and innovative... Thanks so much
Thanks for partnering with Evan and sharing this info. I just subbed to your channel after Evan sent me here. I'm just learning how to weather as I'm a very cherry rookie to model building. Panzermeister36 is actually my mentor and training me on how to weather. Great video and look forward to surfing through your archives and future videos.
Panzermeister36 is a pretty amazing guy to have as your mentor! Welcome aboard, and I hope you find lots of useful stuff here mate. Cheers, Dave
I just found your channel. Thanks for taking time to share these techniques. I'm brand new to modeling and dioramas. And videos like this make my day!! Cheers!
Hi TechnoHaunt, welcome aboard and thanks so much for your kind words. Enjoy the hobby, it's the best! Cheers, Dave
I used modelers cellulose for mud. Sticks well to plastic models.
Let dry and"paint" to desired color.
Is a great 👍🏻 Tecni
Excellent tips for a new beginner such as myself. Thank you and keep them coming! Subscribed!
Panzermeister sent me here!
Rather enjoy all your videos from scratch build, kits, weathering details. Getting back into model building after a 46 year run of working as a butcher in retail. Course started back in my youth of the 60’s model building mostly military vehicles/ soldiers. Summer month builds outdoors for fresh air and ventilation of the original testers glue before regulation of health concerns by the govt. or basic “ glue sniffing”. Lol
Great tips, thanks again.
Your videos help me alot. I'm finishing my first 1/35 tank, a T55. thank you.
A really good video on these techniques. In fact that is the best use of the salt technique that I've ever seen. Cheers.
Thanks Nitramyar!
Excellent video for basic weathering. I loved it. I've been using pastels for pigments for many years. Great method. Of course I do have the store bought pigments too, but still like to revert back to my chalks.
Thanks Tigertanktoo. Do you find much of a difference in how they apply compared to specialised model pigments? Cheers, Dave
Not really, I find that they both give me the wanted effects I'm looking for, but the aftermarket stuff you can use pigment setting solutions on to make them permanent. I don't think you can do that with the pastels.
Thank you so much! This has helped and inspired me to get back into modeling
Excellent! Welcome back to the hobby - how long were you away?
@@DavesModelWorkshop I did my last scene in 2000! My oldest son who is now 15 had suggested doing Gundam or Gunpla and this past Thanksgiving I purchased my first kit and loved and then that got me going down the rabbit hole of the lore and the shows and movies.
@@bchicks34 Excellent! There's a lot of cool stuff since 2000, but the basics remain the same. Enjoy!
Brilliant! Thank you.
Really cool, been watching lots of your videos so far, and they're amazing.Lots of helpful things to get back in the hobby.
Daniel Grammes - thanks very much! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Cheers, Dave
I'm subscribed to both you, and Panzermeister36 so it was a bit odd to see two videos with similar subjects, and titles. Then I saw that you collaborated.
Some great work from the both of you, really informative, and if followed right should bring out some great results, good to see two peoples different takes on the weathering process.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks
Hi Sir Rathalos, I can imagine that was a bit strange at first :D Thanks for the feedback mate, Dave
U don't do that duuu u need paint
Video is outstanding! Thanks for doing this. Top notch
WMM M thanks very much mate! Dave
you might try using 220 grip paper or even finer to make the dust. less random than chipping with a blade.
with the mud effect, you might want to use a tea strainer or sieve for the dirt id you're working on a smaller scale. great video with a lot of helpful tips. I'm gonna use the salt and mud on my t34. have a good day!
Great weathering tricks you've shown here. When I was much younger I built armor models mostly WWII. Most irritating aspect of armor modeling is how everything looks like it just rolled off the assembly line or off the showroom floor. Mud encrusted battle scars rust oil/fuel stains the grimier the better. Thanks too much!
Howard Fortyfive - thanks mate! Agreed, there is nothing more dull than a factory fresh tank. Cheers, Dave
Great as usual Dave
I like the home made mud!! I’ll definitely try it! 😜
Excelente tutorial thanks 🙏 for sharing
I really liked your video. I will try your Technics.
Thanks Rick. Do please let me know how they work out for you, I'd love to hear. Cheers, Dave
Really great video very helpful thank you.
Very good video that covers all the basic techniques. The sound on the video is not too bad but the lighting whilst carrying out the application of techniques is very poor, especially when looking at dark on dark.
