Sure it helps! Good information is always wanted and thanks for sharing that on my channel. 🙏 If you'd care to link the webpage I will allow it to be posted. I'll pin your comment to the top so others will see it first. Thanks again and take care.
@@y.d.343 here it is, www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/tension also I found via thefeatherwight shop a bobbin tension meter to have make sure the tension is accurate. I use it to set up the tension on my machines so they are all the same
@@y.d.343 bluediva relied to your request. The bobbin tension meter she mentioned is the same one I use in the video and you can find it here if interested: TENSION METER: singer-featherweight.com/collections/accessories/products/bobbin-tension-meter?variant=19186920963
I was a good year stitcher in the hay days of American shoe manufacturing later 1950 sewing soles and welts to shoes I had to learn the adjustments and as I recall this was a finicky one. I’m now 83 and forgot most of it. Thanks for posting❤️
Awesome Andy, I never thought that bobbin tension would create that noise! I thought it was the play of the case in the hook. I’m going to go back now and work with my bobbin tension. Thank you so very much!
hi Laura it can definitely be the play of the case in the hook and that's the first thing we check when we hear noisy bobbin area but it can also be the tension on that little bobbin spring too. I'm so glad you found the video thank you for taking the time to leave such a nice comment. take care 😊
Yet another patiently explained and clearly defined all-important 'below deck' potential problem area. As you address each of these specific issues in your logical and calm manner the whole of the machine's operation becomes progressively easier to understand. Can't begin to tell you how great your approach is to achieving, or melding the various mechanical adjustments into one cohesive picture of harmonious orchestration. Yours is a great gift my friend. Thank you for sharing it so ably. Mike Kirwan - Kenmore, WA
Early on I was fascinated with how a sewing machine's parts must work in unison. The timing of the hook, needle, takeup lever, and feed must be perfect. It is a complicated process when you first think about it and realize what is going on. It helped me a lot to just work on one part or system at a time to learn what I could about it. When I realized the timing between the needle bar and feed dog it started making sense to me and it went on from there. You're very perceptive to the harmony of the machine. I enjoy your comments very much. Thanks for watching.
That was great. Thanks for all the time and work you did to make it. I have a 99K being shipped to me now and your videos will be a resource of help for many years to come.
@@andytubesewing1953 Evening Andy. I’ve followed your brilliant video on bobbin adjustment. I’ve got the opposite problem in that I can’t screw the bobbin any tighter (but it needs to be). Do you have any suggestions about what I can do in this instance. It’s a little 99k. God bless, J
@@juliedickson1856 You must be talking about the tension adjustment screw? If it is all the way tight and that is not enough tension it could be a couple of things. There may be lint dust and smudge caught between the tension spring and the side of the bobbin case. Even though it is a model 99 machine the bobbin case is a "Class 66". Here is a video about cleaning it. ruclips.net/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/видео.html As in most of my videos I go to the extreme and show a complete teardown, etc. Sometimes all you need is to loosen the screw a little and work a piece of dental floss (unwaxed) or some heavier thread under the spring and floss it back and forth to get anything in there to come out. Another possibility is the spring itself is bent away from the case and even with the screw tight the spring is not tight against the case and that prevents good thread tension. The spring can get bent by someone yanking the thread out when it is tangled in the bobbin case/hook, or from prying behind the spring with a needle trying to get gunk out. Replacement springs are very hard to find so if I come across a bent spring I try to carefully (very) flatten it back out a little. I use a wooden stick or plastic card to try that. Lastly, the screw may be damaged and although tight it may not be going in all the way. I pull out the screw and look at it with a magnifying glass trying to see if the threads are damaged or really dirty. If needed you CAN buy a new screw. www.vintagesingerparts.com/search?q=Bobbin+Case+Tension+Adjusting+Screw+-+Fits+Singer+Models+66+%26+99 Good luck, Julie.
Hi Andy.... Lovin your videos my friend. I watched this one and I immediately went to eBay and got me one of those scales ordered up. You are such a great guy taking the time to put these videos out there for folks like me who are interested in doing this stuff. I love working on these old machines and getting them back in shape. Take care and be safe out there.
I use it on every machine if I can find where I left it. A good tool. With the machines you already have and more coming you will get your money's worth of use I think. Be safe.
Thanks for watching. I have used this often for the bobbin case. The upper tension I can usually do just by feel now. When I first got the meter I would practice setting by feel and then measure with the meter and I got better and better, but on the bobbin case, I just never got the feel for it and happily use the meter. There are much better meters but they cost much, much more.
Those Apollo set ups are notorious for being noisy I found that scale on ebay for the same price with about $2.60 shipping, I think it must be the Featherweight shop too. I can see where it will save on time and thread, I've gotten pretty good at going by feel too, but I waste a lot of thread and time doing it.
I love comments like this, Tony. Thanks for taking the time to let me know. I always feel "justified" for spending time and energy when I know that the video can help people out. Happy New Year and happy sewing.
I have been using a AA size battery for one ounce of weight. I just tape the thread to the battery and adjust the thread tension so just a light pull and the thread comes out. I am not exactly sure the weight on a AA battery, but I hope it is close to one ounce.
An AA size battery weighs about .8 ounces. I don't think the difference will matter too much. The whole thing with tension is that it must be balanced to form a correct lock stitch. The needle thread tension unit is made to be adjusted easily and that is to compensate for the bobbin case thread tension, size of the thread, sewing project, type of stitch, etc. So if your bobbin thread pull is about .8 OZ then that should easily be matched by the tension unit and if the bobbin thread was 1.4 OZ then the tension unit would need a little more tension. I think your method is great! If you feel the pull is good and then the stitch forms nicely you have a perfect balance, so congrats!!
