Awesome video, I am 66 years old, and have just started to take old pre 1950 singers apart. There are hundreds of singer videos on youtube, Yours is about the best and most instructive on here. Thank you for the time you take to teach us new comers
What a great comment and you are welcome for the videos, but thank you for your new interest and saving some of these wonderful vintage Singer Machines. Most of my videos are of machines made between 1950 and 1980. I hope you will take a look at some of those models too and see the changes Singer made over the years. Welcome to Andy Tube, Paul, and thanks for watching.
You are an artist. You are thorough, neat, patient and a student of the machine. I've seen guys in a frenzy yanking parts off and slinging them in a pan. I like your approach....what a great video.
Thank you so much for putting this video together! I'm new to vintage machines, and just got a 1926 model 99 for $20, and I'm trying to get it fixed up. This is so helpful. I'm sure I'll end up watching all of your series.
Very welcome! I'm glad you found my channel and the 99K playlist. You can do all the maintenance and repairs on your machine, no worries. What a bargain for such a strong machine! Good Luck and take care.
I would never have known what this part looked like or what I needed until I watched your video and saw the part with my own eyes. Also, you were so quick to respond to my question. Thank you!
Came back to say *THANK YOU* for this video. It was invaluable in repairing the 1928 99-13 that had gotten jammed this morning. It was plugged in improperly causing it to runaway and jam the bobbin plate up with the hook race.
Was cleaning and oiling my 99K today and was baffled by the feed dog as well, until I came back to watch this video👍 I didnt disassemble everything because the machine works great as it is. I love this beauty! Thanks Andy 👍
One Singer man I met called the 99K the "Might Might" of partable machines. An apt title for sure. Yes, no need to remove parts that are working and adjusting wee except maybe for cleaning in some cases. People ask me frequently "must I take it all apart as you did?" Heck no! I only do that for people who need or want to take the part off.
congrats on your "new" model 99. A treasure. Here are all 21 of my Model 99 videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thank you for keeping it in service, and happy sewing.
Thank You Andy for taking extra time & effort to really get a good view to show all hidden parts from this complex Machine mechanism !! Cool Engineering !and also...Great Tips not to break the sliding Plate parts~!! :-)
It's a great model. 3/4 size little sister of model 66 but with all the power. You may be interested in my other 19 videos for this model. They are in this Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z If you have any questions you know where I am. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Hey Andy! I'm loving this video! I have an old 99 that a friend of mine gave me and while I was cleaning her up I stumbled upon the red felt and thought it was a piece of cloth jammed in the works and I started ripping it out! LOL! I also was looking at the manual online as saw that latch area which Singer warned should never ever be moved! So I'm sitting here amazed that you're doing all of that and more!
Glad you found this. Yep, the 99 is a 3/4 size 66. My first ever black painted Singer so I had to I had to learn about it somehow, hehe. Bent the spring holder for the red felt right away. Oh well, no omelets without breaking eggs, right? Thanks for commenting.
Once again you save me from myself Andy. I have a singer 457 And I got some fabric jammed into the bobbin casing. I couldn’t figure out how to get the bobbin cover off So I could see to use some tweezers to gently pull out the fabric. Even though it’s a very different machine this showed me how easy it was to take that bobbin cover off. Thanks Andy!
You're welcome, and thanks for restoring that machine! Hope you find it fun and rewarding and it becomes the first of many. My Playlist page has many restoration videos (500+) in playlists by the model number if you are ever interested in another model to restore. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists Thank you for watching my channel and best of luck.
I’ve watched several of your videos that have helped me begin the restoration process of a singer 66-16 which is very similar to the 99k model. I can’t thank you enough for your informative videos of vintage sewing machines. I’m upgrading the electrical components too, due to crusty wires. Although my machine has been unused for several decades, it seems to be in good condition. Once the restoration process is completed in the next wk or so, I’m hoping it works. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Glad to help! The model 99 is a 3/4 size model 66 so you are correct they have the same type mechanics. Thank you for rescuing that machine and good luck.
Andy Tube You have no idea how many people will be able to use their vintage machines now that there are RUclips videos like yours available. The original manuals don’t do the machines the justice they deserve. I’ll now be able to help others who were in a similar situation like me.
Thanks for this video. It worked perfect for my 99. Just picked up a Singer 185J from the owner who said it wasn't working properly. I noticed that there was plenty of thread and lint in this area and stuck on feed dogs and that also that the positioning finger screw was loose and that there was no felt in the spring at all. I can configure felt to put in there, but how to adjust the positioning finger that must not be touched readjusted and that thread clearance to be functional again?
There is nothing specific about it in any manual I could find. There are two screws on the Latch. I loosened the screw closest to the front of the machine (towards me while looking from the end) and that allowed a little movement b/c the back or far screw allowed the latch to swivel. I just placed the tip of the Singer Tension Screw Driver in between and tightened the front screw. That gave me a little gap where I had no gap before. I could not tell you the exact size of the gap. I just eye-balled it and it was good in the sewing test.
You're welcome! It is very puzzling cuz it's so different than other singer models that I've done. I'm glad you found the video and thanks for the nice comment
Thanks Andy , I've been trying to pull the bobbin thread up but couldn't. The parts were moving but when I followed your instructions I realized they were caked with old oil making the thread stick to it . Thanks man
Andy, thank you again. Second time this week! Thought I would have to take the machine in to the shop. All because the feed dogs had shifted down a bit. Watched your video. Took apart the bobbin and cleaned it, and adjusted the food dog and works perfectly! Thank you!!
This was an awesome video. How wonderful of you to share every step of the way. We are cleaning up a 1910 Singer treadle for a very good friend. It’s been in her family all these years but needs some TLC. We knew the bobbin area needed a good cleaning but we’re afraid to tackle it. I think now we have the confidence to go ahead thanks to you! 🙏🏻👍🏻
Such a nice project you have there. Good on you, and I know your friend will appreciate your efforts. It's always special to have a family owned machine like that. Good luck.
Thank you for your time in showing us so many things. I picked up a 99k , at the dump today and it is in excellent condition, BUT, I like to tinker and clean up any machine I get. So there is a wad of pink threads or fabric wedged to the right by that ejector thing and the only way i think i can get at it is by removing and cleaning the whole bobbin case. I think I pretty much understand that swivel thing so I will give it all a try! What have I got to lose? I can always come back and watch you again! Thanks so much. Suzanne
great video for seeing what is actually going on in there, the only thing I noticed is you seem to have way too much slack between the bobbin case & the bobbin case bracket making a clacking noise. if you loosen screw the screw on the bobbin case bracket (the one you move to the right to remove the bobbin case & left to lock it in) the screw they tell you never to remove, you can adjust the distance between the heel of the bobbin case & the cushion spring on the bracket with it in the bracket latch in the locked position & the bobbin case pulled fully left over the race for a gap of .010 to .015 of an inch between the heel & the cushion spring then tighten the screw down again, you can just pull the bobbin case fully to the left & measure the gap with a feeler gauge to see if it needs adjusting .
Thank you for sharing the measurement for the Thread Clearance for this model. Nice of you to comment. For viewers unfamiliar with the Thread Clearance, this video for model 404 will give you an idea of setting the "gap" between the bobbin case and cushion spring: ruclips.net/video/OXKqZp87eN4/видео.html Hope to hear from you again, Roger.
Thank you so much for your detailed videos. You are so generous to share your knowledge and experience. I was given a 99k and had it serviced before using it but what a waste of money as it wasn't sewing well when it came back. Since then I've freed up the stitch length knob which was stuck, cleaned the bobbin race which hadn't been done for many years I suspect and reset the hook timing and needle bar height. It seems to be working just fine now and sews through leather easily. The only thing I haven't been able to fix is disengaging the needle mechanism when winding a bobbin. Turning the little silver wheel doesn't seem to do anything but it's not a big deal.
You are welcome, Rebecca. Congratulations on repairing your own machine. Nicely done! I made my channel for people like you who just want to fix their machine and sew on it. Thank you for saving that 99K. The stop motion clamp washer is probably installed incorrectly. A very common problem, and easy to fix. It may need to be turned 180 degrees, or it may be on backward. This video is about the handwheel and bobbin winder: ruclips.net/video/kN2QLYxZNv4/видео.html and at about 33:50 I show and explain about putting the clamp washer back on the machine correctly. It will take just a couple minutes to check it and 1 minute to fix it. I know you can do this and if it is not that then let me know and we will continue to troubleshoot the problem until fixed. Good Luck, and thanks so much for watching my channel.
Thank you again Andy. I've taken off the little silver wheel thingy, turned the washer half a turn and replaced it and it now disengages the needle like its supposed to. You are my hero!
Hey Andy, I found a 192k this weekend. I’ll be cleaning it up and oiling it but it looks like it’s in pretty good shape. I was wondering what the red felt was and started trying to pull it out then I started thinking it was there for a reason and not a clump of crud…lol. I’ll be watching your playlist for the 99k. I can’t wait to try it out. I hear the motor is pretty much all that! Take care and thanks for all your help.
I've never seen one in person, but the manual shows it is a Spartan Version. It looks great. Oh yeah, you'll like the motor for sure. The whole machine actually. Happy exploring.
I have been working on an older 66, today I overhauled the rotating hook area....took everything out but the hook....I am not ready to fiddle with the timing just yet, am going to check it 1st and see if it is in time or not . I needed this video to see how to install the bobbin area parts....Thanks....
Thanks for the video Andy, Very usefull. Only thing is, I have a 99k what dosnt have the pin holding the bobbin assembly in. It unscrews from the top. Looking at yours, you have a screw and a pin visable from the top, I only have a screw. Just thought I'd mention it as I spent a good 10 min trying to get the screw out with a punch. Fortunatly I realised before I did any damage.
Yes, glad you did no damage. Singer made 20 versions of the domestic model 99 between 1923 t0 1963. Some of the early versions have the type of setup you have. As a general rule on the vintage machines, if there is only one fastener on a part like that it's going to be a screw, like a hinge screw where the screw end attaches the part and the head end has no threads to allow hinging or swiveling of the part. The machine I did has a hinge stud to hold like that, and a screw to hold parts onto the underside. Sorry if there was any confusion caused by me. I'll pin your comment to the top so other viewers see it first. Thanks for watching.
Oscillating hooks just freak me out and I don’t know why! Wow, such a difference in the feed dogs and the bobbin case holder. Thanks for figuring out these details for us, Andy!
They are truly different. When I first did a Model 337/338 is when I discovered "bell crank" and oscillating hooks. Ingenious I think, but it made me wonder about reversing directions on each stroke. To me it was like 2 steps forward, one back as far as energy expended. The gear driven rotary hook just makes more sense to me .. round and round we go. This hook system does work very nicely. I guess that's why Singer made millions of them too. Thanks for your comments; they are always fun for me.
I got a 99 in a bentwood case. I am refurbishing the case now and want to clean the machine. How much do you think I should do. Should I take the bobbin area apart and the tension button and the wheel?
In my videos, I take all those things apart b/c I want to do deep cleaning, and I want to show people how to do it if they need to replace parts or adjust them. How much work you do depends on the condition of your machine and what you are comfortable doing with it. If it is in working condition you do not need to dismantle anything at all if you don't wish to. Parts can be cleaned in place with brushes, rags, Q-tips, etc. You can use air to blow out lint and debris. You should absolutely oil the machine as shown in the Instruction Manual. www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 Some people over oil parts of the machine and run the motor to heat things up, then wipe off/out all the excess oil. They feel this will "flush out" old oil in spaces and bearings. Only do what you are comfortable doing is the best rule of thumb. After cleaning and oiling you can test sew and if you have problems, then decide to work on the tension unit or bobbin case area, pull the wheel to clean and oil inside it, etc. Congratulations on your "new" 99. It's a wonderful model.
