You can push the pistons back into the caliper before you remove the old pads, saves from damaging the piston surface and the piston will not get cocked sideways going back in.
Small hack: if you dont have something soft (rubber/plastic) to push the pistons back in for the new brake pads. Let the old brake pads in, take the biggest flat screw driver/hexagon that fits between the brake calipers, push against the old brake pads and the pistons will come back in without any damage 🤷🏻♂️🤘 dummy proof, enjoy the riding guys
Perfect timing my new rotors and brakes are due on Monday
3 года назад+86
If someone is careless enough to realize the pads are worn out only at the trails before ride, he/she certainly won't have spare parts in the bag either 😀
Had to replace my Sram rear pads a couple of days back and the pistons refused to push back in to allow new pads to be inserted with a gap for the rotor. I saw a tip to reinstall the old pads and then apply a bit more force to the tyre lever. This enables uniform pressure across both sets of pistons and success followed.
Ëven better: just pry the pistons back before you take the old pads out. then you can use a prybar if you want to get enaugh force. (flathead screwdriver and twist is my goto) Ofc you can't reuse the pads then, but if you wear them out before changing that's not an issue, and even if I did swap them prematurely I wouldn't reuse old pads because new ones are under $5. just remember to always order new ones when you install the last set..
Hi doddy, please could you do a video on cheap spring forks such as sr suntour Xcm 30 and show how to maintain and adjust them? It feels like everything to do with forks is always on high end ones.
Most of these don't have much adjustment other than maybe a lockout. They also aren't as serviceable, you can clean and grease them with some SRAM butter but that's about it
change the seals on that fork (optional) and buy some foam O-rings (please do this) , make sure to lube them with some fork oil (ideally) and it will be smooth like butter for like 3-4 rides
Great tips on the method to do it all right there.. and best thing is check it all at home before you go so you have all those supplies to work with.. that stuff isnt all in my pack. the can of cleaner especially. I do carry a couple shop towels they weigh nothing.
I always have a lot of sandpaper with me on the trails, you never know when you need it! On time there was a fallen tree across the trail and I could sand it down in a pintch
Never lever pistons direct even with a plastic tool...you can crack them especially delrin ones (vv hard, but brittle). Always do this with your old pads in....
don't know what kind of experience you've had but i've been a bike mechanic for about 3 years now and ive done probably hundreds of bleeds. i almost always use a plastic tire lever to move the pistons back into the caliper and i've never broken a piston yet. they apply A LOT of pressure to brake pads and if that's not enough to break them, then neither is the strength of your arm + some leverage. the day i break a piston is the day i stop riding bikes
@@dash0173 Not everyone's an experienced mechanic. The ceramic Shimano pistons can be pretty delicate and are prone to cracking if pushed in at an angle with a bit too much force.
@@rdunk77 no i understand that and i know people who have broken pistons before but if you're at the point where you need to push *directly* on the pistons with a tire lever rather than pushing the pistons in with the brake pads still in, you should do lots of research before messing with the "internals" of powerful brake calipers.
I just bought a gently used Polygon with hydraulic disc brakes. There is inconsistent braking power on the front and the back. I believe the original owner never bedded in the brakes before using. Am I able to just bed them in now without doing anything additional? Or what do you recommend?
In what way wa that 'at the trailhead'? That was a pretty thorough job with all the tools and associated stuff (sandpaper etc) that you could possibly need. Love to know what more you would have done if it was in the workshop? The reality of 'at the trail head' is more like, pull the old ones out, push the pistons in with your tyre lever, bung the new ones in, pour some water over them from your water bottle and do a few runs jamming them on and getting them hot, sorted😅
The little clip I lock wire to the brake hose so don't lose it, on one of the pads on the backing plate where there are wholes tip x or paint so that pad when taken out always goes back in the same way after cleaning, disc emery paper not sand paper as the disc get work hardened with all the heat cycles then mark out towards the edge not in a circle motion so the pads wear in real fast, and I always use sintered not organic as there crap and mostly UK weather is crap and wet. When looking down at the pads when seated press the lever and then release and undo the bolts and retighten so the pads are even as in bighting onto the disc. Always wipe pads and disc both directions as you will find grease and dirt will hide and in the disc holes as well. I will always have a set off pads pre bedded in in my tool box so they will bed quicker. The best time to bed is when it's wet as the pads will scuff up fast. This is the best advise for great trail braking.