On the Featherweight Shop website where I bought mine they call it a "Bobbin Tension Meter", but I also see it on Amazon listed as a "Postal Scale, small & portable analog weight detection device". I guess it's one of the few "dual-purpose" tools I have now. Thanks for watching my channel. Take Care.
You're very right about the bobbin tension relation to the noise it makes when sewing, but maybe im wrong too but i do think the motor contributes a little to the noise too :/
Yes, there is noise from the motor, but it is a distinctive buzzing sound. Whenever I clean and polish the commutators there is often this buzzing sound until the motor brushes "re-seat" or conform back to the clean commutator. The noise I comment on in the video was the bobbin case hitting the bobbin case position bracket spring too hard. I noticed after I made the video that my camera microphone really picked up the buzz of the motor. I tried moving the camera around to see if it would pick up more of the bobbin case noise and less of the motor buzz, but it did not make it better so I posted up my original filming. Sigh ... I'm mostly happy with my new little $189 camera but the mic is sensitive to high pitch sounds and I can't force it to flash when I want bright pictures. When I win the lottery I plan to set up a better "studio" and camera system, but don't hold your breath. Thank you very much for watching Andy Tube and taking the time to comment. Take Care.
Hi Andy My mother in law had a 99k singer sewing and I was wanting to keep it , but I am having a hard time running it . The shuttle is completely different from the ones in the video and I am confused, wish I could post a picture for you to see
Are you sure it is a model 99K? Very early model 99s had a slightly different bobbin case position bracket but not a different shuttle that I ever saw. Could it be a model 101, 201, or even a 15-91? It is not that hard to record a video with your cellphone and upload it to your RUclips page so we all can see the machine and the shuttle system. Here are all 20 videos for model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
Hi, I have the same machine, Singer 99K, thank you for your dedication explaining! I have a problem with the stich length, even if I set the stich length to 6, the size is quite small. I've cleaned the bobbing and check the tension but I cannot archive 6 length stich. Thanks!
Hello, Javier, and sorry you're having this problem. Stitch length is controlled by the Feed Regulator that most people call the stitch length control lever. The Feed Regulator controls how far the feed dog pulls the fabric between needle strokes, so how long the stitch is. If you are not getting the number 6 stitch then something is wrong with the Feed Regulator. Here is the entire playlist for the model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z one of those 19 videos is all about the Feed Regulator: ruclips.net/video/OTuoIj0Vx0E/видео.html Sometimes I have found that the stitch length lever is bent, and if it is bent downward it hits the bottom of the indicator plate before the inside part, the actual regulator, has moved all the way for the number 6 stitch. So the lever and plate say you are set for a 6 stitch, but the inside mechanism may only be moved to 10 or 12 stitches per inch. If that is happening on your machine, you can try to straighten the lever, maybe using a vise, or you can buy a used part on eBay and replace it. Take a look at the video and you'll see how to remove the parts for cleaning and replacement. There is a very slight chance that the feed lift and/or feed rock shaft are out of adjustment and the feed dog is not moving properly, but I've only seen that one time after a person was adjusting all kinds of parts on the bottom. I'd look for a bent lever first. Good luck, and thanks for asking such an important question, and for watching my channel. (P.S. Bobbin case has no control over stitch length, BTW)
Hi Andy, I've checked the control lever and it was a little bit (very little ) bent, almost millimetrically, so I oiled it. As well I've changed the spring position of the thread tension (I've had it at 9 o'clock ). Now I have a better length stitch but I will keep cleaning properly and oil it! Thanks for your advice!
@@javiertrancoso4394 Appreciate you letting us know what you found. Good for future reference. So you mean the take-up spring/check spring on the tension unit was causing short stitches before you adjusted it? Thanks again and good luck.
I found on some of my vintage machines that the spring was completely flat. So over adjusted flat that it lifted up and had no tension on the thread. So research said buy a new spring or bobbin. Nah! I too it off and bent it over a pen lightly to get it roundish but them bent it around its own bobbin. So curve matched. Put it back in, perfect. Now there was range to loosen or tighten. I’m just into this with 10 vintage. Feed dog too high on 2 machines and 2 have top tension issues. Zero on one and too tight on the other. I think people mess with all this with no research. If logic dictates. Maybe similar. Something is adjusted so much it erased the tension or made it too tight. The feed dog I know how to do but not sure which screw or rod on my two machines as the video examples I found, one is Andy’s is not my machine. I can only sew on a single piece of paper. Not any fabric at all. I can feel it. Also with 55 years of sewing I can tell by pulling either the top or bottom of it feels right and can pull both at once to feel it too. No need for gadgets. Although that is an interesting one!
With 10 vintage (machines?) and these mad skills you have maybe you should start posting some how-to videos on your channel. Thousands of people are learning to sew during this pandemic, all around the world, and would love to learn some of your techniques and skills. Just think how many do not have access to a tension "gadget" but are having tension issues with grandma's machine they are trying to get back in running condition. Thanks for sharing, and for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, new-er sub here. I am trying to use my featherweight tension meter with my new 99k. Are you tilting the bobbin case so the bobbin doesn’t just fall out? And i can’t budge the screw. Can I put a drop of something on there to help? Was the entire bobbin case one of the items that you soaked in 91% rubbing alcohol? I’m getting overwhelmed with this!
