This’d is great video Andy and very helpful. Do you happen to know If the 99k style tension assembly with the numbers will fit a 99 with the old style which has no number selector, just a thumb screw.
A nice question, but I don't know. This 99K is the only one I've ever worked on. I think it depends partially on which 99 you mean. Some of the very early ones have a much different parts list and style of parts, while "middle-aged" 99s have many of the same parts as the model in my video. I do have some parts manuals and I compared parts numbers between 99K-24 & 31 to the 99-13. The Releasing Pin Lever, Releasing Pin, and Tension Discs are the same. The Tension Stud and the "Spring Holder" that fits inside the nose are different parts numbers. It is encouraging that the Releasing Pins are the same b/c that means they are the same length which is usually a problem if they are not. The Check-Springs are different part numbers. If the tension stud fits into the Spring Holder then it may work with the old or new check spring. You may have seen this video about the old-style tension assembly ruclips.net/video/rChtDz0USSc/видео.html maybe you could watch and compare the parts to the ones in my video. You can buy an after-market numerated dial style assembly for about $10 to $15 and try it I guess.
@@cotswoldhipster7101 Good on you for giving it a try. Congratulations on your success 🏆I appreciate your sharing the question & answer in my comment section. I've pinned your comments to the top of the page for viewers to see first. Happy sewing and take care.
Built in Elizabeth New Jersey in late October of 1924! Originally it had a knee controller, but it was given to my grandmother with an aftermarket pedal. Also, my mother had the wiring on the motor was redone about a decade ago since the canvas insulation on the wires was starting to come apart. The original directions have stayed intact, and they even caution the user to contact the electric company to see if you have ac or dc electricity in your home. And yes, she shows her age but is gorgeous nonetheless!
Yes, you're welcome. I'm glad you found the video and thank you for working hard to keep your machine and service and taking time to leave a nice comment
Andy, you are a lifesaver - and a treasure! Thank you for all of your time and effort to make such awesome videos. I can't tell you how many I've watched to get me out of a "pile of parts" jam!!
Thank you, I like the way you take time to explain everything. My mom bought this machine in a cabinet before I was born. When I was about 6 months I had to have a blood transfusion so mom lost it due to my hospital bills. My grandfather bought it back for her as a surprise. Before she passed she gave it to me. I'm now almost 70 and going to attempt to clean it for the first time. Thinks to people like you I believe I can do it . Thank you.
Yes, you can do it. You can get the machine running nicely then. What a fantastic story and a treasured memento for your family. Thank you for sharing that. You're really made my day and I'm happy if my videos can help you accomplish your goals 🙏
Holy Moses! I did it! After 17 tries! I had that +- thing around backwards, as it was installed that way, no wonder she gnawed fabric and thread! Once I saw that Andy had it in the opposite way of my machine - and I fixed it - she sews like a million bucks. Just bought her from a rural owner, $40, she had no room for her. She takes practically no tension at all. Cleaned, machine, cabinet, all in the garage, now time to bring her in to take place in the living room where I can sew! Many thanks Andy!!
Nicely Done, Pat! I'm happy you found my video and that's a great machine for $40! I know you will enjoy crafting & sewing with it for a partner; all the more so as you helped it to sew proper again. Enjoy that and stop by again sometime.
Welcome and thanks for watching. This is my 1st one. I'm impressed with the quality of all these parts as I take them off the machine. So finely made in 1956.
@@andytubesewing1953 This model is THE best machine I've ever owned or used. The new ones feel like toys in comparison, and I prefer to use the simple old 99K despite its lack of fancy stitches. :)
@@RICDirector Good observation! "feel like toys" is a great description of some of the new machines I have seen. I saw some of them had only a 30 to 90-day warranty! With normal care and oiling, a model 99K can go 100 years IMO. Thank you for watching my channel.
Andy, I’m a fan. This video allowed me to fix a pesky upper tension annoyance by myself. After watching your video a couple of times, I wasn’t at all scared to dismantle my upper thread tension assembly, adjust it, and re-assemble it. My 99K now sews like a dream. Many MANY thanks for your clear and careful explanations.
you are welcome comments like yours really make my day and I'm glad that the videos can help you congrats on doing it yourself and learning a new skill hope to hear from you again take care.
Thank u Andy. I just pick up a 99 at yard sale for $10. I cleaned out bobbin area. So much lint. Then oiled real good. Runs so nice. And followed along taking apart cleaning and assembled tension assembly. U are a great teacher. Thank you.
Wow, Sue, you win the bargain of the year so far in 2021! A new motor belt costs more than that. It's such a nice model, and so strong and dependable. I'm glad you rescued it and found my channel. For those reading this, this video is part of a Playlist for model 99K and you can find all the videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for the nice comment, Sue, and take care.
I don't know if someone has said it already (surely they have?) but the easy way to remember the difference between convex and concave is that "caves" go in... they have a hollow and you can put things in them. So if you can put something in it and it doesn't fall out then it's hollowed out like a cave and that's a "concave" side. (A teacher taught me that at school when we were learning about lenses - I've never forgotten it!) :-)
Thanks for sharing this, Megan. Someone may have said it, but it wasn't me, haha 😀 Kudo's to your teacher for that good way to remember. I doubt I'll forget it now. Take care.
Dear Andy Tube, I acquired 2 of these darling machines from my mother in law and sister in law. Both in great condition. I got one all oiled and cleaned up (very little needed) and started sewing. The check spring wouldn't move when the foot was down but did move when foot was up. The tension disks were trapping the spring between disks and machine body. What to do???? Brr Brr Brr! Go to you tube. Your excellent education gave me the courage to tear it apart and start over. The tension assembly was rotated 180 so the check spring retention area was down and the whole assembly was too far into the hole in the machine body...even though the "plus-minus" pyramid spring housing was right side up. All fixed, all done, now sewing curved-edge face masks for our current Covid 19 situation. Guess what? The narrow foot and feed dogs go around curves as if on cruise control. Who knew!!!! I owe ya!
Wow, a really great story and thanks for sharing. I'm glad you found the video. BTW, my wife uses that narrow foot 95% of the time making clothes and she also loves the maneuverability. Take Care.
Wow, this video is amazing, thank you so much!! I'm working on a model 99 and this helped me figure out the correct placement of all the parts. Great explanations and step by step details!!
I appreciate your kind words, Margaret. Your Model 99 is a wonderful machine and I'm glad I could help you with it. BTW, here are my other 18 videos for that model in case you find other issues. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thaks for watching my channel. Take care.
I have a White 625 with a very similar tension setup. Watching this video helped me disassemble, clean, and reassemble my unit. Thanks so much! I’m sending a couple of photos to your email.🌼
Welcome, Susan. My understanding is that Singer bought White so many parts are similar. I looked at the pictures you sent (thank you) and your tension unit parts, except the dials, are Singer for sure. Nice to know and I should learn more about White machines. Sometimes I have trouble finding parts for vintage Singers and maybe a White model would have the same ones I could pilfer. Thanks for sharing with us. Take Care.
Thank you. I knew tensions were weong and took this tension thig apart, I just did not know how to out it back in properly. And this was the first video that came up. And it was so easy to do “fix” the problem. I need to try now to sew... Thank you for your help.. saved me headaches and money... Greeting from UK..
I'm really happy to read your comment. I'm glad you found the video and that it helped you finish the tension. I have 18 more videos about working on this model if you'd like more information or need other repairs. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z My first "Brexiteer"!! Good Luck.
Great video. Even a novice like me can take it apart and put it back together. Thank you! Now I will watch the bobbin tension and hopefully my fabric puckering will get better (along with pressure foot tension adjusting). Much appreciated!
Thanks very much, Rita. That bobbin area is tricky and took a while to figure out. I will be filming how to remove/replace every part except the arm shaft and forked feed connector. Stay tuned and take care.
Oh and can you suggest what to use as the red wool for oiling in the bobbin area is missing in mine? And maybe others my have the same problem as someone may have taken it out thinking it was a bunch of dust and thread pieces. I was thinking of using felt but not sure how much to stuff in. Your thoughts on this dilemma are very much appreciate. Thanks.
The Oil Pad. I used a piece of red felt cut from a spool pin. Shaped like a letter "V". .66" tall x .35: wide at the top x .10" wide at the bottom. I cut a shallow "V" notch into the top about .20" deep so one side of the notch will rest on the top of the hook and the other side of the notch will ride under the edge of the top of the hook; kind of inside the curve of the hook. The Oil Pad is screwed into the OIL PAD HOLDER which is a cone or funnel-shaped spring that screws into the side of the body of the Bobbin Case Position Bracket which has a threaded hole for the pad holder. The Position Bracket can be removed by loosening a set screw under the hook that holds the Position Bracket Hinge Stud in place. If you pull and push out the oil pad it can damage the spring hold. The pad should be twisted into the spring about 1/4" should do and then the top part can be trimmed and shaped to go above and below the hook race that the bobbin case rides on. The top of the oil pad "V" notch will oil the hook race and the bottom of the "V" will sweep the inside of the curve of the hook, below where the bobbin rides to keep lint from building up. Don't push the oil pad into the spring too far as it will bend the actual Bobbin Case Cushion Spring and change the thread gap between it and the bobbin case and cause malformation of stitches. It may be easier to remove and replace the oil pad after adding some oil to it. Or you could watch my Bobbin Area Parts Video when it comes out.
Too detailed I'm sure; sorry about that. I'm just too technical when writing I think. It's better I make the videos, haha. You're a diplomat to thank me for that explanation., hehe. Yes, take care.
I recently lucked upon a Precision Deluxe Model 202 with a "Dressmaker" badge on it. It has been so easy to work on. And it sews like a champ! I could easily sew tenting with this machine. Amazing.I am currently renovating the case. Stripping the wallpaper covering & replacing it with Tolex & decent handle & hardware.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes Sir. The wallpaper covering on the case was great back in the 50's. Tolex is what they use on guitar amplifiers. It has a "woven" backing. Most of the vinyl at fabric stores has a fleece backing.Thank you for all your videos & your efforts in the details. Maybe I can share some pics somehow when it's complete.
