2010 mk2.5 Focus ST225 Master Clutch Cylinder Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- This clip shows how I removed & installed my master clutch cylinder.
I did not show how to replace the clutch return springs as that is covered in my other video.
I struggled to find clips of what I have done. Yes there are 1 or 2 clips with not a lot of info to go by, hence why I made this clip, in the hopes that it would give a more detailed & visual explanation of how to do this task.
I hope this clip is able to help you with this task & that what was presented is not too confusing.
Thank you very much for showing the bit about the grommet that remains in the old one cylinder. I struggled for hours to find why yhe new cylinder was leaking, to the point that I ordered another new part. Now I know I can return the 2nd cylinder I bought. Thanks
Glad I could help. Exact same thing happened with me as well, bought a new cylinder, thought it was leaking, took it back, told them it was faulty, they ordered another. So while waiting for the 2nd cylinder, I did some research where I found out about that grommet. Been a year, no leak.
How did you get to the top bolt ??
With great difficulty lol I found it challenging using a ratchet due to the extremely limited space. So I used a ring spanner instead, took longer & gave my arms a good workout. With the bolt being in such an awkward spot, its also difficult to see what you doing, so removing & inserting the bolt is done by feeling your way around.
Just done this today, replaced one with a plastic rod with a new one with the metal rod. Your video helped me all the way through thank you 👍🏾
Glad I could help Victor👍🏽
Good tutorial really useful!
Thank you so much!
This was a useful video, but it missed out how to remove and replace the CMC from the pedal bracket.
The CMC has a bayonet mounting, so you have to rotate it, and it's pretty stiff.
Once in position, the CMC mounting bracket is going nowhere, as it's sandwiched between the pedal bracket and the bulkhead, which is why it's difficult to remove.
If I recall correctly, to remove the CMC you rotate it clockwise as seen from the engine side, or anticlockwise as seen from inside.
What I did was undo and refit the CMC while the pedal assembly was very loosely bolted in place.
It's a horrible, back-breaking job. Nick
Hi Nick. Yes I agree with you, my body was not happy with me the next day😅. Thank you for your assistance in helping with the removal of the CMC from the bracket. I tried it both ways, loosening the CMC while still in the vehicle & loosening it while the whole assembly was on the counter. Removing the CMC on the counter worked better for me as I struggled to unclip the white tab at the back of the pedal.
Very good explanation.
Thank you, much appreciated. Hope I was able to assist in some way.
Hi, we have very little clutch resistance at the pedal, and it will not go into gear but we've not lost any brake fluid, strange, any ideas? Ours is a 2010 base model 5 speed.
Hi Pete... If I'm not mistaken, the most likely issue would be that the master clutch cylinder (MCC) seals have given in, these seals are internal, so the whole clutch cylinder would have to be replaced. This is what happened to me, started losing resistance over time until one day the pedal stayed down.
Inside the MCC, there are seals which creates the pressure within the system when pressing the pedal. So when these seals give in, they allow the piston to move freely in the cylinder with little to no resistance, much like using a syringe without the rubber piece inside. Replacing this is the cheaper of the options in my opinion as next on the list would be a faulty slave cylinder, which is inside the gearbox, thus the gearbox would have to be removed.
I do recommend calling up your local workshop mechanic & explaining the issue to them, they may be able to provide a better diagnosis.
@@Malejie Thanks very much that makes sense.
Hi, how do you bleed the system after changing the part (where so the bleed nipple?) thanks
There are 2 ways if I understand correctly. The main way is through the reservoir, as if you were bleeding the brakes.
The other way, is to follow the metal line out the cylinder, along the back of the engine bay, under the battery box & down to the gearbox. The bleed nipple is located near the top on the gearbox casing, might be hidden by the wiring loom or heater hose. Yes, it an awkward location😅
Would this be the same for the Volvo c30? Since they are basically the same cars ?
Is your clutch stiff in this car? I have an 08 facelift 1.6 and they clutch hurts your foot and leg after a short drive is this normal? Changed EVERYTHING 🤦🏼♂️
My clutch is not really stiff but more like springy, in the sense that its ok to depress but when releasing, just the last bit before its fully released, it springs back but nothing to drastic.
Good day where u from am from Eldorado park and I don't have clucth on my st.mk2
You alright bud the can I get the yellow spring on the pedal on it own as mine is bent and pedal not coming all the way out
Hi Jon, not too sure what you referring to but have a look at my other clip related to replacing the spring, hopefully there is something there that will provide more clarity. ruclips.net/video/aLYW3mGFCEs/видео.html
CJ, when you removed the pedal assembly, did you disconnect the steering column first? Cheers, Nick
Hi Nick... No I did not disconnect the column, just moved it into its highest position to give a bit more room for me to work with.
Thank you for the video but just wanted to know what symptoms lead you to changing this. Was it hard to change all gears?
Hi Tiger... My pedal kept losing pressure, became soft & did not always come all the way back up after being released.
Good work in them tight soots 💪🏽 I’m guessing this would be the same for a mk2 facelift?
Yeah, my arms & back were not too happy with me the following day lol & I believe the assembly setup is the same for the whole MK2 range from 2005 till 2011.