Yes, tilting it b/c it kept trying to tip out while I was filming. Some folks lay the case flat on the table and try pulling the meter to the side. I had trouble doing that, too. So I went with the tilt. You can certainly soak the BC in Alcohol for cleaning, but I don't think that would help with loosening a tight screw. Things I have done for very tight screws are: using a drop of penetrating oil, like WD40. Using heat from a hairdryer for a few minutes which may be hard to do with the BC. I mean you can heat it but will need a glove to pick it up and hold it for loosening the screw. On other smaller parts, I dropped the part in boiling water for a minute or two, plucked it out with tongs, and then used a glove to hold it while loosening a tight screw. A final thing, (I never tried this on a bobbin case) requires someone to hold the case while you tap sharply on the screwdriver while trying to turn. The shock of the tapping can "break free" the screw (you hear a "snick" sound). The Chapman screwdriver set I have includes a mini-rachet that allows me to apply much more torque on a turning screw. chapmanmfg.com/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set Folks have used a small 1/8 or 1/4 inch rachet they had that can hold a screw bit and said it worked the same as the mini rachet by Chapman. It's easy to make mistakes when overwhelmed, I know this to be true. I've learned the hard way to step away instead of damaging a screw head or part on the machines. I've soaked screws overnight many times, etc. It was better than finding a replacement screw, believe me. You can work on other parts of the machine while letting the WD40 soak in. Do some cleaning, oil the whole machine, adjust other parts, etc, or read a good book. Thanks for the Sub, and good luck.
My singer is the 99K model made in January 1936, and it has not got the bobbin tensioner like you have mine is just a nut that you tighten or loosen, my cotton is sewing with lots of loose knots, or it looks like that the top needle is just a straight line, can you help me sort it out please?
You do have the much older style of tension assembly, but the tension principles are still the same. You must balance upper tension (needle thread) with lower tension (bobbin thread) so the lock stitch forms between the layers of fabric. You can watch any of my tension videos, especially the Zero Out part and it applies to your tension assembly; you just do not have a number reference. Be sure the tension assembly is clean and lint & oil free. Thread the assembly but don't go to the needle. If you pull on the thread AFTER the assembly and slowly turn the nut to the right (adding tension) with the foot down you should start to feel tension or resistance on the thread. When you feel just a little tension and the check spring barely moves, that is your Zero or starting tension (almost no tension) if you want to mark that with white out or spitwads of wet paper at 12:00 o'clock you can think of that as the number "0" on your imaginary dial. Then keep turning the nut to the right and pulling slowly on the thread until the thread is hard to pull, maybe 1/2 way around the nut turning or more. Think of that a number "9" or "10" on your dial. With a mark on your tension disc & one on 12:00 o'clock, you can then mark your "9" spot and that should give you you effective range of needle thread tension. You usually have to play with it and get the "feel" of it, but if your great grandma could do it, you can. It's really important that the parts are clean, lint & oil-free, and dry or those tension discs won't "grab" the thread and apply tension. Here is a pretty good tension video I made and if you look for the chapter about zero out you can see what I mean: ruclips.net/video/rioRhSbog6U/видео.html Here is a playlist with several tension videos you can scoot thru if needed: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJtdJxU7i-qpXOpKzU6xtEd to see other ideas about tension, but really the same principles
Hi Andy, you helped me before when I bought one of these second-hand. I was wondering if you would be able to answer another quick question for me. My original light just blew on the machine and blew the fuse on the foot pedal I had ordered for this machine. The fuse in the plug was a 3A fuse but the plug itself states 13A on the plug casing -- it is the original motor in the machine -- can you recommend what size fuse I should be using?
I won't advise on electrical matters as I am not an electrician. I can say about my own electrical system in my home though. The wiring in my walls is rated at 20A. The Breakers (fuses) in my electrical panel is rated at 15A. There are no fuses in any cords here. The original motor on the 99K here, RF5-8 is rated at about 1A. During a high-speed surge, it may draw slightly over the 1A. Your wire (plug) shows 13A capacity meaning it was made to handle up to that much electricity, but the motor, if 110-120V, is probably only 1A, and the light bulb is maybe 8 to 20 Watts. A 3A fuse seems correct. If you have the original cord/fuse I'd use the same. BTW, I've never seen a blown bulb blow a fuse or trip a breaker. I have seen a short in a wire or motor blow plenty of fuses and light bulbs. You feel the bulb blew the fuse but maybe the bulb blew out from a short or overload (surge) of the electrical wires or system that blew out the fuse and bulb. I'd check for a bad cord or wiring in the machine.
Hello Andy, Just a quick question. I don't have an ultra sonic cleaner and my parts do not clean up as pretty as yours. My bobbin case had rust and I wire brushed it all off. However, it still has dark areas on the case. When is it time to replace the case????
The actual case can last a very long time. If there are rough spots inside where the bobbin rotates they can be sanded down. If the ledge the bobbin rides on finally gets worn down enough the bobbin sits too low and the needle thread gets stuck on the case edge while being dragged by the hook, then the case is finished for good. You can buy new tension springs and even the tiny screws online now to replace stripped screws and bent springs. As long as the bobbin case performs there is no need to replace it. I have a spare bobbin case and extra spring for all my wifes' sewing machines. I was told once that the class 66 bobbin case can be replaced with the plastic Apollo bobbin case but I never investigated that possibility.
Just bought one of these models and the bobbin thread gets stuck and won't easily flow through to the top, it catches I get my loop then it goes too stiff to actually sew and just breaks the thread, any ideas what could be causing it? Also, the bobbin cover plate sides on and off with nothing apparently stopping it at a certain position.