I think it is a fascinating material. Perfect choice for covering the wood carry case. I always welcome it when viewers share pictures and their stories of restoration work; a restored case would be something new for me, so feel welcome to send whatever you'd like to. andytube53@gmail.com
Hi Andy, I bought the Singer 192K about a week ago and it had the spring on the tension unit all bent out of shape. It seems to be almost exactly like your 99K, and this part is for sure the same unit. I didn't see this video until I had gone to eBay and purchased a used one there. After I saw this I went back to the machine and played with the unit until I got the spring bent back to pretty close to the right shape. I would have never known what that shape would be if it weren't for your attention to detail and showing that part so well. After reinstalling it and playing with the adjustment of the shape of the spring for a while and getting all all the other parts of the unit in the right order, it seems to now be working just fine again. I won't know until I get a few other parts in for the machine in a week or so to get the machine back running to see if I have it.... but now that I understand how it works because of this video you posted.... I am very confident I can rework it and get it all adjusted right and working again. Wish I had found this video before purchasing the part on eBay. Oh well.... I sure it will come in handy some day as I am going crazy buying machines like this one. So, anyway, thank you soooo much for taking the time to explain in such great detail how to do this stuff with these very cool videos you are doing to teach us how to restore these cool old pieces of art. Without guys like you what would guys like me do... ??? lol. I just love these machines and am very hooked on fixing em.
I'm glad you found me, Hunter. It is for people like you I made my channel. I enjoy working on the machines also and now there is much more info available. Thank you for saving that 192K, and any others you work on. I have 500 more videos for vintage Singer machines on my playlist page: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public Stop by anytime; always happy to hear from you. Take care.
its amazing some of my machines are over 100 years old. back then they did not have cnc machines they made parts the old way one by one . just look at some of those parts .
Every time I picked up the Tension Spring Regulator I was in awe. Machined from a solid cylinder of steel and just beautifully made. I don't think a Computer Numeric COntrol Milling Machine could have done it better. Then I got to the Hook ...
What a great video! I really enjoyed this because I have all of these machines and these crazy tension units are really a pain sometimes. Thanks for your help.
Thank you very much! "crazy tension" is a good description when we have problems, although I've called it much worse, haha. I also have a 7 video series on tension that goes into fairly deep detail about it that you might enjoy ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U Thanks for watching and best of luck with your new quilting channel!
Hi Andy. You inspired me to try my hand at restoring a vintage Singer after watching you take Coco to the spa 3 years ago. I have a 1928 99 that I am going to strip down - I mean really strip down for a repaint and re decal - but first I want to be proficient at disassembly and reassembly. I managed to replace a missing feed fork so that the stitch regulator worked, which made me proud since access to the back end is pretty much non existent. But I am having trouble getting my tension regulator just right. it is an older version of Cute but essentially the same concept and yet I can't get the tension to adjust at all - the tension releasing pin doesn't look like it is impacted when I lift the foot lever. I suspect I've got the foot lever system all out of whack since the tension system itself is pretty rudimentary. I know you did a video on the foot lever and thread take up system, but I don't think it included how to get it to interact with the tension pin. What do you suggest? These machines are just so beautiful in their craftsmanship - I think I would be entranced even if I didn't sew. Thank you for loving these machines and sharing your knowledge with us and keeping these gems from the garbage heap...they really are treasures as are you. I could watch you all day long.
You've got a real project going on there. Thanks for saving the machine. It is quite a job replacing the fork so you should feel very rewarded. The tension pin of the thread tension unit is pushed or activated by The Tension Releasing Lever that is inside the nose behind the needle & presser bars. The TPRR is moved (rocked) against the end of the Tension Releasing Pin of the tension unit by lifting the presser bar lifting lever. That pushing on the end of the pin opens a space between the tension discs so the thread has no tension. When the presser bar is lowered, the spring inside the tension unit pushes the discs together to create needle thread tension. The 99K presser bar video is here: ruclips.net/video/qFsJzJ9NH2s/видео.html I have a couple of videos about installing/replacing the TPRL on other models that would show you the general method of movement of the lever: ruclips.net/video/k9LdTvESJaM/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/O4pHwpobhe4/видео.html Those may help. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
Your video is very informative, as always. Thank you! I searched for information on the tension unit because I was trying to adjust the tension. I have not used this machine for a couple of years, but I can't recall having any problems with the stitches...could be my memory issue :/ The thread kept breaking as I sewed so I thought it was a tension issue. I tried to adjust it but was unable to turn the regulating thumb nut at all. I was able to turn the tension indicator flange, behind the nut, but only between 0-4. After watching your video I thought taking it apart may help. I actually had to use a spanner to remove regulating thumb nut (!) and then easily, the tension indicator flange. I then put it back together. It was very difficult to screw the regulating thumb nut back on. I'm not sure if it's a screw threading problem or maybe it needs oiling??? Now I can turn the regulating thumb nut but it's very! stiff. I tested sewing with this setting, but have no idea really what tension I am on, the number aligned at the top is at the 7 and the notch (?) on the nut is somewhere down to the left. I never did hear any "click" like you showed on your video. But the stitches are perfect on a short test strip I just sewed. Can you make any sense of my description? I look forward to your thoughts. Thank you.
Every time I had a hard-to-turn thumb nut it was because the threads of the nut were cross-threaded to the threads of the stud. Sometimes that happened b/c the nut was not flat to the surface of the stud while screwing on, and sometimes b/c the two "prongs of the stud were "pinched toward each other or were twisted or both. Most of the nuts are steel and many of the studs are aluminum, making the stud threads easier to cross-thread or "strip". I have used a needle nose plier to straighten the stud prongs and correct the spacing between them. The spacing should be equal from the tip to the back. If the tips are barely flared open a small amount that is OK too. If you look at @04:15 of the video and freeze it you can see the tips of the stud prongs are flared open. It is difficult and time-consuming to try and fix damaged threads on the stud but I have done it by straightening the stud prongs and adding a drop of oil and putting the nut on very evenly and slowly back and forth several times past the bad spot. When the threads are stripped and/or the stud prongs are bent the other pieces do not adjust properly, and the tension indicator number can be far off and the actual thread tension can be all over the place and even change right in the middle of sewing a seam. No one makes tension studs so I try hard to repair it but I have had to buy a used one, or a whole used tension assembly, on eBay. By the way, I have never had bad/damaged threads inside the thumb nut, but I always found them on the stud or that the stud was pinched.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you very much for your expert suggestions. I am not going to do anything for now because it's stitching beautifully. There's a project I need to finish. After that I will definitely look into the spacing in the stud (don't have needle nose pliers) and also the drop of oil.. I hope I can get it back into good working order. I will let you know how it goes. :)
The Singer 99K I found is missing the set screw on the outside of the tension assembly (to the right of the tension unit. Any idea where I could get one? Thank you so much for all your videos! They are GREAT!
I'm glad you enjoy my videos and thanks for watching my channel. That screw is called "Thread Take-Up Spring Regulator Set Screw". It is Singer Part Number 453. It is normally extremely hard to find any "new" Singer screws b/c most of them were made in proprietary (odd) sizes so you had to go to their stores. Normally, you look for used screws on eBay, etc. but have to buy the whole part that the screw holds, like the whole tension unit in this case. Since you live under a Lucky Star ✨ ( what is that like by the way, M P??) there is one seller online that apparently has brand new 👀 #453 screws for sale for $2.99 www.sewingpartsonline.com/set-screw-singer-453.aspx Happy for you and take care.
Than you, Andy, for all your great videos. I washed my 401 a following your instructions. I also separated all the cam area. Both came out nice and clean and machine is working great!! I also have a 99k but I sure messed up the take up spring on tensioner. Where can I get a replacement? Thanks ALOT Andy and I hope you're feeling better
It's very hard to find the exact spring unless it is used. This one from a respected long-time seller shows it will work. www.ebay.com/itm/291630242414
Thanks for all your great tutorials. I have just acquired a 99K and found that the check spring is bent and wonky. Could you please help me with part number. Or .one that will be compatible with that machine (sept 1955)
Hi Carol. A 1955 model should have the numbers on the tension dial. Here are a couple of trusted (by me) vendors I have bought from that have a spring that should work for you. Compare the pictures to yours of course. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck. www.ebay.com/itm/Tension-Check-Spring-For-Singer-66-99-Class-Sewing-Machine-32575/161674899440?hash=item25a4932ff0:g:kzQAAOSwcwhVL-gv www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replacement-Thread-Tension-Spring-Fits-Singer-Model-99K-185-206-306-319/291630242414?hash=item43e6845a6e:g:f1AAAOSw0YlfBfsn
Great video Andy It's funny how there are so many variations in those tensioners. I looked at my 1955 99K figuring it would be the same as yours but its not, it looks more like an older style than yours, yet newer than some of my other machines. Anyway.... Thanks for the video
Agreed Mark. I know there were a number of variations in the model, even in the same year. The best record I have is for the 99K-31 which is what I believe this model is based on the motor, tension and bobbin winder. They sure made it, and the Model 66 for a long time.
The 128 I named "The Trollup in the video has a twin, she arrived today. They are from 1915 and 1919, both 3/4 size machines with the "La Vencedora" decal sets. I noticed the same thing with the 128's having variations, one of these is classified a 128B and the other a 128K yet they are identical. The 1915 is made in Clydebank Scotland, with a F6612338 serial, the 1919 is G725716, I haven't figured out yet where it was manufactured. But they are identical. Spent hours again this evening looking at the Ismacs site trying to get a grasp on all these different models. Pretty interesting really.
Great instructional video Andy, thank you! I've followed your instructions and adjusted the tension spring correctly but I'm having trouble putting the thumb screw back on correctly! You didn't have any problem at all in the video. Any ideas?
You're welcome. When I have that problem it is usually due to the tips of the stud being slightly spread apart. The first thing I always try is to push a little bit harder while turning the nut slowly BACKWARD to the left. Slowly. At some point, you may feel a little click. If so then turn the nut to the right to tighten it now. That backward turning helps seat the first threads of the nut onto the stud. If that method does not help you can put a cloth piece over the stud tips and squeeze them closer together. Don't get carried away and squeeze slowly. Trying to "close the gap" a tiny amount. Then try again with the nut, first tuning left a half-turn or so trying to get that click and then normal turning to the right.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for responding so promptly - it was due to the tips of the stud being slightly spread apart. I had been tried to do the turning to the left first but after multiple tries I gave up on that. I then tried to squeeze them closer together with my left hand while turning the thumb nut with my right hand. In the end I used a pair of jewellery pliers to hold two very thin quarter inch wide pieces of ice lolly stick to protect the threads top and bottom and squeezed slightly and the nut engaged!
