There is no shortage of RUclips videos that demonstrate how to rebuild a disk brake caliper. Most of them skip over the part that involves installing the dust boot because that would extend the video by a couple of hours and demonstrate just how little they actually understand about how to do this properly. Most of those videos contain one or more viewer comments that describe the technique of using low pressure shop air to help seat the boot. Rarely are those comments ever detailed enough to help someone visualize exactly how this is accomplished. This video however does an exceptional job of demonstrating this process and thus turning what would otherwise be a very difficult job in to one that just about anyone can do. This is a very well done video. Thank you very much for making and posting it.
Just rebuilt an old subaru caliper using this as reference. The valve stem + footpump to get the dust boot over the piston was a particularly good tip! I´m just a "youtube mechanic" and this repair was super easy following these instructions. Thanks!
IT WORKED. Your method for seating the piston boot(s). Tried 3 other ways that failed. Yours took less than 2 minutes. Recap. Fit boot onto base of piston. With cylinder end of boot extending past piston. Leaves room to squeeze the boot. Grease the cylinder to accept the boot. ANGLE the Boot and piston in so most of the boot is in the cylinder grove. GENTLY work the rest of the boot into the grove with screwdriver. Went easy with all that grease and no piston to block the boot. THEN seat the piston into the cylinder. Press piston all the way in. Listen for the boot to drop into the piston grove. AWESOME. Thank you, Mitch
Fantastic! Blowing out the seal with compressed air is genius! Not even the Civic repair manual suggested this. All other instructions & videos I saw about getting the seal installed were hit & miss affairs, I will surely do it this way. I am in the process of rebuilding my Civic '95 front brakes & I will do it this way. Thanks for the genius trick.
Man oh Man This is by Far the best Caliper rebuild video i have ever seen, i have just bought new calipers for my ford escape, wish i had seen this video before.
This is the first video on this I found that shows a great way of getting the seal back right. Just put it in before the piston, then put the piston in and block it, and pump the seal back out with air, genius! I did this job myself for the first time yesterday and I really struggled with that seal. Now I know what to do next time. Thanks! 🙂👍🏻
dude the trick with the foot pump is genius! I've been screaming at my stupid caliper for an hour now struggling to get the bloody thing back together, thanks :)
Great technique using the valve stem. I will be using it now. Thanks!! For those that may question why rebuild? In my case a caliper rebuild kit without piston (my piston is not pitted ok to use) is $4.99. A Wearever Remanufactured Friction Choice Brake Calipers are between $65.99 --$73.99. And you still have to remove & replace it. Also if you are driving that particular vehicle to parts store you have to lay out an additional ( but refundable ) core charge of $75.00 and go back for the refund.
Pumping out the cylinder sleeve is epic! I put the cylinder in the sleeve in a way that I can still put in the outer lip, but that way I can't make sure it fits perfectly as you did...nice
I ended up popping the piston out last night while changing brakes and wish I would have seen this last night. Going to try it out now! Thanks for the video!
Thank you for putting together and posting this video. It was nicely filmed and, as an engineer, I can say that your method was very well explained and technically sound/logical. I was fairly certain I could sort it out on my own but having your tips and techniques in mind allowed the job go far more quickly and easily (and without some potential pitfalls) that it likely would have otherwise. In short, it allowed me to rebuild the calipers for my wife's car and saved us several hundred dollars in new parts that were really quite unnecessary and I had fun doing it! Thanks again and I'd encourage your to post more videos like this one that so many folks can learn and benefit from.
Thank you sir! Don't listen to the no smile comments. It's who you are--and no one will mess with you as it's intimidating. I pushed the piston out directly with a 10 mm dia. wood dowel thinking I was short-circuiting the need for compressed air and the jerry-rigged valve. Imagine my chagrin when I saw the compressed air used again for advancing the seal/boot! Now I'm thinking of replacing the caliper altogether as I've not yet purchased the rebuild kit.
