"How To": 1997 - 2006 Jeep Wrangler "TJ" Fuel Pump Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- Got a bad fuel pump? Well, save yourself a ton of money and replace it yourself! It's a lot easier than you might think, and, it only takes about 90 minutes (provided nothing goes wrong).
I do apologize for the vertical video segments. My normal camera broke and I was left with using my phone, which I don't have a mount for, and in trying to get this project done I just didn't think about the camera orientation. 
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![98' Jeep Wrangler Fuel Pump Install [TJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AgwIrJ1t_t0/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video! A simple and very clear step-by-step explanation on "how to"... Thank you! A++
I rarely leave comments but that was perfect clear step by step instructions on the repair. Made it simple. Please do continue uploading repair videos as they come to you!
Thanks, Alex! I'm trying to get more and more into posting DIY vids, so each time I do something I'll be posting up a new vid.
Thanks for sharing , internet still amazes me that anytime I need to fix one of our many cars there's someone thoughtful enough to do a how to video , you also thought to list every step , thanks again
Glad it helped out.
Wanted to thank you. With your video help I was able to do my own fuel pump. I saved hundreds thanks to you. Only thing I would tell first timers like me, 1998 TJ in the rust belt is to be ready to cuss a bit with the bolts holding the tank up. They are carriage bolt style. I had a couple just become spinners that I had to fix. The fuel line compression fitting is a tricky little bugger until you get it - keep pulling on it, mine was coated with undercoating spray. I couldn't have done it without this vid ` thanks again
Glad it helped!
I may have to do this. I don’t have many options left to fix my current problem. My 98 wrangler sometimes won’t start up in the morning, and is randomly shutting off when driving down the road. Then when it restarts it runs/idles rough for a cpl mins before running smooth again. Replaced sensors, distributor cap plugs wires, relay, still having the same problem. And when the mechanic puts it on the computer, it doesn’t show any codes. This gremlin has been giving me headaches for almost a year now. Only thing left to try is the fuel pump, tubes, and an ecm. Hopefully I’ll be able to join the Jeep Club on rides again soon.Thanks so much for the clear instructions. Your videos are a Godsend for those of us that never took shop class. Subscribed!
This ever fix your problem??
Thanks from across the pond👍👍👍
Definitely the best video on changing out the TJ fuel pump!!! Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Thanks, Cody! Glad it helped you out!
Matt Taylor Absolutely made my job a breeze!!!
Hey Matt, just want to say thank you for the video! You've done a great job explaining and I sure appreciate how clean it was. So many guys sit there and throw out dirty language throughout their videos but it was enjoyable to listen to yours since it was so clean and well made. Keep it up!
Appreciate the comment, Conner. I've never understood the need for language in a "how-to", and you may have a kid helping their dad watching as well. Glad the video helped you out.
Great video followed your instructions and did the job in 2hours, one of the best video I have seen great, great,great job, thanks again
Great video! Thank you for posting.
I watched this and then changed mine. This was a very instructive video. Great job and Thank you.
Glad to hear it! Good job saving yourself some serious coin and doing it yourself!
Dude, you rock. I am grateful. Be healthy. Be Well.
-Dolan Kel
Doug Alan glad it helped!
Thank you so much for saving me time, money, and frustration
Glad to have helped!
Matt, your step by step fuel pump procedure continues to help your fellow jeepers. RockAuto no longer lists the Bosch so it was a Delphi for me. Here is another heads up for a problem I ran into. The new pump (Delphi 1353) had a longer reseviour by over a half inch and with the hat fully compressed it still sat 1/8” off the seal. I had to take the tank off my aftermarket tank shield and straddle it across 2 2x4s which allowed the centre of the tank to flex to get the pump in and stupid ring on and tight. Also I broke one of the fuel line clips. I needed the Dorman 800-005 5/16 retainer clips for Chrysler/GM (Autozone, amazon etc). Thanks again!
Good to know! Interesting that RA stopped carrying the Bosch unit.