#Askgmbn .. Would love to see a video expansion of this topic. Presenter vs presenter on the difference between ceramic and metal brakes along with some of the other compounds I've seen out. What's better for what types of situation... Wear factors... potential "damage"/wear to rotors using the various types... etc..
@RollinRat I've always used metal pads as well but recently I've been seeing pads that are a metal mix along with pads that are resin or ceramic. I have an older bike with Elixir 3 brakes not performance in today's world but work just fine for me. Prices are so wildly different as well. Price vs performance. Would be an interesting video.
The easiest and fastest way i've found is to just put a bit of mud on the rotors and send it. Done in under a minute. This technique also works for slightly contaminated brakes. Forget brake cleaner, mud is better.
Exactly the regime I have adhered to for the past 25 years of using disc systems. Never any squealing or problems of any kind. Gritty mud is slightly better as it embeds in the pads & scores the rotor. Result: a perfectly mated braking system.
Just what i needed, for some reason i stumbled onto a set that just won't bed in no matter what i try. I'll give scuffing up the discs and the water wiping on the pads.
What happened if my brakes don´t have that wheel on the lever? I have sram guide... and my bite point is far away and the lever is close to the hand bar.... any help please
Hi, I currently run some nukeproof semi metallic pads on my sram guide r brakes and I have an issue with them, I followed this video to bed them in and they keep glazing over and rubbing, does anyone have any ideas?
Yes, I use a 20mm adapter and have a 203 rotor, however look for a 180-203 specific adapter as they push the caliper further up the fork instead of away from the fork
@@joeMopar412 can’t really advise you on that as I have never tried, I suppose it depends on your bolt length, can you take 3mm off the usable bolt threads and still have a safe amount of it holding on your caliper? I suggest buying a proper 203 adapter such as this www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/lifeline-disc-brake-adaptor-post-to-post-/rp-prod155580?gs=1&sku=sku568355&PLA%2BAll%2BProducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw47eFBhA9EiwAy8kzNN9HT7PWgRlHSQrW4IWjwKZyPUHEzi8C0DvQyPBfK_6Uqcuf1sXaGhoC0XgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds they are very cheap
#GMBNASK hi Doddy, is there any problem with using metal or half metal pads on resin only disks? If there is or isn’t, what would happen? Thanks and for all the help so far. Keep up the good work
When bedding in the pads no need to travel at 10/15 mph at the start just ride the bike in an easy gear with the brake slightly pulled and keep increasing the pressure. And do this if your brakes de side to squal on the trail
This is a little much... If you are putting the same pads in you were previously using this isn't all that necessary. Just Wipe the rotor with a clean towel. Throw new pads in and pedal around for 5 minutes lightly applying the brake. Occasionally let off and then reapply brake. Good to go baby!
#askgmbntech hey Doddy, I ordered a Polygon Siskiu T8. I'm concerned because it has resin only rotors but I'm quite certain it has ceramic pads. is this going to be an issue?