Thank you x1000. I was ready to smash a window trying to fit the dust seal into place but then I tried your method of blowing the dust boot out. Used an air compressor instead. Trying to squeeze the dust seal in the caliper groove with a screwdriver is tighter than a nun! This job is almost impossible without an air compressor (or pressure system) of some sort. Liked and subbed!!
That's a crafty approach with the foot pump! Well done video and very helpful on doing the brakes. Considering myself fortunate to have found your guide.Thanks.
Hi, I'm doing caliper rebuild, ant search your video. Finally I successfully did it your style inserting caliper rubber boot by pumping it..much easier and safe time :) Thanks again for sharing
If you have a sand blasting booth you can add to this job a rust removal and a paint job on the callipers, then you get virtually NEW callipers, did this on my land cruiser and they work great!
I just wanted to thank you sir for that dust boot trick you used, it saved me a lot of work, clean and fast, never thought of that. Thank you again, I'll keep an eye on you, for sure I will learn something new :)
Just wanted to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I managed to test my caliper using the technique your shown on the video, Highly appreciate your help on this.... :)
Wonderful job! Thank you :-) I had no idea how to get the rubber boot back on until I saw this. Much easier just to remove the piston and follow your method.
These are the precious secrets you cannot find in a book...The foot pump,the tyre valve,boot in first..Wonderful wonderful stuff! Dying to try it all out...Anybody with a seized caliper piston ??
On my first attempt the seal split when pushing it out with the air. I don't know why. I had two and on the second go everything was perfect. Thank you for making this easy.
Nice presentation, however, I find the alternative way to push the piston in order to replace the new seal kit and so on. Leave the caliper on the car by using wire to hold it, then put the strong plastic bag to hold caliper or using a rug under caliper to catch brake fluid. Then you can slowly push the brake padel and watch the piston come out slow and stop brake padel. For these people who don't have special tools, this way is easy to see piston come out. When you push the brake panel, you have to be patience. After installing the rebuild caliper, you have to bleed brakes.
Fantastic video. The H*ynes Manual for the Jazz describes calipers that are completely different to what's fitted and hence no good for working out what to do. (Your Civic is the same as the Jazz) I wasn't sure how much to push the new piston in before doing the foot pump trick, over did it and split the seal so beware! Luckily the old seal was OK and I held the piston in place using one hand against the seal whilst pumping with the other and the technique worked like a dream. Thanks for saving me a lot of time and effort!
Making that valve stem into a tool to get the piston out is key to the whole procedure. I wish that you would have shown how you made it. It's not clear to me where to cut or how to shape it. Did you use a grinding wheel? I don't understand how it bolts into the hole when it's not threaded.
Thanks! Nice to see a tutorial with basic tools and usefull tips to do this kind of a fiddly job. The valve trick is something I definitely want to give it a go.
I like your technique putting the rubber boots first then piston with a pressure. I have a trouble putting it. I use to use other technique by putting the rubber boot to piston then fit in the caliper. Sometimes lucky takes a few minutes.. sometimes takes an hour :) Thanks for the nice tips and please make a smile to a camera (scaring me Lol)
uknow an easy tip on refitting the seal is.. where the seal is the most difficult to reach around to seal onto caliper, simply rotate the seal so the unsealed area is visible & then seal it up ie rotate the seal say 45-90 degrees & the unsealed area will be visible & easy to work with.
Good process. Clever use of air pump and valve stem. Good that you used new piston. Suggestion: To ease removal of rust from seal groves use Naval Jelly. If rust is light and you have time you can use 50/50 water/white vinegar and soak overnight. Naval jelly is faster and better though. It will not harm the critical surfaces.
@@bottmar1 Might work too good. You only need to get the pistons out slightly unless you are doing a dismantle. The brake lever definitely moves the piston well, just don't go too far doing the circus act (lever up here, caliper down there), and pop the piston(s) all the way out. A short piece of strap the same width, maybe just a little thinner than the rotor, would do it. Pull caliper, slip your shim in there, pump them out like no tomorrow. All good.
thanks backstreet mr. mechanic. leaving that rust in the groove is a job wrecker - darn motorcycle dealers i think dont even bother stocking the repair parts, they just add up new calipers. a crying shame. well done hombre.