Be careful with doing your method of getting the Delphi unit in. If you take a decent whack to the belly of the tank while off road it could damage the pump. If you just have the stock shield, I would definitely upgrade it to protect that tank and pump more.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 Thanks. Happily have a bunch of after market armour underneath. Speaking with some Chrysler/Jeep techs, it’s not uncommon for the HDPE fuel tank to have this issue.
One of the best!! THANK YOU, very clear and informative.
Glad it helped!
wow, that is way simpler than i thought! thank you!
Beau Caldwell glad to help!
Very clear instructions brother thank you .... pretty sure this is what's going on with my jeep
Glad I could help. Look for more Jeep specific vids in the future. Every time I do something I'll be posting a new video.
GREAT Video!
Clear, to the point. Thanks for taking the time to make this! Good job
Just trying to help others be able to do their own maintenance. I appreciate the compliments.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 and I appreciate the reply
Badass video dude, keep it comin'!
glad it could help
Awesome Video! Learned A LOT!
Glad I could help.
Great video, thanks, fuel pump in the future on my 98tj
Good video man, going to swap the fuel pump in my 06 LJ Rubi when the pump arrives. Got the delayed start symptoms where the fuel is running back to the tank and have to turn the key several times to get the pump to push it back to the engine.
Justin same and I’m misfiring?! Did you?
perfect. thank you. I just bought a 1998 Tj and it needs a pump real bad! Lol!
Be sure to get a quality pump. Most of the cheaper ones go out within a year or two.
Awesome video. This helps a lot, thanks!
glad it helped!
Excellent instructional video, thank you very much....👍😃✌
Gerald Voss thanks!
Love your video. You explain it in such a simple way and very clear. One question. Which brand of pump did you use if you can recall? I read that Bosch is the best one to use as it's the original brand.
I purchased a Bosch unit. Yes, it's more expensive, but they have the best quality IMO.
Great vid !!
Great video...awesome! Thanks for sharing .
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the very simple yet straightforward explanations. You have a great teaching style which I appreciated. My fuel pump is shot in my 06 Tj and I’ll be using your video to help put a new one in. I also have a question for you that I hear is a common issue with the Tj’s. When filling up at the pump I have to listen carefully for the tank to fill otherwise I end up with gas overflow. What is your recommendation on a remedy to this? Thanks again for your insightful video, from one Jeep lover to another ✌🏻
The overflow issue is pretty common on TJ’s, and it’s actually all due to ethanol fuel. Short answer, it’s the overflow valve not closing quickly enough.
Here’s a link for the fix. It’s actually pretty easy, and if you’re doing the pump anyway, then do this fix as well.
wranglertjforum.com/threads/wrangler-tj-gas-overflow-fix.244/
Excellent video and instructions... thank you for taking the time!!!
Albert Franquiz glad to have helped!
Thanks pal. Great tutorials make projects like these real easy. 👍
glad it helped!
the begining of your vid is to long. probably the best jeep vid iv ever seen. thank you for your time.
looking back, I agree, the intro is too long. I appreciate the feedback!
I know it's an old video but thanks for posting! My '03 at 114k has started the long crank first start of the day so; Im guessing I'll be doing this real soon.
That’s some amazingly low miles for an 03! It’s a pretty easy job in all reality. If it all goes smoothly, you should have it done in under 2 hours easily.
Looks like you left the filler and vent tubes connected when dropping it. Thats good, the clamp on mine looks rusted. might change it after I drop the tank. I will be using a motorcycle lift, hope that works!
Great video,
Thanks!
Well-done video. Very helpful. One question: You advise rubbing motor oil on the seal ring for lubrication to make the installation of the pump easier. I had always read that oil deteriorates rubber, and that one should not get oil on rubber. I assume that the seal ring is rubber or part rubber. If so, I suppose you would advise an alternative lubricant for this.
you don't want a lot. Just enough to give it a VERY thin coating. If you read the owners manual on many vehicles it is recommended to keep the ring from tearing. The issue comes if you use too much. Using a rag with a little 10w-30 on it would be no different than using Vasoline, ATF, or any other lubricant.
Great video I’m about to do this job and I feel like it should be fine!
It a job that sounds far more daunting than it actually is. Just take your time and be sure to check for leaks once everything is back together.