It's hard to troubleshoot through the comment section. There are a few things that can cause this. The improper winding of the bobbin. Wrong type bobbin. Too much tension on the bobbin case. Wrong tension on the needle thread tension unit. Damaged hook point (burr), Takeup lever installed wrong. Thread and needle not matching (thread too big for needle eye, etc.) Here are all of my videos for model 99K. There's one for the tension unit and take-up lever. The bobbin area parts video shows the proper installation of the bobbin slide plate. (you may have a loose friction spring or the spring has a broken tip beside it may be installed incorrectly.) Be sure you have the proper class 66 bobbin. Double-check you have wound the bobbin correctly and inserted it into the bobbin case the right way. I usually wind a different bobbin as a test. Pull the needle thread out and start over threading the needle to be sure you took the correct paths. One of the videos covers that. See? It's hard to know exactly without hands on the machine, but those are the things I would be looking at if the machine was on my bench. You can download a FREE copy of the instruction manual from SInger at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi, thanks very much for taking the time to reply, I will have another look at it tomorrow, it is something I did, as I cleaned it all up and it was sewing with just the hand crank (waiting on a pedal and hoping I don't need to replace the motor!) then for some reason I did something, not sure what right now and it stopped sewing and the thread is now being caught underneath the fabric in long strands so back to the drawing board after sleep.
@@andytubesewing1953 I am an idiot, I was threading with the bloody presser foot down!!! Naturally, I figured this only after doing everything else! Obviously, I was having a daft as a brush day. As for the bobbin cover plate, it would appear the little metal bar doesn't catch the grooves on the underside of the plate properly so it pops off too easy, not sure if it would be safe for me to bend them upwards slightly, for now, though I will wait on my pedal arriving to see if the motor is working, least that looks easy enough to replace, all a learning curve :).
@@Angel-vn6wb Every sewist who has sewn a stitch has made that mistake. That's why I said pull the thread out and start over. I mention in the video about people pulling the slide plate up and off the spring and that it can break the tips of the sping. That may be what you have and why the plate slides right off the bed. Just be sure you are getting the spring tips into the slot when installing the slide. You can buy a new replacement friction spring for $4 www.ebay.com/p/672304280
I feel your pain. Trying to move that little screw that's been in place 50+ years can be difficult. I usually don't have to adjust the bobbin case tension, like less than 1 out of 10 machines, but I did on this one due to the loud noise. When I tested sewing on lighter weight fabric the stitches really puckered up more than normal too. Like most mechanical things, don't change a setting unless you need too. Thanks for watching, kathiego233 and I hope you return again.
So I bought a second spare bobbin case for my Singer 500A. I was going to use it for elastic thread in the bobbin for shirring purposes only. So I loosened the screw and no matter how much the tension was still way too tight. I loosened it so much it fell on the floor! LOL! It took about 15 minutes for us to even spot it and then another 10 minutes before I finally managed to get it back onto that spring! I'll work on this more now that I have that ounces and grams tool that you have used. Thank you, Kathy
uhoh. So the small screw holds the spring to the bobbin holder and does not affect the tension. Only the large screw is used to adjust tension. Even the large screw is tiny and I'm impressed you were able to find it after the drop. I never can. If needed you can remove both screws and the spring for cleaning. Replacement parts can be found. www.sewingpartsonline.com/bobbin-case-tension-screw-singer-1172.aspx www.singeronline.com/sibocatesp17.html www.sew4less.com/product/8861/Bobbin_Case_Spring_172202
Hi Andy, Yes my husband could not believe how tiny that larger of the two screws was and he didn't know how I managed to see it on the floor - nor could I... Next time I should put down a wash cloth or something on the table and try to be more careful. Thank you so much! Kathy
Hi, terry. I have had the problem you mention. I did check the bobbin holder thinking it was not the correct one maybe. This is the original bobbin holder/case according to the number on it compared to the Singer Parts list. I'm careful to buy aftermarket bobbins where the center tube does not protrude or stick up out of the side discs. I know that the thread can hang on those as it passes over the bobbin case. For this case, the tension was found to be about 3 oz. instead of the recommended 1 oz. BTW, my 2 retired Singer friends told me plastic class 66 bobbins of good quality are fine to use, are quieter and will not wear down the bobbin holder, FYI we used the plastic ones often. Thanks for discussing this because people don't realize the case or bobbin could be causing trouble or be replacement items of lower quality.
@@redoak3809 Hahaha, now I know you are joking 🤣🤣Did you ever see my face in a video?? Only my hands. There is a reason for that 👀 If you ever change your mind let me know and I'll give a shout-out to my subscribers to check your new videos out. Take care friend.
I managed to find a singer website that tells you the weight should be 1 1/4oz or between 30-40g for bobbin tension on the 99k 201k hope this helps
Sure it helps! Good information is always wanted and thanks for sharing that on my channel. 🙏 If you'd care to link the webpage I will allow it to be posted. I'll pin your comment to the top so others will see it first. Thanks again and take care.
Link please
@@y.d.343 here it is, www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/tension also I found via thefeatherwight shop a bobbin tension meter to have make sure the tension is accurate. I use it to set up the tension on my machines so they are all the same
@@y.d.343 bluediva relied to your request. The bobbin tension meter she mentioned is the same one I use in the video and you can find it here if interested: TENSION METER: singer-featherweight.com/collections/accessories/products/bobbin-tension-meter?variant=19186920963
I was a good year stitcher in the hay days of American shoe manufacturing later 1950 sewing soles and welts to shoes I had to learn the adjustments and as I recall this was a finicky one. I’m now 83 and forgot most of it. Thanks for posting❤️
I'm glad you found the video. I appreciate the nice comment. We all need a refresher now and then. Happy sewing!