You sir are the man :) i was struggling putting the rubber seal on the piston, because on the japanese cars the seal is hold by a metal ring hence you cannot put the seal while moving the piston inside. You should put the seal first and then somehow snug the piston in, however some seals have very small center holes, so its crazy hard to do :) but using air to do this seems to make it an easy job.
I have a Lexus GS300 and rebuilding my brakes now. You are correct in they have a spring clip to hold the boot in place, very fiddly. The method I used is to insert the square shape seal in the cylinder, then push the piston in till the shoulder is level with the groove for the boot then fit the boot. Using the air to push out the piston, slowly, and the boot then fits into the outer groove. I have tried lots of methods and found this works best. Sorry but your method can tear the boot if its a tight fit.
Thanks v much for the great tips. And all with such simple and economic tools...and no BS! Am about to try a 4 piston Landcruiser rebuild. Greetings from SW Australia!
The "slightly rougher" - but equally effective - way to get the piston out is to stick a metal rod that fits through the hose-hole loosely, in - caliper in a vise - and give it a whack with a hammer. That works when the piston is genuinely stuck solid & no amount of air will budge it - it will hammer out easily. If you (cough) don't have a new seal to hand, you can let the old seal sit in some atf for a few minutes - ATF contains good stuff for seals, the seal will emerge newly flexible, not swollen & nice & supple. Give it a good clean with tissue & she's good to go. Usually the groove the seal & dust boot sit into will be mangy, the piston will be mangy but the caliper itself will be pretty mint inside(grooves aside). You can give the piston a good twirl inside some sandpaper & it usually comes up clean as a whistle & clean the grooves as well - they need to be spotless.. You can then re-assemble the lot, it will still be tight as factory, it will function perfectly for years more & you don't have to go shopping.. Also, if you have rust building up in your calipers, your fluids no good - it's absorbed water. Clean fluid does not allow rust to develop, water in the fluid does - so drain ALL the fluid & start again with fresh. One of them vacuum oil-suckers is the best brake bleeder ever invented - use a bit of rubber hose on the end of the hard sucker hose, pop it over the nipple & let it suck - no dicking about pedaliing pedals, no helper required & it will bleed the hardest to bleed system going in 5 minutes flat. Fellow Paddy btw.. enjoyed the vid.. :-)
When you said that you've previously "knocked" the piston out from the back, what did you mean? Now you say you should be able to get it out with "just" the foot pump, as if you got it out some other way initially. Some key details are omitted here.
Thank you for very educational video.. Do you think that new parts be worth it, i mean, new caliper cost a few tenner.. At least, always may be could to clean these parts properly, before fit new parts in, what you think..?
Thanks for this. I need to do 2 calipers on my Subaru Outback and I think you have just made my life a lot easier. Lived in Dublin for a few years as well. Lovely city, great folks.
you dont need a valve and air pressure to pull out the piston..you have to press the brake pedal first to pressure out the piston before you remove the flexible hose
thank you for the tip never would have thought to use a valve stem. i didnt know this was how to get the rubber boot back together i got to this point and was puzzled everything was already apart...lol
You have explained things well, but why go to all the trouble rebuilding the caliper when you can buy the caliper rebuilt ready to go on for only a few bucks more? I just rebuilt a caliper with pistons from both sides for a versatile tractor. Kit was over $200 and took lots of time and frustration. Used calipers for this tractor can be $1000 Rubber grease? where would you buy that? I just used brake fluid to lube piston seal etc. Thanks for posting this video.
Nice one mate,,, Good video,, Just struggled for 2 hours trying to get an x trail seal to seat,,,,, wish I'd found your video first it would have made the job much easier..