Well got the fuel pump done. Wasn’t the fuel pump it was the crank position sensor. Got it done either way.
What do you think about using silicone lube/spray on the threads of the fuel pump retaining nut? (The one you use a common tip screwdriver and hammer on).
Jeff Kennedy it’s a plastic ring going onto plastic threads with a rubber seal. It’s inevitable that it’s going to be a pain. A silicone spray MIGHT help, but personally, if you don’t want to use the hammer/screwdriver method, a good strap wrench will work too.
Sweet ! Great video. About to drop my tank today 😳 thank you for the video 👍 big help ! What (brand of) fuel pump did you install? Can’t find OEM one anymore 😩 I have a 97 w/ the 2.5L. Thanks !
Glad to help! I went with a Bosch, but I’m pretty sure they’re no longer available. That being the case, I would recommend a Delphi unit.
Great video brother! Let us know what made you replace the fuel pump and what was happening that caught your attention to replace it
Chase Giddens, the Jeep simply wasn't starting. I had to cycle the key 3-4 times before she'd fire up. Checked the pressure at the rail while cranking and again while running and saw cranking pressure was really low. That told me the pressure valve in the pump was bad.
Well done - very clear, One question.What fuel pump assembly kit is that?
JM Jones I was able to find a Bosch unit when I did this. Unfortunately many people are finding that the Bosch unit isn’t stocked anymore. If that’s the case, I would recommend either Delphi or Carter.
dumb question but is the fuel pump supposed to make like a whirring noise when you turn the key onto accessory? mine always done it so I figured it was just the pump sending fuel to the engine and what not. But here recently ive noticed its not doing it anymore and my jeep has been making a almost sputtering noise and sometimes itll randomly lose power and will start shaking. but when I turn the jeep off and back on, its all back to normal. So could my problem be a bad fuel pump aswell? Just wanna make sure before I spend $500 on one
AFcody16 yes, the when you turn your ignition key to the accessory position you should be able to hear the fuel pump prime itself. If this doesn’t happen, you have two possibilities: 1. The fuel pump relay under the hood is bad. Simply swap it with a nonessential one (ac compressor) to check it. If the pump primes after swapping the relays, then you have an easy and inexpensive fix. If it doesn’t prime, then you have possibility...2. The pump is bad and needs changed.
Either of these will give you the symptoms you described, but again, check the relay first. If the relay is good, follow the video guide and you should be good.
Good, I think I can do that! Thanks!
Good deal. Glad it helped you out!
Hey Matt, quick question. Did you drain the tank after dropping it and refill with fresh fuel afterwards? It didn't look like it so I figured I should ask. The procedure in the manual says to do this, but unless there is some contaminant or particles in the fuel I don't see a reason why it's necessary.
Thanks.
I waited 'til I only had under an 1/8 tank to drop the tank. Didn't want to have to deal with a heavy tank while lowering her down. I had a 5 gallon jerry of premium that I put in after the work was done.
Thank you
Great video! My 98 inline 6 takes quite a few turn overs to catch, then for the first mile or two it starves for fuel and bucks and sputters. Then it's fine for the length of the trip (be it 20 minutes or 2 hours). Do you think that is indicative of a fuel pump that needs replacing? Or the filter (98 so unfortunately it's in the tank as well as they stopped in line filters after 97)?
Definitely sounds like a pump issue. The filter is built into the pump assembly so you’ll want to replace the whole unit.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 just wanted to follow up with a question to bounce off the original comment. I am having the exact same issue as Madison but it has been going on for around 2 years. If it was the pump going bad, could it have lasted 2 years at its state or is something else the culprit? Thanks for responding to this comment so late after the video was posted!
Matt your video was very helpful. But when I was trying to take the 1/2 nuts off they were a battle. The 4 on the back all broke off and the 3 on the front were rusted so bad I had to split them to remove them
Oof. Gotta love rusty bolts. Replace with stainless hardware and you'll be good to go.
