Informative video as always, I have learned so much from watching your content, a question for you, I have a Singer 201k the aluminium version and it sews great, but, when finishing a stitch run and lifting the needle to remove the fabric it gathers an “extra” thread which comes from the bobbin thread not the needle thread and I have to mess about cutting threads to remove the fabric, this seems to only happen at very low speed, I have run the machine with the bobbin cover removed to keep an eye on things and at speed it does not seem to be an issue, is there an obvious reason for this problem? I have cleaned the machine and lubricated everything, but I don’t know what to adjust to cure this problem, can you offer any advice please, all the best, Baz
Welcome to Andy Tube, Baz. I do not sew except to test the machine, so when this happened to me I was very puzzled and would think I did something wrong adjusting the machine. Here is what I found, and it is according to Singer as shown in many of their Instruction Manuals. Start sewing and finish sewing with the Take-Up Lever at it's Highest Position! No kidding, that's it. Go here and download a FREE copy of the Singer Instruction manual and look on pages 17 & 18 of the manual (not the pdf page number) and it explains to do this. www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20201_201-1_201-2_201-3_201-4%20and%201200-1%20Sewing%20Machines.pdf After I read that manual for a machine I was working on I figured out why. When the Take-Up Lever is up the cycle of the hook is complete and the lockstitch is finished. If you pull out your fabric while the Take-Up Lever is down, or partially down, the hook point is still holding the needle thread or another way to say it is it is in the middle of the stitch formation. So you see a thread coming from the needle on the hook point and the same thread going back to the last stitch you made. The same thread but it looks like two. This has worked 100% for me after following the practice to start and stop sewing with the Take-Up Lever all the way up. If I end a seam and the lever is not up, I turn the handwheel towards me until it IS up, then I lift the presser foot and pull the fabric out. I am so glad you asked this b/c others will have this problem too. I can't tell you how many, bobbins, bobbin cases and even a couple of hooks that I removed and reinstalled thinking I had reassembled them wrong after cleaning, hahaha. A very good and important question, Baz. Thank you very much and see you next time I hope.
Andy, You have explained setting timing and needle position perfectly. The 'stopped' photographs showed exactly where the hook and needle should be. No other site explained it well enough. Thank you so much. My Singer 66 now sews. Regards, Robert
I watch your video about five times, just to get every little detail of what you were saying. With your help I could fix my 1910 Singer series 66 Red Eye and my Singer series 99 from 1956. Thank you so much. I have two girls and they like to sew, these will be my gift to them, thanks to you. Greetings from Florida
I sure love hearing this! We saved two machines and you are passing them on to family. What a thoughtful gift. Like a gift that keeps giving to them. Thanks for sharing that, and for watching my channel. Take Care.
I know many have expressed the same sentiment, but I can’t thank you enough for your generosity in sharing your knowledge. For context, I live in a remote mountain region in northern Panama. I have no access to sewing shops or maintenance expertise of any kind. I recently unpacked my inherited Grandmother’s 99k. She taught me to sew with it 45 years ago. But I have the luxury of owning a top of the line Pfaff embroidery machine that cost the price of a nice new car, a cover lock and serger machines and a spare Pfaff that I kept when I upgraded to a top of the line machine. So the 99k sat long forgotten, neglected and unused. However, I have just taken delivery of some gorgeous Sunbrella heavyweight outdoor fabric to re-cover all of my outdoor terrace furniture. There is a lot of it! I didn’t want to tackle such a large project with such heavy fabric on my Pfaff. Will it cope? Yes. But I don’t want to put it under such strain at the limits of its capabilities. Then I remembered my long forgotten 99k. I retrieved it from the darkest reaches of an under-stairs cupboard, I may or may not have screamed a bit when I found a dead tarantula curled up in the case and I followed all of your amazing videos to service it. It took about four days of listening, watching, learning and planning before I jumped in. It was so worth it. It now has perfect timing, the presser-bar is at the correct height, the machine is oiled and cleaned. The new motor brushes and grease will be here soon at I am now confident I can fit them and re-grease the motor. My machine purrs like a contented kitten already. The stitches are simply perfect. It’s sewn through six layers of heavy canvas like a hot knife through butter. But so much more important is the fact that this humble 99k has traveled across three continents, lived in 5 countries, spanned three generations of women and is still working like a charm. The body work and decals are still shiny and gleaming. My grandmother clearly took very good care of it, as did my mother after her. I will pass this machine to my daughter one day, along with the family archive and it will doubtless continue its life for generations. You have immeasurable helped it on its journey. Much love and gratitude to you. And my eternal thanks.
You're the best, Sarah. It's hard to explain what your comment means to me. I can't tell you the number of people who thought I must be nuts when I told them that with normal cleaning and oiling a Singer like the model 99K can easily sew for 100 years. SInger made the model 99 to be a 3/4 size "portable" version of the Model 66, but for me, it sews just like the full-size machine. I am very familiar with Sunbrella and have used it for 20 years or more (really sunny & hot in Phoenix, Arizona). I love what you have done for and with the machine and you will be rewarded for those efforts many times over. I'll admit I've been having some life happening to me for a while now, and your comment just lifted me way above it for the last few days. God Bless, thank you for saving that machine, and for watching my Andy Tube Channel.
Once again bloody well done for passing on your knowledge to new comers, any one watching please pas on what you know. We dont want any knowledge dying out, we must keep these skills alive
Andy, I just don’t know how to thank you. Your videos are life saving! Thank you for dedicating so much time and care into sharing your knowledge! You have surely saved many machines in the hands of inexperienced enthusiasts (like me) with your videos. All the best to you!
Your nice comment is all the thanks I need 😀 I love the thought that my videos have saved some machines and helped people to keep their machines in service. Thank you for working on your machine, and for watching my channel. 🙏
You are a thoughtful teacher. This information is so detailed and expertly relayed. Thank you so much for decoding the the mysteries of timing.🌱 The still pictures are a valuable aid. What a great video and important information.
Very nice comment, thank you. 🙏It helps justify the time and effort put into this video. Back in the day machine owners were taught that tension and timing could only be done at the shop and "don't ever attempt it yourself!" Too late for that now as there are no more Snger Stores around here that I can find. I was pleasantly surprised that it's not that complicated once you know the steps. Thank you for watching.
Oh my goodness, you explained this so that a non technical person like myself could understand how to set the timing on my Singer Spartan. I am assuming it is the same procedure for this wonderful machine I picked up for $20.00. My Singer repair person wanted $99 just to look at it. Hah! I think you just saved me a lot of money. Thank you soooo much.
You are welcome, Donna. I'm glad you found my channel. $99 to look at it seems overpriced, right? Anyway, you can maintain your Spartan fairly easily on your own. The Spartan (Singer Model 192) is an economy version of the 99K. Both are 3/4 size Model 66. You can download the instruction manual for the Spartan here: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/245_192.pdf Keeping with the economy idea it is only 4 pages long. You'd be better off with the instructions for the 99K which are 56 pages long: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%2099%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf If you look at the parts list/diagram for the Spartan: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/1_19999/192K3.pdf You can see it is really a copy similar to the parts list/diagram of the 99K: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/9_99999/99-31.pdf You can browse my playlist for the model 99K for a lot more informational videos as they would apply to your Spartan: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thank you for your nice comment and hope you will stop by Andy Tube again when you have time. Take Care.
Andy, you saved me again! Your video helped me replace a top gear on my first sewing machine, a singer stylist 418, and my current 99k got the timing thrown out of whack when a needle met a zipper. Thank you!
Thank you for your clear photography & explanation! This was very helpful, though the model I am working on is a 115. No marks on the needle bar, but verified that the eye of the needle is 1/16 below hook at the proper time & place. VERY helpful!
I'm glad you picked up on that. The 1/16" seems to be universal to sewing machines, so it's good to know. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
This is exactly what I needed to know, thank you soooo much! I have completely stripped down an old 1940 99k model and was hoping this info was still available instead of me trialling and erroring A LOT... So to recap... 1. the foot arm, should be 5/16" above the footplate when raised. 2. the top marker is the lowest point for the needle. 3. the bottom marker is the line up for the hook behind the needle (moving the flywheel counter clockwise - as the hand crank would rotate it). 4. the eye of the needle should be 1/16" below the hook when lined up (the bottom marker). One thing not mentioned (and this is only because I have completely stripped mine down to the bones, so will need to know I think), the "material dog" is the only element dictated to directly by the crank shaft and so I guess the needle initially being at the bottom needs to be timed against the dog being out of the way too?
I'm glad if you find the video helpful. 1. The bottom of the Presser Foot should be 5/16 inch above the needle plate when the foot is raised. 2. The top timing mark is used to set the lowest point of the needle bar. That does put the needlepoint at the lowest point also. 3. The bottom timing mark merely sets the correct height of the needlepoint so the needle thread can be captured by the hook. Setting that height does not line the needle to the hook point. With the needlepoint at that height, the hook point is moved to line up with the needlepoint by whatever means you choose. 4. Yes, when the needlepoint is set by the lower timing mark that height normally brings the eye of the needle to a point approximately 1/6 inch below the point to the hook. At that position, the needle thread forms a loop from being dragged up through the fabric. That loop is formed above the eye of the needle and level with the hook point. The "material dog", let's call it the Feed Dog as Singer named it, is timed to move the fabric and then stop while the needle has penetrated the fabric and the loop is caught. That stopping moment is to prevent the needle from bending from fabric movement. The feed system is timed by the workings of the main arm shaft, the Feed Forked Connection, and the Feed Rock Shaft. You don't need to do anything with the feed dog during timing unless you chose to have it out of the machine so you can see the needlepoint/hook point more clearly. The caveat to all of this is that your machine is 80+ years old. We'd call it a "Senior" and due to age, usage, and wear it will have its own personality. The above measurements are set at the factory when the machine is new and 80 years later we could say the measurements are "mostly" accurate and you may need to "tweak" them for optimal performance. Setting the bar heights & timing is usually done after the machine has been reassembled.