I liked this video very much. The explanation was so clear and logical. One question. When I have to rebuild a component from my personal vehicles, I try to restore it to original appearance., even if doing so has no effect on performance. Knowing that the piston and seals were to be replaced, if you wanted to do a more thorough job of removing all debris and corrosion from the exterior of the caliper body, would you see a problem with leaving them in place, capping the valve stem, and carefully using a strong corrosion removal chemical like naval jelly? This has worked for me on Honda cast iron caliper frames, but I've never tried it on a caliper body.
Not fully sure you had the best approach, but the proof as they say is in the pudding, my favourite way is to remove the pads by releasing the bleed nipple, then retighten and press the foot brake firmly to the floor, making sure to place a pan to collect the fluid, out it pops and just clamp the pipe and remove the caliper. Funny but in the past I have inserted the boot onto the Piston and then inserted them as a pair into the Bore, figuering it was easier than inserting the boot first. Mr Spence Eng
I like this video alot but just a tip for some: I found a $22 used caliper on ebay and that was with free shipping. Some salvage parts people on ebay give such cheap used parts that a rebuild becomes more costly due to labor and the rebuild kits.
Great video. Did you just clamp the tube so it wouldn't spill? Is there a way to plug the tube. I want to paint the calipers. Wondering how to stop the liquid from pouring.
There is no shortage of RUclips videos that demonstrate how to rebuild a disk brake caliper. Most of them skip over the part that involves installing the dust boot because that would extend the video by a couple of hours and demonstrate just how little they actually understand about how to do this properly. Most of those videos contain one or more viewer comments that describe the technique of using low pressure shop air to help seat the boot. Rarely are those comments ever detailed enough to help someone visualize exactly how this is accomplished. This video however does an exceptional job of demonstrating this process and thus turning what would otherwise be a very difficult job in to one that just about anyone can do. This is a very well done video. Thank you very much for making and posting it.
It’s no wonder back street dealers hate you tube when you’ve got a guy like this showing you how easy it is.great stuff mate.
By far the best caliper refurb video on youtube...pure genius
Just rebuilt an old subaru caliper using this as reference. The valve stem + footpump to get the dust boot over the piston was a particularly good tip!
I´m just a "youtube mechanic" and this repair was super easy following these instructions. Thanks!
IT WORKED. Your method for seating the piston boot(s). Tried 3 other ways that failed. Yours took less than 2 minutes.
Recap. Fit boot onto base of piston. With cylinder end of boot extending past piston. Leaves room to squeeze the boot. Grease the cylinder to accept the boot. ANGLE the Boot and piston in so most of the boot is in the cylinder grove. GENTLY work the rest of the boot into the grove with screwdriver. Went easy with all that grease and no piston to block the boot. THEN seat the piston into the cylinder. Press piston all the way in. Listen for the boot to drop into the piston grove. AWESOME. Thank you, Mitch
Fantastic! Blowing out the seal with compressed air is genius! Not even the Civic repair manual suggested this. All other instructions & videos I saw about getting the seal installed were hit & miss affairs, I will surely do it this way. I am in the process of rebuilding my Civic '95 front brakes & I will do it this way. Thanks for the genius trick.
Man oh Man This is by Far the best Caliper rebuild video i have ever seen, i have just bought new calipers for my ford escape, wish i had seen this video before.
This is the first video on this I found that shows a great way of getting the seal back right. Just put it in before the piston, then put the piston in and block it, and pump the seal back out with air, genius!
I did this job myself for the first time yesterday and I really struggled with that seal. Now I know what to do next time. Thanks! 🙂👍🏻
On my BMW X5, We moved the piston out with the brake pedal before removing caliper, stopped it with a block of wood. THIS IS A GOOD VIDEO.
dude the trick with the foot pump is genius! I've been screaming at my stupid caliper for an hour now struggling to get the bloody thing back together, thanks :)
Wow, after trying a different method for 3 hours I found your video. I just finished my caliper paint and rebuild on my 06 S2000. Thank you so much!!!
Great technique using the valve stem. I will be using it now. Thanks!!