Awesome Andy, I never thought that bobbin tension would create that noise! I thought it was the play of the case in the hook. I’m going to go back now and work with my bobbin tension. Thank you so very much!
hi Laura it can definitely be the play of the case in the hook and that's the first thing we check when we hear noisy bobbin area but it can also be the tension on that little bobbin spring too. I'm so glad you found the video thank you for taking the time to leave such a nice comment. take care 😊
Yet another patiently explained and clearly defined all-important 'below deck' potential problem area. As you address each of these specific issues in your logical and calm manner the whole of the machine's operation becomes progressively easier to understand.
Can't begin to tell you how great your approach is to achieving, or melding the various mechanical adjustments into one cohesive picture of harmonious orchestration.
Yours is a great gift my friend. Thank you for sharing it so ably.
Mike Kirwan - Kenmore, WA
Early on I was fascinated with how a sewing machine's parts must work in unison. The timing of the hook, needle, takeup lever, and feed must be perfect. It is a complicated process when you first think about it and realize what is going on. It helped me a lot to just work on one part or system at a time to learn what I could about it. When I realized the timing between the needle bar and feed dog it started making sense to me and it went on from there. You're very perceptive to the harmony of the machine. I enjoy your comments very much. Thanks for watching.
That was great. Thanks for all the time and work you did to make it. I have a 99K being shipped to me now and your videos will be a resource of help for many years to come.
Thank you for the kind comment and for watching my channel. You'll enjoy owning a 99K, IMO, smaller size but all the power. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Evening Andy. I’ve followed your brilliant video on bobbin adjustment. I’ve got the opposite problem in that I can’t screw the bobbin any tighter (but it needs to be). Do you have any suggestions about what I can do in this instance. It’s a little 99k. God bless, J
@@juliedickson1856 You must be talking about the tension adjustment screw?
If it is all the way tight and that is not enough tension it could be a couple of things. There may be lint dust and smudge caught between the tension spring and the side of the bobbin case. Even though it is a model 99 machine the bobbin case is a "Class 66". Here is a video about cleaning it. ruclips.net/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/видео.html As in most of my videos I go to the extreme and show a complete teardown, etc. Sometimes all you need is to loosen the screw a little and work a piece of dental floss (unwaxed) or some heavier thread under the spring and floss it back and forth to get anything in there to come out.
Another possibility is the spring itself is bent away from the case and even with the screw tight the spring is not tight
against the case and that prevents good thread tension. The spring can get bent by someone yanking the thread out when it is tangled in the bobbin case/hook, or from prying behind the spring with a needle trying to get gunk out. Replacement springs are very hard to find so if I come across a bent spring I try to carefully (very) flatten it back out a little. I use a wooden stick or plastic card to try that.
Lastly, the screw may be damaged and although tight it may not be going in all the way. I pull out the screw and look at it with a magnifying glass trying to see if the threads are damaged or really dirty. If needed you CAN buy a new screw. www.vintagesingerparts.com/search?q=Bobbin+Case+Tension+Adjusting+Screw+-+Fits+Singer+Models+66+%26+99
Good luck, Julie.
I hate having to deal with tension issues. You have made it a little less "tense". Thanks for the video
That's good news! There is enough tension in life sometimes, so who needs it when sewing, right? If the video helped you then I'm happy.
Hi Andy.... Lovin your videos my friend. I watched this one and I immediately went to eBay and got me one of those scales ordered up. You are such a great guy taking the time to put these videos out there for folks like me who are interested in doing this stuff. I love working on these old machines and getting them back in shape. Take care and be safe out there.
I use it on every machine if I can find where I left it. A good tool. With the machines you already have and more coming you will get your money's worth of use I think. Be safe.
very helpful😊
Thank you 🙏
Looks like a common postal scale
I'll have to get one of those, those tensions give me fits sometimes.
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching. I have used this often for the bobbin case. The upper tension I can usually do just by feel now. When I first got the meter I would practice setting by feel and then measure with the meter and I got better and better, but on the bobbin case, I just never got the feel for it and happily use the meter. There are much better meters but they cost much, much more.
Those Apollo set ups are notorious for being noisy
I found that scale on ebay for the same price with about $2.60 shipping, I think it must be the Featherweight shop too.
I can see where it will save on time and thread, I've gotten pretty good at going by feel too, but I waste a lot of thread and time doing it.
So helpful! Dealing with this now!
I'm glad you found the video then. I hope it helps you resolve the issue, and thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks for this Andy my 99k is sewing beautifully now.
I love comments like this, Tony. Thanks for taking the time to let me know. I always feel "justified" for spending time and energy when I know that the video can help people out. Happy New Year and happy sewing.
I have been using a AA size battery for one ounce of weight. I just tape the thread to the battery and adjust the thread tension so just a light pull and the thread comes out. I am not exactly sure the weight on a AA battery, but I hope it is close to one ounce.
An AA size battery weighs about .8 ounces. I don't think the difference will matter too much. The whole thing with tension is that it must be balanced to form a correct lock stitch. The needle thread tension unit is made to be adjusted easily and that is to compensate for the bobbin case thread tension, size of the thread, sewing project, type of stitch, etc. So if your bobbin thread pull is about .8 OZ then that should easily be matched by the tension unit and if the bobbin thread was 1.4 OZ then the tension unit would need a little more tension. I think your method is great! If you feel the pull is good and then the stitch forms nicely you have a perfect balance, so congrats!!
I've used that scale to way letters for postage
Good lord... Weigh!
On the Featherweight Shop website where I bought mine they call it a "Bobbin Tension Meter", but I also see it on Amazon listed as a "Postal Scale, small & portable analog weight detection device". I guess it's one of the few "dual-purpose" tools I have now. Thanks for watching my channel. Take Care.