That's about as perfect a video tutorial as I could hope for. I don't have a 99 but I do have a 201 (treadle) so I'm hoping this will help. Thank you for taking the time to be so thorough!
Oh, thank y9ou very much. The gauge on the 201 is a little different and just slides on the NB. The principle of the two marks is the same; top mark NB height, the bottom mark is timing. Take a look at this video where this fellow shows how to use the marks. ruclips.net/video/x6yDaspJzQA/видео.html Let me know if you have difficulty. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for your response. The problems i had were from 2 areas. The first-I’m left handed and i was threading the needle from right to left because left to right so difficult and I couldn’t believe it really makes a difference - of course i now know better. The other was the upper thread tension. I was putting the foot down and pulling the thread by hand to get a starting point. But i was getting poor stitch quality as per the manual which i did already have. What I didn’t understand was when i put the tension mechanism on after clearing was how far to tighten the nut onto the dial. So with poor stitching, i kept tightening and tightening the nut to the dial, so much so i was sure the thread was too tight and would break. To my surprise it didn’t and i started to get a really nice stitch like all RUclips videos I’d been watching. End result, very nice working machine. Thanks so much - mark
Satisfaction and a happy ending. 👍 Nicely done. Also, thank you for helping to verify that the plastic class 66 bobbins do work in these older models. I have always found that they do, but have many who disagree with me about that. Happy sewing.
Thanks Andy, for your precise instructions on Singer 99 timing. My 66 model (same as 99 internally), keeps skipping the top stitches and making a mess of the bottom stitches. Timing is just right, except for the height of the needle bar, which I did not know how to check or adjust until I saw your video. Your guidance on this is needed and appreciated
Hi Andy , I just wanted to thank you for all the help you have given me . My 99k kept breaking thread over and over ....it would do a bit of stitching then break the thread again.i set the timing using your instructions and it all works as it should now.. the screw on the presser bar clamp did take the head off leaving the screw like a grub screw and I thought I was fkd but I tried a 3.5mm screw in and it was a perfect fit even though I’m sure the original screws are imperial . 👍🇬🇧✊🏻
You are welcome, Jim. I'm glad you found the video and your 99K is sewing again. I'm impressed you found a replacement screw; I'm seldom that lucky. It's good to know the 3.5mm screw fit there and thanks for sharing that.
@@jimmacdonald9746 Ahh, OK. Usually, I find the screws to be of a proprietary size and threads per inch, especially the older models pre-1970s. The rare times I was able to find a replacement screw at the hardware store I felt I hit the jackpot. Thanks for the info.
I appreciate the kind comment. I enjoy picking music and that song fit well. If you are interested in the 19 videos for this model, the Playlist can be found here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for making this video! I have a 1951 99k that I picked up from a thrift store. It is my first restoration project, and after cleaning I must have assembled the bobbin area wrong, and my timing was off. You video has helped solve my problem myself.
You're very welcome and thank you for rescuing that machine you saved it and it will perform well for you for many years and you did it yourself nicely done Rachel 🙂
@@andytubesewing1953 I am commenting again, hoping to get some help with the same issue. My 99k lost its timing again. I began following the instructions on this video, but we ran into a big problem: the screw to adjust the needle bar is stuck fast. We have tried oiling it and using a hair dryer. It will not budge, and I am afraid we will strip the screw if we keep trying our methods. The screw is in such a hard spot, which makes the problem worse. Do you have any suggestions? Is there another way? Thank you for your time, Rachel
@@rachelkarslake7787 So your needle bar is at the wrong height? That is why you lost your timing? Or did the hook move out of place? Did you remove/replace the NB set screw before? I have had some very stubborn screws and it is disheartening when they won't' move. I hope you are using a hollow ground screwdriver b/c that helps prevent damaging the screw. You can use penetrating oil instead of sewing machine oil. Mostly it is patience that's required. I've had to soak or 2 or 3 days, adding a little wd40 2 or 3 times per day. If the screw is that tight I wonder how the NB moved out of height. One other method that has worked it to put the screwdriver on the screw and give it a sharp hit with a hammer. I usually use a rubber mallet. You don't have much room to do that on this machine, but that sudden hit can "break free" a screw. BTW, if the screw is rusted (evidence of rust on the nose end parts) it is better to use a rust remover.
@@andytubesewing1953thank you so much for replying to me! I have no idea how it happened. I adjusted it when I first got it, and the machine has been running smooth for over a year. I could have never tightend a screw that tight! Both the hook and the needle bar were off. I adjusted the hook. The needle bar needs to be moved up, as the eye is too far past the hook. My husband tried the hammer method. I will pass on your advice tonight. Wish us luck! It is my favorite machine.
Very welcome and thank you for commenting. There are about 400 more videos on my playlist page, sorted by model number. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public Stop by again sometime, please.
I'm glad you found me, Erica. It is very hard to find anyone who will work on the vintage machines, at least anyone qualified to. You can do 99% of the repairs and maintenance on the machine and foot controller, no problem. IMO, determination is about 80% of it and you have that or you'd never have found this video. Here are all my 99K videos in a playlist in case you did not come across that: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for saving the machine, and you know where I am if needed. Good luck, and take care.
First, allow me to thank you for every single video! I appreciate your detailed and steady explanations and some times I can even work along in real time, others I pause the video. Some videos I have watched multiple times and this is one of them. Goodness I have come so far working along with you and I feel like I finally know my little 99K inside an out. But (there is always a but) I have had two issues. One is a stuck screw. I have had pretty good luck using my Singer screw driver and then a big screw driver through its handle as a wedge with all but one single screw. However, there is a second most pressing need. A fine mess i have made, I feel like. I set my needle or aligned it with the hook just like you did and tightened the screw under the machine back tight. Mine was off almost like yours. Felt pretty good about that. The height of the needle bar did need to be reset and there's the rub. The needle bar set screw on the inside of the shaft (may not be the professional name) does not come out through the little hole. The set screw head is larger than the hole. I have turned it as far left as it will go and it is flush against the inside of the hole. I have frozen everything now. The needle bar is completely frozen. My little machine is as clean as it can be, well oiled with Singer sewing machine oil and everything turned fine before I began unscrewing that set screw. First, did you set screw come out or is it set inside as well? Second, do you know what I might have done to freeze the needle bar? Thank you again for your patience and all you do.
Falling asleep here and flying by the seat of my pants, but I'm fairly sure the set screw is not meant to be taken out, only loosened. It's weird, right? If you have backed it out to the limit it is binding against the body and freezing things up. Turn the set screw back in enough to get it off the body there and you should be able to move the needle bar. @ 12:00 of this video: ruclips.net/video/C1R7SkimzPc/видео.html&index=7 Let me know and I will check back in the morning to see if that solves it or we need to troubleshoot more. Thanks so much for your kind words. Good night & good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 No matter how much or which way I turn the needle bar set screw, it only rotates one half turn and locks. It will turn either way but locks at the half. Also, no matter how much or which way I turn the needle bar set screw the needle bar does not budge either. This did work fine before I began this process. Concerned there might be thread in the bobbin area I completely took that section apart again and cleaned it. There was no thread and that did not make a difference. Is there another way I can get to the needle bar and the set screw that controls it from the inside? Turning the set screw from the hole in the shaft area does not loosen the needle bar and now is freezing up the needle bar. Ideas? Thank you in advance for considering this dilemma.
There is no other way to get to the set screw other than thru that access hole in the back of the head. If you can not screw the set screw back in it is because you have turned, or rotated, the needle bar so far that the flat spot on the needle bar that the set screw fits into has been moved away from the set screw. The set screw is not made to be removed really, only loosened. There is a small flat area near the top of the needle bar that the set screw tightens into. That is how the needle bar stays in place and does not turn left or right while sewing. Since the needle bar has turned, now the round part of the needle bar is facing the set screw and the set screw has no place to screw into. It may be possible to loosen the screw back and try to turn the needle bar so the flat place faces the set screw, then turn in the set screw. Please watch this video where I explained everything I just mentioned. ruclips.net/video/C1R7SkimzPc/видео.html Please watch the whole video before making any more changes to your machine. Good Luck.
I have my great grandmothers model 99 and there were no adjustment marks to go by. Using your video and comparing the needle locations, i was able to reset my timing.
very nicely done Joe it's what I call reverse engineered timing I'm glad that you thought about that and we're able to get it timed thanks for your comment and for watching my channel take care
Thanks. I always felt this was one of my better efforts so I appreciate your comment and helps me feel justified in the time and effort I spent. Is this the second time you made my day in the same day? Take care and thank you for watching me
Absolutely spot on Andy. It got me out of fix and I'm so grateful. I had set the hook to pick up the bobbin thread, with the needle at the bottom of its travel - hence it wasn't picking up the bobbin thread. Take care....
