What a fantastic lesson!!!! Especially information what colour mixing will neutralise granulation and which will intensify it. Thank you very much Nina🙂
Thank you Nina, this is a great video, have bookmarked it. I especially learned a lot from the discussion of neutral tint. I was only surprised that there was no discussion about your actual palette.
Hi Glenda, it's John Pike 20 well palette. I was super happy about it for a while and now not so much. It was already a "longish" video, so I decided to do a separate video as soon as my new palette arrives and i paint with it for a few weeks.
It is very difficult to keep a palette down to just 20 basic pigments. I keep playing and can not come up with a universal palette that I like. I love lavender, horizon blue and neutral tint (holbein brand). I have not used Payne's gray in years but I have fallen in love with Schmincke's Delft blue (BP60). I stay away from the cadmiums because they are so expensive and they are alternatives out there such as scarlet lake for cadmium scarlet. I have drifted back to cad yellow pale in an effort to find a better yellow to mix green. I have some connivence greens on my palette because I get tired of mixing them. I recently bought a tube of w/n aqua and really like it for mixing greens. I do love Quin Gold. I have 10 tubes of the original single pigment. Thank you for sharing your palette and explaining why you made your choices.
Thank you Judy! I know the feeling, I substitute and introduce new colors all the time. It's fun that I can not resist! It doesn't mean I'll use every color on the pallet for a single painting :) but I believe mixing multiple colors, shifting temperature and saturation gives unbelievably beautiful and sometimes unexpected results. Watercolors are so advanced now, it would be shame not to try what's available 👍
Fabulous, informative tutorial. Thank you, Nina. Love to know how/why your plastic palette doesn't bead? In your videos it reacts as porcelain, but appears to be plastic.
It's a John Pike palette, they use different type of plastic. It doesn't stain and also can be used for oils. It beads the very first time you use it, but you wipe it with tissue and it never beads again.
Considering you use cobalt and cadmium pigments, I am curious how you dispose of brush water and other watercolor waste such as from cleaning your pallette. Thanks for sharing your artistry on RUclips.
Hi, this is so amazing video puffed with so many information. Thank you. Can I ask, what is that pallete you use? I can find only very small ones in comparison to yours. And when I look at you as you are mixing colors I think you need space to do it properly.
Thank you Nina for this very educational video! I must say that I am some what overwhelmed by so many choices and mixers!!! I am very amazed and humble by your wounderful knowledge! Thanks again!!!🙂👍👍👍
Please don't be! At the end of the day, there is only (some sort of) red, blue and yellow, that make orange, green and purple, and grey/brown if you mix them all together
Thanks for this excellent excellent video, Nina. Great explanations on the purpose each color serves and how you mix them. The first time you said 'buff' with your lovely accent it sounded like you said 'barf' and I thought, "Hmmm, does Daniel Smith have a new pigment I'm not familiar with?" 😁😂
Hi Gerry, I have a portrait tutorial, hope it will answer you question. I have a large palette there, but name all the colour I use. Https://ruclips.net/video/bkEWtrhctnU/видео.html For small people in the scene, I usually use a mix of either Raw or Burnt Sienna and Cad. Red Light.
Thank you very much for sharing this! I have just discovered your channel and love your painting so much!! I love the way you manage the contrast (value?) and the dar powerfull athmosphere of your paintings¡ I am just starting with watercolours, early beginner, and looking for a minimal palette to start with. I am using the winsor and newton cotman student hues... May I ask what choises would you recommend for minimal palette of 6 to 10 colours to start?? Thank you so much fot your advice!!
Thank you Andre! It's a pleasure! I like W&N too, which is usually a surprise for the viewers :) I think everyone just expects Daniel Smith to be choice#1 :) I have a very "classy" palette and usually recommend it: Cobalt Blue, Ultramarine Blue, Yellow Ochre, B.Sienna, Cad.Red light, Alizarin Crimson. I also have Cobalt Turquoise from Holbein, great for mixing greens, and Lavender for painting background as it's opaque and adds to a "hazy" feel. But it's very similar to a mix of Cobalt Blue and C.Red (both full or semi opaque), so definitely Lavender can be ignored. The last paint I use a lot is Neutral Tint, but it can be substituted by mixing blue, red and yellow (although, it is easier if it's already there, so you don't constantly mix primary three for you darkest darks).