material is dependant on your riding and preferences/priorities and there are ceramic and kevlar too apart from ones you know. Wear is more important than people think, cause I got mine to a point where 2 steel pins were sticking through pad material, and digging a groove on the disc, but were not giving signs when riding on flat to mild terrain. A bit below half the pad material thickness is where you need to have spare set ready I'd say and replace then but not like panicmode -mild trails or footpaths ride obviously will not expose pins straight away. The pins sticked out when the pads were really thin, maybe @ quarter thickness or slightly less
@@polishguywithhardtospellna8227 thanks for the answer, but what pad material has the most stopping power on the same disc, caliper, wet or dry conditions
@@dave_xc Short answer is full metal sintered pad. But you need to read some yourself, disc should be compatible or you can rip through the disc fast with sintered pads. They also not very good for mild riding, they like heat. You might wanna watch this ruclips.net/video/q65sbSmHZds/видео.html
So where did bedding your pads come from in the 1st place? I can't remember seeing it said on any brake pad, rotor, or brake system component, instructions or packaging, only in online searches, from '3rd party' folks. Considering it allows for proper braking, you'd think a manufacture would list it somewhere prominent. I'm mean brakes are what stops you from running into things and bad things happening. Of the disc brakes on my 2 bikes, I've never bedded them, and 3 out of the 4 worked great out of the box. The 4th one, front brake on my Mtb, doesn't want to grip right for more than a couple days no matter what I do. I've cleaned, replaced, sanded, re-cleaned, and tried bedding them (for kicks) many, many times, checked/bled the fluid (always looks fine, no air bubbles). The rear brakes on the same bike, like both ones the RD bike, awesome out of the box. Odd and very annoying. Just wondering...
I'm new to disc brakes. I'm just setting up a new bike now and I already miss the simplicity of rim brakes. This bedding in process seems like BS. I'll give it a chance
A piece of sewing thread tieing e-clip to a bolt on brake caliper will solve the issue of lost e-clips at the trail and will help with getting them off
whose got sandpaper and gloves and ipa in their fanny pack out on a ride? otherwise, good info, especially the water on your new pads thing. I saw that Marshy thing too. 👍
While "bedding in" is a real thing, don't to think that's it's much ado about something that can happen naturally after a few spins around the block. I mean, do we need countless videos on it?
what you really dont want to do is "roughen the surface up" lie shown in 5:25 . brake rotors need to be as smooth as possible. below rz25. If you use 80 grid you might as well stop with your feed....
You wouldn't have the clearance so if you managed to actually install the pads they would be locked on.. Plus the heat would be an issue... You can make adjustments while bleeding if you know what you're doing
Like to how for to #Moutainbiking fit and bed in. Disk Brake pedals at the so to trailhead tids for bedding in a good termins in the so session's 🤘#GMBNTech in #GMBN thanks guy
The contact point adjustment isnt to compensate for pad wear at all...it's a set up preference for bite point. It should Not be adjusted as part of changing pads.
Yeah, that was a weird instruction. All modern hydraulic brakes are "open system" meaning they adjust themselves for pad wear. Only older "closed system" hydraulics require manual adjustment for wear.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
The ‘fffuuuuuuu.....’ ! At the start, please make that an intro to every issue related video 😂 dying right here 😂
Same I’m dying rn 🤣
It was soooo good!
I watched the start a good few times for a laugh, brilliant done it so many times, away back to fix/get something
hahahah it was gold! hahah
You can push the pistons back into the caliper before you remove the old pads, saves from damaging the piston surface and the piston will not get cocked sideways going back in.
Just need to be careful not to push contaminated pistons back in
@@JS-tb9hu if you are working on your bike when it is that dirty then you deserve the problems that arise.
@@rodhagen9393 Well this is a video on how to replace at the trail, so you might not have much choice.
Small hack: if you dont have something soft (rubber/plastic) to push the pistons back in for the new brake pads. Let the old brake pads in, take the biggest flat screw driver/hexagon that fits between the brake calipers, push against the old brake pads and the pistons will come back in without any damage 🤷🏻♂️🤘 dummy proof, enjoy the riding guys
Nice little tip that is bud, I'm about to change the pads on my Kraken so I'll keep it in mind. Stay safe out there bud..
Wow yes thank you for that never thought abought it cheers.
Perfect timing my new rotors and brakes are due on Monday
If someone is careless enough to realize the pads are worn out only at the trails before ride, he/she certainly won't have spare parts in the bag either 😀
let alone sandpaper, brake cleaner, shop towels....
Watched this earlier and have just been out and done exactly this.... Wow brakes are now stupid powerful. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great intro, sums up life as a mtb rider!
nice one Doddy - great tips using the sandpaper and water - cheers
Absolutely excellent video Doddy. Thanks. Stay safe and shred well 🤘✊
Good advise about dragging brakes not always being useful...though can work with very roughed up discs.