For those that may question why rebuild? In my case a caliper rebuild kit without piston
(my piston is not pitted ok to use) is $4.99. A Wearever Remanufactured Friction Choice Brake Calipers are between $65.99 --$73.99. And you still have to remove & replace it. Also if you are driving that particular vehicle to parts store you have to lay out an additional ( but refundable ) core charge of $75.00 and go back for the refund.
@JOEZEP54. The greatest technique is using the brake pedal to pump the piston out. Works on every one of them.
Excellent video, thank you. I like that you did it with very basic tools. At 67 and a lifetime of DIY on cars, I learned from your lesson.
Explanation and presentation is so clear well arranged. I as a layman do appreciate your effort.
Great trick there with the pump blowing the dust boot over the piston. Thanks for sharing.
Pumping out the cylinder sleeve is epic! I put the cylinder in the sleeve in a way that I can still put in the outer lip, but that way I can't make sure it fits perfectly as you did...nice
I ended up popping the piston out last night while changing brakes and wish I would have seen this last night. Going to try it out now! Thanks for the video!
Thank you for putting together and posting this video. It was nicely filmed and, as an engineer, I can say that your method was very well explained and technically sound/logical. I was fairly certain I could sort it out on my own but having your tips and techniques in mind allowed the job go far more quickly and easily (and without some potential pitfalls) that it likely would have otherwise. In short, it allowed me to rebuild the calipers for my wife's car and saved us several hundred dollars in new parts that were really quite unnecessary and I had fun doing it! Thanks again and I'd encourage your to post more videos like this one that so many folks can learn and benefit from.
Thank you! for such a positive and detailed comment.
+backstreetmechanic Copper is the pigmentation in hair.
Excellent demonstration with no distracting music or unnecessary commentary.
Just used your air pressure method using a bike hand pump. Worked like a charm after struggling with the other methods.
Thank you sir!
Don't listen to the no smile comments. It's who you are--and no one will mess with you as it's intimidating.
I pushed the piston out directly with a 10 mm dia. wood dowel thinking I was short-circuiting the need for compressed air and the jerry-rigged valve. Imagine my chagrin when I saw the compressed air used again for advancing the seal/boot! Now I'm thinking of replacing the caliper altogether as I've not yet purchased the rebuild kit.
Thank you x1000. I was ready to smash a window trying to fit the dust seal into place but then I tried your method of blowing the dust boot out. Used an air compressor instead. Trying to squeeze the dust seal in the caliper groove with a screwdriver is tighter than a nun! This job is almost impossible without an air compressor (or pressure system) of some sort. Liked and subbed!!
That's a crafty approach with the foot pump! Well done video and very helpful on doing the brakes. Considering myself fortunate to have found your guide.Thanks.
this is exactly what i was looking for. google is so smart that it reads my mind & put it in front of me. excellent demo.
Nice idea with the foot pump swelling the seal...I love it.
Hi, I'm doing caliper rebuild, ant search your video. Finally I successfully did it your style inserting caliper rubber boot by pumping it..much easier and safe time :) Thanks again for sharing
ive seen many tricks on how to install the rubber..well you got the most easy and the better work sir,tq very much
wow man!!! now i can rebuilt my caliper!! you saved me a LOTS of money thanks so much!!!!
If you have a sand blasting booth you can add to this job a rust removal and a paint job on the callipers, then you get virtually NEW callipers, did this on my land cruiser and they work great!
thanks for taking the time to do this. we are learning from your life experience. thanking jesus as well, for you!
I just wanted to thank you sir for that dust boot trick you used, it saved me a lot of work, clean and fast, never thought of that. Thank you again, I'll keep an eye on you, for sure I will learn something new :)
Nice tricks i am 52 and learned something today.
i know how to rebuild them but i learned something new today that makes the job easier thank you keep on trucking....
Just wanted to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I managed to test my caliper using the technique your shown on the video, Highly appreciate your help on this.... :)
Managed to do the overhaul today, worked like a charm! Specialized lubrication paste for hydraulic braking parts, helped a lot also.