Whoops!!! I jumped the gun, as usual. glad I decided to watch further. I see now you are talking about the red felt pad. (i thought it was threads or fabric) So stupid of me, Ill watch everything first!
Yes, you don't want to miss a minute of my exciting, informative videos, hehe. My videos certainly tend to be on the long side. I go a little slow too because I have viewers all over the world and many don't speak English or have English as a 2nd language. You can change the video playback speed to 1.5 or even higher and still get the gist of what I'm saying. I do have a playlist for this model that contains many more repair/adjust/cleaning videos you may find helpful. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks so much for watching my channel and saving that wonderful machine. Take care. BTW, if you pause the video at the end @1:05:54 I have a sketch of the new felt and the measurements to use cutting it out.
I saw a video on them the other day and I went to go look to see if mine was still intact... it seems to have disintegrated. My machine squeaks as well and I say with reasonable certainty that that is *why* it squeaks lol.
@@DFTBAandDS bro I wish, I don't remember what it was called. But, you can look up your sewing machine model and dive down the youtube rabbit hole! Do you need to know anything in particular?
@@Sage-qd6tf I am so far down that RUclips rabbit hole... 🤦♀️ I was just wondering about the possibility of buying replacements. Mine did not look that bad. I finally decided to remove the spring-y holder. I couldn't get the red felt out. It doesn't look too bad, so I'm currently soaking it in soapy water to maybe get rid of some oil, then I'll let it dry thoroughly.
Thanks, Bud. These pages at SInger support show how to find a model number (if there is one) on different machines: www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model Many older (black iron) machines have a serial number only. It's normally on top of the bed in front of the upright arm that has the stitching controls. With that serial number, you can go to ISMACS and look it up to find the model number: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html BTW, with a model number you can download a FREE copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer Support page at this link: www.singer.com/support
Congratulations! A free copy of the manual can be found towards the bottom of this Singer Support page: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 All 20 of my videos for the model are in a playlist here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Happy Sewing!
Hi Andy, just got my 99K out yesterday then found your video, thank you so much. You are a great teacher. Where did you find the spring screw driver that held the set screw? I've searched the internet and can only find the style with the claw at the tip. I like the one you have that holds the screw by the slot. Thanks again, you saved my 99K, I won't mention what I was doing about that red felt before I watched your video. Thankfully I did no harm.
I've heard some pretty funny red felt stories. Those are HJJ LOS GATOS vintage screw holding screwdrivers. The company has been closed for decades. You can find them sometimes on eBay like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/255067604556?hash=item3b6336c64c:g:B2AAAOSwb3Rg~z4O A tech lady recently started a company named after her grandpa's old company and she makes these kind of screwdrivers but with a hexagon plastic handle instead of brass. I bought some and did a video a couple of weeks ago about them. The owner offers my viewers 10% off thru 8-16-2021 Here is the video ruclips.net/video/ABALaSruihA/видео.html Here is her website fhelm.com/ FYI here is a playlist of all 19 videos I made for model 99K ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Welcome to Andy Tube and thanks for watching.
No, not at all. I have an entire playlist (20 videos) about working on the 99K. In previous videos, I took out the presser bar and the needle bar, and the needle clamp. I thought it would be a good time to record the bobbin area videos with a better view is all. The Playlist is here if you are interested: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for keeping your machine in service, and for watching my channel.
Having the feed dog easily adjustable makes for easier darning and machine embroidery. This is nice when you don't happen to have the darning plate for this machine.
Hi Andy. I'm in a pickle. I purchased this machine and didn't realize the bobbin just for the bobbin is missing. Do you know where I can purchase one? Thank you so much.
"Oscillating Hook Bobbin Case" SInger/Simanco Part #32590 The cheapest one today: www.ebay.com/itm/175362734266?hash=item28d46ef8ba:g:wzoAAOSw8Ixgksyt The best one today: www.ebay.com/itm/224533399531 Both sellers are trusted. Here are all my 99K videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z It's a great machine. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Great video Andy; I leant a lot. My problem is that the thread keeps breaking, I suspect something is wrong with the bobbin assembly, or hook. After watching this I now understand how it works but I'm not sure I have the confidence / tools to take it apart. If the hook in the bobbin area has a burr, what do you think is the best way to sharpen / remove the burr?
Welcome to andy tube, Mike. You do not need to remove many parts to test/repair a hook burr. It is more common than people realize for the hook/ hook point to have a little burr from a needle strike or from using metallic thread. So I made this 12-minute video about testing and fixing hook burrs. All you need is 6 inches of thread (nice if it's cotton) and some very fine sandpaper. If you find the burr, just give it a shoe shine. This is an OSMG fix (Old Sewing Machine Guy), and nowadays people would probably use a Dremel or some other tool, but it is hard to ruin a hook point with a strip of sandpaper, You could, but you'd have to be very determined. Anyway, here is the burr video: ruclips.net/video/us1sHv1-2Kc/видео.html I hope it helps and thanks for watching my channel. Don't be a stranger now, OK?
Andy this is so helpful. I have restored my grandmother's 99 with your help. Thank you!! I was sewing and every 30 stitches or so, the needle thread gets caught around the race at the top of the oscillating hook. It is really tight. Once you get the bobbin and case out the thread pulls right out. Any suggestions?
It seems odd that you get so many stitches before it happens. I guess I would do a close inspection of the hook, hook race, and bobbin case looking for burrs or something catching the thread. I would also try a different bobbin. I'm thinking this b/c the thread releases once you pull out the bobbin/case.
Hi Andy, Superb video and incredibly helpful - thank you. My bobbin case position bracket screw has been tampered with over time (chewed screw head) and I'm sure it's not set up right as the bobbin thread gets stuck sometimes and all tangled. Do you know the procedure for setting this piece up successfully?
This is a comment on this same page from viewer Roger Foster explaining what I call the thread cleance gap between the bobbin case and cushion spring: Roger Foster 6 months ago (edited) great video for seeing what is actually going on in there, the only thing I noticed is you seem to have way too much slack between the bobbin case & the bobbin case bracket making a clacking noise. if you loosen screw the screw on the bobbin case bracket (the one you move to the right to remove the bobbin case & left to lock it in) the screw they tell you never to remove, you can adjust the distance between the heel of the bobbin case & the cushion spring on the bracket with it in the bracket latch in the locked position & the bobbin case pulled fully left over the race for a gap of .010 to .015 of an inch between the heel & the cushion spring then tighten the screw down again, you can just pull the bobbin case fully to the left & measure the gap with a feeler gauge to see if it needs adjusting
@@andytubesewing1953 Ah! Thanks Andy. I'll give Mr Foster's set-up procedure a try and see how I go. Thanks for replying and pulling this advice from your comments section for me. =)
Andy, Please help. I didn't take the bobbin plate off and I've been trying to get it back on for days. I just spent a half hour trying to slide it back on in the way you said in the video would be "quite easy" . It is not so I'm wondering what issues this (new to me) 99 could be having. Could the plate or more likely the spring be damaged? Thank you for any advice you can give me. And thank you for this video. I have a few 99s and am always trying to learn more about them.
It's so handy at times. That is a vintage brass-sheathed spring screwdriver made by HJJ CO in LOS GATOS, CA. Long out of business Sometimes you find them on eBay like this: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=hjj+co+screwdriver&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=hjj+co&_osacat=0 Otherwise, many folks buy a modern set made by KLIEN TOOLS like this: www.zoro.com/klein-tools-screwdriver-set-slotted-screw-holding-3-piece-sk234/i/G2070957/ Another old company that made similar is called quick-wedge tools. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=2356+%26+1736&_sacat=0
Andy, I think you meant 1.18mm not 118mm for the feed dog height, you left out the decimal points from your feeler gauges. 118mm would be nearly 5 inches, 25.4 mm to an inch.
You mean the feed dog in the UK does not stand 5 inches above the throat plate? Haha. I stand corrected and thanks for letting me know. I'll pin yur comment on top so others may see it. Thanks for watching. Take Care.
Andy, my 99k is noisy in the bobbin area while the stitches on both sides are beautiful. Seems like there’s too much slack between the bobbin case and bracket. I tried adjusting the bracket by loosening the screw and moving the bracket. Is there another way to adjust the space between the bobbin case and the bracket? My Spartan is so much more smooth sounding. Thanks for any feedback.
I've never seen one for sale. I don't know if you could modify a store-bought spring by stretching it. People sell used parts on eBay, but you may have to buy other parts of the bobbin area with it.
@@maryalbaugh2066 Oh, you are a natural at this, huh? That is a brilliant 💡 idea, Mary. A pen spring may be light enough to reshape, but firm enough to hold a piece of felt for oil. I like it! Next thing you know you'll be posting a short video about how to do it. 👍Let me know
Thank you for this video. I just found a deal on this model and it is frozen. The presser foot lever is stuck in the down position. The needle bar of course is frozen too. I have been using blaster to try and free it up. No success.i read that clearing the bobbin area should be first task. What do you recommend to free a stuck screw. The one you removed after removing the feed dog.
I'm not sure clearing the bobbin area should be the first task, but up to you. On any stuck screw, I use oil & heat first to try and break it free. There is also a method of tapping the screwdriver a couple of sharp raps while trying to turn it. That can break it free and get it moving. Usually, patience is the key. If the presser bar is frozen, then I'd think the needle bar is also. Just the stuck needle bar can prevent everything from turning on the machine. If I have a frozen 99K I oil all the factory oil points and use a hairdryer. Let is sit for hours and oil again, etc. If oil and heat do not free up the machine the first thing I work on is the needle bar. No matter what it takes I get it off the machine b/c I always clean it anyway. Many times getting that needle bar moving has solved the frozen machine problem for me. If the machine is still stuck after removing the needle bar, I'd want to know if it is the upper or lower parts (or both) so I would disconnect one of the pitman rods on the bottom to separate the upper and lower mechanics. Like in the video at about 22:20 ruclips.net/video/JknRDA1rSVU/видео.html With the pitman rod loosened I/d try turning the handwheel b/c now the upper part is disconnected from the lower. If the handwheel still won't turn you have something other than (or in addition to) the bobbin area parts. If the handwheel turns now then you know it is something down below, maybe the hook system. Good Luck.
Hello! I have a machine exactly like this one in the video, minus mine being electric. Okay so my presser foot always also stuck, but mine was stuck in the up position. Basically, I called my uncle (he knows sewing machine stuff, kinda) and together, me him and my dad wiggled the entire bar of the presser foot right out. We used wax and grease remover and kinda dripped it in from the top where the knob for the presser foot on the top of the machine. Also, I recommend taking off the plate on the side of the machine, I got no idea what it's called but it's on the top left of the machine and you loosen a screw (which is handy dandy in the fact that you loosten it with your fingers) and then slide the plate up and off. I'd also say take a picture of what's in there once you take that off before you fiddle around with it. Anyways, we basically broke the rod loose by smacking it with the back of a screwdriver and then unscrewing it with pliers since it was all gummed up. Then we cleaned everything with wax and grease remover. My needle rod wasnt seized thank god, but yesterday my machine started sticking in one particular spot and my my magical mechanic intuition, I figured out that it was sticking somewhere below the bobbin area. Just kidding, I figured that out by holding my finger on various spots and figuring out which ones had the most vibration prior to breaking the thing loose again. The problem was a screw on the bottom and again I have no idea what the clscrew us called, however, it's the screw which is on the other end of that bracket thing that is shaped like this thing ). Theres a massive screw on one end, and that is not the screw that was stuck, but the screw on the other end. I hope that helped and if theres anything that was confusing just let me know. Also, I suggest googling it and looking on some antique sewing machine forums if you havent already. Sometimes there are some useful diagrams.