@@nvfineartstudio7296 oh thank you!! I am working with the student quality of Winsor & Newton, not the professional ones, still I think good enough to start learning. Thank you for the selection! I really appreciate your time to answer. Do you have any step by step course to start with watercolour for beginners?
Cotman is great too, it just has a little more "filler" but the pigment itself is the same. I'm working on the course at the moment, hopefully it'll be available mid summer.
@@nvfineartstudio7296 hi, I hope you are well. I took a look at the Cotman's pigment chart and I noticed the pigments are not always the same comparing with w&n proffesionals. Particularly the reds and yellows are mixed pigments in w&n Cotman while, of course, there are single pigment yellows and reds in w&n proffesional (Just to let you know) Anyway here (Spain)the Cotman's and Van Gogh's are considered a decent student grade watercolors for learning. I have Cotman to play with my child while I use the professional w&n for "serious" practiceing. Best regards!
Me desespera tratar de leer los subtítulos traducidos al españor y ver a la vez lo que haces, no me quiero perder nada, tus consejos y explicaciones, por lo que bajo al mínimo la velocidad de reproduccion😅 ya que hablas rápido y constante y yo leo terriblemente lento. Bueno, es muy lindo lo que haces, tus clases y tus pinturas son un privilegio de ver ❤😍me encanta!
Hiya Nina, Thanks for a fascinating insight into your colour palette. The Jaune from Holbein that you mentioned; which one is it? They have two called Jaune Brilliant #1 and #2, and they are different in their temperature, no 2 being a warmer tone that gives a really lovely glow even when diluted and is great for sunrise. I find that mixing Maimeri Blu Naples Yellow with D S Buff gives me the same result in temperature but acts slightly differently in that it doesn't spread as far on Saunder's Waterford CP or Rough. Take care Nina, David. XX
Hi David, it's #1, the paler one. That's good to know! I find #1 is similar to Buff, but warmer/stronger and fully opaque, which is great. I might get #2 as well if it's warm, then won't need to add red for sky...I'm starting to like Holbein more and more
@@nvfineartstudio7296 Holbein make some lovely paints but also a lot of them are multiple pigments. However, they don't produce pan colours as their paints dry perfectly in the palette as you will know. Have you ever tried the Italian brand Maimeri Blu? They are beautiful and most of their range of 90 colours are single pigment. They completely reformulated their range about 3 years ago, as did Schminke and Winsor and Newton previous to that. They are sold in 12 ml tubes and half pans and are very strongly pigmented and retaining the true nature of the individual pigments. The only reviews about them on RUclips are older ones before the reformulation, but try looking up Eric Lin's channel;. Café Watercolour because he did a good review on the previous ones but it will give you an good Idea of what they are like. I think that you may have guessed that I love them! XX
Thanks David! I will have a look. I need Sepia, I may get it from them :) I know Eric, we were a part of Andy Evansens group for a while. I'll check out his review!
Ciao Nina, sono un tuo nuovo fan da circa quattro mesi. Mi piace molto il tuo stile impressionista, sulla scia dei tuoi compatrioti Joseph, Hermann e Alvaro. Se non sono indiscreto, potresti dirci l'ordine in cui metti sulla tavolozza i colori che usi normalmente nei tuoi filmati. Sarei grato. E grazie per tutti i tuoi interessanti video insegnamenti
Yes, that right. But, the primary red and yellow are warm and the primary blue is cool, everything else is relative. There are cool and warm blues, reds, yellows, greens, oranges, even blacks. In regards to my decision making while paint: I analyze things in relation to each other and refer to my source as well. I try to suggest depth with cooler shades. For example, use warm olive green for middle ground trees and cool "blue-green" for background trees. Also, colors bounce from each other as light, if yellow banana sits next to green apple, the I need to paint the banana side next to apple cooler (adding a bit of blue to the yellow). Another concern is color harmony, if all painting is more turquoise/Cobalt blue tone, I can't suddenly start painting with violets, they will be too warm.