Andy, you seem to be my OSMG! 🤣 the hook assembly in my 185 has “play” in it and moves about quarter inch back and forth regardless of tightness of the screw. Help! Love your videos, you’re my go to to figure something out with my machines
So is that a problem? I mean it is an oscillating hook, right? I've never worked on a 185 but understand it's the same mechanics as the 66 & 99 models. If that's true here is a video about removing and replacing the whole hook if you want to see if it compares to your machine and movement: ruclips.net/video/JknRDA1rSVU/видео.html here is the19 video playlist for the 99: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z It seems I read that the 185 was the replacement for the venerable 99K and it was mostly a body style change. BTW, saying the hook assembly moves 1/4th inch "back & forth" was confusing to me, sorry. Like from top to bottom of the machine back and forth? From nose to handwheel end back and forth? Oscillating back and forth? Take a look at the hook video and see what you think.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks so much for your reply, found another video that helped! I know it's hard for a lay person to describe in a manner that's understandable. lol! All fixed and sewing like a top, thanks to your videos. about to start my 500 rehab. Many thanks
Another great video Andy Very useful information that I'll be using in the near future. Thank you for these videos. I'm working on a 15-91 right now, it's timing marks are scribed into the needle bar like you are used to.
I appreciate the comment Mark. I'm not sure why, but I like it better when the timing marks are on the needle. Just what I'm used to I guess. The system on this 99K worked just as good. Have fun with your 15-91. Take Care.
I like them on the needle bar better as well. Been repairing cases goodwill shipping damaged for the last three days, saved 3 of them so far. The bentwood White Rotary case was a real challenge, but it came out acceptable I think. Got the bobbin winder spring ordered for this 15-91, should be here in a couple days and still need to grease the gears at the motor, then I believe I'll be done with it. It goes in one of these cases I just repaired. Pretty nice little unit.
On a model like the 99K it is rare to lose the timing. If the needle bar connection vibrates enough to loosen and you have a hard needle break or jam the needle bar can slip and change height and put the timing off. Same with the crank on the hook shaft. Both those are rare. It is usually from someone working on the machine that the timing goes out. On other model with a timing belt it is more common to lose the timing after a belt slip from a jam or needle break, Thanks for watching my channel.
Excellent guide to setting the timing on a 99K, thank you Andy. Could i ask a question please? I want to do the same procedure on a Singer 275, which I thought was very similar to the 99K and the 185K. But there is no little left pointing metal 'arrow' on mine to align with the scribed lines on the needle bar-so what do I align the needle bar against please?
Model 275/285 was made in Scotland and Canada and not originally sold here in the USA. I have no records or parts list or service manual for it, sorry. If there are timing marks on the needle itself, maybe one of these videos can help: ruclips.net/video/R66oy38iNV4/видео.html or ruclips.net/video/-FezmqypK6w/видео.html
Thank you for your instruction videos on model 99. I’m having a problem on mine i can’t solve. First, it was my wife’s and not used for years but kept in it’s cabinet in the house. I clean and lubed it, runs very well, but the thread continues to break after the first stitch. I adjusted both the timing and needle height and tensions as you show. Unfortunately i only have plastic bobbins but I don’t see that as the problem. Any idea why the thread breaks - i can here it snap. I did have it sewing, but the result was not a clean stitch. The more i adjusted the tensions, no change, then the thread starting breaking again. There are times the thread gets jammed together with the bottom thread while the needle is down- that’s my best description. Any help would be much appreciated - mark
" i only have plastic bobbins but I don’t see that as the problem" maybe not, but maybe it is. When the hook grabs the needle thread it drags that thread around and over the bobbin/bobbin case to "cast it off" near 6 o'clock and the take-up lever pulls the needle thread up and out of the hook area and fabric, making the "lock stitch" The Singer Class 66 Bobbin was designed with curved sides ( or top & bottom as it sits in the bobbin case) to facilitate helping the thread pass over the bobbin and bobbin case without snagging or dragging or catching on something. Be sure you have a Singer class 66 bobbin and not something else, like a class 15 bobbin with flat sides. I mention this b/c you wrote "the thread gets jammed together with the bottom thread while the needle is down" which can be a classic sign of the wrong bobbin in the machine. Other things that can affect the thread that way are; the wrong type of needle used, needle threaded wrong, a needle inserted backward, a needle threaded backward, a needle not inserted all the way up into the needle clamp either by the user (you) or b/c there is dirt up in the needle clamp, bobbin threaded wrong, bobbin placed in the holder the wrong direction, a burr (rough edge) on the bobbin case or hook, too much tension on the bobbin case thread tension spring, ( this is kind of rare, but happens enough that I made a video ruclips.net/video/bhcsfhaBRDo/видео.html) Those are not all the possibilities, but some of the most common causes. As this is your wife's machine maybe she has the instruction manual, but if not you can download a free one here "99 sewing machine" ruclips.net/video/bhcsfhaBRDo/видео.html it has the threading info for needle and bobbin case. Don't scoff at that. My wife has sewn for over 50 years and this week asked for help b/c of skipped stitches. She had threaded the needle backward. Can you imagine the thousands of times she has threaded a needle? We all make mistakes. The common suggestion is to pull out all the thread, place a new needle, wind a new bobbin, rethread the needle and bobbin case after a good cleaning of the area and start over.
Hi Andy, love your videos they are so informative. I have a question though, when I loosen the set screw on the needle bar I cannot get the bar to move at all. Is there something that I am doing wrong? Thank you in advance
Thank you, Cheryl. It's the needle bar, not you. There is probably years of dried up oil/dirt in the connecting link that holds the screw and/or in the bushings the bar slides up and down through. When old oil dries up it can act like a varnish and practically glue stuff together. I just released a video of a stuck needle bar that I had this problem on. It's a different model but the same setup. I show how I used Krud Kutter to break down the oil and free up the needle bar. You could use penetrating oil or alcohol too. Take a look and you will see how I did it. ruclips.net/video/nqFm570Azwc/видео.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Hello Andy Tube. Thank you so much for this great video. I have an issue with my Singer Heavy Duty 4432 and would like to contact you by email so I can show with pictures what happens with my machine. The main problem is that needle hits the hook and it only happens when I test it with a piece of fabric. I set timing and is ok without touching the hook, but when I put the fabric it does. Please help me. Regards from the Dominican Republic 🇩🇴
Hi Andy, I hope that you're well? I've a slight problem with a timing issue on a Singer 99K (1936) that I have been restoring and wonder if you can guide me in the right direction? When I've come to set the bell crank hook behind the needle (lower timing mark), I have a bit of play in the mechanism. This play will allow an additional movement of the hook anti-clockwise approximately another 3 to 4mm past the needle. The play is throughout the bell crank mechanism, Pittman arm and vertical crank rod. As there are no offset cam screws to reduce this play and so the thread pick-up by the hook is a little hit and miss... , Would you have any suggestions to solve this issue or should I make an allowance for this play when setting the timing. Thanks Ken
I don't remember having that on any of the machines I worked on, but each machine is unique due to usage. In general, the mark I use is where everything is at the moment I turn the handwheel and raise the NB and the timing mark first hits the correct spot. That is the way the machine is going to work while sewing so it is where I set it. I have some adjusters manuals and other timing instructions for model 99 and I'd be happy to share them with you. If interested email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and put SINGER 99K DOCS on the subject line.
Hi Andy. My 99K needle coming so close to the hook ''bow'' that the hook slightly slopes needle on the left side and needle then rubs against the bow all the way. I think this is not OK but have no clue where to fix that . Timing is set 100% correct and machine work realy nice. But any way needle is pushed bended sligtly to the left... ??
Hey, Igor, you win the question of the week! I've never had this problem on a 99K. On other models what I found was (A) bent needle, (B) bent needle bar, (C) needle clamp dirty inside making the needle sit crooked in the holder, (D) the needle bar adjusted too close to the hook, (E) the hook moved out of place. On the 99K, A, B, & C should be looked at for sure. On most Singer machines I have adjusted the MAXIMUM distance between the hook point and needlepoint is .002 inch or less (whew! that is really close!) so if a needle bar is bent even a slight amount, well ... you get the idea. I do NOT remember there being an adjustment on the 99K for moving the needle bar towards or away from the hook. I looked over my notes and just did not find anything about that adjustment on the 99K/66 models. Likewise, no adjustment for moving the hook; it is just in place through the hook shaft bushing and that's it. I did do a video about removing and replacing the hook for cleaning, etc. If you have not seen that here is the link: ruclips.net/video/JknRDA1rSVU/видео.html In fact, I have a whole playlist for the 99K model: ttps://ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z I have to say of the 19 videos, this one was the most fun to make: ruclips.net/video/CsWvFjjmK5E/видео.html Back to your question; A, B, & C steps mentioned above is what comes to mind, and then reinstalling the hook in case it is not sitting flush on the shaft bushing. Thanks for watching my channel, Igor. Stay in touch.