I’m sorry to be a pest. I received my tension assembly but it has no dial with numbers. I didn’t know because it didn’t have one .any ideas on where to buy? Also do you have a video on the bobbin winder taking apart to replace a spring? Thank you I love you videos! Easy for me to understand , at 66 I don’t get things on first run sometimes!✌️
No one I know of makes new assemblies like the one in this video. The style you bought is for the older version of the 99 and can be used on your machine I believe. When the vintage ones come up for sale on eBay they sell very quickly. I was surprised to find one today. You see by the price the rarity of finding one. www.ebay.com/i/153942246538?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
Thanks for another great video! I am still having problems with my number dial not moving smoothly. when I depress the dial and move the screw it won’t move to all the numbers smoothly. Moving just the screw it moves maybe two numbers over in either direction. It “clicks”, but seems too tight. Any ides?
Sorry, but I've never encountered this. When I could not get it to work normally I would pull it out and start over. Most of the time I found I had made error in reassembly.
Thanks so much for this video. I have a 99K machine, and am having tension problems. Unfortunately, both of my set screws are stuck. I tried WD40 but no luck. It looks like the problem with my tension is the little tension release pin is not moving when the presser foot lever is lowered. This explains a lot. Unfortunately, I can't get the tension screw stud out to clean things and find out why that pin isn't moving. Any suggestions for getting the set screws moving? I'm sure it's all gummed up in there and that's why the tension has gone awry.
If you can not loosen the front set screw to remove the stud you can clean the stud in place. Starting at @31:30 in the video I show how to dismantle the assembly parts from the front to get to the point that only the stud and release pin is left attached to the machine. On stubborn set screws, I have used heat, from a hairdryer, to help loosen them. I have also used a "tap & twist" method of tapping on the screwdriver while trying to turn the set screw. I use a 2oz brass hammer and sharp raps... tap, tap, tap quickly while turning. The jarring motion while turning can help free or "un-stick" the screw. You will hear & feel a little "snick" and then the screw turns easily. Let's say all that fails for you. Lay the machine on its back so you are looking down on the stud. Protect the black finish of your machine. I use a plastic sheet or bag. Now you can drip Krud Kutter Cleaner & degreaser or simple alcohol right down into the slot of the stud and onto the releasing pin. The liquid can run out the back of the stud and into the nose area which is why you cover the black finish to protect it. Repeated dripping of your cleaner will soften the dried-up oil and gunk. Standing the machine back up you can lift the presser bar lever and see if the pin is moving inside the stud. Once the pin starts moving you can keep dripping your cleaner inside the stud to flush out the debris. You can also push on the back end of the tension pin from inside the nose of the machine. I use a wood stick. Up to 1/16" can be sticking out and pushing it towards the front of the stud can get it moving. If the pin is stuck further inside the stud I will push the pin, from the front slot, back into the stud to get it to move. I'll use a slim screwdriver or wooded stick, like a popsicle stick (craft stick?) If the beehive spring is rusty then the pin may be rusty also. The stud is usually aluminum but the stud is always steel. If you think the pin has rusted in place you can VERY CAREFULLY drip some rust remover down into the stud from the front of the stud. Many rust removers, like alcohol, will damage the black finish so take precautions to protect the finish. I use The Must for Rust by Rustolem, but there are many brands of rust remover.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks so much for your thorough answer. I think I have the problem solved. I took a NAP! Yes, it seems the WD40 needed time to work. The screw was still a bit stubborn, but finally budged. I was able to take the entire mechanism out, and then removed each part. The tension release pin seemed okay, but wasn't moving really freely. I took it out and used a piece of heavy duty thread that I ran through the hole and pulled it back and forth a number of times. I think that friction coupled with the residual WD40 cleaned it out. The pin then moved freely. I put everything back together and set the tension as you described. The stitches look perfect now! Thanks again!
@@steffanieschaeffer679 Success! 🏆 I'll need to remember to recommend a NAP next time. Patience & persistence wins again. I'm glad you are back to sewing.
Hi Andy This video is brilliant. I just bought a 99k 157 model and have a problem with the tension regulator. Can I send a pic please? The front bit with the numbers on is missing. Help
Terri, I am not familiar with a 157 version of the 99K, sorry. I think you may have a 99K-13. That model is an earlier version and has a tension unit without a numbered dial. You set the tension by feel and results and not a number. You can download a copy of the Model 99K-13 instruction manual for the Singer website at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 The 99K in my video is the only 99K I have worked on and I have no experience with that older style of tension unit. Vintage sewing groups online, like FaceBook, may be able to advise you and you could always post up a video on your own RUclips Channel showing the machine, the tension assembly, and ask your questions about it. You see you already have a suggestion from Viewer DFTBAandDS along the lines of what I have mentioned. You'd be surprised how helpful other owners can be. Good Luck.
Than you Andy! My 99k has been stored before I bought it. The bobbin stitch is good, but it slightly peeks to the top thread. Is it the bobbin thread or top. I tried to change top tension, but no difference. Any ideas what's causing this? Thank you. Regards Ann.
Sometimes it is the needle size compared to the fabric you use. Bigger needle = a bigger hole. Lightweight fabrics should have a shorter stitch. If you feed it is a tension issue then in general terms the lower bobbin thread showing on top of the fabric means there is more needle thread tension than bobbin thread tension, so you would lower the needle thread tension. If the needle thread tension is already set fairly low, like 2 and you still get bobbin thread on top, then it is time to check the bobbin case/holder tension. If the bobbin thread tension is too low it may be b/c there is dirt/lint behind the tension spring on the bobbin case. It may be the spring tension is just set too low. Model 99K uses a class 66 bobbin holder and bobbin, and you can clean and/or adjust the tension on it easily. This is a common problem and who knows the last time the holder was cleaned or adjusted? I made a video for doing that and it may help you understand the bobbin holder and thread tension cleaning and setting: ruclips.net/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/видео.html Thanks for watching my channel, Ann, and good luck.
What a great demonstration on this style of tensioner. I was just up in arms on how to regulate my Singer. On my Singer 185k there is a small spring that sits behind the whole tensioner mechanism (inside the body of the machine) that helps pushes forward the whole unite that I need to replace do you know the name given to that spring?
Hmm.. I have the parts diagram for the 185K machine and the tension assembly system looks the same as this one. All I can think of is the "Tension Pin Release Lever" inside the body. When you lift the presser bar/foot it rocks this lever and the lever pushes on the tension releasing pin inside the tension assembly. That is what releases tension on the discs/thread. On the right side of that lever is a small pyramid or beehive sping, very small, that is attached to the lever. That spring is there to push the lever away from the pin when you lower the presser bar/foot. That way the lever will not block the tip of the pin from moving back inside the body. I've never seen the little spring for sale separately, but only the lever/ spring combination like on eBay selling used parts. You can see the end of the releasing lever with the little spring in this video at 40:15. I also have a video of replacing the releasing lever. It is on a model 457, but the parts are the same style and do the same function. ruclips.net/video/tw-Y3V_LrnA/видео.html Singer Models 99K and 185K us the same parts. The parts number for the lever itself is 33659 and Singer formally called it the TENSION RELEASING LEVER. (no pin in the name like I call it) The part number for the spring is 33660 and they called it the TENSION RELEASING LEVER SPRING.
@@andytubesewing1953 Oh boy Gracias; that's the one I'm looking for. At least I know what to look for. I went on Ebay and they have some but they include the the tension release lever which I don't feel I need. The spring in my machine is all out of shape and had no Idea of what an original one was supposed to look like. I wrote down that Part number you gave me to have it handy. I work on vintage fishing reels and have made different springs styles in the past when repairing reels. So If I can't find just the spring I'll give it a go by making one. You have saved my day bro... Sure is fun working on these Oldies by Goodies Gracias
@@seniorLu48 You are surely welcome. Yes, I figured you would only find the spring with the lever altogether. If you can make a spring or buy a similar one and modify it that is great. It is not a strong spring but just pushes back the lever away from the tension pin while the presser foot is down. It's a dinky little guy. Good Luck.
Thank you Andy- could not figure out how to assembly my tension assembly. Question- do you know if there is a coil like spring behind the assembly when you remove the whole piece from the 185k machine?
You are welcome. There is a beehive or pyramid spring inside the 185K tension unit. The parts of the 185K are almost exactly the same as a 99k, in fact, the 185K replaced the 99K. You can see the parts diagram for the 185K here at this link: www.manualslib.com/manual/153920/Singer-185.html?page=3#manual If you care to see it, here is a link to a very nice blog about the 185K at the mermaidsden: mermaidsden.com/blog/singer-185-sewing-machine You can still download a copy of the original Singer Instruction Manual for Model 185K (and others) for FREE from Singer; www.singer.com/search/support?title=185 I hope this answers your question, Cara, and thank you for watching my channel.
Thank you. The Tension, or Beehive Spring, is part #125314. Here is a seller I have used for many years, but you can check around for price + shipping: www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/upper-tension-bee-hive-spring-singer-part-125314
@@user-lm3yl3dk3z The Thread Take-Up Spring? OK. There are a couple different ones depending on the type of tension assembly on the machine. The same seller has them here: www.vintagesingerparts.com/search?q=singer+model+99+check+spring
The assembly is the same as in your video - the springs I looked at either have the end of the spring going straight across the end or have a pigtail- I need the one with just the nub that goes into the cog. Would the last one you sent be this type?
@@user-lm3yl3dk3z I made this video and worked on the machine 5 years ago. The machine was shipped to the buyer overseas 2 weeks later. I can't look at the spring other than in this video, like you. When I look at the last spring on the page I referred you to www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/new-replacement-thread-tension-spring-fits-singer-model-66-99k-with-numbered-dial?_pos=3&_sid=0432e6a84&_ss=r&variant=31805385212002 and read the description it says ""-Fits Singer models 66 (late model), 99K, 185, 192, 206K, 206W, 306K, 306W, 319 -Will not work on 99K-1 -These work with tension assembly that have a numbered dial. -Please note these are a little different than the original but do work well. original style is no longer available"" If your machine is the same as mine then you have a numbered dial. The seller says the spring is for numbered dial assemblies. It also says it is different but works and the original spring is no longer made. You can contact the seller, maybe send some pictures, and ask if the spring will work if you like. You can search for other sellers if you like. That's the best I can advise.
Hi Andy, I wonder if you could help me. I had to take apart most of the mechanism underneath the bobbin area of my new 99k. When I got it it wouldn’t move and was quite dirty. I cleaned is as there was a lot of oil and some rust in many parts, and I have been able to reassemble it by watching your videos. I also followed your tutorial to time it. Now I started trying to sew but it’s not working smoothly. It starts and does the first few stitches and then it stops “feeding” the fabric and making knots under the throat plate. I’ve played around with the upper tension and bobbin tension but I can’t seem to get it right. If I help feed the fabric by pulling “gently” it continues to sew for a little while but I keep seeing both threads on both sides. Do you have any idea of what could be wrong? When it stops feeding it just keeps braiding the threads underneath... My model is from 1945, it doesn’t have the feed regulator lever, just a silver knob and the tension assembly doesn’t have numbers, it’s a basic one with just the plates and springs. Thank you in advance!