@nvfineartstudio7296 thank you so much. Such things seem so difficult. Whatever the local color, the temperature of the light decides if it is cool or warm, is it what I should understand. Thank you so much
You use a lot more WN (as opposed to DS) than a lot of other artists I've seen. All of the pigments I have on hand are DS. It should be fine for following along with your paintings right?
Hi Nina. I’m curious of your thoughts about the fact that it is regarded as “wrong” to use white in watercolor as we are supposed to use the white of the paper instead, and also “wrong” to use black in any paint since the impressionists banned it from their palettes in the late XIX. As a result, it seems to be disregarded to use any white or black in watercolour. But, and I will assume here my natural sarcasm (I’m not inclined toward hard rules I should say, I have a tendency to question them) - and it is not a critic, just an observation - but isn’t “buff” and “neutral tint” a sort of white and black with more fancy names permitting watercolourists to use white and black without being disregarded? I think a more serious question would be: why use buff if you could have the same colour mixing white with (let say) ochre and what is the difference between neutral tint and black while mixing? Thank you!
Very good question! this is what we were taught at art school as well. But, now, I believe art is not about the tools used, it's about the message you what to deliver and the feelings evoke. I saying that, i never actually paint with white, it looks horrible, I leave white of the paper, but I use white or Jaune Brilliant for small highlights. In regards to the mixes: Buff titanium is actually semi transparent, (Chinese white is actually more opaque, and titanium white is fully opaque), it is very useful to add to mixes to gently suggest hazy feel in the clouds for example or distance in the background. In regards to Neutral Tint, it's very handy to have ready available black, but when I paint I actually never use it on it's own for darks unless for little darkest dark details. The darks also need to be in harmony with everything else, so it's best to make the dark out of the colours already in the painting. But again, these are just my techniques and observations. The last point, paint manufacturers created so many new colors and paints, it's silly not to try them ☺️, Lavender, Luna black, love them 👍
Thank you for your answer. I thought Chinese white would have been equivalent about his opacity. I still wonder what real difference there is between black and neutral tint, is it more neutral? You seem to use neutral tint to darken warm colors, I wonder if ivory black could do the job as it is warm. Again, I signify to you my interest of a tutorial about mixing greys. It would be awesome.
@Neorhim Neutral Tint by W&N is quite unique, it's warm, yes, but it has an ability to make other colors vibrant yet subtle. I tried a few other brands nothing so far compared. It has this very interesting velvety texture and depth even when used on it's own. Re greys, yes it's on my list, I was going to do something else for this weekend: painting with opposite hues, someone else requested a while ago, but I think we can do mixing greys and then opposites, I'll see i how go.
In regards to the whites: Buff titanium is semi transparent, Chinese White is semi opaque. It's very obvious when you try to mix it for the clouds. Buff makes it a little dreamy/hazy, but Chinese white makes it milky. I suppose it's such a tiny difference 🤣 probably no one except me even notice it
Hm… that’s funny, I thought “semi-opaque” vs “semi-transparent” was a mistake on Jackson’s website, a translation goof. I’ll believe you since you say there is a difference! Haha. About greys and ”broken” tints, you do,as you want, of course, I’m so happy you plan to do it. It is this video about your colours and also the painting I tried to paint following you that gave me a lot of hints about the fact that I don’t know how to mix warm and cool greys properly, how to oppose them, how to “break” the hues to have more neutral tints and how in all that to create harmony. I think you probably have a lot to say and, as I said in another message, there is not a lot of “RUclipsrs” talking about it profoundly and proficiently. I, of course, don’t have all the exact colors you have but I hope to understand the principles behind your practice and figure out how to translate and create my own greys and harmony with what I have (this is sometimes a problem with tutorials, most often you feel as you need what the teacher has because they don’t explain the principles behind their way). Thank you to share your knowledge, you are very passionate but, if I may say so, please, take care of yourself too. I see all your answers to everyone and I hardly understand how you do it and keep being sane. ;-)
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What a fantastic lesson!!!! Especially information what colour mixing will neutralise granulation and which will intensify it. Thank you very much Nina🙂
Thank you Anna!