You're very right about the bobbin tension relation to the noise it makes when sewing, but maybe im wrong too but i do think the motor contributes a little to the noise too :/
Yes, there is noise from the motor, but it is a distinctive buzzing sound. Whenever I clean and polish the commutators there is often this buzzing sound until the motor brushes "re-seat" or conform back to the clean commutator. The noise I comment on in the video was the bobbin case hitting the bobbin case position bracket spring too hard. I noticed after I made the video that my camera microphone really picked up the buzz of the motor. I tried moving the camera around to see if it would pick up more of the bobbin case noise and less of the motor buzz, but it did not make it better so I posted up my original filming. Sigh ... I'm mostly happy with my new little $189 camera but the mic is sensitive to high pitch sounds and I can't force it to flash when I want bright pictures. When I win the lottery I plan to set up a better "studio" and camera system, but don't hold your breath. Thank you very much for watching Andy Tube and taking the time to comment. Take Care.
No worries andy, i love what you have done w all these machines. ;) well, if the motor is fine, glad to know that hahaha.
Hi Andy My mother in law had a 99k singer sewing and I was wanting to keep it , but I am having a hard time running it . The shuttle is completely different from the ones in the video and I am confused, wish I could post a picture for you to see
Are you sure it is a model 99K? Very early model 99s had a slightly different bobbin case position bracket but not a different shuttle that I ever saw. Could it be a model 101, 201, or even a 15-91? It is not that hard to record a video with your cellphone and upload it to your RUclips page so we all can see the machine and the shuttle system. Here are all 20 videos for model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z
Hi, I have the same machine, Singer 99K, thank you for your dedication explaining! I have a problem with the stich length, even if I set the stich length to 6, the size is quite small. I've cleaned the bobbing and check the tension but I cannot archive 6 length stich. Thanks!
Hello, Javier, and sorry you're having this problem. Stitch length is controlled by the Feed Regulator that most people call the stitch length control lever. The Feed Regulator controls how far the feed dog pulls the fabric between needle strokes, so how long the stitch is. If you are not getting the number 6 stitch then something is wrong with the Feed Regulator. Here is the entire playlist for the model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z one of those 19 videos is all about the Feed Regulator: ruclips.net/video/OTuoIj0Vx0E/видео.html Sometimes I have found that the stitch length lever is bent, and if it is bent downward it hits the bottom of the indicator plate before the inside part, the actual regulator, has moved all the way for the number 6 stitch. So the lever and plate say you are set for a 6 stitch, but the inside mechanism may only be moved to 10 or 12 stitches per inch. If that is happening on your machine, you can try to straighten the lever, maybe using a vise, or you can buy a used part on eBay and replace it.
Take a look at the video and you'll see how to remove the parts for cleaning and replacement. There is a very slight chance that the feed lift and/or feed rock shaft are out of adjustment and the feed dog is not moving properly, but I've only seen that one time after a person was adjusting all kinds of parts on the bottom. I'd look for a bent lever first. Good luck, and thanks for asking such an important question, and for watching my channel. (P.S. Bobbin case has no control over stitch length, BTW)
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for your quick answer. This weekend I will investigate and let you know. Cheers!
@@javiertrancoso4394 You can do it, Javier! Hopefully, it is just the lever.
Hi Andy, I've checked the control lever and it was a little bit (very little ) bent, almost millimetrically, so I oiled it. As well I've changed the spring position of the thread tension (I've had it at 9 o'clock ). Now I have a better length stitch but I will keep cleaning properly and oil it! Thanks for your advice!
@@javiertrancoso4394 Appreciate you letting us know what you found. Good for future reference.
So you mean the take-up spring/check spring on the tension unit was causing short stitches before you adjusted it? Thanks again and good luck.
I found on some of my vintage machines that the spring was completely flat. So over adjusted flat that it lifted up and had no tension on the thread. So research said buy a new spring or bobbin. Nah! I too it off and bent it over a pen lightly to get it roundish but them bent it around its own bobbin. So curve matched. Put it back in, perfect. Now there was range to loosen or tighten. I’m just into this with 10 vintage. Feed dog too high on 2 machines and 2 have top tension issues. Zero on one and too tight on the other. I think people mess with all this with no research. If logic dictates. Maybe similar. Something is adjusted so much it erased the tension or made it too tight. The feed dog I know how to do but not sure which screw or rod on my two machines as the video examples I found, one is Andy’s is not my machine. I can only sew on a single piece of paper. Not any fabric at all. I can feel it. Also with 55 years of sewing I can tell by pulling either the top or bottom of it feels right and can pull both at once to feel it too. No need for gadgets. Although that is an interesting one!
With 10 vintage (machines?) and these mad skills you have maybe you should start posting some how-to videos on your channel. Thousands of people are learning to sew during this pandemic, all around the world, and would love to learn some of your techniques and skills. Just think how many do not have access to a tension "gadget" but are having tension issues with grandma's machine they are trying to get back in running condition. Thanks for sharing, and for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, new-er sub here. I am trying to use my featherweight tension meter with my new 99k. Are you tilting the bobbin case so the bobbin doesn’t just fall out? And i can’t budge the screw. Can I put a drop of something on there to help? Was the entire bobbin case one of the items that you soaked in 91% rubbing alcohol? I’m getting overwhelmed with this!
Yes, tilting it b/c it kept trying to tip out while I was filming. Some folks lay the case flat on the table and try pulling the meter to the side. I had trouble doing that, too. So I went with the tilt.
You can certainly soak the BC in Alcohol for cleaning, but I don't think that would help with loosening a tight screw. Things I have done for very tight screws are: using a drop of penetrating oil, like WD40.
Using heat from a hairdryer for a few minutes which may be hard to do with the BC. I mean you can heat it but will need a glove to pick it up and hold it for loosening the screw.