It is good that you provide stills to show the results.
Thanks Andrew for the feedback. I'm looking at my setup at the moment to see how I can improve it. Thanks again, Dave
Thank you for your help.
mrcarlo1966 hope you found it useful.
I've found that if you use your thinner to premoisten the area that you're gonna put the pin wash, that you won't get the tide marks and it won't go where you don't want it.
Solid advice - thanks BucketisMyGod :) Good call. Cheers, Dave
Hi I have just come across your channel and I appreciate the non precious approach 😁 a nice change from some other channel's, good straight to the point tips that's what were all looking for to improve our hobby thanks and subscribed, just a quick note on the pastels use a really fine sand paper 800 grit and above and you get a much finer result takes some practice but its worth it
Great video, but you had me at bees knees lol I love that saying!!!! Cheers mate good job and happy modeling to you.
Dave just a thought on using dirt from your garden for mud. I bake my mine in the oven to kill microbes and germs. It has a unique smell it has to be said when its baking!
Heh heh, I can't even begin to imagine what that smells like. How does everyone else in your home react? :D
Dave's Model Workshop its not like the smell of bread baking thats for sure. Weirdly it just smells very earthy. I have two dogs who use my back garden as a loo so it definitely helps with germs.
Heh heh, maybe if I knew there was a possibility of dog poo in mine I'd be more cautious too!
Thanks for the great vid, I learned a lot. Greetings from Belgium, Sven.
Hi Sven, thanks very much, I'm glad it was of value to you. All the best from Australia, Dave
Thanx for sharing...I like your channel..greets from Austria..Gary
Thanks Gary. All the best mate, from the other side of the planet, Dave
Cool video mate. Just a thought though, with the pastels, instead of scraping them with a blade I use a sheet of sandpaper, from 100 to 600 grit, depending on the type of dust you want
That's a good idea, Peter. I like it. You could get very, very fine dust - I'm going to try that next time. Thanks! Dave
I use metal mesh from an old tea strainer for that. It grinds pastels pretty well too.
Cool. That would actually be less messy than the sandpaper, you could just grind it over a jar and have your pastels collected underneath. I like it. Dave
Hi Dave, thanks for your channel...I learned a lot on armor weathering and actually starting to apply it on my build. However, i still have a lot of questions regarding the application of dull coat to seal the paint, and after applying the decals. What steps do you recommend for using laquer flat coat over acrylic paint - it might mess up the paint and decals. Thank you.
Great Tutorial mate, and great idea to make a co op project with the Panzermeister. Greetings from Germany liked and shared here
Thanks De Lan. All the very best from Australia, Dave
Making mud tutorial is very helpful. Can I use this procedure to lay the mud down on a diorama?
Thank you for your tips. Btw, I am using Mr. Hobby Mr. Weathering Color series and I am wondering whether sponge chipped technique can apply?
To be honest, I've never used those paints before, so I don't know for certain, but I can't think why they wouldn't work for the chipping technique?
Dam those beerenberg mini jam jars come in handy!! hehehe ;)
I know, right??? :D Dave
Dave, can you apply the rust sponge look over the dirt technique for a corroded rust look? Thanks
Cheers Dave once again!
Great video!!!
I’d love to see how you would weather an n scale freight car.
Snow on a desert panzer 6, but when does it really snow in the desert? Not often really.
Great vid, very helpful cheers
Glad you liked it, Duck Man.
With each step of weathering, do you do it before or after varnish coats.
I believe you do the salt before varnishing
I think you do the oils after,
but what about pigment stage / Mud stage??
Yeah, only one mistake...the m113 is made by alluminium so it doesn't oxidate
Strictly speaking aluminium alloys do oxidise - usually in about 30 seconds if left bare. But the result is grey or if bad enough almost white,, not iron oxide.
They also corrode wherever they contact steel and get wet because the alloy is sacrificial to steel in the same way zinc is. Electrolytic corrosion usually shows up as paint bubbles (as the paint loses its grip) then a hole. How do I know? I own a 1998 Land Rover Defender that among other things needs a new rear floor where the original alloy one has corroded away where it contacted the chassis rails.
Nice technique on the dust. Regarding the grain size on the pastels, try putting a few small chunks of the pastel color into an old spin style coffee grinder; that you don't use for coffee anymore of course. Spinning it for about 10 seconds will be enough to turn it into fine powder. It will cost a lot less than the store bought weathering powders.
