Warning! Custom Capra - RC Speedy
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- Diving into a full custom Axial Capra build starting with a chassis from RC Speedy. But, was it worth the $300+ for what I received?
Chassis:
RC Speedy: bit.ly/38oKyrX
Axles:
Vanquish Capra Front Axle (Clear): bit.ly/38CnztV
Vanquish Capra Rear Axle (Clear): bit.ly/3niFDNN
Vanquish Capra Servo Mount (Clear): bit.ly/3ldgR0K
Vanquish Capra Rear Axle Shafts: bit.ly/2U4OB4s
Vanquish Capra/SCX10-3 Stub Shafts: bit.ly/2I8LE0x
Vanquish AR44 30/8 Gear Set: bit.ly/3p9LKpd
Vanquish AR44 Spool: bit.ly/359mwza
Incision Capra/SCX10-3 Portal OD Gear Set: bit.ly/3penyCi
Incision Capra/SCX10-3 Portal Std Gear Set: bit.ly/2GN1Fsk
Capra Bearings Kit: bit.ly/3eFr17J
Transmission/Shafts:
Vanquish Products 3 Gear Transmission: bit.ly/2Z2IwYa
UCFab Skid Plate: bit.ly/3eGhOMx
Incision Driveshafts: bit.ly/3ldK9fB
Protek 32p Pinions: bit.ly/3aiZoPQ
Suspension:
Incision 90mm Scale Shocks: bit.ly/35bmsPy
Incision 80mm Scale Shocks: bit.ly/2XmuH7A
Incision Shock Pivot Balls: bit.ly/3etTFYe
Wheels/Tires
Pitbull 2.2 Braven Berserkers: bit.ly/2U7BpvJ
Vanquish 2.2 Beadlocks: bit.ly/3dvJGBT
Vanquish 475 Hubs: bit.ly/3cMfOj8
Electronics
Holmes Puller Pro 540 2700KV: bit.ly/3eEkSaD
Castle Mamba X: bit.ly/2yRwnMU
Vanquish 25t 20mm Servo Horn: bit.ly/2U8bUuw
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80mm shocks all around... Add a 1-1.5 in h nose hoop to finish the moonbuggy chassis, looks chopped, then move front tab to that extension plenty of shock clearance. Kill 3 birds and then have a dialed custom rig. Thanks for the honest review of an awesome custom chassis
I’m really interested in getting one for my Capra. Shock mounts make me hesitate, I don’t have a tig to change it. I really like the moon buggy look. I’d definitely like to get that skid, trans and dig setup on mine now
You could always braze with a torch.
Just FYI, certain grades of stainless are ferromagnetic, and they aren't necessarily "low grades". 304SS is generally considered a fairly high grade of stainless, but magnets stick to it readily. Cold working (e.g. bending) and welding stainless can also affect its magnetic qualities.
some of those welds, I dunno...
But crucially, those shockmounts, both angle and ride height, how does this get past prototype stage? (or even the cad stage)
Yeah, the close up on the front showed serious gaps in the joints. For $300 I understand not doing a bidrsmouth cut on the tubing, but wasn't even lined up well for the weld
They call it a 'moon buggy' because if you raise the ride height another inch or two you'll be on the moon! lol Laughable really.
You can try running the shocks upside down might help with the binding also lower the cg. Just a suggestion. Nice vid. Keep it up.
WAIT THESE AREN'T FOR THE MOON? REFUND PLS.
LOL
U ass!!! Lol
Glad I came across this video. It answers my thoughts of staying with flat rail chassis trucks.
The wheels look really good.
Adding my comment really late here. But my first thought on the shock mounts came after noticing that the mount is not square to the shock. It is parallel to the frame rail. If it was rotated 10 - 15 degrees until it was square to the shock, I think you'd be ok without losing travel height by going shorter. It looks great. I can't wait to find your video that shows your solution and shows it running!
I would put some shock hoops front and rear so you can fix the shock angle and lower the ride height.
I had a similar thought. Or maybe a CNC ali part that bolts into the existing mount and gives shock mount options higher and forward.
Besides the front shock towers, this is a great chassis. Just have to use 80mm shocks, so the ride height isn’t the chassis fault. RCspeedy does offer raised shock mounts as well if you wanted to stick with 90mm units.
I'm running a Puller Pro 2700kv standard mamba x on 4s with my capra. I have zero issues with the gearing, but I do use the aux input to adjust my max power which limits the throttle and rescales it so that at full throttle it'll only get 20% in one mode or 100% in the other. Significantly increases how smooth it is to crawl so I treat it like a high and low range. Now my trx6 in low with a puller pro 3500kv standard doesn't need this power reduction in order to be smooth, but I honestly prefer the electronic high low to the mechanical one.