Great explanations of most of all the colors we use in our paintings, love the different color combinations.Fantastic.thanks so much!🤗
Great explanations of your color palette Thanks!
Thank you Nina, this is a great video, have bookmarked it. I especially learned a lot from the discussion of neutral tint. I was only surprised that there was no discussion about your actual palette.
Hi Glenda, it's John Pike 20 well palette. I was super happy about it for a while and now not so much. It was already a "longish" video, so I decided to do a separate video as soon as my new palette arrives and i paint with it for a few weeks.
Yes, hoping to see those Holbein paint performance. Thank you Nina.
Fantastic! Learnt so much from you in this video. Thank you 😁🙏👏🏻
Thanks Vicki! I'm so glad!
Thanks for your detailed assistance!🤗
This is marvelous. Thank you for sharing your colors and how you choose which brands work best.
Thanks Roberta, I'm glad it's useful!
Thank you for the demo ,and give a detail information. I also take heart at seeing your later painting.
Thank you Lilian!
Thanks Nina, always interested in what others are using and why they choose a certain brand over another based on performances
Thank you Mike! I'm so glad it's useful!
Thanks Nina always informative to hear your thoughts on your colour choices.
You are the most welcome! I'm so glad it's useful!
Thank you Nina....this demo and info are very helpful.
This is awesome! ☺️
Lovely video. Very informative and explaining your thought process and examples provided a useful frame of reference. Well done my dear.
Thank you! I'm so glad it's helpful!
Excellent information and practical tips, as always. The mixing examples were very helpful to see. Thank you Nina
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Dear Nina, thank you for your amazing lessons !! Alex
Always a pleasure!
I really appreciate your videos. I just recently signed up for your Patreon. I am really learning so much from you.
I'm so happy to hear that!
Salut Nina, Merci beaucoup pour un autre excellent tutoriel. j'aime beaucoup tes tutos
I wish I had seen this a few years ago. Made much of the theory clear
It is very difficult to keep a palette down to just 20 basic pigments. I keep playing and can not come up with a universal palette that I like. I love lavender, horizon blue and neutral tint (holbein brand). I have not used Payne's gray in years but I have fallen in love with Schmincke's Delft blue (BP60). I stay away from the cadmiums because they are so expensive and they are alternatives out there such as scarlet lake for cadmium scarlet. I have drifted back to cad yellow pale in an effort to find a better yellow to mix green. I have some connivence greens on my palette because I get tired of mixing them. I recently bought a tube of w/n aqua and really like it for mixing greens. I do love Quin Gold. I have 10 tubes of the original single pigment. Thank you for sharing your palette and explaining why you made your choices.
Thank you Judy! I know the feeling, I substitute and introduce new colors all the time. It's fun that I can not resist! It doesn't mean I'll use every color on the pallet for a single painting :) but I believe mixing multiple colors, shifting temperature and saturation gives unbelievably beautiful and sometimes unexpected results. Watercolors are so advanced now, it would be shame not to try what's available 👍
Great as usual. I am in Perth and will go to Jackson's to get lavender. Thanks .
Welcome to Australia, hope you like it!
very informative and as always makes me want to try out your advice. thanks for sharing.
This is awesome! I'm so glad it inspiring. Thank you Frances!
Fabulous, informative tutorial. Thank you, Nina. Love to know how/why your plastic palette doesn't bead? In your videos it reacts as porcelain, but appears to be plastic.
It's a John Pike palette, they use different type of plastic. It doesn't stain and also can be used for oils. It beads the very first time you use it, but you wipe it with tissue and it never beads again.
fantastic info... thank u.!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent presentation. Thank you
Thank you Catherine!
Considering you use cobalt and cadmium pigments, I am curious how you dispose of brush water and other watercolor waste such as from cleaning your pallette. Thanks for sharing your artistry on RUclips.