Congratulations and hope you love your 99K. This is probably the biggest online seller of parts, so they get a lot of business: www.sewingpartsonline.com/ I've been buying from this vendor for many years with complete satisfaction and service, www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-99-parts/products/singer-bobbin-cover-part-32569-fits-model-66-66-1-66-16-99-99k-185-192-285 www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-99-parts/products/original-style-motor-v-belt-singer-part-193067 That is also where I I bought the LED screw-in bulb for my 99K that you see in my video. There are also many sellers on eBay now and I do not shop much on Amazon, but I'm told they have a lot of parts sellers there now also. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@junejiang7647 Sure, and I'm happy for you buying your 99K. I really like this model and you can do any work needed to keep it running forever (almost) Take Care.
Hi Andy, I need help. I followed your video on how to replace the red felt Oiler in the cone shaped spring of a Singer 99. I have a Singer 66, and decided to clean the assembly where this spring inserts. Needless to say when I unscrewed the already loosened pin holding the bobbin lift mechanism, the spring flew out! I did take a couple of pictures, so I know where parts go, but I can’t get the tiny spring to fit back in place correctly. Can you help?
I don't have the machine any longer to take a close look at the mechanism. I do have some parts list w/ pictures and numbers and it looks like there is a screw stud that holds the spring onto the lift lever. They are not very clear pictures b/c it is a xerox copy, but you are welcome to have the manuals if you think they would help. Email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask him for the Model 66 parts manuals.- if you'd like them.
Hi Andy , the top of the small screw that holds the small metal plate / spring that the bobbin cover on the Singer 99 K slides on to is broken off ....any advice as to how I can remove the rest of the broken screw .. Regards, Fintan in Ireland
Ouch. It's a decent size screw to work with. Put some oil ow wd40 on it to soak first. If any of the screw sticks up you can try something like in this video: ruclips.net/video/8RveJhE_CcM/видео.html If it broke off flush with the hole you can try a version of this method: ruclips.net/video/8RveJhE_CcM/видео.html Anything with a sharp point will work. I've had viewers tell me they used epoxy or similar to JB WELD to glue another screw to the top of the broken one, then unscrew the new screw bringing the old one with it. Super careful with this method so you don't glue the old screw into the hole 👀 Finally, I had a small screw like yours broken down inside the hole. I used a very small metal drill bit to drill a shallow hole in the broken screw, NOT in the center. You know, a metal punch off-center for a drill bit starter, then used a 1/64th inch bit and drilled a 1/32nd inch deep hole, then used a nail at an angle into that hole (like my video) to tap the screw counterclockwise; around, and around and up and out. It ruined the bit but that is much cheaper than the new screw will cost if you can even find one. Screw 226J, 56 TPI, Singer Tap TE517, Alternate Tap #3 UNF.
Hey Andy how are you I just got a Mid-State vintage sewing machine model 6 Ms 11 20 can't find it anywhere so I was trying to find out how old my machine was and if it was a spin off from singer
There was no spin-off from Singer per se. There were a couple dozen companies, mostly in Japan, that made clones of the Singer machines after WWll. Mostly models 15, 66, and 99. There may not have even been a Mid-State "company" but a factory that made clones and "Badged" them for the buyers which were usually department stores or supply companies. Sears, Mongomery Wards, JC Penny, Western, etc. If you have access to an Android cellphone you can use the Picture Search function and I'm betting the pictures that come up would be SInger Model 66 or 99. Something like this: offerup.com/item/detail/537560721 On these Japan-made machines the Singer parts would often work for replacement and vice-versa. There are stories I've read that the US Government gave the blueprints of some of the SInger Models to Japan after WWll to aid them in the reconstruction of their economy/country.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you very much for responding the picture I pulled up that you sent me is identical but the plate does not say Precision it says Deluxe made in Japan made in Occupied Japan to be exact so the table that it sits in is identical to that one everything's identical except for that name plate and it's a 6ms 11:20 and I can't find that anywhere really
@@marilynaldridge7735 That is my exact point. Made in Japan by one of the 20 or 30 companies. They did not last long or keep records and were quickly absorbed by large companies like Toyota and Mitsubishi. The exact machine you have may have also had 3 or 4 other "Badges" or names. They are actually decent machines but mostly impossible to find information about.
Just got a 99 that we're cleaning up & re-wiring so this was very helpful! Where did you get the thingamagig that holds the screw on so you can screw it in without losing it? I've needed one for years!
They were given to me. There vintage, but you can buy modern ones. They are called screw-starters, screw-holding screwdriver, or Quick_Wedge screwdriver. A friend recently bought this set and told me they work well: www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-3-Piece-Screw-Holding-Screwdriver-Set-SK234/100648025 Best of luck with your Model 99.
Dear Andy pls help I have 185k singer sewing machine the bobbin case on the machine kept moving when sewing so was trying to take it out to see what the problem was but it was stuck so took out the screw on the bobbin case position bracket I didn't have the instruction book at hand at the time now found it and read that the screw must not be loosened the loosening of the screw will change the clearance for the thread between the bobbin case and the bobbin case position bracket how can I fix this problem will be grateful for your advice it's a lovely sewing machine I've tryed put everything back in position but it won't sew will be grateful for your advice.
Salim, I would check that the bobbin case is the correct part number 32590. @ 15:30 in this video I talk a little about that screw "E" and that it is used to set the thread clearance. If the clearance is too small the thread gets stuck. If the clearance is too big the bobbin bounces and is loud. Usually, when a customer comes to me with a "Moving Bobbin Case" I find the bobbin case was not installed properly. I'm not saying that is the reason for your problem, only that it is a possibility. All I can advise is you follow the reinstallation of the parts in this video starting @ 40:00. Special attention to 45:00 thru 47:30 installing the bobbin case. This one is tricky even for me and it took me 3 or 4 tries to get the case on the hook race properly. Once all the parts are installed correctly you can test the machine to see if screw "E" needs adjustment. If so then take a look at this video of a different machine and setting the thread clearance. ruclips.net/video/OXKqZp87eN4/видео.html This gives you an idea of how to set the clearance. I have no document that says what the thread clearance on a model 185 should be. Most vintage Singer machines have a cleance of between .012" to .018", or about .31 to .45 MM. You want an adjustment that lets the needle thread pass through the space between the bobbin case and the bracket, but not too much space which makes the bobbin case "jump"' and be very noisy.
Hi Andy. Which vintage do u personally believe is the toughest most dependable machine you have worked on. A WORKHORSE type. That can handle heavy thick upholstery fabrics??
Remembering that these are domestic (home) sewing models and not industrial, my immediate answer is the model 404 heavy-duty slant needle straight stitch sewing machine. In this comparison video I discuss this model 404 starting at 21:50. ruclips.net/video/CjLe24c9xfY/видео.html Direct drive gear driven motor, ( not motor belt) all steel gear hook drive system (no timing belt). internal .7AMP motor. I like this model so much I did a 56 video playlist for restoring it step-by-step. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI Keep it clean and lubricated and replace the motor brushes every 25 years. This is an under-rated model, but I love it and the front, top drop-in class 66 bobbin system with a taller presser foot and slant needle system that gives you a better view of the needle into the needle plate (work area) There are many other hard-working models you could look at also, like the 15-91 and the 201. This model 99K (in this video you commented on) is strong and takes up to a size 21 needle 👀 (larger than the 404 can) and it is only a 3/4 size copy of the model 66. So, 15-91, 66, 99, 404, and all can mount into a Singer cabinet or custom work table. They cal all use a walking foot attachment for sewing layered, thick material If you want to reupholster a house full of furniture, any of these models will do. If you are opening an upholstery business you're better of in the long run to buy an industrial machine.
For used vintage parts, I find many on eBay and www.thriftyfarmgirl.com/ For "new" parts like springs, bobbins, tires, rubber feet, cords, etc. I have used this seller for many years www.vintagesingerparts.com/ Some sellers on eBay also offer parts like that. The last choice for new stuff is www.sewingpartsonline.com/ Their quality is fine and they have a large selection but, IMO, they are pricey with slower service. They are probably the largest seller of parts. Thanks for watching my channel
Hi Andy, love your Singer videos! I just picked up a 1956 Singer 99k and am cleaning it up. I was hoping to send you photos but I can’t here. I am looking at the bobbin case from the top and it has two pointy projections at the end near the dogs, enclosing a small indentation. Here’s my question. When I turn the case on it’s side and view it, the longer pointy is twisted a wee bit upwards (about 0.7 mm to make it a little higher than the smaller pointy. Is this the way the case is manufactured or has the longer one been twisted up? In which case I will have to flatten it to match the plane of the smaller one. I hope my explanation is clear. I look forward to your reply with much thanks! Gordon
email is andytube53@gmail.com for pictures. I think I know what you are talking about. At 14:17 in this video I have my right index finger on the long point. If this is what you mean, I believe both points should be level, so they sit properly and the hook race can go back and forth on the bobbin holder/case. This style of bobbin holder/case has been used on several model generations of Singer machines including the 99, 185, 237,401,403,404,500A,503A, etc. I have some of those cases in stock and just looked at 4 of them. They all had flat, level points.
How did you get the factory setting information for things such as the feed dog height? Recently purchased an earlier 99K with no reverse and taking it apart alongside your immensely helpful videos. Thanks for all the hard work Andy!
Every SInger machine had a Service, Repair or Adjustment Guide issued for it. There are sellers online and eBay who will sell you paper copies or downloads. There are services that sell downloads like this one: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-66-99-185-sewing-machine-adjusters-manual/ There are document sharing groups you can join and people upload and download documents that can include ones like this written by the Tools for Self Reliance charity group: www.scribd.com/document/355688276/How-to-refurbish-sewing-machines-TFSR-Refurbishment-Guide That guide is very good for a few models including the 99. It does not have some of the technical specs that the SInger document will have. If you'd like to support the charity you can buy the manual directly from them: www.tfsr.org/product/sewing-machine/ So if I need a manual for service I usually search for it free online somewhere. Most of the eBay sellers did that and then are reselling it to you. If I can not find it free then I search for the best price for buying it on eBay or other online sources. I do not belong to any sewing groups but there are many of them; Yahoo, Facebook, etc. I would think that members of those groups would share service and instruction manuals, but I don't belong to them so just a guess. Thanks for saving the 99K. It was fun, right? Ready for another? Check out my Playlist pages with over 500 videos for working on Vintage SInger Machines you may see another model that interests you. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public Thanks for watching my channel and Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 That is so very helpful, all these links you have provided are spot on. Scribd TFSR refurb guide is the coolest thing, I never knew these existed. Buying the manual direct is a good shout to support them as well as joining social media communities. I am ready for the next one! Thanks a bunch.
Thank you for this Andy. I purchased a very tatty Singer 66 recently and now dismantling and cleaning with your help but the mechanism that I'm finding really interesting is the stitch length. I can just about see how Singer have done this by changing the rise (gradient) of a cam ( in the area below the spool holder pin.) I'd like to use this machine for auto leather upholstery, and I know it's capable of it, but it would be great for the stitch length to be increased a little beyond the designed maximum. Any thoughts on this please Andy before I 'donate' this machine to experiment?