On other smaller parts, I dropped the part in boiling water for a minute or two, plucked it out with tongs, and then used a glove to hold it while loosening a tight screw.
A final thing, (I never tried this on a bobbin case) requires someone to hold the case while you tap sharply on the screwdriver while trying to turn. The shock of the tapping can "break free" the screw (you hear a "snick" sound).
The Chapman screwdriver set I have includes a mini-rachet that allows me to apply much more torque on a turning screw. chapmanmfg.com/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set
Folks have used a small 1/8 or 1/4 inch rachet they had that can hold a screw bit and said it worked the same as the mini rachet by Chapman.
It's easy to make mistakes when overwhelmed, I know this to be true. I've learned the hard way to step away instead of damaging a screw head or part on the machines. I've soaked screws overnight many times, etc. It was better than finding a replacement screw, believe me. You can work on other parts of the machine while letting the WD40 soak in. Do some cleaning, oil the whole machine, adjust other parts, etc, or read a good book. Thanks for the Sub, and good luck.
My singer is the 99K model made in January 1936, and it has not got the bobbin tensioner like you have mine is just a nut that you tighten or loosen, my cotton is sewing with lots of loose knots, or it looks like that the top needle is just a straight line, can you help me sort it out please?
You do have the much older style of tension assembly, but the tension principles are still the same. You must balance upper tension (needle thread) with lower tension (bobbin thread) so the lock stitch forms between the layers of fabric.
You can watch any of my tension videos, especially the Zero Out part and it applies to your tension assembly; you just do not have a number reference.
Be sure the tension assembly is clean and lint & oil free. Thread the assembly but don't go to the needle. If you pull on the thread AFTER the assembly and slowly turn the nut to the right (adding tension) with the foot down you should start to feel tension or resistance on the thread. When you feel just a little tension and the check spring barely moves, that is your Zero or starting tension (almost no tension) if you want to mark that with white out or spitwads of wet paper at 12:00 o'clock you can think of that as the number "0" on your imaginary dial.
Then keep turning the nut to the right and pulling slowly on the thread until the thread is hard to pull, maybe 1/2 way around the nut turning or more. Think of that a number "9" or "10" on your dial. With a mark on your tension disc & one on 12:00 o'clock, you can then mark your "9" spot and that should give you you effective range of needle thread tension.
You usually have to play with it and get the "feel" of it, but if your great grandma could do it, you can. It's really important that the parts are clean, lint & oil-free, and dry or those tension discs won't "grab" the thread and apply tension.
Here is a pretty good tension video I made and if you look for the chapter about zero out you can see what I mean:
ruclips.net/video/rioRhSbog6U/видео.html
Here is a playlist with several tension videos you can scoot thru if needed: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJtdJxU7i-qpXOpKzU6xtEd to see other ideas about tension, but really the same principles
To me they stick out like a sore thumb. Thanks for your reply.
Hehe, that's funny. Thank you!
Hi Andy, you helped me before when I bought one of these second-hand. I was wondering if you would be able to answer another quick question for me.
My original light just blew on the machine and blew the fuse on the foot pedal I had ordered for this machine.
The fuse in the plug was a 3A fuse but the plug itself states 13A on the plug casing -- it is the original motor in the machine -- can you recommend what size fuse I should be using?
I won't advise on electrical matters as I am not an electrician. I can say about my own electrical system in my home though. The wiring in my walls is rated at 20A. The Breakers (fuses) in my electrical panel is rated at 15A. There are no fuses in any cords here. The original motor on the 99K here, RF5-8 is rated at about 1A. During a high-speed surge, it may draw slightly over the 1A. Your wire (plug) shows 13A capacity meaning it was made to handle up to that much electricity, but the motor, if 110-120V, is probably only 1A, and the light bulb is maybe 8 to 20 Watts. A 3A fuse seems correct. If you have the original cord/fuse I'd use the same. BTW, I've never seen a blown bulb blow a fuse or trip a breaker. I have seen a short in a wire or motor blow plenty of fuses and light bulbs. You feel the bulb blew the fuse but maybe the bulb blew out from a short or overload (surge) of the electrical wires or system that blew out the fuse and bulb. I'd check for a bad cord or wiring in the machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 Brilliant Thanks again Andy, I prob need the wiring checked.
@@Angel-vn6wb Sure. Just wondered if a house fuse blew at the same time? Just be careful. Electricity is tricky. Take care.
Hello Andy, Just a quick question. I don't have an ultra sonic cleaner and my parts do not clean up as pretty as yours. My bobbin case had rust and I wire brushed it all off. However, it still has dark areas on the case. When is it time to replace the case????
The actual case can last a very long time. If there are rough spots inside where the bobbin rotates they can be sanded down. If the ledge the bobbin rides on finally gets worn down enough the bobbin sits too low and the needle thread gets stuck on the case edge while being dragged by the hook, then the case is finished for good. You can buy new tension springs and even the tiny screws online now to replace stripped screws and bent springs. As long as the bobbin case performs there is no need to replace it. I have a spare bobbin case and extra spring for all my wifes' sewing machines. I was told once that the class 66 bobbin case can be replaced with the plastic Apollo bobbin case but I never investigated that possibility.
I had the same problem.
Glad you found the video and thanks for watching my channel.
This was very helpful thank you :)
I'm glad you found the video Katie. Thanks for taking time to comment. Be safe.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you, Andy. I hope you're staying safe too!
Great help!
Thanks for watching my channel, Ginny, and taking the time to comment.
Mine is very loud and the tension in the bobbin area is too much.