Hoping more demo like this. Thank Nina....we are missing your art demo.
I'll be testing new colors next week, will do my full review and comparison to my current palette, hope you like it 👍
@@nvfineartstudio7296 Thank you.....will definitely learn something new. More power to you.
Just found your channel...your work is amazing...and you make it look so easy....which we know it's not!!😅 LOVE your work!!
Thank you so much!
Hi, this is so amazing video puffed with so many information. Thank you. Can I ask, what is that pallete you use? I can find only very small ones in comparison to yours. And when I look at you as you are mixing colors I think you need space to do it properly.
Yes definitely, space is everything. It's "the universal John Pike palette" 20 well. I believe Artemiranda online store ship worldwide.
Thank you Nina for this very educational video! I must say that I am some what overwhelmed by so many choices and mixers!!! I am very amazed and humble by your wounderful knowledge! Thanks again!!!🙂👍👍👍
Please don't be! At the end of the day, there is only (some sort of) red, blue and yellow, that make orange, green and purple, and grey/brown if you mix them all together
Hi dear Nina please explain a bit about color bias. By the way I love your teaching style ❤❤
Thank you, I will, I'll do a tutorial 👍
Thanks for this excellent excellent video, Nina. Great explanations on the purpose each color serves and how you mix them. The first time you said 'buff' with your lovely accent it sounded like you said 'barf' and I thought, "Hmmm, does Daniel Smith have a new pigment I'm not familiar with?" 😁😂
Haha ☺️, oh all these names! You must be an expert on DS! They have such a great variety.
So helpful!
Thank you!
Always happy to share!
awesome!!! thank u!!!
How do you get skin tones? What paint do I mix?
Hi Gerry, I have a portrait tutorial, hope it will answer you question. I have a large palette there, but name all the colour I use. Https://ruclips.net/video/bkEWtrhctnU/видео.html For small people in the scene, I usually use a mix of either Raw or Burnt Sienna and Cad. Red Light.
Thank you very much for sharing this! I have just discovered your channel and love your painting so much!! I love the way you manage the contrast (value?) and the dar powerfull athmosphere of your paintings¡ I am just starting with watercolours, early beginner, and looking for a minimal palette to start with. I am using the winsor and newton cotman student hues... May I ask what choises would you recommend for minimal palette of 6 to 10 colours to start?? Thank you so much fot your advice!!
Thank you Andre! It's a pleasure! I like W&N too, which is usually a surprise for the viewers :) I think everyone just expects Daniel Smith to be choice#1 :) I have a very "classy" palette and usually recommend it: Cobalt Blue, Ultramarine Blue, Yellow Ochre, B.Sienna, Cad.Red light, Alizarin Crimson. I also have Cobalt Turquoise from Holbein, great for mixing greens, and Lavender for painting background as it's opaque and adds to a "hazy" feel. But it's very similar to a mix of Cobalt Blue and C.Red (both full or semi opaque), so definitely Lavender can be ignored. The last paint I use a lot is Neutral Tint, but it can be substituted by mixing blue, red and yellow (although, it is easier if it's already there, so you don't constantly mix primary three for you darkest darks).
@@nvfineartstudio7296 oh thank you!! I am working with the student quality of Winsor & Newton, not the professional ones, still I think good enough to start learning. Thank you for the selection! I really appreciate your time to answer.
Do you have any step by step course to start with watercolour for beginners?
Cotman is great too, it just has a little more "filler" but the pigment itself is the same. I'm working on the course at the moment, hopefully it'll be available mid summer.
@@nvfineartstudio7296 oh good news!
@@nvfineartstudio7296 hi, I hope you are well. I took a look at the Cotman's pigment chart and I noticed the pigments are not always the same comparing with w&n proffesionals. Particularly the reds and yellows are mixed pigments in w&n Cotman while, of course, there are single pigment yellows and reds in w&n proffesional (Just to let you know)
Anyway here (Spain)the Cotman's and Van Gogh's are considered a decent student grade watercolors for learning. I have Cotman to play with my child while I use the professional w&n for "serious" practiceing.