I've never worked to lengthen the stitch on a 99K. I know a few fellows who have done so on a 404 and 403A. The feed regulator controls the length, and by removing the indicator plate (in one case filing out a longer slot in the indicator plate) they have removed the limit the plate puts on length. You do not gain much length before the feed dog starts hitting the hook parts or the back of the inside of the machine below the hook. Both fellows were using the machines to sew sails for their boats, and they said any amount longer made quicker sewing and saved a good amount of thread costs. I suppose the 99K could be modified in this way also as it has a similar type of feed system. The other models have a slightly longer feed regulator and a small slide block while this 99K has a roller that may limit how much length you will gain by removing the indicator plate. Here is a video about the 99K regulator: ruclips.net/video/OTuoIj0Vx0E/видео.html and here is a video of the regulator on a 403A (same as 404): ruclips.net/video/omHg86F73HY/видео.html Those videos will show what I'm talking about. Here is the entire playlist of my 99K videos in case you have other issues: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck to you.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for this Andy. The 66 that I have has the block slide and screw regulator. Yes I have realised that if the stitch length was somehow increased then the feed dog would probably hit the inside of the machine and careful grinding may be needed. This could open 'a can of worms' as they say but would of mechanically interest. Cheers, Anthony
@@ajskilton Yes others have taken a small grinder to the area around the feed dog and hook to make more travel room and done other modifications to get a slightly longer stitch one of my viewers said she finally gave up on the project and bought a $200 used industrial machine that sews like crazy so there's several ways to go for a longer stitch whatever you choose I hope it works out for you thanks for watching my channel and good luck
I sure do ruclips.net/video/kN2QLYxZNv4/видео.html All 19 of my model 99k videos are in this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Congratulations! If you mean bobbins, needles, bed feet, some presser feet, light bulbs, motor belts, here are a couple of well known dependable dealers www.sewingpartsonline.com/ www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer If you mean something like a needle bar, feed dog, bobbin winder, light and so forth I buy from sellers on eBay who are parting out a machine. IMO, a used vintage part in good condition is much better than parts made nowadays. Any well-rated seller will do. Here are the other 18 videos for model 99K on my channel ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Here is where you can download a FREE copy of the instruction manual from SInger (scroll down) ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Happy sewing, and thanks for visiting my channel.
Hi, Lori. Most of the time I use Krud Kutter Original Cleaner and Degreaser by Rust-oleum. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter Usually I just spray, let it sit a minute or so, and rinse with water. For some parts, like the feed dog, I may also use a toothbrush or metal detail brush. If the parts are rusty I will then use a rust remover The Must for Rust, also by Rust-oleum. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor Rarely I find parts that are just extremely dirty and I use an UltraSonic Cleaner.
Where did you find a replacement positioning pad holder, or funnel spring and felt pad as you called it??? I checked Singers Web site and they don't have it.....
Could you please help me? I have just got a Singer Serial Number AL458820. It's a 66 Model, according to the Singer Data Base. But it has a bobbin system just like that one.
Well, yes, your machine is a Model 1966 ordered in 1953. Yes, it has a bobbin system just like my model 99K. Singer model 99 is a 3/4 size model 66. The parts are the same. My model 99K just has a smaller. lighter body. Think of it as a "portable" model 66. If you want to learn more about our machines here is a link to my Playlist of 19 videos about removing, replacing, adjusting, cleaning, oiling, and so forth. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z My videos can be used for your model 66. Was that the help you were looking for? Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for that! I would surely love to find a 99 in Brasil. This 66 I got for "decoration only", since the bobbin system is not complete. A technician told me I have a "relic". For Brazil, yes.
@@vaccavo I'd guess there are 500,000 model 66 working around the world. Some sellers of used parts on eBay ship to Brazil. You can download a free copy of the instruction manual if you want to know more about model 66. Here is the page at Singer www.singer.com/search/support?title=66
É uma chave de fenda HJJ Co. vintage com pontas de aço de mola e tubo de latão. Eles são mais difíceis de encontrar agora e mais dinheiro: www.ebay.com/itm/384518752372?hash=item59871a8874:g:eE8AAOSwtKFhnJNs Uma nova empresa agora faz uma cópia com aço de mola e corpo de plástico: www.ebay.com/itm/303983158657?hash=item46c6cee581:g:SR0AAOSwxltgjySV Existem outros tipos de arrancadores de parafuso de um estilo diferente. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=screw+starter+screw+driver&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=HJJ+SCREWDRIVER&_osacat=0
I have just bought my first ever vintage Singer... a 1939 99K and that screw which Singer warns never to play with... on top of the latch pin in the bobbin area... has marks that show someone has opened it up. I'm scared. Its not sewing at all... isn't forming the back of a stitch. This video has at least shown me other things I can check but that screw is haunting my nightmares
Congratulations; it's a very nice model. There is a very slim (not impossible) chance that the last pin adjustment is causing your machine to "skip" stitches. It is more likely that the timing is off. Timing is the way the needlepoint aligns to the hook point so as to catch the needle thread, wrap it around the bobbin thread, and form the lock stitch. It is easy to check the timing and not difficult to correct if it is off. Here is the link to my entire 20 video Playlist for model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z If you look down that list you will find this video for checking/setting the timing: ruclips.net/video/9zU1_VjMddQ/видео.html That is what I would check after checking that you installed the needle facing the proper direction and threaded the needle correctly. That info is in the Instruction Manual that is available for FREE from the Singer USA SUpport page at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 (try the one listed as 99-13) Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
So, Chet, you removed the latch screw? The big silver one between the bobbin case and the ejector button? Now you want to know how to fix the thread clearance? Haha, you are a guy after my own heart. So when everything is reassembled and you have the screw back in place, do not tighten it up yet. Singer does not list the gap setting, but most of the vintage machines I have done have a gap between the bottom corner of the bobbin case and the cushioning spring of between .012 and .016 inches. That would be a good place to start. With the latch screw loosened place your feeler gauge between the bobbin case and the cushion spring. Using a small screwdriver or stick between the top of the bobbin case and the latch to move the latch (and the cushion spring that is attached to it) against your guage until you have the gap you want, then keep it in place while you tighten up that latch screw all the way. What you want is a gap that allows the thread to slip between the bobbin case and spring as the hook takes it around. If the gap is too small the thread can hang there and skip stitches or make a big birds nest. If the gap is too big the bobbin case will "slam" loudly back and forth with each stitch. Of course, you want something just right. You may have to adjust it 2 or 3 times until you get a gap you like. Use a feeler gauge each time so you know what gap you are setting. Say you start with a .014 gap and it's too small then you can try a .016 or .018 next time. If .016 was too big, then try .014 or .012 and retest the stitching quality. Here is a video of the procedure on a model 404. The parts are shaped a little different, but the principle of setting the correct thread gap is the same. ruclips.net/video/OXKqZp87eN4/видео.html Take it easy with that screwdriver Chet and stay out of trouble.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy there must be thousands of people who still get a family machine handled down. mine is from 1941., and think give it a clean hover out the dust and just jump for the screwdrivers .with good intent. sadly not many instructions are with the machines. the craftsmen/ women who put them together. Your videos are extension to that ,and are keeping the machines alive .big thanks .
@@autoliv4 Fabric or the thread is caught? I'm not sure exactly what you mean. If the thread is caught and handwheel will not turn you can remove/loosen the motor belt and try turning the handwheel backward or away from you. At 10:00 in this video ruclips.net/video/CsWvFjjmK5E/видео.html you get an idea of raising the motor to slip the belt off, then it is ok to turn the handwheel backward. You can also go under the hook to try and ct thread if it shows there. I can't imagine cloth is caught in the machine. Where? Sorry, I'd like to help but not sure what you are asking. Ask again in your normal language and try to explain.
Glad if it helped you. Here are my other 18 videos for Model 99K if you have other issues ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z thanks for watching my channel and happy sewing. (nice artwork BTW ✨)
@@MonaTurnbull Singer sold the light & motor as a kit at one point in time, allowing you to convert your hand-crank machine to electric. My wife did that to a 99 many years ago. Thanks so much for watching my channel.
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So helpful! The bobbin cover plate was off when I got the machine and you showed me how to get it back on. Thanks
I'm glad you found the video. Happy sewing.
Awesome video, I am 66 years old, and have just started to take old pre 1950 singers apart. There are hundreds of singer videos on youtube, Yours is about the best and most instructive on here. Thank you for the time you take to teach us new comers
What a great comment and you are welcome for the videos, but thank you for your new interest and saving some of these wonderful vintage Singer Machines. Most of my videos are of machines made between 1950 and 1980. I hope you will take a look at some of those models too and see the changes Singer made over the years. Welcome to Andy Tube, Paul, and thanks for watching.
You are an artist. You are thorough, neat, patient and a student of the machine. I've seen guys in a frenzy yanking parts off and slinging them in a pan. I like your approach....what a great video.
Thanks very much. Better to go slower so folks can follow along and learn. Thanks for keeping your machine running and I appreciate your comment.
Thank you so much for putting this video together! I'm new to vintage machines, and just got a 1926 model 99 for $20, and I'm trying to get it fixed up. This is so helpful. I'm sure I'll end up watching all of your series.
Very welcome! I'm glad you found my channel and the 99K playlist. You can do all the maintenance and repairs on your machine, no worries. What a bargain for such a strong machine! Good Luck and take care.
The 99 series certainly had a long life. My 99K came with an instruction manual (covering a range of machines) dated 1963.
An immensely satisfying instructional video. Questions answered, tips shared, techniques (and tools) explained; mechanism entirely dismantled, examined, explained, and re-assembled. I’m a fan. Thank-you.
Hi Donna. Thanks for the nice comment and for watching my channel. Hope to hear from you again.
Me too! This was great, and exactly what I needed. Very grateful.
I would never have known what this part looked like or what I needed until I watched your video and saw the part with my own eyes. Also, you were so quick to respond to my question. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Came back to say *THANK YOU* for this video. It was invaluable in repairing the 1928 99-13 that had gotten jammed this morning. It was plugged in improperly causing it to runaway and jam the bobbin plate up with the hook race.
thank you Derek it's always nice when somebody takes the time to comment that my video was helpful
Was cleaning and oiling my 99K today and was baffled by the feed dog as well, until I came back to watch this video👍 I didnt disassemble everything because the machine works great as it is. I love this beauty! Thanks Andy 👍
One Singer man I met called the 99K the "Might Might" of partable machines. An apt title for sure. Yes, no need to remove parts that are working and adjusting wee except maybe for cleaning in some cases. People ask me frequently "must I take it all apart as you did?" Heck no! I only do that for people who need or want to take the part off.
@@andytubesewing1953 well now I know how to if need be😁👍
This was great info!!!! Just got a 99k this morning and really got far with this video! Thanks a bunch!
congrats on your "new" model 99. A treasure. Here are all 21 of my Model 99 videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thank you for keeping it in service, and happy sewing.
Excellent video. His explanations and teachings are precious. Because each sewing machine has a mechanic with different details.
Many thanks for your kind remarks. I'm just trying to share information and encourage people to do-it-yourself. Take care :)
Thank You Andy for taking extra time & effort to really get a good view to show all hidden parts from this complex Machine mechanism !! Cool Engineering !and also...Great Tips not to break the sliding Plate parts~!! :-)
Welcome, Dan. The most unique bobbin area parts I've worked on. Tricky. Thanks for watching.
Thank for this informative video. I just bought myself a super rusty 99k that I want to bring back to life.
It's a great model. 3/4 size little sister of model 66 but with all the power. You may be interested in my other 19 videos for this model. They are in this Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
If you have any questions you know where I am. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Hey Andy! I'm loving this video! I have an old 99 that a friend of mine gave me and while I was cleaning her up I stumbled upon the red felt and thought it was a piece of cloth jammed in the works and I started ripping it out! LOL! I also was looking at the manual online as saw that latch area which Singer warned should never ever be moved! So I'm sitting here amazed that you're doing all of
that and more!
Glad you found this. Yep, the 99 is a 3/4 size 66. My first ever black painted Singer so I had to I had to learn about it somehow, hehe. Bent the spring holder for the red felt right away. Oh well, no omelets without breaking eggs, right? Thanks for commenting.