The first thing I thought of is the condition of the rollers for the hook and feed systems. They are often in bad shape and b/c you mentioned rust, maybe even more so the chance of stiff, dry rollers on your machine. There is a very good rehab manual written by a charity that is often thought of as the "bible" for models 15,66,99, etc. It is $10 to download: www.tfsr.org/product/sewing-machine/ It covers the parts on the machine. I believe it covers the earlier models of the 99K like yours. I made a lot of videos for model 99K and you may want to glance at the title in the playlist to be sure you saw the ones for the regulator, feed, presser bar, etc. Here is the main page of the Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you. I will have a closer look at the rollers and get that manual- Sounds like it will come in handy. I will go over the playlist again to see if I may have missed something else!
Andy, I need help. I need this exact spring...Per your video at 12:17 where you talk about this spring. I have ordered 2 different times once from Amazon and once from a sewing machine repair. I cannot get them to understand the difference between a 99K spring and a 99 spring. I need that tail! Can you help me get one?
I need that tail, too! 👀 Thread Take-up Spring part no. 32758 www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replacement-Thread-Tension-Spring-Fits-Singer-Model-99K-185-206-306-319/291630242414?hash=item43e6845a6e:g:f1AAAOSw0YlfBfsn A trusted seller I've used for years, also known as Central Michigan Sewing. Thanks for watching my channel.
I have a 99k and the tension spring regulator is stuck in the head of the machine. I removed the set screw. Do i need some kind of tool to push it out from the back?
No pushing from the back (that I know of) The regulator has been in there a long time and could be stuck from dried oil. Use a little penetrating oil and let it sit then try again. I have also used a hair dryer to heat up stuck parts like this with good results. I usually try oil and then the heat if needed. It can get a little messy but the oil just wipes right up/off.
I agree. I am always impressed with the design and engineering on sewing machines. I sure could not have done it. I hope they were well paid for their work. Thanks for watching.
They are very similar. Here is my video for the tension unit on Singer Model 15-91 ruclips.net/video/5B4KAwmKdEU/видео.html and here is the complete Playlist for that model: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJftyGwzdDiWa9R6HFEACJo Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy , Nice to write to you again. As you know i was working on my 15J model and having problems with the motor belt, i since have just put in a good old elastic because i cant seem to get the right one (and that seems to work fine) to my suprise.. Other than that i have dismounted the tension unit and having a little problem with that part now, your video is very helpful but my model is a little different. I have an extra disc that goes on after that inside spring and i cant seem to put it on right.... do you have a video for that or maybe you cant help in some other way. thanks again for your help Andy. jn
This series is of a very common style Singer Tension Unit. It has a thread guard. Maybe this will help. If not you'll need to post a picture. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U
Are you asking me how to turn off Closed Captioned? That's your setting, not my video. Just click on CC at the bottom of the video to turn Captions on or off. support.google.com/youtube/answer/100078?hl=en&co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop Id Caption show on all the videos you watch then you have made that happen in your settings and you can change it back to not autoplay CC. If I am wrong about what you are asking, excuse me, and help me understand. Thanks for watching my channel though.
I don't know, Wliia. Cute is the only 99K I've worked on. There are a few versions of the model over the years but I could not tell you what year was which version and what type of tension it had.
I cannot get my tension back. I have tried several times taking it apart and replacing it. No matter what I have tried I can not get the whole unit not to turn. Ideas?
There are TWO different set screws that hold the tension stud assembly stable to keep it from turning. Watch at these times. @4:44 is a slide showing the the tension stud set screw on the housing. @ 7:28 explains the tension stud. @8:00 shows how to install the stud and assembly, and @11:10 shows how to tighten the set screw that holds the assembly. If your assembly or stud is rotating, then one or both of those screws are loose or missing. So, one set screw holds the stud stable in the housing, and the other set screw holds the housing stable in the node of the machine. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I tried again to tighten the outside set screw and was able to tighten it more I had lined up the thread slot to 11 and the wire to 3 and give it a good turn and made sure the screw in the middle was in a horizonal position. little pins in correct position and ready set go!!!!!!! Not bad for a little 79 yr old lady Thank you so much
When you lift presser foot a lever inside the nose of machine pushes on the "Tension Releasing Pin" (naillooking pin) that pushes on the indicator dial ( - | + ) that pushes on the beehive spring inside the tension assembly. That releases tension on the tension discs. With the tension released you can pull your work out from under the needle. Also, raise the foot when threading the needle so no tension on the discs and the thread can enter between the discs.
Here is what I do in this situation. I remove all the other parts that I can, so only the stud and regulator are left. I spray or dropper some penetrating oil, like WD40 or similar into the hole after removing the set screw. I will lay the machine on it's back and put some of the WD40 around the outside edge of the regulator also, trying to get some to go inside the body and around the regulator. Sometimes oil has gotten in there and dried into a hard, varnish-like substance. Next, I will heat it up by blowing hot air into the regulator with a hairdryer, trying to expand the metal and soften the old gunk. I may do this a few times over a couple of hours, heat, oil, wait, heat, oil, wait. The main thing is to not try twisting the stud very much to avoid bending it. At some point, I will tap on the edges of the regulator with the handle of a wooden or plastic screwdriver. Some good raps trying to jar it loose. One time, in desperation, I put the blade of a straight screwdriver tip into the bottom left edge of the cut-out area that the spring moves in, and tippy-tapped the screwdriver downward left and got the regulator to move. Once it moved I was able to twist it some more and gradually pull it out. I guess the most important factor is patience, remembering the regulator has been in there for decades and may take hours to get it free.
Hi Andy can I have a email to reach you please. I would like to know if you have a video on shuttle or timer of a singer video idk what is the model number though.
Hi Renee. It will be hard to help you without a model number. This may help you find it: www.singer.com/find-your-model You can also look on the bottom of vintage machines for a serial number (not on the motor) and find your serial number here to learn the model number: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html By shuttle do you mean hook, and by timer do you mean timing? Like timing the hook to the needle? I have well over 300 videos so I may have one that can help you. Link to playlists by model number: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public Link to videos: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wvideos?view_as=public My email address is available on the "ABOUT" page of my RUclips Channel. I'm willing to help you buy really need a model number of your Singer Machine. If your machine is other than SINGER then I can't really help you much. So help me help you and figure out which model you have. There is also a photo gallery of many Singer Sewing Machine Models that may help you: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_machines/
Hi, Patti. I have not worked on that type, but parts manuals show the parts and the THEORY of how the tension works are the same, so I think you could do it. Singer later added the numerated dial so the sewist could return easily to a previous tension by setting it by number. Take a look at this nice video I have on my "tension videos" favorites list. ruclips.net/video/5ftHGCfU39M/видео.html He is handling a tension unit I believe is like yours. If this does not help then let me know. Please take plenty of pictures as you go along with the removal, and you do not need to remove the base & stud unless you want to.
Keep trying! I did - my +- thing was turned backwards on the machine. and it gnawed up fabric and thread. Works great now! Took me all day, but what a great accomplishment you'll have!
As Pat said, please do not give up. You can do it. Be sure to compare the parts you have to the ones in the video as maybe yours are damaged or have been substituted. Thanks for watching my channel.
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This’d is great video Andy and very helpful. Do you happen to know If the 99k style tension assembly with the numbers will fit a 99 with the old style which has no number selector, just a thumb screw.
A nice question, but I don't know. This 99K is the only one I've ever worked on. I think it depends partially on which 99 you mean. Some of the very early ones have a much different parts list and style of parts, while "middle-aged" 99s have many of the same parts as the model in my video. I do have some parts manuals and I compared parts numbers between 99K-24 & 31 to the 99-13. The Releasing Pin Lever, Releasing Pin, and Tension Discs are the same. The Tension Stud and the "Spring Holder" that fits inside the nose are different parts numbers. It is encouraging that the Releasing Pins are the same b/c that means they are the same length which is usually a problem if they are not. The Check-Springs are different part numbers. If the tension stud fits into the Spring Holder then it may work with the old or new check spring. You may have seen this video about the old-style tension assembly ruclips.net/video/rChtDz0USSc/видео.html maybe you could watch and compare the parts to the ones in my video. You can buy an after-market numerated dial style assembly for about $10 to $15 and try it I guess.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy i will give it a try as i have one arriving today.
Pleased to say that it does fit and work fine Andy. Thank you so much for your advise.
@@cotswoldhipster7101 Good on you for giving it a try. Congratulations on your success 🏆I appreciate your sharing the question & answer in my comment section. I've pinned your comments to the top of the page for viewers to see first. Happy sewing and take care.
I just watched your 99K videos and bought the service manual for my family heirloom singer 99 from 1924
1924? Fantastic! I'll bet it is beautiful. Thanks for caring for it so well, and for watching my channel. ✨
Built in Elizabeth New Jersey in late October of 1924! Originally it had a knee controller, but it was given to my grandmother with an aftermarket pedal. Also, my mother had the wiring on the motor was redone about a decade ago since the canvas insulation on the wires was starting to come apart. The original directions have stayed intact, and they even caution the user to contact the electric company to see if you have ac or dc electricity in your home. And yes, she shows her age but is gorgeous nonetheless!
@@edith9588 What a treasure to have that machine! Thanks for keeping it and taking care of it.
@@andytubesewing1953 my pleasure! And thanks to you my bobbin tension is on point
@@edith9588 I'm very pleased to have had a small part in keeping that machine in service. You are a kind person 🙏🙏
Andy- Thank you so much for this visual and verbal explanation! You're a star!!!!!
Welcome and thanks for the nice comment ⭐✨
Thank you very much Sir I just fixed my 99k machine that's been sitting for a long time ❤
Yes, you're welcome. I'm glad you found the video and thank you for working hard to keep your machine and service and taking time to leave a nice comment
Andy, you are a lifesaver - and a treasure! Thank you for all of your time and effort to make such awesome videos. I can't tell you how many I've watched to get me out of a "pile of parts" jam!!
A great comment! Thank you for your kindness. I'm glad you found my channel.
BTW, your "pile of parts" made my morning! Thanks.
Thank you. I do waant to get the most out the closeups without the words, haha!
