Used to work at an 80 year old apartment complex as a maintenance supervisor. All 100 original units have hardwood floors that we were going through and refinishing. We contracted out all of the refinishing and maintenance coats however I still got to see the process done. If you need to screen a floor, first off use as fine of a screen as possible on your 14" buffer. And that being said keep it moving and DO NOT let it sit in one place. You will burn through the finish in a heartbeat if you are not careful. Get a good vacuum with HEPA filter and bag and a soft brush attachment to thoroughly clean the floor after scrubbing or screening. Also professional hardwood installers all utilize lambswool t bar applicators for applying finish. It is worth it to invest in the best and learn with the right tools. I now work at a local carpet cleaning and restoration company but when I was at the apartments I was looking into buying the necessary equipment to do all maintenance myself on the floors.
Had some scratches on existing hardwood floor in Living, Dining, Kitchen and hallway. (Had hired a guy to install hardwood floors in two bedrooms that were previously carpeted.) He said he could screen and coat the floors. The floors had spots which were not strictly flat--so he ended up "over screening" or "over-sanding", and removed the finish and stain to bare wood in many areas. So the floors ended up with spots and patches of no stain--white spots. He ruined my floor. Can those white spots be touched up and restained or would a complete sanding down to bare wood is necessary, with re-staining and two coats of poly? He also messed up on the bedroom hardwood installtion, so the floor he put has to be ripped up and redone.
What about something that’s got a color dye in it that dripped on a wood floor is that something that can be removed with a good deep cleaning or would that be down in the finish?
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Used to work at an 80 year old apartment complex as a maintenance supervisor. All 100 original units have hardwood floors that we were going through and refinishing.
We contracted out all of the refinishing and maintenance coats however I still got to see the process done.
If you need to screen a floor, first off use as fine of a screen as possible on your 14" buffer. And that being said keep it moving and DO NOT let it sit in one place. You will burn through the finish in a heartbeat if you are not careful.
Get a good vacuum with HEPA filter and bag and a soft brush attachment to thoroughly clean the floor after scrubbing or screening.
Also professional hardwood installers all utilize lambswool t bar applicators for applying finish. It is worth it to invest in the best and learn with the right tools.
I now work at a local carpet cleaning and restoration company but when I was at the apartments I was looking into buying the necessary equipment to do all maintenance myself on the floors.
Can this product and application be applied to an aluminum oxide finish?
So if there’s aluminum oxide, how would you approach an engineered hardwood floor differently?
do you sell the screening pads used? Do you have a link to what is needed after the cleaning and before the recoating?
Had some scratches on existing hardwood floor in Living, Dining, Kitchen and hallway. (Had hired a guy to install hardwood floors in two bedrooms that were previously carpeted.) He said he could screen and coat the floors. The floors had spots which were not strictly flat--so he ended up "over screening" or "over-sanding", and removed the finish and stain to bare wood in many areas. So the floors ended up with spots and patches of no stain--white spots. He ruined my floor. Can those white spots be touched up and restained or would a complete sanding down to bare wood is necessary, with re-staining and two coats of poly? He also messed up on the bedroom hardwood installtion, so the floor he put has to be ripped up and redone.
What pad were you using on the 175 for prep here?
How do you test for aluminum oxide and how do you deal with this situation?
Same question
I might be missing it, but what’s the coverage per container for that product?
It's about 700 SF per kit.
What about something that’s got a color dye in it that dripped on a wood floor is that something that can be removed with a good deep cleaning or would that be down in the finish?
Wat pad did u use?
Prep pad.
For applying finish most hardwood installers use a lambswool applicator.