Once again you save me from myself Andy. I have a singer 457 And I got some fabric jammed into the bobbin casing. I couldn’t figure out how to get the bobbin cover off So I could see to use some tweezers to gently pull out the fabric. Even though it’s a very different machine this showed me how easy it was to take that bobbin cover off. Thanks Andy!
I'm glad you found this video, Kathy. Very kind of you to leave the comment, Thank You. Happy Sewing.
I have to thank you for this video! This video was so helpful for getting my little 99 unfrozen. So much gunk in there!
Oh good, so happy you found the answer! Good luck going forward.
Oh drat, I just replied to your other comment with an essay on how I unfrozen mine lol, how did you get yours?
Awesome video!!! I am in the process of restoring my first machine and this is GREAT info - very informative thank you very much!!!!
You're welcome, and thanks for restoring that machine! Hope you find it fun and rewarding and it becomes the first of many. My Playlist page has many restoration videos (500+) in playlists by the model number if you are ever interested in another model to restore. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists Thank you for watching my channel and best of luck.
I’ve watched several of your videos that have helped me begin the restoration process of a singer 66-16 which is very similar to the 99k model. I can’t thank you enough for your informative videos of vintage sewing machines. I’m upgrading the electrical components too, due to crusty wires. Although my machine has been unused for several decades, it seems to be in good condition. Once the restoration process is completed in the next wk or so, I’m hoping it works. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Glad to help! The model 99 is a 3/4 size model 66 so you are correct they have the same type mechanics. Thank you for rescuing that machine and good luck.
Andy Tube You have no idea how many people will be able to use their vintage machines now that there are RUclips videos like yours available. The original manuals don’t do the machines the justice they deserve. I’ll now be able to help others who were in a similar situation like me.
@@berthamadonna You're very kind. Thank you ✨
Oooo where did you get the new electrical stuff? Mine is so crunchy that I affectionately call it the Fire Hazard.
You are the best teacher and I appreciate your videos!! God bless you!!
Thank you for the blessing and the nice comment. 🙏
The best complete information and directions, Thank You. Now I understand and can properly clean the area of the bobbin case. 🙂
Thanks for this video. It worked perfect for my 99. Just picked up a Singer 185J from the owner who said it wasn't working properly. I noticed that there was plenty of thread and lint in this area and stuck on feed dogs and that also that the positioning finger screw was loose and that there was no felt in the spring at all. I can configure felt to put in there, but how to adjust the positioning finger that must not be touched readjusted and that thread clearance to be functional again?
There is nothing specific about it in any manual I could find. There are two screws on the Latch. I loosened the screw closest to the front of the machine (towards me while looking from the end) and that allowed a little movement b/c the back or far screw allowed the latch to swivel. I just placed the tip of the Singer Tension Screw Driver in between and tightened the front screw. That gave me a little gap where I had no gap before. I could not tell you the exact size of the gap. I just eye-balled it and it was good in the sewing test.
So that is how you get the feed dogs out! Thanks Andy you solved a puzzle for me.
You're welcome! It is very puzzling cuz it's so different than other singer models that I've done. I'm glad you found the video and thanks for the nice comment
Thanks Andy , I've been trying to pull the bobbin thread up but couldn't. The parts were moving but when I followed your instructions I realized they were caked with old oil making the thread stick to it . Thanks man
You're welcome, and good on you for persisting and finding a solution. I'm happy if my video helped. Happy sewing.
Thank you for the in depth removal/replace of the bobbin area. This was very helpful!!!
Very welcome, Rita. Thanks for the comment. Take Care.
Thanks a lot. The video helped me work on a 99 that had been in a hot shed in the desert for years. Now it is working well.
Thank you for saving that machine! I'm glad it is back in service. Thanks for the nice comment.
Andy, thank you again. Second time this week! Thought I would have to take the machine in to the shop. All because the feed dogs had shifted down a bit. Watched your video. Took apart the bobbin and cleaned it, and adjusted the food dog and works perfectly! Thank you!!
You're getting to be a pro at this, Marya! I appreciate your comment. Thank you ✨
This was an awesome video. How wonderful of you to share every step of the way. We are cleaning up a 1910 Singer treadle for a very good friend. It’s been in her family all these years but needs some TLC. We knew the bobbin area needed a good cleaning but we’re afraid to tackle it. I think now we have the confidence to go ahead thanks to you! 🙏🏻👍🏻
Such a nice project you have there. Good on you, and I know your friend will appreciate your efforts. It's always special to have a family owned machine like that. Good luck.
I watched and took mine apart and cleaned with you … thank you
Welcome and thanks for working on your machine!
Thank you for your time in showing us so many things. I picked up a 99k , at the dump today and it is in excellent condition, BUT, I like to tinker and clean up any machine I get. So there is a wad of pink threads or fabric wedged to the right by that ejector thing and the only way i think i can get at it is by removing and cleaning the whole bobbin case. I think I pretty much understand that swivel thing so I will give it all a try! What have I got to lose? I can always come back and watch you again! Thanks so much. Suzanne
Keep watching and I'll tell you all about that "wad of threads".
great video for seeing what is actually going on in there, the only thing I noticed is you seem to have way too much slack between the bobbin case & the bobbin case bracket making a clacking noise.
if you loosen screw the screw on the bobbin case bracket (the one you move to the right to remove the bobbin case & left to lock it in) the screw they tell you never to remove, you can adjust the distance between the heel of the bobbin case & the cushion spring on the bracket with it in the bracket latch in the locked position & the bobbin case pulled fully left over the race for a gap of .010 to .015 of an inch between the heel & the cushion spring then tighten the screw down again, you can just pull the bobbin case fully to the left & measure the gap with a feeler gauge to see if it needs adjusting .
Thank you for sharing the measurement for the Thread Clearance for this model. Nice of you to comment. For viewers unfamiliar with the Thread Clearance, this video for model 404 will give you an idea of setting the "gap" between the bobbin case and cushion spring: ruclips.net/video/OXKqZp87eN4/видео.html
Hope to hear from you again, Roger.
Thanks man!!!
Thank you so much for your detailed videos. You are so generous to share your knowledge and experience. I was given a 99k and had it serviced before using it but what a waste of money as it wasn't sewing well when it came back. Since then I've freed up the stitch length knob which was stuck, cleaned the bobbin race which hadn't been done for many years I suspect and reset the hook timing and needle bar height. It seems to be working just fine now and sews through leather easily. The only thing I haven't been able to fix is disengaging the needle mechanism when winding a bobbin. Turning the little silver wheel doesn't seem to do anything but it's not a big deal.
You are welcome, Rebecca. Congratulations on repairing your own machine. Nicely done! I made my channel for people like you who just want to fix their machine and sew on it. Thank you for saving that 99K. The stop motion clamp washer is probably installed incorrectly. A very common problem, and easy to fix. It may need to be turned 180 degrees, or it may be on backward. This video is about the handwheel and bobbin winder: ruclips.net/video/kN2QLYxZNv4/видео.html and at about 33:50 I show and explain about putting the clamp washer back on the machine correctly. It will take just a couple minutes to check it and 1 minute to fix it. I know you can do this and if it is not that then let me know and we will continue to troubleshoot the problem until fixed. Good Luck, and thanks so much for watching my channel.
Thank you again Andy. I've taken off the little silver wheel thingy, turned the washer half a turn and replaced it and it now disengages the needle like its supposed to. You are my hero!
@@rebeccasanderson3778 Nicely done! Happy endings are always the best. Now you know about this, and the same set-up is on many, many machines.
That's so much! Your videos are so good I was able to fix my timing problem using this video and your needlebar timing video!
I'm glad you found the videos, Stephanie. I always love hearing when folks are able to fix their machine. Thanks for commenting.
Great video! Thanks! Very helpful and everything is clearly explained and demonstrated.
Thank you very much, Ginny, for your kind comment. I appreciate you watching my channel. Take care.
Hey Andy, I found a 192k this weekend. I’ll be cleaning it up and oiling it but it looks like it’s in pretty good shape. I was wondering what the red felt was and started trying to pull it out then I started thinking it was there for a reason and not a clump of crud…lol. I’ll be watching your playlist for the 99k. I can’t wait to try it out. I hear the motor is pretty much all that! Take care and thanks for all your help.
I've never seen one in person, but the manual shows it is a Spartan Version. It looks great. Oh yeah, you'll like the motor for sure. The whole machine actually. Happy exploring.
You are a great Mr Andy
You are very kind. Thank you.🙏 ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
I have been working on an older 66, today I overhauled the rotating hook area....took everything out but the hook....I am not ready to fiddle with the timing just yet, am going to check it 1st and see if it is in time or not . I needed this video to see how to install the bobbin area parts....Thanks....
thanks for saving that model 66. Glad my video was helpful. Happy sewing.
❤ very informative!!!
It's kind of you to say so. Thanks for watching my channel. Tale care.
This is helping with the Sewmor Japanese clone I just found. It's a "404". Thank you.
Thanks for sharing this info. Good Luck.
Thanks for making I just got one🥰
Yes, you're welcome. I think you're really going to like that machine. It was a joy to work on. Good luck and thanks for the nice comment
Hi Andy thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, you have been a great help. Great job.
I'm glad you found the video. nice of you to comment. come back soon.
Thanks for the video Andy, Very usefull. Only thing is, I have a 99k what dosnt have the pin holding the bobbin assembly in. It unscrews from the top.
Looking at yours, you have a screw and a pin visable from the top, I only have a screw.
Just thought I'd mention it as I spent a good 10 min trying to get the screw out with a punch.
Fortunatly I realised before I did any damage.
Yes, glad you did no damage. Singer made 20 versions of the domestic model 99 between 1923 t0 1963. Some of the early versions have the type of setup you have. As a general rule on the vintage machines, if there is only one fastener on a part like that it's going to be a screw, like a hinge screw where the screw end attaches the part and the head end has no threads to allow hinging or swiveling of the part. The machine I did has a hinge stud to hold like that, and a screw to hold parts onto the underside. Sorry if there was any confusion caused by me. I'll pin your comment to the top so other viewers see it first. Thanks for watching.
Oscillating hooks just freak me out and I don’t know why! Wow, such a difference in the feed dogs and the bobbin case holder. Thanks for figuring out these details for us, Andy!
They are truly different. When I first did a Model 337/338 is when I discovered "bell crank" and oscillating hooks. Ingenious I think, but it made me wonder about reversing directions on each stroke. To me it was like 2 steps forward, one back as far as energy expended. The gear driven rotary hook just makes more sense to me .. round and round we go. This hook system does work very nicely. I guess that's why Singer made millions of them too. Thanks for your comments; they are always fun for me.
I got a 99 in a bentwood case. I am refurbishing the case now and want to clean the machine. How much do you think I should do. Should I take the bobbin area apart and the tension button and the wheel?
In my videos, I take all those things apart b/c I want to do deep cleaning, and I want to show people how to do it if they need to replace parts or adjust them. How much work you do depends on the condition of your machine and what you are comfortable doing with it. If it is in working condition you do not need to dismantle anything at all if you don't wish to. Parts can be cleaned in place with brushes, rags, Q-tips, etc. You can use air to blow out lint and debris. You should absolutely oil the machine as shown in the Instruction Manual. www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 Some people over oil parts of the machine and run the motor to heat things up, then wipe off/out all the excess oil. They feel this will "flush out" old oil in spaces and bearings. Only do what you are comfortable doing is the best rule of thumb. After cleaning and oiling you can test sew and if you have problems, then decide to work on the tension unit or bobbin case area, pull the wheel to clean and oil inside it, etc. Congratulations on your "new" 99. It's a wonderful model.