Just bought one of these models and the bobbin thread gets stuck and won't easily flow through to the top, it catches I get my loop then it goes too stiff to actually sew and just breaks the thread, any ideas what could be causing it? Also, the bobbin cover plate sides on and off with nothing apparently stopping it at a certain position.
It's hard to troubleshoot through the comment section. There are a few things that can cause this. The improper winding of the bobbin. Wrong type bobbin. Too much tension on the bobbin case. Wrong tension on the needle thread tension unit. Damaged hook point (burr), Takeup lever installed wrong. Thread and needle not matching (thread too big for needle eye, etc.) Here are all of my videos for model 99K. There's one for the tension unit and take-up lever. The bobbin area parts video shows the proper installation of the bobbin slide plate. (you may have a loose friction spring or the spring has a broken tip beside it may be installed incorrectly.) Be sure you have the proper class 66 bobbin. Double-check you have wound the bobbin correctly and inserted it into the bobbin case the right way. I usually wind a different bobbin as a test. Pull the needle thread out and start over threading the needle to be sure you took the correct paths. One of the videos covers that. See? It's hard to know exactly without hands on the machine, but those are the things I would be looking at if the machine was on my bench. You can download a FREE copy of the instruction manual from SInger at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=99
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi, thanks very much for taking the time to reply, I will have another look at it tomorrow, it is something I did, as I cleaned it all up and it was sewing with just the hand crank (waiting on a pedal and hoping I don't need to replace the motor!) then for some reason I did something, not sure what right now and it stopped sewing and the thread is now being caught underneath the fabric in long strands so back to the drawing board after sleep.
@@Angel-vn6wb I don't think it is anything serious then. We always start with pulling out the thread and rethreading everything. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I am an idiot, I was threading with the bloody presser foot down!!! Naturally, I figured this only after doing everything else! Obviously, I was having a daft as a brush day. As for the bobbin cover plate, it would appear the little metal bar doesn't catch the grooves on the underside of the plate properly so it pops off too easy, not sure if it would be safe for me to bend them upwards slightly, for now, though I will wait on my pedal arriving to see if the motor is working, least that looks easy enough to replace, all a learning curve :).
@@Angel-vn6wb Every sewist who has sewn a stitch has made that mistake. That's why I said pull the thread out and start over.
I mention in the video about people pulling the slide plate up and off the spring and that it can break the tips of the sping. That may be what you have and why the plate slides right off the bed. Just be sure you are getting the spring tips into the slot when installing the slide. You can buy a new replacement friction spring for $4 www.ebay.com/p/672304280
I had an awful time trying to turn the screw on my bobbin case. Not sure if I got it right yet.
I feel your pain. Trying to move that little screw that's been in place 50+ years can be difficult. I usually don't have to adjust the bobbin case tension, like less than 1 out of 10 machines, but I did on this one due to the loud noise. When I tested sewing on lighter weight fabric the stitches really puckered up more than normal too. Like most mechanical things, don't change a setting unless you need too. Thanks for watching, kathiego233 and I hope you return again.
So I bought a second spare bobbin case for my Singer 500A. I was going to use it for elastic thread in the bobbin for shirring purposes only. So I loosened the screw and no matter how much the tension was still way too tight. I loosened it so much it fell on the floor! LOL! It took about 15 minutes for us to even spot it and then another 10 minutes before I finally managed to get it back onto that spring! I'll work on this more now that I have that ounces and grams tool that you have used. Thank you, Kathy
uhoh. So the small screw holds the spring to the bobbin holder and does not affect the tension. Only the large screw is used to adjust tension. Even the large screw is tiny and I'm impressed you were able to find it after the drop. I never can. If needed you can remove both screws and the spring for cleaning. Replacement parts can be found.
www.sewingpartsonline.com/bobbin-case-tension-screw-singer-1172.aspx
www.singeronline.com/sibocatesp17.html
www.sew4less.com/product/8861/Bobbin_Case_Spring_172202
Hi Andy, Yes my husband could not believe how tiny that larger of the two screws was and he didn't know how I managed to see it on the floor - nor could I... Next time I should put down a wash cloth or something on the table and try to be more careful. Thank you so much! Kathy
Is this an original bobbin case and bobbin or aftermarket one. Andy I find if there not original they make a ratchety sound.
Hi, terry. I have had the problem you mention. I did check the bobbin holder thinking it was not the correct one maybe. This is the original bobbin holder/case according to the number on it compared to the Singer Parts list. I'm careful to buy aftermarket bobbins where the center tube does not protrude or stick up out of the side discs. I know that the thread can hang on those as it passes over the bobbin case. For this case, the tension was found to be about 3 oz. instead of the recommended 1 oz. BTW, my 2 retired Singer friends told me plastic class 66 bobbins of good quality are fine to use, are quieter and will not wear down the bobbin holder, FYI we used the plastic ones often. Thanks for discussing this because people don't realize the case or bobbin could be causing trouble or be replacement items of lower quality.
Push it to the back left and lift it. The hook needs to be in the right place when removing.
Looking forward to your "how to" video
@@andytubesewing1953 I'm not making any videos. I'll stick to recommending and watching yours.
@@redoak3809 Oh... too bad. I think you'd be very good at it. You have a unique outlook and catch a lot of things many of us miss.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you! But, I am not as photogenic as you!
@@redoak3809 Hahaha, now I know you are joking 🤣🤣Did you ever see my face in a video?? Only my hands. There is a reason for that 👀 If you ever change your mind let me know and I'll give a shout-out to my subscribers to check your new videos out. Take care friend.
Aa+
🙏
those repo bobbins are garbage ! try a older bobbin of that era . youll be happy see ya chet
I might have some in storage. Thanks for the tip, Chet. Happy New Year.