Best regards!
Me desespera tratar de leer los subtítulos traducidos al españor y ver a la vez lo que haces, no me quiero perder nada, tus consejos y explicaciones, por lo que bajo al mínimo la velocidad de reproduccion😅 ya que hablas rápido y constante y yo leo terriblemente lento. Bueno, es muy lindo lo que haces, tus clases y tus pinturas son un privilegio de ver ❤😍me encanta!
Muchas gracias! Tratare devhablar mas lento ☺️
Great video ! What is the brand of your Buff titanium ? :)
Thank you Raphaelle! It's Daniel Smith.
@@nvfineartstudio7296 thanks ☺️
Hiya Nina, Thanks for a fascinating insight into your colour palette. The Jaune from Holbein that you mentioned; which one is it? They have two called Jaune Brilliant #1 and #2, and they are different in their temperature, no 2 being a warmer tone that gives a really lovely glow even when diluted and is great for sunrise. I find that mixing Maimeri Blu Naples Yellow with D S Buff gives me the same result in temperature but acts slightly differently in that it doesn't spread as far on Saunder's Waterford CP or Rough. Take care Nina, David. XX
Hi David, it's #1, the paler one. That's good to know! I find #1 is similar to Buff, but warmer/stronger and fully opaque, which is great. I might get #2 as well if it's warm, then won't need to add red for sky...I'm starting to like Holbein more and more
@@nvfineartstudio7296 Holbein make some lovely paints but also a lot of them are multiple pigments. However, they don't produce pan colours as their paints dry perfectly in the palette as you will know. Have you ever tried the Italian brand Maimeri Blu? They are beautiful and most of their range of 90 colours are single pigment. They completely reformulated their range about 3 years ago, as did Schminke and Winsor and Newton previous to that. They are sold in 12 ml tubes and half pans and are very strongly pigmented and retaining the true nature of the individual pigments. The only reviews about them on RUclips are older ones before the reformulation, but try looking up Eric Lin's channel;. Café Watercolour because he did a good review on the previous ones but it will give you an good Idea of what they are like. I think that you may have guessed that I love them! XX
Thanks David! I will have a look. I need Sepia, I may get it from them :) I know Eric, we were a part of Andy Evansens group for a while. I'll check out his review!
Ciao Nina, sono un tuo nuovo fan da circa quattro mesi. Mi piace molto il tuo stile impressionista, sulla scia dei tuoi compatrioti Joseph, Hermann e Alvaro. Se non sono indiscreto, potresti dirci l'ordine in cui metti sulla tavolozza i colori che usi normalmente nei tuoi filmati. Sarei grato. E grazie per tutti i tuoi interessanti video insegnamenti
Mükemmel 👍🌺💕
Cok tesekkurler!
Hello, which absolute pink color do you use? Say you need to paint à rose flower? Thank you
Hi Zuheyr, Alizarin Crimson, Q.Rose, Rose Madder, all permanent, or they turn grey in a matter of years under UV.
@@nvfineartstudio7296 Million thanks indeed!!
Always a pleasure 👍
@@nvfineartstudio7296 🥰
How do you decide if a color is cool or warm? Aren't they relative? Thank you.
Yes, that right. But, the primary red and yellow are warm and the primary blue is cool, everything else is relative. There are cool and warm blues, reds, yellows, greens, oranges, even blacks. In regards to my decision making while paint: I analyze things in relation to each other and refer to my source as well. I try to suggest depth with cooler shades. For example, use warm olive green for middle ground trees and cool "blue-green" for background trees. Also, colors bounce from each other as light, if yellow banana sits next to green apple, the I need to paint the banana side next to apple cooler (adding a bit of blue to the yellow). Another concern is color harmony, if all painting is more turquoise/Cobalt blue tone, I can't suddenly start painting with violets, they will be too warm.