Whoops!!! I jumped the gun, as usual. glad I decided to watch further. I see now you are talking about the red felt pad. (i thought it was threads or fabric) So stupid of me, Ill watch everything first!
Yes, you don't want to miss a minute of my exciting, informative videos, hehe. My videos certainly tend to be on the long side. I go a little slow too because I have viewers all over the world and many don't speak English or have English as a 2nd language. You can change the video playback speed to 1.5 or even higher and still get the gist of what I'm saying. I do have a playlist for this model that contains many more repair/adjust/cleaning videos you may find helpful. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Thanks so much for watching my channel and saving that wonderful machine. Take care. BTW, if you pause the video at the end @1:05:54 I have a sketch of the new felt and the measurements to use cutting it out.
Much Love !!!! Busy with my 1st & Thank you for Sharing ;)
You're welcome. I'm glad you found my videos and you sure picked a nice model. Good luck.
It is lucky that I see this video before I get rid of that red felt oil pad.
I'm glad you found the video! Singer eventually did away with it in future models, but It serves a purpose IMO. Thanks for watching Andy Tube.
I saw a video on them the other day and I went to go look to see if mine was still intact... it seems to have disintegrated. My machine squeaks as well and I say with reasonable certainty that that is *why* it squeaks lol.
@@Sage-qd6tf can you link the video you saw? Andy is great, but I like to watch as many videos as I possibly can.
@@DFTBAandDS bro I wish, I don't remember what it was called. But, you can look up your sewing machine model and dive down the youtube rabbit hole! Do you need to know anything in particular?
@@Sage-qd6tf I am so far down that RUclips rabbit hole... 🤦♀️
I was just wondering about the possibility of buying replacements. Mine did not look that bad. I finally decided to remove the spring-y holder. I couldn't get the red felt out. It doesn't look too bad, so I'm currently soaking it in soapy water to maybe get rid of some oil, then I'll let it dry thoroughly.
Andy, thank you for this video! I have an old german Singer 66 and you give me knoledge about filz for oiling hook. Pardon me for my bad english.
Glad to help and your English is just fine.
Best instruments video I've seen on the old singer machine ,how do hyou know what model you have
Thanks, Bud. These pages at SInger support show how to find a model number (if there is one) on different machines:
www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model Many older (black iron) machines have a serial number only. It's normally on top of the bed in front of the upright arm that has the stitching controls. With that serial number, you can go to ISMACS and look it up to find the model number: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html BTW, with a model number you can download a FREE copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer Support page at this link: www.singer.com/support
I was given a 99K Singer recently. I need to find a manual to find how to operate this beautiful old lady.
Congratulations! A free copy of the manual can be found towards the bottom of this Singer Support page: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 All 20 of my videos for the model are in a playlist here:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Happy Sewing!
Hi Andy, just got my 99K out yesterday then found your video, thank you so much. You are a great teacher. Where did you find the spring screw driver that held the set screw? I've searched the internet and can only find the style with the claw at the tip. I like the one you have that holds the screw by the slot. Thanks again, you saved my 99K, I won't mention what I was doing about that red felt before I watched your video. Thankfully I did no harm.
I've heard some pretty funny red felt stories. Those are HJJ LOS GATOS vintage screw holding screwdrivers. The company has been closed for decades. You can find them sometimes on eBay like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/255067604556?hash=item3b6336c64c:g:B2AAAOSwb3Rg~z4O A tech lady recently started a company named after her grandpa's old company and she makes these kind of screwdrivers but with a hexagon plastic handle instead of brass. I bought some and did a video a couple of weeks ago about them. The owner offers my viewers 10% off thru 8-16-2021 Here is the video ruclips.net/video/ABALaSruihA/видео.html Here is her website fhelm.com/ FYI here is a playlist of all 19 videos I made for model 99K ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Welcome to Andy Tube and thanks for watching.
Do you have to take the part off where the needle goes to do this?
No, not at all. I have an entire playlist (20 videos) about working on the 99K. In previous videos, I took out the presser bar and the needle bar, and the needle clamp. I thought it would be a good time to record the bobbin area videos with a better view is all.
The Playlist is here if you are interested: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
Thanks for keeping your machine in service, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks for answering! Enjoy your videos, thanks for taking the time to make them!
@@mikem970 Surely! I appreciate you watching my channel.
Having the feed dog easily adjustable makes for easier darning and machine embroidery. This is nice when you don't happen to have the darning plate for this machine.
I agree, Jenanne. It is easier to adjust on this model than many others I have worked on. Thanks for commenting. ✨Take care.
Hi Andy. I'm in a pickle. I purchased this machine and didn't realize the bobbin just for the bobbin is missing. Do you know where I can purchase one? Thank you so much.
"Oscillating Hook Bobbin Case" SInger/Simanco Part #32590
The cheapest one today: www.ebay.com/itm/175362734266?hash=item28d46ef8ba:g:wzoAAOSw8Ixgksyt
The best one today: www.ebay.com/itm/224533399531
Both sellers are trusted.
Here are all my 99K videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
It's a great machine. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you so very much!
@@catdee9981 Sure thing and good luck.
Great video Andy; I leant a lot. My problem is that the thread keeps breaking, I suspect something is wrong with the bobbin assembly, or hook. After watching this I now understand how it works but I'm not sure I have the confidence / tools to take it apart. If the hook in the bobbin area has a burr, what do you think is the best way to sharpen / remove the burr?
Welcome to andy tube, Mike. You do not need to remove many parts to test/repair a hook burr. It is more common than people realize for the hook/ hook point to have a little burr from a needle strike or from using metallic thread. So I made this 12-minute video about testing and fixing hook burrs. All you need is 6 inches of thread (nice if it's cotton) and some very fine sandpaper. If you find the burr, just give it a shoe shine. This is an OSMG fix (Old Sewing Machine Guy), and nowadays people would probably use a Dremel or some other tool, but it is hard to ruin a hook point with a strip of sandpaper, You could, but you'd have to be very determined. Anyway, here is the burr video: ruclips.net/video/us1sHv1-2Kc/видео.html
I hope it helps and thanks for watching my channel. Don't be a stranger now, OK?
Andy this is so helpful. I have restored my grandmother's 99 with your help. Thank you!! I was sewing and every 30 stitches or so, the needle thread gets caught around the race at the top of the oscillating hook. It is really tight. Once you get the bobbin and case out the thread pulls right out. Any suggestions?
It seems odd that you get so many stitches before it happens. I guess I would do a close inspection of the hook, hook race, and bobbin case looking for burrs or something catching the thread. I would also try a different bobbin. I'm thinking this b/c the thread releases once you pull out the bobbin/case.
Hi Andy, Superb video and incredibly helpful - thank you. My bobbin case position bracket screw has been tampered with over time (chewed screw head) and I'm sure it's not set up right as the bobbin thread gets stuck sometimes and all tangled. Do you know the procedure for setting this piece up successfully?
This is a comment on this same page from viewer Roger Foster explaining what I call the thread cleance gap between the bobbin case and cushion spring:
Roger Foster
6 months ago (edited)
great video for seeing what is actually going on in there, the only thing I noticed is you seem to have way too much slack between the bobbin case & the bobbin case bracket making a clacking noise.
if you loosen screw the screw on the bobbin case bracket (the one you move to the right to remove the bobbin case & left to lock it in) the screw they tell you never to remove, you can adjust the distance between the heel of the bobbin case & the cushion spring on the bracket with it in the bracket latch in the locked position & the bobbin case pulled fully left over the race for a gap of .010 to .015 of an inch between the heel & the cushion spring then tighten the screw down again, you can just pull the bobbin case fully to the left & measure the gap with a feeler gauge to see if it needs adjusting
@@andytubesewing1953 Ah! Thanks Andy. I'll give Mr Foster's set-up procedure a try and see how I go. Thanks for replying and pulling this advice from your comments section for me. =)
@@chillidowg9860 okay chilli I hope you figure it out and sorry I don't have any first hand knowledge of how to do it
Andy, Please help. I didn't take the bobbin plate off and I've been trying to get it back on for days. I just spent a half hour trying to slide it back on in the way you said in the video would be "quite easy" . It is not so I'm wondering what issues this (new to me) 99 could be having. Could the plate or more likely the spring be damaged? Thank you for any advice you can give me. And thank you for this video. I have a few 99s and am always trying to learn more about them.
I figured it out. Took the spring off, cleaned it and turned it around and then it worked.
@@pattywest8371 Good to know for reference. Thanks for sharing.
What is the tool you use at the 20:04 minute mark? I need one of those!!
It's so handy at times. That is a vintage brass-sheathed spring screwdriver made by HJJ CO in LOS GATOS, CA. Long out of business
Sometimes you find them on eBay like this: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=hjj+co+screwdriver&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=hjj+co&_osacat=0
Otherwise, many folks buy a modern set made by KLIEN TOOLS like this: www.zoro.com/klein-tools-screwdriver-set-slotted-screw-holding-3-piece-sk234/i/G2070957/ Another old company that made similar is called quick-wedge tools. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=2356+%26+1736&_sacat=0
Andy, I think you meant 1.18mm not 118mm for the feed dog height, you left out the decimal points from your feeler gauges. 118mm would be nearly 5 inches, 25.4 mm to an inch.
You mean the feed dog in the UK does not stand 5 inches above the throat plate? Haha. I stand corrected and thanks for letting me know. I'll pin yur comment on top so others may see it.
Thanks for watching. Take Care.
My motor is a BU7-c 6 amp. Have you opened one of those up? It's on my 99 without tension disc dial.
Very helpful. Thank you!
I'm glad you found it. Thanks for letting me know.
Andy, my 99k is noisy in the bobbin area while the stitches on both sides are beautiful. Seems like there’s too much slack between the bobbin case and bracket. I tried adjusting the bracket by loosening the screw and moving the bracket. Is there another way to adjust the space between the bobbin case and the bracket? My Spartan is so much more smooth sounding. Thanks for any feedback.
Sent you a PDF with instructions. Good Luck, Rhonda, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 got it, thanks Andy, that was very helpful for the needed adjustment.
@@rhondamercado7527 Very welcome. Not sure why I did not show that adjustment in the video. So much to video; so little time I guess. Take care.
Love your video , I took mine apart and there was no funnel spring but the threads are there. Where can I get one? Thanks.
I've never seen one for sale. I don't know if you could modify a store-bought spring by stretching it. People sell used parts on eBay, but you may have to buy other parts of the bobbin area with it.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy, I'm going to try a spring from a pen.
@@maryalbaugh2066 Oh, you are a natural at this, huh? That is a brilliant 💡 idea, Mary. A pen spring may be light enough to reshape, but firm enough to hold a piece of felt for oil. I like it! Next thing you know you'll be posting a short video about how to do it. 👍Let me know
@@andytubesewing1953 nah, I’ll leave the video making to you. 😄
@@maryalbaugh2066 Oh... too bad. I think it would be a great idea. If possible could you let me know how it turns out? Best of luck.
Thank you for this video. I just found a deal on this model and it is frozen. The presser foot lever is stuck in the down position. The needle bar of course is frozen too. I have been using blaster to try and free it up. No success.i read that clearing the bobbin area should be first task. What do you recommend to free a stuck screw. The one you removed after removing the feed dog.
I'm not sure clearing the bobbin area should be the first task, but up to you. On any stuck screw, I use oil & heat first to try and break it free.
There is also a method of tapping the screwdriver a couple of sharp raps while trying to turn it. That can break it free and get it moving. Usually, patience is the key.
If the presser bar is frozen, then I'd think the needle bar is also. Just the stuck needle bar can prevent everything from turning on the machine. If I have a frozen 99K I oil all the factory oil points and use a hairdryer. Let is sit for hours and oil again, etc.