Hello Andy.... hope all is well with you and yours. I recently picked up a 1910 model 66 treadle powered machine. Completely disassembled and ultrasonic cleaned and polished every piece. Reassemble all and tried to reset the hook timing. Let’s just say... I’m loosing the battle, skipped stitches etc. Seems to me the needle to too low and no adjustment I make can get the required 1/16. I’m not sure if it’s wrong needle or incorrect needle bar? Is the correct needle the 15-1 series?
Yes. Singer model 66 uses type 15x1 needles in sizes 9-11-14-16-18-19-21 as shown on the inside of the back cover of the original instruction manual from 1929 which you can download FREE at this link: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-model-66-sewing-machine-manual.pdf Here is an earlier video for timing a fellow made for timing the model 66: ruclips.net/video/2FXz-2np4Wc/видео.html I have a copy of the "Instructions for Timing and Adjusting" for model 66. You can buy it from some places online or if you email me at andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for it I will share it with you. I also have a few of the parts manuals for the different versions of model 66 that show the part and part number. That's the only way I know to tell for sure if you have the correct needle bar. You don't mention if the machine worked before you cleaned it. It is rare, IMO, to find the wrong NB on a machine, but I'm sure it happens. When timing is off on any machine I work on I find it is my error and not a machine part. I've learned a lot from all my mistakes, haha.
Andy, Please disregard above post... was able to figure this “old gal” out this am. I decided to ignore needle bar height and just set needle to hook timing as per your video instructions. 👌🏼working like a champ now!
This is a fab explanation However, the presser foot has dropped and is far too low, even with the lever lifted up. How can I sort that, please? P.S. the timing is spot on now.
This video will show you how to set the height: ruclips.net/video/qFsJzJ9NH2s/видео.html Here is a playlist of my 19 videos for model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for watching my channel and leaving a comment. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 so sorry, I should have said. It's a tan 185K. But your timing video was just right for the 99K. I have several machines - 99k, 201K, 185k, 66k, zigzag model, 221K featherwright, Frisster & Rosmann and an unknown. Just working my way through cleaning and tarting them up.
Is there a adjustment for the distance between the needle and hook? I know there is on most Zig Zag thype sewing machines, not sure on straight line stitch only.
Here is a copy of my reply to your comment about this from the other day. **** "Maybe it is not the original faceplate, but from another model. Model 99 is a 3/4 size model 66 and they share some of the same parts, so it is conceivable (to me) that you may have a model 66 faceplate. Singer models 99 and 99K were made from 1911 thru 1958 that I know of, and there were about 20 versions. Here is a list at ISMACS: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html Here are pictures of many SInger faceplates, including model 99 of which there are 6 varieties, but none as you describe: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_faceplates Maybe you can find your faceplate on that page and see what model it is from. Good luck."
I am going to use on my Bel Air presicion 900 deluxe with zig zag don't think there are no marks just have to guess, more than likely everything should be right unless something has slipped my problem believe is needle to hook clearence, have you every heard of repair manuals for Bel Air machines?
I think the 7033 was Made in Taiwan in the 1990s. It much too "new" for me to know about. The instruction manual is still available at Singer Support but I could not find access to any service manual to see the timing instructions. It is rare if there are no timing marks on the needle bar. I have heard of the marks being up top instead of in the middle of the bar, but never heard of a Singer Needle bar without the timing marks. If it was my machine I would try "backward timing" it. What I mean is I would follow any of my timing videos but get the hook in place first and then raise or lower the needle bar so the eye of the needle is 1/16 inch below the hook point. The needle bar should be started on the upstroke before you adjust the height. Hook point to needlepoint timing has been the same on most machines I have done, meaning set the needle bar height (height is known due to the timing marks) then turn the hook point in front of the needle. You'd have to set the hook directly in front of the needlepoint (because the hook being under the needle is your know location) and then adjust the height of the needle bar for the 1/16 inch that most machines are set too.
Hola, Venezuela 👀 I have never seen a model 288 but found some information about it. It seems to have an Apollo Hook System. I had a model 353 that has that system and I made videos about working on it, including a timing video. Maybe it can help you. ruclips.net/video/qMOa5QP71as/видео.html
Andy my machine (left to my by my grandmother) is a 99k 1941model. The bottom stitching is only making loops, is this a timing issue. This is my first attempt at cleaning, oiling etc.
Bless your Grandma, Angi. Having a family owned machine is usually the best it gets. When you have looping it is because of a tension imbalance between the needle thread and the bobbin thread. Your looping is on the bottom, which usually means the needle thread tension is very light or loose and the bobbin tension is pulling the needle thread down too far. (If the looping is on top then the bobbin thread tension is light or loose) There is a small chance that the bobbin thread tension is crazy tight, or the thread is not pulling off the bobbin in a normal manner, but usually, you want to start with the needle thread tension. Honestly, I feel the easiest way to check it is to totally remove the needle thread and start over, being sure you followed the correct path and you had the presser bar lifted up when you ran the thread. Follow the directions in the manual, or watch my videos. If you'd like a FREE pdf copy of the instruction manual for the 99k you can download it here: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%2099%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf I also did a video about winding the bobbin and threading the needle you may want to take a look at ruclips.net/video/Myqx7XWWquo/видео.html If you want to understand and/or clean the tension unit take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/rioRhSbog6U/видео.html Here is the link to my Series for "Cute", the Singer Model 99K. 19 videos in all: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z You liked a couple of them and may find the others helpful as you get to know your machine. If a problem comes up just leave a comment and I'll try to help. Take Care, Angi, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Bless you Andy, I will be going through the threading as well as watching the links again. 🙂 I so appreciate the time taken to answer me. Well, off I go to fix my tension. Will keep you informed. 💕
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy hope this find you well, I managed to get the tension to the point that there are no loops underneath and when I try tearing the seam is hold very fast. Does this mean I am there? Thank you for the words of encouragement and advice. The machine is still in my possession and not on the ground floor outside my apartment. 😁 Blessings from my heart to yours 💕
I think you ARE there! Congratulations, Angi, and thank you for saving and keeping that machine. Your blessings are appreciated. Hope you can visit again. Take care.
Your very kind to help. My Singer ID number is AD445296 Bobbin case looks like the video except for a bobbin pivot arm assembly to aid in removing the bobbin. This is in the way and I cannot clearly see the hook and needle relationship. I noticed the bobbin pivot arm assemble is on a shaft. I am guessing there is a small set screw to lesson so this assembly can be removed for a clear view of the hook and needle. If the bobbin pivot arm assemble cannot be taken out I can kind of see it. Is the hook tip still suppose to be directly behind the needle as shown in you video. Any help is a gift and I appreciate you dedication in teaching others.
Welcome to Andy Tube. This is video 9 of 19 videos for the model 99K. Here is the link to the playlist for this model: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z The videos cover many of the parts and mechanics of the machine. For example, here is the video for all the bobbin area parts and I think that's what you are interested in right now: ruclips.net/video/epUB-5TWQBo/видео.html Thank you for watching my channel. Good Luck.
Informative video as always, I have learned so much from watching your content, a question for you, I have a Singer 201k the aluminium version and it sews great, but, when finishing a stitch run and lifting the needle to remove the fabric it gathers an “extra” thread which comes from the bobbin thread not the needle thread and I have to mess about cutting threads to remove the fabric, this seems to only happen at very low speed, I have run the machine with the bobbin cover removed to keep an eye on things and at speed it does not seem to be an issue, is there an obvious reason for this problem? I have cleaned the machine and lubricated everything, but I don’t know what to adjust to cure this problem, can you offer any advice please, all the best, Baz
Welcome to Andy Tube, Baz. I do not sew except to test the machine, so when this happened to me I was very puzzled and would think I did something wrong adjusting the machine. Here is what I found, and it is according to Singer as shown in many of their Instruction Manuals. Start sewing and finish sewing with the Take-Up Lever at it's Highest Position! No kidding, that's it. Go here and download a FREE copy of the Singer Instruction manual and look on pages 17 & 18 of the manual (not the pdf page number) and it explains to do this. www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20201_201-1_201-2_201-3_201-4%20and%201200-1%20Sewing%20Machines.pdf
After I read that manual for a machine I was working on I figured out why. When the Take-Up Lever is up the cycle of the hook is complete and the lockstitch is finished. If you pull out your fabric while the Take-Up Lever is down, or partially down, the hook point is still holding the needle thread or another way to say it is it is in the middle of the stitch formation. So you see a thread coming from the needle on the hook point and the same thread going back to the last stitch you made. The same thread but it looks like two. This has worked 100% for me after following the practice to start and stop sewing with the Take-Up Lever all the way up. If I end a seam and the lever is not up, I turn the handwheel towards me until it IS up, then I lift the presser foot and pull the fabric out. I am so glad you asked this b/c others will have this problem too. I can't tell you how many, bobbins, bobbin cases and even a couple of hooks that I removed and reinstalled thinking I had reassembled them wrong after cleaning, hahaha. A very good and important question, Baz. Thank you very much and see you next time I hope.
Andy Tube Thank you very much 👍
welcome and hope that's all it is.
Hi Andy- I got a Spartan, and i really enjoyed you're tutorial. Thanks!