Thank you, I like the way you take time to explain everything. My mom bought this machine in a cabinet before I was born. When I was about 6 months I had to have a blood transfusion so mom lost it due to my hospital bills. My grandfather bought it back for her as a surprise. Before she passed she gave it to me. I'm now almost 70 and going to attempt to clean it for the first time. Thinks to people like you I believe I can do it . Thank you.
Yes, you can do it. You can get the machine running nicely then. What a fantastic story and a treasured memento for your family. Thank you for sharing that. You're really made my day and I'm happy if my videos can help you accomplish your goals 🙏
Holy Moses! I did it! After 17 tries! I had that +- thing around backwards, as it was installed that way, no wonder she gnawed fabric and thread! Once I saw that Andy had it in the opposite way of my machine - and I fixed it - she sews like a million bucks. Just bought her from a rural owner, $40, she had no room for her. She takes practically no tension at all. Cleaned, machine, cabinet, all in the garage, now time to bring her in to take place in the living room where I can sew! Many thanks Andy!!
Nicely Done, Pat! I'm happy you found my video and that's a great machine for $40! I know you will enjoy crafting & sewing with it for a partner; all the more so as you helped it to sew proper again. Enjoy that and stop by again sometime.
You are my favorite instructor for this! Thanks Andy!
Wow, thanks! I feel honored to be your favorite anything😉Thank you for watching my channel and take care.
Thank you for another great video! The old black machines are my favorite. I think they are classy looking.
Welcome and thanks for watching. This is my 1st one. I'm impressed with the quality of all these parts as I take them off the machine. So finely made in 1956.
@@andytubesewing1953 This model is THE best machine I've ever owned or used. The new ones feel like toys in comparison, and I prefer to use the simple old 99K despite its lack of fancy stitches. :)
@@RICDirector Good observation! "feel like toys" is a great description of some of the new machines I have seen. I saw some of them had only a 30 to 90-day warranty! With normal care and oiling, a model 99K can go 100 years IMO. Thank you for watching my channel.
Excellent explanation about the thread tensioner. Thread Tensor is an important part in sewing points
Thank you, and I agree. Lack of proper tension means lack of nice stitching.
Andy, I’m a fan. This video allowed me to fix a pesky upper tension annoyance by myself. After watching your video a couple of times, I wasn’t at all scared to dismantle my upper thread tension assembly, adjust it, and re-assemble it. My 99K now sews like a dream. Many MANY thanks for your clear and careful explanations.
you are welcome comments like yours really make my day and I'm glad that the videos can help you congrats on doing it yourself and learning a new skill hope to hear from you again take care.
I just got a Singer 99K at a flea market. I paid $65. It works great and needs a little love. Your videos are so helpful.
Thank you!
COngratulations, Sandra. A very strong, nice sewing machine. Thanks for keeping it in service and I appreciate your comment.
Thank you so much for this lovely and comforting video! You’ve just helped me finish altering my maid of honor dress for a wedding this weekend
Well done, Annie! I'm glad you found my video. Have a good time at the reception and take care.
Thank u Andy. I just pick up a 99 at yard sale for $10. I cleaned out bobbin area. So much lint. Then oiled real good. Runs so nice. And followed along taking apart cleaning and assembled tension assembly. U are a great teacher. Thank you.
Wow, Sue, you win the bargain of the year so far in 2021! A new motor belt costs more than that. It's such a nice model, and so strong and dependable. I'm glad you rescued it and found my channel. For those reading this, this video is part of a Playlist for model 99K and you can find all the videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
Thanks for the nice comment, Sue, and take care.
I don't know if someone has said it already (surely they have?) but the easy way to remember the difference between convex and concave is that "caves" go in... they have a hollow and you can put things in them. So if you can put something in it and it doesn't fall out then it's hollowed out like a cave and that's a "concave" side. (A teacher taught me that at school when we were learning about lenses - I've never forgotten it!) :-)
Thanks for sharing this, Megan. Someone may have said it, but it wasn't me, haha 😀 Kudo's to your teacher for that good way to remember. I doubt I'll forget it now. Take care.
Thanks so much Andy. Really informative and interesting videos. Just love you sharing all your knowledge and enthusiasm...
You are welcome, Linda. I'm glad you find them informative. You gave me my best smile today. :)
Thankyou Mr. Tube, with your help I was able to repair my 66-13. Now I need to fix the bobbin winder.
Thanks for fixing your model 66 and I'm happy if the video helped with that. Best of luck with the bobbin winder. Take care.
Dear Andy Tube, I acquired 2 of these darling machines from my mother in law and sister in law. Both in great condition. I got one all oiled and cleaned up (very little needed) and started sewing. The check spring wouldn't move when the foot was down but did move when foot was up. The tension disks were trapping the spring between disks and machine body. What to do???? Brr Brr Brr! Go to you tube. Your excellent education gave me the courage to tear it apart and start over. The tension assembly was rotated 180 so the check spring retention area was down and the whole assembly was too far into the hole in the machine body...even though the "plus-minus" pyramid spring housing was right side up. All fixed, all done, now sewing curved-edge face masks for our current Covid 19 situation. Guess what? The narrow foot and feed dogs go around curves as if on cruise control. Who knew!!!! I owe ya!
Wow, a really great story and thanks for sharing. I'm glad you found the video. BTW, my wife uses that narrow foot 95% of the time making clothes and she also loves the maneuverability. Take Care.
Wow, this video is amazing, thank you so much!! I'm working on a model 99 and this helped me figure out the correct placement of all the parts. Great explanations and step by step details!!
I appreciate your kind words, Margaret. Your Model 99 is a wonderful machine and I'm glad I could help you with it. BTW, here are my other 18 videos for that model in case you find other issues. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thaks for watching my channel. Take care.
I have a White 625 with a very similar tension setup. Watching this video helped me disassemble, clean, and reassemble my unit. Thanks so much! I’m sending a couple of photos to your email.🌼
Welcome, Susan. My understanding is that Singer bought White so many parts are similar. I looked at the pictures you sent (thank you) and your tension unit parts, except the dials, are Singer for sure. Nice to know and I should learn more about White machines. Sometimes I have trouble finding parts for vintage Singers and maybe a White model would have the same ones I could pilfer. Thanks for sharing with us. Take Care.
Thank you. I knew tensions were weong and took this tension thig apart, I just did not know how to out it back in properly. And this was the first video that came up. And it was so easy to do “fix” the problem. I need to try now to sew... Thank you for your help.. saved me headaches and money... Greeting from UK..
I'm really happy to read your comment. I'm glad you found the video and that it helped you finish the tension. I have 18 more videos about working on this model if you'd like more information or need other repairs.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
My first "Brexiteer"!! Good Luck.
Great video. Even a novice like me can take it apart and put it back together. Thank you! Now I will watch the bobbin tension and hopefully my fabric puckering will get better (along with pressure foot tension adjusting). Much appreciated!
Glad it helped! You can do it, Marya, no worries. Thanks for saving that nice machine and keeping it in service. Good luck and take care.
This was a great video! I cannot wait until you show the bobbin case area being dismantled. Thank you very much😊
Thanks very much, Rita. That bobbin area is tricky and took a while to figure out. I will be filming how to remove/replace every part except the arm shaft and forked feed connector. Stay tuned and take care.
Oh and can you suggest what to use as the red wool for oiling in the bobbin area is missing in mine? And maybe others my have the same problem as someone may have taken it out thinking it was a bunch of dust and thread pieces. I was thinking of using felt but not sure how much to stuff in. Your thoughts on this dilemma are very much appreciate. Thanks.
The Oil Pad. I used a piece of red felt cut from a spool pin. Shaped like a letter "V". .66" tall x .35: wide at the top x .10" wide at the bottom. I cut a shallow "V" notch into the top about .20" deep so one side of the notch will rest on the top of the hook and the other side of the notch will ride under the edge of the top of the hook; kind of inside the curve of the hook. The Oil Pad is screwed into the OIL PAD HOLDER which is a cone or funnel-shaped spring that screws into the side of the body of the Bobbin Case Position Bracket which has a threaded hole for the pad holder. The Position Bracket can be removed by loosening a set screw under the hook that holds the Position Bracket Hinge Stud in place. If you pull and push out the oil pad it can damage the spring hold. The pad should be twisted into the spring about 1/4" should do and then the top part can be trimmed and shaped to go above and below the hook race that the bobbin case rides on. The top of the oil pad "V" notch will oil the hook race and the bottom of the "V" will sweep the inside of the curve of the hook, below where the bobbin rides to keep lint from building up. Don't push the oil pad into the spring too far as it will bend the actual Bobbin Case Cushion Spring and change the thread gap between it and the bobbin case and cause malformation of stitches. It may be easier to remove and replace the oil pad after adding some oil to it.
Or you could watch my Bobbin Area Parts Video when it comes out.
Thank you Andy. I’ll be watching and re-watching your video. Thank you for the detailed description of how it functions. Take care😊
Too detailed I'm sure; sorry about that. I'm just too technical when writing I think. It's better I make the videos, haha. You're a diplomat to thank me for that explanation., hehe. Yes, take care.
I recently lucked upon a Precision Deluxe Model 202 with a "Dressmaker" badge on it. It has been so easy to work on. And it sews like a champ! I could easily sew tenting with this machine. Amazing.I am currently renovating the case. Stripping the wallpaper covering & replacing it with Tolex & decent handle & hardware.
Well, Aren't you having fun now? Congratulations! I had to look up Tolex to see what it is. Impressive, and I bet the case will turn out beautiful.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes Sir. The wallpaper covering on the case was great back in the 50's. Tolex is what they use on guitar amplifiers. It has a "woven" backing. Most of the vinyl at fabric stores has a fleece backing.Thank you for all your videos & your efforts in the details. Maybe I can share some pics somehow when it's complete.
I think it is a fascinating material. Perfect choice for covering the wood carry case. I always welcome it when viewers share pictures and their stories of restoration work; a restored case would be something new for me, so feel welcome to send whatever you'd like to. andytube53@gmail.com
Thank you for the instructions. I'm going to do it now!