I went to you website. Buliding the Ibex goat. What a fun chassis
I like my low and slow capra just how it is
Good job Harley with parts listing and very in depth 👍🏿👍🏿
Holy Budget buster that's gorgeous
Still cheaper than the super shafty chassis! $500?...C'mon!!
Putting so much into a custom built chassis deserves getting something a bit better thought out in my opinion. If these issues are not adressed by the manufacturer, I would consider this cage just hip ... At best! Ok it looks beautiful, that I won't say otherwise..... 300$ saved in my pocket is not bad either.
That is pretty awesome.
If money isn't the issue, I would totally go that route.
I’m interested in this setup. Looking past the shock binding. I am glad that you put this build together. I would of not known about shocks binding. I was thinking of 4ws with this setup. Keep the build going .. please!
Looks really good but definitely sitting too high like you said. I’m sure you’ll iron all that out tho. Sure is a Nice rig dude 💯
I’d rather pay that much for a masterclass video set from you. ✊🏽
With all that stainless 8.88mph and time travel is possible. 😆 beautiful build Josh.
they did move the front shock mount's on the R2VFD like yours, I just ordered the A1 (Titanium chassis ) the shock mount's are in the same place as the stock Capra 1.9
Great looking build! For me, scale looks are less important so, yes, this chassis is worth the price. However, at that price, I expect any ride height issue to be addressed or I'm not buying. As for minor fitment issues, those are to be expected, especially with all the build options out there. Keep up the great work 👍
Makes a great shelf queen
You have two choices for the front shock dilemma. Cut and move the top shock mounts, or cut and shorten the four link by about 1/2 inch. That would decrease the shock angle.
Some very high grade stainless materials are magnetic btw. Steels like Duplex or 1.4418, stainless 430 etc are all magnetic 😉
I’m aware that some are, but a very very small amount and definitely not what is commonly used in most RC production.
If they use the same grade stainless in the small areas the high heat would discolor the cage in random areas so they use a softer grade to get the temps for the bond for less eye catching imperfections
Worth it if the shock mounts were correct. Also if there are no interferences with the stock capra skid plate. Not everyone can tig weld in there garage, so the shock mounts must be corrected,
Just so there is no confusion.......nobody has ever been to the moon! $449....on the webpage now.
I would build my own pipe chassis just for the fun.
When you weld stainless and don't treat areas after weld, the will slightly grab a magnet.
Nice Stainless Tig Welds!
I just spent $25 (and free shipping!) on a brand new Integy crawler tube chassis and with all the $$ it is going to take to turn that into a crawler is less then what you spent on this chassis. I don't see where the extra $350 would make me happier at all. I know the Integy is not built as well and doesn't have some of the features your has but so brazing and zip ties will fix all that :)
May I ask, is this about building a dedicated crawler or a nice trail truck. The stock capra is heavy up above already. How does more metal weight on top make it better?
Could run internal sprung shocks as they are thinner if still binds up you might need to make up a set of shock hoops for it
Cool stuff, You forgot to do your end screen...
Those white cerakoted wheels are dope! Ok so RC Speedy moon buggy or super shafty chupa Capra??? I know the rc speedy is 400 grams where chupa is like 257, lighter than plastic Capra chassis
I purchased one of these chases and have had fun with it.
It seem like they changed the shock mount a lil but not sure it’s enough
I run HR internal spring with cut springs for and my Capra runs amazing. Half spring on top of piston and half on bottom
I’ve ran all kinds of those over the years but not something I’d go back to. A proper sprung setup is what has always been proven to win in comp crawling and it works the same in scale. They look good but just leave performance on the table for me.
I definitely have some buyers remorse, but I went with ar44s and 90mm shocks and I’m pretty happy with the stance and ride height however I had similar issues with my Vader 3 gear skid, overall I’m happy with it but definitely agree with the points you raised
It looks like the front axle is too far forward in reference to the chassis which would resolve the front shock binding issue.
I’m looking at the R2 version on the RC Speedy Capra chassis. Do you know if they corrected the front shock hookups on this version to correct the problem of the binding on the front shocks. Thanks for a great channel and it was nice meeting you at Axialfest West last July.
I believe they have made changes. There are still a lot of people who have shock tab failures from poor welds though.
If you're going to cut off the front shock mounts why not do the rear too and reposition them to keep the 90 mm shocks and get the ride height lower? 🤔🤔🤔
For me id stay with the 90mms and redo the mounts that allow for proper suspension movement and ride height
I'm wondering if the welding on those smaller tubes caused the magnetism? I know on SS , if it gets too hot while welding it changes the dynamic of the metal and it can rust and magnets will stick to it
For the shear amount of work it takes to get a tube chassis yeah i think it is worth the money, especially if they fix the front shock issue. And seeing as you pretty handy with a tig welder why don't you weld on your own shock hoops that fix both the ride height and the mount tab angle issue?