Thank you for the comment, really appreciate it.🙏
Andy, You have explained setting timing and needle position perfectly. The 'stopped' photographs showed exactly where the hook and needle should be. No other site explained it well enough. Thank you so much. My Singer 66 now sews. Regards, Robert
Thanks, Robert. I appreciate the kind comment. It helps me justify the time spent on the video. Happy sewing, and thanks for watching my channel.
I watch your video about five times, just to get every little detail of what you were saying. With your help I could fix my 1910 Singer series 66 Red Eye and my Singer series 99 from 1956. Thank you so much. I have two girls and they like to sew, these will be my gift to them, thanks to you. Greetings from Florida
I sure love hearing this! We saved two machines and you are passing them on to family. What a thoughtful gift. Like a gift that keeps giving to them. Thanks for sharing that, and for watching my channel. Take Care.
I know many have expressed the same sentiment, but I can’t thank you enough for your generosity in sharing your knowledge.
For context, I live in a remote mountain region in northern Panama. I have no access to sewing shops or maintenance expertise of any kind. I recently unpacked my inherited Grandmother’s 99k. She taught me to sew with it 45 years ago. But I have the luxury of owning a top of the line Pfaff embroidery machine that cost the price of a nice new car, a cover lock and serger machines and a spare Pfaff that I kept when I upgraded to a top of the line machine. So the 99k sat long forgotten, neglected and unused.
However, I have just taken delivery of some gorgeous Sunbrella heavyweight outdoor fabric to re-cover all of my outdoor terrace furniture. There is a lot of it! I didn’t want to tackle such a large project with such heavy fabric on my Pfaff. Will it cope? Yes. But I don’t want to put it under such strain at the limits of its capabilities.
Then I remembered my long forgotten 99k. I retrieved it from the darkest reaches of an under-stairs cupboard, I may or may not have screamed a bit when I found a dead tarantula curled up in the case and I followed all of your amazing videos to service it. It took about four days of listening, watching, learning and planning before I jumped in. It was so worth it. It now has perfect timing, the presser-bar is at the correct height, the machine is oiled and cleaned. The new motor brushes and grease will be here soon at I am now confident I can fit them and re-grease the motor.
My machine purrs like a contented kitten already. The stitches are simply perfect. It’s sewn through six layers of heavy canvas like a hot knife through butter.
But so much more important is the fact that this humble 99k has traveled across three continents, lived in 5 countries, spanned three generations of women and is still working like a charm. The body work and decals are still shiny and gleaming. My grandmother clearly took very good care of it, as did my mother after her. I will pass this machine to my daughter one day, along with the family archive and it will doubtless continue its life for generations. You have immeasurable helped it on its journey. Much love and gratitude to you. And my eternal thanks.
You're the best, Sarah. It's hard to explain what your comment means to me. I can't tell you the number of people who thought I must be nuts when I told them that with normal cleaning and oiling a Singer like the model 99K can easily sew for 100 years. SInger made the model 99 to be a 3/4 size "portable" version of the Model 66, but for me, it sews just like the full-size machine. I am very familiar with Sunbrella and have used it for 20 years or more (really sunny & hot in Phoenix, Arizona). I love what you have done for and with the machine and you will be rewarded for those efforts many times over. I'll admit I've been having some life happening to me for a while now, and your comment just lifted me way above it for the last few days. God Bless, thank you for saving that machine, and for watching my Andy Tube Channel.
This was the best tutorial! My husband and I was able to change a broken shaft and reset the timing ! Thank you so very much💜
I sure loved reading this comment 💖 Thanks for saving that worthy machine.
Once again bloody well done for passing on your knowledge to new comers, any one watching please pas on what you know. We dont want any knowledge dying out, we must keep these skills alive
I strongly agree with that!! 👍
Andy, I just don’t know how to thank you. Your videos are life saving! Thank you for dedicating so much time and care into sharing your knowledge! You have surely saved many machines in the hands of inexperienced enthusiasts (like me) with your videos. All the best to you!
Your nice comment is all the thanks I need 😀 I love the thought that my videos have saved some machines and helped people to keep their machines in service. Thank you for working on your machine, and for watching my channel. 🙏
You are a thoughtful teacher. This information is so detailed and expertly relayed. Thank you so much for decoding the the mysteries of timing.🌱 The still pictures are a valuable aid. What a great video and important information.
Very nice comment, thank you. 🙏It helps justify the time and effort put into this video. Back in the day machine owners were taught that tension and timing could only be done at the shop and "don't ever attempt it yourself!" Too late for that now as there are no more Snger Stores around here that I can find. I was pleasantly surprised that it's not that complicated once you know the steps. Thank you for watching.
Oh my goodness, you explained this so that a non technical person like myself could understand how to set the timing on my Singer Spartan. I am assuming it is the same procedure for this wonderful machine I picked up for $20.00. My Singer repair person wanted $99 just to look at it. Hah! I think you just saved me a lot of money. Thank you soooo much.
You are welcome, Donna. I'm glad you found my channel. $99 to look at it seems overpriced, right? Anyway, you can maintain your Spartan fairly easily on your own.
The Spartan (Singer Model 192) is an economy version of the 99K. Both are 3/4 size Model 66. You can download the instruction manual for the Spartan here: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/245_192.pdf
Keeping with the economy idea it is only 4 pages long. You'd be better off with the instructions for the 99K which are 56 pages long:
www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%2099%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
If you look at the parts list/diagram for the Spartan: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/1_19999/192K3.pdf
You can see it is really a copy similar to the parts list/diagram of the 99K: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/9_99999/99-31.pdf
You can browse my playlist for the model 99K for a lot more informational videos as they would apply to your Spartan:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
Thank you for your nice comment and hope you will stop by Andy Tube again when you have time. Take Care.
Andy, you saved me again!
Your video helped me replace a top gear on my first sewing machine, a singer stylist 418, and my current 99k got the timing thrown out of whack when a needle met a zipper.
Thank you!
I've got your back, Mike, but kudos to you for keeping those machines in service. Hope you are loving that 99K; what a little powerhouse. Take care.
Thank you for your clear photography & explanation!
This was very helpful, though the model I am working on is a 115. No marks on the needle bar, but verified that the eye of the needle is 1/16 below hook at the proper time & place. VERY helpful!
I'm glad you picked up on that. The 1/16" seems to be universal to sewing machines, so it's good to know. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
This is exactly what I needed to know, thank you soooo much! I have completely stripped down an old 1940 99k model and was hoping this info was still available instead of me trialling and erroring A LOT... So to recap...
1. the foot arm, should be 5/16" above the footplate when raised.
2. the top marker is the lowest point for the needle.
3. the bottom marker is the line up for the hook behind the needle (moving the flywheel counter clockwise - as the hand crank would rotate it).
4. the eye of the needle should be 1/16" below the hook when lined up (the bottom marker).
One thing not mentioned (and this is only because I have completely stripped mine down to the bones, so will need to know I think), the "material dog" is the only element dictated to directly by the crank shaft and so I guess the needle initially being at the bottom needs to be timed against the dog being out of the way too?
I'm glad if you find the video helpful.
1. The bottom of the Presser Foot should be 5/16 inch above the needle plate when the foot is raised.
2. The top timing mark is used to set the lowest point of the needle bar. That does put the needlepoint at the lowest point also.
3. The bottom timing mark merely sets the correct height of the needlepoint so the needle thread can be captured by the hook.
Setting that height does not line the needle to the hook point. With the needlepoint at that height, the hook point is moved to line
up with the needlepoint by whatever means you choose.
4. Yes, when the needlepoint is set by the lower timing mark that height normally brings the eye of the needle to a point approximately 1/6 inch below the point to the hook. At that position, the needle thread forms a loop from being dragged up through the fabric. That loop is formed above the eye of the needle and level with the hook point.
The "material dog", let's call it the Feed Dog as Singer named it, is timed to move the fabric and then stop while the needle has penetrated the fabric and the loop is caught. That stopping moment is to prevent the needle from bending from fabric movement. The feed system is timed by the workings of the main arm shaft, the Feed Forked Connection, and the Feed Rock Shaft. You don't need to do anything with the feed dog during timing unless you chose to have it out of the machine so you can see the needlepoint/hook point more clearly.
The caveat to all of this is that your machine is 80+ years old. We'd call it a "Senior" and due to age, usage, and wear it will have its own personality. The above measurements are set at the factory when the machine is new and 80 years later we could say the measurements are "mostly" accurate and you may need to "tweak" them for optimal performance.
Setting the bar heights & timing is usually done after the machine has been reassembled.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much, yes, I meant "feed dog" I couldn't remember what I'd seen it called elsewhere :-)
That's about as perfect a video tutorial as I could hope for. I don't have a 99 but I do have a 201 (treadle) so I'm hoping this will help. Thank you for taking the time to be so thorough!