If oil and heat do not free up the machine the first thing I work on is the needle bar. No matter what it takes I get it off the machine b/c I always clean it anyway. Many times getting that needle bar moving has solved the frozen machine problem for me.
If the machine is still stuck after removing the needle bar, I'd want to know if it is the upper or lower parts (or both) so I would disconnect one of the pitman rods on the bottom to separate the upper and lower mechanics. Like in the video at about 22:20 ruclips.net/video/JknRDA1rSVU/видео.html
With the pitman rod loosened I/d try turning the handwheel b/c now the upper part is disconnected from the lower. If the handwheel still won't turn you have something other than (or in addition to) the bobbin area parts. If the handwheel turns now then you know it is something down below, maybe the hook system. Good Luck.
Hello! I have a machine exactly like this one in the video, minus mine being electric.
Okay so my presser foot always also stuck, but mine was stuck in the up position. Basically, I called my uncle (he knows sewing machine stuff, kinda) and together, me him and my dad wiggled the entire bar of the presser foot right out. We used wax and grease remover and kinda dripped it in from the top where the knob for the presser foot on the top of the machine. Also, I recommend taking off the plate on the side of the machine, I got no idea what it's called but it's on the top left of the machine and you loosen a screw (which is handy dandy in the fact that you loosten it with your fingers) and then slide the plate up and off. I'd also say take a picture of what's in there once you take that off before you fiddle around with it. Anyways, we basically broke the rod loose by smacking it with the back of a screwdriver and then unscrewing it with pliers since it was all gummed up. Then we cleaned everything with wax and grease remover.
My needle rod wasnt seized thank god, but yesterday my machine started sticking in one particular spot and my my magical mechanic intuition, I figured out that it was sticking somewhere below the bobbin area. Just kidding, I figured that out by holding my finger on various spots and figuring out which ones had the most vibration prior to breaking the thing loose again. The problem was a screw on the bottom and again I have no idea what the clscrew us called, however, it's the screw which is on the other end of that bracket thing that is shaped like this thing ). Theres a massive screw on one end, and that is not the screw that was stuck, but the screw on the other end.
I hope that helped and if theres anything that was confusing just let me know. Also, I suggest googling it and looking on some antique sewing machine forums if you havent already. Sometimes there are some useful diagrams.
Hi Andy, I just bought a 99k , your videos are very helpful. Thank you! Where can I buy a new belt and a bobbin cover plate?
Congratulations and hope you love your 99K. This is probably the biggest online seller of parts, so they get a lot of business:
www.sewingpartsonline.com/ I've been buying from this vendor for many years with complete satisfaction and service,
www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-99-parts/products/singer-bobbin-cover-part-32569-fits-model-66-66-1-66-16-99-99k-185-192-285 www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-99-parts/products/original-style-motor-v-belt-singer-part-193067 That is also where I I bought the LED screw-in bulb for my 99K that you see in my video.
There are also many sellers on eBay now and I do not shop much on Amazon, but I'm told they have a lot of parts sellers there now also. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks again!
@@junejiang7647 Sure, and I'm happy for you buying your 99K. I really like this model and you can do any work needed to keep it running forever (almost) Take Care.
Hi Andy, I need help. I followed your video on how to replace the red felt Oiler in the cone shaped spring of a Singer 99. I have a Singer 66, and decided to clean the assembly where this spring inserts. Needless to say when I unscrewed the already loosened pin holding the bobbin lift mechanism, the spring flew out! I did take a couple of pictures, so I know where parts go, but I can’t get the tiny spring to fit back in place correctly. Can you help?
I don't have the machine any longer to take a close look at the mechanism. I do have some parts list w/ pictures and numbers and it looks like there is a screw stud that holds the spring onto the lift lever. They are not very clear pictures b/c it is a xerox copy, but you are welcome to have the manuals if you think they would help. Email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask him for the Model 66 parts manuals.- if you'd like them.
Hi Andy , the top of the small screw that holds the small metal plate / spring that the bobbin cover on the Singer 99 K slides on to is broken off ....any advice as to how I can remove the rest of the broken screw .. Regards, Fintan in Ireland
Ouch. It's a decent size screw to work with. Put some oil ow wd40 on it to soak first. If any of the screw sticks up you can try something like in this video: ruclips.net/video/8RveJhE_CcM/видео.html If it broke off flush with the hole you can try a version of this method: ruclips.net/video/8RveJhE_CcM/видео.html Anything with a sharp point will work. I've had viewers tell me they used epoxy or similar to JB WELD to glue another screw to the top of the broken one, then unscrew the new screw bringing the old one with it. Super careful with this method so you don't glue the old screw into the hole 👀 Finally, I had a small screw like yours broken down inside the hole. I used a very small metal drill bit to drill a shallow hole in the broken screw, NOT in the center. You know, a metal punch off-center for a drill bit starter, then used a 1/64th inch bit and drilled a 1/32nd inch deep hole, then used a nail at an angle into that hole (like my video) to tap the screw counterclockwise; around, and around and up and out. It ruined the bit but that is much cheaper than the new screw will cost if you can even find one. Screw 226J, 56 TPI, Singer Tap TE517, Alternate Tap #3 UNF.
Thanks for your prompt reply
@@boradruma No worries. Good Luck.
Hey Andy how are you I just got a Mid-State vintage sewing machine model 6 Ms 11 20 can't find it anywhere so I was trying to find out how old my machine was and if it was a spin off from singer
There was no spin-off from Singer per se. There were a couple dozen companies, mostly in Japan, that made clones of the Singer machines after WWll. Mostly models 15, 66, and 99. There may not have even been a Mid-State "company" but a factory that made clones and "Badged" them for the buyers which were usually department stores or supply companies. Sears, Mongomery Wards, JC Penny, Western, etc. If you have access to an Android cellphone you can use the Picture Search function and I'm betting the pictures that come up would be SInger Model 66 or 99. Something like this: offerup.com/item/detail/537560721 On these Japan-made machines the Singer parts would often work for replacement and vice-versa. There are stories I've read that the US Government gave the blueprints of some of the SInger Models to Japan after WWll to aid them in the reconstruction of their economy/country.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you very much for responding the picture I pulled up that you sent me is identical but the plate does not say Precision it says Deluxe made in Japan made in Occupied Japan to be exact so the table that it sits in is identical to that one everything's identical except for that name plate and it's a 6ms 11:20 and I can't find that anywhere really
@@marilynaldridge7735 That is my exact point. Made in Japan by one of the 20 or 30 companies. They did not last long or keep records and were quickly absorbed by large companies like Toyota and Mitsubishi. The exact machine you have may have also had 3 or 4 other "Badges" or names. They are actually decent machines but mostly impossible to find information about.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you
Just got a 99 that we're cleaning up & re-wiring so this was very helpful! Where did you get the thingamagig that holds the screw on so you can screw it in without losing it? I've needed one for years!
They were given to me. There vintage, but you can buy modern ones. They are called screw-starters, screw-holding screwdriver, or Quick_Wedge screwdriver. A friend recently bought this set and told me they work well: www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-3-Piece-Screw-Holding-Screwdriver-Set-SK234/100648025
Best of luck with your Model 99.
Dear Andy pls help I have 185k singer sewing machine the bobbin case on the machine kept moving when sewing so was trying to take it out to see what the problem was but it was stuck so took out the screw on the bobbin case position bracket I didn't have the instruction book at hand at the time now found it and read that the screw must not be loosened the loosening of the screw will change the clearance for the thread between the bobbin case and the bobbin case position bracket how can I fix this problem will be grateful for your advice it's a lovely sewing machine I've tryed put everything back in position but it won't sew will be grateful for your advice.
Salim, I would check that the bobbin case is the correct part number 32590. @ 15:30 in this video I talk a little about that screw "E" and that it is used to set the thread clearance. If the clearance is too small the thread gets stuck. If the clearance is too big the bobbin bounces and is loud. Usually, when a customer comes to me with a "Moving Bobbin Case" I find the bobbin case was not installed properly. I'm not saying that is the reason for your problem, only that it is a possibility. All I can advise is you follow the reinstallation of the parts in this video starting @ 40:00. Special attention to 45:00 thru 47:30 installing the bobbin case. This one is tricky even for me and it took me 3 or 4 tries to get the case on the hook race properly. Once all the parts are installed correctly you can test the machine to see if screw "E" needs adjustment. If so then take a look at this video of a different machine and setting the thread clearance. ruclips.net/video/OXKqZp87eN4/видео.html This gives you an idea of how to set the clearance. I have no document that says what the thread clearance on a model 185 should be. Most vintage Singer machines have a cleance of between .012" to .018", or about .31 to .45 MM.
You want an adjustment that lets the needle thread pass through the space between the bobbin case and the bracket, but not too much space which makes the bobbin case "jump"' and be very noisy.
Hi Andy. Which vintage do u personally believe is the toughest most dependable machine you have worked on. A WORKHORSE type. That can handle heavy thick upholstery fabrics??
Remembering that these are domestic (home) sewing models and not industrial, my immediate answer is the model 404 heavy-duty slant needle straight stitch sewing machine. In this comparison video I discuss this model 404 starting at 21:50. ruclips.net/video/CjLe24c9xfY/видео.html Direct drive gear driven motor, ( not motor belt) all steel gear hook drive system (no timing belt).
internal .7AMP motor. I like this model so much I did a 56 video playlist for restoring it step-by-step. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI
Keep it clean and lubricated and replace the motor brushes every 25 years. This is an under-rated model, but I love it and the front, top drop-in class 66 bobbin system with a taller presser foot and slant needle system that gives you a better view of the needle into the needle plate (work area) There are many other hard-working models you could look at also, like the 15-91 and the 201. This model 99K (in this video you commented on) is strong and takes up to a size 21 needle 👀 (larger than the 404 can) and it is only a 3/4 size copy of the model 66. So, 15-91, 66, 99, 404, and all can mount into a Singer cabinet or custom work table. They cal all use a walking foot attachment for sewing layered, thick material
If you want to reupholster a house full of furniture, any of these models will do. If you are opening an upholstery business you're better of in the long run to buy an industrial machine.
Very informative
thanks
I just got a 99 singer it has a bent arm piece on the treaded where is best place to find parts
For used vintage parts, I find many on eBay and www.thriftyfarmgirl.com/ For "new" parts like springs, bobbins, tires, rubber feet, cords, etc. I have used this seller for many years www.vintagesingerparts.com/ Some sellers on eBay also offer parts like that. The last choice for new stuff is www.sewingpartsonline.com/ Their quality is fine and they have a large selection but, IMO, they are pricey with slower service. They are probably the largest seller of parts. Thanks for watching my channel
Hi Andy, love your Singer videos! I just picked up a 1956 Singer 99k and am cleaning it up. I was hoping to send you photos but I can’t here. I am looking at the bobbin case from the top and it has two pointy projections at the end near the dogs, enclosing a small indentation. Here’s my question. When I turn the case on it’s side and view it, the longer pointy is twisted a wee bit upwards (about 0.7 mm to make it a little higher than the smaller pointy. Is this the way the case is manufactured or has the longer one been twisted up? In which case I will have to flatten it to match the plane of the smaller one. I hope my explanation is clear. I look forward to your reply with much thanks! Gordon
email is andytube53@gmail.com for pictures. I think I know what you are talking about. At 14:17 in this video I have my right index finger on the long point. If this is what you mean, I believe both points should be level, so they sit properly and the hook race can go back and forth on the bobbin holder/case. This style of bobbin holder/case has been used on several model generations of Singer machines including the 99, 185, 237,401,403,404,500A,503A, etc. I have some of those cases in stock and just looked at 4 of them. They all had flat, level points.
How did you get the factory setting information for things such as the feed dog height?