I’m sure glad I did not go with this chassis. I hope you do a review on the chupa Capra fro super shafty. That would be super 😎
You could get a starter flux core MIG welder, a spool of wire, gloves and a helmet for a hundred less dollars. Flux core welds will need a little more clean up with a grinder after, but you could learn to build your own chassis for less money. $300 for a chassis that needs work out of the box to get working properly is on the steep side. Honestly the shock mounts front and rear look like they finished the chassis and forgot to put them on.
If I were to compete, I'd definitely consider it. Looks well made.
.... I'm STILL upset about being BOOTED from the Friday Live Feed for an inappropriate comment - WITHOUT A WARNING!! 😠😠
Chit happens. Especially when on this channel or on rcc
@@ryano8613 Chit may happen.... But I've been subbed to, and have talked with, Josh and Nicole since early 2012!!! 😠
I'm a bit beyond butthurt about it.
Pretty sweet brother!! Great review I think you should fabricator your solutions into the project:)
The front shock mounts have been adjusted on the newer chassis. Mine doesn’t bind at full stuff.
ääh custom chassi, nice, canquish transmission, vanquish axle... is there even anything left that makes this a capra? feels much like a ship of theseus
It’s a Capra based, meaning the chassis is made to drop onto a stock Capra, the axles are made for a Capra, the links, the skid, etc etc.
I wonder if you could just heat the shock mounts and twist them a bit
Have you tried flipping the shock upside down so that the shock cap doesn't hit the mount? I like doing this for LCG, too. May help to get the articulation that you are looking for before you start getting into cutting on your 300.oo custom gold plated chassis! J/K. Beautiful build!
Looks like it's welded with silicon bronze. Which makes the welds look that way. The price point is right for the materials used, and skill, but just not for everyone.
Thanks for sharing this build. Can you list the part number for the hot racing steering knuckles? Do you need the cap as well?
Ride height too high??? Maybe it cuz they built a “capra based chassis” off of a capra that is *designed* to run 1.9 wheels and tires. I bet that would fix that issue.
But. The shock mount issue, that sucks. I hope that can be fixed.
I would be ok with the little minor tweaks, but something like the shock mounts would really upset me. So for me this chassie would be a bust
Looks very cool. With the steel chassis...is it top heavy?
I did something similar but I used a cheaper Chassis and turn out great but I'm getting an overheating problem so now I'm switching out the capra transmission for a three gear
I wouldn't get that set up. If you flipped the shocks would that help the binding ??
Finally a normal video lol.
correct me if i'm wrong but isn't the standard capra skidplate lower then this UCFAB version? Don't know if it resolves the upperlinks binding but it would help the driveshaft clearance. Also shortening the front links (with that the wheelbase) might also be an option to cure the binding issue on the shocks. Although this shouldn't be necessary since it is sold as an capra based cage.
Yeah, I mentioned that those issues were not the chassis at fault. I don’t want to run a stock skid though. I’ll make the modifications and get it running.
Use those old shock mounts to bolt up your own shock tower mount and run 110 mm up front
Eeek, I can’t say I’d even want to run that tall of a shock. Real moon buggies generally keep mounts tight to the tube work, the shocks should stay roughly where they are but at a better angle is all. An 80mm shock will likely be my goal.
Will u sell it and do they have something like that for the bomber
Might not be ideal, but can you flip the shocks upside down?
It really seems like your side body panels are reversed. The curved part of the side panel seems like it should be in the front. The bolt pattern would obviously dictate the layout though. Like the build though. any plans for 4WS?
It also looks, based on the shock mounts, that it was designed for shorter lower links...lower links may just need a bent.
It was designed for a stock capra, so the links are supposed to be this length. The design was just not completed properly, likely it was built at full extension and suspension travel was not compensated for. Shortening the wheelbase would make this sub-12" wheelbase and that's just not acceptable.
Dlux sells offset shock caps that would lower ride height and push your shock to a more acceptable angle.
Those just don’t look scale enough to run on a scale truck for me.
@@HarleyDesignsInc who are you? You just used "scale" twice in one sentence.... Omg is Matt finally rubbing off on you 😳
I noticed on your driveshafts that the female side is on the axle housing. I run female side from transmission to help prevent stuff from getting down in the female side of the driveshaft.