Oh, thank y9ou very much. The gauge on the 201 is a little different and just slides on the NB. The principle of the two marks is the same; top mark NB height, the bottom mark is timing. Take a look at this video where this fellow shows how to use the marks. ruclips.net/video/x6yDaspJzQA/видео.html Let me know if you have difficulty. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for your response. The problems i had were from 2 areas. The first-I’m left handed and i was threading the needle from right to left because left to right so difficult and I couldn’t believe it really makes a difference - of course i now know better. The other was the upper thread tension. I was putting the foot down and pulling the thread by hand to get a starting point. But i was getting poor stitch quality as per the manual which i did already have. What I didn’t understand was when i put the tension mechanism on after clearing was how far to tighten the nut onto the dial. So with poor stitching, i kept tightening and tightening the nut to the dial, so much so i was sure the thread was too tight and would break. To my surprise it didn’t and i started to get a really nice stitch like all RUclips videos I’d been watching. End result, very nice working machine. Thanks so much - mark
Satisfaction and a happy ending. 👍 Nicely done. Also, thank you for helping to verify that the plastic class 66 bobbins do work in these older models. I have always found that they do, but have many who disagree with me about that. Happy sewing.
Thanks! Very clear instructions.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, and for keeping your machine in service.
Another excellent video. Very clear and concise instructions, make it easy to understand what and why you're doing things. Tank You.
Well, thank you also for your nice comment, and for keeping your machine in service. Good luck, Alan, and take care.
Thanks Andy, for your precise instructions on Singer 99 timing. My 66 model (same as 99 internally), keeps skipping the top stitches and making a mess of the bottom stitches. Timing is just right, except for the height of the needle bar, which I did not know how to check or adjust until I saw your video. Your guidance on this is needed and appreciated
You're welcome. I'm glad you found the video. Thanks for the sub too.
Thank you for the answer to a question I had. Now I activate my screwdrivers. 🤗
Hi Andy , I just wanted to thank you for all the help you have given me . My 99k kept breaking thread over and over ....it would do a bit of stitching then break the thread again.i set the timing using your instructions and it all works as it should now.. the screw on the presser bar clamp did take the head off leaving the screw like a grub screw and I thought I was fkd but I tried a 3.5mm screw in and it was a perfect fit even though I’m sure the original screws are imperial . 👍🇬🇧✊🏻
You are welcome, Jim. I'm glad you found the video and your 99K is sewing again. I'm impressed you found a replacement screw; I'm seldom that lucky. It's good to know the 3.5mm screw fit there and thanks for sharing that.
Andy Tube hi Andy . The 3.5mm screws are the size of screw we use for switch and socket wall plates here in the U.K. .
@@jimmacdonald9746 Ahh, OK. Usually, I find the screws to be of a proprietary size and threads per inch, especially the older models pre-1970s. The rare times I was able to find a replacement screw at the hardware store I felt I hit the jackpot. Thanks for the info.
Excellent tutorial sir. The music at the end gave me a smile also.
I appreciate the kind comment. I enjoy picking music and that song fit well. If you are interested in the 19 videos for this model, the Playlist can be found here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for making this video! I have a 1951 99k that I picked up from a thrift store. It is my first restoration project, and after cleaning I must have assembled the bobbin area wrong, and my timing was off. You video has helped solve my problem myself.
You're very welcome and thank you for rescuing that machine you saved it and it will perform well for you for many years and you did it yourself nicely done Rachel 🙂
@@andytubesewing1953 I am commenting again, hoping to get some help with the same issue. My 99k lost its timing again. I began following the instructions on this video, but we ran into a big problem: the screw to adjust the needle bar is stuck fast. We have tried oiling it and using a hair dryer. It will not budge, and I am afraid we will strip the screw if we keep trying our methods. The screw is in such a hard spot, which makes the problem worse. Do you have any suggestions? Is there another way? Thank you for your time, Rachel
@@rachelkarslake7787 So your needle bar is at the wrong height? That is why you lost your timing? Or did the hook move out of place? Did you remove/replace the NB set screw before? I have had some very stubborn screws and it is disheartening when they won't' move. I hope you are using a hollow ground screwdriver b/c that helps prevent damaging the screw. You can use penetrating oil instead of sewing machine oil. Mostly it is patience that's required. I've had to soak or 2 or 3 days, adding a little wd40 2 or 3 times per day. If the screw is that tight I wonder how the NB moved out of height.
One other method that has worked it to put the screwdriver on the screw and give it a sharp hit with a hammer. I usually use a rubber mallet. You don't have much room to do that on this machine, but that sudden hit can "break free" a screw.
BTW, if the screw is rusted (evidence of rust on the nose end parts) it is better to use a rust remover.
@@andytubesewing1953thank you so much for replying to me! I have no idea how it happened. I adjusted it when I first got it, and the machine has been running smooth for over a year. I could have never tightend a screw that tight! Both the hook and the needle bar were off. I adjusted the hook. The needle bar needs to be moved up, as the eye is too far past the hook. My husband tried the hammer method. I will pass on your advice tonight. Wish us luck! It is my favorite machine.
Andy...excellent video and a real helper to us. Thank you and can't wait to see your next video... Jim
Very welcome and thank you for commenting. There are about 400 more videos on my playlist page, sorted by model number. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public
Stop by again sometime, please.
Oh thanks so much for this invaluable information. I can’t find anyone local to help. So I must learn.
I'm glad you found me, Erica. It is very hard to find anyone who will work on the vintage machines, at least anyone qualified to. You can do 99% of the repairs and maintenance on the machine and foot controller, no problem. IMO, determination is about 80% of it and you have that or you'd never have found this video. Here are all my 99K videos in a playlist in case you did not come across that:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for saving the machine, and you know where I am if needed. Good luck, and take care.
First, allow me to thank you for every single video! I appreciate your detailed and steady explanations and some times I can even work along in real time, others I pause the video. Some videos I have watched multiple times and this is one of them. Goodness I have come so far working along with you and I feel like I finally know my little 99K inside an out. But (there is always a but) I have had two issues. One is a stuck screw. I have had pretty good luck using my Singer screw driver and then a big screw driver through its handle as a wedge with all but one single screw. However, there is a second most pressing need. A fine mess i have made, I feel like.
I set my needle or aligned it with the hook just like you did and tightened the screw under the machine back tight. Mine was off almost like yours. Felt pretty good about that.
The height of the needle bar did need to be reset and there's the rub. The needle bar set screw on the inside of the shaft (may not be the professional name) does not come out through the little hole. The set screw head is larger than the hole. I have turned it as far left as it will go and it is flush against the inside of the hole. I have frozen everything now. The needle bar is completely frozen.
My little machine is as clean as it can be, well oiled with Singer sewing machine oil and everything turned fine before I began unscrewing that set screw. First, did you set screw come out or is it set inside as well? Second, do you know what I might have done to freeze the needle bar?
Thank you again for your patience and all you do.
Falling asleep here and flying by the seat of my pants, but I'm fairly sure the set screw is not meant to be taken out, only loosened. It's weird, right? If you have backed it out to the limit it is binding against the body and freezing things up. Turn the set screw back in enough to get it off the body there and you should be able to move the needle bar. @ 12:00 of this video: ruclips.net/video/C1R7SkimzPc/видео.html&index=7
Let me know and I will check back in the morning to see if that solves it or we need to troubleshoot more. Thanks so much for your kind words. Good night & good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 No matter how much or which way I turn the needle bar set screw, it only rotates one half turn and locks. It will turn either way but locks at the half. Also, no matter how much or which way I turn the needle bar set screw the needle bar does not budge either. This did work fine before I began this process. Concerned there might be thread in the bobbin area I completely took that section apart again and cleaned it. There was no thread and that did not make a difference.
Is there another way I can get to the needle bar and the set screw that controls it from the inside? Turning the set screw from the hole in the shaft area does not loosen the needle bar and now is freezing up the needle bar. Ideas? Thank you in advance for considering this dilemma.
There is no other way to get to the set screw other than thru that access hole in the back of the head. If you can not screw the set screw back in it is because you have turned, or rotated, the needle bar so far that the flat spot on the needle bar that the set screw fits into has been moved away from the set screw. The set screw is not made to be removed really, only loosened. There is a small flat area near the top of the needle bar that the set screw tightens into. That is how the needle bar stays in place and does not turn left or right while sewing. Since the needle bar has turned, now the round part of the needle bar is facing the set screw and the set screw has no place to screw into.
It may be possible to loosen the screw back and try to turn the needle bar so the flat place faces the set screw, then turn in the set screw. Please watch this video where I explained everything I just mentioned. ruclips.net/video/C1R7SkimzPc/видео.html
Please watch the whole video before making any more changes to your machine.
Good Luck.
Just what I needed! I'll be trying this tomorrow. I'm finally starting to think I can get this 99 going.
No worries, Sandy, you can do it! 👍
Great instructional video, the pictures help tremendously!
I appreciate your nice comment and that you are keeping your machine and service. Thank you for watching my channel
I have my great grandmothers model 99 and there were no adjustment marks to go by. Using your video and comparing the needle locations, i was able to reset my timing.
very nicely done Joe it's what I call reverse engineered timing I'm glad that you thought about that and we're able to get it timed thanks for your comment and for watching my channel take care
Excellent again, Andy....!
Thanks. I always felt this was one of my better efforts so I appreciate your comment and helps me feel justified in the time and effort I spent. Is this the second time you made my day in the same day? Take care and thank you for watching me
Absolutely spot on Andy. It got me out of fix and I'm so grateful. I had set the hook to pick up the bobbin thread, with the needle at the bottom of its travel - hence it wasn't picking up the bobbin thread.
Take care....
Unique to all the slide plates on my other machines. I would have never figured this out.