Had to replace my Sram rear pads a couple of days back and the pistons refused to push back in to allow new pads to be inserted with a gap for the rotor. I saw a tip to reinstall the old pads and then apply a bit more force to the tyre lever. This enables uniform pressure across both sets of pistons and success followed.
Ëven better: just pry the pistons back before you take the old pads out. then you can use a prybar if you want to get enaugh force. (flathead screwdriver and twist is my goto)
Ofc you can't reuse the pads then, but if you wear them out before changing that's not an issue, and even if I did swap them prematurely I wouldn't reuse old pads because new ones are under $5. just remember to always order new ones when you install the last set..
@@RenaxTM91 Under $5 - which planet are you on? Cost me more than that last time.
This was a video I needed. Cheers Doddy 🤘🏻
jesus that intro is the absolute BEST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi doddy, please could you do a video on cheap spring forks such as sr suntour Xcm 30 and show how to maintain and adjust them? It feels like everything to do with forks is always on high end ones.
Most of these don't have much adjustment other than maybe a lockout. They also aren't as serviceable, you can clean and grease them with some SRAM butter but that's about it
And maybe give advice, hacks or bodges to make'em perform better ... would be great!
@@geemail369 unfortunately there are no hacks to make them work better, upgrading forks is the only way to go
change the seals on that fork (optional) and buy some foam O-rings (please do this) , make sure to lube them with some fork oil (ideally) and it will be smooth like butter for like 3-4 rides
This video Is PERFECT for me! I'm getting a new bike in 44 days and I've been wondering how I'm going to bed in the brakes
I take the old pads out once i have pushed the pistons back using them
Great informative video. I'm book marking it into my ebike file for future reference. Thank you.
I've ordered some new brake pads today and rotors, can't wait for them to arrive and get them on 🤟
Great tips on the method to do it all right there.. and best thing is check it all at home before you go so you have all those supplies to work with.. that stuff isnt all in my pack. the can of cleaner especially. I do carry a couple shop towels they weigh nothing.
I’m sure I saw something recently about greasing the pistons. Seems like a good time, probably more if you’re doing this at home.
Nice one Doddy. Love to know how you got to fit that blue roll in your hip pack, 🤣🤣
I always have a lot of sandpaper with me on the trails, you never know when you need it!
On time there was a fallen tree across the trail and I could sand it down in a pintch
Never lever pistons direct even with a plastic tool...you can crack them especially delrin ones (vv hard, but brittle). Always do this with your old pads in....
Agreed push them back before taking old pads out
don't know what kind of experience you've had but i've been a bike mechanic for about 3 years now and ive done probably hundreds of bleeds. i almost always use a plastic tire lever to move the pistons back into the caliper and i've never broken a piston yet. they apply A LOT of pressure to brake pads and if that's not enough to break them, then neither is the strength of your arm + some leverage. the day i break a piston is the day i stop riding bikes
@@dash0173 Not everyone's an experienced mechanic. The ceramic Shimano pistons can be pretty delicate and are prone to cracking if pushed in at an angle with a bit too much force.
@@rdunk77 no i understand that and i know people who have broken pistons before but if you're at the point where you need to push *directly* on the pistons with a tire lever rather than pushing the pistons in with the brake pads still in, you should do lots of research before messing with the "internals" of powerful brake calipers.
Good trick that saved me a few times by now is coating brake rotor with a thin layer of mud
Doddy making my day again!
Great color on that Canyon
You can also remove little bits of rust off your rotors by using sandpaper in case they stayed wet in the garage
I just bought a gently used Polygon with hydraulic disc brakes. There is inconsistent braking power on the front and the back. I believe the original owner never bedded in the brakes before using. Am I able to just bed them in now without doing anything additional? Or what do you recommend?