Wonderful job! Thank you :-) I had no idea how to get the rubber boot back on until I saw this. Much easier just to remove the piston and follow your method.
Thanks for sharing. Brilliant advice on getting the boot onto the piston with compressed air. Worked like a charm.
These are the precious secrets you cannot find in a book...The foot pump,the tyre valve,boot in first..Wonderful wonderful stuff! Dying to try it all out...Anybody with a seized caliper piston ??
ToneDeafecation One of the best maintenance vid's I've ever seen. Hats off to this guy!
On my first attempt the seal split when pushing it out with the air. I don't know why. I had two and on the second go everything was perfect. Thank you for making this easy.
Like your idea of using a tyre valve. Genius.
Appreciate the vid. Ur valve stem trick saved 3 of my caliper pistons!..Sadly i didnt search for this until after sacrificing my first one
I have been struggling with similar brake seal. This tyre pump trick is brilliant .. I’ll try this tomorrow ... thanks for a great And helpful vid.
Very Nice...especially the piston re-install steps..pretty slick. Thanks...
Nice presentation, however, I find the alternative way to push the piston in order to replace the new seal kit and so on. Leave the caliper on the car by using wire to hold it, then put the strong plastic bag to hold caliper or using a rug under caliper to catch brake fluid. Then you can slowly push the brake padel and watch the piston come out slow and stop brake padel. For these people who don't have special tools, this way is easy to see piston come out. When you push the brake panel, you have to be patience. After installing the rebuild caliper, you have to bleed brakes.
Excellent! The two who left a thumbs down must have been a dealer service who didn't make an easy buck!!!
Fantastic video. The H*ynes Manual for the Jazz describes calipers that are completely different to what's fitted and hence no good for working out what to do. (Your Civic is the same as the Jazz)
I wasn't sure how much to push the new piston in before doing the foot pump trick, over did it and split the seal so beware! Luckily the old seal was OK and I held the piston in place using one hand against the seal whilst pumping with the other and the technique worked like a dream.
Thanks for saving me a lot of time and effort!
Making that valve stem into a tool to get the piston out is key to the whole procedure. I wish that you would have shown how you made it. It's not clear to me where to cut or how to shape it. Did you use a grinding wheel? I don't understand how it bolts into the hole when it's not threaded.
Thanks! Nice to see a tutorial with basic tools and usefull tips to do this kind of a fiddly job. The valve trick is something I definitely want to give it a go.
I like your technique putting the rubber boots first then piston with a pressure. I have a trouble putting it. I use to use other technique by putting the rubber boot to piston then fit in the caliper. Sometimes lucky takes a few minutes.. sometimes takes an hour :)
Thanks for the nice tips and please make a smile to a camera (scaring me Lol)
He IS smiling!!You should see him when he's annoyed!!
uknow an easy tip on refitting the seal is.. where the seal is the most difficult to reach around to seal onto caliper, simply rotate the seal so the unsealed area is visible & then seal it up
ie rotate the seal say 45-90 degrees & the unsealed area will be visible & easy to work with.
Good process. Clever use of air pump and valve stem. Good that you used new piston.
Suggestion: To ease removal of rust from seal groves use Naval Jelly. If rust is light and you have time you can use 50/50 water/white vinegar and soak overnight. Naval jelly is faster and better though. It will not harm the critical surfaces.
@x-man5056. It would be more clever to pump the piston out with the brake lever. Works every time.
@@bottmar1 Might work too good. You only need to get the pistons out slightly unless you are doing a dismantle. The brake lever definitely moves the piston well, just don't go too far doing the circus act (lever up here, caliper down there), and pop the piston(s) all the way out. A short piece of strap the same width, maybe just a little thinner than the rotor, would do it. Pull caliper, slip your shim in there, pump them out like no tomorrow. All good.