@@MusicAnime4Life I appreciate you watching and thanks for the comment
Andy, you seem to be my OSMG! 🤣 the hook assembly in my 185 has “play” in it and moves about quarter inch back and forth regardless of tightness of the screw. Help! Love your videos, you’re my go to to figure something out with my machines
So is that a problem? I mean it is an oscillating hook, right? I've never worked on a 185 but understand it's the same mechanics as the 66 & 99 models. If that's true here is a video about removing and replacing the whole hook if you want to see if it compares to your machine and movement: ruclips.net/video/JknRDA1rSVU/видео.html here is the19 video playlist for the 99: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z It seems I read that the 185 was the replacement for the venerable 99K and it was mostly a body style change. BTW, saying the hook assembly moves 1/4th inch "back & forth" was confusing to me, sorry. Like from top to bottom of the machine back and forth? From nose to handwheel end back and forth? Oscillating back and forth? Take a look at the hook video and see what you think.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks so much for your reply, found another video that helped! I know it's hard for a lay person to describe in a manner that's understandable. lol! All fixed and sewing like a top, thanks to your videos. about to start my 500 rehab. Many thanks
Another great video Andy
Very useful information that I'll be using in the near future.
Thank you for these videos.
I'm working on a 15-91 right now, it's timing marks are scribed into the needle bar like you are used to.
I appreciate the comment Mark. I'm not sure why, but I like it better when the timing marks are on the needle. Just what I'm used to I guess. The system on this 99K worked just as good. Have fun with your 15-91. Take Care.
I like them on the needle bar better as well.
Been repairing cases goodwill shipping damaged for the last three days,
saved 3 of them so far.
The bentwood White Rotary case was a real challenge, but it came out acceptable I
think.
Got the bobbin winder spring ordered for this 15-91, should be here in a couple days
and still need to grease the gears at the motor, then I believe I'll be done with it.
It goes in one of these cases I just repaired.
Pretty nice little unit.
Congrats on saving some cases besides the machines. Nice Job.
Thank you for these informative vids. How does the timing get out of whack?
On a model like the 99K it is rare to lose the timing. If the needle bar connection vibrates enough to loosen and you have a hard needle break or jam the needle bar can slip and change height and put the timing off. Same with the crank on the hook shaft. Both those are rare. It is usually from someone working on the machine that the timing goes out. On other model with a timing belt it is more common to lose the timing after a belt slip from a jam or needle break, Thanks for watching my channel.
Excellent guide to setting the timing on a 99K, thank you Andy. Could i ask a question please? I want to do the same procedure on a Singer 275, which I thought was very similar to the 99K and the 185K. But there is no little left pointing metal 'arrow' on mine to align with the scribed lines on the needle bar-so what do I align the needle bar against please?
Model 275/285 was made in Scotland and Canada and not originally sold here in the USA. I have no records or parts list or service manual for it, sorry. If there are timing marks on the needle itself, maybe one of these videos can help: ruclips.net/video/R66oy38iNV4/видео.html
or ruclips.net/video/-FezmqypK6w/видео.html
Thank you for your instruction videos on model 99. I’m having a problem on mine i can’t solve. First, it was my wife’s and not used for years but kept in it’s cabinet in the house. I clean and lubed it, runs very well, but the thread continues to break after the first stitch. I adjusted both the timing and needle height and tensions as you show. Unfortunately i only have plastic bobbins but I don’t see that as the problem. Any idea why the thread breaks - i can here it snap. I did have it sewing, but the result was not a clean stitch. The more i adjusted the tensions, no change, then the thread starting breaking again. There are times the thread gets jammed together with the bottom thread while the needle is down- that’s my best description. Any help would be much appreciated - mark
" i only have plastic bobbins but I don’t see that as the problem" maybe not, but maybe it is. When the hook grabs the needle thread it drags that thread around and over the bobbin/bobbin case to "cast it off" near 6 o'clock and the take-up lever pulls the needle thread up and out of the hook area and fabric, making the "lock stitch" The Singer Class 66 Bobbin was designed with curved sides ( or top & bottom as it sits in the bobbin case) to facilitate helping the thread pass over the bobbin and bobbin case without snagging or dragging or catching on something. Be sure you have a Singer class 66 bobbin and not something else, like a class 15 bobbin with flat sides. I mention this b/c you wrote "the thread gets jammed together with the bottom thread while the needle is down" which can be a classic sign of the wrong bobbin in the machine. Other things that can affect the thread that way are; the wrong type of needle used, needle threaded wrong, a needle inserted backward, a needle threaded backward, a needle not inserted all the way up into the needle clamp either by the user (you) or b/c there is dirt up in the needle clamp, bobbin threaded wrong, bobbin placed in the holder the wrong direction, a burr (rough edge) on the bobbin case or hook, too much tension on the bobbin case thread tension spring, ( this is kind of rare, but happens enough that I made a video ruclips.net/video/bhcsfhaBRDo/видео.html) Those are not all the possibilities, but some of the most common causes. As this is your wife's machine maybe she has the instruction manual, but if not you can download a free one here "99 sewing machine" ruclips.net/video/bhcsfhaBRDo/видео.html it has the threading info for needle and bobbin case. Don't scoff at that. My wife has sewn for over 50 years and this week asked for help b/c of skipped stitches. She had threaded the needle backward. Can you imagine the thousands of times she has threaded a needle? We all make mistakes. The common suggestion is to pull out all the thread, place a new needle, wind a new bobbin, rethread the needle and bobbin case after a good cleaning of the area and start over.
Hi Andy, love your videos they are so informative. I have a question though, when I loosen the set screw on the needle bar I cannot get the bar to move at all. Is there something that I am doing wrong? Thank you in advance
Thank you, Cheryl. It's the needle bar, not you. There is probably years of dried up oil/dirt in the connecting link that holds the screw and/or in the bushings the bar slides up and down through. When old oil dries up it can act like a varnish and practically glue stuff together. I just released a video of a stuck needle bar that I had this problem on. It's a different model but the same setup. I show how I used Krud Kutter to break down the oil and free up the needle bar. You could use penetrating oil or alcohol too. Take a look and you will see how I did it.
ruclips.net/video/nqFm570Azwc/видео.html
Thanks for watching my channel.
Hello Andy Tube. Thank you so much for this great video. I have an issue with my Singer Heavy Duty 4432 and would like to contact you by email so I can show with pictures what happens with my machine. The main problem is that needle hits the hook and it only happens when I test it with a piece of fabric. I set timing and is ok without touching the hook, but when I put the fabric it does. Please help me. Regards from the Dominican Republic 🇩🇴
Welcome to Andy Tube Ramona. My business email address is on the "ABOUT" page of this RUclips Channel.
Hi Andy, I hope that you're well? I've a slight problem with a timing issue on a Singer 99K (1936) that I have been restoring and wonder if you can guide me in the right direction? When I've come to set the bell crank hook behind the needle (lower timing mark), I have a bit of play in the mechanism. This play will allow an additional movement of the hook anti-clockwise approximately another 3 to 4mm past the needle. The play is throughout the bell crank mechanism, Pittman arm and vertical crank rod. As there are no offset cam screws to reduce this play and so the thread pick-up by the hook is a little hit and miss... , Would you have any suggestions to solve this issue or should I make an allowance for this play when setting the timing. Thanks Ken
I don't remember having that on any of the machines I worked on, but each machine is unique due to usage. In general, the mark I use is where everything is at the moment I turn the handwheel and raise the NB and the timing mark first hits the correct spot. That is the way the machine is going to work while sewing so it is where I set it. I have some adjusters manuals and other timing instructions for model 99 and I'd be happy to share them with you. If interested email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and put SINGER 99K DOCS on the subject line.
Thanks! This is great
You're welcome! Nice of you to comment
Hi Andy. My 99K needle coming so close to the hook ''bow'' that the hook slightly slopes needle on the left side and needle then rubs against the bow all the way. I think this is not OK but have no clue where to fix that . Timing is set 100% correct and machine work realy nice. But any way needle is pushed bended sligtly to the left... ??
Hey, Igor, you win the question of the week! I've never had this problem on a 99K. On other models what I found was (A) bent needle, (B) bent needle bar, (C) needle clamp dirty inside making the needle sit crooked in the holder, (D) the needle bar adjusted too close to the hook, (E) the hook moved out of place. On the 99K, A, B, & C should be looked at for sure. On most Singer machines I have adjusted the MAXIMUM distance between the hook point and needlepoint is .002 inch or less (whew! that is really close!) so if a needle bar is bent even a slight amount, well ... you get the idea. I do NOT remember there being an adjustment on the 99K for moving the needle bar towards or away from the hook. I looked over my notes and just did not find anything about that adjustment on the 99K/66 models. Likewise, no adjustment for moving the hook; it is just in place through the hook shaft bushing and that's it. I did do a video about removing and replacing the hook for cleaning, etc. If you have not seen that here is the link: ruclips.net/video/JknRDA1rSVU/видео.html
In fact, I have a whole playlist for the 99K model: ttps://ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
I have to say of the 19 videos, this one was the most fun to make: ruclips.net/video/CsWvFjjmK5E/видео.html
Back to your question; A, B, & C steps mentioned above is what comes to mind, and then reinstalling the hook in case it is not sitting flush on the shaft bushing.
Thanks for watching my channel, Igor. Stay in touch.