In what way wa that 'at the trailhead'? That was a pretty thorough job with all the tools and associated stuff (sandpaper etc) that you could possibly need. Love to know what more you would have done if it was in the workshop? The reality of 'at the trail head' is more like, pull the old ones out, push the pistons in with your tyre lever, bung the new ones in, pour some water over them from your water bottle and do a few runs jamming them on and getting them hot, sorted😅
I always ride with exactly all what is required in the backpack + foldable bike stand
That intro was brilliant!!!! "FFFUUUUUUU**"
Thanks for bumpin my music! Dope video! Peace
The little clip I lock wire to the brake hose so don't lose it, on one of the pads on the backing plate where there are wholes tip x or paint so that pad when taken out always goes back in the same way after cleaning, disc emery paper not sand paper as the disc get work hardened with all the heat cycles then mark out towards the edge not in a circle motion so the pads wear in real fast, and I always use sintered not organic as there crap and mostly UK weather is crap and wet. When looking down at the pads when seated press the lever and then release and undo the bolts and retighten so the pads are even as in bighting onto the disc. Always wipe pads and disc both directions as you will find grease and dirt will hide and in the disc holes as well. I will always have a set off pads pre bedded in in my tool box so they will bed quicker. The best time to bed is when it's wet as the pads will scuff up fast. This is the best advise for great trail braking.
Yeah I’ve already got all that in the boot of my fiesta doddy 😏
I have a POC helmet as well, wonder what it stands for
Very relivent video for me as I'm getting new pads for my bike today
edit:Spell check made by Scorpio "Relevant"
Relevant
@@dystopiaisutopia cool you can spell i can't
#Askgmbn .. Would love to see a video expansion of this topic. Presenter vs presenter on the difference between ceramic and metal brakes along with some of the other compounds I've seen out. What's better for what types of situation... Wear factors... potential "damage"/wear to rotors using the various types... etc..
@RollinRat I've always used metal pads as well but recently I've been seeing pads that are a metal mix along with pads that are resin or ceramic. I have an older bike with Elixir 3 brakes not performance in today's world but work just fine for me. Prices are so wildly different as well. Price vs performance. Would be an interesting video.
What grit sand paper did you use on the rotor?
The easiest and fastest way i've found is to just put a bit of mud on the rotors and send it. Done in under a minute.
This technique also works for slightly contaminated brakes. Forget brake cleaner, mud is better.
Exactly the regime I have adhered to for the past 25 years of using disc systems. Never any squealing or problems of any kind. Gritty mud is slightly better as it embeds in the pads & scores the rotor. Result: a perfectly mated braking system.
Thanks dude
Doddy. What size was that front disc please? It looked huge
220
will squeaking stop once you have beded the brakes in?
I have a question, is kevlar used in frames. It's lighter and stronger. Maybe as an outer layer for armour
I think you were bedding organic pads, is the process the same for sintered?
I use screwdriver on the old pads to push the pistons back
I understand not getting grease and oil on the discs but surely one ride on a wet road a your rotors will be covered in grime?
Water is not grease. Water will evaporate off quickly, grease not so much.
Just what i needed, for some reason i stumbled onto a set that just won't bed in no matter what i try. I'll give scuffing up the discs and the water wiping on the pads.
Slx 7120 for me sintered finned pads and magura 220 discs.
Thinking of making a road bike with 160 and 140 discs for a speed demon
Just in time for my new MTB.
I like to use a Dremel w/a sanding wheel to dress the pads and rotor.
At 0:05 when you drop a hammer on your toe or lose the smallest bit off of a component
What happened if my brakes don´t have that wheel on the lever? I have sram guide... and my bite point is far away and the lever is close to the hand bar.... any help please
Hi, I currently run some nukeproof semi metallic pads on my sram guide r brakes and I have an issue with them, I followed this video to bed them in and they keep glazing over and rubbing, does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks mate
Always wondered about using a blow torch to heat the disc surface, then do brake process from 15mph - almost stop.....
Might work with metal pads but resin pads you’d probably glaze them over as they’d get hot too quickly.
If you have a minimum 180mm rotor mount, could you use a (160 to 180mm) adapter to install a 203mm rotor?