How you used air to put the boot onto the piston was like an epiphany to me. Thanks so much.
thanks backstreet mr. mechanic. leaving that rust in the groove is a job wrecker - darn motorcycle dealers i think dont even bother stocking the repair parts, they just add up new calipers. a crying shame. well done hombre.
You sir are the man :) i was struggling putting the rubber seal on the piston, because on the japanese cars the seal is hold by a metal ring hence you cannot put the seal while moving the piston inside. You should put the seal first and then somehow snug the piston in, however some seals have very small center holes, so its crazy hard to do :) but using air to do this seems to make it an easy job.
I have a Lexus GS300 and rebuilding my brakes now. You are correct in they have a spring clip to hold the boot in place, very fiddly. The method I used is to insert the square shape seal in the cylinder, then push the piston in till the shoulder is level with the groove for the boot then fit the boot. Using the air to push out the piston, slowly, and the boot then fits into the outer groove. I have tried lots of methods and found this works best. Sorry but your method can tear the boot if its a tight fit.
Thanks v much for the great tips. And all with such simple and economic tools...and no BS! Am about to try a 4 piston Landcruiser rebuild. Greetings from SW Australia!
This was great: easy to follow and to understand. I’ll be using your help on a Honda Stepwagon (similar calipers) this coming weekend.
Excellent work and illustrated
Thanks for the vid brother you saved my ass today putting the pistons back in the caliper because I was lost!
excellent video ,and great skill in putting the dust boot and piston in to the bore. Thanks!!
Great video, I was stuck at the part ref, getting the rubber boot on, but your foot pump tip is a great idea.
The "slightly rougher" - but equally effective - way to get the piston out is to stick a metal rod that fits through the hose-hole loosely, in - caliper in a vise - and give it a whack with a hammer. That works when the piston is genuinely stuck solid & no amount of air will budge it - it will hammer out easily. If you (cough) don't have a new seal to hand, you can let the old seal sit in some atf for a few minutes - ATF contains good stuff for seals, the seal will emerge newly flexible, not swollen & nice & supple. Give it a good clean with tissue & she's good to go.
Usually the groove the seal & dust boot sit into will be mangy, the piston will be mangy but the caliper itself will be pretty mint inside(grooves aside). You can give the piston a good twirl inside some sandpaper & it usually comes up clean as a whistle & clean the grooves as well - they need to be spotless.. You can then re-assemble the lot, it will still be tight as factory, it will function perfectly for years more & you don't have to go shopping.. Also, if you have rust building up in your calipers, your fluids no good - it's absorbed water. Clean fluid does not allow rust to develop, water in the fluid does - so drain ALL the fluid & start again with fresh.
One of them vacuum oil-suckers is the best brake bleeder ever invented - use a bit of rubber hose on the end of the hard sucker hose, pop it over the nipple & let it suck - no dicking about pedaliing pedals, no helper required & it will bleed the hardest to bleed system going in 5 minutes flat. Fellow Paddy btw.. enjoyed the vid.. :-)
Mate.....thank a bunch for this video. Beautifully done.
great video, i am doing my isuzu trooper calipers, and watching all the tips has been a great help. thank you
When you said that you've previously "knocked" the piston out from the back, what did you mean? Now you say you should be able to get it out with "just" the foot pump, as if you got it out some other way initially. Some key details are omitted here.
I'm doing this right now and its a pain, thanks for the tip. I was on the way quitting... the f*cking rubber wont move. Great info, many thanks man!
Thank you for very educational video.. Do you think that new parts be worth it, i mean, new caliper cost a few tenner.. At least, always may be could to clean these parts properly, before fit new parts in, what you think..?
Thanks for this. I need to do 2 calipers on my Subaru Outback and I think you have just made my life a lot easier. Lived in Dublin for a few years as well. Lovely city, great folks.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I found it very helpful. Cheers.
You are the Man! Thanks Brother not to many good detail videos out there..
Very well done video, thanks for taking the time to film it and upload it! Cheers
you dont need a valve and air pressure to pull out the piston..you have to press the brake pedal first to pressure out the piston before you remove the flexible hose
great video mate you have some great little tricks that i wouldnt have thought of simple tricks but great ones thanks
best explaned video ever many thanks for taking the time to do it
Great Video! Well done!!