Hi Dave, this video really helped, especially the pin wash, I bought a ready made one and when I tried to clean it up I was really hard. I bought some oils and followed how you done and found it a lot better and more control over it…. Just a question from a beginner Dave…. Would I have to seal at all the stages of different process to keep from losing it or is it a specific order and seal at the end. ( I did varnish after main coat ) thanks for great video 👍
Thank you for sharing this....and partnering with pzrm36.
My pleasure SchewinHund. Great name, by the way ;)
Great video about making rust. I have just one problem with this. There are rarely rust on military equipment in use. There wouldnt be rust on that jerrycan. I could be used, worn out and muddy.
It's a fair point, Steelfingers. Call it artistic license! ;)
Use galkyd oil with oil paints if ur planning to oil gunk everything. It will dry faster and give it a good shine
I've never heard of galkyd before, I assumed you had made a spelling mistake until I googled it, heh heh! I'll pick some up next time I'm at an art supply store - thanks for the tip. Dave
Dave's Model Workshop np, i just started using it, there is also galkyd light or lite, it does the same thing but its thinner in consistency.
I'm new to the whole modeling and weathering, but I have a question, pls don't judge, what if u put maybe just one or two drop of water in the chalk to make it a bit more sticky to apply, does that work better and would it work?
Hey Dave thank your and Panzermeister36 for creating these how-to vids together. I am definitely now a fan of your (and his). The question I have is regarding the mud. I'm planning on using your dirt technique but was wondering if substituting the garden dirt with actual pigment will work also?
michelewinslow thanks for your comment, glad you find some value :) Yes, you could use pigment, it would give the mud a good colour so that you wouldn’t have to add paint I imagine, but it would be very expensive (remember, dirt is free!) and also I think you wouldn’t achieve the grainy texture that dirt gives. On balance, probably not worth it?
Thanks for the reply Dave. Think I will use both what you and Panzermeister recommend. BTW this is Michele's hubby. I didn't want you to think this was some lady trying to model armor lol.
I guessed that, but I've met a couple of female modellers and they are pretty amazing - it's rare, but not unheard of! Cheers, D
Can you still do the salt one with brush painting?
In theory, yes, so long as your paint was nice and thin. But I think you will encounter difficulties with brush strokes dislodging the salt flakes, and they might then tend to bunch up. Test it on an unobtrusive section, or a separate paint mule test subject, but I think it’s going to be tricky to achieve...
@@DavesModelWorkshop thank you
Thanks - fellow Aussie here. At the end if section two you show the end result of the rust, but you did not demonstarte how to obtain those rusty streak effects. Was it done with pigment, oils or what?
Hey mate, thanks for asking. If you're talking about the streaks at the 8:00 mark, they were one using rust coloured pigments (without any clear topcoat to seal them). Cheers, Dave
@@davidhourigan9769 Hi, thanks for your reply. Did you apply the pigment dry with a brush?
@@cobusprinsloo yes, that’s exactly how.
@@DavesModelWorkshop thanks mate.
There are different ways and purposes of using pastels. Not just to simulate dirt/dust. They come in a wide variety of colors and shades. I put some of it on the model and gently rub it in to to use as a filter to break up the monotony. You can either use colors similar to the camouflage or something wildly contrasting like white or even light blue on e.g. olive drab.
To simulate light dirt i mix pastels with water and generously apply this pulp on the model. When it's dry (usually a matter of minutes) i just brush the excess off. This stuff doesn't stick as well as paint (but better than pastel powder alone) and by manipulating the direction of the brush you can form various streaks.
Salt is quite popular with aircraft modellers to create paint chipping. Model is painted with metal colours. Salt is applied in desired places and the camouflage is sprayed on top of it. After removing salt you get the effect of chipped paint.
Hi Origami Chicken, all very true. I have actually done a previous standalone video on the salt technique, it's at ruclips.net/video/0r01GOvZ0e8/видео.html
Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave. I've tried to do washes with oil paints and thinners but what happens is the pigments in the paint separate out giving the wash an ugly grainy effect. I've tried different brands of paint including very expensive fine pigment paint, and various types of thinners and the same thing always happens. Would you have any idea what might be happening?