Yes, I use a 20mm adapter and have a 203 rotor, however look for a 180-203 specific adapter as they push the caliper further up the fork instead of away from the fork
@@matthewk7037 Would adding a 3mm washer/spacer work to add that 3mm to a 20mm adapter? Is that *safe IYO?
@@joeMopar412 can’t really advise you on that as I have never tried, I suppose it depends on your bolt length, can you take 3mm off the usable bolt threads and still have a safe amount of it holding on your caliper? I suggest buying a proper 203 adapter such as this www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/lifeline-disc-brake-adaptor-post-to-post-/rp-prod155580?gs=1&sku=sku568355&PLA%2BAll%2BProducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw47eFBhA9EiwAy8kzNN9HT7PWgRlHSQrW4IWjwKZyPUHEzi8C0DvQyPBfK_6Uqcuf1sXaGhoC0XgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds they are very cheap
#GMBNASK hi Doddy, is there any problem with using metal or half metal pads on resin only disks? If there is or isn’t, what would happen? Thanks and for all the help so far. Keep up the good work
You can but the disc will discolour as they aren’t heat treated to take abuse from metal pads
When bedding in the pads no need to travel at 10/15 mph at the start just ride the bike in an easy gear with the brake slightly pulled and keep increasing the pressure. And do this if your brakes de side to squal on the trail
This is a little much... If you are putting the same pads in you were previously using this isn't all that necessary.
Just Wipe the rotor with a clean towel. Throw new pads in and pedal around for 5 minutes lightly applying the brake. Occasionally let off and then reapply brake. Good to go baby!
What is the seat range min and max?
I just felt like commenting so. Yeah
Also what are your thoughts on the trek X-caliber 9 i was thinking of buying it. Thanks 👍
solid bike mate brothers just got the slash nothing to complain so far
the QR is annoying, but otherwise it's a solid XC bike. I'd still rather something from Radon though.
I can’t believe it I literally just got brand new brakes today and was looking for a video to bed them in quickly
Btw first comment
Is a 14.5 kg bike light?
What’s dragging your brakes mean?
#askgmbntech hey Doddy, I ordered a Polygon Siskiu T8. I'm concerned because it has resin only rotors but I'm quite certain it has ceramic pads. is this going to be an issue?
doddy how have you gone through the pads so quickly when you've not had the bike too long
Willing to bet he rides a whole lot more than you do. 🤷🏼♂️
Anyone know what ergon grips they are ? *non-brake related 😅
Scotchbrite is your friend here.
Ill start to carry a whole roll of paper towel to be sure.
Start of the video made me laugh so much I had to write my first comment on RUclips!
As were on the subject of brake pads, anyone used ceramic compound?
i used a ORBITAL SANDER and SPUN the Wheel to Scuff up the ROTORS !!!!!!!!!!
Gives it a Better Fininish
Like Machining Rotors on a CAR
What's the best brake pads material and how can I know that my pads are worn?
material is dependant on your riding and preferences/priorities and there are ceramic and kevlar too apart from ones you know. Wear is more important than people think, cause I got mine to a point where 2 steel pins were sticking through pad material, and digging a groove on the disc, but were not giving signs when riding on flat to mild terrain. A bit below half the pad material thickness is where you need to have spare set ready I'd say and replace then but not like panicmode -mild trails or footpaths ride obviously will not expose pins straight away. The pins sticked out when the pads were really thin, maybe @ quarter thickness or slightly less
@@polishguywithhardtospellna8227 thanks for the answer, but what pad material has the most stopping power on the same disc, caliper, wet or dry conditions
@@dave_xc Short answer is full metal sintered pad. But you need to read some yourself, disc should be compatible or you can rip through the disc fast with sintered pads. They also not very good for mild riding, they like heat. You might wanna watch this ruclips.net/video/q65sbSmHZds/видео.html
@@dave_xc You might also have a look at those tested brakes website, they have a very usefull chart for brake pads. Discobrakes . com
Organic Swiss Stop pads. The best.