Oh, good. Thanks for letting me know I was on the correct path, and thanks again for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, I bought the Singer 192K about a week ago and it had the spring on the tension unit all bent out of shape. It seems to be almost exactly like your 99K, and this part is for sure the same unit. I didn't see this video until I had gone to eBay and purchased a used one there. After I saw this I went back to the machine and played with the unit until I got the spring bent back to pretty close to the right shape. I would have never known what that shape would be if it weren't for your attention to detail and showing that part so well. After reinstalling it and playing with the adjustment of the shape of the spring for a while and getting all all the other parts of the unit in the right order, it seems to now be working just fine again. I won't know until I get a few other parts in for the machine in a week or so to get the machine back running to see if I have it.... but now that I understand how it works because of this video you posted.... I am very confident I can rework it and get it all adjusted right and working again. Wish I had found this video before purchasing the part on eBay. Oh well.... I sure it will come in handy some day as I am going crazy buying machines like this one. So, anyway, thank you soooo much for taking the time to explain in such great detail how to do this stuff with these very cool videos you are doing to teach us how to restore these cool old pieces of art. Without guys like you what would guys like me do... ??? lol. I just love these machines and am very hooked on fixing em.
I'm glad you found me, Hunter. It is for people like you I made my channel. I enjoy working on the machines also and now there is much more info available. Thank you for saving that 192K, and any others you work on. I have 500 more videos for vintage Singer machines on my playlist page: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public
Stop by anytime; always happy to hear from you. Take care.
its amazing some of my machines are over 100 years old. back then they did not have cnc machines they made parts the old way one by one . just look at some of those parts .
Every time I picked up the Tension Spring Regulator I was in awe. Machined from a solid cylinder of steel and just beautifully made. I don't think a Computer Numeric COntrol Milling Machine could have done it better. Then I got to the Hook ...
What a great video! I really enjoyed this because I have all of these machines and these crazy tension units are really a pain sometimes. Thanks for your help.
Thank you very much! "crazy tension" is a good description when we have problems, although I've called it much worse, haha.
I also have a 7 video series on tension that goes into fairly deep detail about it that you might enjoy
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U
Thanks for watching and best of luck with your new quilting channel!
Hi Andy. You inspired me to try my hand at restoring a vintage Singer after watching you take Coco to the spa 3 years ago. I have a 1928 99 that I am going to strip down - I mean really strip down for a repaint and re decal - but first I want to be proficient at disassembly and reassembly. I managed to replace a missing feed fork so that the stitch regulator worked, which made me proud since access to the back end is pretty much non existent. But I am having trouble getting my tension regulator just right. it is an older version of Cute but essentially the same concept and yet I can't get the tension to adjust at all - the tension releasing pin doesn't look like it is impacted when I lift the foot lever. I suspect I've got the foot lever system all out of whack since the tension system itself is pretty rudimentary. I know you did a video on the foot lever and thread take up system, but I don't think it included how to get it to interact with the tension pin. What do you suggest? These machines are just so beautiful in their craftsmanship - I think I would be entranced even if I didn't sew. Thank you for loving these machines and sharing your knowledge with us and keeping these gems from the garbage heap...they really are treasures as are you. I could watch you all day long.
You've got a real project going on there. Thanks for saving the machine. It is quite a job replacing the fork so you should feel very rewarded. The tension pin of the thread tension unit is pushed or activated by The Tension Releasing Lever that is inside the nose behind the needle & presser bars. The TPRR is moved (rocked) against the end of the Tension Releasing Pin of the tension unit by lifting the presser bar lifting lever. That pushing on the end of the pin opens a space between the tension discs so the thread has no tension. When the presser bar is lowered, the spring inside the tension unit pushes the discs together to create needle thread tension. The 99K presser bar video is here: ruclips.net/video/qFsJzJ9NH2s/видео.html I have a couple of videos about installing/replacing the TPRL on other models that would show you the general method of movement of the lever: ruclips.net/video/k9LdTvESJaM/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/O4pHwpobhe4/видео.html Those may help. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Brilliant! I will watch your videos and give it another go. TY So Much!! Hope you are well!
@@LuvNickles Good luck.
thank you for your time and knowledge.
My pleasure and thanks for the nice comment.
Absoutly a great tutorial
😊 Thanks for ending my day with a smile 🙏
Thanks I’ll try it and see if it works - appreciate your help!
goof luck.
nice vid learned a lot here 10/10
I appreciate your comment and thank you for watching
Your video is very informative, as always. Thank you!
I searched for information on the tension unit because I was trying to adjust the tension. I have not used this machine for a couple of years, but I can't recall having any problems with the stitches...could be my memory issue :/
The thread kept breaking as I sewed so I thought it was a tension issue.
I tried to adjust it but was unable to turn the regulating thumb nut at all. I was able to turn the tension indicator flange, behind the nut, but only between 0-4.
After watching your video I thought taking it apart may help. I actually had to use a spanner to remove regulating thumb nut (!) and then easily, the tension indicator flange. I then put it back together.
It was very difficult to screw the regulating thumb nut back on. I'm not sure if it's a screw threading problem or maybe it needs oiling???
Now I can turn the regulating thumb nut but it's very! stiff.
I tested sewing with this setting, but have no idea really what tension I am on, the number aligned at the top is at the 7 and the notch (?) on the nut is somewhere down to the left. I never did hear any "click" like you showed on your video.
But the stitches are perfect on a short test strip I just sewed.
Can you make any sense of my description?
I look forward to your thoughts. Thank you.
Every time I had a hard-to-turn thumb nut it was because the threads of the nut were cross-threaded to the threads of the stud. Sometimes that happened b/c the nut was not flat to the surface of the stud while screwing on, and sometimes b/c the two "prongs of the stud were "pinched toward each other or were twisted or both.
Most of the nuts are steel and many of the studs are aluminum, making the stud threads easier to cross-thread or "strip". I have used a needle nose plier to straighten the stud prongs and correct the spacing between them. The spacing should be equal from the tip to the back. If the tips are barely flared open a small amount that is OK too.
If you look at @04:15 of the video and freeze it you can see the tips of the stud prongs are flared open. It is difficult and time-consuming to try and fix damaged threads on the stud but I have done it by straightening the stud prongs and adding a drop of oil and putting the nut on very evenly and slowly back and forth several times past the bad spot.
When the threads are stripped and/or the stud prongs are bent the other pieces do not adjust properly, and the tension indicator number can be far off and the actual thread tension can be all over the place and even change right in the middle of sewing a seam.
No one makes tension studs so I try hard to repair it but I have had to buy a used one, or a whole used tension assembly, on eBay.
By the way, I have never had bad/damaged threads inside the thumb nut, but I always found them on the stud or that the stud was pinched.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you very much for your expert suggestions. I am not going to do anything for now because it's stitching beautifully. There's a project I need to finish. After that I will definitely look into the spacing in the stud (don't have needle nose pliers) and also the drop of oil.. I hope I can get it back into good working order. I will let you know how it goes. :)
The Singer 99K I found is missing the set screw on the outside of the tension assembly (to the right of the tension unit. Any idea where I could get one? Thank you so much for all your videos! They are GREAT!
I'm glad you enjoy my videos and thanks for watching my channel. That screw is called "Thread Take-Up Spring Regulator Set Screw".
It is Singer Part Number 453. It is normally extremely hard to find any "new" Singer screws b/c most of them were made in proprietary (odd) sizes so you had to go to their stores. Normally, you look for used screws on eBay, etc. but have to buy the whole part that the screw holds, like the whole tension unit in this case. Since you live under a Lucky Star ✨ ( what is that like by the way, M P??) there is one seller online that apparently has brand new 👀 #453 screws for sale for $2.99 www.sewingpartsonline.com/set-screw-singer-453.aspx Happy for you and take care.
You just saved my project. Thank you!
I'm so glad you found my video then. Very sweet of you to comment in the middle of your project. Happy sewing and good luck.
Than you, Andy, for all your great videos. I washed my 401 a following your instructions. I also separated all the cam area. Both came out nice and clean and machine is working great!! I also have a 99k but I sure messed up the take up spring on tensioner. Where can I get a replacement? Thanks ALOT Andy and I hope you're feeling better
It's very hard to find the exact spring unless it is used. This one from a respected long-time seller shows it will work.
www.ebay.com/itm/291630242414
Thanks for all your great tutorials. I have just acquired a 99K and found that the check spring is bent and wonky. Could you please help me with part number. Or .one that will be compatible with that machine (sept 1955)
Hi Carol. A 1955 model should have the numbers on the tension dial. Here are a couple of trusted (by me) vendors I have bought from that have a spring that should work for you. Compare the pictures to yours of course. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
www.ebay.com/itm/Tension-Check-Spring-For-Singer-66-99-Class-Sewing-Machine-32575/161674899440?hash=item25a4932ff0:g:kzQAAOSwcwhVL-gv
www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replacement-Thread-Tension-Spring-Fits-Singer-Model-99K-185-206-306-319/291630242414?hash=item43e6845a6e:g:f1AAAOSw0YlfBfsn
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks a lot will check.the links out. Thank you..stay safe!
No worries and good luck. Thanks for saving that model 99K. I very nice model. Strong.
Great video Andy
It's funny how there are so many variations in those tensioners.
I looked at my 1955 99K figuring it would be the same as yours but its not, it looks more like an older style than yours, yet newer than some of my other machines.
Anyway.... Thanks for the video
Agreed Mark. I know there were a number of variations in the model, even in the same year. The best record I have is for the 99K-31 which is what I believe this model is based on the motor, tension and bobbin winder. They sure made it, and the Model 66 for a long time.
The 128 I named "The Trollup in the video has a twin, she arrived today.
They are from 1915 and 1919, both 3/4 size machines with the "La Vencedora" decal sets.
I noticed the same thing with the 128's having variations, one of these is classified a 128B and the other a 128K yet they are identical.
The 1915 is made in Clydebank Scotland, with a F6612338 serial, the 1919 is G725716, I haven't figured out yet where it was manufactured.
But they are identical.
Spent hours again this evening looking at the Ismacs site trying to get a grasp on all these different models.
Pretty interesting really.
Thanks Andy 🙂
Certainly 😀Thanks for watching my channel.🙏
Great instructional video Andy, thank you! I've followed your instructions and adjusted the tension spring correctly but I'm having trouble putting the thumb screw back on correctly! You didn't have any problem at all in the video. Any ideas?
You're welcome. When I have that problem it is usually due to the tips of the stud being slightly spread apart. The first thing I always try is to push a little bit harder while turning the nut slowly BACKWARD to the left. Slowly. At some point, you may feel a little click. If so then turn the nut to the right to tighten it now. That backward turning helps seat the first threads of the nut onto the stud. If that method does not help you can put a cloth piece over the stud tips and squeeze them closer together. Don't get carried away and squeeze slowly. Trying to "close the gap" a tiny amount. Then try again with the nut, first tuning left a half-turn or so trying to get that click and then normal turning to the right.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for responding so promptly - it was due to the tips of the stud being slightly spread apart. I had been tried to do the turning to the left first but after multiple tries I gave up on that. I then tried to squeeze them closer together with my left hand while turning the thumb nut with my right hand. In the end I used a pair of jewellery pliers to hold two very thin quarter inch wide pieces of ice lolly stick to protect the threads top and bottom and squeezed slightly and the nut engaged!