Very nice step-by-step video! Question, is there some type of check valve internal to the fuel pump assembly? I've got a '99 TJ that suffers from extended cranking, but will always start, eventually, and has no problem running. I read on a forum where someone says that this check valve is letting the rail pressure bleed down, thus causing the extended cranking? Can you shed some light on this? Thanks in advance for your help!
Yes, there is a pressure valve, and that is what commonly goes bad on the fuel assemblies. It allows the system to lose pressure as the vehicle sits once it starts to go bad.
Once enough pressure has been built back up while cranking the motor, the system will retain enough pressure to keep the vehicle running, but eventually, that valve will deteriorate enough to where you're engine will suffer power loss and start occasionally sputtering due to the lack of rail pressure.
For the TJ's, it's just a full assembly swap, and as you can see, it's not that difficult of a job.
Thank you for responding! This is awesome information, and I will get it changed out! Yep, going by your video, it doesn’t look hard at all!
What was the reason you changed your fuel pump in the first place,. What symptoms were you experiencing?
mad helpful ty
Glad it helped!
My 05 Jeep TJ suddenly didn’t start. Crank but not start. I checked a few things and then decided to spray starter fluid in the intake. It started and then turned off after a few seconds. I have a few questions. That means spark plugs are good right? Cause I got it to start. Also, the truck doesn’t have a port on fuel line for a gauge. So I listened for the pump when turned on, nothing, then felt the relay when turned on and felt it click, fuse looks good. Do fuel pumps go bad all of a sudden? No warning. I haven’t seen any warnings.
josh brothers yes, they typically just go without a warning. What you’re describing is definitely a fuel delivery issue and it sounds like the pump is bad.
Hey Matt great video, easy to understand. question though. After reading what you told Nick S. i'm wondering if it's my fuel pump at all. I was driving from Miami to Sebastian FL, I got about 100 miles when it started kicking, maybe not kicking as a loss of power for only a second, then runs fine for a few miles more then it does it again, at first thought was clutch, but no high RPM reads. starts fine, runs fine around town, but after a long drive it starting acting up, had to leave it in Sebastian, didn't want it dying on way back. its a 1997 Wrangler TJ 2.5L
Did it throw any codes? If not, by the sounds of it, Id look more at it possibly being some debris in the tank and it's causing it to clog up for a second or two. It wouldn't hurt to drop the tank, pull the pump, and be sure your tank is clean of any debris. Unfortunately gas isn;t always as clean as we'd like it to be and over the years enough particles can build up and cause an issue.
Hi, I have not brought it anywhere yet to check, it's still far away at a friends house. I actually just purchased it about 9 months ago, always ran great until that trip. when i get it home I can do more investigating.Thanks for the advise
greatly appreciated
Does anyone know where the power wire ends...from the pump going forward?
Great video where was the fuel Vapor return line at
Greg Mclain the vapor tube on TJ’s actually runs parallel to the main fuel line. You should see both running along the inside of the frame on the driver side of the Jeep. Here’s a link to any fuel system parts you may need:
www.4wd.com/b/replacement-parts/replacement-under-hood-parts/replacement-fuel-parts/tj-wrangler-fuel-parts/_/N-clb7e
It would have been so easy for jeep to place a door hatch in the back floor board but nooooo! thanks for the video.
Yeah, it would have. Heck, Ford even did that with the Escape. But, you also gotta remember that Jeep used the same basic tub design from the Cj through the TJ, with just a few tweaks through the various gens.
Thanks
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Hey Matt! Went to RockAuto looking for the Bosch fuel pump & housing assembly. Only ones for my '01 wrangler 4.0L is a Spectra and a Delphi. Any recommendations?
The Delphi is a solid option if you can't find a Bosch unit at a local store. I'm wondering why RockAuto stopped carrying the Bosch though.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 Not sure... I saw them for other trucks, just not my model. I ordered the Delphi... will report back
Daryl S How has the Delphi unit held up for you so far?
Is there arrows to align the pump with....on the pump and tank.
No, there are no markers to indicate alignment. However, the tank shape only allows the pump to sit one way, so it's a pretty clear. You just want to to be sure to have the pump aligned properly when putting it into the gasket so you don't have to twist it afterwards, which could cause the gasket to not seal properly.