🤣🤣🤣 my coffee is now on the floor cheers Doddy🤣👌🏻
I wish car brakes were this easy on the side of the road 😂 had to do it once to a friends car but hey made $200 out of it. Cheaper than a tow
So where did bedding your pads come from in the 1st place? I can't remember seeing it said on any brake pad, rotor, or brake system component, instructions or packaging, only in online searches, from '3rd party' folks. Considering it allows for proper braking, you'd think a manufacture would list it somewhere prominent. I'm mean brakes are what stops you from running into things and bad things happening.
Of the disc brakes on my 2 bikes, I've never bedded them, and 3 out of the 4 worked great out of the box. The 4th one, front brake on my Mtb, doesn't want to grip right for more than a couple days no matter what I do. I've cleaned, replaced, sanded, re-cleaned, and tried bedding them (for kicks) many, many times, checked/bled the fluid (always looks fine, no air bubbles). The rear brakes on the same bike, like both ones the RD bike, awesome out of the box. Odd and very annoying.
Just wondering...
Best intro 🤣🤣
I'm new to disc brakes. I'm just setting up a new bike now and I already miss the simplicity of rim brakes. This bedding in process seems like BS. I'll give it a chance
Very different advice from another GMBN video I’ve just watched which said to pull much harder, douse with water and repeat 😂
A piece of sewing thread tieing e-clip to a bolt on brake caliper will solve the issue of lost e-clips at the trail and will help with getting them off
don't use screws/bolts, just a piece of bendy wire, will suffice - no tools needed!
whose got sandpaper and gloves and ipa in their fanny pack out on a ride? otherwise, good info, especially the water on your new pads thing. I saw that Marshy thing too. 👍
can we see that full clip of doddy at 0:05
While "bedding in" is a real thing, don't to think that's it's much ado about something that can happen naturally after a few spins around the block. I mean, do we need countless videos on it?
Helpful explanation. Would be even easier to follow if said "actually" less frequently.
what you really dont want to do is "roughen the surface up" lie shown in 5:25 . brake rotors need to be as smooth as possible. below rz25. If you use 80 grid you might as well stop with your feed....
I used 240
Will sticking a piece of inner tube on the back of brake pads help reduce vibration and thus noise? Anyone ever tried it?
It shouldn't be vibrating at all.
You wouldn't have the clearance so if you managed to actually install the pads they would be locked on.. Plus the heat would be an issue... You can make adjustments while bleeding if you know what you're doing
Fuuuudge...???
What u say when u loose that tiny safety clip!
Who carries all that stuff on a ride? Lol
Doddy does
any clever guy?
@RollinRat lol
@@riccardocolombo7108 lol
What you don't put a roll of shop towels and a can of brake cleaner in your hip pack every ride? Pffffff
I've always polluted my pads way before ever wearing them out.....🤦
Like to how for to #Moutainbiking fit and bed in. Disk Brake pedals at the so to trailhead tids for bedding in a good termins in the so session's 🤘#GMBNTech in #GMBN thanks guy
I dont usually have brake cleaner or sandpaper at the trailhead, maybe i should put them in my bumbag
My pads are held in place with a cotter pin, that require a pair of pliers to remove them or some creative whacking and prying lol
I think you mean split-pin
The contact point adjustment isnt to compensate for pad wear at all...it's a set up preference for bite point.
It should Not be adjusted as part of changing pads.
Yeah, that was a weird instruction. All modern hydraulic brakes are "open system" meaning they adjust themselves for pad wear. Only older "closed system" hydraulics require manual adjustment for wear.
Doddy! Holy hell tear that sandpaper smaller! You are scratching everything within a 20cm radius of the rotor too! 😖
Yeah let me just get my shop towel roll and brake cleaner out my hip pack😂
Was about to say, that's half a workshop in that hip pack. 😎
Fuuuuuuuu we've all been there. Ive once taken my front brake off it coz it was worn
Seems like it be faster to just throw on new brake pads n let em bed in themselves🤘
To be pads in you can just ride for 50m or so with the brake pad just lightly brushing touching the disc be careful though
Why take out the wheel?
Didn't know about the water in the brake pads, other than that, that's pretty much how I always bed in my disk brakes 😁. Patience not my thing😐