@@thomasmore4468 What a creative work-around. I'm glad you were able to complete the assembly and hope the unit works well for you.
I’m sorry to be a pest. I received my tension assembly but it has no dial with numbers. I didn’t know because it didn’t have one .any ideas on where to buy? Also do you have a video on the bobbin winder taking apart to replace a spring? Thank you I love you videos! Easy for me to understand , at 66 I don’t get things on first run sometimes!✌️
No one I know of makes new assemblies like the one in this video. The style you bought is for the older version of the 99 and can be used on your machine I believe. When the vintage ones come up for sale on eBay they sell very quickly. I was surprised to find one today. You see by the price the rarity of finding one. www.ebay.com/i/153942246538?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
So informative!! Thanks!
you are welcome Stephanie nice of you to comment I'm glad you found the video
Thanks for another great video! I am still having problems with my number dial not moving smoothly. when I depress the dial and move the screw it won’t move to all the numbers smoothly. Moving just the screw it moves maybe two numbers over in either direction. It “clicks”, but seems too tight. Any ides?
Sorry, but I've never encountered this. When I could not get it to work normally I would pull it out and start over. Most of the time I found I had made error in reassembly.
. Good advice. Thank you.
Thanks so much for this video. I have a 99K machine, and am having tension problems. Unfortunately, both of my set screws are stuck. I tried WD40 but no luck. It looks like the problem with my tension is the little tension release pin is not moving when the presser foot lever is lowered. This explains a lot. Unfortunately, I can't get the tension screw stud out to clean things and find out why that pin isn't moving. Any suggestions for getting the set screws moving? I'm sure it's all gummed up in there and that's why the tension has gone awry.
If you can not loosen the front set screw to remove the stud you can clean the stud in place. Starting at @31:30 in the video I show how to dismantle the assembly parts from the front to get to the point that only the stud and release pin is left attached to the machine. On stubborn set screws, I have used heat, from a hairdryer, to help loosen them. I have also used a "tap & twist" method of tapping on the screwdriver while trying to turn the set screw. I use a 2oz brass hammer and sharp raps... tap, tap, tap quickly while turning. The jarring motion while turning can help free or "un-stick" the screw. You will hear & feel a little "snick" and then the screw turns easily. Let's say all that fails for you. Lay the machine on its back so you are looking down on the stud. Protect the black finish of your machine. I use a plastic sheet or bag. Now you can drip Krud Kutter Cleaner & degreaser or simple alcohol right down into the slot of the stud and onto the releasing pin. The liquid can run out the back of the stud and into the nose area which is why you cover the black finish to protect it. Repeated dripping of your cleaner will soften the dried-up oil and gunk. Standing the machine back up you can lift the presser bar lever and see if the pin is moving inside the stud. Once the pin starts moving you can keep dripping your cleaner inside the stud to flush out the debris. You can also push on the back end of the tension pin from inside the nose of the machine. I use a wood stick. Up to 1/16" can be sticking out and pushing it towards the front of the stud can get it moving. If the pin is stuck further inside the stud I will push the pin, from the front slot, back into the stud to get it to move. I'll use a slim screwdriver or wooded stick, like a popsicle stick (craft stick?)
If the beehive spring is rusty then the pin may be rusty also. The stud is usually aluminum but the stud is always steel. If you think the pin has rusted in place you can VERY CAREFULLY drip some rust remover down into the stud from the front of the stud. Many rust removers, like alcohol, will damage the black finish so take precautions to protect the finish. I use The Must for Rust by Rustolem, but there are many brands of rust remover.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks so much for your thorough answer. I think I have the problem solved. I took a NAP! Yes, it seems the WD40 needed time to work. The screw was still a bit stubborn, but finally budged. I was able to take the entire mechanism out, and then removed each part. The tension release pin seemed okay, but wasn't moving really freely. I took it out and used a piece of heavy duty thread that I ran through the hole and pulled it back and forth a number of times. I think that friction coupled with the residual WD40 cleaned it out. The pin then moved freely. I put everything back together and set the tension as you described. The stitches look perfect now! Thanks again!
@@steffanieschaeffer679 Success! 🏆 I'll need to remember to recommend a NAP next time. Patience & persistence wins again. I'm glad you are back to sewing.
Hi Andy
This video is brilliant.
I just bought a 99k 157 model and have a problem with the tension regulator.
Can I send a pic please?
The front bit with the numbers on is missing.
Help
I'm no expert, but are you sure a numbered dial is meant to be there? Older machines did not have it.
Terri, I am not familiar with a 157 version of the 99K, sorry. I think you may have a 99K-13. That model is an earlier version and has a tension unit without a numbered dial. You set the tension by feel and results and not a number. You can download a copy of the Model 99K-13 instruction manual for the Singer website at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99
The 99K in my video is the only 99K I have worked on and I have no experience with that older style of tension unit. Vintage sewing groups online, like FaceBook, may be able to advise you and you could always post up a video on your own RUclips Channel showing the machine, the tension assembly, and ask your questions about it. You see you already have a suggestion from Viewer DFTBAandDS along the lines of what I have mentioned. You'd be surprised how helpful other owners can be. Good Luck.
Than you Andy! My 99k has been stored before I bought it. The bobbin stitch is good, but it slightly peeks to the top thread. Is it the bobbin thread or top. I tried to change top tension, but no difference. Any ideas what's causing this?
Thank you.
Regards
Ann.
Sometimes it is the needle size compared to the fabric you use. Bigger needle = a bigger hole. Lightweight fabrics should have a shorter stitch. If you feed it is a tension issue then in general terms the lower bobbin thread showing on top of the fabric means there is more needle thread tension than bobbin thread tension, so you would lower the needle thread tension. If the needle thread tension is already set fairly low, like 2 and you still get bobbin thread on top, then it is time to check the bobbin case/holder tension. If the bobbin thread tension is too low it may be b/c there is dirt/lint behind the tension spring on the bobbin case. It may be the spring tension is just set too low. Model 99K uses a class 66 bobbin holder and bobbin, and you can clean and/or adjust the tension on it easily. This is a common problem and who knows the last time the holder was cleaned or adjusted? I made a video for doing that and it may help you understand the bobbin holder and thread tension cleaning and setting: ruclips.net/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/видео.html Thanks for watching my channel, Ann, and good luck.
What a great demonstration on this style of tensioner. I was just up in arms on how to regulate my Singer. On my Singer 185k there is a small spring that sits behind the whole tensioner mechanism (inside the body of the machine) that helps pushes forward the whole unite that I need to replace do you know the name given to that spring?
Hmm.. I have the parts diagram for the 185K machine and the tension assembly system looks the same as this one. All I can think of is the "Tension Pin Release Lever" inside the body. When you lift the presser bar/foot it rocks this lever and the lever pushes on the tension releasing pin inside the tension assembly. That is what releases tension on the discs/thread. On the right side of that lever is a small pyramid or beehive sping, very small, that is attached to the lever. That spring is there to push the lever away from the pin when you lower the presser bar/foot. That way the lever will not block the tip of the pin from moving back inside the body. I've never seen the little spring for sale separately, but only the lever/ spring combination like on eBay selling used parts.
You can see the end of the releasing lever with the little spring in this video at 40:15.
I also have a video of replacing the releasing lever. It is on a model 457, but the parts are the same style and do the same function.
ruclips.net/video/tw-Y3V_LrnA/видео.html
Singer Models 99K and 185K us the same parts. The parts number for the lever itself is 33659 and Singer formally called it the TENSION RELEASING LEVER. (no pin in the name like I call it) The part number for the spring is 33660 and they called it the TENSION RELEASING LEVER SPRING.
@@andytubesewing1953 Oh boy Gracias; that's the one I'm looking for. At least I know what to look for. I went on Ebay and they have some but they include the the tension release lever which I don't feel I need. The spring in my machine is all out of shape and had no Idea of what an original one was supposed to look like. I wrote down that Part number you gave me to have it handy.
I work on vintage fishing reels and have made different springs styles in the past when repairing reels. So If I can't find just the spring I'll give it a go by making one.
You have saved my day bro... Sure is fun working on these Oldies by Goodies Gracias
@@seniorLu48 You are surely welcome. Yes, I figured you would only find the spring with the lever altogether. If you can make a spring or buy a similar one and modify it that is great. It is not a strong spring but just pushes back the lever away from the tension pin while the presser foot is down. It's a dinky little guy. Good Luck.
Thank you Andy- could not figure out how to assembly my tension assembly.
Question- do you know if there is a coil like spring behind the assembly when you remove the whole piece from the 185k machine?
You are welcome. There is a beehive or pyramid spring inside the 185K tension unit. The parts of the 185K are almost exactly the same as a 99k, in fact, the 185K replaced the 99K. You can see the parts diagram for the 185K here at this link:
www.manualslib.com/manual/153920/Singer-185.html?page=3#manual
If you care to see it, here is a link to a very nice blog about the 185K at the mermaidsden:
mermaidsden.com/blog/singer-185-sewing-machine
You can still download a copy of the original Singer Instruction Manual for Model 185K (and others) for FREE from Singer;
www.singer.com/search/support?title=185
I hope this answers your question, Cara, and thank you for watching my channel.
Andy - appreciate your very informative video. Do you know the part number or where I can get a new tension spring? Thanks
Thank you. The Tension, or Beehive Spring, is part #125314. Here is a seller I have used for many years, but you can check around for price + shipping: www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/upper-tension-bee-hive-spring-singer-part-125314
Thanks for your quick response - I’m looking for the check tension spring.
@@user-lm3yl3dk3z The Thread Take-Up Spring? OK. There are a couple different ones depending on the type of tension assembly on the machine. The same seller has them here: www.vintagesingerparts.com/search?q=singer+model+99+check+spring
The assembly is the same as in your video - the springs I looked at either have the end of the spring going straight across the end or have a pigtail- I need the one with just the nub that goes into the cog. Would the last one you sent be this type?