Recently purchased an earlier 99K with no reverse and taking it apart alongside your immensely helpful videos. Thanks for all the hard work Andy!
Every SInger machine had a Service, Repair or Adjustment Guide issued for it. There are sellers online and eBay who will sell you paper copies or downloads. There are services that sell downloads like this one: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-66-99-185-sewing-machine-adjusters-manual/ There are document sharing groups you can join and people upload and download documents that can include ones like this written by the Tools for Self Reliance charity group: www.scribd.com/document/355688276/How-to-refurbish-sewing-machines-TFSR-Refurbishment-Guide That guide is very good for a few models including the 99. It does not have some of the technical specs that the SInger document will have. If you'd like to support the charity you can buy the manual directly from them: www.tfsr.org/product/sewing-machine/ So if I need a manual for service I usually search for it free online somewhere. Most of the eBay sellers did that and then are reselling it to you. If I can not find it free then I search for the best price for buying it on eBay or other online sources. I do not belong to any sewing groups but there are many of them; Yahoo, Facebook, etc. I would think that members of those groups would share service and instruction manuals, but I don't belong to them so just a guess. Thanks for saving the 99K. It was fun, right? Ready for another? Check out my Playlist pages with over 500 videos for working on Vintage SInger Machines you may see another model that interests you. ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public Thanks for watching my channel and Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 That is so very helpful, all these links you have provided are spot on. Scribd TFSR refurb guide is the coolest thing, I never knew these existed.
Buying the manual direct is a good shout to support them as well as joining social media communities.
I am ready for the next one! Thanks a bunch.
@serendipidus1 thanks for watching my channel
Very nice!
Thanks for the visit
Thank you for this Andy.
I purchased a very tatty Singer 66 recently and now dismantling and cleaning with your help but the mechanism that I'm finding really interesting is the stitch length. I can just about see how Singer have done this by changing the rise (gradient) of a cam ( in the area below the spool holder pin.) I'd like to use this machine for auto leather upholstery, and I know it's capable of it, but it would be great for the stitch length to be increased a little beyond the designed maximum. Any thoughts on this please Andy before I 'donate' this machine to experiment?
I've never worked to lengthen the stitch on a 99K. I know a few fellows who have done so on a 404 and 403A. The feed regulator controls the length, and by removing the indicator plate (in one case filing out a longer slot in the indicator plate) they have removed the limit the plate puts on length. You do not gain much length before the feed dog starts hitting the hook parts or the back of the inside of the machine below the hook. Both fellows were using the machines to sew sails for their boats, and they said any amount longer made quicker sewing and saved a good amount of thread costs. I suppose the 99K could be modified in this way also as it has a similar type of feed system. The other models have a slightly longer feed regulator and a small slide block while this 99K has a roller that may limit how much length you will gain by removing the indicator plate. Here is a video about the 99K regulator:
ruclips.net/video/OTuoIj0Vx0E/видео.html and here is a video of the regulator on a 403A (same as 404): ruclips.net/video/omHg86F73HY/видео.html
Those videos will show what I'm talking about. Here is the entire playlist of my 99K videos in case you have other issues:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck to you.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for this Andy. The 66 that I have has the block slide and screw regulator. Yes I have realised that if the stitch length was somehow increased then the feed dog would probably hit the inside of the machine and careful grinding may be needed. This could open 'a can of worms' as they say but would of mechanically interest.
Cheers, Anthony
@@ajskilton Yes others have taken a small grinder to the area around the feed dog and hook to make more travel room and done other modifications to get a slightly longer stitch one of my viewers said she finally gave up on the project and bought a $200 used industrial machine that sews like crazy so there's several ways to go for a longer stitch whatever you choose I hope it works out for you thanks for watching my channel and good luck
do you have a video about the bobbin winder?
I sure do ruclips.net/video/kN2QLYxZNv4/видео.html All 19 of my model 99k videos are in this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks, you are a 🌟🤩
@@terristevens5303👍
Andy I just came about getting a Model 99 where can we find small parts for these machines?
Congratulations! If you mean bobbins, needles, bed feet, some presser feet, light bulbs, motor belts, here are a couple of well known dependable dealers www.sewingpartsonline.com/ www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer
If you mean something like a needle bar, feed dog, bobbin winder, light and so forth I buy from sellers on eBay who are parting out a machine. IMO, a used vintage part in good condition is much better than parts made nowadays. Any well-rated seller will do.
Here are the other 18 videos for model 99K on my channel ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Here is where you can download a FREE copy of the instruction manual from SInger
(scroll down) ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Happy sewing, and thanks for visiting my channel.
Thank you very helpful .
I'm glad you found the video. Thanks for commenting. Good Luck.
What do you use to get the stainless steel so clean?
Hi, Lori. Most of the time I use Krud Kutter Original Cleaner and Degreaser by Rust-oleum. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter Usually I just spray, let it sit a minute or so, and rinse with water. For some parts, like the feed dog, I may also use a toothbrush or metal detail brush. If the parts are rusty I will then use a rust remover The Must for Rust, also by Rust-oleum. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor Rarely I find parts that are just extremely dirty and I use an UltraSonic Cleaner.
Where did you find a replacement positioning pad holder, or funnel spring and felt pad as you called it???
I checked Singers Web site and they don't have it.....
I repaired the spring I found in the machine and made the felt pad from a spool pin felt pad.
@@andytubesewing1953 If the spring is beyond repairable where might I be able to find a replacement?
You said you had link for size. I pulled out thinking jammed fabric. Then watched video. Oops My spring in good need help cutting pad please
Could you please help me? I have just got a Singer Serial Number AL458820. It's a 66 Model, according to the Singer Data Base. But it has a bobbin system just like that one.
Well, yes, your machine is a Model 1966 ordered in 1953. Yes, it has a bobbin system just like my model 99K. Singer model 99 is a 3/4 size model 66. The parts are the same. My model 99K just has a smaller. lighter body. Think of it as a "portable" model 66. If you want to learn more about our machines here is a link to my Playlist of 19 videos about removing, replacing, adjusting, cleaning, oiling, and so forth. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z My videos can be used for your model 66. Was that the help you were looking for? Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for that! I would surely love to find a 99 in Brasil. This 66 I got for "decoration only", since the bobbin system is not complete. A technician told me I have a "relic". For Brazil, yes.
@@vaccavo I'd guess there are 500,000 model 66 working around the world. Some sellers of used parts on eBay ship to Brazil. You can download a free copy of the instruction manual if you want to know more about model 66. Here is the page at Singer www.singer.com/search/support?title=66
love
Olá... como se chama essa pequena ferramenta, que usou desde os minutos 20.03 até aos 20.50 mais ou menos...?
É uma chave de fenda HJJ Co. vintage com pontas de aço de mola e tubo de latão. Eles são mais difíceis de encontrar agora e mais dinheiro: www.ebay.com/itm/384518752372?hash=item59871a8874:g:eE8AAOSwtKFhnJNs Uma nova empresa agora faz uma cópia com aço de mola e corpo de plástico: www.ebay.com/itm/303983158657?hash=item46c6cee581:g:SR0AAOSwxltgjySV
Existem outros tipos de arrancadores de parafuso de um estilo diferente. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=screw+starter+screw+driver&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=HJJ+SCREWDRIVER&_osacat=0
Obrigado Andy Tube... não imaginei que responderia tão rápido... cumprimentos, João Pestana
@@joaopestana4800 Seu timing foi bom, pois eu estava no computador. Obrigado por assistir meu canal. Tome cuidado.
@@andytubesewing1953 obrigado eu... cuide-se bem, cumprimentos aqui de Portugal...
@@joaopestana4800 Ok amigo você se cuida também. Todos esperamos um bom ano em 2022.
I have just bought my first ever vintage Singer... a 1939 99K and that screw which Singer warns never to play with... on top of the latch pin in the bobbin area... has marks that show someone has opened it up. I'm scared. Its not sewing at all... isn't forming the back of a stitch. This video has at least shown me other things I can check but that screw is haunting my nightmares
Congratulations; it's a very nice model. There is a very slim (not impossible) chance that the last pin adjustment is causing your machine to "skip" stitches. It is more likely that the timing is off. Timing is the way the needlepoint aligns to the hook point so as to catch the needle thread, wrap it around the bobbin thread, and form the lock stitch. It is easy to check the timing and not difficult to correct if it is off. Here is the link to my entire 20 video Playlist for model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z If you look down that list you will find this video for checking/setting the timing: ruclips.net/video/9zU1_VjMddQ/видео.html That is what I would check after checking that you installed the needle facing the proper direction and threaded the needle correctly. That info is in the Instruction Manual that is available for FREE from the Singer USA SUpport page at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 (try the one listed as 99-13) Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
how do you adj. the thread position part . i removed the screw that you shoudent remove . the thread passes throw .help
So, Chet, you removed the latch screw? The big silver one between the bobbin case and the ejector button? Now you want to know how to fix the thread clearance? Haha, you are a guy after my own heart. So when everything is reassembled and you have the screw back in place, do not tighten it up yet. Singer does not list the gap setting, but most of the vintage machines I have done have a gap between the bottom corner of the bobbin case and the cushioning spring of between .012 and .016 inches. That would be a good place to start. With the latch screw loosened place your feeler gauge between the bobbin case and the cushion spring. Using a small screwdriver or stick between the top of the bobbin case and the latch to move the latch (and the cushion spring that is attached to it) against your guage until you have the gap you want, then keep it in place while you tighten up that latch screw all the way. What you want is a gap that allows the thread to slip between the bobbin case and spring as the hook takes it around. If the gap is too small the thread can hang there and skip stitches or make a big birds nest. If the gap is too big the bobbin case will "slam" loudly back and forth with each stitch. Of course, you want something just right. You may have to adjust it 2 or 3 times until you get a gap you like. Use a feeler gauge each time so you know what gap you are setting. Say you start with a .014 gap and it's too small then you can try a .016 or .018 next time. If .016 was too big, then try .014 or .012 and retest the stitching quality. Here is a video of the procedure on a model 404. The parts are shaped a little different, but the principle of setting the correct thread gap is the same. ruclips.net/video/OXKqZp87eN4/видео.html
Take it easy with that screwdriver Chet and stay out of trouble.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy there must be thousands of people who still get a family machine handled down. mine is from 1941., and think give it a clean hover out the dust and just jump for the screwdrivers .with good intent. sadly not many instructions are with the machines. the craftsmen/ women who put them together. Your videos are extension to that ,and are keeping the machines alive .big thanks .
@@cdreynolds1 I'm glad you found the video. It's great you are maintaining the family machine! Thanks for the comment and come back soon.
I got 1 20. dollars ,but I have fabric cot in it
Can't get it work
@@autoliv4 Fabric or the thread is caught? I'm not sure exactly what you mean. If the thread is caught and handwheel will not turn you can remove/loosen the motor belt and try turning the handwheel backward or away from you. At 10:00 in this video ruclips.net/video/CsWvFjjmK5E/видео.html you get an idea of raising the motor to slip the belt off, then it is ok to turn the handwheel backward. You can also go under the hook to try and ct thread if it shows there. I can't imagine cloth is caught in the machine. Where? Sorry, I'd like to help but not sure what you are asking. Ask again in your normal language and try to explain.
7
on a scale of 10?
Thank you for this video!
Glad if it helped you. Here are my other 18 videos for Model 99K if you have other issues ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z thanks for watching my channel and happy sewing. (nice artwork BTW ✨)
Thanks Andy! I went I’m going through your video list. I have a hand crank version but would love a electric 99K. I’m looking out for one.
@@MonaTurnbull Singer sold the light & motor as a kit at one point in time, allowing you to convert your hand-crank machine to electric. My wife did that to a 99 many years ago. Thanks so much for watching my channel.