I run the female side towards the front of the car (Axle side on front axle and trans side on rear axle). This is so there is no hard lip when moving forward if it snags a rock.
i am interested in what you think about those tires ive been tryin to break my set in all summer there still no match for my china cloned austar superswampers that were on the rig before and almost bald atleast in the hot dry rock of johnson valley for the $100 those brazerkers cost i dont see them being 5 times better but ive only used them on dry rock im hoping they work better in the cold and wet
the brazerker iron sides in 4.19 on the cc01 kick but i have no idea why the braven brazerkers arent workin
Turn the front shock round ie upside down
Lets see how it maneuvers
I'm more interested in those tires but how does Pitbull's tire compound stack up against Proline's G?
Honestly, looks like everything forward of the A pillar should be re-engineered. I'd be pretty pissed to spend that kind of money and get that. Digging the wheel tire combo though.
Its a nice looking chassis but few of those welds that I seen and the shock mounting positions you mentioned, it really takes away the justification of a 300+ dollar purchase. Still everything you priced out in the description comes to be over two grand as it is. So that thing better perform immaculately.
Weld on your own 🖖🏻🖖🏻
would flipping the shocks upside down solve the binding issue?
What do you guys think of the carbon fiber chassis from Banggood that cost $369.99?
worth every penny!
can't you flip the front shocks upside down?
Honest question, what makes this a Capra if nothing on it is from a Capra? (skid plate, cage, axles, trans, etc) Is it just the links and width?
It’s the fact that the axles, skid, chassis, links, etc are all designed as Capra parts.
Nice looking, but not worth $300 IMO. Thanks for the insight as always
This chassis looks great and super scale. Pretty sure thats what they went for. Seen one of those real moon crawlers in person. They ran full droop, also if you were to scale up yours to real world, it would be too long, i imagine shorter links would fix shock mount issues. Not sure if they need to be ‘’fixed’’ or just the build needs to be adjusted.
On the other hand, tapping some holes and making shock mounts adjustable so they fit both super scale and more of an rc type of build should not be hard for manufacturers.
Shorter links could work also but this is sold as a Capra replacement chassis.
@@HarleyDesignsInc makes sense then! Could be that it’s just giving general idea for parts that will fit, axles that they designed it around.
Still they could’ve been much clearer.
Perhaps the steel loses it's magnetivity because of the welding temp -> Curie Temperature.
SSD Knuckles and Portal Cover would look better than the brass.
...man the skid is really high!
Most stainless is not magnetic. I was more surprised to find some that was, likely just lower grade SS in that area.
Cut the shock tab, and re-set, already gone this far, might as well make it right.
Looks great tho not worth the money with the issues you mentioned to spend more time & money to make it perform properly great video Josh
I low my capra how it is... Perfect machines in my opinion
A $100 chassis can have some issues that I have to fix and I don't mind, but a $300 chassis should be better than that.
What hobby shop do you usually shop at?
RC Country in the Sacramento area is my preferred shop.
@@HarleyDesignsIncok I live in woodland CA, near Sacramento. I went there once to get parts for red-cat gen. 8 kit
A good deal of stainless tubing does have a small amount of magnetism. The basic answer to your question is, no. In that there is maybe $20 of stainless tubing used. A halfway decent home a fabricator could make this chassis for $25 If all of these stainless tubing is not of the same variety I sure hope it was welded with 312 stainless rod. The over all build looks gorgeous, but the chassis is not worth $300 by any means
Flip your shock upside down should clear and move weight lower
What if you flip the shock over? The bottom has a bit more room for it to flex.
...and angled rodends.
That’s a possible option that may help but not something I’d ideally want for style.
Worth it
Cut the mounts and make your own. You can so why not? It’s a custom build so customize it! It will be a good video.
Stainless chassis, bit too top heavy, ride height a bit too high for me. The ft shock mounts are definitely a deal breaker for that money.
Fixing it, you could do shock hoops that would fix ride height and shock positioning. OR since you have the tools and skill TIG up the holes, build up the top of the front tab with weld .100 Then redrill the holes at the popper angle.
I want to start a business building custom tube chassis & body's for rc crawlers.
Where do I get a t shirt like the one you are wearing?
From an actual welders standpoint this is not a ridiculous price stainless tube this small is expensive not to mention the equipment to weld it. You say cold welding... no such thing he’s just not adding filler this is typical for thin wall tubing, it’s not weaker. Also 400 series stainless grabs a magnet 300 doesn’t this is likely 304 which is a higher quality. Not sure what the magnet test was about
"Cold TIG" is what I'm referring to, which seems to be a common "feature" advertised on overseas machines and shown in numerous videos. I had never heard of it and had to look it up as the welds generally looked more like laser welds to me at first.