@@user-lm3yl3dk3z I made this video and worked on the machine 5 years ago. The machine was shipped to the buyer overseas 2 weeks later. I can't look at the spring other than in this video, like you. When I look at the last spring on the page
I referred you to www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/new-replacement-thread-tension-spring-fits-singer-model-66-99k-with-numbered-dial?_pos=3&_sid=0432e6a84&_ss=r&variant=31805385212002 and read the description it says ""-Fits Singer models 66 (late model), 99K, 185, 192, 206K, 206W, 306K, 306W, 319 -Will not work on 99K-1 -These work with tension assembly that have a numbered dial. -Please note these are a little different than the original but do work well. original style is no longer available"" If your machine is the same as mine then you have a numbered dial. The seller says the spring is for numbered dial assemblies. It also says it is different but works and the original spring is no longer made. You can contact the seller, maybe send some pictures, and ask if the spring will work if you like. You can search for other sellers if you like. That's the best I can advise.
Hi Andy, I wonder if you could help me. I had to take apart most of the mechanism underneath the bobbin area of my new 99k. When I got it it wouldn’t move and was quite dirty. I cleaned is as there was a lot of oil and some rust in many parts, and I have been able to reassemble it by watching your videos. I also followed your tutorial to time it.
Now I started trying to sew but it’s not working smoothly. It starts and does the first few stitches and then it stops “feeding” the fabric and making knots under the throat plate. I’ve played around with the upper tension and bobbin tension but I can’t seem to get it right. If I help feed the fabric by pulling “gently” it continues to sew for a little while but I keep seeing both threads on both sides.
Do you have any idea of what could be wrong? When it stops feeding it just keeps braiding the threads underneath...
My model is from 1945, it doesn’t have the feed regulator lever, just a silver knob and the tension assembly doesn’t have numbers, it’s a basic one with just the plates and springs.
Thank you in advance!
The first thing I thought of is the condition of the rollers for the hook and feed systems. They are often in bad shape and b/c you mentioned rust, maybe even more so the chance of stiff, dry rollers on your machine. There is a very good rehab manual written by a charity that is often thought of as the "bible" for models 15,66,99, etc. It is $10 to download: www.tfsr.org/product/sewing-machine/ It covers the parts on the machine. I believe it covers the earlier models of the 99K like yours. I made a lot of videos for model 99K and you may want to glance at the title in the playlist to be sure you saw the ones for the regulator, feed, presser bar, etc. Here is the main page of the Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you. I will have a closer look at the rollers and get that manual- Sounds like it will come in handy.
I will go over the playlist again to see if I may have missed something else!
@@laurajohnson852 I think it's a good place to start. Good Luck.
Andy, I need help. I need this exact spring...Per your video at 12:17 where you talk about this spring. I have ordered 2 different times once from Amazon and once from a sewing machine repair. I cannot get them to understand the difference between a 99K spring and a 99 spring. I need that tail! Can you help me get one?
I need that tail, too! 👀 Thread Take-up Spring part no. 32758
www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replacement-Thread-Tension-Spring-Fits-Singer-Model-99K-185-206-306-319/291630242414?hash=item43e6845a6e:g:f1AAAOSw0YlfBfsn
A trusted seller I've used for years, also known as Central Michigan Sewing.
Thanks for watching my channel.
I have a 99k and the tension spring regulator is stuck in the head of the machine. I removed the set screw. Do i need some kind of tool to push it out from the back?
No pushing from the back (that I know of) The regulator has been in there a long time and could be stuck from dried oil. Use a little penetrating oil and let it sit then try again. I have also used a hair dryer to heat up stuck parts like this with good results. I usually try oil and then the heat if needed. It can get a little messy but the oil just wipes right up/off.
Who created this little complicated things "genious"
I agree. I am always impressed with the design and engineering on sewing machines. I sure could not have done it. I hope they were well paid for their work. Thanks for watching.
@@andytubesewing1953 😊😊😊
I have a 1591 is it the same is it the same Bob attention that you are on your video
They are very similar. Here is my video for the tension unit on Singer Model 15-91 ruclips.net/video/5B4KAwmKdEU/видео.html and here is the complete Playlist for that model: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJftyGwzdDiWa9R6HFEACJo Thanks for watching my channel.
bravo!
Thanks! A tricky little tension unit.
Thanks 😊
Welcome
Where can I get a new belt for a Singer 99
www.ebay.com/itm/200387344276
Hi Andy , Nice to write to you again. As you know i was working on my 15J model and having problems with the motor belt, i since have just put in a good old elastic because i cant seem to get the right one (and that seems to work fine) to my suprise.. Other than that i have dismounted the tension unit and having a little problem with that part now, your video is very helpful but my model is a little different. I have an extra disc that goes on after that inside spring and i cant seem to put it on right.... do you have a video for that or maybe you cant help in some other way. thanks again for your help Andy. jn
This series is of a very common style Singer Tension Unit. It has a thread guard. Maybe this will help. If not you'll need to post a picture.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks Andy, i will have a look at that for sure and bye the way i call mine bijou :) . Have a good day. jn
How can I get the words that print what you say as it is always in the way of what you are showing us.🤪
Are you asking me how to turn off Closed Captioned? That's your setting, not my video. Just click on CC at the bottom of the video to turn Captions on or off. support.google.com/youtube/answer/100078?hl=en&co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop
Id Caption show on all the videos you watch then you have made that happen in your settings and you can change it back to not autoplay CC. If I am wrong about what you are asking, excuse me, and help me understand. Thanks for watching my channel though.
Does the tension unit on the 1955 99- work and look the same as this?
Also are the 66 & 99 tension the same? Interchangeable? Thank you bunch!
I don't know, Wliia. Cute is the only 99K I've worked on. There are a few versions of the model over the years but I could not tell you what year was which version and what type of tension it had.
@@willablake9284 I've never worked on a model 66.
I cannot get my tension back. I have tried several times taking it apart and replacing it. No matter what I have tried I can not get the whole unit not to turn. Ideas?
There are TWO different set screws that hold the tension stud assembly stable to keep it from turning. Watch at these times. @4:44 is a slide showing the the tension stud set screw on the housing. @ 7:28 explains the tension stud. @8:00 shows how to install the stud and assembly, and @11:10 shows how to tighten the set screw that holds the assembly. If your assembly or stud is rotating, then one or both of those screws are loose or missing. So, one set screw holds the stud stable in the housing, and the other set screw holds the housing stable in the node of the machine. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I tried again to tighten the outside set screw and was able to tighten it more I had lined up the thread slot to 11 and the wire to 3 and give it a good turn and made sure the screw in the middle was in a horizonal position. little pins in correct position and ready set go!!!!!!! Not bad for a little 79 yr old lady Thank you so much
@@denashortt9405 You're the best, Dena! 🏆🌟 Thanks for not giving up on it. You made my evening with this comment, thank you.
Gd day sir, what the purpose of that naillooking pin you’ved inserted inside the main shaft?
When you lift presser foot a lever inside the nose of machine pushes on the "Tension Releasing Pin" (naillooking pin) that pushes on the indicator dial ( - | + ) that pushes on the beehive spring inside the tension assembly. That releases tension on the tension discs. With the tension released you can pull your work out from under the needle. Also, raise the foot when threading the needle so no tension on the discs and the thread can enter between the discs.
I unscrewed the tension set screw but cant get the thread take up spring regulator out? Any ideas?
Here is what I do in this situation. I remove all the other parts that I can, so only the stud and regulator are left. I spray or dropper some penetrating oil, like WD40 or similar into the hole after removing the set screw. I will lay the machine on it's back and put some of the WD40 around the outside edge of the regulator also, trying to get some to go inside the body and around the regulator. Sometimes oil has gotten in there and dried into a hard, varnish-like substance. Next, I will heat it up by blowing hot air into the regulator with a hairdryer, trying to expand the metal and soften the old gunk. I may do this a few times over a couple of hours, heat, oil, wait, heat, oil, wait. The main thing is to not try twisting the stud very much to avoid bending it. At some point, I will tap on the edges of the regulator with the handle of a wooden or plastic screwdriver. Some good raps trying to jar it loose. One time, in desperation, I put the blade of a straight screwdriver tip into the bottom left edge of the cut-out area that the spring moves in, and tippy-tapped the screwdriver downward left and got the regulator to move. Once it moved I was able to twist it some more and gradually pull it out. I guess the most important factor is patience, remembering the regulator has been in there for decades and may take hours to get it free.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much!
@@gigikeneipp5429 Sure, no worries. Good luck.
Oh and i forget , the inside sping is called the thread take up sping (just so i get points on my test ) :)
I finally got time to grade your test. 100% and a Gold Star! Nicely done and enjoyed your humor.
Hi Andy can I have a email to reach you please. I would like to know if you have a video on shuttle or timer of a singer video idk what is the model number though.
Hi Renee. It will be hard to help you without a model number. This may help you find it: www.singer.com/find-your-model
You can also look on the bottom of vintage machines for a serial number (not on the motor) and find your serial number here to learn the model number:
ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html
By shuttle do you mean hook, and by timer do you mean timing? Like timing the hook to the needle?
I have well over 300 videos so I may have one that can help you.
Link to playlists by model number: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public
Link to videos: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wvideos?view_as=public
My email address is available on the "ABOUT" page of my RUclips Channel.
I'm willing to help you buy really need a model number of your Singer Machine. If your machine is other than SINGER then I can't really help you much.
So help me help you and figure out which model you have.
There is also a photo gallery of many Singer Sewing Machine Models that may help you:
www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_machines/
So, just like turning a screw - right, tight, left, loose? ;)
yes, ↔️ more or less you've got it. 😉
My 99K is older, 1923. It doesn't have the number dial. Would I basically do it the same way as yours?
Hi, Patti. I have not worked on that type, but parts manuals show the parts and the THEORY of how the tension works are the same, so I think you could do it. Singer later added the numerated dial so the sewist could return easily to a previous tension by setting it by number. Take a look at this nice video I have on my "tension videos" favorites list. ruclips.net/video/5ftHGCfU39M/видео.html He is handling a tension unit I believe is like yours. If this does not help then let me know. Please take plenty of pictures as you go along with the removal, and you do not need to remove the base & stud unless you want to.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much!
@@SouthpawPatty My pleasure, and thanks for keeping that beautiful machine working. 1923 ..wow! almost 100 years and still going.
Thank you i tryed to fixe it but it does'nt work😁
Keep trying! I did - my +- thing was turned backwards on the machine. and it gnawed up fabric and thread. Works great now! Took me all day, but what a great accomplishment you'll have!
Great comment, Pat, and thanks for being supportive and fixing your own. The first is the hardest I think, then it makes a lot more sense. Take Care.
As Pat said, please do not give up. You can do it. Be sure to compare the parts you have to the ones in the video as maybe yours are damaged or have been substituted. Thanks for watching my channel.