Hello Andy.... hope all is well with you and yours.
I recently picked up a 1910 model 66 treadle powered machine. Completely disassembled and ultrasonic cleaned and polished every piece. Reassemble all and tried to reset the hook timing. Let’s just say... I’m loosing the battle, skipped stitches etc. Seems to me the needle to too low and no adjustment I make can get the required 1/16. I’m not sure if it’s wrong needle or incorrect needle bar? Is the correct needle the 15-1 series?
Yes. Singer model 66 uses type 15x1 needles in sizes 9-11-14-16-18-19-21 as shown on the inside of the back cover of the original instruction manual from 1929 which you can download FREE at this link: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-model-66-sewing-machine-manual.pdf
Here is an earlier video for timing a fellow made for timing the model 66: ruclips.net/video/2FXz-2np4Wc/видео.html
I have a copy of the "Instructions for Timing and Adjusting" for model 66. You can buy it from some places online or if you email me at andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for it I will share it with you. I also have a few of the parts manuals for the different versions of model 66 that show the part and part number. That's the only way I know to tell for sure if you have the correct needle bar.
You don't mention if the machine worked before you cleaned it. It is rare, IMO, to find the wrong NB on a machine, but I'm sure it happens. When timing is off on any machine I work on I find it is my error and not a machine part. I've learned a lot from all my mistakes, haha.
Andy,
Please disregard above post... was able to figure this “old gal” out this am. I decided to ignore needle bar height and just set needle to hook timing as per your video instructions.
👌🏼working like a champ now!
@@Irukandji01 👍
This is a fab explanation
However, the presser foot has dropped and is far too low, even with the lever lifted up. How can I sort that, please? P.S. the timing is spot on now.
This video will show you how to set the height: ruclips.net/video/qFsJzJ9NH2s/видео.html
Here is a playlist of my 19 videos for model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
Thanks for watching my channel and leaving a comment. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 so sorry, I should have said. It's a tan 185K. But your timing video was just right for the 99K. I have several machines - 99k, 201K, 185k, 66k, zigzag model, 221K featherwright, Frisster & Rosmann and an unknown. Just working my way through cleaning and tarting them up.
"...tarting them up." Haha. For your reading pleasure:
www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%2015K_66K_201K_99K_185K_327K_328K_329K%20and%20404K%20Sewing%20Machines.pdf
www.parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/66.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/66-1_66-4_66-6.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/66-8_66-14_66-18_66-24.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/66-16.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/6_6999/67A3.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/9_99999/99-13.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/9_99999/99-31.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/9_99999/99K28.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/1_19999/185.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/221-1_221K1_221K4_221K5.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/221K7.pdf
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW_221_Service_Manual_-_080615.pdf?13711830328844384808
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW_222_Service_Manual_Addendum.pdf?11836299859689189960
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW221_Adjuster_s_Manual.pdf?11836299859689189960
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/Singer-Featherweight-221-Parts.pdf?6256387824615179667
imagespast.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/singer-201-service-adjusters-manual.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/201K1_K2_K3_K4.pdf
parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/201-2_1200-1.pdf
ismacs.net/fristerandrossman/manuals/frister-and-rossman-transverse-shuttle.pdf
@@andytubesewing1953 Blinkin' blimey! That'll keep me busy. 😉. Thank so much for your help and responses.
Very helpful ! Thx!
I'm glad you found the video. Thanks for the nice comment and happy sewing
Thanks Andy, that was
Extremely helpful!👍🏼
@@NWPARetiree You're welcome I appreciate your comment
Is there a adjustment for the distance between the needle and hook? I know there is on most Zig Zag thype sewing machines, not sure on straight line stitch only.
I do not know if there is such an adjustment on this model 99K, sorry.
My 99 k or whatever it is made in Canada has a crooked nose but everything else is the same could you help me figure out what I have?
Here is a copy of my reply to your comment about this from the other day.
****
"Maybe it is not the original faceplate, but from another model. Model 99 is a 3/4 size model 66 and they share some of the same parts, so it is conceivable (to me) that you may have a model 66 faceplate. Singer models 99 and 99K were made from 1911 thru 1958 that I know of, and there were about 20 versions. Here is a list at ISMACS: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html Here are pictures of many SInger faceplates, including model 99 of which there are 6 varieties, but none as you describe: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_faceplates
Maybe you can find your faceplate on that page and see what model it is from. Good luck."
I am going to use on my Bel Air presicion 900 deluxe with zig zag don't think there are no marks just have to guess, more than likely everything should be right unless something has slipped my problem believe is needle to hook clearence, have you every heard of repair manuals for Bel Air machines?
Sorry, I know nothing about Bel Air Sewing Machines. I only do Singer. ☹
I have a Singer model 7033. How can I find propper height or placement of the needle arm if there are no timing marks on the needle arm?
I think the 7033 was Made in Taiwan in the 1990s. It much too "new" for me to know about. The instruction manual is still available at Singer Support but I could not find access to any service manual to see the timing instructions. It is rare if there are no timing marks on the needle bar. I have heard of the marks being up top instead of in the middle of the bar, but never heard of a Singer Needle bar without the timing marks. If it was my machine I would try "backward timing" it. What I mean is I would follow any of my timing videos but get the hook in place first and then raise or lower the needle bar so the eye of the needle is 1/16 inch below the hook point. The needle bar should be started on the upstroke before you adjust the height. Hook point to needlepoint timing has been the same on most machines I have done, meaning set the needle bar height (height is known due to the timing marks) then turn the hook point in front of the needle. You'd have to set the hook directly in front of the needlepoint (because the hook being under the needle is your know location) and then adjust the height of the needle bar for the 1/16 inch that most machines are set too.
hello from caracas venezuela, I have a problem with a singer mode 288, her time gone and I dont find in youtube haw to fix it. Can you help me please?
Hola, Venezuela 👀 I have never seen a model 288 but found some information about it. It seems to have an Apollo Hook System. I had a model 353 that has that system and I made videos about working on it, including a timing video. Maybe it can help you. ruclips.net/video/qMOa5QP71as/видео.html
Andy my machine (left to my by my grandmother) is a 99k 1941model. The bottom stitching is only making loops, is this a timing issue. This is my first attempt at cleaning, oiling etc.
Bless your Grandma, Angi. Having a family owned machine is usually the best it gets. When you have looping it is because of a tension imbalance between the needle thread and the bobbin thread. Your looping is on the bottom, which usually means the needle thread tension is very light or loose and the bobbin tension is pulling the needle thread down too far.
(If the looping is on top then the bobbin thread tension is light or loose) There is a small chance that the bobbin thread tension is crazy tight, or the thread is not pulling off the bobbin in a normal manner, but usually, you want to start with the needle thread tension. Honestly, I feel the easiest way to check it is to totally remove the needle thread and start over, being sure you followed the correct path and you had the presser bar lifted up when you ran the thread. Follow the directions in the manual, or watch my videos. If you'd like a FREE pdf copy of the instruction manual for the 99k you can download it here: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%2099%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
I also did a video about winding the bobbin and threading the needle you may want to take a look at ruclips.net/video/Myqx7XWWquo/видео.html
If you want to understand and/or clean the tension unit take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/rioRhSbog6U/видео.html
Here is the link to my Series for "Cute", the Singer Model 99K. 19 videos in all: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
You liked a couple of them and may find the others helpful as you get to know your machine.
If a problem comes up just leave a comment and I'll try to help. Take Care, Angi, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Bless you Andy, I will be going through the threading as well as watching the links again. 🙂 I so appreciate the time taken to answer me. Well, off I go to fix my tension. Will keep you informed. 💕
Best fo Luck and I know you can do it!
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy hope this find you well, I managed to get the tension to the point that there are no loops underneath and when I try tearing the seam is hold very fast. Does this mean I am there? Thank you for the words of encouragement and advice. The machine is still in my possession and not on the ground floor outside my apartment. 😁 Blessings from my heart to yours 💕
I think you ARE there! Congratulations, Angi, and thank you for saving and keeping that machine. Your blessings are appreciated. Hope you can visit again. Take care.
Is this the same on a 66?
Yes. Singer model 99 is a 3/4 size model 66.
Your very kind to help. My Singer ID number is AD445296 Bobbin case looks like the video except for a bobbin pivot arm assembly to aid in removing the bobbin. This is in the way and I cannot clearly see the hook and needle relationship. I noticed the bobbin pivot arm assemble is on a shaft. I am guessing there is a small set screw to lesson so this assembly can be removed for a clear view of the hook and needle. If the bobbin pivot arm assemble cannot be taken out I can kind of see it. Is the hook tip still suppose to be directly behind the needle as shown in you video.
Any help is a gift and I appreciate you dedication in teaching others.
Welcome to Andy Tube. This is video 9 of 19 videos for the model 99K. Here is the link to the playlist for this model:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
The videos cover many of the parts and mechanics of the machine. For example, here is the video for all the bobbin area parts and I think that's what you are interested in right now: ruclips.net/video/epUB-5TWQBo/видео.html
Thank you for watching my channel. Good Luck.
Please help. Blessings from mine to yours.
thank you
Hi Andy. May I have your email add pls. It isnt on your About tab. Thanks.
Not sure why the email is not show ing to you, sorry. andytube53@gmail.com