I really appreciate you making this video. What’s the name of the song in your intro?
Sure thing. Glad to be able to help. Song is the copyright free version of "Faded" by Alan Walker
Great video.. my 97 tj is sputtering and rpm rev high then low. Changed my tps, but no luck. Spark plugs are ok as well. Do you recommend changing the fuel pump?
If you're starting fine but then sputtering while running, it could be either an injector issue or the CPS. If the pump is bad you generally have a hard time getting it to start as the pump struggles to generate enough pressure for the engine to fire. If you're having a hard time starting as well as what you described, then yes, the pump is most likely your issue.
Another possibility is that you have some debris int eh tank and it's causing the pump to get blocked up. Drop the tank and clean the inside of any sediment that can build up over 20+ years of fill-ups.
I had the same problem I changed all of my spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, wires, and ignition coil just to be sure it wasn’t any of my electrical. Are you losing power because my engine is even backfiring. Any recommendations? Anything helps
@@bigddylevi44 same problem here. Starts fine but sputters on hills and low rpms. Changed plugs and all that. Still does it. Check engine light will come on then off, and runs great at high speeds and over 2000 rpms. Thought maybe fuel filter
bigddylevi44
Same issues on my 2000. When I first start it the rpm’s go from 300-900 or so. Bouncing back and forth. Then they shoot up to around 1100 and backfires a little. Did you find your cause? I’ve replaced tons of parts and getting ready to do the fuel pump. Mine will also bog down a little off the line
probably the best video I have seen on this topic, however, my jeep doesn't have that little valve to relieve fuel pressure, any suggestions on what I should do about that?
Calyb Hill kind of long, but here you go...
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE
PROCEDURE
Use following procedure if fuel rail is or is
not equipped with fuel pressure test port.
(1) Remove fuel fill cap.
(2) The fuel filler tube contains a spring-loaded
flap (door) located below fuel fill cap. The flap is used
as a secondary way of sealing fuel tank if fuel fill cap
has not been properly tightened. It is part of EVAP
monitor system when vehicle is equipped with a
Leak Detection Pump (LDP). The vehicle may be
equipped with flap installed into fuel filler tube
even though vehicle is not equipped with LDP
and EVAP monitor system. Place a nonmetallic
object into fuel fill tube and press on flap to relieve
any tank pressure.
(3) Remove Fuel Pump relay from Power Distribution
Center (PDC). For location of relay, refer to label
on underside of PDC cover.
(4) Start and run engine until it stalls.
(5) Attempt restarting engine until it will no
longer run.
(6) Turn ignition key to OFF position.
CAUTION: Steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 must be performed to
relieve high pressure fuel from within fuel rail. Do
not attempt to use following steps to relieve this
pressure as excessive fuel will be forced into a cylinder
chamber.
(7) Unplug connector from any injector.
(8) Attach one end of a jumper wire with alligator
clips (18 gauge or smaller) to either injector terminal.
(9) Connect other end of jumper wire to positive
side of battery.
(10) Connect one end of a second jumper wire to
remaining injector terminal.
CAUTION: Powering an injector for more than a few
seconds will permanently damage the injector.
(11) Momentarily touch other end of jumper wire
to negative terminal of battery for no more than a
few seconds.
(12) Place a rag or towel below fuel line quick-connect
fitting at fuel rail.
(13) Disconnect quick-connect fitting at fuel rail.
Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings in this section.
(14) Return fuel pump relay to PDC.
(15) One or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s)
may have been stored in PCM memory due to fuel
pump relay removal. The DRB scan tool must be
used to erase a DTC. Refer to Group 25, Emission
Control System. See On-Board Diagnostics.
thank you so much, this is exactly what i needed to know!
@@calybhill5231 Did you end up doing this? I haven't checked mine to see if I have that pressure release valve, but this other way (as stated in the manual) seems like much more work, haha.
@@willgraham9789 I just removed the fuel pump relay and started the car, it worked perfect
I feel like I'm peeking at you through a door jam at the start. Wait, do you have an ash tray welded onto your rear bumper?