@nvfineartstudio7296 thank you so much. Such things seem so difficult. Whatever the local color, the temperature of the light decides if it is cool or warm, is it what I should understand. Thank you so much
Yes, that's right 👍
You use a lot more WN (as opposed to DS) than a lot of other artists I've seen. All of the pigments I have on hand are DS. It should be fine for following along with your paintings right?
Yes, you right, it's absolutely fine to use what you have on hand.
Wow wow wow wow wow
Thank you Rudolph!
Hi Nina.
I’m curious of your thoughts about the fact that it is regarded as “wrong” to use white in watercolor as we are supposed to use the white of the paper instead, and also “wrong” to use black in any paint since the impressionists banned it from their palettes in the late XIX. As a result, it seems to be disregarded to use any white or black in watercolour. But, and I will assume here my natural sarcasm (I’m not inclined toward hard rules I should say, I have a tendency to question them) - and it is not a critic, just an observation - but isn’t “buff” and “neutral tint” a sort of white and black with more fancy names permitting watercolourists to use white and black without being disregarded? I think a more serious question would be: why use buff if you could have the same colour mixing white with (let say) ochre and what is the difference between neutral tint and black while mixing?
Thank you!
Very good question! this is what we were taught at art school as well. But, now, I believe art is not about the tools used, it's about the message you what to deliver and the feelings evoke. I saying that, i never actually paint with white, it looks horrible, I leave white of the paper, but I use white or Jaune Brilliant for small highlights. In regards to the mixes: Buff titanium is actually semi transparent, (Chinese white is actually more opaque, and titanium white is fully opaque), it is very useful to add to mixes to gently suggest hazy feel in the clouds for example or distance in the background. In regards to Neutral Tint, it's very handy to have ready available black, but when I paint I actually never use it on it's own for darks unless for little darkest dark details. The darks also need to be in harmony with everything else, so it's best to make the dark out of the colours already in the painting. But again, these are just my techniques and observations. The last point, paint manufacturers created so many new colors and paints, it's silly not to try them ☺️, Lavender, Luna black, love them 👍
Thank you for your answer. I thought Chinese white would have been equivalent about his opacity. I still wonder what real difference there is between black and neutral tint, is it more neutral? You seem to use neutral tint to darken warm colors, I wonder if ivory black could do the job as it is warm. Again, I signify to you my interest of a tutorial about mixing greys. It would be awesome.
@Neorhim Neutral Tint by W&N is quite unique, it's warm, yes, but it has an ability to make other colors vibrant yet subtle. I tried a few other brands nothing so far compared. It has this very interesting velvety texture and depth even when used on it's own. Re greys, yes it's on my list, I was going to do something else for this weekend: painting with opposite hues, someone else requested a while ago, but I think we can do mixing greys and then opposites, I'll see i how go.
In regards to the whites: Buff titanium is semi transparent, Chinese White is semi opaque. It's very obvious when you try to mix it for the clouds. Buff makes it a little dreamy/hazy, but Chinese white makes it milky. I suppose it's such a tiny difference 🤣 probably no one except me even notice it
Hm… that’s funny, I thought “semi-opaque” vs “semi-transparent” was a mistake on Jackson’s website, a translation goof. I’ll believe you since you say there is a difference! Haha. About greys and ”broken” tints, you do,as you want, of course, I’m so happy you plan to do it. It is this video about your colours and also the painting I tried to paint following you that gave me a lot of hints about the fact that I don’t know how to mix warm and cool greys properly, how to oppose them, how to “break” the hues to have more neutral tints and how in all that to create harmony. I think you probably have a lot to say and, as I said in another message, there is not a lot of “RUclipsrs” talking about it profoundly and proficiently. I, of course, don’t have all the exact colors you have but I hope to understand the principles behind your practice and figure out how to translate and create my own greys and harmony with what I have (this is sometimes a problem with tutorials, most often you feel as you need what the teacher has because they don’t explain the principles behind their way). Thank you to share your knowledge, you are very passionate but, if I may say so, please, take care of yourself too. I see all your answers to everyone and I hardly understand how you do it and keep being sane. ;-)
🤗🤗🤗🤗🙌🙌😊
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