I had answers for all I needed in one video! May God bless you!
Thank you very much!
thank you for the tip never would have thought to use a valve stem. i didnt know this was how to get the rubber boot back together i got to this point and was puzzled everything was already apart...lol
I gain 1 more knowledge thanks😃
Excellent video. Thank you so much for doing this.
Your videos about the brake overhaul are really helpful! Nice tricks & perfect vids, keep up the good work! Greetings from Hungary!
Thanks for the simple but useful information !!!
Amigo Buen trabajo buen vídeo el mejor que he visto sobre el caliper gracias por ponerlo en youtube Saludos.
You did a great job. Thank you for making this Video.
Super cette technique avec le gonfleur . Merci
I like the shredder valve idea
Some good ideas here, especially using air to fit the piston boot.
Thanks for the video, it's nice work, great tips for inserting de seal using the hand pump.
You have explained things well, but why go to all the trouble rebuilding the caliper when you can buy the caliper rebuilt ready to go on for only a few bucks more? I just rebuilt a caliper with pistons from both sides for a versatile tractor. Kit was over $200 and took lots of time and frustration. Used calipers for this tractor can be $1000 Rubber grease? where would you buy that? I just used brake fluid to lube piston seal etc. Thanks for posting this video.
Nice one mate,,, Good video,,
Just struggled for 2 hours trying to get an x trail seal to seat,,,,, wish I'd found your video first it would have made the job much easier..
Sir that was a fantastic valve idea and job , thank you for the informative video..
I liked this video very much. The explanation was so clear and logical.
One question.
When I have to rebuild a component from my personal vehicles, I try to restore it to original appearance., even if doing so has no effect on performance.
Knowing that the piston and seals were to be replaced, if you wanted to do a more thorough job of removing all debris and corrosion from the exterior of the caliper body, would you see a problem with leaving them in place, capping the valve stem, and carefully using a strong corrosion removal chemical like naval jelly?
This has worked for me on Honda cast iron caliper frames, but I've never tried it on a caliper body.
hi great video. how did you connect the foot pump to the caliper. can you post a link to the connector. thanks
Why did you take it off the car? Pump the brakes to pop the piston out. Waaay easier.
Thank you for creating this video. It's very detailed, giving me exactly what i need to rebuild mine.
Not fully sure you had the best approach, but the proof as they say is in the pudding, my favourite way is to remove the pads by releasing the bleed nipple, then retighten and press the foot brake firmly to the floor, making sure to place a pan to collect the fluid, out it pops and just clamp the pipe and remove the caliper.
Funny but in the past I have inserted the boot onto the Piston and then inserted them as a pair into the Bore, figuering it was easier than inserting the boot first.
Mr Spence Eng
probably going to be using this when I get around to doing mine. Thanks for the vid mate
WOW. When the video started I thought Bruce Willis will be fixing calipers :)
Thank U very much I like your creative work especially the hand air pump
اشكرك كثيرا لقد أعجبت بعملك خصوصا استعمالك للنسخة اليدوية ( Arabic )
Much thanks . I'm going to do the same. 2011 lexus is 250 front rightside caliper piston pitted
I took my caliper apart, clean it, put silicone grease on the seals, put it back together. works fine now. cost me maybe 1 cent worth of grease.
I like this video alot but just a tip for some: I found a $22 used caliper on ebay and that was with free shipping. Some salvage parts people on ebay give such cheap used parts that a rebuild becomes more costly due to labor and the rebuild kits.
Great video. Did you just clamp the tube so it wouldn't spill? Is there a way to plug the tube. I want to paint the calipers. Wondering how to stop the liquid from pouring.
Car on stands doing the same job... excellent tutorials. many thanks.😉
Excellent video and very instructional.
Great Job Mate ,,So now i know the Best way to get it Done,
Cheer's