Thank you most kindly.
Hi, I had the same issue when I was doing my own wahses in the past. Then I switched th thinner to zipo fluid.. and what a difference.. sure, very nice results this way
About the sprockets and tracks, with all thet "mud" and general weathering, will it be easy to glue and assemble it to the tank...?
I would only add the mud to the tracks and sprockets AFTER I had the tracks in place. Agreed, if you gloop that stuff on beforehand you'll have a tough time fitting the tracks. Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave, I’ve been a big fan of you for years...Could you please suggest me any website where I can buy such old wartime figures like the Vietnam jeep and the old truck with army men?
thanks, i needed that
glad to hear it Vortex! Cheers, Dave
in hairspray weathering should i varnish the base color before hairspraying ?
No, there is no need to, unless it is a particularly delicate base coat like a metallic.
Dec. 2017---Thanks for the video. Getting back into modeling, but this time it's 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas. One is being called The Fountain which is a combination of using 2 different sized sour cream lids as my molds for the plaster of paris foundation/base, with the 2 tiered fountain parts made from a cut up plastic wine glass & sheet styrene. Used Krylon fine stone spray paint for the foundation/base which has given it realistic stone granite look. As to the fountain parts, spray painted first with a grey primer and then a flat black yesterday. Weathering the foundation is not going to be a problem, but have been wondering how to weather the all black fountain parts. Will use regular table salt for its uniform size to represent pigeon poop and probably use chalk to weather everything else, including several miniature praying angels & Mary who'll have rust streaks on them. Included in this diorama will be a tired looking woman sitting on the ledge of the fountains rim with her weapon, pack and dog besides her. Of course the fountain will be empty/filled with some debri and because of one of the fountain rims cracked while working on it, will have a small tree growing from that crack.
That sounds cool! It tells a great story - that's my main requirement of a diorama, does it tell a compelling tale? And yours certainly does. Please let me know how you get on mate - Dave
Hi Dave, somewhere I saw people use to satin, gloss or matt or whatever....what are used for those products?
HI Alan, are you talking about the clear coat before weathering? Or one that is applied to the final weathered model?
@@DavesModelWorkshop Hi Dave, that's the point, I'm totally confused about what to use and when to use one instead another coat...
@@alaniano Okay. Some people do apply a clear coat over the main overall colour, before they start weathering (washes, etc). It protects the base coat. I've never bothered, as long as you are careful you shouldn't destroy the base coat, but I get why some people do. The second is a clear coat at the very end, to protect and seal in all the weathering you have done. Again, I don't tend to bother as it can tend to dull down some of the effects you have so carefully applied. But if you will be handling or moving your finished model much, or cleaning it regularly, it's a good way to protect it. Just don't apply a gloss over your carefully weathered tank!
@@DavesModelWorkshop Hi Dave, thank you so much for your answers, I appreciate it...thank you for your time....bye 😇
😂😂 "if you want to be a fancypants you could use water from a tap"😂😂👌👏
I imagen you can also use Mod podge in place of white glue
You certainly could, yes.
Hi. Thank you for this. Question: can I apply your techniques on acrylics? Just wondering if the oils and turns might eat into it.
If anything the techniques work better on acrylic base coats. Particularly effects like oil paint weathering work well on acrylic base coats.
@@DavesModelWorkshop thank you. That's great, I'll use your advice.
Please use white light. Everything we see gets yellow artificial light and we do not have a clear picture. Thank you for your good advice.
With the mud, do I need to use a particular kind of dirt or can I just use dog dirt?
So are oil based washes and the like are ok to be ainted over acrylic Tamiya base colour with it ripping into the base coat?
Yes, correct. Oil washes over an acrylic base colour are fine. Oil washes over an enamel base will destroy the enamel base. Cheers, Dave
you can also use colored pencils to create your own pigment
Contending for The Faith - any particular pencils? Chalky, oily, anything to look out for? I’m keen to try it! Dave
Dave's Model Workshop hey Dave, the ones I used are apparently "Gallery" brand. I would classify them as 'regular' colored pencils, the type you'd get for your kids. The lead seemed kind of hard and dry.. I literally used a box cutter and scored the wood on either side to extract the lead, then ground down with sand paper.. Hope that helps :)
Thanks mate, I'll give that a try :)
Dave's Model Workshop cheers