Yeah, I know. That's why I apologized for the camera orientation in the description. As for the "ashtray", no. That's a magnetic parts holder.
Hey nice video, any suggestions on how to tell if your fuel pump is bad? My jeep turns over but then sputters, if I give it gas and get it to idle there are no more problems. Could this be a gas pump?
Sounds more like an injector or even pressure issue you have. if you turn your key to the accessory position you should hear the pump prime. If thesis the case, you should be good as far as the pump is concerned. One other possibility is that you have sediment in your tank and it is causing the pump to get clogged. It's easy to drop the tank, pull the pump and clean eh tank out to make sure this isn't the cause.
Matt Taylor I'll look in to that, thanks a bunch
harrison northend the jeep will shut down!! While it's bring towed you will hit a bump, tow truck will drop the Jeep and it will start
I've got a '97. Same procedure for mine?
Sure is.
good job thank you.
do those tires make the truck float?
Nope. Actually went back down to 33's. 35's made everything too easy and I like a challenge when I'm offroad.
How Do I know if I have a 15 or 19 gallon. The VIN says 15.3, and those are hard to find, but alot of people online are saying that they are all 19 gallons, and that there is something keeping them from filling all the way. I also read a review for one, and someone said they new pump was too big too long to fit inside. So I don't know what to believe.
I know on some of the 97 TJ's (and prior YJ's) Chrysler put a longer vent line in the tank which reduced capacity to 15 gallons. The tank itself is the same 19 gallon size, but due to the excess line only 15 gallons can be held by the ones Chrysler did this to. The difference in the fuel pump between the two is actually just the float, so just be sure to get one with the 19 gallon float. You can modify your tank to be able to use the full 19 gallon capacity pretty easily. Here's a write up on it:
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/jeep-tj-gas-tank-mod-confirmed-1234621/
Thanks Matt.
cool video. only one problem. you’re using a regular screw driver to take that off if any spark is created at all for some unknown reason u may not have a face anymore. something to think about maybe try a brass punch? or even big channel locks
Good point. Safety can never be underrated.
I don't know if you have the 20 gallon tank that jeep game with on some models they have the 15 or 20 gallon tanks if you have the 20 you can cut the hose inside the tank and it actually gives you more gas because it didn't come like that from the factory the breather tube the small one
Where did you get your fuel pump from?
RockAuto.com Go with the Bosch. Yes, it costs more, but it's the only brand I've ever had that doesn't fail within a year.
That fuel filter is that the only fuel filter in this type of car , or does it have another filter outside the tank.?
Filter is built into the pump assembly on all 97-06 Wranglers. There’s no external filter.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 thank you very much 👍
how do you empty the tank?
Siphon it if you can’t get it to start.
Where in va are you located??
portsmouth
I was hoping to see what tank you had.. the valving is the only part of the plastic that might be different but the sending unit will be different depending on 19 or 15 gaillon valving.. a stupid difference given the tanks are otherwise exactly the same.
doorran 19 gallon
Vaseline works to help the seal glide & not tear
Vaseline the nylon ring too
Can someone link the assembly ???
Brave1000 apparently the Bosch units are impossible to find anymore. I recommend either the Delphi or Carter.
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2002,wrangler,4.0l+l6,1386873,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+&+housing+assembly,10147
Hi hi hi
you never put oil on a o-ring. it will tear or squeeze out
they tear when you try to install the pump without putting a little oil on there first. Look at any o-ring installation on your vehicle. It is recommended that you put some sort of lube on the ring so that when you press the part into the ring, or the ring into the port (such as with an injector) so that the ring does not tear or rip. You don't drench it, but put just a very thin film on it. Same reason you put a thin film of oil on an oil filter o-ring. It sets the seal and keeps the o-ring from tearing.
You can... but if you've had issues (incompatibility between oil and the o-ring material), you can always use o-ring lube (you can get a small ketchup size packet at your local auto parts store for a buck, will last you years). In a pinch, the side of your nose secretes oil a lot, and you can lube up small o-rings with that oil! You'll be rubbing your nose a lot for a fuel filter sealer gasket, however. lol...